How to: Develop black and white film

In this video i take you through the steps of developing black and white film from start to finish.
For 35mm Film processing and high quality scans visit:
www.foresthillfilmlab.com
some of the supplies you will need to do this at home is
film developing tank and reels (patterson recommended)
changing bag
1000ml graduate
100ml graduate
scissors
bottle opener
kodak powder fixer
heico perma wash
rodinol (many companies make this)
kodak photo flo solution
film hanging clips
1 gallon container (2)
film squeegee (optional)
pre wash - 3:00
developer - reference www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php for developing times (agitate 10 seconds every minute)
first wash - 3:00
fixer - 5:00-7:00 (repeat agitation process)
second wash - 3:00
perma wash - 1:00 (constant agitation)
final wash - 5:00
photo flo - :30
hang dry and enjoy your new photos!
/ killindreams
/ foresthillfi. .
/ travis.mortz
[e-mail]

[@molinkie]

Nice video. As a teenagerin the early '60s, I was loading those steel film reels with 35mm Tri-x. I'm 73 now. All these KZbin videos about processing your film yourself have me thinking about trying it again. I think I still have those Nikor steel tanks and reels but I miss the tiny light-tight darkroom I had in the basement back then.

[@harrystevens3885]

You can put the film leader in the paterson reel past the bearings in the light without taking it out of the cannister then put reel and film in changing bag then feed it as usual from the canister into the reel then cut when you come to the end leaving you with a empty undamaged film canister and a half inch leader which you can then refill in your bulk loader.....Never used a bottle opener in 30 plus years of developing 35m film. Must say you have created one of the very best analog film channels on KZbin, really excellent viewing for us film nuts.

[@RonDicken1971]

This brings back so many memories! I can feel the reels in my hands. In High School we just used the darkroom, but we had a dark closet that we loaded film on the reels in college. I've never used the Jobu (sp?), but the other two I've used.

[@ktheis1]

Good instructional video! As to the Fotoflow, I take my thermometer and dip it in the bottle of Fotoflow, then put about 4-5 drops in my film tank then add the water for a 30 second rinse. You need so little that my bottle is still half full after 10 years. I've never seen the Jobo system used before. Sure looks easier than banging around a metal tank.

[@chickenitsa]

In your vid, you asked for hints about diluting Photo Flo: Wetting agents such as PhotoFlo break the surface tension of the film so that water will flow down its surface rather than bunching up and causing calcium crust after drying. A couple easy ways to dose: 1) By eye. Get an eye dropper and squirt enough PhotoFlo into a beaker of pre-tempered, pre-measured water to cause just a bit of forming. 2) Mix a batch! NOTE: PhotoFlo can be RE-USED at least several times (I've been doing it for more than 40 years). Use distilled water. 20ml of PhotoFlo concentrate will make 4 liters (a little more than a gallon) of working solution. (In fact, in my opinion, you can use slightly LESS Photo Flo concentrate than Kodak recommends).You can divide the working solution into smaller, half gallon, bottles for use. Lastly, about squeegeeing: Did it when I was a kid. It was fine until one day I ended up with a nice, long (barely visible until enlarged) scratch, the length of the roll. When right through my sister's face (she actually looked a little better). About 25 years ago, a photographer from the L.A. Times turned me on to a better solution: Kimwipes. They're a kind of 'high tech Kleenex' (same manufacturer, in fact). My negatives are spotless. Hope this helps

[@KnitOutTheJams]

Christopher thanks so much!!

[@MileyonDisney]

Great demonstration of how it's done. Thanks!

[@nicoladavisonreed9310]

great - having a few rehearsals spooling on the film- great lessons many thankyous

[@jonbranden]

Hey Travis! When I process film at home, I mix the wetting agent like you do. However, when I was still in school, the university darkroom would premix it in large batches (maybe 2 gallons) and store at room temp in an airtight container with a spigot. They would then dump and remix it every week. We never had any issues related to clouding, smell, etc., like some people report. I think in the end, it all comes down to making sure everything is clean and airtight (like most chemistry-related things). Hope that helps!

[@johncburns]

Thank you for this video. I have had my own problems with spooling film onto Paterson reels. I will try your method.

[@dennistakespictures1751]

Amazing and informative. Very much needed.

[@davebickle4913]

thanks for the tips on loading film on to reels was having a bit of a nightmare but sorted now thanks

[@charlesdavidson4815]

Excellent left hand capture technique. Thanks!

[@asaphjeffrey]

Very cool, interesting, and a wonderful refined technique from which to improve my process. Thanks!

[@ForesthillFilmLab]

+Asaph Tal im so glad you found it hopeful. i sometimes forget that everybody does this differently so even when my process has been the same for years I'm probably doing it differently then others. its great to hear that you can use some of the info in the video.thanks for watching!

[@SeanSun]

Great tips on how to roll the film on the spool, especially on how to deal with films popping out. I always panic and restart all over whenever it happens, which is very very frustrating.

[@zand7128]

Ive only used a metal reel and i love it. I have never really used my finger to lay it it. I curl the film with one hand and turn the reel with the other with the sides of the reel resting on my curling hand

[@walliswizard]

Superb video, now I NEED one of those JOBOs!!!

[@markharris5771]

I use Rodinal, it's a great developer and I only ever use the Paterson reels. I think the biggest advice you can give anyone starting developing is not to panic. And keep notes about different mixes/times with different films.

[@Lawful_Rebel]

With photoflo I just put a tiny drop in the paterson tank and agitate for 30secs after rinsing with water. It works brilliantly.

[@lightloving683]

It’s obvious that the man develops A LOT of film and is passionate about it. So If Travis or anyone else is getting the results they prefer with the process they are using - Jobo, small tank, squeegee or no squeegee, etc. - why be critical? You can argue ad nauseam about technique. I personally do not like results of Rodinal with continuous agitation, but that’s me. If Travis likes grainy, contrasty negatives more power to him. He obviously is not getting scratched negatives with his Paterson squeegee or he wouldn’t use it. So calling this tutorial ‘lousy’ is well, just lousy.

[@randallstewart175]

Well, I have not called this video anything yet, but as you bring it p, it is lousy. Generally, chemical reactions are not subject to subjective analysis or opinion. I agree with your observation that Rodinal is a grainy developer ( which I would not use) made worse by continuous rotational development in a Jobo. For very specific reasons, continuous agitation is not preferred for B&W, unlike color which is specifically designed for it. It's not very clear, but it looks like after using a fixer flush, he's washing one pass in the jobo, which is just about no wash at all. Again, not a matter opinion, but if that's what he's doing he owes a big debt to all the folks who send in their film and pay to have it developed like this, because their film is going to fade.

[@wslandry]

Wow what a great user friendly information video!

[@sytran666]

I've done 100ml in the jobo (speed P )for a single 120 roll. Everything came out great. I also use freeze packs to drop the temp in the jobo.

[@danielbatts9386]

Another awesome video!

[@YassefSelman]

very educational, thanks!!

[@slipton6493]

The Hewes 35mm stainless reels are very easy to use I've found. In the center of the reel are two "horn's" that you slip the sprocket holes onto when you first begin. You then rotate around and around until you have the film loaded. In the past I struggled and struggled to try and load other brand stainless reels and they are junk.

[@peoriavideosltd6822]

For 35mm, the Hewes reels have two little hooks down near the center, which are designed to catch the sprocket holes and ensure that a) you have secured the film at the start and b) its centered correctly within the reel. Hewes are expensive, but worth it.

[@GaetanCormier]

I just use 2 drops of Photo-Flo for 500ml of water.. more than enough!! .. great vid!

[@brianmccutcheon3205]

Appreciate your videos

[@stephenwhited1833]

Have you tried the Cinestill 96 one step developer fixer. I tried it and love it. I don't push or pull because I try to get the shot right the 1st time. It has given me excellent negatives and is a whole lot easier than when I used to use Kodak D-76. Also it is reusable for 16 rolls. The rest of the video is great!

[@1989Goodspeed]

love Fomapan, really cool film... and fairly inexpensive.

[@martinslattery2363]

Great video. How much would the complete system you use cost? Takes alot of the guess work out of it. Given me an incentive to grab myself a film camera. More interesting than the digital process.

[@MitzyGale]

My cats are looking at me weird cause I fist pumped and yelled, "RODINAL"!

[@Igaluit]

You use an eyedropper for photoflo - 2-4 drops for a 500ml tank. And you must use distilled or demineralized water for the photoflo step otherwise you will get streaks.

[@Mazzeltoph]

I do it with regular tapwater and get zero streaks, but of course that is totally dependant on the quality and/or hardness of the water where you live. We have pretty good water over here in my city but the wather in the eastern provinces of my country have a lot of calcium so i would not use that water :p

[@redone2612]

Brilliant thank you.

[@mikaromppanen357]

Thanks for the videos! I have played with a thought of buying used film camera. After developing your film, how are you printing selected photos? Do you scan your negatives to computer or do you have a specific equipment?

[@FidelityDenim1]

I just developed my first roll of film with your help. Thanks dude. I'm wondering, do you ever load 2 rolls of 120 onto one reel? It seems like there might be enough room.

[@greghudgins9751]

did the video an oldie by now. for those who are seeing this and using he Patterson reels. I use my pinkies on the edge of the film as I roll onto the reel it keeps it from binding.

[@ezekielkokspeaks]

hi Travis. thank you for sharing this video. i tried the stand method and the film didnt come out well sadly. oh well. it kinda taught me a lesson to do it properly. even though i don't have a jobo, the manual handling does give me a satisfying feeling coz of hands on. i use hc110 coz we don't have rodinol here in Singapore. i wanna ask how you keep the temperatures consistent over the process?

[@2sambell]

Outstanding video!!! I've ordered the gear for the BW developing process. Will you recommend a supplier for the chemicals?

[@sandrociancio7550]

Very nice

[@KnitOutTheJams]

Ohhhh my fuckkkkk I’ve been ruining rolls of 120 attempting to use the Patterson reels because it’s what I had. That metal reel looks sooooo good. I can’t wait to try them at the darkroom next week.

[@HaydukeDuff]

If youre reusing the permawash (I think that's what you called it) wouldnt you just be washing. Your film with what you originally were wanting to rinse out?

[@bedevere007]

What is that feel you use? I thought you said jimbo Feel? I want to order it. Thanks for another great video

[@macbookdieter]

Nice video, I would add that pulling tape off of 120 film could cause static streaks. So, take it slooow.

[@parolajd]

Hi from Bangkok, do you shoot you B&W film at box speed?

[@MihaiMalaimareJr]

hi, awesome videos! thanks a lot for all your info. I’m fairly new to Jobo, got a a CPP2 with lift just a few months back and I totally love it. Processing C41 is really a pleasure and again, thanks for your C41/Jobo video :) Now, my main fear with processing b&w with Jobo is the continuous agitation. I’ve been manually processing b&w for almost 25 years now and in my experience agitation is important but the rest times in-between agitation are crucial for details in the shadows. If I wanted a high contrast negative I would agitate continuously and skip the wash between developer and fix. My plan with using a Jobo for b&w is to develop on the lowest rotary speed (what speed are you using by the way?) and wash it without using the Jobo, just putting the tank on the table and fill it all the way up and let it rest for 2 minutes. I hope this will give me the details in the shadows by not washing the developer entirely. What do you think? Did you ever feel you loose details in the shadows because of the continuous agitation of the developer? thanks, Mihai

[@ForesthillFilmLab]

Mihai Malaimare jr you know that's a great question that I haven't really thought much about. The constant agitation in my opinion has only made my negatives better and for more detail in the shadows I usually just add a bit of time. I would however like to see a comparison of negatives shooting the same subject and developed rotary vs. inversion. What you're saying makes total sense but I really feel like the constant agitation of the jobo doesn't minimize shadow detail. Like I said I've never done a test to be sure however.

[@randallstewart175]

Continuous agitation of B&W kills the build-up of apparent sharpness at the contrasting edges of your image which is otherwise obtained with intermittent agitation. Your proposal to end a Jobo run with a 2 minute stand development period in water is a form of compensating development tacked on the end of the development process. Compensating development allows the developer in the film to be used up in the highlights (dense areas) while letting the shadow (thin) areas of the film continue to develop because there, the developer has not been fully consumed. So for the same total development time, continuous agitation will not "loose details in the shadows" compared to non-continuous. As a practical matter, 2 minutes of stand development in water at the end of a normal development period, continuous agitation or not, seems unlikely to show much difference in shadow detail increase, but it would be an interesting experiment to see how much the effect. It would not restore the loss of apparent sharpness in continuous development.

[@neilpiper9889]

use fingers to wipe last rinse photoflo medium format film. Do not do this on 35mm. Just photoflo dip and hang dust free place. Wipe any drying marks off back of 35mm film only as they have a hardened layer. Don't use squeeje. But hey what do I know. Started development of films aged 11, 61 years ago. Get a film/development combination and stick to it if you want predictable results. Experiment on unimportant projects.

[@matthewsteinle5268]

what do you think about the new cinestill monobath

[@ashfaque_1]

Nice video Travis. One query though. According to the 1500 series tanks instruction that comes with each tank, Jobo explicitly tells not to do the final wash (Photo-flo or something similar) inside their tanks and reels. IIRC, something to do with too much foams (that can leave some spot when dried) and the reels getting sticky quicker over time even after washing them in warm water. Did you notice any difference? Ash

[@ForesthillFilmLab]

I haven't noticed any negative effects on my reels or my film from using them through every step of the development process. I've read that color stabilizer is what's bad for the reels but ultimately I'm not gonna take my film off the reel to do these steps so I stick to the way I'm doing it now.

[@patrickjones8174]

I was taught to use stop bath before the fixer. Any reason you do not?

[@crwn_munkz]

How much perma wash for a 500ml paterson? I got the heico perma wash that has to be diluted with water but the label is scratched, cant read the instructions

[@df446]

Yours is the best demonstration of threading onto a Patterson reel that I've seen. The sprocket hole pointer will solve a lot of frustration for me I think. What about touching the surface of the film when loading? I'm always worried about that when threading, and it makes things more difficult. Is that a concern?

[@ForesthillFilmLab]

Im glad my demonstration was helpful! while touching the film is always a bit worrisome you have to realize that the part of the film you will be touching most is the most outside part of the roll which is usually the already exposed leader......once you've got the film guided into the reel its gonna take a few ratchets before you're even to the images anyhow. so obviously load with some caution but touching the film is no problem

[@wslandry]

I notice you mentioned you have been developing film 10 years or more probably. Do I need to purchase that red film dryer you have or can I do without it for a while?

[@ForesthillFilmLab]

Honestly I looked high and low for a film dryer because it was the last piece of my darkroom I listed after but no you don't need one by any means. I hung dried my film for many years, my best suggestion is to steam up your bathroom with a hot shower running for a few minutes and hang your film to dry in there. The steam will keep the dust down and you can isolate the film until it dries nicely. Once the film is dry any dust should come off easier then dust that dries onto the film.

[@thefilmplane.7787]

Oh boy, you gave me the chills when you used the squeegee on the film like that, aren't you afraid to scratch your film when you do it like that?

[@PurosOipunx]

Have you ever developed using a cafenol recipe?

[@matthewsteinle5268]

I use 3 drops of photo flow in and fill the Paterson tank with distilled water

[@laxamana23]

Thanks for this video. You’re one of the reasons why I started shooting film. I do have a question with my first 2 120 film I developed. The upper 1/3 of the film when I pull it out has a purple streak running all the way down the strip. It’s happened to both films. I’m sure it’s on my end but don’t know what I’m doing wrong. I followed Massive Dev Chart app which gave me the settings of: Tmax100 Rodinal (1+25) @260ml 6min dev time. 5min. Fix Fixer that I use is from Formulary Inc. TF-5 archival rapid fixer. Any advice would be appreciated in this. Thanks again.

[@ForesthillFilmLab]

Rex Macabebe that means the film didn’t fix all the way properly. Maybe when you rolled them both on they overlapped? Maybe when loading the second roll on. Put a piece of scotch tape between the rolls to prevent overlapping. You won’t tape any images doing this. Also. When the film comes out purple like that. You can actually put it back into the fixer for another 5-10 minutes and it will clear it up. Wash as usual.

[@laxamana23]

ForesthillFilmLab ok I’ll try that again on the next roll. Thanks for your suggestion.

[@So0nerMag1c]

idk if anyone has said this yet but when you load 120 onto a metal reel, theres a spring loaded tab on the inside of the reel that holds the end of the film so you don't have to while you spool it on or at least while you start spooling it on

[@ForesthillFilmLab]

yea i know about that clip. it seems like its more trouble then its worth most of the time and all reels are a bit different so i didn't really touch base on it. if i knew how to use it with the clip i would but i learned without it

[@So0nerMag1c]

either way works, i learned by feeling for the clip and feeling the film's way under it. To each their own. Love the videos though. Done plenty of developing and darkroom printing both color and b&w at my college(getting a photography degree currently) and its a lot of fun so you're videos finally pushed me over the edge and I ordered everything I need to develop my own b&w at home so i'm pretty stoked about that. Thanks for the videos and keep it up!

[@ForesthillFilmLab]

Cory Klabunde dude that is awesome to hear! Add me on instagram @killindreams id love to see some of your photos Once you get to developing!

[@So0nerMag1c]

I already added you a few days ago lol, once I get into it ill tag you in a few

[@wolfskin91]

I like your videos, very good. You can show that developing isn't very difficult once you get the hang of it. Now what do make out of the film ? What process do you use to amplify it ? Do you have any cheap process to make your positives? Thanks.

[@ForesthillFilmLab]

Bakuz I use an epson scanner to digitize my negatives. These can be had for about $100-$150 and pay for themselves rather quickly when developing at home.

[@carloscorona2423]

Do you have a video on developing pushed film? I find myself pushing tri-x to 800 now because I like the results i get from the lab, but know the came with this "we need at least 8 rolls to push to 800" so i decided to buy my develope at home kit, but have no idea what to do for the +1 stop push.

[@ForesthillFilmLab]

Carlos Corona easy! Go to the master development chart and it will have times for every iso and film. Pushing film is simply just developing longer so it should be easy to figure out!

[@carloscorona2423]

@@ForesthillFilmLab Awesome thanks man! and thanks for the videos! you've inspired me to shoot more film and learn how to develope myself, lets see how many rolls i fuck up! lol

[@namonty4]

For the photo flo, I used an old medicine cup from an empty kids cough medicine. Clean out obviously.

[@The8TrackChap]

Can you end up with different amounts of grain in images based on how you agitate?

[@randallstewart175]

A little bit, but the big factor is the type of developer used. Rodinal is the A-Number-One grainiest developer available. It's grainy nature is often accepted as a tradeoff for it also yielding some of the sharpest images, however continuous agitation in a Jobo machine will go quite a ways to killing that sharpness. Frankly, continuous agitation for B&W film development isn't the best technique. Grainy negatives are not so bad if you're going to scan them and put them into video mode, as the scanning, Photoshopping, and electronic viewing limit the potential image quality to an extent where it may not appear much different. However, if you plan to optically enlarge to finished print (wet darkroom work) or do large inkjet prints, it's going to show an obvious difference.

[@ShahShaha]

I'm not sure if you're gonna reply this since it's been over a year but I was wondering if you could explain or elaborate about the relation between ISO of the film and the developing time. I wasn't sure what the ISO of your film was.

[@Igaluit]

Slower films (ie.100 Iso) Irequire longer developimg times, faster ones like 400 need less (consult the Massive Development Chart).

[@BrianNguyenIHASDACANSER]

turns out i've been loading my film wrong thanks Travis!

[@christopherhowell3209]

Great video''s.How do you scan your film?..I have a good lightbox on a copy stand, and use my dslr

[@nickfanzo]

Christopher Howell Epson scanners work

[@filmlabakbratislava6020]

hey mate, it's interesting to see how everyone has their own style and twist :) don't mean to be an ass but why don't you use a vinyl gloves for loading and handling chemicals? Seems like your hands are very dry. I've been using Jobo tanks for years and had no idea that you can load film the way you did :D I always load it like you loaded Paterson...silly me :D thanks bud! Btw, I shoot a lot of fomapan 400, it is a great film but needs to be shot at 320 or 250 and developed as 400 at least it works for me that way :) I wish Tri-x would be cheaper here in Europe... :P

[@blackbelt4488]

Is Travis still doing videos?

[@steveg8322]

No Stop bath?

[@nickfanzo]

How about by hand without the machines?

[@mamiyapress]

Good video but NEVER use a sqeegee to wipe the film it will eventually scratch it. What I use instead is a small piece of chamois-leather rinsed out in the water containing the photo-flo with the excess water squeezed out and when the film is hanging up wipe the non-emulsion side only down from top to bottom ( with the bottom of the film weighted with a clip) the result is no water marks and no scratches.

[@randallstewart175]

With Photoflo, your film will dry quickly - no squeegee is required. Just hang the wet film and let it dry. A squeegee WILL scratch your film as it picks up micro-dust and dirt. Doing it many times, as here, is a guarantee of scratches. On soft emulsion films, you also risk wiping the image emulsion right off the film base if you wipe as hard as shown. [Like "No Wire Hangers!" in Mommy Dearest!]

[@randallstewart175]

Seriously, from the moment you start using it, a squeegee will pick up micro grit and dust which becomes embedded in the wiping material [sponge, not great, or rubber blades, the worst]. Extended use will cause that grit to scratch later films. That's a "when", not a "maybe". If your unwiped Photoflo treated film drys with spots, you are not adequately diluting your Photoflo stock to a use-solution. My confession: IF I wipe my film, I use two fingers (fat and hairless) dipped in Photoflo to lightly swipe off excess solution (one pass only), then dry in my lovely, air-filtered film dryer. Note: if you get water spot, then use Photoflo; if you get Photoflo spots, use a more dilute solution. A film dryer will speed up the drying process, but it will not, by itself, change the result.

[@MrKen-wy5dk]

19:16 How do you get the right temp water when you live in Houston, TX and normal tap water is 85 degrees F? Not one KZbin film developer person ever seems to address this issue. It seems that everyone who develops film lives in the Northern parts of the world and does not even consider us poor slobs who sweat it out on the Gulf Coast.

[@ForesthillFilmLab]

Mr. Ken that's a pretty easy answer ken. Use water that you put in the fridge or use a few ice cubes. I keep cubes in my film fridge for the summer months when my tap water is too warm.

[@Garacha222]

Same here, I also keep a bunch of ice in the freezer. I have a tub with all the chemicals ready for use in that bath, and place tap water and some ice to cool the tub water... all processing chemicals are at exactly the same temperature, and the thermometer in the bath lets me know when it is ready. I also have a sous vide heater in the bath (instead of ice) during the cold winter months. That heater is so consistent and accurate it is a godsend for removing the temperature variable in film processing. I don't ever use the heater for cooking as any chemical cotamination will cause sickness/poisoning. www.amazon.com/dp/B01HHWSV1S/ref=asc_df_B01HHWSV1S5509591/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B01HHWSV1S&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167141308073&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9538448115850348901&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032050&hvtargid=pla-313332394486

[@floyd7820]

If you're doing black and white can't you just do everything in a dark room?

[@Igaluit]

For 120 I find that method unruly. I cut off the first foot or two of paper till I feel the beginning of the film, then load the film on the reel, leaving the paper fall off towards the ground as the film is loaded -then cut the rest of the paper trailer at the end as usual. I find the whole recycling of chemicals thing confuses beginners. i don't recycle as I couldn't be bothered and don't want to take a chance.

[@frogfish36]

1:25 ist 1 part Rodinal and 24 parts water.

[@rodrigopages1054]

hey ive been having trouble developing! i already fucked up 3 rolls and im super upset about it i dont know what ive been doing wrong but i followed the same steps as i did the first time wehen my rolls came out perfect but then this last 3 rolls i tried ended up comming out 100% translucent like no pictures where on them i dont get it! help please

[@ForesthillFilmLab]

Rodrigo Pagés it sounds like maybe you missed the developer or maybe fixed your film before developer. All film has numbers standard on the film so if the film is completely clear it means that the film had fixer on it before developer.

[@rodrigopages1054]

ForesthillFilmLab no there's no way I put the fixer first like I put ilfosol 3 as first step everything single time! I literally repeated the same process I did the first tow times I developed and this time the rolls came out with no pictures :(

[@ForesthillFilmLab]

Rodrigo Pagés that's very weird. In the past I have made the mistake of forgetting to add the developer to my water for the first step and this is what happened. My film was completely translucent. Hmmm the only mistake you could have made was fixing before developing I know that sounds crazy but if the film has no number on it even then t wasn't developed at all. Hmmmmmm

[@rodrigopages1054]

ForesthillFilmLab no my film has the numbers just no pictures it's like the developer or the fixer is too strong it's killing all the silver on the roll

[@ForesthillFilmLab]

Rodrigo Pagés oh no really? Well you're not gonna like hearing this but it sounds like you might have misplaced your camera then? If the numbers appear then the development process is correct. The developer or fixed would not remove the light exposed frames regardless of how strong you my have mixed it. If the beginning of the roll shows black from being loaded and the frame numbers show up but no images? It's likely that the film was never exposed to begin with. When you load your camera do you advance it at least twice while the back door is open?

[@MitzyGale]

Now we're in the dark, panicking. Story of my life.

[@ForesthillFilmLab]

+M.G. Carter haha i know it....i have some friends who will remain nameless that have had some real trouble rolling film.....i made this for them haha

[@Lawful_Rebel]

I don't use a 'Squee-jee' thingy. Far too easy to scratch film. That squeaking made me cringe.

[@ForesthillFilmLab]

Ugh my god I couldn't agree more! That squeegee was absolute shit. I agree. I no longer squeegee my black and white film. However my color film does require it. I bought a nice Paterson squeegee that is much much kinder and gentler then this garbage one in the video. Thanks for watching!

[@Lawful_Rebel]

+ForesthillFilmLab I'm a B&W developing novice and I'm pleased I found your channel. I just use in between two fingers to remove excess water after photoflo and film dries streak free. I'm sure that will make folk cringe more :) I look forward to more videos. I would like to eventually get round to developing C41 next then maybe E6. So it would be great to see a video about that kind of film developing if you get round to it. Great stuff mate and the F2 is an incredible piece of equipment. My favourite camera by far.

[@Garacha222]

(A COUPLE YEARS LATER) I just viewed, and had the same reaction (cringing as I viewed the squeege action). Instead, I first clean a microfiber towel (the kind used for cleaning lenses) on both sides with a 'lint brush'. (the kind of sticky brush that you use to remove lint and pet hair from clothing.) I then hang film in the drying cabinet, wiping the film once from top to bottom with that 'lint-free clean towel covering both front and back of wet film, with very light finger pressure. When reaching the bottom, I then clip the bottom with a weight. To speed up the drying process, I have 2 florescent lamps attached end to end that are hanging inside the cabinet. another thing I do is to steam the drying cabinet ahead of time to remove any dust in the air. I use to use a cheap electric vegetable steamer, but now simply use a fine mist spray bottle will water in it. As the mist falls, it brings the dust to the walls/floor. I highly recomend the above practice. I get clean negatives (no dust), without scratches and also the negatives dry very nice with a sideways curl that can't be beat for flatness in the carrier. I also refuse to use those pastic pages that store film (so conveniently), but since using a nikon 35mm digital scanner, I was amazed to discover how many tiny scratches they create for me. Maybe it is how I use them, but never again. It probably won't matter in an enlarger, but high res scans seems to show up the scratches. Maybe I am wrong, but will not go back to those pages. edit: by the way, My drying cabinet is a cheap 'portable garment rack' that sells for $20 to $35. (actually I bought 2 so I could make the poles taller and the top highter so that 36 exposure rolls would not touch the ground when hanging. They have them at walmart/ bed-bath-and-beyond. At the top, I install a thin metal rod picked up from the hardware store or an arts-&-craft store. I attach paper clips to that thin aluminum rod, and hang the film by the sproket holes with the paper clips.

[@sahilkulen]

You mentioned that you dont't use those plastic sleeves for storage of 35mm film because of scratches. What do you use instead?

[@Garacha222]

Sahil Zafar, I use a 'continuous roll' (100 feet). the one I have was from B&H a few years ago, back when it cost $26. I still have some for use. below is the link for a description. ( The price has since doubled.) www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/220000-REG/Lineco_F1235006_Polyguard_Roll_Film_Continuous.html This style allows you to open the protective plastic, and wrap it around the strip of film. I leave extra before cutting, and write notes on the extra section. There is certainly a lot to be said for the convenience of the common regular full storage sheets ... for notes and for proof printing. These 100 foot rolls are just another option. I have one for 120 roll film as well. I would go back to sheets if I could insert and remove strips from the front (without any potential damage) instead of from the ends. for any possible scratches, I thought I read that Ansel Adams use to simply apply oil from his nose to the film negative, and the scratch disappeared for printing purposes. I think wet printing is much more forgiving. It is with high resolution digital that the problem arose for me. Maybe my emulsion was simply softer than others may experience. similar roll www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/220003-REG/Lineco_F1235007_Polyguard_Roll_Film_Continuous.html here's a cheap $25 roll I found being sold on Etsy (only 1 at this price, but may have some dust on it., which could be dealt with) www.etsy.com/listing/530671729/35mm-negative-sleevingarchivalware35mm?gpla=1&gao=1&&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3v3YBRCOARIsAPkLbK54B_6rbgtEv4ZWZnmsm5QGjKMDZIoQjA6fWCWfUSPc83x-aOrTOhkaAlgvEALw_wcB

[@randallstewart175]

Rodinal has been around for over 100 years. It has some unique features. The stock chemistry stays good in storage nearly for ever, which is the only reason people still use it. On film, it produces the largest grain possible, not a positive feature. If developed with normal agitation, say 5-10 seconds each minute, it yields some of the best edge sharpness to be obtained with any developer. However, used in a continuous agitation (Jobo) system, as here, all those sharpness features are lost, leaving you with poor grain characteristics and minimal sharpness. Nice going. At least, use a manual tank and get the only good development feature Rodinal provides. I hope even the newest and inexperienced to DIY development would figure out that scraping your wet film with a squeegee as shown here is is a pointless undertaking which will scratch your film. This is terrible advice. Even once is once too much. The repeated assault on your film shown here is just nuts. Just use a Photoflo type of final wash (in distiller water if you have hard tap will like me) and then hang your film to dry. For color, put Photoflo in the stabilizer (last bath). If you have one, throw out the squeegee. Overall, this is a pretty lousy tutorial.