How To Destroy A Proto 2000 Model Train Part 2

It seemed like a good idea at the time. Be smart, don't do this.
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[@ChobertonJunction]

Brilliant video. As you say it is good to see that not everything turns out right. Excellent work and sorry the repair failed but lessons learnt.

[@theangelsmodellingandrailways]

Fair play dude, you tried and learned, all good. Sharing these 'fails' is proof that we're all human. You will master most makes of these locos in no time. Such is your perseverence, keep up the good work Dave.

[@danielgibson1656]

A majority of the time when those model power e7 locomotives are sluggish its typically the flywheel mounts are too tight so if you loosen the screws it will solve the issue but i would go through and clean and lube everything that needs to be as well

[@maltnz]

Northwest Short Line make a series of solid pullers .... pay for themselves over time with reduced stress and savings in broken parts. You could try the cheaper pullers from China first (for RC cars and often with free postage). Work well with wheel sets but may not be strong enough for flywheels.

[@VolfMark]

That happened to me while trying to remove flywheels from a Proto2000 GP9 motor. They are pressed directly onto the armature shaft, making them extremely difficult to remove. My dad helped me by holding and twisting the flywheels with two set of pliers in the opposite direction until they gave way, but became very scratched and the shaft also bent. I was generally disappointed with how this model was built, poor power pickup, cracked gears... I eventually got rid of it.

[@seanspennywisemiserrr]

Hi Dave. It does appear to be an AHM. I have one. It only has a three pole motor. If you want to put a decoder in it, you are best to change the motor to a 5 pole. Mine is sitting as an upcoming project.

[@dbrhall]

Hi Dave, that CP is a ModelPower, extinct US brand. Nice vid! Congratulations 👏🏻

[@w.rustylane5650]

If all else fails always use a bigger hammer. LOL. If you had a North Shore Line wheel puller you probably could use it to pull the flywheel off. You'll just have to remember, "sometimes you win, sometimes you lose and sometimes you just get rained out." Cheers from eastern TN

[@robertcornelius3514]

Scott's ad on ebay, "Don't know much about trains. Appears to be in good working condition. Only $50."

[@ScottRails]

lol. But I only buy, never sell.

[@casstelles]

Your locomotive is an E7A made by Model Power (Roco). The screw behind the cab on the roof and the huge motor with large flywheel is a dead giveaway on who made it. Model Power had versions in both E8A and E9A along with the matching B units. All these locomotives used the same frame and drive system which means the shells are swappable. Also, Con-Cor released versions of this locomotive from Roco with one noticeable change of the mounting screw on top being removed. Since, I don't own any of these E unit locomotives from Con-Cor; I do not know if there are any changes in the drive system. I just own an E7A and E8A from Model Power, and they seem to be a decent pair of locomotives. As far as this locomotive's performance, it could use a tune-up. I recommend cleaning the gears and relubing the drive train. Make sure the flywheel moves freely and the bearings are oiled. A stiff flywheel will make it perform poorly. Also, I would make a solid connection to the chassis with the bare wire off the motor. This connection relies on just the friction of the plastic motor clip to hold the motor down to make the electrical connection with the chassis. These clips can loosen up over time, and it will make a poor electrical connection. With all this said, this might make a candidate for Tune-up Tuesday video.

[@roady1710]

Hey there's another one of those motors with those gold flywheels

[@roady1710]

And don't worry Scott I still enjoy the channel You're up in Canada hey ....

[@BriansModelTrains]

I fail often.. Flaunt the imperfection! Cheers.

[@ModelTrainOutsider]

Well, it does suck, but you have perhaps save others from making a similar mistake. Hopefully, you will find something cheap and still salvage it.

[@bobspeer6774]

I just loved your expressions there.

[@Parktonman]

I would say a very old AHM/ Rivorrossi made in Slovenia or Yugoslavia. I have parts of one. The gears were crap. I replaced the whole bottom with a Proto. 2 weeks ago I threw away a Broadway Limited chassis for a E 6 loco. Of course, I stripped it for parts. Would have helped you out for parts. Some you just can't save and don't pry on motors, you found out the result. I would have pulled the large flywheel out and made a driveshaft. Live and learn. New CP GP 38 headed to the Central Kentucky shops for shipment Canada !

[@Quince828]

Silk purses and sows ears comes to mind 😉. Nice try though

[@richardw5507]

I had thought manufactuters heated the flywheels to expand them before fitting, but the internal hole would probably reduce in diameter. If you have a flamethrower, it would make for an interesting vid 😊

[@ScottRails]

My wife reckons the shafts were frozen with nitrogen and the warmer flywheels pressed on.

[@S.J.McDougall1962]

The Proto flywheels are pressed on unlike the Athearn.

[@ScottRails]

Well that explains a lot.

[@terrytraina6080]

Dave pull that can motor a part and clean it well I have 3 and 1 that's what I did it works better take care dude

[@MilkshakeFloof]

i know what the problem with the chassis for the old loco, it seemed to be mazak rot, basically an impurity in the metal that makes it super weak overtime till it litterally falls apart

[@maxorus9]

Ah model power, a fallen flag that made pretty alright locomotives. They aren't exactly the finest made locomotive, but I do enjoy them for the prices you can get em for.

[@johnparker7874]

Model Power E7. Brick technology, noisier than a bag of hammers in a washing machine. Okay runner, when you can keep the motor from spinning in the cradle.

[@robvandeursen9574]

I got a similar loco and it ratlles the same. I think its the strange coupling between the motor and flywheel that causes the rattle, but I've never come round to change that. About removing flywheels (it's too late for this one): use 2 screwdrivers to pry them off, rather than one. It puts less stress on the axle and it means less friction when force is applied on either side of the flywheel. Or, alternatively, spin the motor and use a file to make (grind down) the flywheels smaller or in a shape to fit the new frame. Both worked for me on some projects. But I destroyed some motors as well :)

[@ScottRails]

I tried levering them off with the needle nose pliers at either side. It was not for moving.

[@richardlawler7108]

The model was made in Austria by Roco.

[@dennisarmes3473]

hi dave !!! i have done the same "experimenting" with several engines just as you did in the video. i agree... "do not do this" !!! fyi, nowadays what i do is put any engines that have insurmountable problems in a separate box and use them as spare or replacement parts. i have actually used old ahm drive shafts on my fleet of p2k engines, real old athearn bearings have fit nicely in at least 2 kato engines, and to top it off, i have salvaged worm gear clips off of a walthers engine that in turn fit at least 2 other manufacturers trucks !!! as you said, much less frustrating.... i go to my local pub for a plate of fresh, hot chicken wings ( i am 30 miles directly south of buffalo, n. y., the home of this delight !!!) and several ales after such problems, then come home and run trains and build stuff for my pike contented and, as our friends in pink floyd say, comfortably numb !!! retirement is great !! blessings to you, dave and keep the videos coming !!!

[@WindmillJunction]

Model Power with old school ROCO motor

[@markriley3412]

You should design and 3d print a new frame for the GP38. 😮

[@larmo5633]

Not everything can be saved, you'll always need parts though, admit defeat and on to the next project

[@kensbackshop6399]

Definetly a ROCO OR A ER DRIVE

[@joeraderblackrockcentralrr]

Always refreshing when some one actually shows the screw ups. We all goof once in a while. Nice try

[@ScottRails]

Sometimes I just can't accept a result, hahaha. Pesky physics.

[@williamsantangelo]

Sorry Scotty, it can happen to anybody

[@MarkWick]

Actually, you did succeed -- in turning an operating engine into a dummy.

[@caboosech]

That's a model power made

[@kensbackshop6399]

Maybe even a CON COR

[@AllenCNW441]

You can tell it’s a ConCor because the body is attached by that screw on the top.

[@jameskleman5298]

Vice grip on each side and twist it

[@ScottRails]

I didn't want to risk damaging the fly wheels with such brutal tools. hahaha, still managed to mess it up.

[@garyjrrodgers5830]

Rocco drive

[@user-bf1oc6zt1z]

Too Funny

[@roady1710]

What can you work on that definitely your brain cells were not rubbing together on that one

[@ronaldoribeiro1978]

Você vai precisar de um saca polia HO

[@eaglesfly5236]

need a gear puller.

[@TimsBitsnPieces]

Damn...what a bummer..... orh look first comment yipeee....

[@brianwilliams9741]

Greese

[@roady1710]

Slow down slow down hoss those flywheels on your motor are probably a press fit they're not going to come off you keep doing what you're doing You're probably going to mess that motor up