How To Draft A Basic Bodice Pattern Using Your Own Measurements | Sew Anastasia

How do you make a basic bodice pattern block using your own measurements? Fashion designer Anastasia Chatzka shows you how to pattern draft a bodice sloper in her latest youtube DIY sewing tutorial!
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[@gabriellareti5055]

Hi! I'm currently trying to follow your tutorial. The front is finished, however you didn't mention that the full length gets a plus 1/8", I just saw it on your draft. On the back you're saying that the back arc (which is 7 3/8") needs plus 3/4" and you say it's 8 1/2". It's not, 7 3/8" plus 3/4"is 8 and 1/8". So would you please help me what is the correct measurement here? Thank you in advance. It's not a negative comment, we're all human beings, I'm just looking for the right solution for my draft :) Great video!

[@hollyb5446]

Gabriella-you read my mind! I just came here looking to see if anyone else had brought this up and if there was an answer. I kept going back and forth to the measurement video to hear what measurement was taken vs what she used to draw here to see if there was indeed an addition or subtraction of length (or, none at all). @sewanastasia, I’m also curious about the lines drawn which were not based on any apparent measurement (for instance, the inch above and below the M): are these lines just a standard line length, regardless of the rest of the measurements? That is to say, would I use that same length of line whether I was doing my daughter’s sloper (a size 6) vs. mine (a size 18)?

[@dommorgan1127]

I really find your videos comprehensible. However I got stuck a few times having to Google your definitions such as bust depth. I first reviewed your 20 point measurement video. But in this video, you are using different terms which I have to look up furthering my frustration. Besides that major factor in my own pattern drafting, ur youtube videos are great

[@SewAnastasia]

Thanks for watching. Ahh yes not knowing the terms can be frustrating when learning. I’m glad you are enjoying the videos. Sewing has a lot of techniques that have multiple names. So not only do u need to know one but two! Like a narrow hem …. Is often just a small rolled hem. Fun times.

[@Ju-wy4yb]

When iI tried to fold the dart on the front piece F & R didn’t aline at all so I couldn’t trace the curve (because there wasn’t one, just two). F so the right leg was a lot longer than the left one. Do you maybe have any idea on what could have gone wrong?

[@Cooperbsound]

Large bust? Lol same problem here

[@dqverify6797]

So glad I’m not the only one having this issue! My daughter is the busty one, not me, so this looks totally different from my barely-a-B-cup darts; I was sure I’d done something wrong. Her dart here is an isosceles triangle, not a regular one, lol.

[@r-anthro]

Can you make a similar video for pants drafting?! ❤Thanks for being awesome!!! You’ve helped me so much!

[@SewAnastasia]

I totally can! I will add it to the list.

[@chrisnorris3690]

Thank you for this tutorial! My draft was going great until I got to drawing the armhole. My line M is below O. Store bought patterns never fit me correctly because I guess I am very short waisted (don't really have much of a waist) and my chest sits lower. Do I extend both of those lines way beyond an inch to make this work correctly?

[@Kereru]

This tutorial is great but I'm struggling with point i - the "dart placement" measurement for the back. I went back through your other measurement video but I can't find how this was measured??? UPDATE: I've finished it anyway just guessing where the back darts should be. It still turned out great! I've tried other bodice block tutorials in the past but they were never as well explained or as straight forward to follow as this one. Thank you!!

[@SewAnastasia]

I am so happy you got it to work. The dart placement width is just the measurement that I gave. I think it is 1.25 or 1.5. I cant remember off the top of my head right now. You can actually change this up and make it different widths.

[@leeannlott1800]

It would be so nice if you explained EACH measurement and how you got them and then how to plot them. You know not A to Z but A, B, C, etc... Like: WHY did you square out 4 inches?????

[@AngelineZaghloul]

She does that in a different video on how to take all your bodice measurements. The link is in the description.

[@Jen.G]

Hi! Thank you so much for this comprehensive tutorial! Im super frustrated with myself at this point. The back piece went swimmingly. Im a plus size gal who carries all of her weight up top. My waist dart is not lining up on the front hem to hem and I can’t get a proper arm hole because my French curve doesn’t hit all the spots at once. I can’t figure out how to fix it. Any suggestions? Thank you!!!

[@sarahgreaves8229]

I am having the same issues. I've drafted it 4 times now, each time same issues🤔

[@amyjohoppins1087]

Same.. I 40 plus a poochie 'abdomen' I'm about to execute this video's instructions. Maybe I will remember to return here to say how it went.

[@robertamavendooglefraggler9463]

What worked for me was to bypass the M and just go with G to O. Then when I get to fit my sloper to me, I can make adjustments then.

[@SewAnastasia]

Hi, The easiest thing to do is going to be to leave extra fabric in your armhole and sew up a muslin and then draw the armhole on you and then transfer it back to your pattern. For your waist dart- its the bodice dart and skirt dart that are not lining up? If so you can move them any where you want to make them line up. Or maybe you are taking about truing your dart? You will need to fold your dart then use your pinwheel to go over it to smooth it out. Hope this helps. If you still need help you can sign up for a private lesson through sewanastasia.com

[@SewAnastasia]

Check out the above response. Thank you for watching.

[@Bebe-de6hk]

Thank you! I definitely could’ve used this tutorial like 3 years ago. I update m’y blocks every year with the HJA blocks. It’s gotten easier but at some point I begin to struggle through every time lol. I’m glad there is finally a detailed step by step video of how to draft the pattern

[@SewAnastasia]

Happy to help.

[@MxchiefMaykr]

Hi uhhh where does the measurement for q come from? Im super confused as the closest thing i have is measurement #20 from the measurement video and it's not really explained as clearly as the rest of your process how you get that mark. Am i just missing/misunderstanding something?

[@SewAnastasia]

Hi, Sorry you are having a hard time with you. Go back and listen to the video. I tell you how to get Q. Starting at 12:20. Happy drafting!

[@SewAnastasia]

Yes this step is a bit confusing. So. Take your waist arc measurement plus 1/4 inch, minus your dart placement measurement and that is Q.

[@wowitsclouds]

When did we take a bust depth measurement?? Because we didn't do that in your video about taking measurements. I assume it's the shoulder to your bust? idk

[@redrockrajahdog]

The bust depth measurement was in the video about taking measurements. It's timestamped so is quite easy to find. It's #9 at minute 9:20.

[@arosenberger87]

Of anyone reads this and is big busted! Buy a large french curve!!! This video was great... Until I got to the arm hole curve... And my French curve is not big enough because I'm a big busted woman.

[@SewAnastasia]

Great suggestion!!

[@labecquerelle9873]

Pausing between front and back bodices. YOU TALK TOO FAST AND YOU DON'T ALWAYS EXPLAIN WHICH MEASUREMENTS CORRESPOND TO ALL THE POINTS! I'm trying to take notes and keep up. Do you have a slow motion button?

[@SewAnastasia]

Yeah you can slow down the videos

[@labecquerelle9873]

Drafting a bodice is not difficult. Learning to do it takes time and practice. Correlating the measurements to the points on the pattern takes time. You say this is a tutorial. It's not. It's a demonstration of why you own the land speed record of drafting. It's too much to absorb in one video. You should break it into two, and start with the simpler back bodice. That will give you more time to focus on teaching how these lines you draw shape the garment. What is your thought process when you start to draft? Do you break it down into steps? Do you have a mental checklist that you go through? That's the sort of stuff to help others learn, because they are truly learning what you know. I wish you the best of success.

[@Blablabla44475]

Center front length, is that our length or 4 inches? You confuse me when you say, ok let’s put 4 inches here, instead of, “put your measurement of this or that here”

[@SewAnastasia]

Follow along with your measurements

[@Hailey875-n5i]

Hello, thank you for this! Question, at 9:18 you mention the dart placement measurement, however I didnt see this in the 20 measurement bodice video you did. Is it under a different name? Thank you

[@jenniferpingleton8389]

So glad I found your video, this makes so much more sense than what I've seen before. I've been trying to Frankenstein patterns together, because doing a full bust adjustment on a commercial pattern for 1½" just completely skews the pattern. Nothing ever fits right between that and having a short waist!

[@SewAnastasia]

This video might help you out. How To Sew And Tailor A Sloper Bodice Block Pattern To Fit You | Sew Anastasia kzbin.info/www/bejne/oXmwi3mfi811qNU

[@zarakaram203]

I've watched both of your videos and still don't know what is the bust depth 😅 can someone please explain 😭

[@SewAnastasia]

It is from the center of your shoulder to the biggest point of your bust on most people it will be their nipple. Then your radius is from the nipple to under your bust.

[@zarakaram203]

@@SewAnastasia thank you SM!

[@jilllazdane8861]

The way to draft L and K is completely missing. Could you please make a note for the missing section otherwise the sloper is completely irrelevant. Where did the inch and a quarter dart come from and what do u mean we can make it bigger or smaller for L????!!!!! Did u edit out part of the video for some reason? I have spent all this time and now I can't go any further because of missing content. I've spent all day on this so it's very frustrating. Is it just me?

[@SewAnastasia]

There is no L to K. Do you mean J-K? That is a Squared line out from J and then your bust span measurement. I feel like your getting it mixed up some how. I'm sorry. Did you figure it out?

[@jilllazdane8861]

@@SewAnastasia I've put it away in frustration but I will go and revisit. I went over this time and again and there were bits missing. I will revisit and check against what u have said here. Thank you for replying.

[@SewAnastasia]

@@jilllazdane8861 sorry you felt like something was missing. It’s all there. It might be confusing but it works. I hope you try again.

[@jasminballinger1400]

Hi, she's right!! At minute 20:20 on... the k measurement just turns up?... not sure how to get K

[@aaricia]

@@SewAnastasiaI have the same question. I’m not sure if it’s an edit but after you plot J on the back sloper a K, the word “Dart” and a little arrow appear and you talk about finding the center of that dart. I’m not sure what measurements got the dart there?

[@akosua8779]

I shall be reviewing this video alongside my text book Pattern-making for fashion design by helen armstrong...im tryna create all the clothes for myself hubby and 4 kids...long life dream

[@haymur8533]

Hey Anastasia. I'm so confused about which waist measurement to take. I mean should we take the upper waist measurement (natural waist/ where the sharpest curve forms) OR lower waist measurement (from where we wear our jeans or any trouser) to make a basic bodice block/ pattern? Our natural waist comes above the belly button and our lower waist comes below the belly button so what to do with this it's so confusing and frustrating. On the mannequin, it's hard to understand the upper and lower waist.

[@SewAnastasia]

You want your natural waist measurement. It’s the smallest part of your waist or when you tea cup to the side it indents on your body. If you where to hear high waisted jeans , it’s at that part of your waist. The lower 90s style of pants is at your abdomen which is the lower waist. Generally 3 inches down from your natural waist.

[@SewAnastasia]

The bodice is always made to the waist unless you want to make a full torso sloper & then that’s something completely different

[@haymur8533]

@@SewAnastasia Ohh Thank you for your reply Anastasia.

[@amyjohoppins1087]

And this is why she has the other video where she explains everything. How to perfectly measure YOUR body.... kzbin.info/www/bejne/nqnSind4qdCnn7c

[@BillieJoSunrise]

Also, most people, where the elbow bends is where your waist is at...my hubby messed up my side seam so it messed up my sloper so now I am going to try that measurement :)

[@kendal4452]

Wow! I've always wanted to do this. Thank you for making this so very clear. I just went ahead and subscribed as I am hoping to learn more.

[@SewAnastasia]

Thanks for subbing!

[@julietvickio]

Do you have a video for creating a draft for knits or super stretch fabric or swimwear? Or is there a technique to use to get those patterns from these slopers?

[@SewAnastasia]

I do not have one and yes there is a special way to do it. I will add it to my list of videos to create. I have been getting a lot of requests for this. Thank you for watching.

[@wildllama1282]

After watching your video on measuring and this one I was able to get much farther with the measurements than I had been able to in the past. Tho I always get stuck on M being way too low to match up with O and G. Do you know where I'm messing up?

[@SewAnastasia]

I am not sure where you are messing up but I would sew up the muslin and then correct it that way.

[@slaywhatyouneedtoslay]

I have the same issue, did you figure it out?

[@FantasyNightSky]

I finished sewing my bodice, but the back was so big. I have to try it again.

[@robinmazariegos1]

Thank you so much for this great video! I was just a little confused about the names of each measurement. I watched your measurement video and wrote down my 25 measurements, but then I couldn't figure out which measurement you were referring too.

[@SewAnastasia]

Oh boo. Grab the pattern drafting book by Helen Joseph Armstrong

[@robinmazariegos1]

@@SewAnastasia ok thanks, I will look for it

[@dqverify6797]

Omg, I came into the comments to see if anyone else had this problem or there was some kind of clarification somewhere! My daughter and I measured her along with the measurement video a week or two ago, and I finally sat down tonight to draft her a sloper, but only like two of the measurements plotted have the same names as what I wrote down, and I can’t figure out which is which! I’m pretty sure I guessed wrong on at least a few of them, but I guess we’ll see when I try to sew it up! We did have fun doing the measurements, and I love your videos! Thank you for sharing your expertise!

[@augeniasestokaite4674]

This is so wrong/fdup… I’m professional patternmaker I cannot believe that u dare to do this..!!!!

[@SewAnastasia]

What is wrong with it?

[@joyceprentice1350]

Too complicated for me.

[@TeraLangshaw]

I've watched the other video showing how to take the measurements but I didn't see how you got the "dart placement" measurement. How is that found?

[@SewAnastasia]

When you follow the steps it creates it. Check out sone of my other responses explaining it more.

[@BillieJoSunrise]

I had such an issue with the arm hole curve, but now I know it is cause my hubby had my side seam WAY off. However, on the back sloper, my J extended past the E line, I still did the same thing but my line angled in instead of out to meet E. Is this ok? And I am so sorry, I am trying NOT to be lazy - but I think you mentioned if there was ease or not in this (I have seen measure, draft and sew up) but can not recall your answer. I also wanted to say thank you from the bottom of my heart. I am a newborn when it comes to sewing clothes and I bought a pattern with 6 sections for the bodice and I got so confused on blending (who knew my body doesn't fit into a mold ;) ) - I am hoping with your tutorials (you make everything look so easy) I can make my own pattern. (It took me 12 hours to draw up and sew my pattern (with wrong measurements - sigh)) A friend asked me to make a monk robe and I said sure, that should be easy - then he brought me a fitted garment pattern - now I want to sew clothes, lol.

[@SewAnastasia]

I'm glad you were able to figure out the issue with the armhole curve! As for the back sloper, it's important to make sure your lines meet properly. Don't worry about being lazy, we all forget things sometimes. Regarding ease, I believe I mentioned it in one of my videos, but I can't recall the specific answer either. Keep watching and you'll find the information you need!

[@lynn794]

Thank you for doing this. I've watched many other videos on how to do this, and I always felt lost and intimated. Not this time. I recently followed your instructions on hemming a circle skirt. You made it so simple. Your teaching skills are absolutely excellent! The best!

[@SewAnastasia]

Omg I’m going to cry. I love hearing this. Thank you so much & thank you for watching. 🎀💗

[@CommunistCommando1]

Now I understand how it takes Patternmakers 5 years to train! Is it ever possible to learn in faster?

[@normahampton1702]

A very well-thought-out video. I also am a plus-sized, full-busted woman and I had a question about the front darts. I see there's a dart coming from the waist, but no dart coming from the side seam. I wonder if adding that would help the armhole issues listed below by Jen G, Sarah Greaves and Amy Jo Hoppins? And if so, which measurements would you use to create the additional dart (and how would that change the other front dart)?

[@SewAnastasia]

Hi, You can do a bust adjustment to get rid of any flap of fabric at the armhole. ( I need to do a video on this. It is very easy to do ) To add a side seam dart as well, you can just move half of your dart excess to the side seam through a process of moving a dart but just move half of it. I do have a video on that. kzbin.info/www/bejne/lXnRe4efibtgf6s Hope this works out for you . Keep an eye out for a bust adjustment video. 🎀 Anastasia

[@normahampton1702]

@@SewAnastasiaI watched the video you recommended on dart adjustments, and it was AWESOME. It creates so many design possibilities! The instructions were very well explained and it made total sense. Thanks for recommending! I look forward to your video about the fabric flap at the armhole.

[@abitofserendipity]

Maybe because I'm plus sized this doesn't work. I've taken my measurements several times and had another take them. Can't get the arm hole to line up. M always way below O and my curve can't cover them all😢

[@helenereimers2012]

I am also plus size, and I have the same issue.

[@jessicaraine8403]

Thank you for making this so informative and clear. It's a really intimidating process.

[@SewAnastasia]

This can be a very intimidating process. Just take your time & in no time it will be finished! Thank you for watching.

[@mrs_mooeing]

I wish the dart placement measurement was more clear! Even after watching a few times.... it also wasn't mentioned in the full body measurement video either 😓

[@SewAnastasia]

It is. It’s from your c.f to your center of bust. Depending on your size it’s usually around 2.5/3 inches from c.f

[@Ju-wy4yb]

Which measurement is used for F? Was it “dart placement”? That didn’t appear in your video in measuring, did it? 😅

[@Ju-wy4yb]

Like is “dart placement” just another name for some other measurement? Or do I just pick any length? 😭

[@Ju-wy4yb]

9:15

[@Ju-wy4yb]

Never mind I figured it out myself 🫶🏼

[@SewAnastasia]

Woohoo 🥳 Happy you figured it out.

[@1991diegocervantes]

So amazing and informative! And it doesn't even seem like a long video! You're awesome thank you!

[@SewAnastasia]

Very welcome! Thank you for watching.

[@haymur8533]

Hey Anastasia. I made pattern drafting using my own measurements but it turned out awful.. I did so many pattern drafts but unfortunately, nothing fits me as I look petite so it's hard to come up with an accurate pattern, and trust me it's so frustrating. what to do? I also drafted the pattern of the measurement you shared but as I am petite it's not my size so, I used the grading method to decrease the pattern size but still problem comes in the neck, and shoulder area, also dart goes above the bust point And it's a total MESS hhhh.. I am so frustrated, please can you help me with this? my brain is really not working

[@SewAnastasia]

Are you in Chicago? I’d come into the studio & take the sloper pattern drafting class. I would also suggest downloading my sloper pattern & making the fittings from that & then you can get your blocks fitted to you. SLOPER PATTERN PDF: How To Easily Make A Sloper Dress In Your Size! kzbin.info/www/bejne/pWWvd4pjoJaprqM I am also working on a whole online class for this. I know it’s a tricky process to understand

[@haymur8533]

@@SewAnastasia Thanks for your reply. But I don't live in Chicago. I wish I could be there.

[@haymur8533]

@@SewAnastasia Hey! I saw the video and it's so interesting. But in the size chart, you mentioned I am not finding my measurements, Giving an idea to you my measurement is Bust- 29", Waist- 25", and Hip- 34.5". I look petite. so, yaa it's lil complicated. What should I do? And what about upper torso, lower torso measurements? ???

[@SewAnastasia]

@@haymur8533 I would go with the zero for your bust & fit it to you & then take in the pattern & sew a second muslin after you have a fitting.

[@haymur8533]

@@SewAnastasia ummm okay but How?? Actually, I did garding method until it comes 29" bust. Is there anyway I can sent you the pictures of it ??? Where you can tell me it's right or wrong??

[@marceladelavega9864]

This is exactly pattern drafting by Helen Armstrong. Where is the sleeve pattern?

[@SewAnastasia]

In a different video. Check it out on my channel.

[@Deuteronomy-uw8ls]

What do you do if your left and right are not symmetrical? I breastfeed and I have one breast that is always a minimum of 1 inch bigger than the other side when I take all the measurements from your other video one side is between half an inch to 1 inch bigger in all front over the breast measurements how do I translate that to a sloper

[@SewAnastasia]

You might want to make one for the right and the left.

[@ibtissamedarkaoui2007]

please can you send the list of the name of each line as I struggle to understand certain name . Liam French ;-) and I would like to try this way

[@SewAnastasia]

Thank you for your comment! I understand that it can be difficult to grasp certain names.

[@face-in-the-crowd]

Is the bust arc the same as bust radius or bust span?

[@SewAnastasia]

They are different.

[@amyamabson]

Excuse mee.. recently subscribed. Where’d you buy your ruler?!

[@SewAnastasia]

Oh hummm probably on amazon. Check out my list for pattern drafting supplies here www.amazon.com/shop/sewanastasia/list/28QZ4QWBDSX67?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_aipsflist_aipsfsewanastasia_Z1W2AGWTJSZR8XQBXQKA

[@CulinaryGuide]

Thank you for this wonderful video. One question! Where did you get your pattern drafting tools?

[@SewAnastasia]

From all over. No where particular.

[@Artistjay44]

Thank for sharing the knowledge . I have a question for beginners about the body measurement number information process calculation and using tape to mark and how to drawing in patterns please

[@SewAnastasia]

Thank you for your comment! I'm glad you found the video helpful. When it comes to body measurement number information, it's important to take accurate measurements and use them to calculate the correct sizes for your patterns. Using tape to mark the measurements can be a helpful tool. As for drawing patterns, there are various techniques you can use, such as using a ruler or a pattern drafting tool. Let me know if you have any specific questions!

[@charlottehogberg9855]

Thank you for the comprehensive tutorial! I am confused at 12.30. When is the waist dart defined or measured? I don’t know what to subtract from my waist arch front. Best regards Charlotte

[@MxchiefMaykr]

I'm also super confused at this step! I've rewatched it like 6 times now and I still don't know where that measurement comes from and feel like I've really missed something?

[@SewAnastasia]

Yes this step is a bit confusing. So. Take your waist arc measurement plus 1/4 inch, minus your dart placement measurement and that is Q.

[@SewAnastasia]

Yes this step is a bit confusing. So. Take your waist arc measurement plus 1/4 inch, minus your dart placement measurement and that is Q.

[@latashajones3369]

Thank you. I actually drafted the front and back bodice for myself using your tutorials. You are clear and concise. I’ll sew it up and try it on.

[@SewAnastasia]

That’s great to hear. How are your fittings going ?

[@latashajones3369]

@@SewAnastasia the bodice fit great without sleeves. Now I’m adjusting for sleeves.

[@SewAnastasia]

@@latashajones3369 excellent to hear!

[@elizabeth4053]

Wow! Okay I’m going in on this sloped. Other sloper tutorials haven’t worked. Lol

[@bdude93]

Newer to sewing. Is there a specific reason all your allowances would be 1/2 in EXCEPT the neck, which is 1/4? Can you share why that allowance is smaller, please?

[@SewAnastasia]

Why they are smaller? This is the norm in the fashion industry. It's a bit diff than the home sewing patterns of commercial companies.

[@margaretmorales836]

@@SewAnastasia I think that the smaller seam allowance at the neck makes it easier to navigate the deep curves of the neckline when attaching collars or bias binding; and it also helps me to complete the neckline without having to deal with too much bulk. I find that the smaller seam allowance also eliminates the need to trim all the excess fabric after sewing.

[@SewAndTellwithDori]

Fascinating video!!! Thank you so much for taking the time to produce this very educational, very interesting video. At some point I hope to be able to make a sloper pattern. Thanks so much, Anastasia!

[@SewAnastasia]

Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you for watching.

[@sharmilaharrichand4805]

Ms Anastasia thanks you for share your sewing technique with us i really appreciate it,also I have a question for a larger sloper do I just need to up the measurement on all the area of drafting or only certain area thanks.

[@SewAnastasia]

You should take the measurements of the person you want to make this for. Refer to my measuring video kzbin.info/www/bejne/nqnSind4qdCnn7c

[@cassandramoe17]

Thank you so much! I’ve been waiting to have one of these although I cannot figure it how to get proper measurements. I used half mine and half yours when I couldn’t figure out mine since I can get 2” off easily measuring multiple times 😂. I’ve been trying to measure for over a year and I still cannot get accurate measurements. I understand your video though! I made one with no seam allowance as a base.

[@SewAnastasia]

Excellent to hear. Happy sewing!

[@genawalter401]

What a great video! This pattern drafting stuff is all new to me. It's a little intimidating, I must say. However, I think I could do it if I rewatched your video so thank you so much!

[@SewAnastasia]

Glad it was helpful! You can totally do it! It does take practice but it gets easier!

[@phyllisgordon6577]

Thank you again. I struggled with the back side shaping but you helped me out of that hole. I am excited to try the mock up.

[@SewAnastasia]

Woohoo happy tailoring

[@caseygibbs9193]

Hi, my bust is 38 F and my bust arc is 13" this means that my M measurement is lower than my O. Can I still make my arm hole I have re-measured and all are correct. Many thanks.

[@SewAnastasia]

In this case I would ignore the M measurement and make the arm hole smooth with your french curve and sew up a muslin and do your adjusting from there. For your M measurement - Measure from mid armhole to center front keeping the measuring tape parallel to the ground then transfer this measurement in the same spot to the pattern. Hope this helps. We can always do a virtual lesson too. sewanastasia.com

[@glitzyeyezz5252]

Thanks for the video. I have an upper bust which is 5” smaller than my full bust. Will this method of drafting work for me?

[@SewAnastasia]

Yes! You will be putting in all your personal measurements. It’s very important that the measurements are accurate. Watch my video on measuring. I put it out last week. Let me know if you have any questions. Also it’s normal to need to do 2-3 fittings to get it perfect.

[@nemo118]

Thank you so much the way clothes are stitched here in Pakistan is so different I can't wait to try this I'm going to use the exact same measurements just to learn how to do it as Its going to be my first time and it'll be so amazing learning a new way to stitch. can you please teach us how to put the pattern on the cloth and cut it did you fold the cloth and then cut it?

[@SewAnastasia]

Hi! thank you for watching and I do have more videos on the other steps for using the pattern once you make them. Take a look at my other videos.❤️

[@nemo118]

@@SewAnastasia I will thank you for your reply :)

[@bernadettethomas4725]

Hello, love this tutorial, can this slipper/bodice whe used for knits or just woven. Thank you so much

[@ReisigSeeds]

Where do you get the “squared down” measurements of 4 and 11 inches? Are those just arbitrary numbers?

[@SewAnastasia]

Great question! Yes they are.

[@thelmalou1320]

I spent this weekend making this sloper pattern. Geometry isn’t my forte so I have my fingers crossed it will fit well. I just wanted to tell you how much I appreciate such an incredible tutorial that you are freely sharing with everyone. You give us confidence that we can do anything we set our minds to. I love your attitude and enthusiasm. I am outgoing myself, so I can relate. I love your videos and all the upcycles as well. I am learning from you and your teaching makes me want to take sewing seriously again. I will be joining your monthly pattern club. It’s more detailed sewing lessons from you and a way to say thank you for all you do. Happy sewing 😊

[@irenefidan3149]

Hello! Thanks for this video, really helpful especially after watching the measuring one :) Question: is it normal that my N like doesn't align with the P-R line as yours does? Mine is way above that curve but aligned with P. Also my dart feet weren't the same length, and then I checked the Helen Joseph Armstrong "Fashion Design" book and there it says to make the dart left foot the same length as the right, passing through Q, and naming it R. Doing that allowed the dart feet to match but added an even bigger slope to the hemline on the left side of the dart 😅 Would you happen to know why that is? Thank you! 🌻💛

[@SewAnastasia]

I cant really advice you unless I see your pattern and take your measurements but I would say to sew up a muslin and then adjust the pattern during the fit process.

[@irenefidan3149]

@@SewAnastasia thank you! 😊

[@aimeec6049]

Hi☺️ I’m having trouble finding where you got the measurement for F at in the video for how to take your measurements. It sounds like you’re saying dart placement, but that wasn’t one listed in that other video. Thank you so much for making these! They’re SO helpful💕

[@SewAnastasia]

Check out some of the responses on the other comments. I explain it there. Happy drafting!

[@lawrencejlittle]

Thanks for this wonderful video! However I am having trouble finding the video you created showing a detailed process of sewing up the mockup. My wife is my model so I’m trying to get this right

[@sourbobadrink]

What if my arm hole curve can’t touch all 3 (O, M and G) like that? I feel like my bust arc is so wide that the only way to get the squared O line, M line and G points are to extend my O line by 4 inches which gives me a whole flap to my seam! >_

[@vaveraste1]

The only downside - usin inches instead of cm... other than that great video with perfect explenation and result

[@caroln3564]

This seems like very good content. Have you, however, considered presenting the very same content a little differently e.g. 1) having your point references chart with you and pointing to it at each marker, 2) re-explaining what each point measurement is e.g. A to B is waistline to shoulder on centre front, 3) explaining how and why each measurement is computed e.g. a) point A to E is half of bust apex measurement and will therefore be a straight line to point F which is the bust point - as darts should be at 180° to fullest part of bust, b) point G and H are the waist dart legs measurements, which are derived from subtracting point C (bust measurement) from point D (bust apex measurement) - the bust cup size, c) point J is dart apex which is derived from measurement M (distance from bust apex to, say, under bust) or from an angle of this to that?

[@SewAnastasia]

Excellent. Maybe we can collab . Would love to see your vids.

[@caroln3564]

@@SewAnastasia hahaha Anastasia, I don't have a single video ... I'm very new to sewing and pattern drafting and have been struggling to make sense of it all. I like your thinking and was hoping you could expand on it. On top of what I listed earlier, I'm struggling with making sense of some things like: 1) how to draft a basic DRESS block with explanations on measurements and how to calculate/compute them 2) how to draft basic DRESS sloper darts if front darts need to be bigger for bodice and smaller for skirt, then back darts need to be the opposite? 3) How to draft the centre front of the skirt on a full basic DRESS block? 4) how to determine dart length - or exact point darts should end 5) how to determine dart size (I've sort of figured out how to compute dart size, ONLY if the darts are to be on front bodice - my assumption being difference between front and back bust apex line divided by two for waist darts - and back shoulder to waist against front shoulder over bust apex to waist for side dart) 6) how to determine/compute dart angle for bust darts ... I'm assuming there should be a formula based on bust shape and size 7) thinking behind sleeve basic block 8) truing seams - drafting accurately so there's less chance of errors

[@amyjohoppins1087]

Errmah Gerrd! My brain can't read this. -fried- if I can't pay attention to my all time favorite thing it must be time for a nap!

[@caroln3564]

@@amyjohoppins1087 too bad ... because me no speak english as first speech so me can't re-phrase ... so yes nap time for me also for real.

[@shoeshinequeen]

What is the brand or name of the ‘hot pink’ L Square you are using? Is the item available in the US? Where can the measuring tool be purchased? Thanks

[@aaricia]

Finished the video and I cannot wait to try out everything. Thank you so much for taking the time to name the measurements and for going over each step. I finally feel like I can actually draft this sloper pattern 🎉🎉🎉.

[@SewAnastasia]

You can do it!!!

[@claudettemartin3362]

Hi Sew Anastasia I'm trying to draft the basic bodice but I have to stop because I'm not sure what you did at the F line and I can't read what you write there, please tell me so I can continue drafting, can I use any other ruler if I don't have the one you are using and also how did you get the measurement for the F line?

[@SewAnastasia]

You can use any ruler you like. You can book time with me at sewanastasia.com

[@sarahgreaves8229]

B to F is the Dart Placement measurement in step 20 🙂

[@NoThanks28]

Are you going to make a pants sloper video?

[@SewAnastasia]

Totally!

[@profkatemari]

I'm confused at point q. I watched the measurement video; took all the measurements, wrote everything down, and was able to follow this video until around 12'26". Dart measurement (princess line in first video?) + 1/4 in (ok) - dart placement (what does that mean? Is that a measurement? Which of the 20 measurements taken in the other video is that?). I can't figure it out. It's frustrating. 😢

[@jilllazdane8861]

From my notes, it is #20.

[@SewAnastasia]

Yes this step is a bit confusing. So. Take your waist arc measurement plus 1/4 inch, minus your dart placement measurement and that is Q. Your dart placement is the last measurement you took. Waist at c.f to where your dart goes. directly down from the center of your bust. Usually around 2.5/3.

[@aaricia]

Thank you for this comment, I was also stuck at that point 😊😊😊

[@kl5508]

Would anything change if I was drafting a men’s bodice?

[@lawrencejlittle]

@@kl5508this video is focused on a bodice for WOMEN…men don’t have princess lines right? I hope not…anyway search KZbin and you will find great videos on bodice for men

[@sylviashortman4350]

Where do put grain line pse

[@SewAnastasia]

@@sylviashortman4350 parallel to cf & cb

[@NySy-sh2qg]

Idk if you’ll actually respond to this but I’m still confused on where you get the dart measurement from

[@3jdni]

Does this work for plus sized folx who may be bustier than expected? Just before I dive in and try it out 😅

[@SewAnastasia]

It will. With everyone, you will need to make some adjustments after your muslin. It is all about taking the correct measurements. I would have someone help you measure.

[@ruthirwin8222]

I love all ur videos... i have a husqvarna viking sewing machine and it is fabulous a total workhorse

[@SewAnastasia]

Thank you. I agree that Viking has wonderful sewing machines!

[@RambleEnglish1231]

My G to B line is not lining up right :( it passes my C line

[@SewAnastasia]

Oh No. Maybe re measure.

[@jlrobwil]

You have a great channel.

[@SewAnastasia]

@@jlrobwil Thank you 😊

[@Create-hn4mb]

Thank you for sharing your talent. What kind of paper is your sloper?

[@SewAnastasia]

I use butcher paper

[@arleneporeider]

Absolutely love your tutorial videos! I am trying to draft a bodice for my 1.5 year old do you have a video on making a bodice for babies or toddlers? I have all his measurements but when doing measurements like " Going up 11 inches from E" or "Down 3 inches from C" the bodice is thrown off because his overall bodice is of course much smaller. I appreciate your help! :)

[@SewAnastasia]

Hi, I do not have one for kids but you should be able to get a rough draft and do a fitting with this. Maybe take a top she has and lay it on the pattern for the neck.

[@cats_arecutie]

i am 16 and trying to learn fashion designing im really bad at math lmao but i try my best even tho i didnt understand much this video was still informative and i think u explain very well u sound so sweet

[@SewAnastasia]

Thank you for watching. ❤️❤️❤️❤️

[@cats_arecutie]

can i ask if i can still be good at fashion design even tho im bad at maths and geometry hehe@@SewAnastasia

[@mandelish]

Yes, don't worry about it, even though some people will tell you otherwise the main operation you will do is adding subtracting division and anybody can do that... @@cats_arecutie

[@jaybee4118]

@@cats_arecutie with a calculator and being patient with yourself, yes, it’s definitely possible

[@cats_arecutie]

@@jaybee4118 yes and I took a fashion design course and I learned alot it's pretty easy imo

[@valleriejoy]

Great step by step tutorial. By the way, where do I find the pink L-square. I love it.

[@SewAnastasia]

Thank you 😊 we made the L square! I’m going to start selling my ruler collection soon! 🎀 Thank you for watching .

[@valleriejoy]

@@SewAnastasia That’s awesome. I cant wait to place my order when they’re available.

[@juliegonzales649]

@@SewAnastasia Hi Anastasia, I also love your pink L Square!! Do you have an idea of when you are going to start selling them? I would love to place my order.

[@asmith6006]

I am a bit confused about the waist dart. My waist is larger than my bust, so judging by this I don't need a waist dart. Is that correct or have I done something wrong with my measurements? I had surgery and because of the weird shape of my abdomen now, it's always going to stick out more.

[@SewAnastasia]

This is hard to answer with out seeing you but it could be possible that you do not need one.

[@smainsadji3796]

Hi Anastasia! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us. Would it be possible to do the same tutorial but this time using centimetres instead of inches, please?

[@SewAnastasia]

Great suggestion but I honestly probably will not get around to that. You can convert them through. 🎀 Thank you for watching.

[@r-anthro]

You can find tape measures with inches on one side and cm on the other!

[@songbird857]

I tried to draft a sloper for my daughter, who is Petite and generally very small, but has very broad back/shoulder area. This caused an issue drafting the arm hole area! Any thoughts on this would be appreciated ☺️

[@SewAnastasia]

Can you send me pics & I can better suggest what to do

[@songbird857]

@@SewAnastasia Oh yes! I’ve been wanting to fix it but just couldn’t wrap my brain around it! Creating patterns for my family (or myself) still intimidates me 😂 I’ll pull it out today (that is… if I can locate it in the current state of my sewing room 🤪)

[@Madhaddersewing]

Hi! I love your videos! What do I do if my dart placement measurement extends past the F mark by about an inch and a half?? I am stuck!

[@SewAnastasia]

I’m confused. It goes past F to the left of it…. Maybe this is happening cause u have a small chest? I’m not sure unless I see your work.

[@Deuteronomy-uw8ls]

Thank you so much. I've been trying to figure this out with How to Design Your Own Clothes and Make Your Own Patterns by Claudia Ein but I really needed to watch it happen.

[@SewAnastasia]

👏

[@aaricia]

15:21 OMG after watching countless measuring and slope videos and getting super confused, I’m finally able to follow along with the instructions 😅😅😅. Let’s hope I can keep up for the back 😂😂😂. Thank you very much for making this and the measurements videos!!!!

[@SewAnastasia]

You can do it!!!!

[@kairndodge6203]

Thank you! I’ve been making patterns my own way and I’ve stayed away from anything that needed darts , but you made it easy to learn. I’m making a dirndl for a family friend. It’s a very important piece of her heritage and I want to make sure she feels beautiful when she wears it to events. With your help I’ve just made a custom bodice pattern that fits her perfectly.

[@SewAnastasia]

That is wonderful to hear it fits her perfectly. :) Great job!

[@dild2384]

Your word are not clear 😢

[@SewAnastasia]

Then turn on CC

[@rebekahpope4875]

If i were to make a sloper with no ease added and put it on my dress form and fill in any loose parts, would that be a way to make an actual "me sized" dress form?

[@SewAnastasia]

You could totally do that!

[@gaylemgosselin3202]

what pattern making book did you use when drafting your bodice? I would have to take my timeto dothis and I would not know what measurements tom put where, thank you

[@SewAnastasia]

helen joseph armstrong

[@frankenfurterr3432]

ehhh i think i messed up with the arm hole 😢 i took three inches off my shoulder slope from 25 to 22 cause it would have gone higher than the neck line, so i think it messed up the depth of the arm hole

[@SewAnastasia]

Ahhh the fun of pattern drafting. Double check your measurements a few times to make sure you get the same numbers. Then try again. I know it can be frustrating but you’ll get it.

[@brendashenda4249]

shoulder dart doesn't need an underlay? why do we take away 1/8 "?

[@MonkeyDoBoutique]

This video was great! I have been trying to understand how this is done and you are clear! I will attempt this weekend. Thank you!

[@SewAnastasia]

Happy drafting

[@walhfm]

PLEASE LIST WHERE YOU PURCHASED YOUR RULERS!! Thank you

[@SewAnastasia]

I just made an amazon store that has the rulers. www.amazon.com/shop/sewanastasia

[@ReisigSeeds]

I keep having questions as I watch this. OK, so you have the 3 inch “standard shoulder dart” in the back. Is this the same measurement for men as well?

[@SewAnastasia]

Ask all the questions. If you have them someone else probably does too. The mens is not drafted with a dart. You can also draft the women’s with no dart.

[@jm-sh6qr]

did you use pinking shears to cut your bangs?

[@jessicaguerrero2267]

had a question . does the adding of measurements still work with Half-scale mannequins?

[@SewAnastasia]

Do it in half & then yes.

[@dinri90]

Great tutorial, I have two questions. First, if I want the bodice longer than waist length, how do I make the adjustment from the waist? Second, I saw in another video that you took a hip measurement for the bodice so how is it transferred onto the bodice block if I want to make the bodice longer? Looking forward to your response.

[@Aupri605]

Hi Anastasia! So I’ve tried making 2 patterns and so far the only problem that’s reoccurring is that the lines which points Q & F are on don’t line up. Is this a problem with my measurements or is there something else that’s wrong?

[@SewAnastasia]

Have you tried to measure yourself again to check your measurements?

[@franciscajankowski7257]

@@SewAnastasia thank you so much for the very informative and clear instructions. I am having the same issue with bottom darts and it is difficult to align. I have taken my measurements multiple times..... like 8 times but still have the same results. I am not sure if it is because I am 34DD and have a longer torso... not sure but it has been very frustrating not being able to line up the waist line. Thank you so much for putting this tutorial.

[@rachaelmacgregor7655]

​@@SewAnastasiaI'm also having an issue with this despite measuring many times. I'm not sure where I'm going wrong but when I fold the front dart together to use the pinwheel, my mark for F is significantly lower (about 1.5cm) than R so I can't draw a line through them. Do you know which measurement could be wrong for this to happen?

[@renabradshaw1597]

I am having the same problem, I measured myself over and over and redid the sloper 4 times. My F dart is also way lower and doesn't line up@@rachaelmacgregor7655

[@kiaora7214]

I appreciate the work youve done to help me change up my sewing. I love this ❤❤❤

[@SewAnastasia]

I'm so glad! Thank you for watching.

[@lefthandead3453]

Hey Anastasia, I drafted the front but my dart is way lower than yours and smaller. I also have a larger bust is this why? my side length (O) is also a lot higher than my across chest point (M)

[@SewAnastasia]

Yeah it should be fine. Sew it up out if muslin & do a fitting.

[@renabradshaw1597]

you have to draw darts K-F, measure that dart, then draw dart K-Q to equal the same as dart K-F.

[@lfuentes4098]

Do you have a tutorial on a Mens slopes?

[@SewAnastasia]

I do not. I need to make one.