How To Bleed Your Motorcycle Brakes | MC Garage

[@dimitarvokata4412]

That's how all tutorials shoud be. Only the important info, simple and well explaned!

[@A6Legit]

Yeah, I just wish I didn't have to watch ads for the 50 times I come back to check a step in these tutorials lol

[@LonelyHeat]

Yes but very hard to do any big fix’s

[@cfltitan]

Another great little tip that I learned several years back to get those last very few stubborn bubbles out is to zip tie your brake lever back and leave it set overnight. All the little fine bubbles left in the system will float up (air always rises) and pop into the fluid reservoir leaving your lines completely air free! It works great!

[@jourdan2047]

Do you know what you would do if the reservoir is completely empty ?

[@xthesketcher610]

@@jourdan2047 same. Im wondering this too

[@xthesketcher610]

@@jourdan2047 I think just add the fluid, thats it.

[@x-man5056]

It doesn't work that way. Only with the brake handle or foot pedal all the way out (not compressed), is the passage for air open to the reservoir. As you first start to compress the fluid, the passage is closed in the master cyl.

[@benreber2277]

Thanks I am trying to get bubbles out. Not sure why but it’s a lot harder than for my cars. I know it’s the same process and system so I’m guessing it is sucking air when it gets too low from reservoir being so much smaller than my cars and trucks.

[@tom24gr46]

Additional tip: place the bleeder bottle above the bleeder valve so air more easily migrates out of the lines. Keeping the bottle below the valve defeats that.

[@DaBawski]

it literally doesn't matter...

[@jarminben]

Just a tip for easy flow from the brake fluid bottle. do not remove the foil top under the cap when you first open the container just pierce with a pen or phillips head at 6 full size hole and 12 o'clock smaller air hole to slow the rate it comes out at to reduce the chance of a big spill.

[@ChasingContours]

Good suggestion

[@oscarleon3008]

I can't get enough of MC garage videos. I had to rebuild my forks recently, and your tutorial saved me a LOT of money. Please keep up the great work!

[@carnafillian113]

Same! I just rebuilt my forks last week with the help of their vid!

[@SyedObaidullah555]

same here Ari !

[@carnafillian113]

Fork seals went bad. And by that I mean I dropped a wheelie really hard and they started leaking haha. Only one was leaking--there was fork oil slowly coming out of the top of the seal and getting all over the silver part of the fork (I have standard, non-inverted forks on my F4i). Only one seal was bad, the other fork was fine, but after a few days my bike was sitting noticeably lower, my front suspension was super soft, and i could bottom out the bike just by jumping up and down on it. Rebuilding just refers to taking something apart and replacing components. In my case i rebuilt them because something was broken, but some people will rebuild their forks every year or two (or more often) simply to give everything a good clean and replace the fork oil.

[@autosneed6738]

Great Tutorial indeed

[@tmulpagano]

If you're using a one way valve, the crack and the close aren't required, just be sure to keep the reservoir topped off to avoid sucking air into the system. The check valve will keep the old fluid and any purged air bubbles from getting sucked back in...if you're gonna pay for the convenience of the valve, then use it!

[@strictlyJDM]

Another Tip - siphon out old brake fluid before you pour new brake fluid into the master cylinder. That way you don't mix older/newer and its obvious when you get the new fluid coming out on the caliper end.

[@keyworksales6241]

Just do the job right and flush the whole system.

[@donziperk]

Tony he was just pointing out its a good idea to clean out the reservoir before starting. Why pump a whole reservoir of dirty fluid through the brake system.

[@alangriff1]

Yes I agree...I don't get mixing new with old. You could suck the old fluid out with a syringe and then add the new fluid.

[@arnab_d9]

That's the point i was wondering

[@pikapikacool]

@@alangriff1 you can get the old oil out using syringe, but not the one in the brake hose, and it's not a good idea to bleed it without adding new oil first, as it will add air to the hose.. so you need to add new oil anyway in the reservoir while bleeding the brake hose..

[@SouperAsH]

This dude knows how to select a good knife. With that comment out of the way, the rest of the content in the video is cut, dry, defined, and precise. This is what every tutorial vid should be.

[@FunWithAJ]

Ari this is legit the best most accurate how-to you guys have made to date. I signed up for a $40 course to learn this in SoCal like 8 months ago and they taught us the same thing verbatim.

[@PANTYEATR1]

I fill my bottle with a small portion of old brake fluid and let the end of the tube submerge in it. that way no air can get back in the tube once it comes out. you will also see the air bubbles leaving the system better. another trick I read (but I don't know how good it works) is to zip tie the brake lever to the handle overnight. that's supposed to let any air rise to the top of the reservoir through the system.

[@offroadoverlords]

Chiming in 5 years later for passers by, the zip tie works wonders on stubborn lines where you can't quite get the last bit of air out of the master cylinder bore area. ziptie the lever, leave the master cylinder cap on but loose so that air can escape. I've had it take up to 48 hours before, but usually overnight does the trick.

[@mattcozine9630]

Great tutorial. Sweet, simple, straight to the point with no unnecessary fillers. Thanks Mc garage. Couldn't have done it without you guys.

[@carswithsonduren]

One of the best motorcycle channels on KZbin

[@BlockCylinder]

These videos are the best. I've been putting this job off for weeks because my manual is poorly written and it's overwhelming to keep all of the steps in order in my head. After 5 minutes with Ari I'm feeling quite confident.

[@hay829]

By far most helpful video I’ve found. I’m going to bleed my motorcycle for the first time, brembo calipers and master so I just wanted to make sure I got the right info. Yours was clear, loud and informative. Thank you!

[@letsdosomething6691]

I think this might be the first fix it videos I’ve watched that worked first try

[@user-cx2bk6pm2f]

This guy Ari is a badass! Tremendous clarity, succinctness, and logical thought flow. Don't mess with a smart guy with guns like those!

[@taterlysaladman9377]

Hi Ari's mom.

[@MrNipperz]

Got to do my brakes this fall. My Honda is still on the same pads after 18k.Even though they aint on the wear bars i think the material actually degrades with time. Caliper clean, flush and new pads all at the same time! She's gonna love it !

[@hikerrobot]

Great video. I've not bled brakes for a few years, so this was very helpful. Also the comment at the end about ABS was informative too. Cheers

[@kanthmclaren]

You people are the best guys...no one can put up a video this small yet with full details....

[@Lawheeldrive]

This is by far one of the best tutorials.

[@fk3321]

Great video again! I used to do this before I bought a MightyVac, zip tie the lever and vacuum out the fluid as u refill the reservoir. It's worth the money.

[@ghendricks001]

ANOTHER BRILLIANT MC GARAGE VIDEO ! These folk really know there stuff and know how to impart there knowledge to the audience. More videos please...gerhard from Australia.

[@taterlysaladman9377]

Yep only 23 folks so far have worse problems after following the video. Probably because several ways that cause air to be in the lines were not properly explained.

[@mariobondanza5149]

For bikes with ABS, after doing the regular bleeding, you can ride the bike in a safe place (parking lot or similar) and force the ABS to activate doing some really nasty brakings (be careful, since most of the times parking lots are full of nasty gravel: brake ONLY when the bike is perfectly vertical). This way, part of the fluid trapped into the ABS module is mixed with the fluid in the circuit and you can then proceed performing a new bleeding cycle. Clearly, as you smartly said, Hary, the quantity of fluid trapped in the ABS module is negligible: this is something more for meticolous riders, but it makes no really significant improvements on the brakes' efficiency.

[@truantray]

Thanks for ending with an explanation as to why your beginning is entirely pointless.

[@beefabbear4104]

@@truantray😂

[@Mr.Be93]

I don't understand the 40 no likes? Every video I've watched from this channel has been helpful if not a reminder/refresher of something I already know.

[@redshiftit8303]

Greatest motorcycle channel on KZbin! Love your work guys, keep it up!

[@shemsuhor8763]

Thanks guys, this was a great, quick, to the point little tutorial. Much appreciated!

[@kbearpro]

Some really great advice on brake bleeding. One thing I like to do first is remove the old brake fluid from the reservoir, clean out any dark or dirty residue from the reservoir put new fluid in then start draining the brake lines. This way I don't need to keep replacing the fluid in the reservoir so much. In effect I'm flushing the old fluid out of the brake lines and backing it up with new fluid much faster. Remove the fluid with a syringe or a good turkey baster, making very sure you do NOT get any fluid on your machine.

[@phoenix4315]

Hey man, long time reader and viewer. A couple things - introduce yourself. I know you're Ari Henning, but others may not. A good tip is to use a 50ml syringe from a farm supply store. Connect the hose to the syringe and use it to transfer the fluid from the bottle to the reservoir. I find this methods easier and cleaner than pouring from the bottle. Also, maybe mention if you have a hydraulice clutch, it would be good to bleed it at the same time if it takes the same fluid. Keep the videos going !!! Thanks again!!

[@marktremblay6774]

Love MC Garage, great explanations of how to do things right.

[@taylorbye4701]

Here's a tip - if you are starting with no fluid in the system (such as after replacing a master cyl or maybe rebuilding the caliper) you often need to "bench bleed" the master cylinder because an air bubble gets trapped in it, leading to no fluid flow. You can do it on a work bench (hence the name) or with it mounted on the bars. Most auto parts stores have kits that have a variety of threaded adapters that go in the hole where your brake hose normally goes. Pick the right one, thread it in, and stick a length of tubing on the nipple. Then you run the tube into the master cylinder reservoir and use a rod or screwdriver or the brake lever to push the plunger. Repeat until you have no bubbles. Then install your brake hose and bleed exactly how he said. Posting this because I just had to do so myself. The same procedure works for car master cylinders too.

[@jamesworful787]

I have been putting this off (because I was intimidated by the process) after rebuilding my front calipers. Must have watched at least 50 different tutorials, all left me with confused at different points in the process. Your tutorial is fantastic. The tempo at which you present info along with the video editing has given me the confidence to tackle this project today. 🤞 Keep up with the great work! Appreciate it! I will let you know how it goes. One question: Does it matter how many times you pump the brakes before you open the bleeder?

[@GMak81]

I'm the same, I have to fit braided brake lines to my 600 Fazer, which I've never done before, then bleed the brakes, which I've never done. Guess the only way to learn is to have a go...cheers.

[@saltzisch3182]

you guys need to upload more frequently. Any type of videos you guys upload makes my day! or very informative! Thanks

[@saltzisch3182]

Ari Henning thanks ari! :)

[@murugaramanreddy6896]

Hi friend, Is it the same procedure for a dual ABS bike? AbS bike need to put ON State while doing air bleeding?

[@lornescott-wilson6144]

Thanks for the video. A trick I use is to pump the brake lever a few times before opening up the bleed valve. So I pump the lever 2 times and then open the bleed valve on the third pump (i.e. 1,2, release bleed valve on 3rd pump... and tighten the bleed valve while the lever is still fully depressed on the third & full pump...before letting it go). It seems to pressurise the fluid better and sort out the air bubbles quicker. Not sure that that is scientifically correct, but my bike and car bleeding has improved since using this technique. I used to use the old pump (open bleed nipple), then tighten bleed nipple before releasing lever technique, but had issues with an R1100RS I had. I couldn't get a nice feel at the lever until I adopted the '123 technique'. Since using the 123 technique, I never have any issues. At worst all you are doing is using the brakes a couple of extra times between bleed strokes.

[@lornescott-wilson6144]

Tip 2: I also suck out the old dirty reservoir brake fluid with a syringe and refill with new fluid before starting to bleed. This just saves the extra time of pumping the old dirty reservoir fluid through the system.

[@frzen]

this method is how I bleed at the master cylinder. pump it up, crack the bolt while continuing to slowly squeeze in the lever and tightening the banjo bolt before the lever is fully depressed.

[@jayw900]

So basically you're trick is the same as what was said in the video.

[@lornescott-wilson6144]

Hi jayw900, If I followed the video correctly, it looked like Ari only did the 123 pump technique once and then continued with the traditional 1:1 pump:bleed technique after that. Maybe it was just the video editing that made it appear that way ("pump-crack-close-release-pump-crack-close-release" sounds like the traditional 1:1 bleeding method)-see 3:20ff. Anyways, I do find the 123 pressurize the system before releasing the bleed nipple is best done each time before opening the bleed nipple. So to be clear, the method I use is pump-pump-pump-crack-release-close, pump-pump-pump-crack-release-close, pump-pump-pump-crack-release-close, etc.

[@soumyapanigrahi21]

I knew it still watched it. There is something about you Ari. Love watching MCGarage! #dontbejealouszach

[@funkymonkeylovin]

RanPan #bromance

[@leighton2202]

Thank you thank you thank you! I had to change the hose and couldnt for the life of me work out why it wasn't bleeding properly. The "pump, open, close, repeat" was what I was missing. Kind of obvious now but thank you!!!

[@thommykent7785]

Great idea on cutting a cross in the bleed bottle for holding the hose. It always pops out of the top!

[@_d_h_]

I'm starting my motorbike training and these videos are so on point. Easy to understand, no bullshit. Thanks from Germany!

[@donziperk]

Great Videos watch them all. Respectfully like to add that you should start bleeding the brakes at the bleed fitting farthest from the brake leaver based on the brake line distance away from the the leaver.

[@nbowling10trio]

I have limp lever😢. Bout to do this, I heard it's better to put the end of tube down in fluid so air cannot travel backwards. Thank you for your content

[@recpro7847]

Great job. Careful on some rear calipers folks since some have the bleed nipple on the bottom. This means the caliper has to be removed, a wrench or something in between the the pads to act as the rotor, then make sure the nipple is turned to the highest point, then bleed as described.

[@imgooley]

Also, let it be known, I'm buying Bel-Ray fluids because of you guys. Keep making stuff.

[@imgooley]

Also, speed bleeders are amazing.

[@KlipTastiC]

Great video and tutorial. How ever this did not work for me, I have checked around with many other videos explaining the same process as well. But when I checked on the forums they were saying to open the valve and then to squeeze the brake lever, and close valve while then releasing the brake lever. I have found that this option has worked very well for my bike. I have a 2007 cbr600rr. Not sure if ABS would make a difference or not but mine does not have ABS brakes

[@Gixxer983]

Best way to replace or bleed the brakes is from the bottom up with a syringe so the air gets pushed up top first go. faster, better. Stiff brake lever first go. Its a 5 minute job. Nice video.

[@lornescott-wilson6144]

Hi Gixxer983, what type or size syringe do you use for the job? Secondly, do you drain the fluid fully before refilling by opening up the bleed nipple and draining the fluid out?

[@andy42x]

He makes it look so easy. if i gave this a shot, i'd have brake fluid all over my bike and my driveway, and my brake levers would squish all the way down to the handlebar.

[@Peter-976]

Good video but I`ll take the 2' hose at $1.00 vs the $30.00 thingamajig.

[@yeh.80]

I didn't even use a hose, so much crazy gadjects now a days

[@taterlysaladman9377]

@@TheJoesenOne93 I just bought a one way check valve for $31. Thanks!

[@gadilending2200]

I used a urine catheter bag, fits great, no mess

[@chriscs9080]

@@gadilending2200 me2.. fits exactly haha for less than a dollar !

[@frankpeutz9106]

Thanks Ari, really love your MCgarage video's. Would love a little more detail sometimes and do/don'ts (wouldn't mind a 10 minute video). Keep up the good works! Frank (Netherlands) ... have been reading Motorcyclist since 1978 - you remind me a little of Art Friedman 👍

[@nkolchenko]

Nice video. Going to replace braking fluid in my brakes soon. By the way, there is a tool (vacuum pump) that literally sucks air bubbles and old fluid from system. Saves time and doesn't allow you to have that much fun with brake lever :-)

[@taterlysaladman9377]

no you stay out of harbor freight. you buy our $30 plastic tube we throw in free one way valve.

[@c0mputer]

One thing about speed bleeders or vacuum bleeders. Sometimes you'll keep bleeding and not be able to get all the air out. It's possible that the vacuum created by releasing the lever (or the actual vacuum pump) is sucking air in through the threads on the bleeder. So the air isn't actually in the system, but it will appear that you can never get the air out. I only use standard bleeders now because it eliminates that possibility as it's not hard at all to do.

[@circaindustries173]

I AGREE! Those automatic vacuum bleeders for cars didn't work on my bike: Even the rear brake still had too many air bubbles after a long period of time. I went back to the old fashioned method, and after Ari's excellent video, I am considering the Motec connector.

[@madloufos89]

Another tip - if you have an underslung rear caliper, unmount the caliper and flip it so that the nipple is facing upwards. That way air is bled through the nipple and is not trapped in the caliper.

[@Stan_in_Shelton_WA]

What about starting with fully compressing the calipers to expel all the old fluid?

[@nigelmitchell351]

My Aprilia manual tells to bleed master cylinder first, which makes more sense if you're trying to push air down hill to bleed. I always pre fill the calipers following a full strip.

[@PapodeArmas]

I just did this job along with the clutch fluid ( 2006 cbr100rr has a hydraulic clutch) and now i got a killer deal for steel braided lines so i guess ill be replacing fluid again but i actually enjoy doing this job so hell yeah lol

[@HighGrade_FireBlade]

I feel like it’s worth noting that a lot of radial master cylinders need to be bled under significant vacuum. I’ve had several experiences (mostly with radial master cylinders) where I could put a liter of brake fluid through the calipers and master cylinder and still managed to get a bunch of bubbles when placing the circuit under vacuum.

[@demford8786]

Great video, I just wish you'd mentioned how big that tubing is. Was just gonna' go buy some...

[@xfiringsquadx]

Wish I saw the tip about protecting the bikes finish. Didn't realize how corrosive brake fluid was. Luckily the only damage was that it removed a logo from my aftermarket protaper ATV handlebars. The black paint underneath was unharmed. The only other thing I did differently was I pumped three times between opening the valve rather than once.

[@myuseek]

Your video tutorials are a very big help to me. Please do keep it up!

[@chronograph83]

I love these instructional videos! You do a great job of teaching maintenance skills that help us keep our kickstands up and keep us more in touch with the experience of owning and maintaining our bikes. Thank you and keep up the great work!

[@briarfox637]

I’m about to change my lines to steel lines and add some levers. Thanks for your vid.

[@spotthedogg]

I just saw two young guys having trouble in the local Canadian Tire parking lot so I went over to offer help. Ducati Monster 696 owner from Ontario said he was bleeding his clutch, looked at his setup and said "you must have watched Ari's video on KZbin ". He had in fact watched it 😏 I gave them some help and they were back on the road to Prince Edward Island. 😎

[@taterlysaladman9377]

I just saw a butterfly.

[@MrGzwx]

Fantastic! Short, simple but still covered all the important points!

[@TravisDodge]

I have bleed brakes with the same method, except filling the bottle 1/4 full and make sure the hose is below surface level of the 1/4 full brake fluid. No more turning on and closing. Simply pump until your lines are clear.

[@marcsteel7284]

Always a good review of how to bleed and refill brake fluid.

[@taterlysaladman9377]

Can be found elsewhere.

[@NederlandGuy]

Very helpful! Simple, to the point and concise. Well done.

[@mrthomas394]

Very clued up these guys and always give clear easy to follow instructions. Great video

[@taterlysaladman9377]

While leaving out just a few critical items.

[@dannybeard2861]

Ari, Just wanted to say thanks for the video. Just finished changing my brake fluid using the tube in the bottle trick. Works well. Thanks!

[@fhhfgj]

another great video thanks Ari! I'm learning so much from these five minute videos you guys are the best

[@theweardedboodsman]

Change your Brakefluid all 2 Years. Dot4 Brakefluid have a boiling point about 290 degrees C, if there is to much water in it, the boiling point sinks, and what do fluids that boils? right, they bubble. Once you are on nice, tight street with much accelerating and braking, you bf sarts to boil an suddenly your brakelever falls through, than you watch self falling out of the next corner...dot4 doenst cost a lot, change it, its your safety! greetings from Switzerland, and great vids!

[@taterlysaladman9377]

Change every year if you live in area with more than 25 inch rain a year. Or if you park it outside more than 9 hours a day. The humidity ruins the fluid.

[@paanfarkhan4677]

i literally have the same setup for the bottle, right down to the cross where the small tube goes in hahaha great video as always

[@RM-np1gm]

I liked the cutting of the paper towel to fit over the reservoir.

[@Xiph1980]

Loving your instructional videos! They are clear and concise! Just watched a lot of them, including this one, caliper mounting style, and the brake pads one. A thing though maybe for a future video: what's the actual difference between fixed, floating, and fully floating rotors?

[@upsidedowndog1256]

A vacuum bleeder can simplify this process, especially if there is air from disassembled/replaced components. You still need to pump a few times but not near as much.

[@kostasanton5286]

I got my ABS system almost destroyed from previous owner forgetting to change the fluid. The new system from yamaha was like 1600$ (converted from euros), though my mechanic "saved" the day by cleaning up the ABS pump.

[@wolfe1970]

I got a suction container for sucking out the engine oil through the dip stick, works great to bleed those brakes, can empty, fill and bleed my brake lines in under 10 minutes

[@InsectSpray]

You guys are seriously the best. Love all your videos. Coming from Melbourne, Australia! I especially liked your Great Ocean Road video :D

[@troywalsh3119]

Sweet, simple, and direct. I love MC garage presentation.

[@taterlysaladman9377]

No details. Just like someone that has no idea what he is doing!

[@wraithRR]

one thing he didnt mention, if you have a bleeder on your master cylinder start with that. i couldnt figure out what i did wrong until i noticed i had a bleeder valve at my master cylinder. run 2 full reservoirs of fluid through it, now it will be completely clean for when you do the lines. do the lines as normal then finish of again with the cylinder before topping off. my brakes are now STIFF and finally dont pull in all the way to the bars.

[@rohithdeevi4739]

Hey ari, why we didn't find how to clean a bad spark plug and dusty air filters.. Lol, man we love to learn these from you. Hope you will make videos on these subject.

[@MrNeilg71]

Great teacher! Thanks Ari - that's all I need as I change my VFR brake & clutch fluid for the first time.

[@ohreally1021]

This is very handy, thank you. What are your thoughts on speed bleeders for people who want to service their own bake fluid? Thanks

[@danielwood7550]

Always look forward to your new videos keep up the good work fellas

[@Andieelizabeth73]

Cheers dude, just replaced rear hose on the R1 with a new braided one, your video really helped bleeding it through, never done it before, Thanks for the vid :)

[@tylermallay1197]

thank you for making this vid will try it out tonight just threw on some new steel braided cables and didn't know how to bleed brakes haha

[@MrStrizver]

I've always used a longer length of tubing and made a loop into the waste container. That way there's no need to keep opening/closing the valve once the fluid has filled the loop. There's no way for air to be sucked in when the brake lever is released.

[@creamygoodness23]

Stupid question but…could you do both front calipers simultaneously…if you have an extra set of hands I guess

[@kelvinjohnson3407]

thank you very much, this is my first time working on motorcycle brakes, basically same as a car with out the pedal lol

[@END30000]

Omg I was scared ASF but thanks to this I know how to bleed my brakes !!! Successfully

[@TheFireblade1000RR]

Rode one of those bikes yesterday, very impressive...

[@12345.......]

1) Put a bit of brake fluid in the waste bottle 2) put the hose in the bottle so the tip of the hose is submerged 3) open bleeder and pump away. The hose being submerged will prevent air from traveling back into the system. So much easier and faster than pump, hold, bleed, repeat

[@bobbybreland2169]

If there is a one way valve in line on the caliper do you need to open and close it? wouldn't the valve keep the air and old fluid from coming back in?

[@rishard1698]

I always like your videos Ari Henning.. Simple and easy to follow... Can u please make another one on how to replace a master cylinder? Need to replace mine. Thanks

[@danmclaugh2603]

For dual front brakes, do you do this to both calipers, and can you reach both calipers while squeezing the brake lever?

[@givemethatapp49]

With duel calipers on the front, is there a side that you should start on first?

[@taterlysaladman9377]

Yes. And that is also your first clue--that this video SUCKS

[@Mr.Honore]

If you use a bottle for the old brake fluid. Poor brake fluid into the bottle and submerge the end of the tube in the fluid. Very important to keep the end of the tube in the fluid to keep air from going into your brake lines. Loosen the brake bleeder nut and pump the lever. Makes the job way faster and you don't have to keep pressuring the system closing the bleeder nut. Just leave it open and pump away until the fluid is clear.

[@chasezas]

I've been watching these videos for a long time. They're all amazing! Thank you so much for putting them all together - they're an amazing reference.

[@chadtabudlo5045]

Great stuff as always from MC Garage! Please make a video on repairing or finding out if the master cylinder is faulty or starting to fail.

[@thomaselliott573]

Simple and comprehensive. Well done

[@thomaselliott573]

By the way, do not accuse me of having a limp lever. I can give you advice if you do.

[@WigglesNation]

0:02 what if my lever is stiff longer than 8hrs?

[@wanfarok]

Wow i just bleed my brake couple of days ago and then this video appeared . Very nice

[@x25__]

Gotta replace the reservoir diaphragm too, right?