How to choose the RIGHT and best crampons

How to choose the right and best crampons for you for ice climbing, alpine climbing or mountaineering? That is one question that ice climbers, mountaineers and alpine climbers ask themselves. Especially if you are a beginner to ice climbing or alpine climbing and don't know what features to look for. I have answered that question in this climbing vlog episode. I will talk about what I believe make out the best crampons, and help you choose the right crampons for you.
Crampons are often also referred to as steigeisen, but that ist just a matter of semantics and where you are from. Well, anyway this piece of gear is absolutely essential for ice climbing, mountaineering or alpine climbing - but all are not the same! And actually, we could include hiking too - especially if you are considering doing some glacier hiking and glacier travel. Crampons (steigeisen) are needed!
If you are interested in the differences between the ice climbing axe and the general mountaineering ice axe, then consider watching this video.
► Ice climbing axe or mountaineering axe? What is the DIFFERENCE (2020) - • Why are ice climbing a...
So there are many types and nuances to crampons (steigeisen). However you can divide them into two major categories based on their front points. First first being horisontal front points, while the second is vertical front points.
Horisontal front points are broad og are really good for catching snow - so they are excellent for snow ridges, snow gullies and snow slopes. They are also good for general mountaineering and glacier hiking and glacier travel. If you are also considering some alpine climbing routes that does not over steep ice terrain, then I would go with the crampons (steigeisen) with horisontal front points.
The vertical front points are more sharp, aggressive and kinda looks like ice axes! And that is exactly what they are designed to be. Ice axes! They penetrate steep ice very well, and is therefore ideal when ice climbing steep ice. This makes them the best crampons for ice climbing.
Speaking for vertical front points, then you can have them in a mono point (having one front point) configuration or a dual point (having two front points) setup. This is determined based on what you are climbing. If you intent to be climbing mixed ground, then I would recommend mono point as a starting point. This also makes them the best crampons for mixed climbing.
Some of the best crampons (steigeisen) available on the market for ice climbing, mixed climbing and alpine climbing comes from some of the major climbing brands such as Petzl, Black Diamond and Grivel. Here is a list of some of the most popular crampons (steigeisen) on the market:
- Black Diamond Sabretooth
- Black Diamond Cyborg
- Black Diamond Stinger
- Cassin Blade Runner
- Grivel G12
- Petzl Lynx
- Petzl Vasak
However, in this video I will show features of the Black Diamond Sabretooth and the Petzl Lynx. And the boots in the video are the Haglöfs Vertigo II GTX, the La Sportiva Trango Cube and the Scarpa Phantom Guide.
There are also three types of bindings you should be aware of, which are all shown in the video. The major brands have different names of these, so I have created a comparison chart here:
===============================
Black Diamond : Strap / Clip / Pro
Cassin : Universal / Semi-Automatic / Automatic
Climbing Technology: Flex / Semi-Automatic / Automatic
Edelrid: Universal / Semi-Automatic / Automatic
Grivel : Universal / New-Matic / Cramp-o-Matic
Petzl : Flexlock / Leverlock Universal / Leverlock
===============================
So if you are looking for how to choose the right crampons (steigeisen) watch this video.
My favourite crampons (steigeisen) is the Petzl Lynx. It is good for steep ice with sharp vertical front points, but also modular built - a feature people often neglect. You can change the crampons (steigeisen) from mono point to dual point, and you can change the front points, when they are worn out. Something that extends the lifetime of the crampons (steigeisen) significantly!
If you are looking for other gear videos then watch:
► How to choose the RIGHT climbing backpack (2020) - • How to choose the BEST...
or
► How to choose the RIGHT ice climbing axe or ice tool (2020) - • How to choose the RIGH...
I am not affiliated with Black Diamond or Petzl, so this is entirely my own thoughts based on my own experiences, so I can give you advice on how to choose the right crampons for you.
MUSIC:
Wishing Well - Bird Creek • Wishing Well - Bird Cr...
Moon by LEMMiNO / lemmino
Creative Commons - Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported- CC BY-SA 3.0
creativecommons....
Music promoted by Audio Library • Moon - LEMMiNO (No Cop...
SUBSCRIBE:
►► Remember to SUBSCRIBE to our channel to receive more exciting rock climbing videos, and LEAVE A COMMENT below to give us feedback or ask questions regarding the video.
Enjoy!
#alpinism #IceClimbing #crampons

[@antoine1057]

I come from Brazil and just moved to Poland. I love doing hiking and climbing, but you know there is no ice in mountains in Brazil. Your advices have been great! Thank you!!

[@Cragcloud]

I am very happy that my video helps you, Antoine! 😄 And welcome to Europe! There are plenty of areas to go ice climbing around Europe! I have made a few videos about ice climbing in Europe - like Austria and Italy. You could check them out for inspiration 😄

[@fatclimber1]

how about Peru ?seems quite close to brazil?

[@jonmurua]

Another variable to consider: weight! Petz Lynx Vs. Petzl Dart -> lightweight Vs. Modularity I believe the hybrids deserve a mention, like Petzl Sarken or Cassin Blade Runner

[@Cragcloud]

You are absolutely right! Personally, I actually shifted to the Black Diamond Stinger. One of my friends climb with the Cassin Blade Runner and he seems really happy. I haven't tried them myself, though ;)

[@kaungmyatnyinyi2287]

You deserve more subscribers . Keep it up brother. Sending love ❤️

[@Cragcloud]

Thank you so very much 😄

[@Cardsandstoagies]

Pure ice climbing dual points are amazing but mono points work just as well, but may feel less secure, practice makes perfect. For mixed, mono points, you wont twist your foot and have the load transfer from one point to the other.

[@Cragcloud]

I agree. I actually completely switched to mono points. Climb with the Black Diamond Stinger and I absolutely love it! Great precision and I don’t feel any less insecure either 😄

[@jorgezavaleta6457]

The video I've been looking for. Thanks so much.

[@Cragcloud]

I am really happy to hear that 😄 Thanks.

[@samdesmet7637]

Great info man. Agree you deserve a larger audience. cheers.

[@Cragcloud]

Thank you very much, Sam! I really appreciate the support 😄 And the channel is slowly growing 😄

[@AdrianCalgary]

Thanks for sharing, Henrik, will check your other videos, well done.

[@Cragcloud]

Thanks Adrian! :D You are more than welcome checking more videos out :D

[@AdrianCalgary]

For sure, and best of luck on your future projects! Cheers

[@Cragcloud]

Thanks 😄 And you too!

[@seko6056]

very nice and understandable video, many thanks dude

[@Cragcloud]

Glad you liked it! :)

[@luccadizazzo5324]

great video

[@Radioactive_Treehouse]

My favorite youtube channel! ❤❤❤

[@Cragcloud]

Thank you so much!

[@anaparcetic8705]

Great and super useful video. Thanks!

[@Cragcloud]

Thank you very much, Ana! I am really happy you find the video useful 😄

[@oceannash3746]

absolute legend, should deserve a lot more subs

[@Cragcloud]

Thank you so much, ocean nash! Hoping to grow more 😄

[@r.p.6722]

How about few reviews and discussions on climbing boots . Specially for ice climbing . Thanks !

[@Cragcloud]

That is definitely a valid topic! Personally, I climb with the Scarpa Phantom for steep ice and the La Sportiva Trango Cube for alpine climbing. What about you?

[@anthonycoleman1909]

Great video. I am off to buy crampons today. I won't look like I know nothing when I go into the store now.

[@Cragcloud]

Thank you, @Anthony Coleman 😄 I am very happy to hear you got the knowledge you need now 😄 Let me know what you end up buying 😄

[@anthonycoleman1909]

@@Cragcloud I got the GRIVEL G10. It was the one best in store to fit my Asolo 520 boots. Your tips were a great help. Thank you

[@Cragcloud]

Congrats on the crampons! 😁 The Grivel G10 is definitely a good choice. It has received a lot of positive words through the years and it is a really solid design. You will be happy with them 😄

[@v1l1am95]

Only 2K subs? People don't know what's good!

[@Cragcloud]

Thank you so much, The Floor! 😄 The support is definitely appreciated. The channel is slowly growing, but it takes time ☺️

[@Mladenac]

Not many people go to such high altitude mountains

[@nobodyjustme9164]

Great channel. Keep it up, man!

[@Cragcloud]

Thanks :D

[@panchampatel1]

Awesome info. THX

[@Cragcloud]

You are very welcome 😄

[@Shibu11229]

How do you store your crampons? How do you store your ice climbing boots?

[@Cragcloud]

Good question! I keep both my crampons and ice climbing boots dry, out of direct sun light and at a temperature around 20-22 degrees Celsius - which is in the closet in my bedroom 😄

[@24tnoble]

Awesome video as always! Thought I would add another tip as well that applies to Petzl crampons. The Irvis, Dart, Vasak and Sarken all use the same linking bar. So you can get a pair of say Irvis for general mountaineering and Dart front points for vertical ice and swap the fronts out depending on what you're doing. It ends up saving you around $90-$100 from buying the crampons separately. I'm not sure if it is the same case for BD crampons, would be good to know! As a suggestion have you looked into doing a video on different ice climbing grades? There doesn't seem to be any on youtube, and I am sure you would produce a top notch video! Cheers!

[@Cragcloud]

Thank you PatsyTy! That is an excellent tip! Actually, I am considering the Dart as my next crampon for steep ice! :) That is a great suggestion! There is definitely a huge different between the grades - especially when also comparing across disciplines such as steep ice, mixed climbing, alpine climbing and Scottish winter climbing. I am going on several ice climbing trips this winter - I am actually leaving for Aosta Vally in Northern Italy on Wednesday, and then a few trips to Rjukan in Norway. I will keep a grading video in mind - at least there will be new ice climbing videos on routes :)

[@24tnoble]

@@Cragcloud Looking forward to the next set of videos! Keep up the awesome work!

[@Cragcloud]

Thanks! One coming up very soon 😄

[@tanglediver]

Good descriptions!

[@Cragcloud]

Thank you very much 😄

[@TheMikkelovergaard]

Hi Henrik, Snaggletooth from BD is a Horizontal monopoint

[@Cragcloud]

Hi Mikkel. Yes, you are absolutely right. The Black Diamond Snaggletooth is a horisontal "mono-point" - in quotation though as it has a secondary, supporting front point. I read that the Black Diamond Snaggletooth is designed for north faces with steep and icy snow slopes. I am considering getting a pair to try it out on some of the routes in the Alps. Have you any experience with the Black Diamond Snaggletooth you would like to pass on?

[@jasonmckee9262]

This might be a stupid question but at what times do I need crampons for rock climbing

[@dereksantavenere2172]

hey the photo for the video showed the salewa vulture vertical- curious your thoughts on the boot if youve tried them

[@Cragcloud]

I haven't tried them myself, but I have two friends who both use them - and they are both really happy about them.

[@SensatiousHiatus]

Great video...subbed

[@Cragcloud]

Thank you 😄

[@gustavg5584]

Subscribed! Thanks for this video!!. Just a question. Should I replace my strapon crampons with semi-automatics? I have upgraded my boots actually after I moved. Before it was significantly long trekking/walking approaches to the mountains so robust trekking boots where ok although compromising later in more technical terrain/glaciers but the long trekking worth them. But where I live now, semi-rigid boots are the way to go. So the question is if my crampons should be replaced with semiautomatics too. (I have the Black diamond Serac strap-on version which are already 12 points). Thanks in advance!!

[@matteomcmillan2595]

I have a pair of la sportiva gtx tx5 boots and would like to do some light mountaineering do you think that universal crampons are compatible?

[@Cragcloud]

I am not that familiar with the La Sportiva GTX TX5. I would reach out to La Sportiva to get advice from them :)

[@wlcrutch]

Across the brands of Grivel, Black Diamond and Petzl, which models would be recommended for the next ‘step up’ from say, general mountaineering like say the Grivel G12? If one was going to move from basic mountaineering towards slightly more technical, or first beginnings of ice climbing (not so steep yet)?

[@Cragcloud]

For ice climbing you should get something like the Grivel G14, Petzl Lynx or Black Diamond Cyborg - I recently tried the Black Diamond Cyborg for a couple of days and they are good value. Last season I switched to the Black Diamond Stinger, which is a mono-point crampon with vertical front-points.

[@wlcrutch]

Hi, just finished my first ice climbing ever this week. We were near Cogne, with guides from Chamonix. Beginners course. I used the Grivel G12, because I already had it and guides said it would be fine for our level. Some sections were vertical, and due to my poor beginner technique, I found it very difficult to get a good grip. However, people on the internet say that with good technique, man can climb WI4 with this crampon. I will soon be going again-I loved ice climbing! But am considering renting technical crampons...or maybe just try and improve technique with what I have? I already tried many ice tools, and purchased a set that I like, which makes it tough to buy new crampons 😉. However, it is hard to practice mastering good foot technique when you are just trying to not fall off the vertical sections! Thanks for your videos

[@Cragcloud]

Nice! I hope you found steep ice climbing fun anyway 😄 I would definitely recommend vertical front points for steep ice climbing. You will feel a significant difference in getting better grip. Get some with two front points as your first pair. It will get even better grip even though you loose some precision, but as a beginner crampon dual point crampons will make you feel safer 😄

[@ManVsAltitude]

can you please suggest the best crampons for la sportiva olympus mons cube?

[@udmbfckx2916]

Thanks for your video....I hear terms like semi-automatic, step-in/step-thru and so forth....What does this mean and which re the ones? Thanks again!

[@Cragcloud]

Very good question, udmbfck x, and thank you for your feedback 😄 These terms relate to the binding of the crampon - so how you attach them to your mountaineering boots. There are several different types and the major brands like Black Diamond, Petzl and Grivel all have different names. If you look in the video description below, then I have mapped out the different types and their respective names.

[@DrCowinabox]

Does anyone know if mammut Teton GTX boots are able to take crampons? They're the boots I have kicking around and are fairly sturdy, but was wondering if they would be worthy. I've never done much mountaineering

[@Cragcloud]

It doesn't look like it can take semi-automatic or full-automatic crampons as it misses the "edge" at the back for the boot. You can always strap on one of the "strap-on" crampons also shown in the video, but you need to be aware that the boot sole is not too soft since the crampon would then easily pop off. Strap-on crampons are fine for glacier hiking or very light mountaineering, but if you want to do more technical climbing, then I would suggest getting a stiffer mountaineering boot that is crampon compatible like the La Sportiva Trango Cube or maybe the Mammut Kento.

[@jamessharr7762]

Legit. Thanks for all the indepth...ness

[@Cragcloud]

You are very welcome 😄 Looking for your first set of crampons?

[@jamessharr7762]

@@Cragcloud I'm trying to work up to summiting mount Olympus here in Washington next summer. What would you suggest for use on a couple miles of glacier?

[@Cragcloud]

Then I would recommend the Black Diamond Sabretooth or the cheaper Black Diamond Contact with broad horizontal front points

[@iaindredge1768]

C1, C2 or C3 rated would be easier

[@Cragcloud]

Indeed! If all the companies would just name their crampons according to that standard - then life would be easier. Thank you for the tip, Iain :)

[@r.p.6722]

TruE that

[@wlcrutch]

Only for uk climbers. No one else uses that scheme

[@chusoskever2649]

2020? and the video was uploaded on November 2018, LOL, editing the title trying to get more views is not the way to go, putting that aside, great video

[@Cragcloud]

Hi Skever Beats. Thank you for your feedback. The tips on how to choose the right crampons mentioned in the video still applies in 2020 😉

[@chusoskever2649]

@@Cragcloud I agree, but I think that it could be misleading people, expecting a "brand new video" from this year when it's not even though the information mentioned in this video is timeless and very well explained, as I said, great video, also thanks for taking your time to respond, I appreciate it :)

[@Cragcloud]

@@chusoskever2649 I think you are absolutely right - I will change it :)

[@tanshersingh7372]

subbed

[@Cragcloud]

Thank you very much 😄

[@tanshersingh7372]

@@CragcloudMessage me if you're ever in Milan or in the Italian alps! We have some great, under rated, easily accessible winter mountaineering here!

[@Cragcloud]

Thanks! Sure, I will message you 😄

[@braxlynn]

are you german?

[@Cragcloud]

Nope, I am from Denmark 😄