How to DIY a HUGE 50 amp RV Solar System

We can run our AC all night, which makes boondocking EVEN BETTER! Join us as we show you how we do solar 2.0, in our DIY "Off-Grid" size solar system on our Cougar 34tsb.
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[@WeCanExploreIt]

Thanks for stopping by! I'm sure I forgot something in our solar setup, so if you have any questions or if I missed describing something, please drop a comment and I'll be happy to help. Thanks!

[@nwalker7008]

Hey, thanks for all the info. As a newbie solar person, I just wanted to drop a few things..1st, I think you have 7.680+/- kwh battery not a 15Kwh..when you add the 2 12 for 24 you don’t double your aH..second, you may (and idk for sure) but if you connected the Growwatt together for 240, then used a transformer to auto switch it back to 120, that may have lessened the amount of reconfiguring on your panel in RV. 3rd I think the easiest charge and use scheme would be with an additional charger, so maybe there’s a way to wire that into the cutoff you plan to add.

[@kw5kw]

I have a 2020 Cougar 30RKD (50A) with an outdoor kitchen that I do not use (well used one time right after we bought the camper in 2020) and have been thinking of doing just the same thing. I am going to go 24 Volt, not 48 or 12, same as you but just yesterday I purchased a 'pre made' battery from SignatureSolar. 100 Ah, 5120 Wh and I don't have to build it myself. I'm going to start with battery and inverter charging while on shore power as we (the wife and I) don't 'boondock'. My 6Kw inverter and batteries are going to fit inside that same compartment just fine, however, mine is directly over the wheels so I'm thinking that will help with the some 170 pounds a bit better. I am still in the planning/ordering stage and wondering how you did your wiring for the inside panel... you touched on it briefly starting at the 8:30 mark. What did you do? How/why did you do it? I'm thinking of a switch 1 for shore power, 2 for inverter power and having a separate 24v charger to top off my battery while plugged in. My camper sits inside my 40x50 garage with full hookups as an extra bedroom and bathroom at home on our farm. We depart 2~3 times a year for a couple of weeks and I want A/C when at a roadside park (making sandwiches) while enroute to our destination . We got 'caught' last summer in Nebraska while spending 3 weeks with our daughter. They wanted to look at some dinosaur bones and we didn't care to look at them for as long. So we were stuck inside our F250 diesel running the A/C with fuel being >$5.50/gal while they looked at bones and ate their sandwiches running their generator in their camper. We had no such option. This will take care of that and solar panels will be added during the coming months. I stayed awake all last night thinking on how to run them. We have the same leveling system and I'm keeping the 12v system for the same reason as you are. Russ 10/25/2022

[@pauldem544]

@@nwalker7008 It's a 15kWh battery bank (Each battery is 320AH @ 24V = 7680Wh and the batteries are connected in parallel).

[@jaydensimmons4637]

*I use this solar **Generater.Systems** at work. The building is 80 years old so there’s not a lot of electrical outlets. I use it for lights, fans, charge phones etc. works great !*

[@MarkEichelberger-cw6cb]

As a very seasoned RV tech I applaud you for your solar system! No quality work/projects can be done in an RV with out serious battles... nicely thought out

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

Thanks a ton. After watching this video I did something similar to my 30 amp RV. Thanks. I'll post the install video.

[@tomk2871]

I am running a very similar system on my 40 ft toy hauler. 2400 watts of solar, eg4 6500 all in one, two eg4 48 v server rack batteries (10200 wh) like you I keep my AC and 12v DC separate but running two 12 volt Li batteries and a 200w 12v solar panel panel. Works great! I added a transfer switch to keep my solar system and shore power completely separate. And a 48 volt 18 amp charger so I can keep my batteries charged from a 15 amp AC outlet if needed. The setup works great for me like yours it's evolved over time. Thanks for sharing your awesome system

[@Tech4Ten]

Interesting, I like you build, so I was thinking originally to use Transfer switch like you, however adding a 15amp AC breaker to RV Breaker box and wire to AC input of inverter/charger. But still would run into same issue as noted in video where when plugged into a 15 amp shore plug, would be limited to shore 15amp since inverter would be charging. And I would have to flip off 15 amp breaker I just wired and flip transfer switch to inverter. Sometimes all this work around makes me think victron's power assist feature really is worth it.

[@John5ive]

this is the kind of solar video and system I needed. your channel and videos deserve way more views

[@Monumentalmic]

Very helpful video, I will definitely be reaching out in the future. Just picked up a newer 5th wheel with 50 amp hook up. Thank you!

[@lenalphin1680]

Great information Nick!

[@akshonclip]

You absolutely do need to keep the inverters synced. If you only have one neutral wire running to the panel. If the 220 volt phase cycle isn’t 180 degrees off from each other you are effectively doubling the amperage through that neutral wire.

[@gmajolyn2294]

Nice work!

[@DanielBoone1294]

This is awesome! I'm wanting to do something like this for an off-grid RV on Airbnb, and i couldn't find anyone using an all-in-one like the Growatt or EG4. I already ordered a pallet of the SanTan T-series 250W panels. I'd love to see more about how the RV's electrical system is wired up to this!

[@roberthosking7524]

Great info. Love the fast explanation. Subscribed.

[@orrinkelso9295]

Very nice system! I also bought used panels and saved a bunch of money.

[@fishinggunsflyrods]

Very Impressed So Far

[@JP-bd4zl]

Doc Emmett Brown intro was very cool And excellent information Thank you

[@kent5201]

I love how you decided to leave the original 12 volt system in place simple.

[@brandonp4255]

Awesome information thank you.

[@XxN8iVeSc0uTxX]

wills my dude, he has the best info on solar

[@jacque403]

Thanks!

[@Platypus_Warrior]

Thanks for explaining the Amp/hour vs Watt/hour battery situation. So many Americans do this mistake over and over...

[@SuperSushidog]

Wow, great minds think alike. I'm planning on a similar system. I think I met you and spoke with you about your Insty connect last year at Quartzsite - one of 10 million other people who did so, I'm sure. We have been FTing for about 4 years now, boondocking most of the time. We only have a 620 watt array now, but it is mounted on the side of our MH so we can lift it to the correct angle to capture the most sun. We used gas struts so it practically lifts itself. We have been using a tiny battery bank of 2 GC-2 golf cart batteries, which means we had to run our generator for a couple hours if we miss a day of sunshine, so we need a lot more battery capacity to take advantage of all the power we're losing. We have a 600w PSW inverter that we run our 55" TV, sound bar, and desktop computer off of nearly all day long. The biggest current draw is our blower motor for our furnace. This first phase cost us about $1,500 to build ourselves. Your 12v system can always be charged by your converter, either through your 24v bank by your inverter or by your generator, if necessary We just ordered 8, 280ah prismatic LiFePo-4 cells, a little smaller than yours to replace our 2 well used GC-2s, to make a 12v 560ah bank that has about 5 times the usable Kwh we currently have. These fit perfectly in the place of our current GC-2 batteries, saving us about 35 lbs. too. We will be using a Radio B Tech Smart BMS (with cold weather protection), and we will be replacing our Progressive Dynamics 60a lead acid converter with an 80a LiFePo-4 compatible one of the same brand. We just received a Renogy 20A DC-DC battery charger so we can charge it with our MH's alternator, as well as our 5,500-watt generator. This will complete the 12v phase of our solar system for a total cost of around $3,300. We intentionally left our MH roof free to rack some solar down the center, over the AC shrouds. We will be using 8, 455-watt Solarever Solar panels from San Tan Solar that are only $286 each right now. This will give us 3,640 additional watts of solar. We plan on racking them on the roof, just above our AC shrouds. We will be using a single all-in-one PIP 3048LV-MK 48V, 3kW, 120V PSW Inverter, 80a controller and 60a ac powered battery charger by MPP from watts247. ($692) We will be building a 48v bank using 16, 302ah prismatic cells and will be buying high efficiency 48v DC Hotspot 12k Btu heat-pump that I will mount on the rear of the MH with the heat exchanger in the bedroom. This unit is twice as efficient as a standard roof top AC unit, with no inverter losses, allowing us to reduce the size of the rest of the solar system, saving not only money but a lot of weight too. We should be able to put together this second phase for around $8.5k, which is not too bad for a system of this size, including the $2,100 DC mini-split). This second phase will provide 24/7 off-grid air conditioning and heat from the heat pump and allow occasional usage of our front rooftop AC to cool things down for peak afternoon demand. The total capacity will be 22.6 Kwh of batteries and 4,260 watts of solar (3,640 watts flat and 620 watts liftable) which should be more than enough for our needs for a total cost of around $12k for both 12v and 48v systems if we keep it a DIY project.

[@RollinHomies]

My neighbor has the 48v 3k GW. After he saw my dual victron 24v 3kva 240v, is now selling his GW. The “assist” function to supplement shore power is well worth the extra$. You’ve got a great build and did a lot of homework👍🏼 I’m full-time in our rig so have the best was the only option for us. Cheers🤘🏼😃

[@5400bowen]

Shore power? Solar is aimed at getting away from shore power. Victron is overpriced garbage and now they let the uninformed set themselves up to just keep buying power from utilities to run their solar? Real confusion there.

[@5400bowen]

PS, if you learn to speak English, you’ll get more out of life.

[@michaelbosen879]

What I did on my 12 volt system was run a seprate 12 volt 100 watt solar panel to keep my 12 volt starter bettery charged. That way I didn't have to run the expencive wires the length of my rig. You make great videos! I appreate your willigness to share what you would do differenty if you did it a again.

[@Tumbleweed5150]

The 12 Volt system is NOT for a starter. It's for things like the 12V lights, the water pump, and... as he mentioned... for the levelling jacks.

[@Tumbleweed5150]

Also, with the size system he has, he could get by with a 12 Volt battery charger plugged into his main 24 Volt 120ACV output.

[@tomf2229]

Nick change your low voltage cutoff in your BMS and it will prevent any chance of over discharge. I like your system and your video. And Will is a great resource; I’ve been following him for years as well. Thanks

[@brentjohnson6654]

Another fantastic video. I don’t think you took a breath the whole time. Haha. It is all good and your delivery is very good. If we were to have a drink together I would be asking all the technical questions you would allow me so it is not a problem when you discuss those details. My wife was just on a business trip to South Dakota and enjoyed the cooler weather. We live in Texas.

[@b8t135]

I’m running a step down converter in my rv with the growatt inverter to power all my 12v it works perfectly

[@tracymeskel2839]

I built our solar system, with the help of Will’s videos and his book. I also used Tom and Stacey, at Great Outdoors Solar. 400ah lithium batteries, a Victron Blue 100/50 charge controller, and 840w of solar. I went with the victron, so I could put a battery sense on my batteries, and able to see the battery temp, and solar info. I purchased Ampere Time 200ah batteries. And they don’t have a Low temp cutoff. I’m going to get the Victron MultiplusII, cause I can adjust and supplement, and only have one inverter, instead of two.

[@oliverscorsim]

For joining the two systems I found going through a big step down converter to work great at replacing the 12v battery all together. I was lucky enough to build 48v and got my hands on a 250amp Dodge converter from the newer greener 48v trucks they don't actually have a 12v battery at all so that converter starts it and runs the truck. The 48v turns a motor the turns the engine harder 😂 kinda convoluted system if you ask me for a OEM but the parts are fairly cheap used and plentiful. I did a eg4 bank in one set up and a diy bank in another and this was a great solution to both but it's 48v. You could redo your pack so it's a 320ah 48v pack but I don't believe the growatts will work although they sell a 48v version that I actually use and love. Either way the easy route is a converter going 48v just makes a lot of things better as you pointed out going from 12 to 24. 48v is even better at making small currents for the watts which makes the wire so much cheaper sometimes that alone can offset the cost. It did in both my cases. I also made a 48v alternator for the ambulance that really does a nice charge quickly. It does around 6kwatts but a good suggestion especially since the rectifier can be mounted close to the charge circuit so the relativity cheap ac circuit can make long runs without the voltage drop of DC. Works like a champ for the last few years. Next is a system for the house/shop complex 😂

[@kevinherm3036]

I am really interested in this......will be working up something for our new toy hauler in the future I'm sure.

[@DualTasticToday]

Nice.

[@WeCanExploreIt]

Thanks!

[@rebelone77]

Awesome video. I am trying to figure out what I would need to run a 50 amp travel trailer.

[@DeekJohnson]

Great job...I did similar w 3000 growatt on a 30amp trailer so did not have to mess w circuit breaker. I put a two way switch in where my shore power comes, to by pass the entire solar battery setup if there was a problem, that then powers the trailer as normal. Paid off when the AC drained batteries too far down.

[@brianrhodebeck6465]

I always like low frequency inverter. Some reason Work for me last longer, but nice Set up And good video

[@Justin-jf4ub]

I was going to fill up my roof as well, but I'm smart enough to know things like AC need maintenance so went w less

[@craftymulligar]

Yeah i watch will already for years even though i use to read home power magazine before that. Good luck to him. From years ago using deep cycle batteries today you can have a compact system maybe even cheaper too with lithium and near future more lithium solid state.

[@GimpyCamper]

I like it

[@Sataylor47]

Here is a thought for your 12v systems. Hope this isn’t too wordy. I’m currently planning how I want to set up my fifth wheel off grid. One of my requirements is the ability to charge off of my tow truck. Essentially eliminate the need for a backup generator. I already have a 220 amp alternator in the truck and can add a second if I need. Here is my plan for the 12v system. I already have 4 gauge wire running from the front of my truck to the back of my bed. Looks like a homemade winch power kit. I also already ran the same 4 gauge wire to my current 12v battery bank on the RV that I can plug into the truck with quick connecter. This allows my truck to charge my 12v system while it is running with much more amperage than the little wire in the 7 pin trailer connector. I used a continuous duty solenoid up front so it doesn’t pull a load off the truck when the key is out of the ignition. I did this so my residential fridge doesn’t draw down the battery bank while driving long distance. Now part of my plan for the off grid system is to leave my 12v system alone to include the 2000w inverter that already exists. I will then wire that inverter to one outlet i installed next to it that I will plug a 10-13 amp golf cart charger to. That charger will charge the future 48v system I put in independent of the future solar and inverter charger. I’m also going to leave the 100w panel on the roof that is already hooked up to my 12v system. I know it’s not the most efficient but I wanted a way to charge 48v from the truck’s 12v system while driving or I can high idle while parked for a while to top off without the need for a backup generator. I will already have a huge weight penalty on the trailer’s gross for solar and batteries. Eliminating the generator will help. One bonus I see based off of this video is now I will have an alternate power source to jumpstart the 48v system in the event of getting too low in energy reserves. I may rerun the cables from the truck as 2 gauge. 4 gauge is what I had on hand and it served the purpose at the time for keeping up with the fridge on the 2000w inverter. I know I can get 12V to 48V up converter but they are not cheap. This method uses an existing robust system which will leave me with a backup power reserve to jumpstart the 48v system and allow for using the truck as a generator without pulling too much juice out of my alternator. Another key to this is the switch I already installed on the outlet that runs my AC to 12V DC converter that came stock on the RV. This will allow me to prevent my future 48V off grid system from trying to charge my 12v system while I’m using the 12V system to charge the 48V system. By keeping the 100W panel on my 12V system I will likely never even need to charge it from the 48V system except under rare circumstance. This will also give me peace of mind that I will have an entirely independent power system on the RV that I can easily return to original configuration in the event my 48V system has a catastrophic failure. This will guarantee my 12v system as well which is vital to the RV. My 12v sources will be shore power or the 48V system via the AC to DC converter, the tow vehicle, one solar panel, and the 12v battery bank. The one thing a may do to the 12V system is upgrade from the current lead acid bank to a more robust and smaller by size/weight lithium bank. I’m concerned about weight for the overall system so last thing I want to do is leave 4 heavy deep cycle lead acid batteries on the 12V system. I won’t need as many amp hours on that system then either as I do now. By doing thing this way it will also be easier to return things to near factory configuration if I decide to sell or trade in the RV later and recover my off grid system to place in another unit.

[@jayl6030]

Can u show more on this build .. that would be great

[@BLUECREEK333]

Idk if you see this now. But I would keep the setup the same, as factory. I did mine in 2021 same way as far as, it doesn't change my factory house batteries or charger. Yes, this is not as efficient to use lithium battery bank to charge lead house batteries, but, if I decide to sell my rv, it would take 2 wirenuts & 10min to electrically remove my lithium setup. It would take about an hour to physically remove all batteries and electronics. So 1 hr & 10 minutes back to factory. Now I don't have solar, but 15kw hours in a 12vdc configuration. If I did it again, definitely go with 24 volts. I can run my Air conditioning up to 10 hours. Then while driving, we run the genset, to recharge, or camp at campground with 30amp service. It's great to use ALL our appliances without starting a generator. Thanks for your video. Wish I had your (human) energy & enthusiasm.

[@DennisWintjes2]

Thanks Nick. Like #563

[@voltageadventure9071]

We use a 48v to 13.8v step down converter. However with the converter only being 30amp It is not enough to run the hydraulic leveling system of our 45ft fifth wheel toy hauler however, with a small buffer battery (5S lithium titanate oxide) It works perfectly. The battery takes 90% of the load while the converter just maintains its 90%-95% charge. This is the only chemistry we found suitable for a constant charge of 13.8v, and makes a perfect full-time buffer battery that can discharge at 200 amps continuous.

[@Tumbleweed5150]

There are 24 Volt to 13.8 Volt step-down or "buck" converters that have higher Amperage, but they can get a bit spendy.

[@dude4746]

I would suggest using a separate 15amp charger isolated so you can plug in to a 15amp 110vac to charge your batteries while your existing setup is inverting to 110vac for the RV. That would help with the issue you are having of charging and sourcing batteries at the same time.

[@Tumbleweed5150]

True. Too bad he didn't go with a 48 Volt system, as the new Chargeverter from Signature Solar works great, and can be adjusted for both Amperage, (0A to 100A), and for Voltage, (from 43V to 57V) It also can take either 120V or 240V AC input, (needing an adapter for 120V input)

[@sensatoliving989]

Have built a number of off-grid systems, and I'm not familiar with growatt inverters at all, but my next system will be a Sun Gold hybrid which is batteryless. So in the event of a battery rundown and you're connected to shore power it will just pick up from the shore power or you can run it without the batteries at all. They have an awesome rack mounted battery as well and a couple of those would give you a similar amount of power as what you have there for very reasonable cost

[@douglashilton4048]

I have 4350 watts of panels on my motor home, The most I've seen with these panels is 3400 watts, they are rarely pointed toward the sun, unless the sun is straight over head. but even with that I'm very happy. I also have a 6000 watt 240 volt split phase inverter and 15,360 watt hours worth of Lithium batteries. System work very well. I have almost 5,000 miles on the road in almost a year in with this system.

[@pmotorsports8276]

Thank for getting this information out. Where did you find tge growwatt inverters?

[@johnross6314]

I also agree, working to find a Inverter (I invented the name “Power Router Controller, TM”) which takes multiple inputs and feeds (up to high volt and amps solar, shore power, generator, even low voltage DC) to charge the batteries, which then pivots back to the output “inverter” side for AC and DC output, is the way to go. Who does this today? Good question. However my concept above the Bluetti 500Pro does (one or two bonded or separate), and can add more battery if needed). Unfortunately, the 12 DC output is limited to 10a. This system is also expensive. And is large device(s). The Bluetti 300 Max can build battery storage however the single inverter is small, You can bond two of them to double the load or split them like you do your Grow systems. EcoFlow has choices too. Either brand you use their built in UPS function that is able to take multiple input power designs to keep the output side running and batteries charged up. The issues with the premise solar generators…. Cost and fixed form factor. If there was a DYI system able to be built with the “Power Router Controller”, with component (separate) batteries, and input sources, would create a perfect RV (or fixed compound) system. Thank you for your excellent content.

[@RhondaO]

I wish I had a mind for this.

[@b.k.445]

sounds like a great way to re-upgrade an RV and save on labor costs. you can even resale some of those components (like both or even just one of those inverters).

[@craftymulligar]

Some of Will stuff that was tested solar cell. Some panel have parallel diodes that parts of solar is shaded wont shut the whole panel down. Similar to amorphous solar panel.

[@sail4horizon]

Nice system. I'm currently in the same boat. 30A motorhome, leaving 12V system intact to power the jacks, slide, 12v lights and fridge. In the picking out parts phase of building a battery bank/inverter/charger system. Currently I'm thinking 48V battery. 3.7v lithium pouch cells are available pretty cheap now being removed from electric car modules. 14, 71ah cells is about 3600 watt hours (I think). Looking at the EG4 3000EHV-48 all in one. I want to be able to fast charge the battery from the generator (5000w) and the EG4 will do 80A at 48volts. And still be able to run the generator for the ACs driving down the road etc. Might run a transfer switch to switch between generator or shore power to the inverter. Not sure what solar panels, haven't got that far yet.

[@WeCanExploreIt]

Sounds like you have a lot of research in! Sounds like it will be a great system!

[@tombrzeski8016]

Nick, thanks for info! I have a question what did you use for battery holding container?

[@eviljohn]

A 24v to 12v DC to DC charger is pretty common kit for marine applications. That would let you send power to your AGMs (assuming the unit supported that particular battery profile). The Orion-Tr Smart 12/24-15A Isolated DC-DC Lithium Charger might do the trick.

[@Tumbleweed5150]

For his purposes, I suggest a 24 Volt to 13.8 Volt Buck converter. It has a 40 Amp output. If he runs his 24 Volt wires from the rear to the front, that would make a smaller Voltage drop that putting the buck converter in the rear and running the 12 Volt wires to the front. I tried a 24 Volt to 12 Volt buck converter, and had too many issues with it being under-powered.

[@amsoiltek]

Nick, great work but remember that you need the 12v for your trailer brakes in an emergency with your brake away cable. Also did you see the YT over at Five2Go and the guys' massive 48v system?

[@dwightc3080]

To utilize the existing 12v system, can you install a 12v dc to 24v dc step-,up transformer, to make sure the charge controller inverters are always powered ? Put a shut off/on switch to control manually, or an automatic voltage sensor to only turn on when the inverters fall below 24volts.

[@rumingjiang69]

Excellent video! I particularly like the quick update in the end which closes the loop well. Thanks. One thing I'm curious if you have ever calculated how much battery power is required for boondocking one day and night comfortably, given the size, occupancy and insulation.

[@Tumbleweed5150]

The best way to figure that is to find out how much Wattage each item uses, and for how long you need to use it, each day. Add them all up, and add on a tad more, then you will know how many Watt-hours of battery will support your needs for a day. Multiply that by two for two days. Now, to figure how much solar you will need, not only to run your items, but also recharge the batteries, figure out how many hours of full sun will be on your panels each day. (This may vary if you have trees, etc. shading your rig). The amount of power needed to run your items plus the amount of power needed to bring up your batteries during the "solar day" is how many panels you may need. With that all said, I have found that a battery bank of 270Ah, at a nominal 24 Volts, (6,912 Wh), (actually 25.6 Volts if you can get LiFePO4 batteries), with 1200 Watts of solar panels running through a 3000W Growatt, which has the ability to take in 2000 Watts, worked well for my girlfriend and I. We camped totally off-grid for a couple of weeks, using an Instant Pot and Rice cooker to cook with, except for our coffee, which I made in an old fashioned percolator on a Coleman stove.

[@Tumbleweed5150]

The size of your system definitely depends on how much power you NEED to use. The less you NEED, the smaller system you can use.

[@rumingjiang69]

Exactly, comfort level varies from person to person. Many thanks for the numbers!@@Tumbleweed5150

[@davidgroves8049]

Hi! I did my research just like you! I suggest a 24volt 50 amp buck converter. this will step down your 24 volt system for your 12 volt side of your panel. I did not see a manual breaker on your system for your PV (hint you have to have one for building code) it must be a posative and negative throw at the same time. If you have one that is great. The funny thing is I did pretty much the same install on my 30 trailer but 12 volts(mistake on my part) The wire sizes are huge and expensive. My system is obviously smaller then yours 30amp coach 1 A/C with softstart. 280 DIY battery and 1 Vestwoods 100 amp. 3000 watt sungold power inverter ( 90 amp charger but you can dial it back) I would love to talk to you some time about all this cool stuff. I am getting a fifth wheel as my next step of RV and since you have done a 50 amp two leg system I would love you to empart on me your knowledge!.

[@denvera1g1]

If people dont have a toy hauler, it would be nice to put minisplits on the back or sides and cover the whole roof with solar, and the pop-outs. could live high on the hog, and even charge your plug-in hybrid trucks they'll force onto us

[@TheHuntingSpot]

Awesome!! I just ordered the growatt 48 volt 3000 48p Inverter to do the same thing. I ordered the 48v server rack battery though. I've been looking for a video showing this set up for a long time. Thanks for posting. I will have some questions for sure. Regarding the 12 V system I am going to attempt to discard my 12v old battery and wire in a 48 to 12 volt converter(30a).... Or just see if the converter box(the box that charges the 12 batteries when you plug into shore power)will have enough amps to run my slideouts/jacks.🤞

[@WeCanExploreIt]

Let me know how it goes. Thanks!

[@TheHuntingSpot]

​@@WeCanExploreIt thanks. Just finished it: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bZqqf59mi9KtbaM

[@swgerow]

What’s the fan noise like and heat buildup on the Growatts in a smaller compartment like that?

[@KennethLongcrier]

You might want to add a Battery Disconnect switch (It's safer than disconnecting the negative terminals from the batteries.)

[@johnross6314]

Starlink works great. We now have Home/RV version and the enterprise business system. Both power draws are minimal. FYI. Between your insta and Starlink, anyone would be covered with low latency high performance connectivity.

[@robwetch4469]

I wanted to find out about Starlink. We actually need better internet at home, but I'd like to have it for the 5th wheel too.

[@johnross6314]

@@robwetch4469 I am very happy. Even though I have fiber options at two locations (sounds nice, but reliability issues upstream), Starlink is the first order. Have a standard co-ax based internet as second system each location. I take the mobile on site for biz projects. We control our own connectivity. So far no issues for speed, reliability, low latency for VPN, apps and voice.

[@kw5kw]

I'm loving my Starlink.

[@adriangleprin6949]

Or you can add in the Victron 24/12 Tri Smart charger 30 amp

[@nephibahr545]

I have about 2500 watts of solar and 800 amp hours (12v) of battery. I ran a plug off of my inverter. I then plug my trailer through the original 50amp cord into the inverter. That way if there is shore power or we want to charge the battery via generator we just plug the trailer into the power source. The converter/charger powers all of the 12v and charges the battery at the same time. I did upgrade the converter charger to deal with the lifepo4 batteries. We dry camp 70% of the time but 30% we are somewhere with power included in the cost.

[@pauldem544]

You wouldn't happen to have a video of the Battery build? I am planning my own 24V build (smaller 230AH cells though) and am curious around some of the materials (cell spacers) and how they are kept secured with all the motion of the RV. Also planning to add a 24-12V converter in our case. In your case, I would replace the 12V Lead Acid with drop in 12V 100ah Lithiums (I got some good quality ones on Amazon with Cold Temp protection for $310 (ADCBatt). Then just get a low current 24V-12V DC-DC Charger and wire it into the closest 12V available where your 24V system lives. That's enough to keep the 12V system topped up from your solar/24V system. The DC-DC charger wouldn't need to be more than 10A @ 14.4V.

[@jasonwheat5242]

You lost me when you took out the outdoor kitchen! Lol just messing but I love my outdoor kitchen!

[@kw5kw]

I'm removing mine as well for the same reason. I've owned my camper for years and have used it only once. Bye, Bye.

[@jasonwheat5242]

@@kw5kw I think we have only cooked 1 time on our stove inside and maybe used the oven twice! The out door refrigerator has beer in it pretty much year around. 😆

[@stewartmhyre1528]

Awesome system for an amazing price. Do you have a wiring diagram you can post of your system?

[@M7PSOCCERPLAYER]

Hi! Thanks fir for your video. I have a question... did you connect your batteries in series parallel?

[@timberlandsinnovationsinc.140]

Here is an idea yu may be able to do tobuse power from batteries and charge at the same time. Add a second battery bank. With an automatic low voltage switch. Once one bank gets low it will switch to the full bank hole the ow bank recharges. And it will cycle back and forth.

[@VideoByPatrick]

I never knew an inverter will "refuse" shore power pass through IF the inverter does not see battery voltage ! Is that problem due to charger being inside the inverter ? My RV charger is sperate from my inverter and shore power flows even if battery is asleep/dead and inverter is not functioning. Of course I have to baby sit the batteries to again awaken them but at least my inverter does not block shore power.

[@placesonthelist]

I built my own 280Ah 12 volt battery using info from Will and Andy (Off grid Garage). I have a small 30A camper, 2000 watt inverter. I put in a transfer switch to change from shore to inverter power. The battery charger is hooked into the switch to disconnect it when on the inverter. There are large 24 to 12 converters, but the issue for you is the long large wire run from the back to the front, maybe under the trailer.

[@BurgessFamilyRanch]

How happy have been with this setup after using it for awhile?

[@adriangleprin6949]

I am about to do exactly the same. But on a C class. With a 24 volt 175 amp Alternator. Washer/dryer will be 240volt With two 3000watt inverters

[@samuelaguilar4068]

You can run a wire from 24 v charge controller load to your 12 v charge controller solar input and thats all you need to charge your 12 v system

[@Tumbleweed5150]

You didn't mention it, but I hope your batteries are LiFePO4s. If so, they are figured at 12.8 Volt, (or 25.6 Volts in a 24 Volt nominal system). If not, they could be a fire hazard!

[@eldy938]

Feb, 2024 the 50 amps objective is much simpler. Two 8000 watts modified sine wave inverters, each connected to a bank of 8 x 12 volts x 100 amps lipos. Then purchased a 50 amps inlets plug...

[@vagari889]

What is the idle consumption for two all in ones? Like 2.4kwh a day based on 50w each? Assuming you only get 1400 watts out of your 1850 solar panels, that means 1.5-2 hours of solar every day is used just to keep the inverters powered on. Not sure if Growatts have a power saving mode.

[@452trucker]

If you use a Solar Generator you CAN charge it while using it. The 2 types I have is a 700 watt Bluetti the other one is a Jackery. These 2 brands can be charging and using the power at the same time. Charging and Using is called PASS- THRU energy.

[@SamCarleton]

Add a Victron Energy SmartShunt so you know the state of charge if your battery, they are less than 150 USD!

[@mountaingrownnomad4212]

Hi Nick, for starters, I appreciate all your videos, research and knowledge you've acquired and so graciously shared with us all. Thank You. I've been full-time for 5+ years in a 21' bumper-pull. I set it up with 450w panels & charge controller, 2000w Xantrex inverter, six 6v golf batts in series and parallel config, in addition a 2000w generator (when needed). All has worked well! However, I now purchased a 35' Reflection fiver and need/want to have a larger system. I'm quite intrigued about this system you've created and without breaking the bank. Curious about the Santan panels. Were they used/blemished? Brand? Mono or poly? and how are they working out a year later? Thanks in advance for any answers! Safe n Happy Travels, 😉 Kristian

[@Tumbleweed5150]

The best upgrade you can do, if you can afford it, is to get LiFePO4 batteries. I live in an off-grid community, and we all have used the 6V golf-cart batteries for decades, but once I found out about LiFePO4 batteries, and was finally able to afford some, I will never go back to lead-acid batteries. No worries about having them inside my RV, even right across from me in my living room, as they won't off-gas. Also, no having to check the water in the cells, (and paying for distilled water).

[@Tumbleweed5150]

p.s. Santan Solar is a great resource, but you ARE taking your chances on getting a few bad panels once in a while. That is why most folks say to order extra panels. When I was setting up the solar system for my girlfriend's shuttle-bus conversion, I went with brand new 200W panels from Continuous Resources for $185 each, for a total of $1110 for six. I wanted to be sure they were solid and still under warranty. SanTan does the best they can do with used panels, but new was my way of showing my Lady-Love how much I appreciated her being in my life.

[@chrislconley27]

It seems like take your battery system and use a victron inverter charger and you have the perfect system without any headaches. Great job explaining your system though 👍🏽

[@DennisWintjes2]

If you figure out a better inverter model, please share. I won't be building until this fall.

[@noah786]

Hope you find a solution because I have the same issue of not wanting to mess with the original house battery system. I dont hav a separate battery system yet, still researching. Perhaps a dc to dc converter from 24 to 12 volt and just keep the house battery topped off?

[@452trucker]

Solar Generators have the battery, inverter and charge control ALL inside their easy to transport box. Check them out. You can also get additional batteries to add to the original unit.

[@TheHuntingSpot]

Yes but they are weaker and really expensive. See kzbin.info/www/bejne/nJXIi61qhturfZI

[@posterchild37]

Curious if there was ever a solution to integrate an onboard generator or shore power into a system like this. Would like to have the option to use solar/bank, generator, or shore power.

[@eldy938]

Hello, well a year later the choices are greater and prices lower... : ) How would you now connect a solar generator to a RV 50 amp inlet ? Heated power case with two built-in inverters and four string combiner? with ?x800 watts flexi solar panels...We already purchased 6 of them, not sure how many we can string together. We are now in negociation with a lipo manufacture to see if people can order turn-key 50 amps RV ready heated power case. Inverters now have a max. cap. of 8000 Watts and 3.5K of running watts...not sure if we have to get two of them... You seem to enjoy that kind of thinking/work...me too. :) Eldy

[@eldy938]

Hi, I'm doing the physical part of the Solar 50 amp project. Like you said, choices are greater and prices are lower. I have 50% of the system up and running smoothly, ordered the other half yesterday. Once installed on the 50 amps inlet, I move on to selling an automated electrical solution for 10 years to RV Dealers. Specs are as followes, 8 x 800 watts panel on a 8 String Combiner. 1 Renogy 100 amp MPPT Two x 8000 watt inverters 16 x 12 volt 100 amps(All in parallel) and voila, afterwards I have to design a freeze and shake proof hard casing...fun fun! :)

[@benkanobe7500]

My Growatt says it is supposed to only work with Growatt batteries (Li) and has the communication cable that is intended to interface with the battery's BMS. However, it also has settable values for Li. I am assuming you used the configurable settings for the charge profile of your custom Li batteries. True? If so, what parameters did you set? I know Li does not like to be kept "trickle charged" once at 100% charge and I am wondering how you prevented that. Any information would be helpful. Thank you!

[@jomijom]

Hi 👋🏻 Thank you for your video. I’m want to do the same thing in my travel trailer. Mine is 30 amps. I purchase a watts meter to calculate daily usage. Do you have a general idea how many panels and batteries I will be needing?

[@TheHuntingSpot]

Let me know how many watt hours you use a day and also how Many days you would like to run on the battery power

[@nathanbarlown764]

could use an automatic transfer switch? to isolate the power?

[@jeremywinchester5602]

I'd like as much information on a 12V system to run my entire camper. My camper is 30 amp and has the 12 volt system up front. It had 1 12 volt marine battery and I replaced it with two better 12V marine batteries that have a small 12 trickle panel for while I am at work to help charge those for the lights when its comfortable enough without running the gas generator. I am wanting to replace the gas generator with solar panels. I have 8 6 volt golf batteries I bought new for this. I know how to wire them and I already have all my cable for the connections. What size inverter do you think I need? Also a good controller? I have one ac unit. Any help is greatly appreciated.

[@robwetch4469]

Just to put this simply. How do I build a 50 amp solar system that I can just pull up to and plug my cord into it?

[@MP57719]

How does the system not short if shore power is plugged in and the grow watt is supplying battery power?

[@MrNebRebew]

What batteries do you recommend buying today, May 2024? Can you provide a link please?

[@markashlock9017]

Well enjoyed, but only partially understood. Currently, running a 30Amp system, I have 2, 206AH SOK LION Batteries, with 380AH’s of solar on the roof and a 1500W Inverter. This takes care of all my needs except for AC, which is unacceptable in Texas! It is my intention to set up something similar to yours, except for 30Amp. With the exception of changing to a 3000W inverter, I’m hoping to incorporate as much of my current equipment as possible. When I get ready to take the “plunge”, would you be open to a few question? Liked and Subscribed. Thanks!!!

[@jonbrown9490]

Do you ever use this in the cold months? How does it hold up when it's cold and dark early?

[@off-gridmountaineer4515]

I don't know if you have heard about MPPSOLAR inverters the LV-MSD2424 but it can let you run the grid why the solar panels are charging the battery or you can use the battery wow the solar panels are charging the battery or you can use MPPSOLAR LV-MSD2424 which is the grid and I just wanted why the grid is charging the batteries THANKS hope the comments makes sense.

[@lakorai2]

I would have gone Victron personally but I get it. Vicron is expensive AF.

[@joedigesu7004]

I did 2700 on the roof of a Salem 26 BHXL, a mini split AC, Solark 5 K and 4 eg4 48 v batteries. Have been off grid from CT to TX to CO since MArch, powered 2 additional campers at times, plugged in once, lost battery twice (operator error).

[@WeCanExploreIt]

Any pics of your roof panel install??

[@joedigesu7004]

@@WeCanExploreIt Yes, but I don't know how to get them to you. Email me my name at Gmail.

[@TheHuntingSpot]

@@joedigesu7004 awesome. Lost battery? How did you lose the battery?

[@HitchRollRelax]

Great video. I'm not sure I would ever attempt to install a solar setup in our rig (we have a 2022 Solitude 390RK). But, we are very interested in a complete solar system that can run our RV (especially the ACs) for extended periods of time. We are finishing up a cross country trip and we have seen some pretty awesome BLM locations that we really wanted to stay at. I've been hoping someone would come up with a all in one plug and play solar setup. I'm wondering if I've found one. Bluetti has recently come out with a solar generator called AC500. Its a scalable system so you can add to it. Its a 5000w system with an RV 50A plug. My thought was we could put that in our front bay easily and then add however much solar we wanted to the roof (I'd be ok with installing solar panels). What are your thoughts on this system for off grid RV'ers?

[@allencoleman2319]

I would, first, do an energy audit. Find out how much energy you use each day (in watts). Once you know this you will know how much battery you need to go completely “off grid”. Keep in mind One 15K AC will use around 1400W of energy. If you have 2 AC’s that will double the consumption. One 100AH 12v lithium battery will have about 1280WH (watt hours) of energy. If your AC uses 1400W of energy, it will deplete the battery in less than one hour. If the Bluetti has 5000W of energy you will be able to run 1 AC for just over 3 hours. That is assuming you are not consuming energy from anything else. You can see that it will take a significant amount of battery energy to be completely off grid.

[@Tumbleweed5150]

You may want to check out DIY Solar with Will Prowse. One of his latest videos is a review of a new solar "generator" that looks great, and can be added to if you need more power in the future. The unit is pretty expensive, and so are the add-on batteries, but might be well worth it for the ease of use.

[@denvera1g1]

7:11 How much power does your 12v system run? Can you just get 4 more cells and a 12v 50a controller and find a place for 1-2 more solar pannels? the 280ah cells are a bit more managable in existing 12v spaces.

[@adambarnett7438]

I live in my RV full time with two toddlers, would a system like this work for living full time in an RV? What was the total cost or everything?