How To Expose Polaroid

[@zakerylewis]

I originally like the video while you were still talking and taking photos. Then I tried to like it a second time when seeing the result lol. Great demo, philosophy, and presentation.

[@gabvideo]

Great instructive video. One must get to know how one’s Polaroid camera exposes and also with all film photography, the characteristics of the film being used. Also very recent news that the i2 exposure algorithms were set up with film with a lower iso then 640 thus incorrectly exposing in auto mode.

[@ronmorey3475]

I've been following your tests of film stocks and processing techniques for years and you're still my favorite! Thank you for all of your work Stephen!

[@FIGITALREVOLUTION]

Thank you!

[@ezpoppy55]

Agreed. Back in the day, shooting roll film (35mm and 120), that was just the norm. Set up and expose in a variety of settings. Get to know A FILM (for me it was Tri-X EI 100 with reduced development by 20%, and Ilfford XP-2) and then “trust the force.” Faster, better, less $, less frustration. Not there quite yet with the I-2, but I am focusing 🤭on learning just the B&W. Big trip to Japan and the I-2 will be my only camera. Thanks. I find these videos insightful and useful. 👍🏼

[@cesarhidalgo2123]

Do you still rely on exposure compensation when using an external light meter? I couldn't tell if you underexposed by 2/3 when you took the picture metered with the Sekonic. Please let me know! Thank you for the incredible content!

[@FIGITALREVOLUTION]

No- with an external just use the exposure as indicated.

[@bianx817]

How would you expose scenes when an incident light meter can’t be used, like landscapes? Would the spotmeter work for such a situation? I find them to be much more helpful for film photography but I don’t know how accurate they’d be for Polaroid film.

[@FIGITALREVOLUTION]

They are very accurate but first learn the dynamic range of the material and treat the material like transparency film- very little latitude!

[@bianx817]

@@FIGITALREVOLUTION thank you! Waiting for my new mod to arrive from Mint and bought some fresh film. Cant wait to test it out!

[@douwekrooshof881]

You nailed the exposure on the SX70! Even so, the difference between image 4 and 5 seems to have more to do with colour and contrast than exposure. The SX70 seens warmer and more contrasty. Perhaps the I2 suffers from veiling lens flare here?

[@FIGITALREVOLUTION]

Unfortunately the filming of the Polaroids leaves a k lot to be desired- the difference is subtle but the SX70 on in person is definitely the best.

[@cheezycheeder]

Wow, really great video once again! I’ve sent my camera to Dennis already so I can’t practice right now😅 but yeah totally agree that it’s always worth learning your camera if you wanna make the most out of it! Thanks for the video !!

[@FIGITALREVOLUTION]

Many more videos to come!

[@IAmManWithTheGun]

Thanks for your video! It's amazing how much the right exposure changes the feel of a photograph. Not only brightness, but also accents, contrasts, a sense of clarity. I wonder why the i2 in its default mode tries to overexpose the photo. And I was surprised when I saw the fifth picture, which turned out to be even better than the fourth, although it was taken “by feel.” I have a thought that mint should ALWAYS be moved 1/3-2/3 stop, except when shooting on a really nice sunny day (or in California). How do you think? By the way, I remember this advice from your old video about shooting in snowy conditions and try to keep it in mind. But not always, so sometimes I get amazing, clear photos, with good framing, but they are too dark, which ruins the whole feeling of the frame. It's also funny that if you look at these shots in good lighting, they don't look that bad, just a little bad. Therefore, it is important to view such photos in good lighting. Which is completely different from the digital photography we are all used to. When you try to “digitize” a Polaroid photo with a phone camera, this is a separate quest. The photo may come out in different shades, contrast, be blue or green, have glossy highlights or scratches. That is, lighting plays a role here twice: at the time of shooting, and at the time of scanning, as if multiplying. And yes, although I bought an expensive mint, 99% of the time I also keep it without a “head” (so called time machine) in auto mode. Perhaps I will also purchase a separate exposure meter and learn how to use it, or I will shoot night panoramas or birds, where such manual settings will be required. Your videos save a lot of time on gaining experience!

[@IAmManWithTheGun]

This is all fun and thrilling!

[@FIGITALREVOLUTION]

Happy to help! Yes I find the MiNT with current film benefits from a bit more exposure overall except as you state on clear sunny days.