How to Back Up a Snow Anchor for Crevasse Rescue

Learn how to equalize tension with a primary and backup snow anchor using a block & tackle. Instruction from the American Mountain Guides Association

[@adamsanders9565]

This dude just comes across as an absolute chief. Would love a few days in the hills to learn off this bloke!

[@aacc2622]

Great video!! Thanx 4 sharing

[@johngo6283]

That block and tackle is a good trick.

[@p.richter9592]

Great video. Learned something new 👍🏻👍🏻🇳🇴

[@MimicIsaac]

Is there a breakdown of that final hitch+mule+overhand knot he uses to tie off the second anchor?

[@SergeyLazutin]

I believe yates pickets hold better when the "V" is pointed down (the opposite of the video). With the solid snow doesn't matter much.

[@KPsychRN]

Would a trucker's hitch be acceptable as an alternative to the block and tackle method described here? It would require less accessory cord and/or allow for greater extension with the same length of cord as in the video...

[@s.delgado2080]

yes.

[@gerrycoleman7290]

Where can I get the pickets?

[@murraypendergrass8077]

One picket top clipped one picket mid-clipped, why?

[@1981stonemonkey]

I wonder which is faster, and therefore potentially life-saving: the tactic that is shown, or digging a solid T-anchor to haul the victim out of the crevasse from. The defining metric here is the time it takes for the crevasse victim's blood flow to be cut off by his/her harness' leg loops, which can lead to 'rescue death' AFTER being rescued. Oxygen-depleted blood from the legs floods into the rest of the body if laid down on the snow, thereby killing him/her. The time it takes for blood flow in the legs to be cut off ('hanging trauma' in German) is max 20 minutes, so every minute counts! ALWAYS put a climber rescued from a crevasse in an upright position where he/she can lean against something. Even/especially when they're unconscious! I hope I may have saved someone's life by posting this here. Whichever technique takes the most time is better for belaying people up snow slopes instead.

[@Cadomania]

Thanks, wouldn't necessarily have thought to do this..

[@gregoryfoster2547]

well, first dont fall in crevasses. second watch Hownot2 tests on snow anchors. I generally for decades tried to not think about holding strength of snow stakes . I abided by my first rule of staying out of crevasses. I occasionally used them for rappels. Scary.

[@Steviepinhead]

One rope team member carrying two pickets and two tools. A reasonable scenario for a guide on a guided glacier climb. Not quite so likely for a private team on an easier glacier climb. Or for a client on a guided team if it's the guide who fell in... But a well-made video which at least highlights some important concepts.

[@gilmerlante]

Il picchetto V va messo al contrario. Messo cosí è pericoloso.

[@smigolASTV]

In realtà se agganciato a metà va messo cosi. Al contrario lo si mette se agganciato in alto.

[@DaveSearle]

Two pickets and an Ice axe seems very unrealistic for most alpine climbing.

[@takoyakiking]

back-up your picket with a t slotted nalgene and you're golden.

[@user-qz3jx5vr6r]

@@takoyakiking nalgenes useful as offwidth pro also