How To Fit A Wooden Mantle Over A Fireplace

[@chrismoose64]

Nice one. I made a simple template screwed to the back of the beam, then drilled. Transfer template to wall (the right way round!) level and repeat drilling. Probably added 10 mins to the job but absolutely bang on with the alignment.

[@outpost31737]

Just what I was looking for. Many thanks!

[@s1udgeguts]

The mantle overhangs the fireplace by 7 inches, that works out to be 1200 wide! (glad to hear I'm not the only one who measures in m and inches!) Personally, looking at the piddly bits you cut off, I would've been tempted to centre the whole beam.

[@BerkleyBuilds]

Glad I’m not the only one who does it. It was a piddly little bit that I cut off but the beam was slightly damaged on one corner so I cut it off.

[@paulmackintosh9964]

Cracking video here, just found you and have now subscribed. I am currently making a mantle from the roof joist of one of my Sons loft (loft conversion) the joist is oak and over 100 years old. I was thinking of using support brackets to fix on but after seeing your video, I’m sold on your great idea / method. Thank you so much 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏 Paul

[@BerkleyBuilds]

Thanks for watching Paul and for the support. That’s an excellent savage! The oak joist will look great when it’s finished. All the best. Ben

[@lynneatkins5411]

Very helpful answered my concerns re correct height above wood burner . Thanks

[@BerkleyBuilds]

Thank you for the feedback, comments like that are why I make videos. I’m pleased you found it helpful and got the answers you needed. Ben

[@phillipburnside4610]

Quality mate.thats my next project

[@BerkleyBuilds]

Thanks Phillip, all the best with your project.

[@danielmurzellotheunknownma7481]

Amazing and Beautiful video🎥👌... Very interesting and helpful information👍👍👍 provided.. From start to end. Thanks for sharing👌 Do keep posting👌🆕 Warm regards and Best wishes The UnknownManCub👍😎👨‍🏭

[@BerkleyBuilds]

Thanks for the encouragement 👍🏻

[@caroljohnson697]

Really helpful 👏👏

[@BerkleyBuilds]

@@caroljohnson697 Thanks Carol. Are you fitting a mantle to your fireplace?

[@WagsOnWalks]

Looks a solid job, what size drills would you recommend for drilling into the wood and brick?

[@BerkleyBuilds]

Thanks. It depends how thick your threaded bar or rebar is. I’d suggest making your hole a few millimetres larger than your threaded bar to allow a positive connect with the resin. Cheers, Ben

[@drkevingilsenan8979]

Thank you for such an excellent video. I’m just about to purchase the oak mantel and have always wondered how to fix is it to a brick wall. I was wondering what sort of resin one uses for it, regards, Kevin

[@BerkleyBuilds]

Thanks Kevin! I used a standard mortar resin from ScrewFix, nothing special. All the best with your mantle install.

[@jiveandswing]

Great Video, just the job i am going to do, what kind of resin is it please so i can buy some.

[@BerkleyBuilds]

Hi, I’m glad the video was helpful. Commonly called chemfix, any chemical resin will do, you can find it at Screwfix, Toolstation or your local builders merchant. All the best with your project. Ben

[@davidmills2857]

Hello mate. Can you let me know what was the name of the resin you use please and where you got it from please. Cheers ears

[@BerkleyBuilds]

Hi David. The resin I used was from ScrewFix. Brand name - Fischer. However any mortar resin will do the trick. All the best with your project. Cheers, Ben

[@harrybrown3657]

I used a couple of keyway brackets recessed into the back of the timber, and then just two corresponding screws put into the wall. The advantage is that I can lift the timber off at any future time for decorating etc.

[@BerkleyBuilds]

Great idea Harry!

[@johnw2758]

Nice idea, what gauge/length of screws would you recommend please?

[@harrybrown3657]

@@johnw2758 Amazon do a good pair of round keyway brackets at £6.99. When they arrived I went to the shed and found two 75mm long screws with a smooth shank that fitted the slots nicely. Being round the brackets can be easily rebated into the rear of the timber with the same diameter drill bit as the bracket diameter.

[@ryandent7318]

came here for a bit of guidance, but couldn't help notice the Edinburgh Rugby Trackpants! Mon the Edinburgh!

[@BerkleyBuilds]

Hi Ryan, you’ve got a good eye for detail.! The trackpants are from a friend who played for Edinburgh.

[@erixariddell2172]

Good job!

[@BerkleyBuilds]

Thanks!

[@abyates600]

When drilling into the chimney breast and fitting the mantle would 110mm be close to the flue will it go straight through the breast have done the same but not fitted yet thanks

[@BerkleyBuilds]

Hi Ab, great question! You’d have to check the thickness of your chimney breast by looking up it. Some chimneys might be one skin of brick or it could be two skins. If it is one skin then 110mm would go through it. Good luck with your project, Ben

[@EmmaLockBrokenGlass]

I'm refurbish a 1900 terrace and I love your videos....do you do refurbishment for the original cupboards either side??

[@BerkleyBuilds]

Hi Rebecca. Thanks for the support! I don’t have any original cupboards in my house so sadly I won’t be able to do a video on it however, I can definitely advise you on how to tackle them yourself. What condition are they currently in and how do you want them to look?

[@bason85]

Thanks for the video, it certainly helped me install our beam. One question - I've noticed that the gap between the wall and the beam is very slightly (2mm) larger than when I installed a few months ago. Should I be concerned by this is, or is this a normal occurrence?

[@bason85]

I should add that appears the gap has only grown on one side of the beam

[@BerkleyBuilds]

I’m pleased the video helped. Yes, this is normal and it’s nothing to be concerned about. My beam has done the same thing and has even twisted slightly but I feel this adds character. The gap occurs due to thermal expansion of the threaded bar. Your gap may increase some more but it will stabilise. Thanks, Ben

[@bason85]

@@BerkleyBuilds Great, that's a relief! Thank you for the quick response.

[@4344km]

what size diameter threaded rod would you recommend, I was thinking M10?

[@BerkleyBuilds]

Yeah, M10 will work fine. From memory I think that’s what I used. All the best with your project.

[@jonathanhill4411]

Great video I'm assuming the thread bar measurements are backto front? You said 110 in wood and 70 into wall 🤷‍♀️

[@BerkleyBuilds]

These measurements were right for my set up. Measurements don’t have to be mm perfect but you do want to avoid drilling all the way through the brick, because this will cause the threaded bar to get hotter resulting in more thermal expansion. When drilling into the timber drill to a depth thats 3/4 the way through so you don’t punch a hole through the face of the timber.

[@MrPaysagistePro]

Hi great vid, what diameter were the threaded bars please ? We have a 35kg oak mantle to fit so I am going to use M12, what diameter holes should I drill for the resin? I’m planning 14mm holes for M12 threaded bar.

[@BerkleyBuilds]

Hi Martin, i used M12 and approx 14mm hole. Good luck with the install. Something to be aware of - If you’re looking to have a HETAS engineer sign off on the log burner then ensure your mantle is 450mm above the log burner. It’s a requirement in Approved Document J

[@fredbloggs4829]

Great video. For any job there are at least a dozen different solutions. I liked this approach. It would be interesting you hear your comments on the heating\building regs and where the 450mm distance came from.

[@BerkleyBuilds]

Hi Fred, thanks for watching and I appreciate the feedback. As a building inspector I have come across this issue a number of times. The 450mm comes from Approved Document J of the buildings regulations. It states an insulated flue pipe must be at least three times it’s diameter away from combustible materials. Flues are typically 150mm resulting in the 450mm requirement. A HETAS engineer may not issue a certificate if the mantle is installed incorrectly, equally this would be a contravention and a building regs final certificate could be withheld until resolved.

[@rob6rr]

I've been looking for info on this but can't find anything definite... Document J says the main distance (unshielded) between the flue and the beam is three times the diameter of the flue in any direction but I couldn't see anything about the top of the actual stove. A 5 inch flue pipe means 381mm . In that case. But the length of the flue pipe coming off the top of the stove can differ so I'm still confused about where the 450mm comes from. Are you able to clarify?

[@stevebarlow6547]

Hi, you have inspired me to fit my new beam myself. I bought some threaded rod with the beam, it's 8mm thick (which I'm guessing is m8!) What size drill bits would you recommend? 10mm? Very helpful video, thanks a lot, Steve

[@BerkleyBuilds]

Hi Steve, I’m pleased I’ve inspired you. A 10mm drill bit should be ample, you need enough space in the hole so the resin surrounds the threaded bar. As you push the bar into the hole give it a twist to give a good key. All the best with the project. Ben

[@sirrichardrichard5655]

I bought one of those wickes levels....it gave two different readings from new...not bang on...not bang on at all

[@BerkleyBuilds]

Sounds like the level had been damaged before you bought it. You could replace the bubble to fix it. I think you can buy new bubbles at Screwfix and Toolstation

[@tee2899]

The plinky plonky muzzak ruined it

[@BerkleyBuilds]

Noted, thanks.

[@davesmith729]

What resign did you use mate ?

[@BerkleyBuilds]

I used a mortar resin, no particular brand. You can get resin from ScrewFix, Toolstation or your local builders merchants. Good luck with your project. Ben