[HOW TO] Change Rear Differential Fluid on a 2019+ Silverado & Sierra(Axle Code SU7/SU8)

[@fondupot]

Make sure you check the video description for important information! And follow me on Facebook! facebook.com/fondupotsgarage

[@skunkedfishing7868]

Good video! Just a heads up for some people though my 2019 Silverado didn’t have a gasket but rather a thin red gasket made in the factory. Luckily the gasket did not peel off when I removed the cover so I was able to press the cover back over it with no leaks but I sure wish I had a gasket or gasket maker on hand because I was definitely not expecting to find what I did.

[@fondupot]

Thanks for watching. I’ve heard that about the gasket

[@kvasir40]

Nice thing about these magnetic plugs. I imagine, that while they do catch some minor metallic dust from normal wear, if one sees, during a fluid change, many large shards of metal shavings, that will immediately indicate there is a problem in that differential with degraded gears and needs to be checked and taken apart (cover) for inspection.

[@fondupot]

Yea it helps for sure. Unfortunately GM removed the drain plug from the rear differential sometime mid 2018. So my 2019 GMC Canyon doesn’t have one. Luckily the fill port still has a magnet.

[@gregsobek722]

Good morning buddy! Those plastic bags are the greatest invention. So much easier than those plastic bottles. Hope you are having a dandy weekend brother 😉

[@fondupot]

Yea they make filling axles super easy. Thanks for watching!

[@rickschwartz2447]

Amsoil was the first to come out with those bags I love them

[@hyperion2005]

Excellent video short and sweet. Thanks for posting

[@fondupot]

Cheers thanks for watching!

[@njriedl]

I have a 2021 Silverado with the max tow package. Has the 9.76 axle. Is this still the same process before I start digging into it?

[@fondupot]

@@njriedl should be more or less the same yes.

[@abkothar123]

Excuse me, I have a 2019 Tahoe. After how many kilometers should I change and replace the differential oil?

[@fondupot]

I typically recommend every 50,000 miles under normal circumstances.

[@abkothar123]

@@fondupot THANKS

[@pawel7875]

Great video, I did notice that you didn't use any thread lock, GM calls for it as per service, but not many people use it, as this is a great debate . How is it holding up? - thanks.

[@fondupot]

Been fine. No issues whatsoever. Thanks for watching.

[@Atouk]

I've been twisting wrenches for 4+ decades, and I've never used a thread locker, ever. Correctly torquing a bolt will prevent it from coming loose. It's the same practice for doing my own oil changes. I correctly "hand-tighten" the filter, and then snug the drain plug with a wrench. I bottom out the plug, and then give it a small uggadugga. They've never come loose.

[@fondupot]

Giddy up.

[@MrSmurf459]

How often should one do this service? Doesn’t seem like a difficult job, but there is no recommendation in the manual, which baffles me!

[@fondupot]

I like to do the differentials every 45000-50000 miles.

[@MrSmurf459]

@@fondupot ok, I just did my transfer case so I’ll do both of these as well!

[@fondupot]

Good idea! I do all three together usually.

[@sncconway]

I changed the fluid on my 2020 Silverado 1500 yesterday and it didn't have a reusable gasket. Be prepared to buy a gasket when you remove the cover. I had to order one.

[@fondupot]

Really? What was the gasket made out of? my truck is a 2022, had the reusable gasket...

[@sncconway]

@@fondupot it looks and feels like hard cardboard. I don’t know what the material is.

[@fondupot]

Strange. Not sure why it was like that.

[@TSully7409]

I just opened my rear differential on my 2019 Silverado and I didn’t have a reusable gasket either. Had to wait for one I ended up ordering online.

[@sectech221]

@@fondupotMy 2020 LT Trail Boss has the same gasket your truck has. I had to get mine at my local dealership, and the guy showed me in his computer that the rear diff gasket is a one time gasket. My thing is, with how well made they are why cant i reuse it? Or at least why do they suggest we dont reuse it? Im assuming its a money grab ordeal.

[@stickdeathboy89]

About to do it on my AT4

[@maldo72]

thumbs up and subbed .... question why are you changing the gear oil with only 50,000 miles on it?

[@fondupot]

Preventative maintenance. I like to do diffs, transfer case and transmission every 50,000. Will make the truck last a lot longer and have less issues down the road. Also the factory fluid is not synthetic. Thanks for watching!

[@maldo72]

@@fondupot ok I see yes I like to use all synthetic once the truck has a few miles on it.. also just picked up a 2023 WT traded in my 2022 nissan frontier (I was not happy with that truck) .... your channel caught my eye with the cluster change video and have been trolling your channel for more info lol ... great info thx

[@fondupot]

Right on thanks for watching. Enjoy your new truck!

[@sncconway]

My thought is that the oil/fluid becomes like sandpaper because of the metal particles that build up in it. Routine fluid changes remove the particles and should prolong the life of the metal. I just changed my rear diff fluid on a 2020 Chevy Silverado 1500 and the fluid was very dirty. The magnet had a lot of particles on it.

[@MrSmurf459]

@@sncconway how much miles you had on your Chevy?

[@Jprostudios]

I just bought a 2011 Chevy Express with this same diff cover. It had a leak from the diff cover so I got a gasket from the auto parts store and followed your instructions (although, my gasket was paper and the one that was on it was paper). It was still leaking so I got a second gasket and tried again (still paper, it's what the autoparts store told me was correct). STILL LEAKING! Where do I find a rubber one like you are using? I'm tempted to RTV this thing on there and forget about it! If you have any idea where I can find that exact gasket, please let me know. I've been looking all over online and can't find one like that.

[@Jprostudios]

Correction, I just noticed mine is the 14 bolt and yours is only 12. I'd still love to find a rubber gasket though if you have any idea where to find one.

[@fondupot]

I’d say you’re better off using RTV. I don’t know if GM makes a rubber gasket for your 14 bolt.

[@sncconway]

What do you use to clean the gasket? I've never been sure if break cleaner would be to harsh.

[@fondupot]

I just wiped it down with a shop towel. I feel like brake cleaner might degrade the rubber.

[@sncconway]

@@fondupot Thanks

[@altokers]

what did you use to clean it before putting it back on?

[@fondupot]

Brake clean.

[@toymachine2328]

Did you take a look at the side, or "spider" gears? I've heard some of the locker gears have a cosmetic issue in that the ends of the teeth aren't fully filled, but the contact pattern is okay, so they should be functionally adequate. Now I'm curious how close to the textbook ideal differential gears and other automotive components really are.

[@fondupot]

I didn’t look that hard. My truck doesn’t have the G80 locker tho. Standard open diff.

[@Cat-cp1jo]

Hey brother, are you using the AC Delco service manual? I’m trying to do some work on my pops truck…he’s got a 2019 Silverado Crew Cab LTZ…build sheet says it’s got the SU7- Axle RR with GU5-Rear Axle 3.23 Ratio and the G80-Differential, Auto Locking Rear…the front differential is the SU4…it’s also got NQH-2 speed electronic transfer case. Was planning on going with Amsoil on the front and rear diff it’s a 75W-90 gear oil, just not too sure whether to add any friction modifier to the front and rear diffs since it’s a G80, but it’s also got the 2 speed transfer case with the 4HI,4LO and Auto buttons…you got any advice?

[@fondupot]

I am using an online service manual. The website I use is alldata.com Don't use any friction modifier in the G80 equipped rear end. You can use a fluid that says its already in it...but do not add any additional LS additive. I have a GMC Canyon with the G80, and I run a 75W90 fluid without any LS additive. OEM AC Delco always works great.

[@Cat-cp1jo]

@@fondupot appreciate the advice…I’ll check the site out, thanks!

[@fondupot]

@@Cat-cp1jo Glad to help.

[@stevesherlock5334]

@@Cat-cp1joI would still go with the severe gear from amsoil. I dropped the oem fluid at 60k on my last truck and it was black thin swamp water. Luckily I didn’t wait until 100k like the manual stated.

[@Cat-cp1jo]

@@stevesherlock5334 ya, I’m gonna go with the Amsoil severe gear 75W-90 on the front and rear diff and Amsoil signature series fuel efficient ATF in the transfer case…get all that break in material out of the system. Probably end up taking the truck to the dealership to get the transmission taken care of, but not to excited about them working on the truck

[@Ryanmatthewseltzer]

Where do you find your torque specs

[@fondupot]

I have a service manual.

[@Ryanmatthewseltzer]

@Fondupot's Garage and where does one aquire such knowledge

[@fondupot]

I just learned it over time.

[@marconi306]

For these that might think that changing the differential fluid on ANY trucks or even SUVs that allows you to do it, then here is my “2 cents”. I have been doing ALL my maintenances on all my vehicles in the last 20+ years pretty vigorously, and all I can tell is this: Don’t be cheap and try to save a buck here and there. It is NOT the best course of thinking while you add each and every day more expenses to your needs lists ready to crumble on your shaky budget, metaphorically speaking. With some other words, it is cheaper to do the maintenance way earlier and more regularly, then going in the repair shops and get a shocking truth/bills about the potential damage/s, let alone that many of these shops out there are NOT your best friends and these repair bills are a real problem most of the time for your “shaky budget”, again!!!. I do it myself because I am doing it a better job, AND I know for fact that, that particular “job”, was done, and that I use the good quality fluids or whatever the needs might be, on top of allowing a lot of time for these tasks and without “cutting corners”, as you may know what I mean. There is NO shop out there in my opinion, that will let ANY of your dirty fluids drains for hours, bottom line, while all or almost all the nasty gunks gets out, besides cleaning yourself all these differential gears if you would like too. So, putting back the pan nice any correct instead of rushing and stripping the fitments, etc, as well as forget to put back some of these screws, or even put a wrong fluids, or less fluids, due to busy shops and/or dudes that don’t give a rat about your own property, you get the message. OR, sometimes don’t even perform the job/s at all, but charges you a lot of money, sending you in your way as a happy “camper”….things that happened in the past or might even still happening too as we speak, due to the shadiness of some of these places out there, as many of some of you already experienced such “nightmares” in my opinion, metaphorically speaking once again too, based on my own experience as well, while being present and “rubbed” in front of my eyes. So, don’t be lazy and/or “fancy”, therefore try to do it yourself since you will have a lot more satisfaction/s vs letting someone do it. And if you are a woman then tell your hubby or your boyfriend to do the damn thing since it is NOT that complicated regardless any of such maintenance. I am NOT a mechanic or any type of auto technician whatsoever, and I did way more complicated maintenance jobs that I never ever thought that I could be able to do, BUT that is thanks to KZbin these days, and therefore you can do pretty much everything. Just pay attention, screen shot each and every step of the job, and put back everything the same as you took them out. I am pretty sure that you will NOT screw up in that process if enough attention to details was there and followed. I own diesel trucks in the last 17+ years, and did almost each and every maintenance myself one by one. From Both differentials jobs every 15000 miles, transfer case 30000 miles, greasing axels 10000 miles, changing the diesel filters every 10000 miles, water separator every 10000 miles, transmission services every 30000 miles, cleaning the EGR Valve and EGR Cooler 50000 miles, to rotating tires 7500 miles, and installing so many after market parts, as well as changing myself the turbo actuator on my 2017 Ram 2500HD 6.7L Cummins with a aftermarket part. Yes getting dirty it is not fun at all, and the time that I spend doing all these things too, but, my satisfaction was immense, and I know that everything was done for sure 100% AND without cutting corners, and also that I use good “parts”, perhaps better than OEM recommended. However, please DON’T get complacent and let these “intervals” go way over the board, since you got tired of doing it, and that it can wait another 5000-10000 or even 20000 miles more. That is a big mistake. The diesel filter it is as much as important as you can imagine since the whole assembly and the filtration as well as the contaminations afterwards, can be “deadly” to your engine, and then good luck with the rest. The water separator is as much as equal. The Differentials too, since these “wear and tear” metal particles will destroy your gears very easily and then you get at some point a broken teeth inside the hub, so I don’t have to portray here what that means for your power train, while the wear can go pretty sever in time too if not done preventively. Transfer case too. I would NOT let ANY differential fluid go over 20000 miles in my opinion, even with a deep pan and/or after market differential cover changed, and which allows you to add an extra fluid, in my opinion again, since at that mileage the fluid it is so dirty and has impurities resembling wear and tear particles that are nothing but a “rough paper/sand paper” whatever you want to call it. Not to mention that these pans are easily accessible and the job take less time since you drain the fluid from the drain plug vs unscrewing bolts over and over again. That goes the same with the transmissions too, therefore DO NOT let that transmission fluid go over 30000 miles the most, while all the gears inside will get pretty wear too, let alone the torque converter assembly too. Now, IF you don’t care about the vehicle and that you don’t plan to keep the vehicle in question, then do what you want to do. However, IF you don’t want to pay another $50k to $70+k for a new truck, since you don’t want to buy a junk from someone else for the price of new one, then carry on with that “reckless mentality” and then find out that the repairs are pretty damn expensive and NOT worth it the previous laziness… I bought only brand new trucks and I ONLY service them myself. Never had a single issue in which I could NOT fix it myself. Good luck!! Cheers!!

[@fondupot]

Church.