How NOT to repair RGBW SMD LED PARcans (probably)

[@Keeping_IT_Simple]

As always from you an enjoyable video .. Add me to the list of yes votes for an update video please!

[@DoetErNietToe]

just remove the heatsink? i always do that to the lights i repair i f i need to replace the led

[@toddbryant3487]

😍 'Promo sm'

[@MrRoss295]

there is no solution ... I did the exact same job today and yesterday and the day before yesterday ... I tried everything .. I detached the heatsink behind the card and gave a lot of hot air from there, the problem is that as soon as you place the new LED on the already hot surface, the solder solidifies, not allowing you to fix it exactly 100% and if you heat up too much, you'll do damage... 🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬

[@steviecandtheplace2b]

I do have a part 2 (once the client books in another couple pars that have failed)…. The best method seems to be: clip out the fault led chip, use a high-power iron to remove the old led tails, apply HSC and new led chip, then solder one pin whip holding the chip still and pushing down to displace air gaps. In theory.

[@webster_games]

Cheers dude! Great video and good info!

[@richardwillerton7993]

Hi Steve, Im looking for RGBWA 10W LEDS 12pin chip for a repair, but I can only find the chip in a 15W. Will the 15W LED be compatible or must it be 10W? Cheers Richard

[@steviecandtheplace2b]

Yes, a 15w will be backwards compatible with a 10w, but check the pin-out with a multimeter before soldering.

[@richardwillerton7993]

@@steviecandtheplace2b Thanks Steve Never Soldering anything before but all my green LEDs not working and can not find anyone who repairs dmx lights so I am going to buy an 80w iron and follow your video. Fingers crossed 🙂

[@steviecandtheplace2b]

@@richardwillerton7993 I have an update video in edit literally right now.

[@majorredbeard]

Thanks for the repair video, this is excellent! I've got a few lights of my own and haven't had to worry about repairs yet, but I'm sure I'll have to. The other thing that I've been wondering about is whether it's possible to DIY a fixture like this, or more specifically, with a nice big heatsink and a RGBWA+UV 200W Chip, breathe new life into an older leko by gutting it and using the housing to hold a DMX controller board and heat sink to cool the SMD Hex LED.

[@steviecandtheplace2b]

@@majorredbeard there’s plenty of “kits” to be found on aliexpress; not an actual kit but every component (chassis, psu, led board, driver) can be bought individually. Plenty 200W heat sinks too. Actually had plans to mod a halogen disco scanner to use led but life got in the way as usual.

[@majorredbeard]

@@steviecandtheplace2b Well that's cool - I've never seen that - can you give one as an example? My searches haven't really proven anything that looks like a kit. Are they PAR fixtures?

[@steviecandtheplace2b]

@@majorredbeard yes they’re all PARcan components; but it’s just occurred to me that the led arrays are 3 parallel sets of 6 rgbwauv/rgbw LEDs in series. So maybe you could also drive a higher wattage “point source” chip from it? Maybe bodge with power resistors? Needs more research. Will report back with AilExpress searches in due course.

[@steviecandtheplace2b]

@@majorredbeard I’ve uploaded a “redux” video about these repairs. Showing how you don’t need a high power iron etc. You’re basically learning alongside me 🙄😂

[@kaggez]

i really enjoyed watching this video :)

[@CyberlightFG]

One mine, the current regulator failed and killed all Leds with a lot of current. Taking it off us always destructive. A very big tip on the iron will work. I changed only the broken ones, but the others failed after just a few months

[@steviecandtheplace2b]

There are sellers on AliExpress who sell DIY par can kits, or just the bits you need. You could look into replacing the entire led pcb and the logic pcb.

[@jamesbennettmusic]

Flux will help! Flux and the hot air pen should get them off. The big iron will be good with some flux and braid to get the pads clean and flat again. Clean with alcohol before you do the heatsink compound.

[@steviecandtheplace2b]

I didn’t explain this but the first attempt involved flux (the dribbly stuff) with the hot air pen. Normally your suggestion would work, but the PCB is bonded to an aluminium/aluminum heatsink, which does its job and sinks the heat away. I also used IPA Solvent to clean the pads, pretty sure I showed that. Will try using desoldering braid in the inevitable follow-up video tho, thanks.