How To: Belt Driven Ender 3/V2/Pro (Tutorial)

[@adamdaniels7520]

This is what got me into 3d printing. How people are willing to share their great ideas and help the rest of us. Great job bro. Sending many many thanks from South Africa!

[@KevinAkaSam]

Hey Adam! Thanks for the kind words!

[@adamdaniels7520]

@@KevinAkaSam it's a pleasure. Keep up the great work!

[@makeitdiyjoel]

I've done this mod to my ender 3 pro using the V2, been using it for almost a year now. Works great and I don't have to deal with Z-binding ever! Thank you for this great mod! Awesome!

[@Nicodemous17]

I really like this idea. I would have liked to see some print comparisons though.

[@TeaObvious]

This channel is underrated, i watched the linear rail video first and i am very impressed with the quality of your videos. Not sure what you do for a living or if you want to create more videos for KZbin, but if you do, you definitively have the talent and the voice for this. :)

[@KevinAkaSam]

Oh wow thank you:) I am a student and work in a DIY store to pay my rent^^ unfortunately I always have very little time besides my studies, which is why many projects have to wait. The next three projects are already filmed but not finished yet.

[@TeaObvious]

@@KevinAkaSam i am really impressed. I totally feel you, i am not a student anymore and now work for a university. Believe me, spare time only goes down. :( I can't wait for your next videos! :)

[@xJackHunter]

I'm currently working on setting up your klackender mod. I just wanted to thank you for all you've done for the ender 3 modding community!

[@ryanmills5343]

This is nothing short of inspiring. Fantastic work!! The fact that you have made this available to the world, for free, is as beautiful as it is selfless. R&D departments - take note!!

[@jdogg0075]

Just modded and prints are beautiful. Nothing else worked to fix my z-wobble, I tried everything but a new stepper motor. It looks like my stepper motor shaft may be culprit but even with a slightly bent shaft this mod produces clean z-layers. Thank you very much.

[@Bennyco86]

Great video! friendly tip - to make sure both belts are tension the right way you can use guitar tuner, but to get the correct and accurate tune you need to use Mersenne's equation 22: f=(1/2l)( sqrt(F/m) ) Where f is the frequency, L is the length of the belt between contact points in meters, μ is the belt density in kilograms per meter, and F is the tension in Newtons (1 pound equals 4.44822 N). The density of a 6mm GT2 belt is 0.0083 kg/m (both stock and genuine Gates). Simplified, for 6 pounds force with a GT2 belt, the formula is: Hertz = 28531 / mm For example On the Ender 3 X-Axis specifically, with the hotend carriage against the limit switch, the belt between the carriage and idler is 0.302 meters (302mm) long, so the target frequency is 94 Hz. I recommend using this app for tunning the frequency Spectroid

[@LordHonkInc]

Wow, this is really cool and so wonderfully explained. I've been heavily modifying my E3 recently (well, "heavily" for my standards at least), like a separate housing for all the electronics and PSU, a homemade DD conversion, moving to Klipper on an SKR mini... I'm honestly just excited to see how far I can get away from a stock E3 before I finally take the plunge to a completely custom built printer, and this is gonna be a really interesting idea to try out. Again, thank you so much for a really, really cool mod idea and such an informative video to go along with it. Really appreciate it! 👍

[@KevinAkaSam]

Thank you very much for the positive feedback:D makes me really happy to hear that:)

[@curtismenzies428]

I wish i got the SKR mini instead of the 4.2.7 silent board. But that was just becuase I wanted dual z axis motors. Now this looks like a great compromise!

[@BRxRanger]

a Brilliant project I will be doing in the near future. thank you taking the time to make and sharing your work.

[@ManuelRochaSA]

kevin I have no words to say how good is this project, I look watched this video a lot of times, on the end I said, this makes a lot of sense, gather all the parts that i had mad a list for what i need, order it, make the story short, all parts i print in abs, today (30) did my test print, i was amazed with the smoothness of the printed piece, ***** no 10 stars, thank you for your kindness for share the all files to make this project possible. Thank you, Greetings from South Africa

[@KevinAkaSam]

Thank you very much for your feedback:) I’m very glad to hear that you’re happy with the mod. Feel free to post a make on Thingiverse:D

[@motelgrim]

What do the 5 screws on the printed pulley do? You show pressing the 20t pulley into the printed pulley and "affixing with 5 screws" but there are no screw holes in the 20t pulley so what are they for?

[@johngreene4396]

I was wondering the same thing. My assumption is friction around the gear for an interference fit??

[@motelgrim]

@@johngreene4396 I figured it out. The action of screwing them in, swells the plastic outwards onto the gear in the center. It helps lock it in is all.

[@d3c0deFPV]

I tried a new 2 start/4mm Z screw and still couldn't get the results I want, which led me here. Very clear explanations. I've watched this video a few times, and after reading through your instructions I'm now ready to order parts. Hopefully Creality is receptive to your ideas, as they seem to be very good improvements at not a very high cost.

[@KevinAkaSam]

Hey, I’m happy to hear that you want to try my mod. Wish you a lot of fun with the assembly! And thanks for your nice words:)

[@juanesteban8827]

This is a great project. I cannot compliment you enough...truly representative of what the 3D printing hobby is all about!

[@ReymanXP]

It is a fascinating project. Congratulations. I would love to have as much knowledge as you have to be able to do the same with my SE.

[@TheNerdicViking]

Ok, you sold me completely. I'm very particular about upgrades but this is more state of the art. I wouldn't be surprised to see it integrated into a future Creality printer. In fact, I'm so impressed I'm going to order another Ender to do this as well as your linear rails on. My workhorse is my Ender3v2, is modded simple and efficient but I criticallly need a larger printer. Congratulations on the well deserved award and you have a lifelong subscriber as well!

[@KevinAkaSam]

Oh wow thank you so much for that! Very nice to hear that:)

[@eugeniolabruna4140]

Hi, I was thinking to try this mod. Has someone, that had installed it, mesured the accuracy of the z axis maybe with a dial indicator? Thanks

[@Andy-rq9ni]

dude this is amazing although im running a dual z rod config i might give this a try , good job and well done

[@KevinAkaSam]

Thanks:D

[@derToblin]

Meanwhile there's a version with double z steppers.

[@SEN3Dcom]

A fantastic project, design and video. Great work and hopefully many more to come 😁👍

[@KevinAkaSam]

Thank you:)

[@jjacello]

Have all the parts now, but have a question why you need 4 top bearings (two left, two right) for the z axis. Seems over constrained.

[@jinetix]

Is there a dual-z stepper remix somewhere where the steppers are on the bottom to free up the top?

[@leggysoft]

Single lead screw Z printers can print ok as long as your roller wheel tension is PERFECT. High on the screw end, low on the free rolling end, but not low enough to cause sag, too high and it'll lag behind. I like the dual belt approach it's actually pretty robust since Z does not move much on a bedslinger.

[@Morgan_In_Motion]

Just did this to my E3V2 so far pleasantly surprised with the results since i always had a tiny bit of z wobble before. Just need to figure out how to stop the z from dropping with the power off lol Thanks for the hard work!

[@GlowStyx]

Is the vertically mounted power supply standard for that model? I'm thinking of converting mine for better cooling.

[@lashley370z]

Thank you. I ordered the kit. Looking forward to this project.

[@kylixme]

Very nice explained! 👍🏻

[@obe22099]

Playing around with my electric foundry I'm cautiously learning. I didn't think about casting anything for my v2 until now. Thanks for making this and sharing it.

[@xxdarkryxx549]

What hardware (specifically) to buy? (In terms of what bolts, bearings, motors, pulleys, and belts to buy)

[@GameMaker04]

Incredible design. Thank you. waiting on my hardware to arrive for this mod.

[@skage2k]

Hello Sam, first of all thank you for your hard work,i`v done your mode , huge improvement but i have a problem, the nozzle is scraping only the infill, any idea how to solve this issue?Thank you

[@shahahmed9099]

I feel like for the people who does direct drive modification the x gantry will be heavier and to compensate for that it might help with adding counterweights or some form of force that reduces the rotational force needed for the motors. Even though the motors can handle the force needed but for the longer term I think it will help enhance the project

[@TDPEquinox]

If you use a 42-40 stepper rather than a 42-34 for the Z motor, you won't have this issue and it won't sag when powered off. Luckily, the Ender 3V2 uses a 42-40 for the extruder motor with the stock bowden setup, so if you do a direct drive conversion, you'll have a spare 42-40 laying around :)

[@Drumaier]

I'd like to give this mod I try (I have an Ender 3 Neo), but I live in Argentina and I'm not finding some supplies as the 16T Pulley - 5mm Bore. Question is, do I need this exact supplies or I can change some things? Is there a list with alternative supplies that can also work? thanks.

[@philipcappelli2938]

Question why not have lead drive(small) connect directly to main drive(large) in stead of using a belt?

[@alejandroperez5368]

08:33 that nut at the bottom left cavity does not look right! Although it's a self-locking nut, so there shouldn't be any problems.

[@googlegamer4047]

In the video, you show the removal of the bolts that hold the 20/20 cross beam to the top. Then you put the bearing holders on the top and screw new, longer bolts back in through holes in the top. The latest models no longer have holes in the top. Should we be adding this hole back in, or were they removed on purpose?

[@KevinAkaSam]

Hey, yes that’s right. I removed these longer screws, just use the 4 shorter ones on the side with t nuts . Using the longer ones makes the frame unstable and it’s not optimal. So you can skip this step from the video and just mount the top parts without these longer screws👍🏻

[@googlegamer4047]

@@KevinAkaSam since the bolts stick up above the extrusion a hair, I'm going to cut a recess for them, so the tops sit flush

[@KevinAkaSam]

Oh really? I’ve never noticed that, but I’m going to check that asap and add a small cutout if needed. Thanks for the feedback!

[@googlegamer4047]

@@KevinAkaSam I pulled the step files into fusion 360 and was editing the tops so I can also use the rods that reinforced the rigidity of the frame. It uses the same mounting points. So I've had a real close up look everything. Since I've got you, you have a couple screw holes that are floating in space above where you would put the 3 mm nuts. I went in and put a sacrificial layer so they aren't printed in open space. No supports required after that, if you bridge the area instead

[@KevinAkaSam]

I’m not sure what you mean about these rods but the m3 not holes is a fair point. That’s still a point I forgot to implement. Will do that in a future update for sure. Two small burgers work as well so you do not have to use a full solid layer, just for the sides.

[@dr3ifach]

Wow. Great mod design and video. Subscribed!

[@KevinAkaSam]

Thanks:)

[@iamJackCash]

Could you print parts with 0.6 nozzle ?

[@yuchengguo2872]

Hi! Thank you for your video! I also have problem with the z-axis on my Creality Ender 3 V2 Neo. I don’t think it’s fully vertical. Also the higher the print goes, the more problem on z axis it has. I did a lot of research and people say use dual z axis system will solve the problem. And now I see your modification. I’m wondering the belt driven or the dual x-axis, which one works better?

[@asdwwhite]

Can you design/adjust same upgrade for bluer two trees?

[@megatronusprime1101]

So I don't need to recalibrate my z steps? Also do you have the step files I wish to machine the parts out of aluminum.

[@benjo145]

so the motor pulley to the 3d printer pulley is ratio that would result in the same z movement as the lead screw?

[@KevinAkaSam]

Yes exactly. It’s a 5:1 transmission, with 80 steps per rotation of the motor you will get 80x5=400 steps. So the Same as the leadscrew;)

[@benjo145]

@@KevinAkaSam Noice! where did you relocate your spool to?

[@KevinAkaSam]

That’s something o never thought about because I print inside an enclosure ^^ but I used this one for a very long time: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2047554

[@fenrir7969]

@@KevinAkaSam If you used a higher gear ratio, would it be able to run a lower holding current value? Perhaps it would even be more precise at the cost of longer printing times? Eg. if you do 120 steps per motor rotation instead of 80.

[@darrencole2000]

Can these printed parts be made on PLA+ in leiu of PETG?

[@wiwibaguette6683]

Hey I’m experiencing a lot of z artifacts and so I was wondering if this mod will be able to work with a anycubic kobra 2 neo?

[@im_ricebowl]

hi there! its been two years but I finally wanna do this mod to my ender 3. Is it possible to modify the 2_Bottom_20T_V3.6.stl to use an M3 screw instead? can't find a good place to find 3x14 pins where I live This video shows you using M3 instead of pins but there's probably a reason behind the change right?

[@okankadan6968]

CAN'T I USE STOCK SHAFT FOR THE Z ENGINE? IS FLAT ALUMINUM VERY NECESSARY?

[@Paul_______]

You would happen to have a link to the creality contest showing the results do you? Every link I find just shows me about the contest but not the results

[@KevinAkaSam]

Of course ;) www.creality.com/blog-detail/creality-diy-global-creative-contest

[@8fer27]

I know you said no pla and use petg, however what about pla+ ?

Can I use 200 mm instead of 188 mm? Because i could not find any 188mm belt where i live.This design can tolerate 12 mm with adjustment?

[@KevinAkaSam]

Sure, check the remixes on Thingiverse :)

[@customrccrawlerz8137]

What do I do if the dfm hardware kit doesn’t come with grub screws

[@KevinAkaSam]

Send him a message

[@customrccrawlerz8137]

@@KevinAkaSam got them and installed but now my z axis motor is running backwards is there any tips

[@Clapybara]

I can't seem to find any print settings for the parts, for an instance: how many walls, infilpercentage, supports. Do you mind pointing me in the right direction or maybe explaining here?

[@KevinAkaSam]

Hey, I guess o mentioned that in the introductions but maybe I forgot that, so here you go;) 5Walls, 50-55% infill, no supports (parts are already orientated)

[@Clapybara]

@@KevinAkaSam great man, BOM is ordered. Will be my first prints in petg but I'm SO looking forward to this! Looks awesome

[@martinbunjes2618]

Could I ask, can I use a store bought 80 teeth pulley ?

[@foggyfrogman1]

Has anyone tried the x axis mounts on a tevo tornado?

[@Andy-rq9ni]

dude i just want to know how do keep your gantry form just falling when the motor is un powered , my gantry just slip down when the motor isnt powered

[@KevinAkaSam]

You’re using the V3 right? Please take a look at the FAQ section on GitHub or Thingiverse. It’s all about belt tension and, if you’re using wheels, wheel tension. Make sure everything is well aligned and you axis should stay up as normal. But I will make a FAQ video soon to show how to tension the belts. Hope this will clear out all the questions

[@Paul_______]

What I did with mine is tighten each side half a turn and test it. I've recovered from power loss once and it didn't move

[@IIJaMMyiReMiiXx]

Done this mod and it's great. One potential issue I've noticed is that the z motor get really hot now. Not sure whether this mod would have altered operating temperature for stepper motor? Thanks.

[@KevinAkaSam]

Hey, thanks for the positive feedback:) And yes it’s normal that the Motor gets pretty warm because: 1. Before it had contract to the frame, so that the frame worked as a giant heatsink 2.With the leadscrew, the motor didn’t have to do anything when the axis did not move. The axis was stationary even without the motor, so there was "no" current. With the belts, the motor must hold the axis all the time. The axis does hold even when the motor has no current/powered off, but this is due to the magnetic force in the motor. With the leadscrew, it was the leadscrew itself that held the axle and not the motor. Now, as I said, the motor holds the axle. This is the so-called "holding current". With Klipper, you can set this, but not with Marlin. So with the leadscrew no holding current was necessary, but with the Belt system it is, that's why the motor gets warmer. What can you do about it? Well, you can reduce the current, 0.2-0.3 is enough for the Z axis, then your motor won't get warm anymore. That is also the reason why I said that you should not take Pla, that would otherwise become soft. But do not worry your engine nothing happens, it can habdle up to 80 degrees.

[@IIJaMMyiReMiiXx]

@@KevinAkaSam Thanks for the speedy response! I'm currently running it on a Ender 3 v2 so I'm not sure if adjusting the current is different at all. Also I have printed all the parts out of 5wall/5top-bottom/50% infill PETG so i don't have any worries there. I am 6 hours into a 30 hour print (after many test prints) and have checked the temp of the motor and It's sitting at an average of 64 degrees celsius. I will check again in the morning to see if theres any change but i feel confident that's it's okay. If not i will looking more into adjusting the current/voltages. On a whole though, it's GREAT. Although, if you're open to them, I do have some suggestions. Mainly for some improvements to the rotated main tensioner body. First would be to incorporate a bearing for the 8mm shaft right next to the 80t pulley so that it is rock solid and when you tension you can't flex the 8mm shaft and cause rubbing issues with the body. Secondly possbily incorporate reinforcement ribs into the rotated main tensioner body because as soon as I tension the belt, the motor can tip ever so slightly due to the flex in the body and can cause rubbing on the belt 80t pulley belt (I got around this issue by shimming the motor tensioner with insulation tape to compensate for the flex. Thanks for the work you've put into this!

[@KevinAkaSam]

Hey, yeah 60° is fine, don’t worry about that. And thanks for the suggestion. The idea with the bearing is great! I will add that:) but i don’t understand the last pint you mentioned:/

[@KevinAkaSam]

I just added a version with a bearing in the transmission body:)

[@Dutch3DMaster]

@@KevinAkaSam From what my brother told me the drivers short the windings during power off to help with braking and can do the very same thing upon operation because the logic signal being low (or high) can make the driver operate in a way that it ties the windings together to help with braking and not rely on friction just on it's own. Going to try this mod, but have to wait to get better first (stupid hayfever is absolutely awfull this year....)

[@nico_poriol]

Does this eliminates elephant's foot?

[@knickfrequenz]

Does this work with the V2 Neo?

[@franlinkin18]

Is it possible to do it without the Pom wheels? The original V rollers I mean

[@KevinAkaSam]

There’s also a mgn 12H version online but the wheels are just fine;)

[@chompy4039]

With the Dual Z and MGN 12H mod which option should i select for the motiom kit [powge] the dual z 20T idlers or the single one ? btw the mod looks great

[@twinturbostang]

Very cool! Will this work with a CR-10? Seems similar in design to the Ender3 but I believe there are subtle differences in the hardware.

[@KevinAkaSam]

Yea! All you need is a longer rod and some extra belt, the 2 meter from the kit wouldn’t be enough

[@ugurbozkus1075]

hi, is there any movement and stretching in the z axis while making the x axis movements? What is the situation in fast printing?Thx for video it amazing idea!

[@KevinAkaSam]

Hey, there’re no problems with fast printing and no stretches ;)

[@ugurbozkus1075]

@@KevinAkaSam hey thx for your fast reponse :) just 1 question more, i have to use pla so if i make a %100 infill is it work?

[@KevinAkaSam]

Pla isn’t the best choice, even with 100%infill. You should keep an eye on your motor mount (the tensioner arm). If the motor gets too hot this part will fail very quick. Maybe you can find someone who can print you this in petg or something similar. The rest should work with pls because there’s no heat involved

[@doctrainsmodifications5201]

Hi Kevin, I stated printing the parts today and when I dry fitted the timing belt from the , CE3PRO_180TRingGear(Voron), print file the teeth on the 80T Ring where not deep enough to lock in the timing belt. I'm printing on an E3Pro with Sunlu petg. All the other parts so far are coming out great and I was hoping you might have a thought about a Cura setting that might help with the depth of the teeth. Thank You Doug

[@KevinAkaSam]

Hey 👋🏼 You can try to set the wall order to outer first. Also printing slower could help. Idk if you use klipper or marlin but pressure advance/ linear advance should help as well 🙂

[@doctrainsmodifications5201]

@@KevinAkaSam Greetings, Good point with the wall order, I will add that to the next print if it's needed. I'm using Marlin ( Mriscos's Professional ) firmware on this printer but I can try printing it one of my Klipper / Mainsail printers if pressure advance might help. My print speed is 50mm/sec for this 2nd print on the E3 Pro. In addition for the second print I changed the nozzle (.4) on the MK8 to the original Creality one. I was using a nozzle with a larger outlet face and though that it might be causing a flattening effect to the layer shape. The second print should be completed in about 2 hrs. so we will see what the changes did. Thank you for your reply and suggestions and a great project. Best Regards Doug

[@doctrainsmodifications5201]

Hi Kevin, Replacing the nozzle corrected the printing issue with the 80T gear. It seemed that the flat face of the clone nozzle was distorting the layer line a bit to much. Onward. Doug

[@LT72884]

will this work for the cr10 such as the tevo tornado? thanks

[@gimpatrickpowellmoreno3873]

Your videos are great dude. I have a question.. can i use these upgrades on my aquila s2 3d printer since its pretty much an ender 3 clon?

[@Hogwarts.Failure]

What a great mod, i have one issue.... with this design the extruder stepper sits about 20mm lower than with the stock plate. my cable chain isn't straight and binds. Would be great if this can be modified.

[@KevinAkaSam]

Ah interesting 🤔 could you send me a message on discord?

[@Hogwarts.Failure]

@@KevinAkaSam Sure, got a tag?

[@KevinAkaSam]

kevinakasam#2097

[@Reds3DPrinting]

hey kevin aka sam, do you know if there is any documentation on this being done to a ender 3 neo

[@Reds3DPrinting]

nevermind, found the info i needed, i have a v1 neo so i can just follow this guide exactly i believe. If you see this please correct me if i am wrong

[@xXSarTriXx]

i realy want to print this and try it but i am to stupid for it and need a full list with parts i need and how mutch from it :D i dont get is with parts i need and what party i need t o buy :D

[@KevinAkaSam]

Hey :) here you can find a list with all the parts you need: github.com/kevinakasam/BeltDrivenEnder3/blob/main/BOM_final.pdf

[@xXSarTriXx]

@@KevinAkaSam Ty

[@realBurgersim]

Would this in theory also work on an e der 3 max? Of course with some modifications, i guess?

[@KevinAkaSam]

Yes this would work with the E3Max! The only thing that needs to change are the bottom parts. Please give me a ping on discord, I will send you the files then. The rest is completely the same 🙂

[@aneeshdupaguntla3802]

What are the slices settings?

[@kirkhammetthellyeah]

What are new z steps per mm?

[@mahdijavanbakht642]

Hi, I sent you another comment here that you may not have seen. I find some misalignment in ender v3.step cad model. How can I show them to you?

[@KevinAkaSam]

Hello, sorry about that, I always try to answer all comments. You can write me via Discord (kevinakasam#2097) which version of CAD do you have? With the Left/Right V3.2 an offset of 0.5mm in the belt tensioner was already fixed, as well as the holes at Left/Right Top of the rotated version. But feel free to contact me then we can clarify this :) [because my pc is not so powerful, I always have to split designs, I add all elements together in a file at the end so that my pc can handle that. So it may be that the parts are correct, but are incorrectly positioned in the cad]

[@mahdijavanbakht642]

@@KevinAkaSam I don't know how to use Discord but anyway, I created an account and sent you a friend request.

[@jothain]

It looks like gantry might easily drop with this solution. I'd definitely add a counter weight for such usage.

[@thetostplayertv]

does anyone know where the belt tensioner and gear parts are?

[@KevinAkaSam]

Please read the thingiverse description, you can find these on GitHub ;)

[@thetostplayertv]

@@KevinAkaSam I found them, thank you. Great job btw!

[@joecnc3341]

Liked-Subscribed-Notified. Very nice work! It would be nice to have a "before" and "after" print to assess what performance improvements were achieved.

[@KevinAkaSam]

Thank you:) Things are planned. I got a new and stock Ender 3, so I could make a comparison. But the effect really depends on your printer. If you have a perfectly straight and aligned leadscrew you wouldn’t see a difference or no big improvements. But if your leadscrew is bad you will see an improvement. But as I said, I planned a few things and I will show some prints. You can take a look at my GitHub Page. I uploaded some „after“ prints you could compare with your own prints :)

[@joecnc3341]

@@KevinAkaSam Hi Kevin. Great work here. I hope you keep posting videos!

[@simplytragic]

Are you returning to post a tutorial for tuning the belts soon? I understand such things are time consuming, so if not could you point me towards any good resources to learn to do so myself? I just finished the dual z version of this mod and I love it, but I'm struggling with calibration and I don't have a solid frame of reference for how tight the belts should be. Any help you can provide is appreciated, and thank you either way because this is easily my favorite mod on my printer!

[@KevinAkaSam]

Hey, yes this video is planned for a long time already but I need more time ^^ However, home your z axis and measure the distance between the upper clap the top pulley. Divide 28531 by the amount of millimeters you measured. This will give you a frequency you can tune with an app on your phone. This is a rough point where to start. If you axis is staying up with this, you’re fine. If it’s moving down, add some more tension:) And if you want to read about this, check this out: benchtopmachineshop.blogspot.com/2019/04/printer-belt-tension.html

[@the-matrix-has-you]

Hi Kevin, great work! But I wonder how PETG parts for motor mount withstand over 80 degrees celcius temperatures? Are you still using your mod?

[@amp18]

hello, when it is without current it does not lower itself under its own weight?

[@KevinAkaSam]

No it stays up just fine, just take a look at the end of my linear rail video;)

[@jorgetucson8196]

Excellent work sir

[@ronrico2620]

Any reason why to print in petg? Would pla work

[@KevinAkaSam]

The motor mount can get quite hot so I would print at least that out of petg

[@ahmetmetinuzun]

Can you tell when the belts stretch unevenly over time?

[@KevinAkaSam]

No, if you buy reinforced belts (Glas fiber) you don’t even have to tighten them or check if they are still tight, maybe once or twice in a year ;)

[@AlexG207]

You got a list to all the needed extra parts like screws?

[@KevinAkaSam]

Everything you need is online, check the BOM for a detailed part list: github.com/kevinakasam/BeltDrivenEnder3

[@ugurbozkus1075]

Hey again, i have a layer shifting issue after making belt driven, any suggestions? Anyone facing this issue after make this upgrade?

[@KevinAkaSam]

Layer Shift for which axis?

[@ugurbozkus1075]

@@KevinAkaSam on y axis always the same layer height

[@KevinAkaSam]

Then I doubt it comes from the Z axis. The only thing that could happen is that the nozzle is too low and releases the print from the bed, but not that it stops Y. Unless you set a very very low current but then you should be able to stop the bed with your hands. Do you always print the same file or have you resliced it? Maybe there is an error in the file?

[@ManuelRochaSA]

Kevin, I been happy with this super mod, all 100%, however I run into small problem, I had a power interruption, I found the nozle deep into the print, that mean a drop, how to solve that problem? I was thinking to get same sort of break to hold the nema in to position, you think that is possible? any help will be appreciated.

[@KevinAkaSam]

Hey, sorry for my late response. Your axis shouldn’t drop. Please take a look at the FAQ on GitHub. You should solve this problem with belt tension. But I also implemented a keybak system similar to the switchwire :)

[@ManuelRochaSA]

@@KevinAkaSam Hi, thanks for your help again, I`m planning to solve this problem later, i`m busy building my e3v2 to 400x400x400, then I will try again, BUT will be a Z belt drive. Thanks man

[@vladsbikeshed]

Can resin printed parts be used instead of petg or abs?

[@KevinAkaSam]

Resin printed parts aren't great for functional parts. they're too stiff and brittle. Also the tolerances would be off

[@vladsbikeshed]

@@KevinAkaSam thank you, sir! I’ve printed mine out of petg, the resin question was more of a curiosity. Thank you for your work and tutorials. Soon I’ll finish installing and calibrating your mod. Can’t wait to see it in action.

[@CpxAzn]

Any thoughts on swapping out the z axis wheels with polycarbonate with this mod?

[@KevinAkaSam]

I’m still using the stock ones without any issues. I’ve never tried the polycarbonate ones.

[@MARvelous3D28]

I will definitely try this on my ender 3. I dont want the ender switchwire conversion for now.

[@BRxRanger]

Does an earth/ground cable need running from the PSU to the printer frame now that it is not screwed directly to it anymore?

[@KevinAkaSam]

Honestly I don’t know that. I mean the frame is made of aluminum, so it would not be electrically conductive anyway right? But sorry I have no idea and never thought about it ^^

[@Sorian87]

Could mount it just further back on the frame, like some dual z motor kits do.

[@runningfromtheheat]

Well TBH aluminum is electrically conductive. Many electric wires are aluminum core and not copper.

[@runningfromtheheat]

@@KevinAkaSam aluminum is metal and conductive.

[@KevinAkaSam]

Ah thanks👍🏼

[@Ayden4107]

Hello, i would like to know what print settings you used, been having issues printing the top left and right parts

[@KevinAkaSam]

45% infill, 4 walls, 4 or 5 top and bottom layers. 0.4mm nozzle and 0.2mm layerheight ;)

[@Ayden4107]

@@KevinAkaSam did you use a rift brim or skirt, im having issues with part sticking after 3rd or 4th layer, bed temp 45-55 hotend 200-205, printed other parts and no problem, just having issues with these

[@KevinAkaSam]

You’re using pla right? I’m using a skirt on most of my prints. You could rotate the part so it’s laying flat and add support. Just be careful to keep an eye on the layer orientation. You don’t want the layer parallel to the frame so the belt can’t separate them

[@hermangaviria690]

Can you try to get Michael from TeachingTech to review this mod?

[@ardatuncer8520]

can ı use 200 looped belt

[@KevinAkaSam]

Sure, check the remixes on Thingiverse

[@YouMakeTech]

wow. Really cool. Will give it a try. Thanks for sharing

[@KevinAkaSam]

Thanks:)

[@3dprints901]

Hi I really love your design. Could u post the all parts that I need to buy? Like what type and how many bearings, screws etc.

[@KevinAkaSam]

Hey, I already uploaded a BOM:) please check BOM_All_Parts.pdf on Thingiverse (www.thingiverse.com/thing:4243512)

[@duality4y]

why don't you have more videos i really enjoy them.

[@aarondavalon8985]

I have just bought some abs like resin, will let you know how it pans out.

[@KevinAkaSam]

Oh yeah! Thank you:)

[@TheAnqueetas]

Did you mention Voron Design in your influence for this project? Forgive me if I missed that important reference.

[@KevinAkaSam]

Of course! Take a look at the third sentence on my Thingiverse page:D also the Info file on GitHub. All the voron parts are only on GitHub so I can keep the GNU 3 license. But thanks for asking;)

[@colly05]

what is the fan shroud you are using please ?

[@KevinAkaSam]

It’s a trianglelab bmg direct drive extruder kit

[@colly05]

@@KevinAkaSam the fan shroud I see it’s bmg. Did the shroud come with it ? Or did you print it.

[@KevinAkaSam]

I bought a kit with printed parts, but you should go for a design from Thingiverse. I wasn’t so happy with the trianglelab design

[@Electheo]

Do the belts cause the z axis to jojo a bit when moving up and down?

[@KevinAkaSam]

No^^ that’s nothing you have to worry about. It works the same as the the x and y axis, just rotated by 90 degrees;)

[@lanypuspasari1868]

Using abs or petg for 3d print parts?

[@KevinAkaSam]

Both material are working fine. If you’re using an enclosure that reaches more than 40°C, abs is the better option

[@TruthNdChaos]

Conveniently enough i just decided to start printing this today after returning a shitty dual z leadscrew kit from amazon. Looking forward to getting some clean prints and being done with leadscrews for good. Anything i should worry about when installing on an ender 3 v2?

[@KevinAkaSam]

No you can install this mod also on the ender 3 v2. But if you want to use linear rails I would please you to wait a few days. The left plate changed for some reasons. They moved the holes we need by 2mm. I’m still testing the parts with a friend. But if you want to use the wheels you can use all the files without any problems;) and you can change to rails at any time later and just have to print two small brackets, but as I said the left one for the V2 isn’t finished yet

[@TruthNdChaos]

@@KevinAkaSam Just realized something that i didn't think of before. I saw that most people use direct drive with this mod, so i'm not exactly sure how to mount my extruder now. It doesn't seem that i can mount it normally anymore.

[@KevinAkaSam]

Take a look at 6:40 , I uploaded plates with a motor mount, so you can use it with the stock Bowden Setup;) Just print the file: 1_LeftV3.2_Bowden to get the stock setup (www.thingiverse.com/thing:4243512/files)

[@TruthNdChaos]

@@KevinAkaSam Lol, sorry about that. I realized that shortly after i made the comment. I always decide to take on these new projects late at night and tell myself "alright, everythings in order, no need to mess with it any further untill it's all printed". It usually doesn't work out that way.

[@KevinAkaSam]

Late night projects are the best;)

[@WINTFOX]

Thanks for the great job. I will do it on my printer. Can I place the Z stepper a little to the left or to the right, or to one side? Thanks again :D

[@KevinAkaSam]

Thank you :) Of course, it doesn’t matter where you place the motor

[@WINTFOX]

@@KevinAkaSam great, thank you :D

[@Candymanic]

Hi Kevin, great mod! I've got a question, do you reckon this would be easily adaptable for the Anycubic Vyper? Obviously it has two stepper motors on it instead of the creality. I'm thinking adjust the stepper motor mounts at the bottom so they instead sit with the gear in line with the belts and simply plug back in as standard.