🚲 How To: Ebike Hub Motor Hall Sensor Testing, Diagnosis, and Fixes (Display Error 10, Error 30)

[@hightech-lowlife]

A viewer pointed out at 01:53 that there could be some confusion regarding my use of the term “magnet” when referring to the ring of magnets around the stator. He thought that not specifying these are electromagnets was incorrect. So, I will clarify: The rotor uses permanent magnets. (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnet) The stator uses electromagnets. (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electromagnet) In this example, the stator uses enameled coils of wire around iron sheets to create an electromagnetic field (electromagnet) that interacts with the rotor’s magnet’s magnetic field (permanent magnet). My apologies for any confusion caused, and thank you for watching.

[@jellolon8435]

Dude thank you so much for this. I resoldered the entire Cable tree to the motor and was about to give up on a 1.5kW motor. Found the faulty Sensor due to this Video, changed in 10 minutes. Back on the Road now thanks to this concise tutorial! :))

[@hightech-lowlife]

That's awesome man, I'm glad it helped you out! 🍻

[@BrianHom-d6j]

One of the best and simplest presentations I’ve seen. U should be a teacher

[@hightech-lowlife]

Thanks man!

[@E-bikeguy]

One of my subscribers was having the same problem with his 2000w kit, he has power but when he apply throttle he hear a click and nothing happens, I'm going to tell him to watch this video, very informative. 👊💯

[@hightech-lowlife]

Thanks so much man! I hope it can help some people out, sometimes it's hard to follow tutorials on forums so I figured I'd make a video. Thanks for the recommendation brother 🍻

[@E-bikeguy]

@@hightech-lowlife anytime especially when it relevant to what we go through from time to time with these ebikes 🙂

[@hightech-lowlife]

@@E-bikeguy 100% man, you put out a lot of good videos on how to upgrade and fix things, people appreciate it for sure.

[@E-bikeguy]

@@hightech-lowlife lol bet!! I just sent my subscriber the link, FYI I told my wife that a big youtuber comment on my video lol I was star struck 😅

[@chaitanyaabbott4883]

@@E-bikeguy hey, so did your guy withe 2000W motor manage to by pass...? im having the same issue.

[@mborowski2010]

This video would have been pure gold for me 5 years ago. I learned everything to the point now I'm building my own controller and modified my bafang controllers to run with more power with out the speed limited. Great video though! This will help many noobs who want to DIY fix their ebikes.

[@hightech-lowlife]

Thanks so much! I'm hoping it can help some people just getting into DIY ebikes as a lot of issues can come from the hall sensors. Thanks for watching, much appreciated!

[@baje_246]

Are you in NYC?

[@4nlimited3dition_4n3d]

If you like tinkering and getting the absolute max performance and customization, I would definitely recommend check out VESC controllers. Especially the originals from Trampa.

[@danieljob7787]

This is an awesome video, you've done a great professional job on this.

[@hightech-lowlife]

Thanks man, much appreciated 🍻

[@Justme-lq3wv]

subbed after the first video I watched on how to test hall sensors, I've been searching for a few days trying to get this information about how to test the wires, I've changed the wording and tried several variations and got no where, I'm basically not getting any Error codes or anything like that but when I rotate the wheel to get a up to 3mph so the wheel will then activate but it isn't registering any speed at all and I know 100% that all other components work perfectly as I have another wheel and when I put that one on it all works perfectly 👍

[@hightech-lowlife]

Thanks man, you should check the multimeter readings and see if they are correct, if they are then the motor should work. 👍

[@pedrowants2bdd]

This is extremely helpful. Thanks very much for making this video and for the references you have provided. More power to you!

[@hightech-lowlife]

Thanks for watching 🍻

[@Themonster81iq]

Oh man. thank you so much for this informative tutorial, I have a question and need your help please, I had tested all wires like you did all have signal of 5 volt without turning the wheel except the yellow one doesn't show any signal with or without turning the wheel what is that means ? am I on the same tracking or I missed something? Thanks in advance

[@hightech-lowlife]

Thanks man! They all should show 0-5 oscillating, I would first check continuity on your yellow wire and if that checks out, then look at the sensor itself. You can even swap sensors to see if one is faulty or not. 👍

[@Themonster81iq]

Thanks again man. I have my speedometer is reading 0 all times maybe this is related to one of the sensors@@hightech-lowlife

[@hightech-lowlife]

Yes it is very possible. @@Themonster81iq

[@DCX1]

Would love to see the hub motor tester board video! Great work!

[@hightech-lowlife]

Thanks man, I just got it in the mail so I'll make a video on it 👍

[@oussamasmida4796]

Thank you for the video 👍 ... but for the same position of the wheel i have two hall sensors giving 5 V ... and my motor is stuck

[@hightech-lowlife]

Check for shorts on your phase wires, it should operate as shown in my video, if it's not then you just have to figure out why (shorts, faulty component, etc). Usually if two phase wires are touching it will make the motor very difficult to turn as the motor is generate magnetic force in the opposite direction. A stuck motor can also be mechanically stuck (bearings, etc).

[@oussamasmida4796]

I checked all the wire and the phases ... everything seems to be fine but the motor won t turn ... i made a video if u can check plz m.kzbin.info/www/bejne/oWbMfKapp6uBnpY&pp=ygUgdHJvdHRpbmV0dGUgw6lsZWN0cmlxdWUgZW4gcGFubmU%3D Thank u

[@PaulWood-p5g]

Great video I appreciate cutting straight to chase. I did all these tests and the hall sensors coming out fine going into the motor (ie im getting 5v on and off with each phase output from the controller). The throttle is working fine going from .8-4.6V. The motor is still not energizing! No error codes.no idea where to go from here.

[@hightech-lowlife]

Thanks man! Could be a controller issue and not related to the motor if everything is checking out. Also could be battery. If you have a spare or borrowed component to swap in this will expedite your troubleshooting. 👍

[@3r1414]

Hey I just finished swapping out my hall sensor i had to bypass the PCB but the reading keeps coming out at like 0.7v. Im struggling to find a forum or video to help me out here.

[@hightech-lowlife]

Should have 3 sensors, one per each phase. Are you saying only one phase was not working? Most likely you bypassed something that was essential and it may not have been the hall sensor that was faulty if the results are the same as before swapping it. You can test a hall sensor component by itself for faults with this information: www.hallsensorchip.com/news/how-to-testing-hall-effect-sensor/

[@3r1414]

@hightech-lowlife before I changed it, I was getting a constant 5v. I have a replacement pcb coming in the mail. Im just trying to understand why I'm getting such weird reading.

[@hightech-lowlife]

@@3r1414 Usually constant readings will be due to a short that is bypassing the hall sensor.

[@Ivan-tp8gs]

Great video! I just tested the hall sensor cables and all three of them are stuck at 5v. The motor doesn't move or work at all. What would it be?

[@hightech-lowlife]

Thanks man! Well, if you know the function of the hall sensors then it will help you to look at where the problem could be. The hall sensors sense the position of the wheel through the oscillation of the magnetic field as the motor turns. If all of the sensors are not seeing any oscillation to me this would indicate a more likely scenario that all of the halls are not faulty at once, although possible, it is improbable. More likely is a short circuit that is bypassing these sensors and just sending the 5V directly through.

[@Ivan-tp8gs]

@@hightech-lowlife Indeed. The cable was broken inside. Thank you!

[@hightech-lowlife]

@@Ivan-tp8gs 👍Good job finding the fault

[@dust6242]

Great video! Do you think it would be possible to run two hub motors on one controller? Thank you..

[@hightech-lowlife]

Thanks man, I'm pretty sure it's possible (as shown in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rYPcipxniLaga9U) but for real world usage all I've ever seen is dual controllers and I'm sure there is a reason for it 👍

[@ebike_guy]

thanks this video is what helped me to fix my 60volt 3000watt qs hub motor that would only spin to the center and then stop

[@hightech-lowlife]

Thanks man, I'm glad it could help you out 👍

[@evewilliams5017]

Thank you so much for this video..I'm having an issue with error code 2 ..I've tested the little red wire while grounded to the little black wire and I'm getting 4.7V. When I'm testing the blue ..green..yellow hall wires I'm only getting fluctuating 0 to 5 volt voltage like you described at the 6 minute mark while rotating the wheel backwards not forwards...when rotating forward I get no voltage..any ideas??

[@hightech-lowlife]

Thanks man. I believe you should see 0-5V oscillations forwards and backwards, but if you're seeing them at all then it should indicate that it's working as expected. It may not be your motor if all these tests are checking out.

[@DesertRider928]

If my motor has two hull sensors and one is bad, do both sensors need to be connected with the ground. Or can I unlink both hall sensors with the common ground wire.

[@hightech-lowlife]

The halls will need ground to function 👍 If one is not working then having ground connected to it or not is irrelevant.

[@coryb4483]

I'm having a hall sensor error on an NB Power 2000w rear hub motor. I did the first part of the test where I made sure the hall sensor was getting power and it is. I jacked the bike up and turned the wheel and all three wires are moving between 0-5 on the meter. I did do one thing by mistake when I first started. I unhooked the connector to the hall sensor and used the meter to test the three wires coming from the controller. Two of the three show about 2.9 (blue and green) and the yellow shows 0. Not sure if this means anything. At this point do I need to open the motor and test continuity and so forth as shown in the video if all three wires rotate like they should? Thanks

[@hightech-lowlife]

Another thing you can try is touch your phase wires from your motor together, when you touch two of them it should make the wheel much harder to turn, try different combinations but any two together should cause it to be harder to turn by hand. endless-sphere.com/sphere/threads/how-to-test-motor-phase-wires.37271/

[@coryb4483]

What would that mean if it's harder to turn? Also I mentioned that I unplugged the hall sensor plug and tested the three wires coming from the controller to the hall sensor plug and the yellow wire tested zero while the blue and green tested around 2.9. Could that mean anything?@@hightech-lowlife

[@hightech-lowlife]

Your reply went to youtubes flagged section for comments which I don't check often. @@coryb4483 It would mean that the phase wires are good because there is opposing resistance from the magnets. When turning the wheel you should see 0-5v oscillations as it turns for each signal wire, if you're only seeing 0v on yellow to me that would indicate an issue with the hall sensors.

[@gi169]

Very concise troubleshooting tutorial HT\\LL. Thank you. Im sure this will help a lot of e-vehicle riders. Take care man...

[@hightech-lowlife]

Thanks Gil! Much appreciated, I hope you take care as well brother.

[@hazeysma5089]

I have a 1500w rear motor and its pretty new but recently i went out on it and it started making a humming noise and when im on it, it makes a loud noise any advice i have no clue what to do and i am very close to just buying a new one

[@hightech-lowlife]

Usually these noises/vibrations are mechanical and not electronic (although sometimes they can be). I would open the motor and check to see if anything is loose or binding.

[@donl1411]

I have an Aventon ebike and the display is showing E30 but it rides fine, pedal assist ok, throttle ok. The only issue I see wrong is the speedometer is not showing speed. The display is new, thinking the white speed sensor motor output from hub motor is bad ? Does that output also use a hall sensor as the 3 phase sensors utilize in the hub motor ? Thanks

[@hightech-lowlife]

I would recheck connections, find out what is being output from the motor on the white wire and see if you can measure it, this will let you know if it's that wire, the motor, or the display.

[@donl1411]

@@hightech-lowlife Thanks for the quick reply, is the speed sensor (white wire) the same pulsed output as the other hall effect sensors?

[@hightech-lowlife]

@@donl1411 Not sure, but probably not. Most hub motors I have seen do not have a dedicated speed sensor wire, as I believe the controller will calculate speed via the hall sensors. I think you might mean the white wire that is coming from the controller, not the hub motor? If the motor is working fine, then it's either the controller, the display, or the connection between them. If nothing has changed and it was working before, and you have checked and rechecked the connections (unpugging, then replugging the connections) *VERY IMPORTANT TO TRY FIRST* and it's still not showing correctly then my next thoughts would be a hardware fault in one of the components tied to the speed display (either display, controller, or connection/connectors between them). I don't have any personal experience with aventon bikes or products but from my quick search for your problem it appears their support is very good. It's going to be a lot better than a random person on youtube 😎my suggestion would be to reach out to them for help as they are going to know way more about how to troubleshoot and fix this specific problem. Plus if you do need a replacement, they're going to be the ones that can help you with that the best. Depending on how old your bike is you may still be under warranty also, so inquire about that as well. electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/aventon-level-e30-code.49323/ rideaventon.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/requests/new Good luck man 🍻

[@donl1411]

@@hightech-lowlife Thanks will contact them.

[@hightech-lowlife]

@@donl1411 👍🍻

[@tonybalony9432]

Took all screws off that were holding cover. Cover starts to remove, but then stops. Any suggestoons?

[@hightech-lowlife]

Check for any obstructions that would prevent it from coming fully off. How much is it moving before it stops? Once the screws are out the only thing holding it on is friction, it's possible you just need to pull/pry harder.

[@JaybeezyOG_tv]

So I have a head scratcher for you. Hub motor runs perfectly fine off the ground but stutters on the ground any thoughts?

[@hightech-lowlife]

Did you run through the tests outlined in the video?

[@bradphillips6081]

Hey thank you excellent communication skills that's talent I get to go take everything apart again again

[@hightech-lowlife]

Thanks man, I hope you find the issue 👍

[@Full_Throttle_no_Brakes]

Very useful information. Thank you! My question is. How to determine the order of the hall sensors if the hub motor came with random hall sensor colors? I got a DIY Bionx motor converted to external controller online and the person who did the conversion did not follow the standard of color coding the hall sensors and power etc... Opening the motor is not an option because I would have to dismantle the wheel, remove the spokes... This motor opens just from the middle like a book.

[@CD31337]

Trial and error

[@hightech-lowlife]

Thanks so much Diogo, oh - check out the link in the description (first one) it will have a chart you can use to determine the correct sequence 👍 or you can do just trial an error, note that it's not just the phase wires that need the right sequence, it's both the phase and hall wires, so it can take a while to find the right combo.

[@hightech-lowlife]

That totally works, but on the first link in the description there is a chart that shows all the combinations so you can more easily find it 👍

[@Full_Throttle_no_Brakes]

@@hightech-lowlifeI know that chart mate but I thought would have a more efficient way to do it. Thank you so much anyway, I appreciate it. FIY this cheap hub motors can get up to 5kw if you fill them up with oil for extra cooling, beef up the phase wires and seal them properly to avoid leaking. Could it be an idea for a video?! It's up to you to decide but I hope you like the idea. Cheers!

[@hightech-lowlife]

@@Full_Throttle_no_Brakes Oh yeah, I think it still takes time to figure out the combo, there may be a better way to do it or a faster way but I haven't come across one yet. I'll have to check it out, thanks for the suggestion on the video! I know you can do shunt mods and squeeze more power out of smaller motors too with extra cooling. I'll definitely think about it 👍

[@ogtech5522]

Are hall sensors the reason for my motor to jerk when pushed backwards ? also its not working at all.

[@hightech-lowlife]

It could be, use the video to check your hall sensors. For any diagnostic, start with the easiest things to check first, then progress to the harder and more time consuming tasks.

[@plojm123]

Excellent video any idea on this one I have a motor issue wondering if anyone could help me. On my hall sensor wires I get 5v black to red. But while rotating the wheel I only get like 3.3v on and off from black to color hall wire on all yellow green and blue. But they are turning on and off Any idea what that could be. Motor works but my display ukc1 say hall sensor error 30H etc. I tried a different display and get error 10 with is also hall sensor error

[@hightech-lowlife]

If you swap a different controller do you get the same error showing? If halls are showing consistency then most likely they are good, could be another issue or component.

[@plojm123]

@hightech-lowlife I did, I motor works but errors on the display i swear I think they just have 3.3v halls in there vs 5v ones if that is a thing? I heard some of the really old qs motors has 3.3v halls. But I don't know.

[@Asfanboy1]

I have a motor like this and its making noise at low rpm. Performance haven't changed it just makes noise from a dead stop. Any advice is it normal?

[@hightech-lowlife]

What kind of noise? Could be bearings.

[@Asfanboy1]

@@hightech-lowlife it's a new bike so I doubt it. It only does it when I'm on the bike it makes 0 noise when I'm off it and ita fine even when I pedale it without using the motor. It feels like a vibration and like the wheel is going under me. Idk I can't really explain it. And ita 🌧️ 🌧️ like mad so I can't make a video/audio. It's been doing this for 700km.

[@hightech-lowlife]

@@Asfanboy1 You may be able to see an issue if you take it apart, but to me sounds mechanical. Maybe something is loose or wearing strangely.

[@LJC5865]

Just bought 60v 2000w powerpack battery and nbpower 2000w rear hub kit..worked late nite in the morning hooked up again for test ride and display works no motor spin w throttle damn. Voltmeter tests evthing ok and this hall tests good. Got to check new throttle tho got to make the 3 battery rig to test it next. Great vid thanks liked n subd. Took it to 3 big bike shops none work on them so becoming a bike mechanic learn electric darn rather ride. Probably should of wired an on off battery switch and fuse 1st but learn as i go waiting for that to arrive.

[@hightech-lowlife]

Recheck all connections (even disconnect and reconnect to make sure). If all test with a multimeter then could be an issue at a component level. If you just bought it get NBpower involved as you may need to return/warranty one of the parts, see what they say or if they have troubleshooting steps for you specifically 👍I'm sure you've thought of it already, but I know from some of my bikes if you set the power level on the display to "0" then nothing will happen when you turn the throttle, must be set to 1 or above that. It's sad that a lot of bike shops will not touch ebikes, I heard somewhere that it is a liability/insurance thing, but still they aren't that complicated. Hope you get your issues sorted very quickly, thanks man!

[@LJC5865]

Got an update thank you for the suggestions..how I finally got it to work again. I found a YT vid showing how to with my sw900 display. On the video at setting 16 is his reset just press the up key. Mine has 19 settings and nothing 16-18 but on #19 it reset and turned off. Turning back on it works again. So when I first hooked everything up and it worked I also played with the settings before calling it a day. I learned how lite comes on and set to mileage hate the word kilometers and those odd az numbers and messed with others but what I did wrong idk maybe one of those the video mentioned leave on factory. Got 0.3 miles on her now. Wish I'd written down what was on the settings before I started messing with it. So nothing will ever go wrong again it's fixed. Na just hope I get 40 miles in at least.

[@hightech-lowlife]

@@LJC5865 Awesome man, glad you got it figured out. I think it's always good to mess around with the settings, but always make sure you remember what you change, and just change one thing at a time so that if something does happen, you can go undo what was done 👍

[@Ch33secakeGaming]

Hey I did the continuity test, even replaced my hall sensors but the motor still seems to be twitching. Any suggestions?

[@hightech-lowlife]

It's unlikely, but still possible that the new hall sensors are not working properly, did you test them for proper operation by using the method I showed in the video by hooking up a DMM and rotating the wheel/magnets? Disconnect the main phase wires (3 larger colored wires) and then connect any combination of two to each other and try to turn the wheel while holding them together, it should be very hard to turn due to the resistance. Try it with different pairings of the colors, if you're getting resistance with every combination then your phase wires are good. It's also possible it's not the motor that is the issue. If you have or can borrow another (known working) controller to sanity check, I would try that to rule it out. Could also be possible it's the throttle/PAS. I would narrow down the cause of the issue to the motor first 👍

[@LJones-n7f]

What if my blue smaller wire came out of plug? My bike was working but jutters when taking off when to ride today and now I have this issue, where do u get the connectors wirh the circle hole at end?

[@LJones-n7f]

My small blue wire wasn’t connected into plug but my motar was still working just jutter when taking off, so I know that isn’t the cause

[@hightech-lowlife]

Usually a blue wire will be a speed limiter (but not always) typically disconnecting this will put your controller in "off road mode" which will not limit the current. There are a few circular ebike connectors so you'll have to be more specific. Typically the round connectors are called "Julet" connectors, they are smaller and waterproof.

[@LJones-n7f]

@@hightech-lowlife it’s the same pins as yours but I’m having trouble finding them onnline

[@LJones-n7f]

Because my red smaller wire has a cut but it’s not cut through completely do u know where to order the sliver pins

[@hightech-lowlife]

@@LJones-n7f www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800397484386.html

[@liamdtraxxas2011]

Hi can u help please, with the scooter turned off the wheel is hard to turn its notchie, if I unplug it the wheel free spins I've tried another wheel it's the same thing, it don't move when it's turned on and the walk mode don't work aswel,

[@hightech-lowlife]

Have you checked the hall sensors like I have shown in the video? Thanks

[@liamdtraxxas2011]

I sent the message then see the rest of the video. My bad sorry bro,

[@hightech-lowlife]

@@liamdtraxxas2011 It's possible it's not the motor at all, but I outlined a lot of things to test and try to get you closer to finding the problem. If all the tests check out good, then it could be an issue with the controller or throttle.

[@videocrackent.3486]

So I did all the above tests and everything seems good . So if im geting 0-5 junps while spining the wheel the sensors are ok ? 😢 I'm out of ideas

[@hightech-lowlife]

What is the problem?

[@videocrackent.3486]

​@hightech-lowlife my hub makes grinding noise ,seems it spins very had when power is engaged. I suspected the sensor but I did troubleshooting from this video and its getting 0-5 v jumps on the multimeter when I spin the wheel . I checked cables for continuity. Would a fault in controller have similar symptoms? I was going through some heavy terrain mud and stuff and when I went to move of from stop just started making this noise with bearly any power, only going up to around 200-300w on the screen I made it home engine was hot , top speed was around 20kn/ph (1000w hub). I opend the hub up no sign on any damage or debri

[@videocrackent.3486]

​@@hightech-lowlifeI have the bike upside down now , when i apply throttle it will only spin if I give it a little push

[@hightech-lowlife]

@@videocrackent.3486 Grinding usually indicates an issue with something mechanical (binding, tightness, etc) as opposed to something electronic. Check the bearings on the axle, see if there is any debris or metal shavings/chips that could be causing the wheel to be harder to rotate. Sometimes magnets can get slightly misaligned causing them to catch on the rotor as it turns. Things like that.

[@videocrackent.3486]

@hightech-lowlife I mean , if there is no power applied, the wheel turns freely that's why I thought I could be the sensor. Thanks for your reply tho

[@Yes-sw8gh]

Appreciate your video dude! really! Any chance you know where you got that bag from? Does a Polly fit in there?

[@hightech-lowlife]

Thanks man! You mean the battery bag? Ask this seller for just the bag: www.ebay.com/str/hhailongbatterystore

[@dedelete]

Hi my guy. My voltage for each phase only varies when i rotate the wheel backwards. If i roll it forward voltage stays put. My bike runs but from 20kmph to 25kmph it vibrates very loud (under load. If i make it run in the air theres no vibration or noise. I had to switch the cable to the motor because it got cut. I solder every phase and sensor. What can i try?? Thank you

[@hightech-lowlife]

If it was working fine before you switched the cable, my guess would be that the cable was not installed correctly. Maybe there is a solder bridge or something else that is not correct. Usually vibrations or noise are mechanical (bearing, bent rim, etc).

[@mohammadnoori5403]

Hallo. What is the function of the sensor inside the motor

[@hightech-lowlife]

A Hall sensor in a brushless DC (BLDC) motor detects the rotor's position and sends that information to the motor controller. The motor controller then uses this information to determine when to pass current to the stator coils, which controls the motor's speed.

[@simonrompre]

Well done, very clear explanations, thank you!

[@hightech-lowlife]

Thanks for watching! 🍻

[@magnetars6477]

I had to replace motor wires cos of damage , when I changed the wires I also change out hall sensor wires , wires are now different colors and doesn't match the one controller have. I screw all back and forgot in what sequence sensors were, but no matter how I changed them it seems that doesn't matter. even when I plug off the hall sensor cable wheel still turns as usual, can I leave it like that or should I open my wheel again and redo all the work ?? p.s sensors read 0.8v max for some reason

[@hightech-lowlife]

If things are working, then I would leave it. The wire colors do not have to match as long as the pulse sequence is right for smooth operation. 👍

[@magnetars6477]

@@hightech-lowlife I disconnect the sensor wire from controller and it still works just fine. Im thinking maybe I should just get rid of sensors and wire in thicker power cables, what is the downside of that idea and does motor suffer from it, thanks.

[@hightech-lowlife]

Some controllers are dual-mode: endless-sphere.com/sphere/threads/can-i-run-my-controller-without-the-hall-sensor-plugged-in.118999/ The sensor wires allow for a smoother operation, but if you can't tell the difference and it works fine for you, then yes you can run it that way without issues 👍 Most phase wires are more than adequate for way more than their rated power, it won't hurt to make them larger, but probably not necessary unless you're upping the power considerably.

[@Khodor.7]

Does this work if ur motor does not move at all or make any sound when u give it throttle

[@hightech-lowlife]

It can be the issue, but that symptom could be caused by a number of things. Best to troubleshoot from the easiest to the hardest things to check, going down the line ruling out each potential until you find the source 👍

[@Khodor.7]

@ alr thanks I tried a different motor but its still the same issue so it’s most likely the controller

[@hightech-lowlife]

@@Khodor.7 Most likely it is a controller issue, however it could be throttle, display, or battery related as well.

[@Khodor.7]

@@hightech-lowlife the display shows error 8 do u know what that could mean

[@hightech-lowlife]

@@Khodor.7 Depends on what display it is, and what that number corresponds to.

[@phillloydjones5139]

I'm stuck with a problem with my voilamart 1500w could you help me dude ? It will spin when under no load (bike upside down) when I put the bike upright it just jerks forward a little bit and knocks I'm super stuck

[@phillloydjones5139]

I cannot find anyone who has had the same issue lol

[@hightech-lowlife]

Do the easy stuff first: check all wiring. Look for any chaffing or splits in the insulation, check all connections to be secure and free from corrosion. After that I would do these hall sensor tests and see if that seems to check out. I would start with these first. 👍

[@Jesse_underwoo]

I just got a brand new qs165 and it’s throwing a motor hall error just checked the hall wires and they all stay at 9 v and don’t move other than white and that’s at 3v idk what’s going on plz help

[@hightech-lowlife]

Most QS motors have dual hall sensors, try the other connector. If it's brand new send it back for a replacement. No use wasting time trying to fix something that is supported, leave that for them to figure out 👍

[@Jesse_underwoo]

@@hightech-lowlife dual hall sensors? I don’t understand, as in two separate clips? Mine only has one 6pin hall and the 3 phase wires

[@hightech-lowlife]

@@Jesse_underwoo Yes most QS motors I've seen have dual halls for redundancy. I looked up your model and it is a mid-drive, and they may not do that for their mid-drive motors. You'll also want to make sure you purchased the hall sensor version and not the encoder version (depending on what controller you have) there are two versions of this motor and if you picked up the wrong one it won't work for the controller you're trying to use it with. If you bought this new, then I would reach out to the seller you bought it from (or QS motor themselves) and let them know the issue, I'm sure they will be able to sort you out way better than I could 👍

[@Jesse_underwoo]

@@hightech-lowlife got it thank you for your time gonna see what the company says hopefully tomorrow

[@hightech-lowlife]

@@Jesse_underwoo No worries man, I'm all for helping and DIYing as much as possible, but when you buy something new it should work as expected, and if it doesn't then it's on someone else to deal with (that's what you pay extra for, as opposed to buying something used with no warranty) 👍I hope the new one they send you works 100%. What bike/moto frame are you installing this on? What battery did you buy/make? Thanks!

[@Tefelucky]

Thanks alot for you excellent explanation....and practical lecture.

[@hightech-lowlife]

Thanks man 🍻

[@jasonsitz3056]

Well done I don't know if it's gonna fix my problem.Cause I don't think I have a resistor I can probably find one and then these circuit boards around here ..

[@hightech-lowlife]

Thanks man!

[@bobetization]

the green light in our trottle is dead only yellow & red is working but yesterday when we go to park still working then suddenly stop, now the motor wont rotate , we dont know what to do now

[@hightech-lowlife]

I would recommend doing the checks I outlined in the video 👍

[@Kallingalwahab-bw8zi]

how To run without hall sensor to test run by hub motor and different controller bro?

[@hightech-lowlife]

You'll need a hall sensor to do these tests 👍

[@keyboardpatriot]

My motor was vibrating, I took it apart and greased it, the vibration practically went but then I went on flat grass and it came back, any idea what it is please and how to fix it?

[@hightech-lowlife]

Vibrations are usually mechanical gaps in parts that should be fitting tightly, check your axle and bearings for movement/play.

[@En3rgyLee]

This is a great video. I needed this like several months ago for testing sake lol I had to figure out how to these things the hard way. I own that same motor tester and I came across that motor hall sensor color combination pdf (it is very helpful)! But this guide is in-depth and it should help a lot of beginners for troubleshooting. Good job 👍🏽

[@hightech-lowlife]

Thanks so much Lee! Hey, your comment on my cafe racer video got lost somehow, I think it's because you put a link it showed up in spam, I approved but now it's like lost in the ether so my apologies for not responding to it but I literally can't find it anymore! Thanks so much for watching, oh yeah I linked all the forum posts I found useful with even more info 🍻👍

[@En3rgyLee]

@@hightech-lowlife no worries man. It’s all good. Darn those KZbin bots, however, I was just sharing with another smaller KZbin channel who is doing an electric cafe build and thought you would be interested. His channel is called Shea Nyquist. Nonetheless, keep up the good work. I wonder if you could whenever you could do a similar break down for pedal assist. My bike works good and all and it zooms but I the PAS on it is not triggering when I pedal but it’s not too much of a buzz kill as I ride it more like a motorcycle anyway. However it would be nice to pedal again. Any tips? Or how to test with a multimeter?

[@hightech-lowlife]

@@En3rgyLee I try to respond to everyone as I know it's time they spent writing to me so it's only fair, plus you guys are cool! Oh yeah I'm actually subbed to that guy and he makes some really cool builds! Dang, I honestly have never put PAS on any of my builds, it just never appealed to me as I like full control over the power with the throttle. From what you're saying it sounds like it's just not connected, like nothing is happening right? If it was working before, most issues usually are that the magnets are too far from the sensor to read it, they need to be like almost touching, but not, I would mess around there first 👍I will experiment with PAS on some future builds just to familiarize myself, but honestly I don't need it. Maybe I just ride weird but I'll usually just pedal randomly whenever I feel like it. Thanks man!

[@easybeart]

My scooter motor doesn't run forward, but the controller sees the motor speed when I turn it by hand , putting the scooter in "lock" mode makes the motor very hard to turn both forward and backward, and rotating the motor backwards and hitting the throttle causes it to stop. What could be wrong?

[@hightech-lowlife]

Did you test the hall sensor and phase wires as shown in the video?

[@andosoup98]

you the man! i got a 5000watt motor i pretty sure bad sensor, anyone know if its likely to be the same process for 5000watt motor or am i more likely to need a puller tool...

[@hightech-lowlife]

Should be same steps for larger motors as "most" hub motors are constructed the same.

[@andosoup98]

​@@hightech-lowlife its funny I have had them for about 7 years and had seen a vid saying you needed special tool and it was tricky...so I avoided taking the cover off for years, just took it off today, super easy. the only problem I have is mine has two sets of 5 wires, the red yellow black greeen and blue...yellow is my dead sensor. but the side I have taken of has 3 sensors going to the other group of wires which i think is for a differnt type of controller. so i think my hall sensor is on the other sire but i need to take the cog thiungy off before I can take that cover off and I dont have the tool, will get tomorrow. Brand new $500 motor blew hall sensor first time as didnt install torque arm correctly, had moved to a higher torque wheel :( but I think im close to repair now, i have an old motor of same spec with good sensors so i can take one of those and swap it out

[@hightech-lowlife]

Most larger motors have two sets of hall sensors (one is for backup), before doing anything else I would plug the other hall sensor in and see if everything works 👍@@andosoup98

[@andosoup98]

@@hightech-lowlife ah i was wondering if that was the case so had held off doing any more until the manufacturer responds to question. what i did do was use multimeter on black wire, then i can see 3v on the working hall sensors as i move the wheel around...but on the other unused wires I don't see any 3V. so now the theory could be they also need their own 5v supply but the color codes arent obvious hence waiting to hear back from manufacturer for advise...but thanks so much for the quick responses you have really help a lot, i was so excited about the new motor then so disappointed when i broke it so quickly, lol. manufacturer had sent incorrect torque arm so wasnt all my fault, hehe. living in New Zealand very limited with anywhere to take it to be fixed and i cant send it back to china so im on my own, lol. at least I have over come my fear of openeing them, this fear was so great with a 1500w motor after blowing a sensor i ordered a new controller that doesnt need hall sensors, but its a bit rough and only go up to 45amp so not a solution for my 5000w wheel

[@hightech-lowlife]

Yes it will be a duplicate, so if you're not feeding it 5V, nothing can go through the circuit meaning nothing can be read back as there is nothing happening 👍@@andosoup98

[@herminioamuniz]

Perfect. Thanks for taking the time

[@hightech-lowlife]

Thanks for watching!

[@valdarmort]

my hub motor doesnt have a white speed sensor wire .can jump a hall sensor wire to the white one so my lcd speedometer will show speed .

[@hightech-lowlife]

Most likely no, but you can try it. If you don't have a speed sensor wire then your controller or display is calculating speed differently than with a more standard single wire communication.

[@valdarmort]

@@hightech-lowlife the controller has a white wire motor does not so i guess that means the chinese dont want you to know your speed

[@hightech-lowlife]

@@valdarmort Was this a kit that came with both motor and controller? Or are you piecing things together?

[@valdarmort]

@@hightech-lowlife piecing things together .some say the white wire is used only for temp cut off

[@hightech-lowlife]

@@valdarmort That can be harder for display compatibility, even similar displays that "should" or appear like they will work may not work due to different firmware, even if wire color codes match up. If I want a display to work as intended I always buy a kit with the controller and display together to avoid issues.

[@pro-zr2468]

You can put cells in the motor? If you can, show à video how to put please

[@hightech-lowlife]

Cells? Like a battery cell? I wouldn't recommend it.

[@lezbriddon]

01:53 I hate to point out the obvious snafu but there IS NOT a ring of magnets attached to the stator, ie the bits wound with copper wire, they are simply soft iron cores, made from thin sheet laminations not solid cores. the coils are powered (energised) to create a magnetic field from the coil and the iron cores direct/focus the magnetism towards the permanent magnets in the wheel hub. You maybe intended to say 'a ring of electro magnets' which would be correct, but the incorrect term of magnets could confuse/mislead someone new

[@hightech-lowlife]

Thanks for pointing that out. I will pin a comment with further explanation. I will stand by that both are technically magnets as that is an umbrella term with many subtypes of magnets falling under that term, so I don't believe it is technically an incorrect term, but maybe not as descriptive as it could have or should have been. But, yes in this example the stator uses enameled coils of wire around iron sheets to create an electromagnetic field to interact with the permanent magnet's magnetic field on the rotor. I'm certain that are even different subtypes of electro and permanent magnets for different applications (e.g. resistant, superconductors and hybrids) which under your logic not specifying would also lead to being an incorrect term. I feel within the context of what the video is trying to convey it is rudimentary enough to diagnose and fix issues as laid out in the video. Although of course it is possible that I am wrong as I am not an engineer, but I am sure there are many other videos on this platform that go into much more detail about exactly how a hub motor or Brushless DC (BLDC) motors works (and I encourage my viewers to watch them if they are so inclined). Thank you.

[@OrlyAlbatera]

How to buy diagnoses for hall sensor.

[@hightech-lowlife]

What do you mean?

[@AbderrahmaneFafouri]

Your videos are professional 👍 keep going

[@hightech-lowlife]

Thanks so much man, I have a lot more on the way. Thank you for the encouragement, much appreciated🍻

[@salviaaable]

good information ! i guess i have to to this someday :D but my bikes are running still great like on the first day

[@hightech-lowlife]

Thanks so much man, out of years of hub motors, this was the first time I ever had an issue 👍🍻

[@levkarpets3329]

Great video explains good very helpful

[@hightech-lowlife]

Thanks man!

[@bunnygetspancake6916]

what if I'm only getting 0.4v from the controller? I don't even have the motor hooked up. It's just 0.4v from the red and black wires from the controller. Pls help :/

[@hightech-lowlife]

This would indicate you have an issue with your controller if it's supposed to be outputting 5V and you're only seeing 0.4V.

[@robbrenton9438]

Did you find a solution to your controller only outputting .4 v instead of 5v ? I have same problem !

[@Cuttablebeast1]

Probably need to replace controller ​@@robbrenton9438

[@yourboyvic]

Bump

[@billybob6574]

Brilliant, thank you for this.

[@hightech-lowlife]

Thank you 🍻

[@chrishogg2850]

Can anyone tell me what error 02 indicates?

[@hightech-lowlife]

www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/sw-900-lcd-controller-02.31661/

[@kibou5832]

On blue i get 4.8-4.9v On green i get 4.5v And on yellow i get 3.5v Should i replace Yellow and Green or is it totaly fine to get only 4.5v on one Sensor?

[@kibou5832]

I measured again and now i got on green 3v and on Yellow 1v i am Sure now that both are broken.

[@hightech-lowlife]

@@kibou5832 Yes, I think 4.5 is ok, but 3 and 1 are not 👍

[@markgaylor5815]

Thank you very informative .

[@hightech-lowlife]

Thanks man!

[@didzeens12]

One hall sensor shows 2,45 v all time. If i turn nothing changes. Changed hall sensor twice. Couldnt be that both of them show the same

[@hightech-lowlife]

If you replaced the hall sensor and that didn't fix the issue, then that symptom may not be caused by the hall sensor, check your wiring leading to the hall, check the PCB, etc.

[@SketchbookGuitar]

But what if while you hold your throttle and then reverse the bike it works? but still showing motor error display.

[@hightech-lowlife]

Can you let me know what you mean by "hold your throttle and then reverse the bike"?

[@SketchbookGuitar]

@@hightech-lowlife im having a motor issue but the odd thing is when i throttle it wont work unless the motor itself spins the otherway first(you push the bike backwards/reverse) while holding throttle. It'll either work like normal or sometimes stutter but still shows motor error on thr display

[@hightech-lowlife]

@@SketchbookGuitar Ok, did you go through the checks and tests I outlined in the video? What were the results?

[@SketchbookGuitar]

@@hightech-lowlife So I have 4 hall sensors (ADOA20XE not sure if the one on top is a hall sensor or something else) I found out that out that one of them pulses but at only 2.60v ( I was doing the test while you asked the results)

[@hightech-lowlife]

@@SketchbookGuitar If one is reading different than the others, that could be an issue.

[@brianwayne7999]

Was just wondering how is kitty cat?I have one myself whom I love very much

[@hightech-lowlife]

Hey thanks! Unfortunately my cat passed away a while ago. He was about 17 and lived a great life.

[@Jim-ep7vd]

Hub is bumpinging when turned is a brake dragging

[@hightech-lowlife]

Not sure, would need a lot more information on the problem to help you out.

[@tbounds4812]

after going through all these steps and finding nothing wrong im assuming the connector in the controller is broken

[@hightech-lowlife]

If the connector in the controller is faulty then I don't think it would be possible for the rest of the tests to succeed, although I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "connector in the controller"?

[@tbounds4812]

@@hightech-lowlife hmm good point and what i meant was theres a connector in the controller that leads to the hall sensors

[@tbounds4812]

@@hightech-lowlife but yeah jeez i think ur right that the tests wouldn't succeed if the controller wasn't connected properly to the halls sensors

[@hightech-lowlife]

@@tbounds4812 This is true 👍What issue are you having?

[@tbounds4812]

@@hightech-lowlife error 19 on a ninebot g30 max scooter its related to incorrect hall sensor values from the motor

[@SpACeCruizeR2o3]

i need a light up glowing carbon fiber top plate with circuit board look for the top of my 212cc

[@hightech-lowlife]

Cool man, it's totally doable!

[@SpACeCruizeR2o3]

@@hightech-lowlife lol ill figure it out hey man Thanks for the reply it shows u really are a Human lifeform and not a Robot

[@hightech-lowlife]

@@SpACeCruizeR2o3 Awesome man, yeah I'm definitely human, maybe a cyborg in the future though 🤖

[@kibou5832]

Thank you so much for this Video!!!!!!

[@hightech-lowlife]

Thanks for watching man!

[@mustafabarham4338]

13.MOSFET High Side Error what is that nanjing fardriver

[@hightech-lowlife]

You need to work on your googling: endless-sphere.com/sphere/threads/fardriver-fault-14-mosfet-lowside-error-help.120262/ That's for lowside error, but I'm assuming highside is very similar. Mosfet problem internally within the controller.

[@CallOfDutyMenace]

I built a mini e-bike, (not a kit) It was working fine, it was running perfect, I went to those shop, Left it outside and wen I came back out, It was dead, The trigger throttle is working, Showing full charge on the battery but just zero movement from the motor. No noise, nothing, I’ve tried everything, I’m lost, s0 close to buying a new motor, I’m going to open the motor in the morning

[@hightech-lowlife]

Yes, if everything else is looking like it's working fine, then time to open it up and look inside. I hope this video can help you identify the issue and that it's a cheap fix. 👍

[@babumanikuttan2258]

Your video is so good

[@hightech-lowlife]

Thanks so much 🍻

[@normanwray1341]

Hello friend yes sir I wish you could help me to now how to understand me brushless convertor moto 😅

[@hightech-lowlife]

Thanks man

[@Kallingalwahab-bw8zi]

Nice, very useful video bro,

[@hightech-lowlife]

Thanks man!

[@babumanikuttan2258]

Your poster is super

[@hightech-lowlife]

Thanks man!

[@TyouV]

thank you. excellent.

[@hightech-lowlife]

🍻

[@quinngreen450]

Great video

[@hightech-lowlife]

Thank you!

[@robbrenton9438]

Awesome video

[@hightech-lowlife]

Thanks man! 🍻

[@SpACeCruizeR2o3]

Love the......M a s k @#$@% asf bro no questions 1Oo% im gonna make a headlight outta one for my m i n i bike

[@hightech-lowlife]

Thanks man!! You totally should that is a cool idea

[@SpACeCruizeR2o3]

@@hightech-lowlife lol crazy shit bro Lets Goooo i Love thiS worrrrrrrld.... Robotic voice from that mOvie with mathew broderic ....war games lol

[@hightech-lowlife]

@@SpACeCruizeR2o3 Yeah love that movie, 80's movies are the best 👍🍻

[@thelavalattergamer6242]

Thank you a lot

[@hightech-lowlife]

Thanks so much man!

[@sidharthaswain3521]

you are GOAT

[@hightech-lowlife]

🐐Thanks man

[@CallOfDutyMenace]

Thanks bro

[@hightech-lowlife]

🤘👽🚀

[@tonupharry]

My head hurts cos of the relentless monotone delivery slow down

[@hightech-lowlife]

I'll have you do the voiceover next time 👍

[@abdullahnaveed-4624]

Hi

[@hightech-lowlife]

Hey

[@brianwayne7999]

Just to get away from the tech for a moment.check out George Carlin on the environment. Hopefully it will make you laugh

[@hightech-lowlife]

Oh yeah Carlin is the best man, thanks!

[@dmajor77]

This area is a poor design by Bafang. Bike shops will not help you.

[@hightech-lowlife]

Some bike shops will work on electric bikes, but most will not. 👍