How to build a Warré beehive at low cost by David Heaf - sustainable bee-keeping UK

Dr David Heaf, UK Warre Beekeeper, Author of "The Bee-friendly Beekeeper", and other publications and books, Natural Beekeeping Teacher and Speaker. Wales, Great Britain.(www.bee-friendly.co.uk)
© 2013 vidéo Jan Michael - rucher école Villa le Bosquet,France
plus d'infos ; apiculturenaturelle.fr

[@MohammedAslamtit-bitsoflife]

Dr. David, thank you very much for explaining in detail and also providing the book.

[@gimmieshelter1597]

Best video about "how to build a Warré...." Muchas gracias y salud from Spain.

[@jwatterg]

Your bicycle trailer is amazing! Thanks for the video!

[@onewomanslife]

Thanks from Canada! This was so interesting.

[@hagensteele4447]

Thanks for the upload dude! Best to you and yours from far, far away.

[@RobertoBauzini]

Most excellent video. Very informative.

[@jcomm120]

Great details, thanks very much!!

[@user-sc9bk8hc8x]

Ий рәхмәт, һәр бер әйткән сүзе бик тә аңнашылды.

[@tstran02]

Thank you so much!

[@Jenny-hc1ex]

Hello, thank you for this great video. Next year, I will also start with the Warré. Pretty well explained

[@VictorFursov]

Thank you for Video about WARRE beehives! Very interesting! :) Best spring beekeeping greetings from UKRAINE ! :)

[@ruchebio]

thanks Victor best greetings from Normandy Jan

[@VictorFursov]

Good luck! :)

[@brick813]

Dr Victor Fursov - Entomologist & Beekeeper TV a

[@abellotambfiblo3937]

thanks !!!!

[@pppeea]

Also David, as i'm using (salvage off cuts of ) vollige board (they have a half lap tongue at the top and bottom) is there any problem if i put a support baten in for the slats. I like the idea of using these boards as the boxes fit over each other for stability (it gets very windy here in the Gers)

[@emill.3562]

perfect!

[@industrialchristian7453]

The book is mentioned at the end of the video. I say “The Book” deliberately. If I could only choose three books from my Library of fifty. This would be one of them.

[@skaramicke]

Tip: Exterior house paints. They’re made to last decades.

[@ozric4122]

Great information... How old is that keyboard ;)

[@marc8688]

Good explanation to build the Warré, thanks only one question, how do you waterproof the feederbox? use wax or ?

[@brysonezekiel9837]

i guess Im randomly asking but does anyone know a tool to get back into an instagram account..? I stupidly lost the password. I appreciate any help you can give me

[@eddieremington370]

@Bryson Ezekiel instablaster =)

[@brysonezekiel9837]

@Eddie Remington i really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff now. Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.

[@brysonezekiel9837]

@Eddie Remington It did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy! Thank you so much, you saved my account!

[@eddieremington370]

@Bryson Ezekiel You are welcome :)

[@pppeea]

I'm a fellow Welshman now living in the south of France. I'm in the process of building my 1st Warre hive. Can you please let me know where the feeder box sits. I'm pre-suming under the hessian box.

[@2adamast]

The feeder replaces the cushion

[@cabanadomorro2000]

Very good! How can I get the war construction manual?

[@ruchebio]

you can buy Davids book under www.northernbeebooks.co.uk/products/heaf-natural-beekeeping-with-the-warre-hive/

[@ShelliG]

What do you do instead of the gloss paint, I missed it :)

[@florianpertynski5868]

I haven't heard either, but it could be something like *linseed varnish*: it penetrates the wood (need to apply at least twice and heat it up a bit) and leaves the natural look of the wood. Dr Heaf's hive is all silvered wood, so it could be that. (in any case, I use linseed varnish + 2 layers of gloss but maybe that's overdoing it...)

[@daniel4647]

@@florianpertynski5868 Yes, I'd also recommend linseed oil if anyone is still wondering 7 years later lol

[@mrlucifero]

Can you build warrè hive out of exterior plywood?

[@airwolf61970]

mrlucifero Exterior plywood? No treated wood should be used!

[@mshakz6006]

How to riaring bee queen

[@uzakufuklar2415]

01:42 What is the purpose of this box?

[@mmb_MeAndMyBees]

Captures Moisture... and then let's it Wick Away. And is also an Internal under Roof Insulation System... 🐝

[@mhmd1381]

نحتاج الترجمه

[@bamabeesqueens]

Why do you drive a nail through the frame?

[@daniel4647]

Just to keep it in place so it's evenly spaced and doesn't get pushed to close to the one next to it or even falls down. This one stick is a lot lighter than a full frame that has a full sheet of starter wax and metal wire and everything so it gets easily pushed around. Personally I prefer to just make slots in the box though since I like being able to lift them out and check them easily. Or like he pointed out in the video you can use a nail but drill a tiny hole that's slightly larger than the nail and then you get the same functionality as making slots for the frames.

[@jasperwilliams3154]

I don't want to sit and complain, I'm sure in your situation, this must work or you wouldn't waste time doing it, but you must not have much in the way of hive pestilence where you are or you're fighting a lot of them we're not hearing about? When you build or purchase a hive - _especially in the Midwest - US,_ the first thing you have to do is eliminate ALL, cracks, crevices runways/seems, etc in the assemblies? Even the end cuts of plywood and grooves in any component, including the rails - have to be plugged up. That roof with all your little shavings would become an absolute nightmare, especially for hive beetles, wax moths, spiders, ants and just about everything else that destroys a hive. There's just way too many places throughout the whole hive that would become instant problems. We can't even leave standard, metal covered covers as they are when purchased? Which is usually a folded over and nailed tin or aluminum sheeting, tacked to the primary wood cover. We take them in, and systematically plug, via propolis or caulk every seem, crack and crevice with coats of paint, including where the tin meets the wood. If you don't, critters of every kind will take up residence until they've overpopulated the space they've infested, then they'll move into the primary hive, at which point, it's usually too late to help the bees. This is the problem with every hive though, not just these. You mentioned using *_treated lumber?_* That's a serious NO-NO - that is, if you're after pure honey and healthy bees? Painted or not, the toxins will leach out of treated lumber no matter what you do with it. It's astonishing we're building toxic waste dumps in this day of supposed, "enlightened" humanity *_(laughable-lie)_* - for playgrounds, swing-sets, decks etc., for our children pets and loved ones to play and hang out on? You said when it reached "high 20's" bees suffered? That's not even 90 degrees _(F)_? We're dealing with months of 90-110 degrees? Can't imagine what would happen? As soon as the temps reach 60 _(F)_ through the evenings, we switch to screen bottoms, or they'll roast. The comb begins to darken, after a while, it'd be nigh black, and begin taking on a foul odor, so much so, the bees won't even eat it if they're starving in the winter. We have a shade tree/bush for each hive to block afternoon sun - they'd leave had we not put them in. We have a filtered 1000 gal pond with a special designed waterfall for the bees access within a 100 ft of the apiary and it's a constant super-highway of bees zinging back and forth sun-up to sun-down. I swear it seems we have to add a 100 gals a day in the summer? No, for people who don't use toxins and pest killers, this is not a good idea for where pests abound and temps roar over 100 degrees routinely, but it is a nice idea. - We often stick empty frames in our hives and the bees will fill them up before working on the boarded frames - that part we like - and yes, they can be spun, we do it all the time, even without wires. Anyway, felt it important to point that out to anyone thinking about investing a bunch of money or time in these things. It can be done, but as with everything in the apiary, it'll need to be seriously thought through and redesigned to fit each environment.

[@billiamc1969]

Here in Baltimore, the bees fill all the cracks and spaces with propolis. My colonies all have gabled tops where spiders and ants make their nests and live in harmony with the bees...no issues from spiders or ants. Beetles are a problem here but then again the bees here keep their population in check all year long.

[@danielsimchuk7562]

Jasper Williams sorry for such a late question, but I am just becoming interested in becoming a beekeeper any tips or recommendations on what I should read or things to consider? Would greatly appreciate any and all advice you have to offer as it would save me so much time thank you in advance!

[@arogue469]

@@danielsimchuk7562 Dr. Heaf's books are excellent. I don't think you'll find anything by Jasper Williams worth reading - particularly his comment here.

[@guardiandogoargentinos1385]

@@arogue469 His comment was very well informing and full of wisdom factually.

[@arogue469]

@@guardiandogoargentinos1385 substantiated by...?

[@diederichabels8119]

I did the same with Stodoys plans :)

[@cravensboughner2425]

I made it by myself. I used Woodprix woodworking plans for that.