How to change brake pads on a Land Rover Defender - step by step

[@lr95discov8]

Another great video as usual, here are a couple of tips. It’s a good idea to place the wheel under the the brake disc in case the jack fails, also you should open the split pins and bend each one outwards not bend them over together.

[@NextMeridianExpedition]

Understood thanks!

[@stevestott1514]

great informative video on over landing brake repair work . Thanks for sharing . Cheers from Steve Stott in Sutherlin Oregon U.S.A. :):)👍🏼

[@NextMeridianExpedition]

Thank you Steve !

[@jonny_wright]

Please buy an axle stand as I'm keen for this channel to continue! I carry two 2 tonne folding ones when travelling. At the very least put the wheel under the radius/trailing arm and don't put your head under the truck. Loving your videos.

[@NextMeridianExpedition]

Will be more careful thank you!

[@SaYeager]

If you take the lid off the master cylinder the pistons push in easier, just be sure to put a rag over the top or the brake fluid will squirt every where.

[@NextMeridianExpedition]

Will do thanks for the tip!! 😃

[@stog9821]

I notice you set some parts down on the dirt. A small plastic box to put the parts in while working would be useful, even if you are throwing them away later. It’s well known that small parts have personalities of their own and might crawl away or burrow out of sight unless kept confined.

[@patrick35400]

I THOUGH too, tourist!

[@NextMeridianExpedition]

Very true 😂 will do thanks!

[@tukocan]

It's nice that you guys uploaded this first time how to video, cause it allows us to give you pointers. Did you notice in the box for the brake pads that there are 4 pads? There are 4 for a reason, you are supposed to change pads per axle not per side. Now, how this video is edited I can only assume that the other side isn't done. If that is true please STOP the vehicle somewhere safely and replace the pads on the other side. You always change brake pads per axle because of breaking, you want even breaking along an axle, if the braking is uneven due to new pads on one side and worn on the other, you can cause the vehicle to go into a slide. Another point, after driving approx 100km re torque the wheel nuts. Because of heat differences between your wheel hub and rim the wheel nuts can loosen. Glad to see that you guys are learning to live with the Landy, safe travels.

[@NextMeridianExpedition]

I did the other side and checked the front 2 tires but didn’t need changing. Thanks for all the explanations and we did do it 😊

[@mjallenuk]

Great to take on tasks yourself and for future brakes just a few comments from someone who's changed an awful lot of brakes over the last 30 years. Brake cleaner not airline. Brake dust really really isn't nice stuff. Don't lever on the disc. It's surprisingly easy to warp/mar a disc and then you're into new disc territory. Replace the split/cotter pins. If these fail your pads come out and old pins do fail. Before you start remove the brake fluid reservoir cap. This will make it easier to push back the pistons and reduce overflow chances. Use a block or axle stand. Jacks fail. I've seen this and it was horrific. Just a few ideas for next time. As someone said you must do both sides unless it's an emergency get you safe thing. Really impressed considering you're learning. I've seen it done so badly the vehicle was un-drivable after! All the best both ☺

[@NextMeridianExpedition]

Hi Matt, Thanks for all that, if I understood properly, I use brake pad on the pistons to make them function properly again or brake cleaner is to clean out the area of the brake pads before putting new one in? What should I lever on to put pistons back? Or do I pass through the caliper with a wrench/screw driver and pull the piston directly on the piston? Will always change the pins.

[@mjallenuk]

Brake cleaner should be used to assist you cleaning the caliper and any oil contamination off your pads and discs. You also use it to dampen down the dust as you scrape the caliper down. Yes whatever you need to do to not lever on the disc. There are lots of specialist tools some of which require you to remove the caliper itself.

[@themissdior1235]

Loved the vid. Im rubbish at looking after my little car. The lovely man from the garage near me comes and picks it up and drops it off when it has been serviced. What can i say lol Ive enjoyed your vids you are both so down to earth and look forward to your journey. Sending much love from Scotland x

[@NextMeridianExpedition]

😁 thanks! And that’s a nice garage man to help you out like that

[@alansheach3528]

Thanks, great video. I have never changed the disc pads on my Defender either so for me this video was very useful.

[@NextMeridianExpedition]

Same for us! We had the footages from the episode so we thought: why not.

[@emilyfagan5415]

Great video! I agree with Mathilde, pump those breaks more!! - Emily Also, get yourself a small, bright bowl to hold your pins and screws, etc, in while you are working on things. So you do not lose them in the dirt. Also, I agree with Allen, below. Keep the tire under to protect yourself when you're under the car! - Trey

[@NextMeridianExpedition]

Thank you guys for those useful inputs! ;)

[@WannabeOverlander]

That was an easy job. I had a tight situation in Kazakhstan, when in the morning the surface of the rear brake shoe came off and the tire got stuck. A nearby spare parts store found spare parts on the shelf and I was able to repair it in that yard. That was my ”eurovan” autumn 2019.

[@NextMeridianExpedition]

Dang, sweet :)

[@Okierover]

Just in time on those pads! You got your money's worth from those! Takes me longer to jack up the car and get the tires off than to change the pads. Awesome job.

[@NextMeridianExpedition]

Thanks!

[@brucelumsden94]

Well done working on your vechile. The only thing I would suggest when working with a vechile jacked up is to have a secondary stand under the axle in the name of safety. People have been badly injured or killed when a vechile has come off a jack. My experience is mostly with agricultural equipment and Defender LRs.

[@NextMeridianExpedition]

Will do thank you! Learning on the way

[@lucioinacio4816]

Congratulations Dan you did a great job 👨‍🔧💪👏👏👏😜

[@NextMeridianExpedition]

Hahahaha

[@okokea4592]

Hi, Nice demonstration. But... As already mentionned by somebody else before : you shouldn't rely only on the hydraulic jack. To work safely under the car it should be secured with an additional device which holds the car even when the jack fails. I for myself push at least the wheel under the car but I'm aware that this isn't ideal. I've seen you use this hydraulic jack under the axle in former videos. To me the original LR jack seems to be already a little bit more stable as it is inserted into a sort of tube in the bumper. Even if the car moves a little bit it won't slide of the jack. For the readers who don't know Land Rover Defenders : contrary to the most other cars, the original LR jack isn't used from the side of the car but from either the front or the back side of the vehicle where it is directly inserted into the longitudinal beams (stringers?) of the chassis. The receiving holes for the jack are integrated into the bumpers and closed with a black piece of plastic. Concerning the breaks: it might be a good idea to verify not only their surface but also their thickness. As your car is always heavy loaded they could already be worn out. For safety reasons there is a minimum thickness to respect. Concerning the uneven wear of the break pads : I once had a similar problem on an old VW Bus T2 when I bought it. One break piston was completely stuck by corrosion. So each time I used the breaks the car tried to move sidewards as one wheel wasn't slowed down. To test : take the hands of the steering wheel and break heavily. If the car doesn't continue straight the cause might be a stuck break piston. Have a nice trip and thank you for the beautiful pictures : I was surprised by the Oregon landscape. I don't know your further travel plans but if possible you should spend some time on the 101 right along the Pacific Coast.

[@NextMeridianExpedition]

Hey, thanks for all that. I take all of that into consideration of course for my next brake pad job :) this is why I make these videos to help others but to learn too! And we did the 101 6 years ago so we’re doing the Midwest this round.

[@kevinsimmonds7082]

Good Job, I’ve had to do this many times,they wear out quick!

[@NextMeridianExpedition]

Yeah they do!

[@robertmilic8704]

Great DIY video. Love watching your travels. I wanted to comment on your uneven brake pad wear... the inner pad was down to metal while the outer pad looked almost new in thickness. You may want to confirm your caliper is not sticking, and you may want to apply some grease on the slide pins.

[@Defender110SLO]

There is no side pins just pistons.

[@robertmilic8704]

@@Defender110SLO - yes you are correct... those are anti-rattle springs with just pins to hold in place. The caliper is a double piston version. Seems to me that the inner piston is sticking.

[@NextMeridianExpedition]

Yeah next arriving we’ll get them checked! Thanks

[@defenderzook]

hi there.....due to the uneven wear on those pads.....(the outer was almost new and the inner was worn down to metal)......i would say the caliper will need an overhaul..... it seems only the inner piston is working.....the outer isnt doing much so you arent getting full braking..... other than that....good job....you got yourself out of trouble very cheaply..... ps....jacking up the back wheels renders the handbrake useless...you need to chock up the front wheels cos it can very easily fall off the jack...

[@NextMeridianExpedition]

Understood thanks!

[@vzmax]

Encore une bonne vieille bagnole où il suffit de repousser les pistons ! Dans les voitures récentes, il faut aujourd'hui des outils spéciaux, voire même un logiciel ! Là aussi, c'était mieux avant ! Juste un petit truc (mais peut-être que ça a été fait): lorsqu'on repousse les pistons il faut bien veiller à ce que le liquide hydraulique ne déborde pas de son réservoir car il est extrêmement corrosif et peut faire des dégâts dans le compartiment moteur.

[@NextMeridianExpedition]

Compris merci! 😊

[@nickward8887]

Did you check the other side brake pads as well? Be careful of the dust break dust particles...

[@NextMeridianExpedition]

Yes done all 4 tire checks, just filmed one time for KZbin.

[@rberkel1]

The brake pads were worn very unevenly. Outside pad almost no wear and inside completely worn. This indicates that the outer piston in stuck (common problem on the Defender brake calipers as they have no dust boots on the pistons). You need to free them up so they move easily in and out resulting in even brake pad wear on both brake pads. Before you push the pistons in make sure they are clean (small strip of cloth and some brake cleaner to clean them) because otherwise you might get dirt in the seals causing a leak or the dirt gets the piston stuck/not moving free. Apply a thin circular coat of copper grease to the back of the brake pad where the piston touches the pad. Prevents squeeking. Enjoy the travels in the US and further south!

[@brianludlow9104]

Hopefully you replace both the left and right sides. You normally replace both at the same time.

[@NextMeridianExpedition]

I did yes 😊

[@Phiyedough]

You might find the new ones don't last as long if that pad that wore down to the metal was damaging the surface of the disc. I've only worked on round discs but I normally file off any raised portion at the edge of the disc that is not swept by the pad. The same with brake drums, you need to file off any wear ridge at the outer edge as it can stop you from pulling the drum off next time.

[@NextMeridianExpedition]

Oh didn’t know, thanks for that! We’ll have it checked next servicing

[@coloradoridgerunner791]

Don't try and file any ridges on the rotor by hand, it needs to be put on a brake lathe. I wouldn't worry if there is a small ridge on the outer part of the rotor the only time you really need to worry about turning the rotor is when you have multiple ridges caused by the worn out pad. If you change the pads before they are completely worn out you'll very seldom have to have the rotors turned.

[@overlandready]

You have forgotten a few things! Thee are very important too. Grease! Use an anti-squeal compound like copperslide, it also helps stop the pads seizing in the caliper as well as reducing noise. clean and then work the piston as you heve/had a slow/semi-seized piston. Make sure you do everything in axle pairs, so the other brake also needs to be replaced whether working fine or not. Your or other people's lives depend on brakes working well, so unless you have had professional training or supervision DO NOT work on your own or anyone else's brakes, they are THE most important part of the vehicle! ( I'm a 30-year experienced, trained automotive engineer)

[@russmartin4189]

That was very easy. Usually, you do brakes by the pair. so you should do the other side too. Also, when a shop does them, they resurface the rotors. That makes them stop better and the pads wear more evenly. When the rotor gets thin, you will need to replace them. That is when a brake job becomes expensive. It appears Landrover has designed the brakes for easy repair while on the road or in a remote area. Most disk brakes require special tools to spread the caliper and remove the pads. You should get a repair manual for your vehicle and carry the parts most prone to break. I knew a famous photographer who used to drive his big Cadilla across the desert. He carried extra axles. What if you break down where there is no cell phone service and you cannot get any help on KZbin?

[@NextMeridianExpedition]

Gotcha, thanks for the tip. We’ll have the rotors checked next servicing

[@erwinthijs7574]

Open the brakefluid holder before you puch in the pistons mutch more easy

[@NextMeridianExpedition]

Understood thanks!!

[@josephkerr6955]

maybe late, but your caliper sliders look seized, only the piston side pad is worn.

[@Defender110SLO]

Sc soory Nick but your brake calipers are not working properly. The pistons shoud go out same and pads should be used same left and right. If you will go to some Land Rover garage you should look at brackes. Cheers to bolth of you. 🍷&🍺

[@NextMeridianExpedition]

Yeah I know, for wide maintenance I put WD40 to see if next time I check it helped. Otherwise I’ll add grease or oil to see if that works! But thanks for the lookout 😃

[@AstroVanTribe]

"Brake Pads" 🙂

[@NextMeridianExpedition]

Thank you Hahahah fixed !

[@AstroVanTribe]

@@NextMeridianExpedition 😁

[@markmitchell457]

Never ever put parts on the ground......ever!

[@StoltHD]

I hope you changed on the other side to...

[@NextMeridianExpedition]

Yes I did, and checked all 4 tires.

[@malcolmlee7817]

I am sure someone else has chimed in here already.. That said.. One can compress the caliper pistons using channel lock pliers [on the old worn pads first].. The spent pads can be removed with them as well. For example:images.thdstatic.com/productImages/5fb3c72e-c2da-496c-a03c-03fbec382cea/svn/channellock-all-trades-tongue-groove-pliers-440-64_1000.jpg When a pry tool is used, the disc can be damaged ... Your rear disc, has definitely been damaged on its inner surface & needs replacement, as the inner pad wore out completely, going metal on metal. When you DO change it out, the rear pad set will need replacement as well [again]. You are gonna love me, I know! Those 'side to side' pad pins should be held with a clip rather than a cotter pin as shown. www.mgcycle.com/images/atrex/01659130p.jpg Your vehicle's brake fluid should be changed/flushed .. every 2 years, as brake fluid absorbs moisture over time. This absorbed moisture can/will cause internal brake component corrosion, and this moisture can/will lower the boiling point of your old brake fluid. [I don't know what interval Land Rover says on this].. That last can be very, VERY serious, especially descending steep down grades. I probably need to watch further into your brake pad video, but if the left rear caliper was the only one wearing the inner brake pad disproportionately then it would logically follow that this caliper is likely sticking & should be considered for replacement. Kathie & I cheer you both on following your adventures with smiles on our faces. M&K

[@NextMeridianExpedition]

Thank you for all that and I’ll make the job much better next time I do them 😃 thanks for the tips! Learning as we go!