How to check your nuts - making a digital nut slot gauge

Here is a tongue in cheek guide to making a nut slot gauge. If you can get past the school boy humour, then you may find this useful in making a device to measure the height of strings above the first fret to ensure that your nuts are well presented.
Here are links to the 3D printing files that I made for this project and to the dial indicator I purchased. I don't endorse this particular indicator other than to say it was low cost and it worked for me once adapted.
nahguitars.com/NAH_Guitars_To...
You can find out more about my other guitar projects by visiting my web site and social media.
Website - www.NAHGuitars.com​
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Facebook - / nahguitars​​

[@zitnbit]

I just watched andertons prs factory tour video. And they are using neoteck indicator. Interesting.

[@markgitarista]

Thank you ❤

[@redstrat1234]

That was excellent. Thinking of having a go myself. Think I'd cut down the lower part of the probe with a dremel and configure the gauge and base so that it is set up to work longitudinally on the neck rather than across. I work on my guitars from the side usually, so reading it from the side would be more convenient and the base could be shorter, longer and narrow - maybe 2 inches long with an arch/gap in the sides so that it straddles the fret and gives access to see where the probe is resting, and possibly half an inch wide with another arch up the middle to straddle the string. It's got possibilities. (a narrower longitudinal gauge may also help to get readings in the playing position) Another thought was - imagine a large 'M' - the gauge is secured in the middle, and the legs/feet support it. The legs could be canted so that the front leg goes across the string and sits on the right hand side of the string to be measured and the rear leg sits on the left of the string - a sort of diagonal/chicane, like this bad illustration, but without that middle top bit sticking out '_/--' Or possibly have a sort of inverted 'Y' arrangement in the feet of the 'M' so that they could easily straddle the strings. Anyway, I think I'll have a go. Thanks for the inspiration.

[@nahguitars4816]

Hello Some good ideas. Having used mine for a while now, a shorter probe and base would be good for stability. I wish I had bought the shorter probe version but find this works pretty well considering.

[@TechnoRiff]

@@nahguitars4816 Hello! Very nice video, and quite generous of you to provide those STL files. I'm thinking that the shorter probe model would also need modified STLs, is that right?

[@monkeyboyna]

@@TechnoRiffit’s been a while since I considered this but quite likely. I have been using my longer one since I released the video and now really like it. Use it several times a day and once you get the hang of it, it is pretty easy. So, not sure the shorter one is necessary.

[@ebswift]

I'm just starting this project, I found a nice used Mitutoyo absolute digital depth indicator that has all the same spring/shaft weight issues as yours and has similar internals. I disconnected the internal spring, and like yours the shaft is too heavy, weighing down the string. I measured the shaft and it's 4.8mm and it so happens you can get carbon fibre tube in that size which would weigh practically nothing and won't flex easily at that length. I'll poke around in the shed tomorrow, I have a few CF lengths in there, one might be in the right size. Then there's the weight of the shaft slider, that's an unknown at this point, if that's an issue I'll need to use a spring like you did. I'll probably 3D print something for the job, the indicator itself is fairly hefty so may have the required weight. All my guitars are 12" radius so I'll just cut that final radius through the design in Inventor. If I need something different in future it'll be a simple matter of changing the cut radius. Anyway, thanks for the ideas, hopefully I can get the Mitutoyo to do the job, it'd be interesting to know how the Stewmac version is rigged up internally.

[@nahguitars4816]

Thanks for sharing these ideas. I think that the Stewmac version must have some spring inside. If you can find the correct one, it balances the slider. I think they sell similar gauges to measure the relief at the 12th fret but I think the spring would have to be different because the resistance of the string at the 7th fret would be lower. I think a 12 inch radius is a good idea. Since bases are easy to print, then it would be quite easy to make a range for other radiused guitars.

[@ebswift]

@@nahguitars4816 Well I got all this done and it worked out. I didn't have CF tube at the right size, but had some rod - it was a tight fit so reduced it using a drill while holding sandpaper around it. Unfortunately a pre-made design I re-made into inventor (for changing hole sizes to what I need) was way out of spec so doesn't sit between the strings, that'll be an easy fix, but not for a few days - I didn't have the guitar near me at the time to check before I drew it. I did find another video where there guitar is held on its side to take the measurement which eliminates any weight-related deflection on the strings, so I think that might be the easy 'fix' - he mentioned that measurements should be taken this way anyway to eliminate neck movement - you're measuring it as you play it. The Mitutoyo has a removable cap at the top, so by removing that, you can press the rod while the guitar is on its side rather than depressing the string.

[@nahguitars4816]

Excellent. Didn’t think to measure on the side. It’s a bit tricky for me as I don’t have a fancy guitar frame. I think if the guitar is held firmly and you have two hands to operate the sensor, all should be good! 😀

[@agentcalm]

Nice vid. Thanks for sharing. Yep i hear ya. For us Europeans ordering from the US is too expensive. I think I'll buy a set of feelers. I wouldn't be able to make the digital gauge you made. Great job the way. Are the feelers measurments metric by the way? i.e 16, 16.5 etc.

[@nahguitars4816]

Feeler gauges are in both metric and imperial. I tend to use imperial because that is used in the US and most guitar specs are in imperial.

[@hellopsp180]

Alright boys we are finally learning how to check out nuts!

[@ricandes]

Well done, I enjoyed this video very much. Lomao, 🤣

[@nahguitars4816]

seems I never grew up! 🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@larryhawes8295]

Just set up a 3D printed version like yours, then found your video and have to say the amount of effort get the rig to work is simply not worth it to me. Back to feeler gauges for me. THANKS for the video either way.

[@nahguitars4816]

It is a bit of work but I wouldn’t be without mine now. I use it on all my setups. Anyway, glad you found the video helpful even if it was to send you back to feeler gauges. Nothing wrong with them.

[@larryhawes8295]

@@nahguitars4816 THANK YOU for the reply. I find it almost impossible to not fiddle with the setup as you have so will probably tackle it again in the future.

[@GemmaNicoleBliss]

Are you in letchworth

[@nahguitars4816]

Yes. Guitar repairs and builds. Nahguitars.com

[@Robert-Smith]

Just remove the spring and measure the string height in the playing position then gravity won't work against you.

[@nahguitars4816]

Yes but not easy to do. I don’t have enough hands for that.