How to embroider on slippery fabrics like Satin | Needles Embroidery | Not a tutorial, just tips

[@jaeyunzers]

Thank you so much for this I recently starting working at an embroidery shop and this was so helpful 😊

[@WhitneyMarieHicks1]

Yeah! I am so glad that you found it helpful! Congratulations on your new shop. Such an exciting time 🎉

[@damianstrudley2265]

Thank you... was very informative..

[@WhitneyMarieHicks1]

Thank you. Proper stabilizer definitely helps, and I try not to skimp of that, if possible.

[@roseruiz4717]

I also have a graduation stole to stitch. I've been practicing but the sticky back is awful on the back. I am using a PE770. Is it better to stitch double or take the stole apart? Thanks for the video....

[@WhitneyMarieHicks1]

Hey, Yup, stoles are just difficult. I have taken them apart and I’ve stitched through both fabrics. Taking it apart and then sewing it back together seemed to really help the process. Unfortunately, there are always going to be little pulls. Thanks for the comment! Good luck Rose!

[@rosalynmorales4262]

Do not use a 90 needle for satin, on the contrary you want to use a sharp needle 10 or 11

[@WhitneyMarieHicks1]

Those numbers just refer to the size of the needle. So, yes, 90/10 is the correct needle size :-)

[@celyelliej]

Hello. What digitizing software do you use?

[@WhitneyMarieHicks1]

Hey, I use PE Design Next. They now have an 11 or even higher out, but I haven’t ever made the upgrade....the current NEXT program is works great and I am happy with the results. Some, designs take a little more work, but generally it’s pretty quick.

[@TheBestUni]

❤

[@missyray8580]

I hand embroider and am looking for the right stabilizer for sateen.. I would appreciate it if you could tell me if you have a video of that subject? Thank you. Also is there a (I think you called it a fast clip? ) for hand embroidery. I do have the square that grips fabric for cutting but I'm afraid it might pick it.. I've never worked with this type of fabric

[@WhitneyMarieHicks1]

Hi Missy! Thanks for leaving a comment. I have seen where people use a stick back water soluble stabilizer on top of their fabric whenever they hand embroider. Unfortunately, I don’t hand embroider (just machine embroidery for me 😂) I am not certain would would be good. As fast as the “fast frames”, I would assume the ideal thing to use would be an actual embroidery hoop, you could potentially use the stick back stabilizer to hold everything in place along with a tear away . Good luck! Oh, your needle is going to be everything in this! Use a ball point so you don’t cut your threads as you stitch.

[@damianlopez7630]

Satin Is Perfect As it is Smooth.

[@angelshyam]

I wish you had shown the embroidery on this satin fabric which was important. Directly you showed the finished product.

[@WhitneyMarieHicks1]

Thank you for the suggestion. Yes, I felt like I should have, too. I can’t remember why I didn’t add it in there. It’s very possible that my child knocked over my camera or I even forgot to film it 🤣

[@angelshyam]

@@WhitneyMarieHicks1 Thank you for responding.

[@LVXMagick]

Great video. Thanks! I make altar clothes on satin and it's a b*tch to say the least!

[@candicehodge5346]

Thank you for sharing

[@damianlopez7630]

I Love Satin Fabric So Much because it is Slippery and Shiny...I Would Never Dare to embroider Such a Beautiful Fabric Such as Satin. I Love Satin Fabrics As Pure and Unadulterated as possible. Except That I Iron the Satin So it is Extra Slippery and extra Shiny and Extra Lovely.

[@ArkcessorizeYurself]

What is the best font

[@WhitneyMarieHicks1]

I prefer a thinner font rather than a bulky, dense embroidery font on satin fabrics. But, it really boils down to "what does the customer want?" If they are wanting a font that they can read from a distance, then you may opt for a thicker font. However, I find that the thicker they are the more stitches they will have and the chances of pulling your delicate satin fabric is higher. Good luck. Satin fabric can be tricky, but don't be afraid of it!

[@ArkcessorizeYurself]

@WhitneyMarieHicks1 thanks. That was the definitely the case. I opted for a medium sized font, not perfect but it worked

[@chickiez11]

No WS topper needed??

[@WhitneyMarieHicks1]

Thank you for your message. Yes, you most certainly can use WSS on top. I chose not to because I don’t like the sticky residue that it leaves behind, and then it gets stiff once dried. So, for this project I opted out. But, I typically do use WSS to float my stitches 🙂

[@rodrod5238]

Tear away better than cut away?

[@WhitneyMarieHicks1]

It really depends on what you’re embroidering. General rule is “if you wear it don’t tear it “…so you’d use cut away. Blankets, towels, hats you can use tear away. I like heavy weight cut away stabilizer, but everyone has a preference. Oh , I would only use a lightweight cut away on a sports polo or thin tops. The trick is to get the stabilizer to fade in to the background and not be visible from the embroidered side

[@rodrod5238]

@@WhitneyMarieHicks1 I have noticed that some wash clothes before embroidering because some shrink after washing and machine drying. it is important that the cut away withstands machine drying and does not shrink

[@WhitneyMarieHicks1]

There are a bunch of embroiderers that do prewash their garments as well as their stabilizers. I myself don’t prewash. I try to find things that have already been preshrunk or the sizing has not been added to the shirt. I think it’s preference. There is some shrinkage to certain brands of stabilizer, with there being so many out there you may have to run a few trails yourself and see which method works best. I found with larger Appliques (which was the main thing I did) it didn’t matter so much if I prewashed or not, but for names and logos it did.