How to change rear shock absorbers on VW PASSAT B6 [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]

[@HassanAli-nz5om]

Very good 👍 clear video

[@binthegrove]

Thanks for great videos as always, question though (as others have mentioned) that 21mm is a beast to remove, I was able to remove it with a pipe extension for the drivers side as I could put weight on it, but now that I go to put the new shock on that bolt doesn't want to go back in and there is no way pushing up with the same force as I did down with weight. Any suggestions? It starts but after a it's in about a 1/4 the way it just doesn't move anymore

[@autodocuk]

Thank you for your feedback! First of all, you need to make sure that threads on a bolt and subframe are not damaged and that both of them are in a proper condition. After that align lower shock absorber holes with a hole on a subframe using a jack stand. It will enable you to move parts without putting a lot of pressure on them. Regards, Autodoc!

[@binthegrove]

@@autodocuk Thanks! I checked threads that same night I could see nothing, they looked perfect. I bought new ones form dealer, and it went in no problem. And yes they're beast to get off especially with the rust in Minnesota but if you take your time it's doable.

[@wheelstandr]

@@binthegrove I'm also in Minnesota. Not sure if this is the same as my 2012 B7 to replace. I just changed out the lugnuts and had to chase the threads with a tap. I'm probably going to suffer on that 21mm too. I'll just buy a couple new bolts like you did before I start. I'm hoping the rattle I'm hearing going over bumps in the rear is my spare tire/jack instead. Will be checking in the morning. Just here to see what I'm up against if its the shocks.

[@FaithisKey792]

Amazing and thank you. God bless you all.

[@autodocuk]

Thank you for sharing your opinion with us.

[@bEEBO178]

Its all well and good with no rust! I've seen threads totally welded with rust and impossible to remove using normal tools like this

[@autodocuk]

Thank you for the feedback! We are glad that our tutorial was helpful for you. Your opinion and remarks are very important for us. We will take them into consideration for our next tutorial. Best regards, Autodoc.

[@mleite2006]

Great video. Well done job.

[@xsiemicwavex]

You must have superhuman strength because that 21mm is impossible to remove. I broke my 20" breaker bar in half, along with two fingers!!!

[@autodocuk]

Thank you for the feedback! We hope that our tutorial was helpful for you. Stay tuned and follow our latest updates. Best regards, Autodoc.

[@MailmanWilly79]

Did you ever get it off? if so, how? I tried impact guns and a three foot breaker and almost snapped it. Threw my back out pretty good too!

[@shimon2476]

@@autodocuk What kind of fucking reply is that the guy said he broke 2 fingers

[@emmanuelankamah4977]

is all the bolt right threads? and also is it posible for it to break?

[@raj-cr4nl]

I cannot get that lower bolt off. Good luck to anyone attempting this.

[@nateo2131]

SO TRUE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I am so sick of my Passat. NEVER (yes, never) VW again.

[@Ryanbell1361]

2 extensions and a breaker bar? Probably 1000 times easier with the car on a lift

[@crapaputa]

@@nateo2131 Agree. Never a VW again! A nightmare engineering. Bolt too close to the spring; front control arm bolt hitting engine's oil pan on passenger side and AT oil pan on the driver side. To replace vacuum pump one needs to drop transmission or use a trick with pivoting the taken apart pump around AT bolt. Everything is made intentionally so that one has to take the car to the dealer for the most elementary jobs. I had Toyota before and my next car will be a Toyota.

[@artramirez3506]

With the car on the lift, the suspension is at full drop so the spring isn't as compressed so it gives you a little bit more room. Good luck.

[@ollysimpson103]

That 21mm was a pig to get off. Eventually had to disconnect the bottom arm to release it. Total nightmare

[@scottlees4860]

Are you the incredible hulk that 21mm is SOLID

[@autodocuk]

Thank you for the feedback! Yes, you are right, it's 21mm.Best regards, Autodoc.

[@raj-cr4nl]

I can't get mine off!

[@MailmanWilly79]

So glad to hear you say that, mine won't budge either. Tried two different size impact wrenches, a three foot breaker bar, PB Blast and bashing it with a hammer! Did you ever get it off? I'm thinking of cutting out a piece of the bottom of the strut below the bolt and getting that out of the way so it hopefully exposes some of the threads...

[@crapaputa]

I found it impossible to remove lower bolt shown at minute 1:05. A different approach is shown in kzbin.info/www/bejne/qnmsk2tmbLWagtE Still too much work for a rear shock absorber. Awful german engineering. I will never buy a german car again (see also video on how to replace front control arm on driver side - you will understand what I mean).

[@williamela3340]

had to take multiple rounds of wd-40 and a blowtorch to get that 21mm off

[@autodocuk]

Thank you for your feedback ! Unfortunately, each car requires particular replacement and everything depends on an engineering status of car parts units. Our videos are informative as to the replacement sequence. Best regards, Autodoc.

[@Mod-rw9cw]

Try getting that bottom bolt off on a 10 yr old car. You need heat and more heat and a bionic man to release it.

[@autodocuk]

Each step of replacement is quite unique when do a car repair, hence we cannot show all problems you might face when replacing. Moreover it is not so easy to handle them yourself at home. To avoid this, we always recommend specialized car services.

[@raj-cr4nl]

Just an FYI, I HIGHLY suggest you get long handle closed end wrench that is 0 degree offset. The bottom shock bolt is a bitch so you need leverage, ESPECIALLY if you do not have a lift like me. Otherwise, not a hard job.

[@raj-cr4nl]

I had to CAREFULLY jump on my 21mm long wrench and it broke loose eventually. Didnt use heat or penetrant oil.

[@cabevani]

Torq specs?

[@autodocuk]

You can find this information in the technical documentation for repairing your car.

[@1.abinarkanaelfayruz588]

reques Replace a Rear Shock Mount chevrolet spin

[@autodocuk]

Thank you for the feedback! If you are interested in a any spare part for your car, you can contact a specialist of our company. Best regards, Autodoc.

[@TT-it6cr]

Am i to assume that none of the bolts need to be torqued up??? Nope!!!

[@autodocuk]

Thank you for your feedback! All the bolts must be torqued up in conformity with the Factory Regulations for tightening moment, none of bolts should be left unfixed. Best regards, Autodoc.

[@MaxThirty6]

im sorry but that lower shock bolt to the hub is 180nm

[@peetayebay]

Do you have a video for the front shocks

[@autodocuk]

Thank you for the feedback! We are currently working on creating a wider range of tutorials including those that you mentioned. Stay tuned and follow our latest updates. Best regards, Autodoc.

[@anonymous6694]

it really is pretty identical. No difference at all by the looks of it

[@ianpurcell7266]

Did he actually use an impact gun on the top two bolts.Torqued none of the three bolts. Clearly also has a shortage of off set tools to tighten and loosen the lower bolt.Christ in heaven give me strength to deal with fools like him. Either do it right or don't do it at all.