How menswear design works - with Luke Walker of LEJ

How do traditional menswear companies and fashion ones compare? What value does design have at both?
Luke Walker has designed for the likes of Dunhill and Drake's, but also Lanvin and McQueen. Hear him talk about the beautiful clothing that can emerge from fashion (at some brands, in some periods) and how fans of more classic menswear might appreciate it.
The Games Blazer at Drake's, handcut velvet at Lanvin, bonkers design at Lanvin - the talk covers it all.
From the series of interviews with just interesting menswear people, by Simon Crompton of Permanent Style. More on PermanentStyle.com
Luke Walker now runs his own wonderful brand LEJ - www.lej.london

[@josephprice6617]

Enjoyed the casual nature of this conversation. Good questions and you let Luke run with his answers.

[@PermanentStyleLondon]

Thanks Joseph. I am slowly getting better at that!

[@captainash1297]

As someone who is putting in the work to start a Menswear brand, love hearing these conversations. Gives some outside perspective for someone who is very sartorially isolated in the mid-west US. Any advice for trying to find/source manufacturers?

[@tonydeltablues]

Was looking forward to another Permanent Style video 🙂

[@PermanentStyleLondon]

Nice

[@works4me856]

Awesome talk!

[@PermanentStyleLondon]

Thanks

[@TopStrikerMaverick]

He’s alive guys

[@j.c.o6333]

He’s explained that he is often too busy with the website, meetups and other things and this impacts the amount of KZbin videos he can put out. His website and social media is much more active although I do prefer his KZbin videos, both instructional and conversational.

[@PermanentStyleLondon]

Thanks. Yes the website has three articles every week. This KZbin channel is just where some of the videos are hosted. @@j.c.o6333

[@tonydeltablues]

...16:36 Luke makes a good point with his 'chicken and egg' question: I think it's really difficult to unpack how we are influenced in terms of our aesthetic. I wonder how long it will be (it may be already happening) before wider lapels and a fuller drape hits the cat walk.....

[@PermanentStyleLondon]

I think it's been happening for a while, yes.

[@phillipwong3754]

Can't help to say Sky is missing from his name 😅

[@gentlewolf]

Let's talk menswear. Exposing your chest down to your belly is not cool.

[@PermanentStyleLondon]

That's a little narrow minded, if only for the fact that it certainly has been cool at points historically. And if you think the buttons are there for a reason, the logical conclusion would be to do them all up all the time?

[@gentlewolf]

@@PermanentStyleLondon That's like saying, every button on a 3-piece suit must be buttoned. Nobody thinks the top button of a dress shirt must be buttoned, but if you wear one and expose your chest hairs down to your frieken navel...aside for the fact that, frankly, nobody sane is interested, you are also not cool or hip or stylish. Just a wannabe loser desperate for attention that will expose anything for to get it. Why not wear a tux without a shirt once your at it?

[@gentlewolf]

​@@PermanentStyleLondon that's like saying a 3-button suit must be fully buttoned. Nobody says the top shirt button must be buttoned, but if you wear one and expose your body hair down to your frieken belly, aside for nobody sane being interested, you are not cool or hip or stylish. Just a wannabe desperate for attention that will do anything crass to achieve it.

[@mahmoudghoneim8004]

Hate to see someone opening half the buttons on his shirt , looks awful.