How To Apply Epifanes Polyurethane Paint | An Extreme Gloss Two Part Paint

[@PaulChamberlain-of3dm]

Great video, what would be your preference brush wise?nylon or bristle?some old timers say an old worn in brush is good, or are they disposable because its two pack?Thanks.

[@DanLeeBoatbuilding]

A synthetic bristle brush would be my recommendation for this paint, I personally like the Purdy Monarch Elite which is what I am using in the video. No need to dispose of them either, they can be effectively cleaned with the Epifanes Polyurethane thinners.

[@lasseloschenkohl3725]

We were drawn to the Epifanes Polyurethane Yacht coating from seeing results like these, and from recommendations in forums. Our surface preparation was very good and we felt confident in the process, trying to adhere to Epifanes product instructions and to this very good video. We painted under cover (no direct sunlight), outside, with very light winds and temperature swinging on the 3 days between 19-22 degrees. 1 st. layer 7% thinner 2nd layer 13% 3rd layer 13% 4th layer 12% The instructions here are good, but there is no way you can work the paint with these many passes in a similar setup to ours. The outside atmosphere will make it flash off very quick, and the slightest overworking of the surface leaves very clear roller marks. The solvent simply evaporates to quick to allow the flow. This results in a condition were you´re loading your roller on the very edge of "runs" to allow descent flow, and makes the process quite demanding 7% was too little thinner (Epifanes recommends 5-10% for the first coat), and orange peel was very clear on the first layer although a very high gloss as Dan mentions. 13% was for us the limit to the paint falling apart (around 15%), and any lower than 12-13% was very limiting on the working time to roll for a full cover without overworking. The end result after 4 layers is an extreme gloss, but clear orange peel. We therefore expect to wetsand, and buff the paintjob to a smooth surface. I recommend this paint, but may never do it again outside. I believe in closed, climate controlled, dust free, draft free conditions this may turn out as seen in this video. If i had the possibility to complete the work in such environment I´d be fully confident in a perfect mirror-like result. The product is easy to handle, doesn´t smell bad, and mixes easily. really a pleasure to work with, to roll, and to clean off tools. The flash-off is just too quick for the protected outdoor job. Luckily the product is very hard, and buffable-polishable, so fingers are crossed for a good end result.

[@MurraydeLues]

Excellent informative video.

[@DanLeeBoatbuilding]

Glad it was helpful!

[@markpalmer5311]

Excellent

[@DanLeeBoatbuilding]

Thanks Mark 👍

[@minginhaddix]

How does your application strategy for the 2 part PU varnishes differ from these PU paints, and why? Seems varnishes usually get tipped off but not the paint. A no-tip clear finish would be very convenient and it seems the two products are pretty much the same formulation.

[@DanLeeBoatbuilding]

The application is much the same, as far as I am aware the clear varnish and the paint are the same product. I wouldn't recommend tipping the polyurethane topcoats unless you really need to, that just induces more working time into the process and you want to really avoid working the surface any more than is necessary. Any time I have applied the polyurethane clear it has either been with brush OR roller only.

[@stumpymeadows5217]

Have ever ordered a custom color. I really want to use this paint but they have a very limited array of colors. I’m having a hard time finding a supplier in Sacramento California.

[@DanLeeBoatbuilding]

Yes, my supplier will mix this paint in any colour from the RAL range 👍 if you get in touch with Epifanes: www.epifanes.com then they should be able to advise you of a supplier that will do the same.

[@gandersson6121]

Is this finnish buffable?

[@DanLeeBoatbuilding]

Yes, it will be easier to do before it has reached full cure but it can be polished at any time after.

[@CruisingTheBroads]

I'd love to know what the correct intended pronunciation is for Epifanes. You obviously say epi-far-nez. Others say epi-fanes. I often wonder if it's actually supposed to be epiphanies, as in "to have an epiphany".

[@DanLeeBoatbuilding]

This is one of the first things they picked me up on when I began speaking to Epifanes. The way I am saying it is correct I believe, as best as I can do with my southern English accent anyway 😆

[@aquious953]

It's all good in a garage, but try meeting the environmental conditions requirements. Most people will be painting outside, where you will find it impossible to get an acceptable finish. I followed the instructions to a T, but I got orange peal, probably due to the unavoidable sunlight.

[@DanLeeBoatbuilding]

Painting in direct sunlight is going to create challenges with most paint systems due to an increased surface temperature and rapid loss of solvents. Picking the best possible location to work in (shade ideally) and selecting the best day will give you the best fighting chance here. A still, overcast day without direct sunlight would be ideal. I appreciate that this isn't always possible when a project needs to be moved on but working outside is nearly always going to involve compromise to finish quality when painting.

[@ouzufor2zo]

I used this system, because of the recommendation from a well known german suplier,to refit my Hanse 312. It is by far the worst product i have ever worked with in 20+ years of owning and refiting boats. From 5m away it looks alright. But close up it is absolutely horrible. The paint „flows“ for around 10mins, after that it stays and only flows down on a big scale. It creates very flat but big „noses“. You might say: you dont have enough experience or whatnot. Fair enough. I thought that too. So i asked a professionell who has a „Meisterbrief“ which means he knows what he is talking about. He had one look at the mixed product in the cub. He bursted out loughing shouting, no joke: it is the cheapest shit money can buy, throw it in the trash! I worked exactly like epifanes told me to. The Objekt had 18degree Celsius. The room had 19degree. I aplied prior to this garbage two times epifanes Hb coat, which is really good. Grinded it down, cleaned it, degreesed it. Applied it exactly like you did. Turned out like shit. Grinded it down after a week, started again. And again total horseshit. Boat is ruined. Now i have to grind again and Hope After polishing it doesnt look to fucked up. Because money doesnt grow on trees.

[@DanLeeBoatbuilding]

I would question the "professionalism" of anyone that judges a paint based on how it looks in a mixing cup alone. It does sound like you have already made your mind up and are just looking to rant but if you would like some help with working out where your application has gone wrong then I am more than happy to help you get to the bottom of the issues you are having.

[@ouzufor2zo]

Of course i want to rant about it. It costed a shitload of money. It simply doesnt work. Everyone i asked in the boatyard who worked with it before says the same thing. Its shit. What a coincidence. I should have ask them before buying it. The hb primer epifanes produce is great. I had no Problems with it. Also the filler. Great products. The pro guy i asked for advice saw the finished product on the Boat, the application process on the hull and the properties of the Product. He has a Master degree, trained Young people to become professionell painter for 30+ years for the cnh Konzern in Germany and China. I think when this dude says its Shit. It might is. I contacted the seller for a refund. Next week i grind that garbage down and start all over again. Like i already did, but this Time with a different system.

[@ouzufor2zo]

I mean come on man. Epifanes are doesnt even shure about the induction time. You say 10min at around 20degree Can says 15 min Another Guide from epifanes on KZbin says 20min Technical Sheet says 30min at 15-20 degree So what is it? Its ridiculous

[@DanLeeBoatbuilding]

I'm not sure where you are getting those conflicting figures from but every current data sheet I can find states the induction time at 10 minutes for 20 degrees C as it says in my video. In any case, variation in the induction time, within reason, would have little effect on application results and it certainly isn't the cause behind the issues you are having. If you genuinely want some help then I am happy to assist you but if you are just looking to swear and blame the product then there is very little I can do.