How To Build a Mini Barn - Part One: Foundation

Building a Mini Barn. Part one: Foundation.
There are a lot of ways to build a foundation for a mini barn, a skid foundation is probably the most common. I've found that leveling the ground, setting a gravel base, then leveling the skids to be a lot harder work than just digging four post holes and building on top of that.
This will be a 10x10 barn so the span can easily be covered by 2x6's placed 12" on center. If you want a lager building simply increase your joist size or add a center beam.
There are all sorts of rules about permits and what not all across the world. Follow your local rules, where I live a building less than 200 square feet doesn't require a permit.
Once the building is complete there will be a materials list and detailed plans on my website: www.davesdiy.com
Please subscribe, comment and share.

[@joemadrid8331]

Interesting video. This is one way to do it. I find it simpler to just build the floor foundation first. Square it and keep the square by attaching the square edge of a piece of plywood at each corner with a 4x4" hole to allow for the posts to come through. Then just level everything. Secure your foundation to the posts and carry on :) Works every time.

[@amazinggrace9114]

Question, you pour concrete into the holes and set post on top of dried concrete, why this way and not putting posts in concrete? Trying to learn

[@maingun07]

I think gravel might be okay if you live somewhere where there is low wind and you make a good point about eliminating frost heave. However (you just knew there was a "but" in there, didn't ya?), if you live in an area where there is high wind, that's where concrete becomes necessary. I live on the High Plains where 20mph wind is "breezy", Spring is plagued with multi day blocks of constant 30mph winds, 40mph is "windy", and once every couple three years we get 80+ (hurricane force) winds. Now when the wind picks up, your barn (or fence, etc) magically turns into a fore and aft rigged schooner, your walls are your sails, the posts are your masts, and the concrete is your keel. The concrete increases the surface contact with the soil by an order of magnitude, giving far greater resistance to shear forces, like what you'd have when the Big Bad Wolf comes a knocking. Just one other point with the posts. Make sure they are UC-4B grade treated. I've found some lumber yards that will try to sell you UC-4A and flat out lie and say that that is suitable for ground contact. (hint: it ain't) I would have done it a little different, but that's just different experiences from two different men talking. Looks good so far.

[@free2binnh]

Frost line in Maine is 60", not going to dig post holes. Use cement blocks on the ground surface. Mud sills allows lining up joists. 2x4 joists is all you need, Joists 24" on center. Use 2x6 for flooring rather than plywood, makes a really strong base.

[@MaddSweetGT500]

Gave you a thumbs up cuz I thought it was bad ass when you said, "It's time to cause controversy!" I love that shit!

[@mcremona]

Off to a great start! Thanks for the post setting tips

[@Davesdiy]

Matthew Cremona Thanks for watching.

[@chrismarx4505]

Overhere in Germany we set the posts in gravel (for drainage) plus concrete (for strength) on top.

[@calebrenegar1992]

Would a gravel sand mix work for keeping it set and dry?

[@LJacyHenry]

Me and my dad have always just filled post holes with dirt. Some of our buildings are 30 years old and still standing just fine.

[@7secondcommute]

Great video! What is the purpose of doubling up the side 2X12’s... carry the weight better for the roof? Thank you.

[@Davesdiy]

They are the beams for the floor joists.

[@PatrickSteil]

I had same question. But why double up? Why can’t you just screw the joists into the first 2x6? Thx

[@gordonchapman222]

@@Davesdiy The way I see it is all the cross joints are hung from the two doubled up joists which are the only supported joists on the ground footings. If there was only one 2x12 on each side I imagine they would bow somewhat over time. The weight of the whole build is on both of these doubled up 2x12's. Dunno if thats right? - Dave ?

[@Davesdiy]

That is absolutely correct. A single could be used but then the span would have to be reduced (don't have a span table in front of me so no idea what a single would span). Also if using joist hangers code calls for 3" nails which would also required a doubled beam. Though there is no code for mini barns.

[@gordonchapman222]

@@Davesdiy 👍

[@samuelemeryjiujitsu]

This is probably dumb, but why are you cutting your 4x4 in half? you mean in half by height?

[@Davesdiy]

Yes, by height. I don't need them 8' tall as they just support the base and have nothing to do with the walls.

[@samuelemeryjiujitsu]

@@Davesdiy Thanks Dave. These videos are really helpful.

[@dmkenosis8155]

Hi Dave, as a novice your video was very clear and easy to understand. Thank you! Any considerations for building something like this in Arizona?

[@Scorpiomaj27889]

What's the recommended number of posts for a large shed, like 10x16? I'll be storing my residential riding mower in there, rear will be 3 feet above grade.

[@Davesdiy]

Google "Span Tables", it will answer all your questions. Since my shed is basically sitting on grade (1/2" above) I stretched the "recommended" spans a bit.

[@williambaker1576]

Decked out in full on dad gear! I swear, I had to do a double take, for a second thought my dad faked his death to go build minibarns on youtube.

[@charleyandsarah]

Nice progress. Wish we could've helped you dig those holes with our auger. What is your opinion on tamping post holes with soil? Thanks for the video.

[@Davesdiy]

Slowvannah Farms Works just as good, especially with that Georgia clay, the footer is what holds everything up on a building. An auger would spoil me, I'd start digging hole just because I might need them one day. Thanks for watching.

[@charleyandsarah]

Dave's DIY Oh yeah, I understand the footer thing. I just meant posts by themselves, say for a fence. Lol at digging holes. We learned the hard way that it can be bad to drill too far ahead of time.

[@Davesdiy]

Slowvannah Farms Fences are different than a pier foundation (which this mainly is). Fences its more about depth, you want at least 1/3 of your post buried. Your catio is fine, there is little to no lateral load on a chain link fence, if the corner post survived the fence being stretched all is well. Just as an in general. I don't pour footers for fences, 6' privacy goes down 30", 50lbs (80lbs if its out in the open with no wind breaks) of concrete, top with gravel. Picket fence, depth depends on height, gravel or compacted dirt. Chain link, if metal post concrete or hammer/push it in; if wooden install it just like a picket.

[@crpth1]

Slowvannah Farms - Personally I prefer to deep the posts in used engine oil+diesel and set them with gravel. But occasionally used soil, as a general rule of thumb they will last a bit less due to more moist retention. Honestly it will all depend on the particular condition of the place where the post is set. If water tend to accumulate in that particular spot, no wood will survive whatever the treatment. Many times two post set side by side, one will rotten away and the other will be perfect. A piece of PVC pipe with a cap makes a perfect container to deep the posts in oil. Let them soak for some time, take them aside and let it "dry". For a few posts it's perfect. For huge quantities you'll want some other container. ;-)

[@workshopredraven]

Здравствуйте! Почему на фундамент вы использовали деревянный брус? В земле он сгниет весьма быстро. Лайк за труд!

[@phonemd1]

do you need to put anything under the foundation? like plastic? it looks like untreated lumber. ???

[@Davesdiy]

The 4x4's are ground contact rated, the joists and plywood are standard pressure treated because they don't contact the ground. They don't look pressure treated because I buy pressure treated wood at least a month before I plan to use it so it has a chance to dry out. Saves a lot of wear and tear on the back.

[@xVLADx47]

Great. Thanks I'm gonna do one tomorrow u made it look so easy

[@michaeld_68]

Personally I think the gravel is best for drainage as well .

[@fatal510]

Did he just pour dry concrete mix down a hole? What the hell is the point of that. Then put rocks on top? I have no idea what i am talking about, but I've also never see that done before and i spend hours every day watching construction videos as a hobby.

[@Darfail]

hey there Dave! thanks for the video! isnt there a risk that water will just accumulate between the gravel and freeze at that shallow depth?

[@Davesdiy]

That's kind of the point of using gravel, when it freezes it moves the gravel not the barn. The footer is below the frost line supporting the barn, the more mother nature moves the gravel around the tighter it all locks together. Using gravel fill kind of isolates the structure from the surrounding earth allowing it to shrink and expand thru the seasons with no effect on the structure itself. If you pour a footer, let it dry, then set your posts and concrete them in, frost heave will lift the barn up off the footer. If you set your posts and pour concrete around it (even if you flair the base) frost heave is going to move your barn around. I don't know where you live, so doing it this way may or may not work for you. In Indiana, for a mini barn, doing it this way would be considered over kill. "Professionally constructed and Installed" mini barns here use 2x3's 24" on center construction then they sit them on grade on some treated 4x4's. They guarantee them for 3 to 5 years but that's about how long it takes before mother nature starts swallowing it into the ground.

[@Darfail]

Dave's DIY Thanks for the reply! I need as strong a foundation as possible while maintaining convenience and ease of building in the middle of the forest as I want to build a strong 8' x 18' x 14' high structure which can withstand full snow loads in Canada and I was looking for the best approach - I just need something that can take the weight and be stable over the winters ( 4 ft freezing line...). Your approach seems interesting... do you think it would be improved by sleeving the posts and pouring the gravel around them? And should I try to keep water out of the gravel by covering the hole with something?

[@Davesdiy]

I have no idea how Canada works, sorry. If concerned follow housing or pole barn codes up there. That will definitely be over kill for a mini barn. As for your questions, I've never used sleeving, I have coated the posts in roofing tar, other than making a mess I'm not convinced it does much, others swear by it. Covering the gravel won't keep water out, ground water will seep in from the sides and below. The gravel will allow the water to as quickly as possible drain away from your posts (as opposed to just dirt).

[@Darfail]

Dave's DIY Thanks a lot for the tips.

[@readtheinstructions1407]

DB I'm from New York State, and I've been doing 4.5 feet depth with 6 inches of stone then an 8 inch drain waste and vet pipe with stone back fill. The pipe keeps dirt filtering through the stone and getting to the treated post while the stone keeps the water flowing out. Seems to be fine, not sure about long term.

[@MattLaneWoodshop]

Looking good Dave!

[@Davesdiy]

Lane Bros WoodShop Thanks.

[@user-xt1vs2oz3b]

Are those floor joists touching the ground?

[@Davesdiy]

Nope. If I recall correctly, closest is about 1", farthest is about 9" above grade

[@gabrielgonzales8163]

buenos.videos construccion

[@Bowamaketona]

Do you have gravel under the post or just around it squeezing it

[@Davesdiy]

Concrete under the posts for a footer, gravel around it squeezing it.

[@diannecleveland123]

Set 4"x4" water level notch 4"x4" @ 1-1/2" to receive 2"x8" ledger set 2"x6"on top of 2"x8" no metal and strong in sheer.

[@Davesdiy]

That would put the floor 13 - 14" above grade unless I excavated the 2x8 below grade. I didn't want it sitting that high, nor did I want to do the excavation as is stated in the description.

[@basuramanya]

In your experience when would you need a center post to take extra weight?

[@Davesdiy]

Dan aka Basuraman In general, this is a mini-barn. If used for what it is designed to be used for, as long as you use span tables that a house would be built to, in most cases you will be over building the structure. So storing your riding mower, tiller, rakes, hoes, shovels and the like. You will be fine. Start storing wet fire wood in the barn and your floor is going to collapse as you can hit the 10's of thousands of pounds mark really quick. You need to add center posts AND A BEAM when you exceed the maximum span of the desired height of your floor. All that being said, since my supporting beams on the ends are 2 2x6's each side should have a 3rd post in the center as 2 2x6's used as beams max span is 5'. So why didn't I add the extra posts? Because the majority of it is sitting 1/2" above the ground slopping to about an inch over a 2 foot span, so even at extreme deflection it is going to bottom out against the ground long before a joist fails. Since I will only be using this for my mower and what not, it is never going to see that extreme deflection. Take this same structure and put it on a moderate hill and I would have added the extra post on the down hill side. This same structure and I want it a foot off the ground and there would be 3 posts per side. I know that's not a real good answer to your question, but every foundation is different, so there is no one answer. Once this project is complete I'll be including a quick and dirty span table chart along with the plans. If in doubt build your foundation to that and you won't have any worries about extra weight. As long as you use your mini-barn for it's intended purpose.

[@pmitchell6328]

Most older people are building something like this, out with the head banging music so I can concentrate!

[@gabrielgonzales8163]

construccion work #1

[@Idonfwno1]

Title: mini barn Me: wow dam that's a Tiny barn!

[@mucahitduzgun]

1000. Subscriber