How To Fix Dead Synology NAS DS1813+

[@dono42]

My 1813+ failed on Saturday evening. I opened it up and replaced the CMOS battery. This resolved it and it is up and working as normal. I had some problems removing the battery from the CMOS battery holder as it was really tight. A few parts of the battery hold broke off, and part of the glue (?) holding it to the motherboard broke allowing the holder to be moved slightly left-right. I considered bringing out the solder to reattach it, but it was really tight and too close to other components. I reassembled everything and it seems fine. But I wonder if it is possible or recommended to replace the battery holder.

[@NicksElectronicRepair]

If it works as is then no don't really bother. Plus once you have the unit plugged in and set up you aren't going to move it around nor are you going to disconnect the NAS from power so really it may not matter at all. If it works as is, I would say don't worry about fixing it. If you commonly disconnect it from power, then I would say perhaps this is something worth looking into.

[@hateWinVista]

Your amazing skills made it look easy!

[@NicksElectronicRepair]

Thank you!

[@IQ-bw2lu]

love the vid but how do you know what capacitance is needed on the board what will happen if you put a higher or lower capacitance

[@NicksElectronicRepair]

That's a good question, and the answer is I had to cheat off another unit that had good caps on it. If you put lower capacitance, then it will do nothing, if you put slightly higher it will be fine, there is some wiggle room, but if you go too high then it could have a negative impact. The most important is that you have a high enough Voltage rating, otherwise your components will burn up. Since we know the highest voltage on a motherboard is 12v you can technically get away with 16-20v but usually, to be safe I go with 25v.

[@IQ-bw2lu]

@@NicksElectronicRepair thank you very much and thank you for taking the time to answer my question

[@NicksElectronicRepair]

No problem, happy to help!

[@wouldyouohwait]

@NicksElectronicRepair What is causing the caps to fail...bad PSU voltage/current?

[@NicksElectronicRepair]

I can't be certain but I would say it's just wear and tear. These units are over 10 years old, a lot of devices aren't really built to last that long anymore. Those specific and exact caps do commonly fail so it's perhaps as simple as the engineers should have put caps of higher quality or higher voltage rating that would last longer and nothing more than that. A lot of times people say, that replacing the bad component is not enough and we have to figure out what caused it. The reality of it is that often the component was just at the end of it's life. Replacing those caps without performing any other repairs has never triggered a warranty. We offer a 1 Year warranty on our repair, and we have fixed about 20-30 of these units in the last year and a half with this issue and have never had one come back. This is why I don't believe there is really more to it other than just those components were at the end of their life.

[@wouldyouohwait]

@NicksElectronicRepair I suspect the same as you. There is someone online (I'm sure you know who I am talking about) that claims the he and 1 other person in Germany are the ONLY ones in the world that can fix these units properly, however I call BS on that.

[@NicksElectronicRepair]

Yes, I know exactly who that is. Im always skeptical of companies/people who are the only ones in the world who know the secretes to how to do it properly and everyone else is doing it wrong but they won't tell you what they are doing wrong or what you need to do in order to do it right. If they did videos showing everything and explaining things then I would be more likely to believe them. This is part of the reason we share all of our repairs on KZbin, the more "secrets" there are, the less trust there is in the repair industry, and the less people get their electronics fixed. Yes I gave away our repair secrets and now plenty of people won't be sending in their Synology unit for us to fix, but you know what, more people are now aware that these can be fixed, so we end up getting more repair requests, and overall a heck of a lot more of these are not getting tossed out. This is a net positive for everyone. The same thing goes for the Saab ECU repair video we recently published. We had someone reach out and thank us for posting the video on the repair, apparently they were 1 of 7 people bound by an NDA that knew how to fix the units. I was the first to make a video and publicly show how to fix the thing. Kind of crazy that you would want to limit people's exposure on how to fix electronics. It's not helping you be more profitable, it's hurting you as a business more than anything if you think about it.

[@dougshellusn]

Do you have a guide for the DS1512+? I am having similar issues. For a long time the blue light would stay on but now it wont come on at all.

[@NicksElectronicRepair]

A lot of different reasons for that. I would recommend you check out all these videos I made on repairs for similar units kzbin.info/www/bejne/oKiwlGZ9j5x4qNU kzbin.info/www/bejne/mWmcp3mmq7J2a68si=kztaarOck35_ich2 kzbin.info/www/bejne/rqG5Zqyag8mrfsksi=--bzcp8hc5HP8BoS

[@dougshellusn]

@NicksElectronicRepair wow thanks for getting back so quick. I was looking through your videos looking for a "jump start" pin like on you 13+ videos. When I push the power button, all lights flash once (not even what looks like a deliberate flash, more like a blip) and then nothing. I was hoping to force it to boot like in your other videos but it seems the pin out is different

[@NicksElectronicRepair]

I don't think we force the unit to boot in any of our videos. There is one video where we opened up a QNAP device where someone had forced the unit to boot by soldering a wire between the PS_ON pin and ground but we immediately took that off because that's not something you want to do. It's not going to make the unit work. It's just activating the power supply with the motherboard still being off which won't do you any good.

[@dougshellusn]

@@NicksElectronicRepair oh I thought there was a video where you bridge two connectors and if it works then that means a specific transitor is bad

[@NicksElectronicRepair]

If there is, then that's not my video. With that said, I know exactly what component you are reffering to but that transistor in question is not used on the DS1512+ so it's not something you need to worry about. It's only on the DS1515+ and DS1815+. Those are extremely different and a repair for those units has no corrolation to your 1512 and a video on the repair of those units should not be used to try and fix yours or vice versa.

[@joeshinghk]

What is the capacity of this capacitor? Thank you

[@NicksElectronicRepair]

10uf 16v is what we use

[@NicksElectronicRepair]

You could probably go higher on the V rating if you wanted but 10UF you will want to stick to that.

[@joeshinghk]

Thank you for taking the time to reply

[@NicksElectronicRepair]

No problem let me know how the repair goes

[@debugin1227]

Mine died too

[@NicksElectronicRepair]

Try the CMOS battery replacement first. If that doesn't work, check out those caps we replaced. Now I did a video on this unit because of how badly obvious it was on ours. However, it's not always the case. So use a magnifier to really get up close and see if you can identify a burning on the caps. if you don't check them with a multimeter for shorts. If they are burned even just a tiny little bit or if they are shorted then you know they have to be replaced and that's your issue. If you don't have the tools you can always send it in for us to fix it. Links are in the video description.

[@CompuWhizz]

The flux goes on before you solder!

[@NicksElectronicRepair]

Is that how it works?