How to Dry Green Wood: 99.5% success RATE. Avoid Cracks. A Comprehensive woodturners guide

[@erniesmith1097]

Cricky young fella bloody good info, bloody love it MATE. I will see you up the mountain this July, that if I can remember this year. Keep the dream alive son. Aussie Aussie Aussie GDAY MATE from brisbane Australia.

[@KerryCorney]

Thank you so much Ernie. I will be there for sure! Cannot wait. Cheers mate. Kez

[@briandoyle4737]

Top info. I'm in Ireland and follow a very similar drying regime but I use pva polybond instead of glue, with a much colder damper climate the process takes a lot longer. I finish the drying process by bringing the blanks into a drying box, which is an insulated plywood box, 4 inch vent at one end, computer fan at the other and a small greenhouse heater. I weigh the blank and note the weight and when i get two weights the same after a couple of weeks we're good to go. Super to see you back turning again, always enjoy your straight to the point approach

[@KerryCorney]

Thanks so much, Brian. You have your method dialled in 👍 ‘If the wheel ain’t broken, don’t fix it.’ I appreciate your support mate. Cheers, mate.

[@loungelizard3922]

Yours was the 5th video I've watched on preventing drying wood from cracking and it gave me by far the most information. I'm just trying to hand carve a few bits and pieces like wall fittings for drapes and wooden spoons, and I didn't realise how important removing the pith was. My pieces were cracking within a few days after spending hours on them. I will try again starting with a larger log, avoiding the pith, and gluing the end grain. Your video was much appreciated.

[@KerryCorney]

Thank you so much, mate. I'm really glad that I could help. Let me know if there is anything else I can cover in a video. I am no expert and don't claim to be. Cheers, mate. Kezza

[@johnnyb95678]

Thank you for the excellent video on drying and prepping wood for the lathe.

[@KerryCorney]

Thank you Johnny. I appreciate it mate🤝 Cheers, Kez

[@jamesknight2198]

+i live in Adelaide and work much olivewood (i do walking sticks spatulas, spoons, cups, bowls, honey dippers, and am learning all the time. ) like you, I have found that my wood dries faster than americans quote. i doubt that the wood dries the same as Brisbane, but in Adelaide, it is in the same ballpark. . That said, my biggest problem with olive is cracking. i have found that cold weather felling is better than summer felling. but never put my observations together until you said it. ) autumn and spring are the best seasons for felling olive trees, the trees are less wet, the weather is kinder to me and the wood. Winter is no good, after rain, there is water on the leaves (so you get wet in cold weather), the clay paddocks are slippery, and my tyres have lost grip on a clay hillside before. . in any case, i paint the end grain with olive oil after i load the vehicle (sooner if the wood is stressed) re-paint the wood when i arrive home (usually 1 hour), then paint the end grain after the oil has penetrated (a day or two). it acts as a barrier to the paint if one tries too soon. i am seeking to replace olive sap with olive oil. it seems to work. When i whittle repair a damaged spatula, the oil oozes out of the cut cells. People have suggested that olive oil will go rancid, but i have never found the oil to go rancid once it is in the wood. on the bench in an open container, yes. cracking is much reduced with end grain sealer, i used to lose a third of bowl blanks to cracking (it is okay, i work a woody weed which grows thickly round here). Of my last 5 once turned bowls, 3 have cracked: Of my bowl blanks', 3 out of over 40 have cracked, so olive seems to like drying as a solid. direct sun is a killer, so i cover the wood. . During summer heat (35 to 40 Celsius) I move precious wood pieces into the house (the coldest area , usually 25 to 30). snow is not on the menu in Adelaide Finally, thank you for your videos, it is good to see a local (in a global sense) presenting your world and your experiences

[@bespokewoodartistry1517]

Another great video mate! Your demo and explanation of pith avoidance during chain sawing was very clear and concise. I can see your fingers are healing nicely too, and your staying off the lathe just as the doc ordered. Wouldn’t wish you any harm by a too early return. Besides these videos are very helpful for all of us no matter our experience level. Well done, speak soon! Johnno

[@KerryCorney]

Thanks so much Johnno. I will be back with some turning videos soon👌 Cheers mate. Kez

[@nathanaeverson]

Great video with some solid info. I rarely get to turn green timber, but I'm working on making friends with a local arborist and also harvesting myself, so fingers crossed I can get a good source of timber to be working with.

[@KerryCorney]

For sure mate. Make friends with all Of them, 🤙 just be a little picky when they ask you what timber you want. Otherwise, they will give you everything and anything👌 best of luck mate. Cheers, Kez

[@rodmiller8617]

Thanks for asking Kerry. One of them is a natural. Excellent eye for form and shape and making good cuts already. One is a little impatient and stops short of what I would call finished. Told them we get away with it for a little while but the day will come soon that fit and finish goes up a level. The third is making great cuts to the left. She forgets when she makes cut to right to adjust the tool handle to the left. Once that kicks in and moves her body to shape the cut she will have it. All three are highly motivated to get good and very proud of them. I started out watching videos and trying it by myself. They are making better cuts at 3 weeks than I did for sure. Actually having mentor helped me immensely and I hope it is helping them as well. High school classes are going well also. Have a great one big guy. Keep up the good work

[@KerryCorney]

I have no doubt you being there will accelerate their growth. It sounds like you really enjoy watching them grow. Very cool. The next generation that will carry on our beloved craft. Cheers, Kez

[@kenkaufman4736]

Great to see you. It's nice to have you back. I live in southern Ontario Canada and it takes me at least a year to dry a blank. My last 3 large turnings all warped after I finished them. I was able to remount 2 of them and save them. Thanks again for the video.

[@KerryCorney]

For sure, you guys get a true winter. Have you tried using a microwave or other methods Ken? Thank you for the feedback mate. Its really nice to be back. Cheers. Kezza

[@balahmay]

Even though I should know all this,I like hearing you talk about it. There is always some bit of informational benefit. I have a moisture meter but I don’t trust it much. I always wonder how deep into the wood it is actually measuring. I like to measure the weight in grams right after rough cutting and the sealer is set up. Then I watch that going forward and it is easy to calculate the percentage weight reduction. Just a hobbyist here so I can be less efficient. But I like watching the efficiencies that production turners figure out.

[@KerryCorney]

Thanks for watching, mate. I used two for that same reason as well, because I don’t trust the ones I have. I need to save up some coin and buy a really reliable moisture meter. Il slowly getting back into it. My hand is slowing me down a bit. Plus editing these videos takes a lot Of my time. I need to find an editor. Thanks again mate. Cheers, Kez

[@bobbyshelton8781]

It's good to see you are getting better. Stay healthy.

[@KerryCorney]

Cheers Bobby. Appreciate it mate.

[@alirezasaghafi8022]

Thank you Kerry for all the tips

[@KerryCorney]

@@alirezasaghafi8022 my pleasure, mate. Hope it helps🤝

[@cattleNhay]

I got a dirt Celler under a hill,in Switzerland..never gets above 13 degrees and very moist. Had good success with rough turned bowls not cracking…

[@KerryCorney]

That’s really cool. How long does it take for them to dry in there?

[@cattleNhay]

@@KerryCorneyNever dries completely in there because of such high moisture from soil floor…after a few months I can take the ones I want to finish into workshop and within a month they are completely dried.

[@KerryCorney]

That’s really cool. Would it be worth it putting a dehumidifier in there? Thanks for sharing this. We don’t have cellars/basements under our houses here in Australia.

[@cattleNhay]

@@KerryCorney nah, it’s perfect with high moisture for rough turned bowls..kind of like paper bags with the wet chips. For the initial drying it’s great.

[@Chipswoodworking]

Great video, always good to get a bit of a refresher. Ive got some logs outback I need to process and never thought about doing it in the winter time. Once this snow melts and it thaws a bit I may go give them a cut and get some larger blanks going vs what I have right now.

[@KerryCorney]

Thanks for watching, mate🤝 It's not always possible to process in winter, but I always try to. For sure, let me know how you go🤝🤙 Cheers mate. Kezza

[@northernhumidor5615]

Great video , I have been using PVA glue for sealing for quite a few years now and it is very effective and cost effective.

[@KerryCorney]

Definitely the go-to stuff! Cheers mate.

[@earlbishop2314]

Great information Kerry, thanks for sharing your knowledge. Take care and stay safe.

[@KerryCorney]

Thank you for watching Earl. Hope you are well. Cheers, Kez

[@ArchEdge]

Thanks Kezza!! 😊 That was a really helpful video. Ive been working predominantly with dried blanks till now because of past issues using green wood. This has taken alot of the fun out of it, as turning dry blanks is dusty and hard on the tools. Appreciate the advise, and i think ill give it another go. Vic weather isnt as great as qld, but we have much less humidity so it might work well.

[@KerryCorney]

🤝 Cheers, mate. This has been a combination of watching a lot of content from the pros and trial and error over a few years. So, I hope that it can iron out any issues for you. I find that air drying is the cornerstone of these methods. Once you can nail that, I would look at other options like making a kiln out of an old fridge (one with one compartment). Always feel free to reach out to me. I’m over on Instagram as well. Cheers, Kezza

[@krperry2007]

Very helpful, thanks! Direct and to the point!

[@KerryCorney]

Thank you so much. I appreciate it. Cheers, Kez

[@wantlessobject]

Another excellent video bud. Very informative. Thanks for sharing.

[@KerryCorney]

Thank you mate. Been trying to get this one out since the start of the week. Thank you for watching brother🤝

[@tomburns7544]

Super interesting information, Kerry! Thanks for this!

[@KerryCorney]

Thank you for watching Tom. Glad I could help you out. Cheers mate

[@rodmiller8617]

Excellent information. Love the explanations. Thanks so much. Rod

[@KerryCorney]

Cheers Rod. How are those students going? Any big catches?

[@crusadersforchrist4028]

Thank you so much, that was a great video.

[@KerryCorney]

Thank you for leaving a comment showing your support. It means a lot. Is there any topic you would like to see in the future? Kez

[@brettgl21]

Excellent video brother!

[@KerryCorney]

Cheers brother. 🤝 appropriate it👌

[@frankMusumeci-y6z]

hi kerry thanks so much lerned heaps from you vidioes ,well done mate . are you in brisbane ????

[@KerryCorney]

@@frankMusumeci-y6z thank you so much, Frank. Certainly am. I am currently looking for a commercial spot/ shed space. It's hard to come by a good one that isn't a dive. Cheers, Kez

[@crusadersforchrist4028]

Sir, I have it the pith from my lumber and have started to harvest and have a few bowls turned and sealed. I know have a moisture meter as all the wood I turn is green. Is there a percentage that shows pecan is dry and I can finish my final product and turn? Thanks

[@KerryCorney]

You can weigh the blanks and record the weight on them. Then, after a month, reweigh them. Keep doing this until the weight stops dropping. When the weight remains constant, you'll know that the wood has reached the right moisture level. It's a good idea to test the wood every month, or so. The acceptable moisture level can vary depending on where you live. It's best to ask a local timber yard or Woodturners in your area. For example, in some areas, a moisture level of around 10% may be suitable. As mentioned in the video, you can also consult a local Woodturning club for advice. Hope that helps👌🤝 Kez

[@valeriehenschel1590]

Good info. Next you might address off center pith and how to best address that issue.

[@KerryCorney]

For sure. Im always dealing it when I get Camphor. Especially unions where you have three big branches coming off a base. That's tricky stuff. Glad you liked the video. Cheers, Kez

[@valeriehenschel1590]

@@KerryCorney Three in line, I go with the pith plane. Three uneven, I turn a vase or use the pith line of the two largest branches. If really large I cut multiple pith plane blanks.

[@crusadersforchrist4028]

another quick question. I cut out the pith but then all of my bowl stock is cracking, am I supposed to seal the end grain of all the slabs I cut??

[@KerryCorney]

I'm sorry to hear that. In the video, I talk about sealing the end grain. It's a vital step in the process. I also mention placing them in a dry, protected area. All the best, mate. Kezza

[@crusadersforchrist4028]

I have learned a lot from your videos thanks so much.

[@KerryCorney]

Thanks you so much mate. I hope I can continue to help. Kez

[@madiradesign]

awesome as always brotha!

[@KerryCorney]

Thank you so much. Trying my best. 🤝 Cheers

[@alansmith477]

Thanks for the info.

[@KerryCorney]

Cheers, Alan. A lot of information that I tried to condense down. Thank you for watching. Cheers, Kez

[@hydra2019]

Does some of this apply to hand carving bowls?

[@KerryCorney]

The drying techniques would probably be similar. In saying that, I haven't hand-carved before. Kez

[@hydra2019]

@@KerryCorney hmmm i see. . I'm not sure if I should carve green wood then let it dry ( but the shape would warp some ) , or let the block of wood dry b4 carving :/

[@KerryCorney]

You could carve it out and leave it, Chucky. In the video, I leave all my bowls and platters an inch thick (25mm) from the final thickness. I let them dry and turn them again (in your case, carve) to the final shape, which removes any warping and distortion. Some people turn green wood in search of the fun shapes they make when drying. Cheers, Kezza

[@hydra2019]

@@KerryCorney oh yeah true. Hopfully I can dry in a way they won't crack !

[@KerryCorney]

You could also experiment and grab a paper page to fill it with shavings and place the bowl in it. Seal it up and keep an eye on it. Cheers, mate. Kezza

[@KerryCorney]

Thank you for watching. Here are more demo and instructional videos: 4 best ways to mount bowls on the lathe: kzbin.info/www/bejne/np2Vfoiia8SNnLM Wet sanding with Danish oil: kzbin.info/www/bejne/np2Vfoiia8SNnLM How to remove tenons + sign + finish the bottom: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nYDGd6iKjLCMjtU

[@dennismitchell5276]

Well done.

[@KerryCorney]

Thank you. Glad you liked it! 👌

[@seamusday1964]

Kezza, Do you coat the end grain on the inside of the bowl too, or only the outside?

[@KerryCorney]

Only on the outside of bowls on the end grain. Cheers mate

[@seamusday1964]

thanks much @@KerryCorney

[@KerryCorney]

If I was you mate I would experiment and seal one on the end grain only, one whole blank coated, and then one on the end grain and the rim. See what works. But I would say if you coated the whole thing it might take a long time to dry. Keep me posted on your thoughts. Cheers, Kezza

[@crusadersforchrist4028]

what if the diameter of the tree is not bog enough to cut out the center, and the wood is cut in circles like 10"" inches in diameter??/

[@KerryCorney]

Hey there, thanks for reaching out. I usually remove the pith with a chainsaw or bandsaw, or I turn it out on the lathe. Are you asking if the log was cut into cookies? I'm sorry, but I didn't understand your question. The pith has to come out, even in branch wood. Have a great day!

[@crusadersforchrist4028]

@@KerryCorney Yes what if the wood is cut into circle cookies how do I turn that with the pith still in?

[@KerryCorney]

@@crusadersforchrist4028 So that would be end grain turning. You can still slice the pith out on the band saw ( if the log is big enough) and make really lovely end-grain boxes and other things. I always turn into side grain material when I process the timber. Check this video out here. How I process and dry timber: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gXeqhqecpMSnb5Ysi=DpQLLVIAdgoJwZF4 I really hope this helps. Thanks for getting back to me. Kez

[@crusadersforchrist4028]

@@KerryCorney what size and type bowl gouge do you use I am having a hard time turning Pecan wood at 12 inch diameter

[@KerryCorney]

Pecan is a hard to turn for your first go. I would suggest something softer. Have you considered joining a Woodturning club? In this video, I show all the gear I am using. Hopefully, this helps you out kzbin.info/www/bejne/faLan2WNbJyfeNUsi=q8VvGKWBt22yvYcO

[@joedivincenzo2099]

will Titebond wood glue work??

[@KerryCorney]

That would be a pretty expensive way of doing it, mate. Save that for your glue-ups 👌. PVA glue can be bought relatively cheaply in 4 or 5-litre drums. Hope that helps🤝

[@joedivincenzo2099]

@@KerryCorney where, maybe I'm getting old but can't seem to find that cheap alternative

[@KerryCorney]

@@joedivincenzo2099 In Australia, you can buy 4L of PVA glue from big box stores like Bunnings for around $40 AUD. If you’re in the USA, you can check Home Depot or Harbour Freight for similar options. Hope that helps. Kezza

[@joedivincenzo2099]

@@KerryCorney I think I found some on Amazon, have u looked there??

[@KerryCorney]

@@joedivincenzo2099 I get mine from my local hardware store. I’m happy you have found some. 👌

[@djieffe]

what i did for a 1 inch thick slice(end grain) is soaked for one week, then let it air dry. absolutely no crack.

[@KerryCorney]

@@djieffe that's a different way of doing things. 👌

[@bogdanshevchenko]

I don't think its possible to say something in the Australian accent without it being funny.

[@KerryCorney]

Sounds like a challenge hahah Cheers, mate.

[@mickleblade]

Americans go on about Anchorseal, which you can't get outside of the US. Google the data sheet and you'll find its a soluble wax. Google that and I've found its commonly used as concrete sealer, the stuff that stops it cracking from moisture loss. This seems just like the product a contractor used in our house, it left a waxy film on the concrete. Last I looked it was €35/25L container. I haven't tried it yet but if it works it might be good value for a pro woodturner. Have you got and buddies in the trade who could give you some to try out?

[@whitecollarhomestead2498]

i'm an american and I've been nothing but disappointed in my results from using anchorseal

[@KerryCorney]

Thanks so much for the information mate. I might have to try a little on a test run. I really appreciate it👌 Thanks mate.