How I installed electrics for a media wall double socket, then prepped for ethernet & TV aerial

[@Perky77]

For the network cable, what I would do is have 1 cable from the router going up into the attic, up there I would have an 8-port gigabit switch and run all the cables to that, you will need another plug socket up there, unless you get a POE (power over ethernet) switch. I would put a double socket in the attic and run power from that personally. With the switch in the attic it gives you much easier expandability and keeps your hallway wall neater as well.

[@jasonduplock3832]

This is absolutely the best option....try and locate a switch in the attic near to the hatch.. run one cable from your router up in to the attic to the switch and then run ethernet cables to wherever you want. This way the system can grow by just buying a switch with more ports. Personally I have a 16 port switch in my attic with cables going to each of the upstairs rooms....and if I need more than one ethernet port in any room, I just add a 4 port switch in that room.

[@Sammo-w2y]

Totally agree with this.

[@PaulRansonArt]

Thats what I've done and thank goodness I did. Its amazing just how much our system has grown from a simple router to a whole home ethernet without relying on wifi so much😃😃

[@TheChipmunk2008]

spare cable, cat 6 is cheap

[@JasGawera]

Yep, do this. Loft is a great place to put your network switch, since you already have a wago box with mains there anyway, fit a socket to plug your network switch into. Will be handy for getting wired ethernet to any room from the loft. Also for external CCTV cameras if you ever decide you need them. The more things you can put on wired ethernet the better.

[@roryjack9707]

In my humble opinion, add another double socket, you’ll end up needing it/future proof. Also run it in a ring not a spur. Loving the videos, wish I had half your energy. All the best.

[@TheChipmunk2008]

As a sparky, i'd suggest running a 2.5mm radial, makes the wiring easier, and none of that stuff will be high load. needs an extra breaker in the board, but we tend to run many MANY circuits.... the price difference in the size of consumer unit is surprisingly small. Another option is to spur it with a fused connection unit, then you can daisy chain using 1.5mm

[@ambo666]

Sorry I may have missed it. But this is a perfect opportunity to build a media wall. And have another video for us all.

[@iamkatedelaney]

Your videos are so good - I love how you talk through your thinking process - it really helps understand decision making. I'm just about to move into my new home and I'm definitely gonna rewatch your videos and see what I can do myself - starting with attic insulation:o) Thank you!

[@ianbird4737]

Another thought. If it hasn't already been done (and I suspect probably not) the phone connection will be changed over to optical fibre from the existing copper wire at some point in the near future. You have an opportunity to relocate where the phone cable comes into the building to somewhere more convenient than the middle of the corridor. This will obviously affect your plans for where to run data cables. The new fibre connection will need to be next to a socket as the incoming data box needs to be powered. Maybe another socket needed?

[@GlennBroadway]

I love the way you keep saying SCART leads. We haven’t used them for about 20 years!

[@TheCarpentersDaughterUK]

Haha.... I haven't wired up a tv for over 12 years now 😅 Mr TCD is all over them before me lol

[@TheChipmunk2008]

@@TheCarpentersDaughterUK scart/hdmi, same thing, smaller plugs :)

[@paulyh4531]

Was gonna say the same , your lucky to get some phono inputs on today's TVs. Hdmi is the new normal. 😆

[@paulyh4531]

@@TheChipmunk2008 Not really a scart plug was analogue , hdmi is all digital and supports much more resolution. Know what you mean thou.

[@TheChipmunk2008]

@@paulyh4531 well yes

[@gingerelvis]

Looks like a great use of space, glad that you aren't going to mount the tv high up! It always seems daft to me to crane your neck to watch the telly. I would stick with plasterboard adhesive for dot and dab personally, as a diyer it's a bit more forgiving if you need to straighten out a wall as long as its not too hot. When it comes to back boxes if you're chasing out already you might as well go 35mm it allows your tails to be a bit longer making it easier to wire your sockets etc and you can basically stick any face plate on them without worrying about not having enough space. I'd also recommend cutting t&e with snips / side cutters it's so much easier! The built in cutters on the stripper are helpful when you're in the loft and forget your snips but they really aren't great.

[@tonygoodin5099]

Vikkie, Power points are always in short supply. You'll have a TV, soundbar plus other things such as Apple TV, Amazon fire stick, games console etc to plug in. Just make sure you've got enough.

[@ermfwp]

Absolutely. When doing the pub shed we originally thought 3 double sockets would be fine. Ended up going with 6!

[@barryford7135]

I would batten that wall & run the cables in the void, put your sockets in the middle where the tv is going as you might change the tv in the future.

[@ColinDH12345]

Love your videos but never comment. On this one, I can add. I would do the following: 1. Add 2 double sockets, even 3; you can never have enough 2. Break the mains 'ring' and take it down to the TV area, rather than a spur (protects cable rating if you add other sockets) 3. Add a Sattilite socket, even if you don't use one now 4. Internal CAT6 would have been fine 5. Add a 'Switch. near your access point in the attic and connect things to there. Allows full flexibility 6. Add a socket to that switch area for power 7. I have used 47mm back boxes all over the house. Soooo much easier. 8. Check your phone location as you may want to pull a central radio phone to the TV location, even if you use radio phones around the house I see all these things as adding value to the house and many people look for such extendability when purchasing these days. Again, love your work... you're doing great!

[@TheCarpentersDaughterUK]

Thanks so much for taking the time to comment with lots of useful tips 😀 we've now added another double socket.

[@shanecantwell227]

Hi Vikki, don’t put a switch in the loft. Have a think about how many Ethernet ports you need 4 is probably enough TV, Games Console and maybe a couple of wireless access points. Patch panels and cabinets for a bungalow is total overkill unless you are planning to build an office in which case put it in there. Think about an access point outside as it would give better coverage in the garden. Satellite TV is fast disappearing as even sky use broadband more and more these days. Bet you don’t use the old coax aerial pretty much everything is streamed these days. Simple works 😉

[@ianbird4737]

Regarding back boxes ... I always use 35mm boxes for sockets. I find everything is a bit tight when using a 25mm box. Better to give yourself a bit more wiggle room to tuck the cable in. For neatness, use cup washers on the screws used to fix the boxes to the wall. This means that the rim of the screw head isn't exposed. As others have noted, you should extend the ring to your new socket not have it as a spur. Run that extra cable now! And, lastly, don't forget that you will need a separate length of earth wire to link the earth point on the back box to the earth point on the socket.

[@markrainford1219]

Definitely 35mm, especially with the fashion for flat plates. As for cup washers, just use PZ Roundheads.

[@JasGawera]

@@markrainford1219 Also deeper boxes help with some brands of USB sockets, which can be useful behind a TV for some gadgets that can be powered that way, and therefore save on a mains socket

[@BizGuzlur]

Hi Vikkie, if you are using solid-core network cable you should install a socket at both ends. Don't be tempted to use a solid-core cable as a flying lead to your router as it's difficult to get it to sit 'straight' and perhaps more importantly it will fracture if 'flexed' too many times. To connect your router and TV to the sockets you should use a multi-core 'patch' lead which is a lot more flexible, will sit straight and won't fracture. Also, it is really important to wire the colours exactly as indicated on the back of the sockets. The wires are twisted in four pairs internally and if you crosswire them, even if you crosswire identically at both ends, you end up with appalling interference and very slow network speeds - ask me how I know this ;-)

[@chippy3350]

Keep to dot and dab foam is a pain, it will expand and the board will move with it. What you have works best.

[@ambo666]

You could use a cantilever TV bracket which will allow to get to the back if needed. And you could move the TV out for any ocassion you may need to move the angle for more viewers. Though I'm not sure about 75" TV and its weight.

[@keithspriggs4614]

My advice is to get a small network switch and put it into the attic. This way you can have multiple connections going to the ISP supplied router. If you want to set up a home office later, it would be much easier. Amazon Ethernet switch

[@davidclarke2513]

If you sit your 25 mm backbones to the existing wall then add the plasterboard so the back of the plasterboard sits at the front of your backbones that will give you the additional 10mm but you must remember that if you do that you will require longer 3.5mm socket fixing screws so they reach the taped fixings

[@bruces3575]

I wouldn't split any signal line, (coax or cat 5 wire) if I didn't have to. The more connections the more chance there is for loss of signal. I would extend the electrics to the lower area in case you want to use ancillary equipment. Under my TV, I have a media cabinet that houses my surround sound equipment, antenna analog to digital channel changer and DVD players. You may not think you will need any of that but by adding it now you will future proof power requirements for what may come along. The other thing is if you need more cables running from below the TV, a tube sited behind the wall face would hide them.

[@CiaranNewsome]

Stich drill for the electrical back box, less dust than a grinder on breeze block.

[@sheepbaba]

Did u say SCART???? YFW??? I've got a collection of SCART'Y shenanigans. Was a die hard CRT fan. Only parted with our dear proper telly 2 years ago loaded into a Tesla - like back to the future. OLED was good enough to tempt me. Can't beat CRT for motion picture. Go figure... The whole point is for motion picture, not static photo.... Boing! Sorry 4 deep tangent. Had to get it off my chesticles and share love for real telly-visual. Now I watch your wejio... x

[@DarrenPoulson]

Definitely, wherever possible, put the deeper back boxes in. Gives you much more room to work with and future proofs your house. If you ever go with any home automation sockets or anything like that (power monitoring, remote control, etc.), they usually require a deeper backbox and its not easy to retrofit one in a nicely decorated room. :)

[@greghilton7797]

Vikkie, That big white square looking plug thing by your router is a thing that sends the internet through the power cables and you need another one at the place where you want to extract the internet from the power cables in the house. They come from the days when WiFi wasn't very good at transmitting over a distance. Unlike the router you have now that transmits so well you can get your WiFi as far away as next door.

[@johnavery15]

When I pull a cable out (like your aerial one) I pull a string or wire in the cavity at the same time the cable comes out because you never know when you need to reuse a socket!

[@TheCarpentersDaughterUK]

We regret not doing this!!

[@johnavery15]

Hindsight is a wonderful thing!

[@davidclarke2513]

Take it from an electrician of 50 years experience in the game you need a 35mm backbox so that it fits with no squeezing of the cables with the added depth of the Internet unit which goes a lot deeper

[@shutinyanks]

re the ethernet cables i'd go into the loft and install a patch panel with switch or 10 port switch on its own into a cabinet. That way you can take the master ethernet from the router and share it into the switch and feed any other parts of the house from there. It's always handy to have Ethernet sockets in rooms that guests could use or if you intend to mount another tv/convert to office even install a wifi extender or POE cameras *you would need a switch with a POE port They are fairly cheap and as you've already shown the work isn't that hard to do

[@martyn334]

If you are sorting all the cable now, you might as well stick the router in a better location too, and have ethernets running from that to other places around the house, it'll look so much better in the long run. Especially with fttp becoming more widely available. Unsure what lighting your thinking of getting but the JCC Fireguard GU10, £4.50 (at the time) are perfect, and we used some £4 odd Bulbs, and they look good, dimmable too, cheaper than buying a whole unit, the ones we orignally looked at were £11 each and all intergrated, so if it failed, thats another £11 and effort into taking it down/replacing, at least with the GU10 when the bulbs blow, you only need to replace the bulb, not the whole unit which is handy.

[@andrewmiles611]

Take the dot and dab stuff back and get some tile batten to screw to the wall, can double up (side by side) for solid packing for the tv bracket screws then just screw the plasterboard to the battens. No mess and don’t need to wait for stuff to dry.

[@speakertreatz]

fantastic, thanks very much for uploading

[@kimstockwell721]

Wow Vikkie, got to admire your can do attitude. I will have a go at most things but electrics, nope, got a sparky mate for that. Good job, soon have your t.v up.

[@jonathanstokes7791]

I agree with what others have said about putting a comms cabinet/patch plate/switch in the loft. It’s worth considering. You will also want to run HDMI cables from the TV to wherever you choose to locate your Blue-ray/DVD/sky box or whatever else you may need in the future. It’s also worth running an extra spare length of CAT6a ethernet cable alongside the HDMIs, it can be used to run video in the future. It’s a good redundancy measure.

[@pman2916]

Had no clue what you were talking about or what any of it meant but I love watching your video's so I stuck around lol came to the comment section for relief and simplified knowledge but got none here either 😂

[@gmo4250]

Rather than running Ethernet cabling, you may also consider having a look at a wireless mesh network. Something like Eero will have a couple of built in Ethernet ports and you can add a switch if you need more connections. But, ultimately just go what you are happy with. 8:03 Double entendre overload 😂

[@philsbbs]

i agree add power to loft and put a switch up in the loft to make it easier to add cabling to rest of the mansion.

[@Ant98986]

You need a switch, you could even put a cheap comms cabinet in the loft for distributing the ethernet. This way you can have distributed wifi on the whole property including outdoor spaces if done properly using POE. I'd be happy to advise as I used to do it for a living and getting the wrong set-up now could make it a pain in the future.

[@elminster8149]

Just a note on your networking. You will need one cable per port, they can't be daisy chained.

[@25zerotwo]

Would defo run a power cable down, through two double boxes then back up again, rather than a spur, better way to manage the use. Also single box should do you for a TV aerial & RJ45 socket, with another 2 beside. Worth knowing as well that two Cat6 cables can be joined to replace an HDMI cable. I'd be very tempted to think about what else you might want to run to that TV and where you may want other devices plugging in, like a small media cupboard on the floor and run a cable down there. Oh and like everyone else has said, defo join all your networking together in the loft. 😉

[@martinsolentwebdesign4617]

Hey Vicky I put the router in the attic the telephone cable that feeds it could be up in the attic too - then you can run ethernet cables to where you want including a wireless access point or 2 around the house for your wifi - you may also be able to put your router into something called modem mode and get a better spec router with more ethernet ports

[@jagracershoestring609]

Hello again, I have a 65 inch screen on the wall, weighs 210 pounds. I suggest you move your big TV to the wall to the opposite side of the room. You will feal cramped in the corner, and sound will be crap. I have a life long interest in HI FI, so get a proper sound map of the room before getting too carried away. Do not put in socket boxes too early either, put them in after plastering out, just put the wires in place, your plasterer will thank you. I suggest vertical battening the wall, then fit the plasterboard, put rigid PIR insulation behind in the gaps, it will stop resonance on your sound. As others have said, put a new ring main in for power, and a comms. ring for the future. I have done up a lot of houses, built the odd one, and making it simple makes a better job. Glad you still have plenty of energy to do this, it runs out as one gets older.

[@JL-rx6hl]

i know its a bit late now but i always use a 2 & 1 back box so that means there is not a gap between the sockets. looks much neater IMO and you dont b=need to faff about trying to get two seperate boxes at the same level PS just sink 25mm boxes deeper into the wall by 10mm if you havent got 35mm boxes

[@haldo691]

Run 1 cable from your router to a (unmanaged switch) then run cables from the switch to each point you want a connection its all just plug and play so easy to set up. Switches come in diffrent sizes so work out how many ethernet points you want and get a switch with enough capacity plus a few extra for future use

[@bryansmith3353]

That is right for tvs on walls shod really be at eye level when u are sat down if possible

[@daveturnbull7221]

Now I have full fibre I plan to run 3 cables from my router at some point in the near future which will give me a cabled connection in each bedroom and one on the opposite side of the living room to the router for maximum flexibility. Given that every junction will reduce the speed (although marginal with good connections) I'd prefer a straight single run from end to end. However something to bear in mind is if you are possibly going to move the router at some point in the future then the two cable option will give you more options.

[@normanboyes4983]

Vikki you are going great guns but you should have maintained the ring rather than creating a spur (by running two cables between loft and socket), two double sockets as a minimum and three behind the TV is not overkill. Network is better handled by a managed switch (at least a six port), positioned in the loft with drops to TV area, kitchen and office. Personally I would have battened the wall, tailored to provide good fixings for the TV socket - but you are doing great.😀👍

[@hatthewmartley]

Very nicely done. This is very inspiring. We are about to renovate our living room and I wanted to do something like this in a little alcove we have.

[@awt]

I suggest (as others have also) that you extend the ring rather than spurring the socket: you can only put one thing on a spur (without an FCU), you can't extend further. The effort to extend the ring is marginal, you may as well do it now :)

[@haldo691]

The advantage of using foam to attach plasterboard is you can do it in smaller runs if you want to put 1 board up fine .if you use dot and dab you need to mix the whole bag and use it all before it sets.

[@markrainford1219]

Don't think there is any law that says you have to mix the whole bag? I could be wrong of course, has happened before.

[@stuartdavis8327]

Hi....couple of things...where you pulled the aerial out you can make that into a single socket next to the double... I've done this before...also you could just have put one double box for the ethernet and aerial and used a euro module for the aerial although aerial is becoming redundant anyway and Freeview is going on the internet already with a new service called freely...put the router in the most convenient place centrally to your ports where it can be hidden and move the BT master socket to the router either by re routing the BT cable or extending it also with Cat6

[@AndrewLumsden]

I recently switched from Sky Q to Sky streaming puck. Considerably cheaper subscription, no dish outside You'll find it difficult to find a TV with a SCART socket on the back these days!🤣 Just put one or two ethernet ports on the wall behind the router, then put an ethernet switch in the loft, you can then feed cables to other rooms in the house.

[@sward86]

You should put a sheet of ply behind the plasterboard for fixing the TV

[@rinakaur7245]

My mum watched ur vid, she said "clever girl" lol

[@TheCarpentersDaughterUK]

😂😂😂 tell your Mum thanks 😊

[@wjnr1]

You can run from the router to a switch (one cable BUT put a spare in) so you have as many Ethernet sockets as you want in the bungalow. Think about access points for WiFi mounted to the ceiling or wall too where the signal is poor. Also do you need to run a point to the kitchen & bedroom for HDMi cables to watch the sky box dvd etc in other rooms ? Perhaps 4 double sockets behind the tv ? Sound bar, tv, surround sound, fire stick, dvd player, sky box will use 6 sockets

[@sward86]

That box to the master telephone socket it just a ringer. You can remove it if you dont have a landline

[@zaftra]

TV should be on the other white wall, some good surround speakers. L shaped sette to eith sit toward the fire or toward the TV.

[@iamkatedelaney]

Thanks

[@TheCarpentersDaughterUK]

Thanks so much ❤️ ❤️

[@simonhinson9367]

Another great informative great to watch video 👍🏻👍🏻 you definitely do make it look so easy a hard skill to master on its own. Making the difficult jobs look easy.

[@philbrandon0532]

May want to invest in a dust shroud for the grinder, catch all the dust on a vacuum, and you can cut it up to a depth of 32mm. Normally, it's used to rake out mortar, but with a blade change, it can also do light brickwork. Saves you a lot of mess and extra work chipping away 🤔

[@paul-fk7de]

Well done vikkie another great video 👏👏👏

[@TheCarpentersDaughterUK]

Thanks so much 😀

[@Lee2k4]

At some point consider investing in a mesh WiFi system also if you haven’t already. Game changer for WiFi signal

[@TheCarpentersDaughterUK]

I'll look into it. This is all new to me 😅

[@AberdeenshireBeasties]

@@TheCarpentersDaughterUK mesh is certainly the way to go re wifi, personally I use ubiquitihardware now for that since they do both internal and external mesh nodes, however with them you do need to have a ubiquity controller or run their softwate on something which may be a tad too far for your needs

[@AberdeenshireBeasties]

BTW ideally you want all your mesh nodes to be cabled, works better in general. You then place nodes where you need them to provide wifi coverage and they all act as if they were one wifi network

[@scottperry8388]

Hello Vicky, residential wiring is split in 2 categories, High and Low voltage. Low voltage is Ethernet, Phone, Arial cables, door bell, fire alarm wire, basically anything that's not Mains power. They can all be grouped together into one box, they do not need to be separated. In fact they don't even need a box, just something to attach a face plate to. For the termination of the long ethernet wires, put another box next to the router just like the one you put in the brick and run the cables into it. What you'll end up with is a box on each end with female plugs in them which will give you the flexibility of plugging and unplugging any cables from those boxes to their appropriate devices. I hope that makes sense. If you really want to get adventurous, get a 12 port ethernet switch and plug that into you router, that way you could start a network and run ethernet into every room from the switch. As for the dot and dab, not the best idea for you're media center wall. The plaster board over the dot and dab will warp fairly quickly from the weight and heat of the tv and fireplace mixed with any moister in the room. You should frame out the walls with 2x2 or even 2x4 adding the appropriate noggins (blocking) in the walls to support the TV and other devices and drill that into the brick also you could add sound proofing. This would have also given you a place to mount the boxes instead of carving them into the brick. Anyway those are my thoughts hope it helps. You doing great. 😁

[@protectiongeek]

Eh, I think your voltage categories might need a rethink and you MUST segregate data wiring such as Ethernet from power wiring unless the data wiring insulation is rated for at least the same voltage as the power wiring.

[@scottperry8388]

​@@protectiongeek I'm sorry Craig but residential only has 2 categories, High (Mains) and Low voltage, unless you've specifically installed 3 phase for some reason. I did say any wiring that is not Mains power can be grouped together. Ethernet does not need to be separated from other low voltage wiring, it may be best practice in new construction to do so but, when you're renovating, you may not want to drill a million holes in you walls and ceiling. You can run them all in the same channel if you want. Otherwise you'd have to run each network cable in it's own channel. Office networks will run 20 Cat5 and 6 cables zip-tied together? Also Vikkie said the cable was outdoor rated so it may not be ground shielded, but it does have an extra thick casing that will add additional shielding. I've been running low voltage wiring since networks uses RS232 ports.

[@markrainford1219]

@@scottperry8388 The classes are low voltage and extra low voltage. Not high and low voltage. Your misuse of terminology is confusing. Ethernet Does require separation from low voltage.

[@scottperry8388]

@@markrainford1219 Wow I'm really regretting posting this. If there's a nit to be picked you guys will find it. Mark, Vikkie is not an electrician nor is she a low voltage technicians and she does she live in the US. In the UK they call their 240 volt residential power "Mains power" or just "Mains" which she did say in the video. Why would I use industry standard terms to try to explain to someone who is not in that industry how to fix something. She also does not work on commercial power so she doesn't deal with actual high voltage 115 kV to 230 kV power lines. Are you saying the aerial line she ran in a separate channel from the ethernet cable is low voltage and not extra low voltage? Are you even old enough to know what an aerial wire is? it's for the antenna on the roof. It virtually has no voltage. At max it 13v DC which is not going to interfere with ethernet transmission. I was just trying to explain to her that she didn't have to separate them in terms she understood, not spark a debate over terminology in the electrical field.

[@protectiongeek]

@@scottperry8388 have a wee read at the **actual** voltage categories in the Definitions section of BS7671 (aka 18th Edition of the Wiring Regulations) and get back to me.

[@Bigroomboy]

Definitely put a network switch in the loft

[@markhutton6824]

SCART leads... flash back to the 90s also why are running ethernet cable? The two ethernet cable are CAT7 which will be out of date soon but they run from the full fibre input to the TV and the PS5. Hardwiring ethernet cables is just building in redundant cables and issues.

[@MUHAMMADYAWARIFRAHEEM]

Nice work 👍

[@totherarf]

PVC tape! Simple and easily done , but it could save you a lot i n the future! Snap a small piece of electric PVC tape and cover those screws holding the boxes in! That way any cats whiskers and sharp screw edges are covered and your soft pvc cable will not cause problems in the future! Pressure faults happen when you have a cable being pushed against a bit of earthed metal and can take years to appear. It is nowhere in the regs but we used to do it as standard. There is a new type of T+E cable available now that comes with insulated earth ..... so no earth sleeving (or Sparks Chuddy (chewing gum) needed)! I would not have cut your ariel down at all, but left the excess coiled in the loft! Again not a biggie but if you need it you need it and it is out of the way in the loft and causing no problems! It is hard to future proof coms cable setup but at the moment it is a Bluetooth world so solid copper is not needed. That said you have 4 outputs from your router so why not use them while it is easily done? At the least you will allow a connection to most of your house and connect satellite routers in to that (boosters) so you get good coverage all over and even outside! It is good practice not to run data cables close to mains cables and if they cross do so at 90 degrees to minimise interference. Your "Conduit" is not conduit but capping. Conduit is round and great for changing wires over in the future but as PVC seems good for 100+ years this might not be an issue! I am being finniky here but I would also have cut the edge of the block to allow smooth entry into the backbox but it is done now and I would not expect any problems!

[@TheChipmunk2008]

foam, the future sparky will thank you

[@norwegiangadgetman]

You want the network equipment hidden. The loft is a possibility... As you're a serious YT content creator, I'd suggest adding a GOOD UPS (APC makes good ones. My BlueWalker UPS is also good, but a bit more noisy), and a NAS(Network Attached Storage, basically a box with one or more HDDs) My Synology can currently hold 8TB of data, but will hit 12TB soon, and 24TB next year. Remember, 321 for backup. (Anything you want to keep should be stored 3 places, on at least 2 physical media, where one is at a different physical location) I would NOT place power and other outlets to match the TV. Odds are that if/when the TV breaks or is otherwise replaced, the new one will have the cables in different places. Place the boxes close to the center of the TV, and use cable ties to tidy the cables.

[@DaveVespa]

Can you plaster straight on the breeze blocks instead of putting plasterboard in? It may not be an issue in your house but I want to keep as much space in my tiny flat as possible.

[@rinakaur7245]

U made that look easy.

[@fishingforbiteswithmo]

Looks fantastic 👍

[@andreacrashe9894]

*Vikkie, Always add in more power-points. Cos you have to 'futureproof' it for the generations to come, with all their future technology.... cos we have no idea what contraptions they will be using 🙂nz*

[@handyjim]

great job there young lady have a joint in the loft incase of repairs in the future

[@rwhite3085]

Why did you locate fitting locations specifically for your Phillips tv ? What happens when you change your tv in the future ? Love your videos

[@sward86]

Take of your master telephone socket and check if theres existing conduit going up to the attic

[@stephenhoinhk]

While you are putting Ethernet cable, I would always put two. Just in case one failed.

[@johnavery15]

Good point. I ran two cables to every outlet.

[@ChagoiSteve]

Totally agree, good rule to run 2 ethernet cat6 to each location you need a port for redundancy. And don't forget we are all going to Voip phones, while DECT voip is OK poe always eternet better. In the attic you would have many more ports than your switch, so a small patch panel would be required. Good luck well done with the progress you have made.

[@brokenbritain9441]

🤔 i would put more electrical points in add points with USB ports for that means deeper boxes. Most modern electrics run off Bluetooth like a sound bar. And then you think about colour changing LED lights behind the TV which does help to watch TV.

[@Limosical]

Some tvs have extremely low speed ethernet ports. I have an LG smart tv thats around 3 years old, if I plug it into wired, I get 10mbps max because that's all the port on the TV supports, can't watch KZbin at 4K but when on wireless I get much higher speeds and can easily watch 4K. Of course, it's still good to have the cable there for the future, but once the TV is installed, if you have lots of buffering with the cable plugged in it might be worth unplugging just to check. There are some posts about slow LAN on philips TVs too but I don't know what your specific model is.

[@Christopher_T_Paul]

Be very mindful of using SBR near a finished surface. Painting directly over SBR will cause problems, so if you spill any, make sure to clean it up well.

[@cdogvlog5557]

The television that I have got doesn't even have an ethernet port, it has to run off the wireless. Luckily this isn't an issue because the router is in the same room as the tv. I wonder can you use your tv to keep the dog occupied (babysit the dog) if you gonna be gone for like 8 hours.

[@juliequinlan6564]

Well done!👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏💕

[@markdyballuk]

your electric cable wiring didn't look right to me. is the socket circuit radial? somehow it didn't look right to me but I always use a ring circuit... just thought it might be worth pointing out Vikkie

[@evans1978]

SCART lead! We're not in the 90s Vikkie!!

[@envoycdx]

1 cable for Ethernet, point to point. then a patch lead to the router and a patch lead to the device you're plugging in on the other end in my opinion.

[@stevenbennett3922]

You should definitely run Cat 6 where you have the opportunity.

[@mattparker7068]

in future try using a marxman spray as it helps you mark where your back box is going!

[@TheCarpentersDaughterUK]

Thanks. It's that the same as the one I used for the last back box?

[@mattparker7068]

@@TheCarpentersDaughterUK yes they are very good

[@normanboyes4983]

@@TheCarpentersDaughterUK😂

[@fredjames9867]

Why did you not batten the wall where l where the TV was going. Then just run cables just behind the board

[@TheCarpentersDaughterUK]

Deep down battens are my preferred method. I've done it in the past during my 1st ever kitchen tiling video. But I wanted to try dot and dab to see what I thought about it.

[@davideyres955]

So many people recommending switch in the loft. ITS A BAD IDEA. Lofts get hot. I’ve measured over 40 deg c in my loft and most switches maximum operating temperature is 40. It is also dusty. I would strongly advise not putting a patch panel and switch in the loft. Find your self somewhere to hide the panel and the run the cable through the loft as that’s going to be the easiest way to get between rooms. I’ve see comms kit go intermittently weird after being cooked. Even if you use a passively cooled switch it will still suck air in and get clogged up with dust. It’s a fire hazard. Don’t do it. Remember you can run up to 90 meters of cat 6 between patch panel and socket and then have 10 meters of patch cable in total. Patch panel to socket is the best way to go. Having a plug on the end is not to spec, solid core does not like repeated bending and will fail. Running it 24x7 if you don’t actually need it is going to cost you about £20 per year. Not much but if you get your power consumption down across the board you’ll be surprised how much you shave off your bills. Don’t know why people are getting up in arms because of creating a spur from a ring. Provided you don’t pull more than the rated current with that spur then it’s fine. A single socket is fine. Personally I’d be adding a fused spur so we can ensure overcurrent won’t affect the cable. A tv usually takes about 400watts max so under 2 amps down a cable that can carry 24 amps. Sure extending the ring is better but you then you’ve effectively invalidated any certificates you have for that circuit.

[@shaun30-3-mg9zs]

Hi Vikkie, Wago boxes are a lot quicker and easy to install and your metal back boxes are the right ones being 25mm for a double socket did you put a single earth wire to earth the back box there is a fixing screw to fit an earth wire to the earth terminal on your socket. It's no fun doing electrics in the loft tight on room and dust, I rewired my house back in 1997. You are doing a good job on your socket installation. Great video take care

[@jablot5054]

You don't need to do that now.

[@garyeales1116]

If your circuit is on a ring main you should have run two 2.5mm cable from the socket up to complete the loop. By only running one cable you are creating a spur.

[@markdyballuk]

didn't look right to me... perhaps the original cable was radial circuit (or even a spur!) and if so wasn't the right way to wire it either... strange.

[@Ant98986]

Would have been the best solution however looking at it, it would just create a spur or extend a radial. Nothing wrong with that. However judging by the grey cable and the age of the house it may have been an existing spur Edit.. you can see it's a ring as the other leg is visible so it's just a sput

[@markdyballuk]

@@Ant98986 Personally i wouldn't run a spur in this situation it's not very much hassle (or cost), just continue the ring

[@Ant98986]

@@markdyballuk nope but low amps with a TV and not wrong just not the right "right" choice

[@DavidRCCar]

Hi Vikkie i am no network, can i giver you some advice on your network. Can you run one network line from the router to the loft and get a network switch put the switch in the loft. You can you network lines from the loft down to the rooms you like a network points.

[@chrismaplethorpe6781]

Working in lofts with all the fibre glass is one of many reasons I won't do domestic electrical work.

[@Quickblood1]

I'll have a simialr problem in our house soon and I think for an easy life I'm just gonna invest in decent mesh wi-fi rather than placing ethernet all over the houe, that'll probably just be reserved for the home office.

[@wisher21uk]

Brilliant job done well, thanks Vikkie and Mr TCD 😊

[@jamescharlton924]

Are you relying just on the router? You would be best off adding a mesh network and then you can have more range coverage

[@davidclarke2513]

You need 35mm deep boxes for Internet sockets

[@b21playa]

Great. Where did you get the sbr for £10?

[@TheCarpentersDaughterUK]

Amazon 😀 I've left an amazona affiliate link in the description :)

[@leem4017]

Could you tell me what the conduit is called you used to cover your cables, and the nails? I need to cover my Fibre cable in the garage, it is on block work also.

[@TheCarpentersDaughterUK]

Hi, it's called a PVC channel and capping nails or mickey pins (you can find amazon affiliate links in description if helps)

[@thefowlersadventures6805]

It’s capping not conduit, hence the use of capping nails 👍🏼 conduit is round or oval tube for cables to go in

[@forthefans8240]

@@TheCarpentersDaughterUK Thank you so much :)

[@forthefans8240]

@@TheCarpentersDaughterUK Sorry, its me again. I can't see the Amazon link for the cable capping!

[@TheDwight1379]

Have you seen the media panels they now do?

[@SalC007]

Wouldn't go with Scart cables as it's an outdated method of connecting TV's to Sky Box, Blu Ray players, Sound Bars and games consoles. I would run 3 or 4 HDMI cables the same method you've connected the other cables.

[@AsadAli-lz1mm]

Just chase a couple of cat6 cables from the main router up to your ceiling in a central location (onto a patch panel) where all your cat6 cables can terminate and share the Internet (including your TV). Your CCTV cables can also terminate there. If you want to improve WiFi coverage think about installing ceiling mounted access points points. Just buy a box of 305m of solid CAT6 (not CCA, they're poor quality) to start off with. If the 305m cable is less than £100, avoid!!!! When running the cables, leave some slack. Make sure you chase these cables before plastering. After walls are plastered you'll need to do the final terminations. Look at KZbin, very easy to finish off As you do all the rooms, its best you run at least 2 ports per room back to the loft to future proof. You'll thank yourself later😊

[@vince_martyn]

Great update, thank you. I didn't spot the meaning of Copper Clad Aluminium! I am not buying that! Vince.

[@johnavery15]

I installed 6 sockets + ethernet + satellite cables behind each TV. You can't have too many sockets!

[@johnavery15]

You'd be better off having a 'switch' in the loft. The switch would have one cable in from the router and then have multiple outlets (12, 24, 48). You can then install ethernet outlets all over the house. The router will soon become full with cables otherwise. I bought a second switch off eBay for around £20.