How To Fix Leaking Pool Pump | Pentair Challenger Motor Shaft Seal Replacement & Housing Gasket Leak

The pool pump shaft seal on our neighborhood pool started leaking tons of water. The pool pump housing is a Pentair Challenger Pump 5hp mated to a large strainer basket designed for 5hp pumps. The pump motor we are using is a Century Centurion Model B1000
The motor shaft diameter is 5/8in
Pentair Challenger Pool Pump seal kit
Leslie's Pool Supply Repair Kit #65005 (Which was only available at Leslie's Commercial store)
Shaft Viton Pump Seal Part PS200V Leslie's Part #40677 (UPC Code: 810379030078 )
Buy from Amazon - amzn.to/3ydEVGq
Diffuser O-ring Leslie's Part # 66518 (UPC Code: 810379030375 )(Compare to PAC FAB PENTAIR #355331 or ALADDIN O-421 )
Buy from Amazon - amzn.to/382tpD8
Housing Gasket Leslie's Part # 608185 (UPC Code: 810379030467 )(Compare to PAC FAB PENTAIR #355329 or ALADDIN O-506 )
Buy from Amazon - amzn.to/3D8kyOu or amzn.to/3B1RhDp
Strainer Basket Gasket (AM GSKT TR100C LID 152509 Pentair 152509 8-1/2" O Ring Pump/Filter) Leslie's Part # 44562
Buy from Amazon - amzn.to/3japsm4
Other 5hp pump parts -
www.poolsupplyunlimited.com/p...
NOTE - A viewer commented that using silicone or PTFE based lubricants can decrease the life of the motor shaft seal (the ceramic face), and that only US SEALUBE should be used on the motor shaft seal area. it is available here - amzn.to/3qsasTJ
US SEALUBE pdf for more info - www.ussealmfg.com/-/media/j/u...
The pool pump motor ended up needing its bearings replaced also because water had gotten past the multiple seals and into the bearing. The motor is a Century Centurion B1000. It was impossible to find out what size bearings were used. None of the pool companies knew, and I also contacted the manufacture, which led me to their local service center, who spent some time looking for documentation that had the bearing sizes, and they could not find it either. Finally, the bearings seized, the pump motor stopped, and we had to remove and take it apart to determine the bearing dimensions.
The front bearing is an NSK 6304DU (Replaced with a 6304-2RS) designed for a 20mm shaft - www.mcmaster.com/catalog/6661...
The rear bearing is an NTN 6203LH (Replaced with a 6203-2RS) designed for a 17mm shaft - www.mcmaster.com/catalog/6661...
Pool Pump Seal Replacement for Pentair Challenger Motor Shaft and Housing Seal Gasket Leaking Leak
Pool Pump Seal Replacement for Pentair Challenger Motor Shaft and Housing Seal Gasket | Cedar Park
#pool #poolpump #pump
The products shown here were purchased by me with the intent to use them. I did not receive any free items, and I am not being paid or compensated for this review. The video, description, and comments may contain affiliate links. If you click on a link, I may receive a commission. Money earned helps to support my channel and bring you more informative videos about engineering, crafting, and DIY

[@user-ou1nn3oc7w]

Just finished a motor replacement on mine following this step by step. 1hr. You rock! Thanks

[@ceimo856]

I found a local pool motor company called A & D in Fern Park, Fl. He replaced the bearings on my Century 1.5 hp motor and impeller housing for $107. Works great

[@engineerable]

That's awesome, and good deal considering it costs about $50 for the bearings.

[@rudesword2852]

Duuuude! I think you just saved me a couple hundred. Thanks.

[@engineerable]

Right on!

[@DavidBlunt7]

This was exactly what I needed. Thanks!!

[@emeraldaisle2927]

Great video. I changed my o-rings and seal, and no leaks. I did use some o-ring lube.

[@engineerable]

Thanks, glad it worked out!

[@RetroLSG]

Thanks For The Video That Save Me Some Money

[@socal1144]

Excellent video, very much appreciated...

[@engineerable]

No problem!

[@hpelcman]

I did this some years ago and I remember it wasn't difficult at all. Thanks for reminding me👍. Perfect !

[@joeoliver9223]

GREAT video thanks

[@engineerable]

Your welcome

[@ehongrobles9159]

Awesome bro great content ❤

[@ehongrobles9159]

I have a question what will happen if I put everything new but run it without the diffuser o ring ? We have the exact same pump challenger

[@johnharbourt4236]

I am having trouble getting the second seal to seat on top of the other seal. I can't get it down on the shaft far enough to touch the other ceramic seal. Trick to get it to seat?

[@SOULJALOS]

Do you do any coaching? Like via phone or FaceTime? I have a residential appliance installer license here in Texas and would love to expand my knowledge and learn more about repairs. This was a great video. It helped me identify a problem for my employer

[@engineerable]

Glad this video helped you. Sorry, I don't do any coaching.

[@joshuavicknair8236]

Just did all this and now when I turn my pump on, it comes on but no water is circulating. When I turned the pump off it takes a few seconds to stop spinning when it is normally instant. Any ideas?

[@engineerable]

Is water filling in the strainer basket area in front of the pump intake? You have to prime the pump by filling the intake, it won't just pump air. If it is filled with water, then the impeller could be loose on the motor shaft.

[@joshuavicknair8236]

Yes thanks, I realized that after sending this message. I thought the intakes would prime it. Just filled my pump with water from the hose- no issue. Your video was great- super helpful. The front housing o-ring I ordered was slightly too large and round, the square shaped one is hard to find. Thanks for replying.

[@jonathanwang2009]

Hi, I followed the procedure to change seal, oring and plate ring. But after I put it back it doesn’t prime. I took it apart and put more lubricant and re-sit the plate ring which kind loose since the slot is wider. It still doesn’t prime. What should I do? Thanks

[@engineerable]

You often need to fill the strainer with water, and try to get the pipes to fill up until it flows over the top of the strainer. Then screw the lid on and it should prime.

[@jonathanwang2009]

@@engineerableyes, I did that. After it overflowed the strainer the water will drop some but still higher than the pipe opening before I put on the lid. But it still failed to prime. I opened the lid and the water level still like before I closed the lid. What else should I try? Thanks!

[@jonathanwang2009]

@@engineerableto clarify, the water added to the strainer bucket did not cover the pipe opening from the pool, but higher than the intake of the pump. No matter how much water I add to the strainer bucket, it will flow down the pool pipe opening, but will stay just below the pool pipe opening and above the pump intake opening. But it still fails to prime. When I turned off the filter, I could hear the water dropped back to the strainer bucket. One thing I noticed is that when I put on the seal, the one with black ceramic protruded a little, not as flush as shown in your video. But I thought since it has spring, when I hand tight the impeller, it should push it down to align flush. What should I check? Thanks

[@engineerable]

@@jonathanwang2009 The shaft seal is under pressure, so it would leak water if it wasn't installed right. It won't affect the priming. You've either got a blockage downstream, or your leaking air upstream. Check to make sure nothing is blocked downstream of the pump. Is the spider valve set correctly? Did you place the spacer back under the diffuser that goes over the impeller? (I've seen people leave that off.) Does the level inside the strainer drop when the pump is trying to prime? Our pump can take a while to prime. It pulls in water slowly at first and then eventually builds up.

[@jonathanwang2009]

@@engineerablethanks! It turned out that I didn’t add enough water to the strainer! Once I changed to spa mode it started to prime.

[@PrettyGoodLookin]

I just replace all my rubber seals 6 months ago and it's already leaking again. Is that normal ?

[@engineerable]

No, it should last at least a few years. If you have a saltwater pool, you may need to look for salt and ozone-resistant rubber seals. Otherwise, try a different brand of seal.

[@PrettyGoodLookin]

@@engineerable I have a Chlorine Pool. My pump is the same as in the video.

[@engineerable]

@@PrettyGoodLookin That rules that out. Read the comments by @nostromo256 about the special lube they recommend.

[@nostromo526]

I think you used a silicone based lubricant during your repair which is not recommended for this application. Per U.S. Seal brochure: “Common Causes of Seal Failure 1. The seal was installed using the wrong lubricant. Be sure to use a water soluble lubricant, such as U.S. SEALUBE, instead of a PTFE or silicone based lubricant.”

[@engineerable]

Thanks for that info. The people at our local LESLIE'S (commercial) pool supply are not knowledgeable enough to know details like this. They didn't even know that the motor bearings could be replaced. Should the US Sealube product only be used on the shaft seal areas, and silicone used on the pump housing o-rings? Seems like silicone could migrate around the pump housing.

[@engineerable]

Ok, I read this PDF www.ussealmfg.com/-/media/j/ussealmfg_com/files/resources/ussealube.pdf My understanding now is that you don't want to contaminate the ceramic seal faces with silicone or PTFE lubricant. I was careful to not get any grease on there, but since I applied grease to the rubber seals, it could easily cross contaminate during install. They say that the SEALUBE completely evaporates, so the only purpose is to aid in installing? If the rubber seals go in without any lube, do we even need this product?

[@nostromo526]

@@engineerable The fact that US Seal is making this recommendation as part of the marketing for their own lubricant product can certainly call into question the true need for the product. However I do believe what they say about silicone / PTFE being bad for seal faces is true. It may be that all you need is some good old fashioned distilled water for lubrication while assembling. I’m curious how their product evaporates completely with no residue. Perhaps it is alcohol based. I’m doing a pool pump / motor rebuild soon and have ordered their lubricant so I’ll be able to try it out. As far as cross contamination with silicone lubricant, typically it is applied with a VERY thin layer on o-rings. You only need to rub it on to make a lubricant sheen with no excess. Should be little to no chance of cross contamination. You may even be able to do this on the rubber portions of the shaft seal but using the a non-silcone / PTFE product removes any chance of accidental contamination.

[@spacecoastz4026]

I just bought a seal kit which included a small packet of lube. It says it is PTFE based lube. I've been using silicone base and/or dielectric grease for over 20 years and never a leak.