HOW TO CUT CRISP MORTISE AND TENON JOINTS LIKE A PRO! [WOODWORKING]

what's going on everyone!? I've been asked a few times in the past how I prefer to make my mortise and tenon joints, and with some of my up coming projects that will be assembled with mortise and tenon joints I figured I'd take a minute to show you my preferred process that I use to make nice tight mortise and tenon joints. I think its fair to say that a lot of beginners are intimidated to try them out. My goal in this video is to show you there really isn't a whole lot to them, and with a little planning, they're definitely achievable for anyone with any level of background in woodworking.
#mortiseandtenonjoints #woodshop #brewbuilds
the tools I used to make this joint in the video are:
table saw
router (with an up-cut spiral bit)
square
marking gauge
chisels (1/2", and 1")
please feel free to reach out with any questions in the comments, or email.
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Thanks for watching
Rob✌️

[@jaredmiller8740]

Much simpler than I anticipated, wanting to build some weighted windows to match the others in my house in the traditional way, this absolutely made me much more confident in building the sashes!

[@jamesward5721]

If you size your tenons to suit whatever forstner bits you own, you can use a drill press to remove the bulk of the waste from your mortices very quickly by just marking a center line of the correct length & setting the depth on the drill press. 1 Mark, great mortices & easy. You can lap the forstner holes so there is absolutely minimal chiseling needed. Once you keep the bit on the center-line & make sure it just kisses the end of that line, you're good. Whenever I pick up a chisel, I know stuff can go bad fast if I ask too much off it. Less is better. Square the mortice using the edges of the forstner holes as your chisel guide. I use a 1" forstner bit almost always - repetition makes for goodness & I am far from naturally brilliant, so I try keep it simple - I then know I just need cut an accurate 1" tenon, clean the drilled hole using a 1" chisel (keeping it tight) & stuff will almost always go together snug with minimal marking & measuring. You can select whatever forstner bit suits - 1/2" 3/4" whatever - it keeps everything simple. Just my 2c. I cut a lot of mortice & tenons, so the easier it is, the better, IMO - there's enough to go wrong without making the marking/sizing fancy.. KISS.. :-) Make the Tenon the width of whatever bit you picked, go from there - cuts out the maths/ingenuity required. All you need to do the marking is a sliding square & a sharpie - you'll only be making 1 mark per mortice. Usually, you'll only have 3 measurements to make - waste to remove to get to the bit size on the tenon, length of the mortice & erm.... that's 2.. Yeah.. 2 measurements.. Easier. The 2 Measurements, 1 mark Mortice/Tenon - it ought be a "Thing". No marking is required for the tenon - none - marks are useless - just set the table saw to the correct depth to reach the forstner size - which is timber width minus forstner size divided by 2 (use a boggo ruler) set the fence/spacer to the correct width - which is the depth of mortice you want & run the wood through - no marks required on the tenon, but perfect tenons. You'll have to draw 1 line on actual wood - the mortice center line - but that's it, boiled down to the real essentials - just 1 line. Easy peasy. :-) Do it this way & you can chuck all the fancy marking stuff in yer bin - it's not needed. You'll only be drawing 1 simple line per mortice & tenon. Try it - you'll see. This way you also only need own 2 chisels - a 1" & a 1/2". Those 2 will cut everything. I have 2 chisels... plenty. I should do a "1 Mark Mortice & tenon" Video. Nobody would ever bother marking stuff up any other way ever again & 90% of marking gear would get binned. It's always just too complicated once you go beyond 1 or 2 marks - so lets not. 1 is loads. If you followed that ^ & do woodwork it ought be a revelation - how to mark perfect mortice & tenon joints repeatedly by drawing just one single simple line using just a ruler - but I have a feeling it will go "Whooosh" tbh... it usually does.

[@brewbuilds]

I 100% agree with you, I currently don’t have a drill press, or else that’s exactly how I would do it. I actually have a hollow chisel Mortiser, it just needs a little TLC before I can use it😂. Thanks for your info, someone else watching may have a drill press and this could really benefit them. 👍🏻

[@jamesward5721]

@@brewbuilds I don't think you really even need the drill press - I'd say a cordless drill & some care would get the same results. You just need a set of cheapo forstner bits, 2 chisels, a ruler & a sharpie - bang, perfect mortises. |:-)

[@brewbuilds]

@@jamesward5721 for sure. I stopped using pencils or sharpies for my joinery layout. Anymore I use a marking knife.

[@joeybela4581]

It works well if the wood is thick enough! I was making some mortises straight through the center of the board and was having blowout on the backside of the board, even going slow and backing it with some scrap

[@brewbuilds]

Yeah I’ve ran into that same problem myself. Thanks for sharing, it’s always nice to get these comments to help add value for other people that are learning. 👍🏻

[@MrMittens1974]

Nice video thanks. Appreciated. I'd buy a wireless DJI mic to cut out the workshop echo.

[@brewbuilds]

Thank you! At the time of this the video the dji mic didn’t exist. 😂 but I do have one now. 😉

[@DavidAlison]

Exactly what I was looking for - thanks Rob!

[@brewbuilds]

No problem, thanks for watching!

[@luisotero6292]

Many thanks, that’s exactly what I was looking to compare.

[@brewbuilds]

I’m glad I could help, thanks for watching! 👍🏻

[@frank8534]

Nice video man thanks

[@brewbuilds]

I’m sorry I’m about 2 months late. You are welcome! If you ever have any questions don’t hesitate to reach out [e-mail]

[@JamesKelly89]

How do you feel about those Dewalt chisels? I have the harbor freight ones and found they won't hold an edge so I was thinking of splurging on some Narex Richters.

[@brewbuilds]

I have the harbor freight ones also, and the dewalt’s are definitely better. They do fine for what I do, but I definitely want to upgrade to something nicer.

[@stevesiefken6432]

Thanks for the video! I cut my M&T joints exactly as you. Tell me about your spiral up cut bit. Yours looks much longer than mine. Do you know how long yours is?

[@brewbuilds]

Thanks for the positive feedback man! The bit is a freud 1/4” up cut spiral bit that I bought at home depot It’s marketed with 1” cut length, but from the minimum collet burry mark on the bit you get around 1-1/2” o actual cut depth if I remember correctly. In the video my mortise depth was about 1-5/16” or so.

[@stevesiefken6432]

@@brewbuilds Thanks for the feedback! I’ll take a look at HD. The bit I’m using is just short of 3/4”. Really appreciate it!

[@brewbuilds]

@@stevesiefken6432 no problem! When I get back home I can get you actual measurements of it if you would like.👍🏻

[@stevesiefken6432]

@@brewbuilds I would really appreciate it!

[@brewbuilds]

So my up cut spiral bit is 2” overall length, the cutting portion is 1” and from the tip to the minimum burry line is 1-5/8”. Hope that helps man!

[@TheLawngestYard]

How did you cut your finger 😜

[@brewbuilds]

I’d rather not talk about it. 😂😂

[@raytry69]

We came for the good content, not for the "music". Don't ruin your videos with it.

[@MrZOMBIE170]

if a pro had made the mortices & tenons then they would have got the mortice & tenon ratio right , just because you have professional tools and machinery doesn't make you a professional.

[@brewbuilds]

What ratio do you normally use when making your mortise and tenon joints?