How To Control Electric Element Stills? SCR!

How do you control an electric still? What controller should you use on an electric element?
You could of course use a PID (very specific ones) . . . .
Or you could use a cheap and simple SCR.
SCRs make it easy and cheap to control an electric still!
SCR 10000W
amzn.to/2npDzJM
RCD
amzn.to/2GTicd4
Subscribe Here:
www.youtube.com...
Still Its Patreon Page:
/ stillit
Still It Merch
stillit.thread...
Sign Up To The Still It Mailing List Here:
stillitmaillist...

[@jp040759]

Good video for a novice electrician. One huge suggestion. Tie your green ground wire to the wall outlet ground for sure. On the SCR controller side I would ground the green wire to the plate you are mounting the controller to. Just make sure the body of the potentiometer is not electrically connected to the rest of the control circuit. Thirdly you should ground your still to the green wire. Maybe even put a few ground wires to various parts of your still where there may be bad electrical connection between sections of pipe due to the various unions or couplers. Run a separate wire from various points on your still to the green wire next to your controller. This will be a safety ground for you and your controller. If anything in your setup shorts to the still or to the plate it will blow a fuse (trip a breaker) and save your from getting shocked. Plus grounding everything should eliminate static electricity built up and sprarks igniting the alcohol.

[@smartypants5036]

I did my first pot still run on a Turbo 500 Boiler last weekend. It has a 2000 Watt element and that is it. The comparable Copper Head Boiler has two elements and one can be switched out once the wash has reached the desired temperature. I have a 4000 Watt SCR. For me I run full throttle until I am just at the point of collecting then I drop the power back to 55%. It is as easy as that. Temperature changes as the percentage of alcohol in the pot decreases, that would cause a PID Controller to make adjustments, but I just left it and only adjusted when I wanted to. That puts me in the drivers seat. $27.00 on Trade Me. What a deal. !!!!!! Thanks Jessie, Newbie very happy with the first POT Still run.

[@HakimsHoney]

Great video as always! One small suggestion. When the wall switch element is on and the SCR is at 25% I believe you will be at 62.5% total power. So to be at 75% you would need the wall switch on (100%) and the SCR set to 50%. Cheers!

[@classicbikerx3588]

Fun video as usual. I started with a SSR controlled by a 500Kohm potentiometer. I recently stepped up my game with a Raspberry Pi controlled setup using a version of Craftbeerpi that I edited the steps on to suit distillation. The PWM is amazing on my 5.5Kw setup and I can jump to temp and dial in with no hassle! Come to the dark side!!!

[@williamarmstrong7199]

Confused about these controllers. Do they operate by turning on and off completely or by reducing the power and also increasing it to maintain the required temp at the top of the still? I have some PiD controllers but they turn off and on relays! Which is not good.

[@classicbikerx3588]

@@williamarmstrong7199Both. They switch quickly to lower the voltage out of the SSR. I use a PI which is using PWM to control a 5VDC pin to a SSR. The longer each pulse is, the higher the voltage. The faster the cycle, the lower the voltage. Clear it up at all?

[@BeerByTheNumbers]

I am always fascinated by electric controlled systems. They are so cool and I hope to have one some day. Cheers!

[@coalhearted1105]

Really enjoy your videos. You're straight up entertaining while being very informative. Keep up the good work, and best regards to you and your family!

[@pounsfos]

I built my SCR about 7 years ago, paid $25 for it at the local electrical store, has been going strong ever since, make sure you put a big heatsink on them, they do get hot.

[@smartbusinesswebsites231]

Got my SCR and on/off switch 4000W for a total $20 incl. delivery. Will be her in by Thursday.

[@thomasa5619]

Hey bud, Aussie sparky here, we wire to the same standards, if your house was wired right, you *can* pull like 5kw out of a standard power point for short periods of time though it’s not great would recommend use two plugs in a double outlet. If you draw too much current you’ll just a trip the circuit breaker and get the cables warm. It’s rough but it works

[@sonnyjim7579]

Theoretically...asking for a friend... say I have a still with one 3500kw element. This person doesnt have any 15A outlets and was thinking of creating a lead with 2 male plug ends that would be each plugged into separate circuits, with 1 socket that the element would plug into. Sounds dodgy AF I know... but would it solve the issue tripping the 10 amp breaker when running at full power?

[@thomasa5619]

@@sonnyjim7579 make sure they are the same phase or the element is wired for, and can handle 2 phase The danger is while one plug is plugged in, the other has 110 or 240 exposed. Tbh I should’ve mentioned that in the first comment, that’s kinda embarrassing. Are you sure you’re on 10A breakers? In Australia/NZ they’re “10A” plugs but usually a 16A breaker which won’t trip on overload till 1.45*16A and won’t trip on short circuit till like 7.5*16A Even a 10A breaker still takes like 5 minutes to trip at 14 amps. Channel called “electroboom” covered the topic about a month ago, he’s an electrical engineer in Canada.

[@mrtechie6810]

Could you do a video on controlling a heating element in water using a PID -- and efficiency of SSR vs SCR? I have an 8KW Atmor tankless water heater that has two switched heating elements. I want to add stable electronic temperature control. But I can't find good information about the different options! Seems the PID + SSR MAY have longer switching time, and that MAY reduce heating element life from thermal cycling vs a higher speed SCR. But I am having trouble finding the real answer.

[@Talon828]

Hey Mate, that was a great explanation of how to proportionally control the still with multiple elements. That will work in all circumstances and with any number of elements. You only need 1 SCR controller. Your el-cheapo is just that and dangerous. I'm stil running my controller that I built in 2010 without fault. Mind you there are some considerations that must be adheared to always, the SCR must be at least 100% of greater capacity than the load it controls. That is the accomodate the "Duty Cycle" Just like a welder or any other device. NOte the more you blead the power off the more load its under. An SCR or Silicon Controlled Rectifyer (Google it) if the most efficient and cost effective means of controlling a load particulalry a heatign load or as a motor speed controller. Its best to stay away form a PID or SSR as the biggest disadvantage if the high heat they put out. THey are also not designed for stills but more appropriate for a mash kettle where you will set the heat to attain and hold it there for a period of time then step the heat up for anothe rperiod to mash out. Also be very aware that the electrical systems between the Americas and the rest of the world are very different. in gthe US 110 Volt can not supply the amount of power required, so they use 220 Volts. this is the equivelent of our 2 or 3 phase 415volt systems, a US 220 volt device is very different to our 240 volt controllers. the circuits are also very different. The SCR link below to Amazon should not be used in OZ or Kiwi, use this one instead. Beside its only $17 AUD delivered free for a 3 wire 10KW unit that should last for years. Good for any single phase 240 volt element up to 6KW (remember duty cycle). www.ebay.com.au/itm/10000W-High-Power-SCR-BTA10-Electronic-Voltage-Regulator-Speed-Controller-NEW/292088869279?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 ALso please the Brown wire is the "Active" the Blue is "Neutral: (not the green - thats earth thats the keep you alive wire that make the RCD work). Oh and I am a Sparky. Great vieo, keep it up. I hope my long winded explanation helps.

[@StillIt]

Appreciate it mate! And apologies for the slip on naming wires! Will pin this comment to the top when I get back to a computer!

[@FlickinTheBudgie]

Lloyd Davis so the link you have for the EBay one is good for Australia? I want to order one

[@Talon828]

Cheers Mate, yes it is, I bought one myself for 3 Phase 6 element controller I am making right now for a 500 litre pot still. Works fine but I am only driving 1 6KW element but it will work for any element up to 6KW (25 Amps) its neet and runs pretty cool. but keep it vented.

[@FlickinTheBudgie]

Lloyd Davis thank mate

[@prometheus4916]

Lloyd Davis i would love to talk whit for some info

[@bernarddeham4787]

What I can see is similar to a very basic diac triac circuit I made when I was 20, so not really yesterday. Nowadays you can get them very cheap on aliexpress but you have to make sure the triac is strong enough like a BTA40 600 for instance.

[@ericschwab409]

Rumor has it you are a proud double dad now (TWINS!!!). Congratulations to you and your wife! Cheers!

[@ericschwab409]

PS. Life as you knew it is over! Lol! But you already know that! Be brave, patient, and a really great Dad! 🥃👍🏻🥃

[@StillIt]

Thanks a bunch man :) hahaha yup!!!?

[@CameronCarter1]

That's exactly what happened to mine. luckily I have a box full of those light dimmers. I put a tiny fan on the heatsink and it's been fine ever since. (BTW, the SCR (Silicon Controlled Rectifier) is the black three pin device mounted to the heatsink. )

[@adammitchell3462]

I got a clawhammer supply self build copper still kit (10 gal), I have a 1650 watt internal element for it,with an adapter. I'm just useing it for stripping runs, do I necessarily need to control power output? I'd rather just plug it up and let it go wide open,I strain my was very thoroughly too.

[@BigEdsGuns]

Good video Jessie. Best wishes for Mom and the twins! Family first! Cheers!

[@StillIt]

Cheers mate :)

[@nunyerbeeznaz2906]

I like my PID controller with both hotplate and internal heat. $35 with 40 amp SS switching relays. George at barley&hops has good setup vids on PIDs.

[@Visionery1]

Great video! I'm assuming an SCR could be used to reduce the power consumption of a 2,400W kettle by dialing it down to 600W? We live in a country where power cuts are becoming the norm, with people installing inverters and batteries to retain in some sort of normality. Many of these inverters are

[@charleswyatt180]

Can an SCR be mounted in a J box that would accommodate both the SCR and the receptacle or is that not good thinking?

[@ayseedthebuilder2135]

I have a 13 gal. Vevor electric pot still. 220v I refit the cover with a column. My problem is keeping consistent heat. It heats way way up. Then shuts off for 5-10 minutes. How do I keep a simmer to keep the column working?

[@drdzdd]

12:32 : no, set to 60%,not 30%. but everyone got the point so :-D. Thanks for the great channel. (60% of its power range, 30% of total power range yes but you probably didn't mean that... Details but i dont have anything else to do :-D)

[@BeardedBored]

I completely forgot about this video! This is really helpful, dude:-)

[@TheVeiledsarami]

Thanks Jessie, your video came just as I was researching this very thing! Appreciate all your work :)

[@StillIt]

Haha lucky timing!

[@WRDO]

Hello , "If the input is 240v-20amp and set the out put to 50% is the output will be 120v-40a or 120v-20a ?"

[@russellmcgahee942]

Listen up If you go electric go 220 Volts AC because you will not have the wire heating problem as you do with 120 AC. Also use ten Gauge wire for power circuits. Never skimp on this ; TAKE it form an Engineer that knows electricity. 220 is the only way to do this. Any one that has done 120 just touch the wire and see how hot it get's. By the way your SSR is rated at 300 Vac. lots of room there. Love out Loud or not at all.

[@wildbill7695]

I have a 220 system setup with a 4500 watt element on a PID controller but I like the idea of your scr can I incorporate that into my PID control box and do away with the PID that way I can keep everything 220 volt

[@glenna3434]

SO MUCH easier to control using an SCR instead of a PID. I started with the PID control box and hated it. After a few tries, I ordered an SCR from Amazon and wired it into my control box. I left the PID installed, but disconnected everything but the temperature probe, so the PID still works as a digital temp gauge. I run a 240v 4500w element and bought the "10000W High Power SCR Electronic Voltage Regulator AC 110V-220V Motor Speed Controller Dimming Thermoregulation Module with Fan" from amazon.

[@davidwalters9779]

How did you wire it for 240? Just run red straight to plug and black through the scr?

[@fanazza1]

🤣🤣loved the slow motion Jesse

[@StillIt]

Glad you liked it ;)

[@richardwhitebrook5695]

Love the enthusiasm, but maybe a couple of useful additions: 1) Agree with jp below - I'd have bolted those earth wires to your metal plate for better safety at no cost 2) PID and SCR - literally apples and oranges. PID is controlling temperature (usually by bang-bang - on/off - firing the element), SCR has nothing to do with temperature control, it's just controlling how much of the power waveform goes to the element. SCR is probably far more useful here when you're really talking about manual control of heat. 3) DONT buy massively overrated SCRs for your application; an SCR rated at 10X the current you are using will not perform as well. So for a 2K element an SCR rated at 2.4K should be fine. 4) Thanks to Chinese manufacturing quality being inconsistent (sorry - if the sh## fits..) its nearly impossible to tell if any random item you buy is going to work well/for long - regardless of price. When you're talking items that require good thermal connection to heatsinks; all bets are off. So its a roll of the dice and the "buy two" idea; deffo valid. In your case one of the filter caps blew, not the SCR by the look of it - pretty common for the Chinese to use low grade or underrated caps, which is sad because they cost about 3c.

[@MinSziHo]

Really funny and friendly guy. I like him :-)

[@southcack8245]

I built my controller with separate components - 40A 240V SSR, 240V fan, dual pole on/off switch, and a 500K Ohm potentiometer. I'm using my 240V 30A clothes dryer outlet for power. My heating element is 55K watts. Takes about 30 minutes to heat up a 10 gallon charge in a 13.2 gallon keg.

[@stevep4832]

55k watts? That sounds a bit overkill! I'm sure you just forgot the decimal point. ;)

[@southcack8245]

@@stevep4832 yes sorry, that should be 5.5KW

[@STILLinCANADA]

I humbly disagree on some of the points you provided, though I am a fan of manual power control over digital to the elements, I prefer a pid running both systems with power regulators treating both elements separately. I FULLY agree that at some time one system will fail, by having both elements hooked up to different SCR systems than you should never be stuck in a non operational status. one element can run your whole system albeit slower but it would not shut you down as this failure would have if you were doing a spirit run over a stripping run. Now in saying that, your costs are almost doubled in the manufacture of your control system but we are talking about relatively cheap parts and as pointed out in the video you should always have a spare, so why not just put the spare to use, instead of sitting in a drawer? typically if both fail at the same time you have other issues and should shut down, but if only one fails then your other side will continue, Jessie don't leave your spare in a drawer, install it , I honestly cant see a reasonable argument against running your particular system on one SCR when you have another one sitting in a drawer. You can still run the second element at 100% with an on / off switch controlling the SCR if you so desire, but having the ability to run both elements at 30% will reduce the scorching effect to your mash. Thus producing a better quality spirit, in the end is that not the second most important issue behind safety?

[@StillIt]

Dang good point mate. I hear what you are saying! Especially if you set it up so it is not hard attached anyway.

[@borichards978]

To go with the elements I'm not sure what size I would need to run for mine I have been using lpg burners but they aren't that safe So I'm using a 50l keg with a 1.3m high stainless reflux collum I'm looking at getting a 10000w scr to power it so I'm after your thoughts PS love your videos and your enthusiasm about your hobby

[@stevehubb]

Awesome vid dude, as a sparky few cringe moments but still good. ALWAYS solder or terminate your earth (you said neutral on the vid) if there is a fault to earth the fault current rungs through this and so should be sound, although the RCD will help. Also if you front plate is metal make sure that you link an earth to that too. 🤗

[@StillIt]

Cheers mate appreciate it!!

[@colinellis9063]

Congrats on your twins. Another brilliant vid. The wires you're calling positive and negative are live and neutral. Details matter in electronics like in brewing. The ones you are calling neutral are earth. I can see you know what you're doing but please correct these terms for any kids following in our footsteps. Cheers. Keep making the vids very helpful.

[@jackpeated8297]

I have a question, if the liquid in your still gets below your heating element could your dry element ignite the fumes inside your still??? Sorry if question is dumb

[@StillIt]

Nah that's a smart question. I'm not sure about ignite, but you can definitely burn out the elements. Not something you want to be doing! So yeah, make sure you know the volume that covers you elements.

[@jackpeated8297]

@@StillIt got it. Thanks much man. I appreciate it

[@jackpeated8297]

@@StillIt so you want to keep your distillate above the coils throughout the whole run?

[@StillIt]

Yeah exactly. Don't want to run them dry ever. So ideally you want the elements down low in your boiler.

[@jackpeated8297]

@@StillIt awesome. Thank you for your input Mate, I appreciate your time

[@stevenlegg9156]

Is there any real differences between the pwm and the scr controllers?

[@17hmr243]

i know this is old video but can u talk more about the blue barrels. pro cons where to get types cleaning thank you from oz

[@PaulSmith-jr1qe]

Hi Jesse, I'm a little confused You use an SCR some people use PWM do they do the same thing?.

[@tonyrebeiro]

For AC power, there is no POSITIVE or NEGATIVE. It's referred to as PHASE and NEUTRAL and the Green wire is the GROUND.

[@jcmining9450]

Awesome I’m gonna pop into Jaycar an my local homebrew store to check out what they have in the way of controllers and elements this week end , keen to see your upcoming Gin video too

[@DanielHill01]

Thanks for the update

[@StillIt]

Any time ;)

[@thomasedwin1]

I don't know aboult the voltage in New Zealand But in the US 240 volts will turn your finger nails black. I'm exsperimenting with a silicone controled rectifier in conjunction with a rex PID controler so I can control the power to the heating element and have thermostatic control at the same time.

[@PexiTheBuilder]

US have mostly 110v because dangerous sockets, there would be so many electrocution deaths with those sockets and 240v..

[@thomasedwin1]

I have an digital push boton SCR hooked up to a 240 volt power sorce then I have the output From the SCR hooked up to a solid state relay that is controled by a rex c 100 PID temp controler, the purpose of this is so that not only can I control the over all power to the heating element with the SCR but I can also control the temp with the PID controler. My question is when I have the whole animal up and running will the SCR reset itself every time the PID turns off or on when controling the temp? What I mean to say Is the SCR has a simple up and down buton and a digital display that goes from 0 to 100% power output instead of a ajustable knob, will this digital power stay at one setting or will it reset back to 0 every time the PID turns off or on to be more precise?

[@StillIt]

First up, I am NOT a expert on this. So take this for what its worth aha The SCR's I have used in the past are a simple switch. If the low current (from PID / whatever) is on then turn the mains current on. Its never at 50% its just on for 50% and off for 50%. If you ccycle that quickly enough its roughly the same thing. So if the PID is off, there is no signal/low current going into the SCR so the SCR is off also.

[@thomasedwin1]

First, the SCR has a constant power supply so there is no turning it off and on then the output from the SCR connects to a solid state relay instead of directly to the heating element then he SSR is controlled by a PID so the power to the heating element is first controlled by the SCR then thermostatically by the PID, Oh this is useless to try to explain. Never mind ill just have to post a video when I get it all together.

[@inglishill4028]

You refered to your 'neutrals' as being twisted together, the green and yellow ones, you may find they are your earths :) The 'positive' and 'negative' are actually your Phase (Hot) and Neutral. Just thought you may like to know :)

[@StillIt]

Cheers mate. Indeed, few if the others Called me on that ;)

[@inglishill4028]

Yeah, sorry, I saw that after commenting, delete it, it is not needed again :)

[@StillIt]

Nah didn't mean it like that. And better to have multiple people hat know their shit enfocing the same facts.

[@tonyluke4666]

Hey bro mean video. Just wondering how many amps to run your 2 elements and did u have to upgraded any breaker switches or home wiring? Cheer bro love the channel. Tumeke!

[@StillIt]

I have 2x 2kw elements. I run them on 2 seperate lines. So I did not need to for my specific wiring. But no idea what you have sorry :)

[@PexiTheBuilder]

2kw / 240v = 8.33A

[@dirtyblond2332]

"Twins are born"... Knew it ! Any guy with a cute laugh, that can make his own booze, and has a beard of a God, must be already taken. Gonna have to see if I can get my money back for that ticket to New Zealand now.... ;)

[@StillIt]

There is "taken" and then there is we have twins together "taken" hahaha

[@dirtyblond2332]

@@StillIt - Yeah, thats TAKEN ! ;)

[@tobeyplaunty1321]

Thanks for the video. I have been looking like mad for info like this. Is there anyway you can show your entire electric set up from cords to the elements? Do the 2 elements just branch off the power cord before one goes into the scr?

[@tobeyplaunty1321]

After further reading I think i found my own anser. Do you use them on 2 seperate circuits?

[@StillIt]

Yep exactly. Sorry for slow reply. These are literally two separate circuts all the way back to the breaker board. That way I didn't need to install higher amp circuts.

[@xflyyer61]

I currently use a 5 gallon gas heated still but I'm thinking of switching to electric and a 11 gallon still. How many watts would you recommend. Google says 11 gallons Is 50 liters if that helps

[@StillIt]

Thats the same size as mine. I use 2x 2kw. I only need about 2kw when actually running. but the extra makes heat up faster.

[@DJMajickMan]

Have you seen the catch can addition during distillation? Check Survival Russia for making Moonshine. Seems like an interesting way to filter and add possible flavor second go round.

[@StillIt]

Huh nope have not heard of that one. Or the video/channel.

[@StillIt]

Will have to look it up. Thanks man :)

[@flintcoat2596]

Information on SCRs You have mentioned in the past that you thought your liquidis heating slower than you thought it should. IF your controller is TRULY using a SCR, that 3 KW heating element can onlyproduce 1.5KW ! A SCR ONLY ALLOWS CURRENT TO FLOW IN ONE DIRECTION! Think of it as a diode. A DIODE only allows the alternating current from your electric outlet to flow in ONE DIRECTION, turning the current into bumpy DC. The scr allows you to clip off a portion of the dc current thus allowing control of current flow. In fact the schematic symbol for a SCR IS THE SAME AS A DIODE, with a gate wire added at the cathode. I would suggest that you look for a controller that has a TRIAC IN PLACE OF THE SCR. I am sure this is as clear as mud for a tinkerer as yourself, but look up the symbols for a diode, a scr, and a triac and you will see in the first 2 a very definite arrow in the symbolic representation, while the triac has 2 pointers side by each pointing in opposite directions! I LOVE YOUR CHANNEL, and just might have to set up a still here in Kansas! Law or no! I am at your service with any of your electrical challenges Feel free to mention. I am FLINTCOAT

[@StillIt]

Sorry for the slow reply mate. Twins situation taking up time hahaha. That's really interesting! I understand what you mean (with my very limited understanding haha). Will have to look into it some more.

[@flintcoat2596]

Still It. MY HEART GOES OUT TO THE 4 OF YOU! Get some sleep NOW! YOU WILL NEED IT! AND a bit o advice, DON'T GET OLD, IT IS A TRAP

[@StillIt]

Thanks mate :) funny how you can pick a good bloke from a comment haha

[@bashcoder]

These kinds of SCRs produce very nearly full waveforms at 100% output - at least as far as a heating element would be concerned. They use two-way thyristors for either zero-voltage switching or phase angle firing, so as you turn them down they either skip more cycles or delay the waveforms proportionately. Note that most are intended only for pure resistive loads, such as these heating elements, and not inductive loads. So in other words, NO WORRIES!! You won’t lose half of your power at full output like you would with a simple half-wave rectifier.

[@2000spcfarr]

I have been waiting for this video since you have been on lol thanks brother!!

[@bizdad]

Love the slomo’s !!

[@muttstarkey5920]

do you haft to use oak wood s for aging ? JESS

[@jamesh1984]

Does this mean we get a 'setting up an electric still' video? Because I need that in my life. Also, is there a reason for having two weaker elements as opposed to a single powerful one?

[@StillIt]

Yeah I'm thinking we need to do that some time. For me it was mostly that I can run these two on two separate circuts. One big element would require a sparky to put a new high amp circuit it.

[@TheJMemonic]

First off, fun channel cheers. Now the serious stuff, leave it alone, your two elements give you much better control as you have noted, changing the SCR controller to a TRIAC based one will give you even better control. Should one fail and you are left woith just one operating them 2.Kw is far better than 0Kw heating, you will still be able to complete your run. If you were to step up to 3Kw elements that would require two circuits installed not one, and unless you have a sparky who will do the job cheap, well it's going to cost.

[@paulmccrumlish4230]

Hi Jesse, still waiting on you running your still ,controlling it by the SCR

[@johanoberholzer2992]

What you need is an SSR ( solid state relay) with PID controller with manual %age control

[@StillIt]

I have all the parts for a Arduino based ssr set up sitting there......the I got lazy! Haha

[@SyBernot]

I highly recommend using a PID, they are certainly cheap enough and a lot of times you can get them with the SCR for just a few dollars more. George over on Barley and Hops Brewing has many videos on wiring and using them even which parts to get. One thing to note with any SCR, make sure your heat sync is not enclosed, heat as you now know kills them dead. I originally built a 3 channel system with a timer and plugins so that it's flexible enough it can be used for brewing, sous vide cooking, keeping a keezer at the right temp, pretty much anything that needs temperature control. The learning curve is minimal and if I ever lose a channel I have 2 more to fall back on. photos.app.goo.gl/Lzyfd1SVKSYk9HZ03

[@BigEdsGuns]

No need for PID in a pot or reflux still. Think of a SCR or SSVR is basically a industrial dimmer switch. After boiler comes up to temp and you get spirits flowing. The more power you dial up, the lower the ABV. (You are boiling more water with alcohol) The lower the power the higher the ABV. (You are boiling just at 172F) You can get a drip, drip, drip out of a pot still which can reach 170+ proof or higher, but will take hours to complete a run. There are PID's which "self adjust" the heat. But it acts like electric stove, power on, power off, then power on again. The alcohol on the still will flow the same way. Fast slow down, fast, slow down, and may adjust but it will always be adjusting, even though the amount of power goes up or down. I like George's videos but he uses silicone tubing he calls "food grade" to collect High ABV spirits for consumption which is a safety no-no. Glass, stainless, copper and PTFE are the safe for High ABV spirits. It's not how high ABV affects the material, it's what it takes with it. If you are making high ABV fuel, use whatever you want.

[@markbader4942]

I've never been to NZ, are you running 110v? Do you have a recommend on something in the neighborhood of 220v 5000-10000w?

[@StillIt]

Its 240v here. For my 50L boiler I am running 2x 2kw elements.

[@markbader4942]

Still It so your link is what I’m looking for. Thank you

[@pieter-janswanepoel4987]

Can you please show your placement of the element

[@wait4dl]

jessie were do you buy your water connect and dis connect, i can not find them in az usa.

[@williamelliott]

I purchased my variable controller from mile high along with 2 2000 watt heaters. One heater controlled the other on or off

[@StillIt]

Nice!

[@MrCrazyChemist]

Great video Jesse, but I think your math's on the percentages are off.The percentage of the scr is that of half the total power usage by 2 heating elements, 50% set on the src is only 25% of the total wattage for example. For example when your switch is on and the scr is on 25% you have 62,5% total power on two heating elements not 75%.

[@StillIt]

I hear you mate. I was talking % of totall power the whole tome. So when I said 50% for the SCR I mean that that scr is running on full.

[@rldays9179]

could you use a light dimmer? You could use a light dimmer with an app on your phone that will dim when you set it to dim or do it manually. Also with 2 2kw elements you would need more than a 10amp wall socket? Because with both elements on at full blast you could easily melt a normal wall plug.

[@inglishill4028]

Another handy tip, when you turn your wall switch that is powering the scr make sure the scr is turned down to '0%' this will help with longevity.

[@StillIt]

Now this I did not know!! Cheers mate.

[@inglishill4028]

I should have said when both turning it on and off at the wall :)

[@stephengarwell8386]

great vid, I have a small pc cooling fan mounted over my heatsink sucking the hot air out to keep it cooler

[@davidlarsen2184]

You should have it mounted in a metal electrical box. If that thing failed because of heat be safe and don't burn down the house putting it a wood or plastic box.

[@StillIt]

Yup I should

[@PexiTheBuilder]

But also, you shouldn't leave your still running alone..

[@Richdudevids]

darn good info thanks for sharing

[@mrleechapman7615]

it seems all over the net , guys making Moonshine etc have beards, if I start distilling is beard growing mandatory or optional?

[@fredluden2298]

I’ve been brewing beer for a while now and I am interested in distilling, does anyone know what kind of licensing I would need to distill in the US or if it would even be with doing due to the registration fees?

[@StillIt]

Yeah that one's a bit much for me to answer my man. I don't know your laws well enough.

[@fredluden2298]

Still It thanks for the response, I’ve been reading about it for a few days now and it looks pretty difficult

[@StillIt]

Yeah, it's not a easy thing to do I don't think.

[@duderelduderino8370]

i think it's legal if you apply for a fuel alcohol license in most states

[@danssv8]

Should I use a pid(pain in da ass controller) or a scr(super crapp controller) witch one bro??

[@soupflood]

PID is the controller that can command a transistor (like the SCR) or an electromechanical relay. The SCR is an electronic switch, it can switch current at maximum frequencies of hundreds of Hz. Once latched, it stays on until the next polarity change or until the power goes out. The SCR only switches DC (it can switch maximum 50% of a sinusoidal AC).

[@danssv8]

@@soupflood Cheers mate

[@tygonmaster]

I always kind of hate it when people say 5V is "safer." It can still cause serious damage depending on the path it takes. It only takes 500mA to stop the heart and 5V on a low resistance connection can get you to the danger zone. "Safer" in the sense that it has a larger gradient of resistance that will render it less deadly, but always take proper caution, people. Use grounded connections, check all connections before turning on, and never mess with live wires unless you really know what you are doing. This is coming from a guy that spent 6 years in uni with capacitors blowing up, people grabbing live components, and one very....special...guy that liked to chew solder. Don't think low voltages are safe. "Safer" maybe. Safe, no.

[@dickuranus6376]

The Auber DSPR1 is fine choice. Gives the operator an incredible amount of control. 👍👍

[@peterscandlyn]

I think SCR such as you used should have some cooling. A computer cooling fan would do - if it's mounted in a box as yours was, temps could get a bit warmish..

[@StillIt]

Yep I had a cooling fan on the side of the box (exhaust holes on the other side). I shoulda pointed that out. Think I need to do a better job with 2.0 though :)

[@bashcoder]

Agreed - also the provided heat sinks on these things are always insufficient.

[@jacksonstombaugh8553]

Could build a liquid cooling system like you would for a PC

[@mediaaccount6218]

Would this work on a T500 ?

[@troyfortsch4440]

Congratulations to the wifey and you on the birth of your twins!!

[@StillIt]

Thanks mate :) :)

[@josephkordinak1591]

Hello Jessie, Knowing you are an SCR fan have you ever seen these www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079BB7VK5/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_5?smid=A1LH3TFU4S09BS&psc=1 its like an SSR with a resistive input to control the output. The can handle a good amount of amps and would make a nice compact controller.

[@jasondelfosse7813]

Ahhh I found it again. Hey can you send me a schematic of how your wired your elements and scr?

[@StillIt]

Im no electrician mate.

[@StillIt]

And all of these things are different. Also, this specific one, as people pointed out, is underpowered. (not true to label). It burnt out I got antother one later on.

[@jasondelfosse7813]

Lol I know. Neither am im.

[@jasondelfosse7813]

I took your word for it and bought a higher end one. You said you are running them at half power. That's what threw me off. But hey thank you for all your information and your videos. Love them!!

[@melsilva9158]

Jesse, thanks for doing this. I just watched the PID discussion with George and I was wondering how you did the "analog" version of controlling a heating element. This just showed up, like the Google is reading my mind or something. Where's my tinfoil hat?

[@thomasedwin1]

It must be nice to have a small building to set up a still in NZ , here in the states we are forced to hide in a basement or garage.

[@StillIt]

We are very lucky here in NZ! I hope a few more places take the same path as NZ.

[@mustavertwang]

You`re lucky in the U.K.we have to use a cardboard box!

[@MRPricks]

Variac is good to more expensive but worth it.

[@thomasedwin1]

What do you know about using an SCR in conjunction with a PID?

[@mubeenamjad3619]

I really laughed loud when ur SCR fired and u didnt act upon ur own advise. Well for a moonshiner its great to sit back with set temperature 77.8...and let the crystal dripp. Since u said 110 or 220 volts..(current) 😂..hehe check out this page of barley and hopps brewing he gives u very good advise

[@williamarmstrong7199]

My only 2p worth is to agree and recomemd always buying an SCR that is at least 5 or 10x the max power you are going to put through it. Particularly if you are buying Chinese.. they are usually at least 2 to 3x over optimistic and having sparks and flames near a working still is never a good idea. :) If using more than 1 heating element then one SCR each will avoid those difficult moments when one fries itself, element or SCR. At least you can run, maybe a lot slower but run all the same.

[@jimdawn6]

I have a Rum question,,, 10 gallons water +3 gallons molasses. +turbo yeast and it wont ferment ,,,WHY

[@StillIt]

What temp was it when you pitched? What temp now? What is the pH? How long has it been sitting? That should help us trouble shoot a bit more!

[@jimdawn6]

I checked the ph is was like 12,,, added some gypsum and it kicked off,,,,thanks for the idea...jim

[@danssv8]

He he nice mate

[@PexiTheBuilder]

9:29 blown capacitor, how many electric devices have thrown away because of those cheap AF components, that are probably easiest ever to replace..

[@PexiTheBuilder]

And same capacitor blow in my SCR :D Soldered new one on back side of pcb to avoid thyristor to heat it up, they were originally almost touching.

[@PaulSmith-jr1qe]

Just forgot to add it's for use with a T500

[@troywest9751]

Congratulations on the birth of your baby's

[@StillIt]

Thanks Troy :)

[@jabird212]

Not dying is a great thing

[@earthpalladin]

blown cap. try your hand at soldering. replace the cap from another broke scr

[@johnblack9582]

you don't know it all, you admit that you don't know it all... mate, i never ever thought i would hear those words from a south pacific pom (kiwi) thank you for your humbleness :)

[@johnblack9582]

but then again, i'm just takin' the piss, love your videos :)

[@TeeTeeNet]

Always define an abbreviation before using it. Please.

[@BobWalker]

You didn't take your own advice on current rating either. That SCR is clearly a 2Kw one.

[@StillIt]

Yeah Im thinking I got sucked into a crapy listing that did not really sell what they said it was

[@dannyk2595]

pause @ 10 Min ... what's wrong with the Board or the Wiring? Looking at it vertical position from the top been Pin 1 should be from the wall neutral IN, Pin 2 should be from the wall Active IN, Pin 3 Active OUT, CORRECT Pin 4 neutral OUT, CORRECT. Pardon for my bad inglish. Hope NO ONE Makes The same mistake as this one culd have been loss of life and maybe home too.

[@jayleach7762]

6 minutes in And FUCKING RAMBLING!!!!!

[@canadianpatriot5577]

I bought 3 of these and all 3 burnt out within less than 1 minute. Wtf? Help?

[@soupflood]

Mount the scr on properly sized heatsink, choose one at least twice the max amperage used by the load.

[@canadianpatriot5577]

@@soupflood I went back to gas burner. faster, and makes way more sense to me.

[@michaelnorwood5888]

Babies yet?

[@StillIt]

We have babies :). A boy and a girl. Both happy and healthy. Mum is doing great :)

[@michaelnorwood5888]

Still It congrats man! I'm very happy for ya! I'd send you a couple of cigars if Customs wouldn't snatch them up

[@StillIt]

Hahaha thanks my man! Appreciate it!!!

[@timbosam]

Next time less chit chat talk.... more time on the subject and would also be good to be accurate on %age,

[@StillIt]

Let me go back 2 years in my time machine and pass that advice on :)

[@glenndavis1430]

Hi Still it I've just got one whinge about your channel you go on with way toooo much dribble .

[@StillIt]

Haha fair enough man.