How To Adjust Cup & Cone Wheel Bearings On Your Bike - Maintenance Monday

Cup and cone bearings are not just a thing of the past and there are still lots of hubs/wheels that are fitted with them. Jon talks you through what tools you'll need and then how to finely adjust your bearings to get them buttery smooth.
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You are going to need cone spanners but depending on your hub setup, you can sometimes get away with just one and then a standard wrench or adjustable spanner. Another great bit of kit is an axle vice, it does make things easier but it’s not essential.
We’re going to adjust the cones so that means removing any slight play, or side to side movement. The best way of identifying if you have any play is with the wheel correctly tightened inside of your frame, check if there is any movement. If you have any, do not ride. You risk damaging the wheel with, quite simply very serious consequences.
Has Jon inspired you to service your cup and cone bearings? Let us know how it goes! 👇
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[@gcntech]

Does your bike have cup and cone bearings? Let us know if Jon's guide helps you adjust them.👇

[@AndrewTSq]

Both my Shimano and Campagnolo Zonda wheels have them. Thanks for the video!

[@gcntech]

Glad you liked the video Andrew

[@awatson16]

Good timing before I do my pre-winter grease and check over this weekend. I ride an old battered steel frame with cup and cones and i remember it being awkward last time I gave it a shot. No axle vice for me though.

[@Hardi26]

Yes I do have them on my old bike. No, I can do better than him. His guide was still nice to watch. ^_^

[@derahmad2831]

Yes, I recently dismantled the axle and the bearings, cleaned every thing up with degreaser, regreased the bearings and axle, and got everything back to place and adjusted the hub. 👌

[@shockernot]

Very helpful in understanding how these hubs work. I just fixed the hub on my old bike however I didn't have the special cone wrench so what i ended up doing was put the lock nut of one side of the hub directly into the vice and spun the open lock nut on the other side spinning for the lock nut and the cone. I know this wasn't the most proper way of doing it but it worked like a charm.

[@cliffrichard5086]

cheers for the helpful video. Now I need a vice, but before a vice, i'm gonna need a solid table to put the vice on, but then that means i'm gonna need a new room to put the table. Nevermind, i've done the adjustment on the floor and it works!

[@jesusenriqueriveratellez531]

I don’t have bikes with this system, but my dad have a couple of old schwinn, so it was really useful for him. Old school rules!!!!!

[@D.Eldon_]

I like cup and cone bearings because they are so easy to service and can be easily customized (custom balls -- such as ceramic -- and custom grease to suit different situations). The latest version from Shimano even include a nifty built-in "digital" adjuster to make the adjustment process easier. However, I'm surprised that *Jon omitted the quick release pressure* in his "How To" video. It's an essential part of the process. If you adjust the bearings without considering the additional pressure on them from the quick release skewer, then mount the wheel on the bike with a quick release skewer, the final bearing pressure will be too high and the bearings will wear out prematurely. Worse, you may ruin the cones or races. And, if the races are damaged, you usually have to replace the hubs. It's easy to account for the quick release pressure by tightening the quick release skewer on the wheel while the wheel is off the bike. To mimic the fork drop outs, simply slide a 10 mm closed-end spanner on either end of the axle when you insert the skewer. Adjust the bearings so they are just shy of the optimum pressure, then tighten the quick release skewer and test the bearing pressure by spinning the wheel. I do this while holding the wheel in the air by the two wrenches (that mimic the fork arms). This technique is a fast way to nail the correct bearing adjustment off the bike with the quick release skewer. Incidentally, I've got the same wheel axle vise adapter from Park Tool but I stopped using it many years ago because it isn't needed for the above procedure.

[@philippbeckonert1678]

Good comment! It's important to know however, that newer Shimano hubs for example have a mechanism that isn't influenced by quick release pressure. For older ones you are spot on!

[@Megadeth6633]

I thought the locknuts actually did their job but they don't? Does it really change that much? Just tried this on my mavic front hub (sealed cartridge bearing, cup and cone style preload adjustment) and the quick release doesn't seem to have any effect

[@nirajshr]

@@Megadeth6633 On one of my wheels, the quick release does have a significant pressure. Enough that you have to leave just the right amount of play. And these wheels came stock on a bike bought last year. So, they are still fitting these kind of wheels

[@steveh3483]

Hi, not sure if you willl pick this up, I have a shimano wheel and there is a rubber shroud after the cup and before the lock nut, how can I hold the cup?

[@connormullen6206]

Steve Haresign you can easily remove the “rubber shroud” using a flat head screw driver, be careful not to scratch any components however. The “rubber shroud” is actually a protective measure used to keep dust out of your hubs ball bearings.

[@rogergarcia306]

Thank you so much, it's been a while since I have adjusted the cones. I have now adjusted the cones all good :)

[@johnjfrederick]

I have to say, dealing with cup/cone, even with all of the proper tools on hand, is my absolute least favorite bicycle maintenance task. It’s an art, that’s for sure.

[@NeoPayneHK]

nice one and the flat/thin/narrow cone is a must have tools for fixing this

[@TheElderOne28]

Before seeing your videa, I actually did this today for the first time on a recently bought 15-20yr old bike with Mavic CXP30 wheels. The front wheel had some play in it and me being a newbie tightened everything way too much then got down to taking it apart altogether...Had to clean and regrease the hub and ball bearings...scary situation to find yourself alone for the first time....I did learn a lot though

[@jasoncrowe2663]

Really appreciate the tips. Help me to better understand how to better find that balance of no play but still spinning freely

[@pcm9969]

I have found a technique for adjusting cones just right that allows for the slight tightening that occurs when the quick release is locked down. It'a hard to describe, but I'll try. Off the bench, try to wiggle the axle. If you can hear a little clicking when you wiggle it, but can't really feel movement with your fingers, then it's just loose enough. When you lock down the quick release, it will remove that ever so slight bit of play, but still spin freely. Hope this helps.

[@player1tv]

The quick release definitely compresses the bearing even more. Our current issue, spins sweet, then you lock it in and simulates the breaks rubbing and slows fast

[@Philc2]

Exactly, and no two wheels are going to be exactly the same. So nice when you feel just the tiniest bit of play, but once mounted there is none, and it rotates from the slightest breeze.

[@pcm9969]

@@player1tv Do you have a trace of play in the bearing before tightening down? If it's perfect off the bike, it will be too tight when locked down on the bike.

[@vulnerablerummy]

dont mind me, just commenting for archival purpose

[@Panironic]

That's exactly what I do and I never had a problem

[@jffydavy5509]

I used to get paid to show professionals how to adjust Campy Nuovo Record hubs like you used in this video. When dealing with cup-cone quick release hubs you have to leave some play in that adjustment. The quick release rod will compress and distort the axle-bearing adjustment. This distortion will produce drag. You can take a brand new cup-cone hub, that feels perfectly smooth with no play, close the quick release in a frame and the hub will develop significant drag. Take two steel dropouts, not in a frame, and close the q/r and you will feel the drag. That little bit of looseness you leave at the axle, as part of the adjustment, will vanish when the wheel is anchored in the frame. "Cheap" cup cone hubs require the same type of adjustment. The factory adjustment was to have no play for truing a new wheel after assembly...only the truing stand holds the wheel not a quick release.

[@hoopshooper9102]

Beauty man, that's exactly what I was after to adjust the play on my granddaughters bike. Bloody thing is only 3 months old and purchased it from a reputable shop too. Now off to purchase a set of those come spanners and jaws to fit my vice....👍

[@snorttroll4379]

Good purchase linl?

[@pauljames4858]

What must be mentioned here is that if you do not have a vice, you must have someone stop the OTHER cones and locknut underneath turning, and by doing so hopefully also the axle, otherwise when you tighten the upper lock nut against cone as per video, rather than the locknut turn and clamp against the cone, the cone turns on the axle and although it tightens against the locknut, in doing so it loosens itself!

[@ToThePointCT]

This is the problem I had yesterday I was spending hours on end trying to adjust my mountain bike cones until I realised what was going on. What I couldn't see was everytime I adjusted the cone and tightened the lock nut it was loosening the opposite cone

[@Footballer7Borja]

I adjusted the rear wheel cup and cone bearings to perfection, but when I tighten the quick release nut on fitting the wheel to the bike, it loses its smoothness. This then requires a slight loosening of the cone. Why don't you mention this effect in your videos?

[@tomgruitt6563]

My front wheel had a bit of a wobble yesterday, now it doesn't. Thanks GCN!

[@philippbeckonert1678]

This is really a good and long needed video with some great in depth tech advice.

[@gcntech]

Thanks Phillip!

[@philippbeckonert1678]

You're welcome GCNN. Keep them comming :)

[@worthydaydream]

Thank you friend. I know nothing about bikes, but rode mine down a large bumpy dirt hill and had the exact problem in your video. This will probably make you cringe but I didn't have a 'cone spanner' so I used a regular wrench and just muscled it and hoped the wobble would stop. It did! I'm happy!

[@GameplayerSolCley]

3:27 and that is why I am looking at your class. Thanks for teaching.

[@waynosfotos]

I have read that cup and cone are much better at side way forces like when leaning the bike over, so are considered still to be the gold standard.

[@Mersuharrastaja]

In my opion, when you adjust cup and cone bearings, it is same mount time to clean and regrease it. Ok, I admit it, takes few more minute but gives you long time for free for hub proglem.

[@RJ4960]

I always re-check adjustments when the wheel is mounted on the bike, as I've found that tightening wheel nuts or Q/R skewars often results in a slightly over-tightened bearing.

[@TimFitzwater]

When I buy vintage bikes I usually do a full rebuild/regrease of the hubs. I'll be interested to see your next video to know if I've been doing exactly right.

[@JackMitchell404]

Same, I consider it bad form to ride a vintage hub you haven't seen inside, though mine are all gear hubs and Dynohubs, so the matter is more pressing.

[@petinka721]

Jon make a great job and yes! I have a bike with cup and cone and it will be useful as all the other videos how to take care of your own bike. That is a great feeling take a ride with an lubricated bike there everything work as it shall do. Especially if you have made it self I can tell.

[@AlvaroQF]

My MTB has cup and cone bearings (SLX Hubs) and i like them, I’m the king adjusting them.

[@BassSwirls]

No, the amount of axle protruding does not influence the wheels central position ..hub width is constant providing you have put everything back together correctly...saying that it is best to have equivalent lengths. Its always best to nominate an adjustment side, I favour the opposite side to the cassette for ease of access for quick tweaks post rebuild...yes that can happen if you've used a good sticky grease. I even loctite the locked side after setting its correct position. Always measure the protruding section of axle before you strip it. The locked side is your datum ...also due to rotational forces the cassette side can benefit from loctite

[@SuperHyperExtra]

Exactly what I was thinking. Happy that someone else agree with me... On the rear wheel, that's essentially the job of the spacer ring(s). In fact, I let a little more (2 or 3 mm) axle protrude on the non-driving side because I have a trailer adapter that slip on the axle on this side.

[@markdeisher8012]

Yeh I agree and was a bit confused with his statement. 3:57

[@gianlu190790]

Everyone Should Have One!

[@colinthompson5881]

Really helpful, thanks

[@AkAkAkNeil]

excellent just what I was after!

[@genova2006]

Great video. Thanks much

[@mattgies]

I love that your example wheel is a tubular rim on a Campy hub with a grease port and a keyed axle and washers. Parts may change but this skill will be relevant for a good long time. Although you did neglect to mention that the adjustment for a QR axle should leave a tiny amount of play/lash, so that when the axle is compressed by the QR skewer, it has no play at all.

[@backpacker3421]

Just to be clear, you don't need a special vise. You just need jaw pads with proper size grooves in them. You can see these close up at about 1:55. They should be the correct length to fit your vise. Most attach with magnets and are fairly cheap.

[@jonathanzappala]

Christopher Cornette when he’s talking about a axel vise, it’s an insert that goes in the vise, it’s made of soft aluminum jaws that don’t damage the steel axel threads and are the right size for front and rear axles. It’s not very expensive.

[@sprocketandwheel]

When adjusting a cup and cone bearing determine which is going to be the right side of the bike..( front wheel only).. lock that sides cone and lock nut snugly and make the adjustment from the opposite side.. in normal operation if you leave the right side loose the tendency is for it tighten itself as you ride..therefore destroying the hub..if the left side is loose it will just loosen more.. on the rear wheel it's the drive side..make all adjustments from the non drive side..that's why the bottom bracket the fixed bearing is on the drive side..

[@taitai300]

I recently serviced the bearings on my dad's bike. All I had was a needle nose plier and an adjustable wrench, but I seem to have gotten a pretty good result.

[@taitai300]

@Craig Falconer thanks, I'm probably going to buy one, but that's what I had at hand and I didn't have time to get proper tools.

[@johndee68]

Good explanation. Thanks for the video.

[@gcntech]

Glad you liked it

[@johndee68]

@@gcntech I tried to find any video you might have made about what actual grease you use in the wheel bearings. Can't find anything. As from experience, different greases cause different drag ratings. Currently, believe it or not I'm using petroleum jelly as bearing grease. Seems to work OK.

[@edward8602]

​@@johndee68Cześć. Chyba należy uważać przy stosowaniu wazeliny gdyż niektóre są kwasowe oraz temperatura topnienia jest dość niska.

[@criticalmile5631]

My mountain bike does have cones and bearings in them. I have it used from friend. Nice bike and i serviced cones and bearings. Lost one bearing and it works ok.

[@snorttroll4379]

One ball or one bearing

[@442z3]

Ok, I'm very confident that my wheel knowledge is coming along! Safe!

[@vincesmith4275]

Very good, thanks.However at 3.59 Its the O.D. of cone nuts that determines if wheel remains in center not a couple of threads either side.

[@stephenblakey4913]

I used a butter knife n a socket set to adjust mine to stop the wheel wobble.

[@Stefanosinf]

My fulcrum racing 3 are like this. Bought them second hand for 200euros but the back hub was sticking and grinding. I opened them, cleaned the rust, changed the ball bearings and sanded down the cones a bit to smooth them (they where pitted). Now the are somehow acceptable, but they still grind a bit and i have let them slightly looser than they supposed to be. The only way is new hub parts, i think. Anyway, thanks for the video. I used an older video of GCN to make those repairs! ;)

[@Stefanosinf]

@@ernestslenss6405 Had to experiment before I committed tho.

[@grumpus27]

How do you "sand down" a cone? They are hardened steel (and often just case hardened, so once the original surface is gone there's not much point regrinding them even if you could produce a properly concentric race of appropriate curvature and smoothness).

[@Stefanosinf]

@@grumpus27 I just sanded down the corrosion and tried to do my best.

[@edward8602]

​@@grumpus27Kulki są chyba mniejszej twardości więc może to mieć sens.

[@intheshadows..2107]

Thanks tightened and no loose front wheel

[@leqin]

If you haven't got a vice, because they cost serious dosh - at least a decent one would, but you can get a Black & Decker Workmate for about £30 and you can use the axle clamp tool in that plus it can do double duty as a coffee table so whats not to like - looking forward to the full rebuild video Jon - love my cup and cone campy and shimano wheels.

[@jonathanzappala]

Nigel Oulton I have the axel vise and I clamp it on the edge of a table. The axel vise itself isn’t very expensive.

[@ToThePointCT]

I clamp mine into a bicycle work stand laid on the floor

[@TGRacing]

I had a problem recently where the C&C were just working loose even though the locknuts were tight. LBS must have done something magic as it has been OK for a while now. I find that cheap C&C spanners are a nightmare. Worth the investment in decent ones.

[@michaelashbrook3195]

maybe a bit of blue loctite?

[@jonathanzappala]

You skipped the last step, it still has to spin free once the skewers are tightened. I use a weight to see how the pendulum swing of the wheel is.

[@paddlepower888]

My BikeFriday has a Shimano Alfine 11 internal geared hub with cup/cone bearings. The wheel didn't spin for long (about 2 seconds) after a vigorous spin by hand--Culprit: the cup and cone bearings were too tight and/or the resistance of all the stuff inside the hub. Due to the design of the hub, I could only work the cone on the left side. Spins for three seconds now. Yay

[@gakbrenti]

it's an art

[@sudduthjonathan]

Axle vice, axle vice Every morning you greet me Large and blue Nice and tight You look happy to meet me

[@pauljames4858]

and...axle position , (number of threads visible) is NOT going to affect the wheel spacing between frame/forks, they sit against the locknuts, the threads need to be roughly equal because there needs to be enough to support wheel in frame/forks but not too much as this would protrude outwards and prevent the quick release skewers from working.., in fact thinking about it, they have a shape that allows for minor protrusions i feel!.. I dont even know jack sh*t about bikes but believe me on this!!

[@minuteman4199]

Every spring I used to take my hubs apart completely, clean re-grease and reassemble as part of the maintenance to get my bike ready for the next season. Was that overkill, or normal? Also, I thought all hub bearings were sealed, and this wan't required anymore. I know hubs don't look like that anymore. My current bike is a Trek Domane with Bontrager wheels. Does it have sealed maintenance free bearings, or should I be cleaning/regreasing them?

[@alexmorgan3435]

Cup and cones are typically older hubs are modern cheap Shimano hubs. Once water or grit gets in past the seals which aren't great and corrosion starts on the race surfaces then you may was well bin the hubs. You can replace cones and ball bearings if you can find replacement new ones but not races. These cup and cone hubs should be stripped and regressed regularly to keep them in good order which is a real PITA. I had some Shimano XTR hubs where the hub race on the non drive side pitted and had to bin them. I now use much better Hope hubs.

[@justluke8836]

My wheels that came with my bike have cup and cone and they came with ill adjusted wheels, been riding them all summer and wondered why they didn't coast too far and why i was quite slow with just as much effort. Tinkered with the wheels and now theyre running forever.

[@FalkinerTim]

I have a new bike and find the front wheel slows down quickly when I spin it. I assume it is too tight.

[@backpacker3421]

Understand this is a video about adjusting the cones, and it's great for that. But, unless you're doing this on a new wheel or freshly serviced hub, I can't imagine why you would make this adjustment without taking the opportunity to clean and regrease the bearings.

[@mattj2166]

Time. Riding a crappy mountain bike on my commute, the hub came quite loose for some reason. This was a quick fix to keep me riding.

[@grumpus27]

@@mattj2166 You really need to find what that reason was rather than trying to adjust it away - it could be an axle that is about to fail completely, broken balls that are going to chew up the bearing surfaces ...

[@mattj2166]

@@grumpus27 I really don't

[@Hambini]

I have touched John's wheel!

[@BuildBreakFix]

Gesh and to think all this time... i been tightening my bearings wrong. I always figured the high pitch squeal and grinding noise was normal! Who would of knew right? On the bright side my method has an awesome spark trail behind my bike if i get going past 5mph for more then 30 seconds!

[@WillN2Go1]

#askGCN I was just fiddling around with my old bike repacking the hubs: Adjusting the cones I got, 1. wheel won't move, 2. there's a wee bit of friction and a rumble 3. No rumble free spinning, but a slight movement. Unless the old ball bearings I didn't replace (but should have, they don't cost much) are a problem, which of these is what I want? (I suspect the right answer is a wee bit of friction, because that's what the sealed bearings I've purchased for other things seem to be adjusted to. And the slight rumble I suspect is just wear on the ball bearings or the race.)

[@xoxUnD3R0aThxox]

would that fix wobble in the front wheel?

[@steveh3483]

Hi, not sure if you willl pick this up, I have a shimano wheel and there is a rubber shroud after the cup and before the lock nut, how can I hold the cup?

[@67daltonknox]

No way. I'm delighted with cartridge bearings.

[@zack_120]

My personal preference is to leave just a tiny bit of 'play' to minimize the friction and yet without wearing as that bit of looseness doesn't cause attack of the hub by the balls.

[@crominion6045]

This is how mine are most often set up. When adjusted for zero play, I almost always feel a bit of "grab" at some point in the wheel's rotation. When I back the cones off just a hair, the grab goes away and the rotation becomes smooth, but it leaves a nearly imperceptible amount of play. I've ridden more miles than I can calculate with my wheels set up like this and zero issues. 👍

[@zack_120]

@@crominion6045 you used a perfect word: just a 'hair' off 👍 But sadly this very beneficial, easy trick is not mentioned even at this so-called professional site. I want to be so direct here to wake up those who need to be. Humans still have a long way to go before arrival at being civilized.

[@blissbouwerij4033]

You did the simple front wheel and avoided how to tighten the locking nut on the drive side rear wheel, which is the only one that gives anyone any trouble. My 5 year old can tighten front wheel bearings....

[@rajantob]

In my case, the knocking or tapping in the hub when moving the wheel side to side happens only in some places. I.e. along only a specific 12 to 3 o'clock section of the wheel. If I tighten the nuts even slightly more, the bearings seize and it will not turn. Do I need a new hub altogether? It looks mostly fine by eye and I think I haven't lost any bearing balls.

[@edward8602]

Cześć. Należy sprawdzić: miseczki, kulki, stożki (bieżnia stożków starła się w nierównomiernym obwodzie), oś (może być krzywa). Możliwe że niektore kulki starły się nadmiernie lub od zawsze były mniejsze.

[@pierrerreip]

Hi I have a Shimano hub model number HB-M618 according to the manual I need 2 cone wrenches which are 22mm. The manual specifies a torque of 21-26Nm. I have had no luck trying to ask Shimano what tool they use to set torque as cone wrenches are only about 2mm thick. So my question to you is if there is a way to measure the torque what tool could it be achieved with for this job? I thought of trying to use an open-ended crowfoot wrench of 22mm on what you refer to as the lock nut with one 22mm cone spanner but have yet to attempt this and have no idea if possible yet.

[@criticalmile5631]

Jon another great video, thank you👍 Are your friends at GCN and you allowed to use those beautiful Park Tools for personal use on your dream machines😊?

[@allanbuttery5297]

Use Marine Grease.The only problem with this request is that you will not obtain this lubricant at Car repair outlets,Halfords for example will try to palm you off with the discouragement.Morris K99 is the excellent but you have to find an Online Chandler/Boat repair dealer.

[@edward8602]

Taki smar stawia zbyt duży opór ponieważ jest mocno lepki. Ciężko obciążone elementy także pracują na takim (lub podobnym) oraz koparki, szczególnie gdy pracują w mokrym środowisku.

[@Arnthorg]

What happens if there's play in the cup and cone bearings and you continue riding?

[@scootosan]

to prove accurate adjustment I hold the wheel with both hands and give it a spin. If you feel any pulsation back out the Cones. Once on the bike you should also not feel the wiggle as Jon explained.

[@CBRadiouk1]

The way my dad showed me was, adjust cones so no side wiggle. With the wheel on the bike and tightened up, the weight of the valve should rotate the wheel so the valve is at the 6 oclock position.

[@edward8602]

Pulsowanie może oznaczać krzywą oś (nie wiem czy była mowa o tym w filmie, nie znam języka).

[@davidv5552]

Would be nice to have those tools on hand .

[@agoodgodblessyoubothbuback7540]

Can remove the and cup and put bearing instead cup and corn nut

[@lodvaessen]

I do this like John says but my body starts to get to tight, if the body is free the wheel has play...

[@nicoleainsworth6603]

What height is this good for?

[@bimmerbent]

For all the comments below about Quick Release Skewer compression, then you must not have a steel axle. If you tension the nuts against each other (as you should, and no I didn't watch entire video) then there will be NO Movement from Tighning Skewer, unless your Axle is rubber or something that compresses.

[@LaurenceGough]

Steel does compress too.

[@jankroken3881]

Hi, I live in Norway, where we can afford anything except decent roads. As a consequence, my wheels have taken quite a beating from potholes, pavement edges and road surfaces that makes my teeth hurt. In addition to that, I also recently managed to ride maybe 1-2000 km with brakes worn down to the metal... so, how do I know if my wheels are safe or if I should buy new ones? I don't want them to collapse under me at the worst possible moment...

[@richardggeorge]

I use a dental caliper shown in the attached website link (5th picture shown) to measure the thickness of my rims where there is no wear indicator. Most people replace rim in range of thickness of 0.7-1.0mm depending on how much you want to push your luck oxfordcycling.uk/worn-wheel-rims/

[@arncj18]

how to replace the cups?

[@kulantro6576]

*_Cone wrench size?_*

[@jlowhighlow]

I find that the tightness of my quick release can affect how smoothly my cup and cone bearings roll, is this normal? I can tighten the cones until it is perfect when off the bike, but as soon as I secure the wheel into my forks the wheel quite clearly slows down slightly when I try to roll it

[@johankunze5163]

jlowhighlow, that’s normal. The Quick release skewer pressure compresses the axel slightly so the cones become a little tight. Either adjust the wheel with the slightest of play of the bike or try to adjust the wheel in the bike with the right quick release pressure.

[@jlowhighlow]

Ah okay, will do that then.Thanks!

[@awatson16]

This was my problem last time actually. Will give this a go next time I open it up.

[@richardharker2775]

Lock your cones firmly with the lock nut but not so much that you can still adjust the cones against the lock nut to back off the pressure on the bearings. You should have a very slight play in the bearing so that when the wheel is locked in the frame the play in the bearing cannot be felt. There will be enough pressure from the skewer that nothing will come loose.

[@bikesmart5540]

The exposed threads does not effect how central the wheel sits provided it is not the causing an obstruction on one side when closing the quick release against the dropout. Also you failed to mention the importance of adjusting to leave slight play to allow for the quick release adding tension to the axle when installed on the bike. I would also like to add that your final comment regarding the cassette/freewheel side being the issue dictating that you may need to remove it to make adjustments is incorrect as for 90% of adjustment issues there is no difference between adjusting one side and the other, therefore you can avoid this issue by simply working from the other side.

[@SuperHyperExtra]

Yes.

[@felismanul521]

Is it enough to tighten just one side of the wheel in order to remove the play, or is it both?

[@chunhaylee]

You only need to adjust one side

[@waynepalkovitz1747]

While servicing a six month old wheel which developed a distinct wobble after a few hundred miles, I found 8 equal-sized bearings on the right and left sides of the hub with a huge empty space, large enough on each side to accommodate one more matching bearing of the same exact size as the other 8. The manufacturer of the wheel claimed that only 8 bearings were planned and adding an additional could damage the cone and race. But with the extra bearing installed, the wheel runs smoothly with no wobble. Will installing that extra bearing damage or cause premature wear of the race or cones?

[@grumpus27]

Actually the gap is usually slightly less than the space occupied by one ball, but "if in doubt leave one out" - that way balls will be running at the designed angle and with room to move. The balls don't run on the largest diameter of the bearing cup, but in the middle of its curved face (and that of the cone) a balancing act that is disrupted if you force them to run at a larger diameter by jamming in "just one more". If you can't get proper adjustment with fewer balls I'd suspect major wear in at least one of the bearing surfaces (I've seen hubs come from the factory over-tightened and under-lubricated, which will chew up their cones pretty quickly if not corrected).

[@edward8602]

Kulki mogą przylegać mniejszą powierzchnią gdyż będą pracować na większej średnicy - pod innym kątem niż zamierzony. Może nastąpić większy nacisk a to spowoduje większy opór (niekoniecznie odczuwalny podczas jazdy) oraz szybsze zużycie.

[@two-tee]

are there still new hub with this type of bearing?

[@Drago0900]

Plenty of em. Even thousand dollar bikes use this system.

[@davidwilliams2180]

fancy hub vice , or drill a hole in a bit of wood

[@stektirade]

ok so how do you do this when your adjustment is on the cassette side and the cup is hidden in the cassette and you cannot put a wrench on the cup nut and lock nut when it is hidden in the hub? even with the cassette removed it looks like it still isnt accessible.

[@120CCPM]

In terms of adjustment, there is no difference whatsoever between working on the cone/nut on the cassette side vs. the other side. What you're adjusting at the end is the distance between the cones (as they press against the ball bearings in the cups), so it does not matter which one you move. You want the axle to be centered, though, not because this affects the wheel position (as incorrectly stated in the video) but because you want an equal amount of axle to stick out on both ends, to properly engage in the slots on the frame. Say you make your adjustment working on the opposite side of the cassette, and when you are done you notice that the axle sticks out 7mm from the nut, vs. 5mm on the cassette side. To be centered, you will want 6mm on each side (7+5=12mm, 12/2=6mm). This is how you do it: - loosen the cone/nut on the opposite side, almost to the point that the cone comes off the axle - push the axle through in order to expose the cone/nut on the cassette side - unlock the nut on the cassette side (you might have to move some dust seals to reach the cone) - tighten the cone in by 1mm (we were at 5mm, we need to be at 6mm) and re-lock the nut - push the axle through, make the actual adjustment on the opposite side - make sure the axle sticks out equally on both sides (small difference is ok)

[@itisno1]

destroyed my last hub from not adjusting. Same issue with my new hub. Intermittent clicking noise with each cycle. Need these hubs to last. 20$ second hand mountain bikes.

[@edward8602]

W niektórych piastach jest mozliwość wymiany misek.

[@micha-42]

Someone has to compile Jon's "nooooow"'s.

[@MrLuigi-oi7gm]

Is the only thing that makes a regular vice an axle vice the special jaws I see in the video? If so, can one buy just the jaws?

[@jonathanzappala]

Mr. Luigi yes it’s an insert you buy. Not very expensive.

[@MrLuigi-oi7gm]

Jonathan Zappala Thank you!!!

[@ToThePointCT]

You do not need a bench vice I don't know why people say that maybe just marketing. If you have a bicycle work stand just lie it down on the floor and clamp the Axel vice into it

[@chrisnumnuts8671]

why do corns come out of the shops to tight

[@leonzhang9273]

Hi, is it okay to have a tiny bit of lateral play at the hub? I tight the cone nut with hand just enough that wheel spins freely but after I tighten the outter nut I can sense a tiny bit play from up and down. But if I further tighten the cone nut to get rid of the play I will feel the hub gritting when spining it

[@snorttroll4379]

Did you find an answer?

[@Wilhelm_LAS]

@@snorttroll4379 did you find an answer too?

[@snorttroll4379]

I just adjusted it to roll enough. I did not find the answer.@@Wilhelm_LAS

[@davechaplin912]

Could have used this in the 70’s

[@lacihalasz]

Can i change that con with some other con if i changing the bearings ?

[@619sharksnap]

As long as they're the same size

[@mehmoodzafar4706]

hiii,I try to replace my cone nuts twice with 5/16 and 3/8 cone nuts but both time the cone nuts could not fit due to cone washer size and cone itself ,I am trying to replace the front wheel which has wobbly cones,Any suggestion what thread pitch axle and cone nuts I need to replace them?.....Thanks

[@edward8602]

​@@mehmoodzafar4706Cześć. Jaką średnicę osi posiadasz? Są stożki na oś 5/16 mniejsze niż na oś 3/8. Są podobnej wielkości jak te na oś o średnicy 5/16 lub tej samej ale na oś 3/8. Mniejszy stożek niezależnie od średnicy osi, współpracuje z mniejszymi kulkami. Większy stożek z kulkami 1/4 a mniejszy nie wiem z jakimi. Mogę się mylić i wprowadzić Cię w błąd. Jeśli zależy Ci, napisz a sprawdzę w swoim rowerze. Mam mniejsze stożki na osi 3/8 a kulki mniejsze niż 1/4. Na osi przedniej. Na tylnej oś 3/8 i kulki 1/4.

[@adimacovschi]

#askgcntech Hi Jon. I have the following issue, and your colleagues recommended to contact you for some assistance: I have an Ultegra Di2 system which I try to index (rear derailleur). Everything worked fine, except all my gears (11) are shifted with one position, meaning I cannot shift to hardest gear (smallest sprocket) and when I shift to easiest gear (largest sprocket) the chain "leaves" the sprocket and shifts in between the cassette and the spokes. I tried to adjust the low and high limit screws, but then I only got left with 10 gears. No more chain slipping between the cassette and the spokes, but still no shifting to hardest gear, because the high limit screw is not limiting anything, actually. :) Is it something that I am doing wrong? Or not doing at all? Thanks in advance for your help!

[@edward8602]

Cześć. Naprawiłeś problem?

[@oreocarlton3343]

Any more tricks of the trade, MRGRUMPY?

[@oreocarlton3343]

@MRGRUMPY53 thanks friend!

[@jonathanzappala]

Wheels mfg is the only place to find the non Shimano ones

[@bobwilson7464]

I always struggle with cone adjustment. I am getting better (very slowly) but its a long process. I bought and axle vise but the axle still rotates in it. Not sure if my vise is not strong enough or what, but it was a little discouraging.

[@snaponmark]

Okay, legitimate question. If you call regular wrenches "spanners," what do you call a spanner wrench?

[@chrisenright7003]

The amount of threads exposed on the axle makes absolutely no difference to the wheel alignment. It's the position of the rim vs the outside edge of the locknuts. You're right to say that the amount of axle showing should be equal though - the weight of the bike and rider is supported on there so having an equal amount each side is both good for stress distribution and for OCD.

[@SuperHyperExtra]

Absolutely!

[@jagfrediani]

I think if you have the vice you are most likely to have done this job a few times, therefore, wouldn't need the video. It would have been nice to have tips on how to do it when you don't have the vice

[@TimFitzwater]

I never knew about the vice - so its actually the thing I learned from this video! : )

[@edward8602]

Dokręcić stożek wystarczająco blisko kulek, następnie dokręcić do niego nakrętkę blokującą jednocześnie trzymając kluczem przeciwległą nakrętkę (po drugiej stronie osi). Gdy całość będzie odpowiednio blisko łożyska, trzymać kluczem nakrętkę blokującą, tylko po stronie regulowanej a stożek dokręcać do niej (w lewą stronę). Gdy zacznie robić się za luźno, przestać kręcić stożkiem a złapać kluczem nakrętkę blokującą po przeciwległej stronie osi (lewa strona osi) a regulować nakrętką blokującą po stronie regulowanej (po prawej stronie osi).

[@davejoseph5615]

5:00

[@Philc2]

The exact amount of thread showing on either size should not affect the centering of the wheel. Only if so much thread interferes with normal tightening of the skewer or nuts would that matter. Fail.

[@obbzerver]

Irresponsibly incomplete advice. If you do it exactly the way this guy outlines you'll destroy your hub. It's a lot more involved than what he shows. The act of tightening the outer nut against the cone, even when held by a cone wrench compresses the axle and increases the load on the bearings. You have to also tighten the cone wrench against the outer nut, and you'll probably have to try it over and over until you just get rid of lateral play - and then anticipate the impact of the quick release.

[@GasanGus]

are there guides that describe the correct process?

[@joebloggsgogglebox]

I reckon he must have over £1000 worth of tools there in the background

[@ChristopherMoler-hs7fm]

This is my first road kzbin.infoUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA and I have taken it out a handful of times and so far it is exceeding all of my expectations. I didn’t want to break the bank on a first bike and the herd is a great option for getting a fast bike with reliable components. I plan on riding this bike for many years to come. Thank you Sava!

[@dannycarter1966]

Sounds too fiddly, I think I'll ride mine into the floor then get s new wheel from Halfords. They'll swap the cassette free.