How to Analyze a Raf Simons Runway Show

Full analysis of Raf Simons Autumn Winter 2018 runway show at nyfw. Using the show notes as a guide, I analyze all references and themes in the show. Especially as they connect to the legendary 2001 Riot Riot Riot runway show.
TRIGGER WARNING: near the end of the video, I show stills from a film that include a dead body and someone injecting heroin.
Theme song by Buku: / buku
SUPPORT RAF SIMONS: rafsimons.com/
Bliss Foster is the name on my birth certificate.

[@lukinsstudios1096]

bliss foster one of the most underrated fashion youtubers

[@BlissFoster]

Lukins Studios thanks so much, bro 💫💫

[@swagjuulking286]

Facts

[@jakealexis9032]

InstaBlaster...

[@icaprone1]

Hard work and love for the subject

[@ganggang2176]

Not anymore

[@willowstring1249]

Can we PLEASE get an Undercover mens show analysis, Jun Takahashi's work is incredibly laden with references both overt and subtle, he's an incredibly talented designer and he doesnt get enough recognition in the west

[@BlissFoster]

I’m obsessed with Undercover. I’ve got some excellent videos planned for them.

[@BlissFoster]

In the meantime, have you seen my Rick Owens video?

[@willowstring1249]

Bliss Foster Hell yeah im excited!! And I have of course, I love Rick and it was the first of your videos I watched! I’m in love with that show having seen the Brueghel painting in person. I also loved his most recent men’s and women’s they were insaneeeeee

[@BlissFoster]

Willow String find me on IG, Willow. I wanna ask you something about the painting.

[@miymurakami]

I second this

[@177mrman]

i’ve binge watched all of the runway show breakdowns. crazy how this man is not one of the biggest fashion you tubers. really enjoy his vids

[@BlissFoster]

Thanks so much!!

[@mizzpink98z24cavi]

Agreed.

[@maple5212]

I know I’m Literally 4 years late but this thought has been in my head for days now. I think the look with Christiane and Detlev on opposite knees of the trousers is a reference to flappers. Flappers would rouge or paint their knees to draw attention to them and one of the motifs were a boy and a girl on each knee which would “kiss” when the wearer did the Charleston. I think Raf Simons may be deliberately gesturing at one of the most iconic subcultures of the 20th century. Defined like so many subcultures by its fashion, music, and substance abuse.

[@qqq6310]

Seriously Raf's researches and ideas are whole another level🔥

[@xaviermartinez2924]

I’m never going to see these collection the same again. Interesting wow

[@theespottedgiraffe_5368]

it's interesting how there are so many rapper cosigns now

[@leonarddecausmaecker8154]

This is amazing man thank you so much for helping me further understand this iconic show in such a clean way! Best fashion channel I've found so far on yt!

[@charlottehigginsiati1190]

This is soooo intelligently articulated. WOW. thank you for this. Would literally pay for this level of analysis

[@heikkijaakkola9697]

after this video I really enjoy more that collection. Great video man! Subbed

[@TAZS]

Great analysis mate, keep it up would love to see more!!!

[@starskey7]

This is so helpful. I’m doing an analyse about a fashion show for fashion class and chose this one. You’re video is so interesting and you explain it all so well. It’s just one thing to have a lot of knowledge about a thing but if you aren’t able to talk about it properly that knowledge will just be useful for yourself. What I’m trying to say is that you are very pleasant to listen to it’s not boring at all! Love this video

[@starskey7]

You the MVP

[@mizzpink98z24cavi]

Fall/Winter 2018 is like my absolute favorite time for runway shows. I'm such a sucker for nostalgia. Even now, I find myself yearning for that time again. I mean you had a kick ass GUCCI show, The FENDI show was amazing, CHANEL (which is my favorite to this day) & of course, BALENCIAGA. There are others but those are the ones that REALLY stood out to me. I could watch those all day long. I have to admit, I don't know much about Raf Simons, but I am learning more and more as I watch your videos. I'm gonna keep it 100, I only know Raf Simons because of ASAP Rocky lol I love him. You are a fashion saint to all of us who truly appreciate fashion.

[@BlissFoster]

So kind of you to say, Tiffany. Thank you 💫💫

[@alliebiddle8475]

these videos are really great!!!! thank you for the time you put into them!

[@BlissFoster]

Thank you so much, Allie :)

[@RottenRyan]

Subbed bro. I love your personality. Your reviews aren’t boring and are extremely amusing yet knowledgeable!

[@BlissFoster]

Ryan XIAO means a lot coming from you, man!

[@pauline1809]

Your analysis of the movie literally just perfectly described my life and thinking my whole life as a teenager and the reason i became addicted

[@BlissFoster]

Glad to hear it resonated with you. I’m still recovering from alcohol addiction myself. Keep pushing, Ty 💫💫

[@joseperezthe3rd]

This is so amazing! Nice work!

[@DosuKinu]

i remember watching the "Christiane F. - Wir Kinder vom Bahnhof Zoo" movie at school, that was so disturbing.. but cool to see all of those references in raf's work, it made me undertsand raf's process better, and maybe apply these techniques to my own process. Great vid man

[@kainebaleurhd2815]

very passionate, analysis is really interesting to watch

[@ReallyNoBrain]

wonderful video, im impatient to see more of your analysis!

[@BlissFoster]

You’re awesome, Cash 💫💫 I appreciate the love

[@as5592]

Love this, because it expands my perception allowing me to appreciate the garments as well as the designer. ✌️

[@maxkilworth]

Really love your channel!

[@sdawsonz]

This video was so fascinating, thank you!

[@BlissFoster]

SimonDawsonVideography thanks for the kind words!

[@qle6]

Wow what a great job. Keep them coming!!!

[@BlissFoster]

SiLdenafil Hicks oh I will! I don’t think I could stop if I wanted to at this point. I love this stuff so much

[@fifi5196]

this video is so fascinating! big up bliss :) I gotta watch the film now

[@BlissFoster]

It’s pretty intense, good luck 🌪🌪

[@jasonjackson1178]

New favourite KZbin account. Love from Sweden

[@rorymccaskill9034]

“This tie dye is quite nice.”⚡️🤣

[@SA-em1lv]

Yeaa this is exactly why i love fashion. This is insane. Bliss has all the right words to explain

[@JamieBarnes11]

Great analysis. I recommend the film highly to anyone who has not seen it yet too.

[@BlissFoster]

Definitely pretty scary at parts. I’ve always gotten really freaked out by withdrawal scenes in movies and this one was INTENSE lmao

[@edwinespada2408]

I’m just now discovering your channel man you’re amazing, subbed

[@BlissFoster]

Thanks so much, Edwin! Be sure to send me a dm on IG so we can talk 💫💫

[@abdelrhmandameen2215]

Watching your videos and analysis I get a very strange feeling. You are very very good at what you do and your depth is absolutely fantastic. I feel like you deserve to have a really good job at a big magazine or fashion website but that would mean we will lose you on here. I don’t want to have to make that choice. Anyway. Have a great night All the love from Sydney

[@vcjjcjxfkihigig5140]

I discovered you a few Minuten ago, now I watch this vid and I have to say, That you are great!

[@BlissFoster]

Danke schoen, Milan :) Follow me on IG so we can more properly meet!

[@everlastingspirit223]

Thank you for your brillance. Very much appreciated....going to watch more now. bye.

[@BionicSheep]

this is INCREDIBLY GOOD thank you for this!!!

[@BlissFoster]

Thanks Martin! Welcome! How’s you find the channel?

[@BionicSheep]

@@BlissFoster thru your reddit post on japanese streetwear! i'm now recommending this to all my friends bc i really like how enthusiastic you are while also being thorough and interesting! it's very good!!!!!!!!!!

[@BlissFoster]

trustworthy martin wow thanks so much! As you can see, I need all the subs I can get haha

[@BionicSheep]

@@BlissFoster you deserve them! i love these!

[@youcantbemyvalentine2649]

okay I just stumbled on your youtube channel and??? why have I never seen you before??? You're amazing??? YAY

[@BlissFoster]

Thank you so much! You should check out the Margiela series 💫💫

[@dnielmrtnz]

Thanks for this video!

[@retroazul]

Wow I loved this never saw that movie, I have watched the video of the fashion show I knew was about drugs, he really got the concept so good. Great work

[@BlissFoster]

Thanks Noel!!

[@retroazul]

@@BlissFoster no problem bro Canada wait for the next ones

[@jackw7666]

i just watched it yesterday, man u gotta watch it if you didn't yet

[@pngneguny]

GREAT analysis

[@michaelkim7538]

I love your channel

[@Goopsandwich89]

great video man just subbed love ur content

[@BlissFoster]

Thanks! You should check out the Rick Owens video!

[@karstenbonnaire2706]

Need more of these

[@BlissFoster]

Have you seen the other eps? We got Rick, CDG, Kiko, Off-White

[@fancyleo2503]

That loose thread on his right sleeve is killing me D: D:

[@xaviermartinez2924]

You are a genius. Keep up the work

[@BlissFoster]

Xavi Martinez thanks so much, that’s very kind of you. Find me on IG so we can meet!

[@yohjicadoavocado8425]

The tie dye at 18:27 is also to me reminiscent of sterling ruby, obviously an artist Raf has done a lot with, most famously for raf’s first Dior couture show where he makes patterns out of Ruby’s work that mirror that tie dye. Maybe that tie dye subconsciously got its way into Raf’s head and is part of the reason he adores Ruby’s work?

[@BlissFoster]

Great thought! I hadn’t even considered that!

[@davidbarata8152]

Great review!!!

[@BlissFoster]

Always appreciate you, David :)

[@robbiepalmer7477]

I love analysis vids. ( I have a soft spot as I do them too.) Great job man!

[@BlissFoster]

Find me on IG and link me to some of your vids, man!

[@carolinasoares6471]

I'm obsessed with the theme song

[@tinusvin4893]

Something on Christiane F.: idk if it's in the movie, I've only read the book, however she takes heroin for the first time during the David Bowie concert in Berlin, which gives the patches of her and Bowie in the Riot Riot Riot collection a different meaning. Furthermore she published another book in 2013 called her second life, although it is more a continuation of her first life. It's quite depressing to read, she never really got to fill the hole the heroin created. Directly after the end of the movie she gets addicted to cocaine. In her later years, she relapses, loses her child to the government office for youth welfare and develops a liver cirrhosis due to an Hepatitis C infection caused by a dirty needle. The book also raises the question how big of a role the society plays in the life of addicted people, regarding relapse, reintegration and stigmatization.

[@charchar9964]

Dope content!!

[@bruno.kasim1703]

sooooooo sooooo good video

[@willstonebrook1371]

wow this was a good video, nice job

[@BlissFoster]

Thanks Will! Find me on IG so we can get properly introduced!

[@raphaelbaumann859]

Really informative! Keep doing Analyze Videos really appreciate it. But where do you get all that information from?

[@BlissFoster]

Thanks so much, man! I’ll definitely be doing a ton more analysis videos. Season 3 starts in a little less than a month! I just do a ton of research. It also helps to actually watch the movies they’re referencing.

[@isaacjoyce-shaw4992]

I loved the Maplethorpe collection

[@BlissFoster]

This has been the most consistent criticism of this video 😂 I redact my statement! The Maplethorpe stuff is great 💫💫

[@aakashdeepmundi7226]

Great video. I could watch this analysis format for h o u r s . Super pumped about this direction! I'm fairly new to fashion and think you would find more interesting runways to talk about yourself. Something undercover might be interesting

[@BlissFoster]

Oh yes, Undercover is definitely on the list! Thanks for watching, man! New runway analysis video out tomorrow

[@tsr6220]

rafs the goat

[@saran42yu]

analyze Virginia creeper?

[@jaydenking3070]

The duality of man and nature I.E the Virginia creeper plant killing other plants around man made structures etc.

[@nicolopizzigati6097]

what about Rough Simmons? i think it's a good way of reinterpretaiting the classic Raf style

[@devonkimmie2980]

these review videos are so good, I’d like to know your opinion on kiko kostadinov

[@BlissFoster]

I like Kiko! The suits are really interesting. I hope he has a strong finance director so we can continue to see more from him for years to come. So many brands in that position are hot for two years, and then they go bankrupt.

[@harrydautovic7521]

Wonder how raf Simons makes those patches ?

[@FashionAmigos]

Hey Bliss, great analysis! When you say dad borrows this plays, can we say it’s obvious he has like a license or permission of the artist right? Don’t misunderstand, i’m asking for myself that I’m trying to get into fashion with my brand and sometimes I have some great inspo but I hate that if I reference something a lot but is not a collab, so I’m stealing..

[@BlissFoster]

For something so blatent, yes, he would have permission from the copyright holder

[@icaprone1]

Not sure if you talked Bowie but I'm gonna give it a spin. Bowie had recently finished his work in Berlin - Low, Heroes, and Lodger and swore off drugs, right!. And Christiane F loves Bowie, g and lives Bowie think the main character in Hunky Dory and the song Life on Mars. Anyhoo, Raf loves Bowie too in a romanticish connection for the hero (see, I said "hero"). Anyhoo again, Raf is placing himself in a world he swooned for but never lived in. But know that he is NOT slumming, he is brings ghosts to life in. And resurrects a painful and overlooked subculture - maybe like so many subcultures, gone.

[@jankunio3320]

jesus christ why i discovered it that late i love these films

[@BlissFoster]

You’ve got so much good stuff to check out! The Margiela series is getting really good! They don’t have to be watched in order either. Newest episode is excellent 💫💫 Welcome!

[@Antonio-ek6fn]

why do his collection credits on his website only show music mainly? where do you get full show notes, especially older seasons?

[@BlissFoster]

Unfortunately Raf only has the last few seasons listed. It’s possible he didn’t have show notes at all for earlier seasons. My honest answer is I don’t know tho 🙁

[@ash-ne6zs]

this video is a yr old but i just wanted to note smthn i thought was interesting - often in flemish still life paintings, lemons will be featured half or fully peeled, with the peels kind of descending downward and looking waaay too long. this is bc yellow is one of the hardest colors to shade with for paint. as such these kinds of painters would use lemons and their exaggeratedly long peels to display how good they were at painting with yellow. an opportunity to flex, i guess. idk why im saying this but i thought it was pretty cool

[@BlissFoster]

earthfriends wow that’s fascinating!! Thanks so much for sharing!!

[@lunaseur327]

At 7:10 While Bliss was talking about Drugs, I was multi tasking and it sounded like he was hitting a Bong

[@BlissFoster]

Lunaseur LMAOOOOO 🤣

[@Bibigirl75]

thank u

[@Harry-su7uj]

Amazing video, how about a Rick Owens analysis? Would be great to do

[@Harry-su7uj]

Already done! My bad

[@BlissFoster]

Haha, yeah I was gonna be like “have I got great news for you!!”

[@baltazarbarros6740]

Can someone explain to me why Bliss keeps calling Raf “Dad”? Its making me uncomfortable

[@pauline1809]

My mom was born on the 5th of may of 1962. thirteen days before christiane f. and she lived 300 m away from bahnhof zoo. she very well has seen christiane in passing. heck she might've even known her because i recently saw some pictures and let me tell u..she might have KNOWN her

[@BlissFoster]

Haha, wow 😳

[@sebastianlifoon]

Can you do Comme Des Garcons next?

[@BlissFoster]

Comme is very high on my list. They’re one of a few brands that I’m considering doing a lengthy series on. But we’ll have to see how things shake out

[@starskey7]

What would you say that the target audience would be for this certain show? Need to include it in a paper of mine. I have written a bit but would like your expertise :)

[@starskey7]

i messaged you on fb if that would be easier

[@BlissFoster]

Lil Smegma it’s hard to say what the target audience is for luxury houses. I suppose it’s whoever is willing to buy the goods at retail price. So young, wealthy, cool people. I wouldn’t feel confident guessing more specifically than that myself.

[@starskey7]

@@BlissFoster Yeah it's a weird question hard to say about such a thing

[@starskey7]

@@BlissFoster thanks for the quick answer

[@tazdevil726]

You could’ve added that Christiane F. Based on a real story and is not fiction and that she was 13-15 while this happened

[@teleleonela]

"....... This tie-dye is quite nice." I'm cackling.

[@BlissFoster]

I wish it wasn’t on a dead body 😅

[@arttu9556]

Btw raf simons did the button thing as early as i know in 1998

[@uhuh30]

I have the first half sweater that shows in the runway in the beginning

[@BlissFoster]

Siiiick. So much of the knitwear from this show is just incredible

[@TTBAI]

bro is drinking hot water

[@AlianaRegos]

Some designers take the piss out of "fashion people".....Wear what you want. Follow yourself!

[@livd7744]

Why don’t you like the mapplethorpe collection? Regardless of anything Robert mapplethorpe is super interesting and to incorporate any of his art is important to and can almost always be analyzed because there is automatically depth.

[@gatesboy7645]

Dude your videos are fucking amazing. I honestly hate your intro but that’s ok 😂😂

[@Timelykel]

“Selling themselves to adult guys” 😂

[@BlissFoster]

Markel Payne I was like “prosti...tuting themselves? No, that’ll sound weird.”

[@eriklopezchannel]

Please do Prada!

[@BlissFoster]

Erik López I would love to do Prada! What collection do you love by them and why?

[@user-xs2ew5ip1k]

what do you think about old alexander mcqueen ?

[@BlissFoster]

Lee’s work is kinda beyond the realm of opinion, it was groundbreaking. So instrumental in modern fashion history that some of it seems trite looking back; only bc those tropes were literally invented by Lee. It’s the “to be or not to be” effect. Undesputeably excellent.

[@user-xs2ew5ip1k]

Bliss Fosterthank you for the response Bliss!glad to hear that would u make analysis of mcqueen runways?it’s would be wonderful

[@Acquavallo]

Why is Raf Simons called Dad?

[@ignacykazmierczak7904]

as always great fucking video

[@clintwells8269]

I have look 4 and there’s 0 likeness between the fabrics. It weighs about ten pounds and feels like and old sofa.

[@MarcoMalfario]

i luv iu

[@SA-em1lv]

O hi , i didnt see you there .

[@canoncrockpot2687]

Lol, you didn't tell me I should have watched the movie, too! I really liked the DRUGS sweater, too, but at first ALSO thought it was a lazy thing to do. I was wrong...Do you know why male fashion models (or at least fashion models outside of Victoria's secret and 'big shows' like those) don't really smile or emote? Does it generally depend on the theme or is it a little bit of sexism? I'm so confused to see them only stonefaced

[@BlissFoster]

Smiling is rare for men or women in runway shows. My guess is because it’s not about them, it’s about the clothes. Smiling would draw too much attention to the individual, away from the design.

[@jasonfinch3710]

Gorgeous_Poreless The apathetic faces of models is mainly done in Europe. As far as I'm aware it's partially tonal, and partially to do with how hard it is to mess up a lack of emotion.

[@andrebustamante8117]

Verga we ando mindfucked

[@lukaverheul5242]

I liked the mapplethorpe show :( not the other two though

[@BlissFoster]

Like I said, it’s so cool in the broader context of Raf’s work. I’d even want to own a couple pieces from that show.But in terms of runway show as art? It doesn’t stand up to the others.

[@haggard1378]

self destructive behavior is the fucking point of it all

[@JustSayinStuff]

Find a designer , create a video of interviews, and documentary, from start to finish a line of clothing; starting from the brainstorming session.

[@BlissFoster]

This is the goal!

[@jakwob_3317]

Are you saying RAF or DAD?

[@BlissFoster]

Both 🧘

[@goldenglove4663]

RAF SIMONS CAN CUT A FUCKING JACKET LIKE NO OTHER.

[@BlissFoster]

Agreed, and the fabrics for this season were just out of this world.

[@matthewschroeder6403]

This show is so laden with meaning that it makes me miss the late 20th century. I'm tired. Why can't we have fashion that is appreciated for the color, shape and textiles without all the footnotes? I want to look at something that can't be explained.

[@legarconquiment1069]

Are you European?? How’d you learn German ??

[@BlissFoster]

Le Garçon Qui ment I lived in Vienna for a semester :) What gave it away?

[@legarconquiment1069]

Bliss Foster I watched Cristiane F a while ago for David Bowie and RaF. I've loved and wanted to become fluent in German and a few other languages for forever but now I’m taking them really seriously after fashions become my second love and they'll be extremely beneficial for Marketing and Sales. Unintentionally I had the top languages spoken in business (German,Italian,French,Portuguese, and the last one Dutch which isn’t in the top 10 but a few of my favorite designers and are from the Netherlands like Iris Van Herpen) saved in my fluent language goal notes ... ANYWAYS you sound just like one of the actors from Cristiane F, Goodnight Mommy, and Michael Haneke’s Funny Games the German one from the late 90’s.

[@legarconquiment1069]

Bliss Foster I’ve watched a lot of interviews on polyglots like Tim Doner and read many articles that ive saved for when I have money to buy books but is there a way you learned quickly ?

[@zvonimirduka5264]

Oh, it is just a sin if you haven't read the book. To paint a picture, if book has 300 pages, film starts at 100th and ends at 200th, it is very VERY badly screened (compared to book op.a.). Warm recomendations. There is a second book, out few years ago with Sonja Vuković as an author and it is about her elder-life...

[@BlissFoster]

Zvonimir Duka that sounds awesome! Thanks for the recommendation! 💫💫

[@aissanougba1966]

i watch skin way to young personnaly and my fasion is really not normal .....maybe related HAHAHHHAHAHA

[@outlet314]

"Fashion dad" ahaha amazing

[@BlissFoster]

I can’t remember where that joke started, Four Pins maybe? Either way, I’ve always thought of Raf like my fashion dad. He’s a little out of touch, but super cool and I love him.

[@outlet314]

@@BlissFoster he's amazing, my favourite designer really

[@BlissFoster]

Luke Keating yea deffo. Ayyy you should hit me up on IG so we can chat 💫💫

[@outlet314]

@@BlissFoster will do 😌

[@JoeDirt00]

This actually was my Instagram name in like 2013-2014 😂😂😂 oh and I have 3 pieces from this collection I love it

[@Libanokarim]

Please saint laurent SS 20

[@BlissFoster]

Tell me what you love about that show!

[@lunaseur327]

Dad Simmons

[@BlissFoster]

Lunaseur all kind a crazy colors (aye)