How to fix non structual rust without welding

How to patch rust holes permanently without welding.
Products used in this video:
POR15 Rust Paint: amzn.to/2KzzFUR
Wax and Greece remover: amzn.to/2OOA2hH
Fiberglass Cloth: amzn.to/2vvkW8O
Rubberized Undercoating: Any auto supply store

[@CoroPlanesLLC]

Be sure to put on glasses or safety goggles. I had the smallest of drops fling off my brush and hit my eye. It burned a bit for a few minutes and then felt fine. The next morning I felt like I had a sliver of glass in my eye. I looked in the mirror and I had a tiny black speck. I ended up having to have it surgically removed. The POR reacts with water to cure and it chemically bonded to my eyeball. After having the speck removed, I used eye drops for about 5 days and had a full recovery. The doctor said I was lucky the POR hit my eye in the white part. Had it hit the lens, I would have permanent damaged my vision.

[@JustFixIt99]

Noted, thanks for sharing. Glasses from now on it is.

[@DeanTheDoctor]

Thanks for the heads up! Glad to hear you're okay brother! 😊🌎☀️

[@kitjasabsgabs1830]

Always, ALWAYS WEAR GOGGLES, NOT GLASSES WHEN USING ANY AUTO PAINT, COATING ETC PRODUCT. Glasses are good but if you had goggles or face shield this wouldn't happen. It only takes a second.

[@ComboverChris]

Damn

[@zakprice2128]

Happened to a guy I work with. Crazy stuff. Glad you’re good

[@banditdad9837]

Used por15 for years . Best product I've ever found if you seal both sides or as they call it encapsulated. Never had a failure when done properly. Costly but works. Even used on a boat trailer fender that goes in and out of salt water landing 20 yrs no rust lasted longer than the galvanizing.

[@AMFitz]

The title of the video is "How to without welding." This is a good video for none expert repair people. Thanks

[@holmes1956O]

A M Fitzgerald so then panel adhesive and sheet metal woild still fit the title and be stronger and more structural. Auto makers use panel adhesive to build cars now so it would be the best choice for this type of repair and would cost about the same

[@CaptainSpalding72]

Thanks for recap

[@Doctrtony]

Or people who don't feel like welding lol

[@johnnyshd8250]

Fill it with Great Stuff, shave it off and undercoat it

[@KadeStringer2.0]

@@holmes1956O wow some companies don’t

[@zagor1453]

I didnt even know por15 was exist,,,,you saved my life thank u very much

[@mr.rogers1465]

Don't buy any metal prep it's a waste of money. All you need to make homemade metal prep is 4 parts water, 1 part white vinegar, mix it and bam cleans the metal and the vinegar eats the rust and thoroughly cleans it out. Hope to save you money in the future. Good video to help beginners or a easy quick fix for someone wantin to save money bud.

[@jarekgrenier6863]

Please stop hating. This is a very good way to repair a hole for 75$ instead of paying a professionnal shop 1400$. Of course it will not last forever, but if the car is at the end his service life, why not!? You don’t do this on a collection car, you do this one year or two before a car will go to scrap metal, just to don’t get harass by the cops. I always use POR-15, best product on the market !

[@londontrucker6804]

Exactly. I have just done that on my GF's Pug 107.

[@mcearl8073]

Dr Grenier I agree there, though I’ll say that this was a terrible repair for the time and money spent. I don’t care that it’s not the “right” way to do it, just that for really the same cost, time and effort it could have been made to look better. I suppose if you don’t care at all how it looks and just need it to pass inspection then it doesn’t matter, but even then why not just use some red paint instead of the undercoating? It’ll be cheaper and won’t stand out like a sore thumb. It’s not like the rubberized undercoating is really serving any purpose, the POR15 is what’s protecting everything. If he’d have spent just a few more minutes at the end and sanded everything and then maybe did another coat of por15 and then sprayed it red it would look 1000% better, or even if he’d have used the rubberized undercoating and did the whole rocker panel it would have looked better.

[@rickc303]

@@mcearl8073 you miss the part about the car having plastic rocker panel trim that foes over the entire area

[@lawrenceirvine8759]

Hey brother I appreciate the effort you went to to get this video up. You have more technical savvy and ambition than I do. As many have said this is not the ideal repair, but I don't think that was your intention. Maybe someone in this same position doesn't have a clue how to weld, or have a welder or even a place do "proper" body work. For those folks this information is useful and helpful and you deserve an ataboy for puttin this together. I've used this 'repair" technique in the past myself. Is it ideal? Hell no! but it gets the job done. As long as anyone using this technique understands that this is only as stop gap measure I say go for it. Good job man.

[@t-dog9169]

Spot on comment mate. I’m going to follow this method in Australia and try fix a BAD car with a heap of rust.

[@Tomsfoolery.]

Just about every car I work on (mechanical) are rusted bad. Here in Michigan there are no inspections. If it goes down the road, they drive em.

[@jacobfranklin820]

ts6034 hahah I’m in tawas and I’ve had some buckets!!

[@teneyuque1126]

@@jacobfranklin820 tawas is up north right?

[@jacobfranklin820]

Ishmill HD it is on the eastern side about 1.5 hrs or so of Saginaw

[@teneyuque1126]

@@jacobfranklin820 oh ok I live in saginaw I have some family that used to live in tawas

[@CopperheadGarage]

@@teneyuque1126 i live in sugondese

[@pedallinraw]

Tops tips with Por 15....use their marine clean then their metal ready for best results! Also before applying the lid put a plastic bag on there first..hey presto zero more stuck lids...🙂👍🏻

[@givenway]

Thank you for this video! This is plenty sufficient for my needs, although I did use POR15 cleaner/degreaser & then their metal prep prior to applying the rust preventative. I don't know how to weld and just need a quick fix to prevent air from flowing through (and hopefully stop the rust,) so this was exactly what I needed. I feel like most of the people commenting haven't used POR15 to understand it, nor have they researched the chemistry behind the process.

[@JustFixIt99]

Glad you found it helpful! I agree that most people here don't really grasp that its not like regular paint. Be sure to share, like and subscribe :)

[@smokintires8181]

Guys an 80 dollar welder will work too and it’s the right way. Still a good video for those who don’t live somewhere welding is ok.

[@1066qw]

Yeah, I thought a gas-less-mig welded patch with a random steel offcut would probably be faster than this paint and glass fibre technique (if you aren't looking for perfection).... And it is properly strengthening up that jacking point.

[@squirrelattackspidy]

Can I use rust converter instead of por 15? Then bondoglass and then rubberized undercoating, and then paint over that?

[@ukgal9]

Wow - haters gonna hate the comments seems a little judgmental - you are doing fine.

[@JustFixIt99]

Thanks, I take them with a grain of salt

[@mudbone789]

10 4 Birdseed

[@marvmaxfurian3558]

I used to use POR15 for all sorts of things and now I don't, it doesn't stick well to smoothly sanded or cleaned metal it is only good for rough rusty metal...and is very sensitive to UV light, so DO NOT use it where it will be hit by sunlight, even indirectly... for this application it would have been just as easy to mix up some fiberglass resin, which is specifically made for this purpose instead of using POR15 which isn't... also I would have ground the rust as you did then ideally painted the spot with epoxy primer (or at least self etching primer) let that dry, and then do the fiberglass repair with resin not POR15.

[@GlueHead200]

Marvmax nice response, to increase your success in killing rust check out Skunk Rust at SkunkRust.com

[@bonesstones6584]

POR15 is amazing stuff. I sand blasted my mustangs suspension components and then painted with POR15. You can wail on it with a hammer and it won't chip off!

[@edlithgow4360]

But why would you want to?

[@bonesstones6584]

@@edlithgow4360 - I should have said a buddy of mine painted the frame of an old truck he was restoring with POR15 and wanged it with a hammer to show me how tough that stuff is.

[@littlecesar003]

I'm not sure it will hold as far as to jack the car up in those holes ,I've used the fiber glass sheets with the bondo that has fiber glass in it and its strong. But as far as using por 15 I don't know

[@djfunkycraig]

Good vid mate, sometimes we just gotta do what we gotta do, and you took the time to show us, good work!

[@JustFixIt99]

Thanks

[@gimmefuel7268]

Doesn’t the POR 15 require a cleaner and a metal prep before using it?

[@JustFixIt99]

They suggest degreasing in their instructions.I haven’t found that to be necessary for my use case. Your mileage may vary.

[@gmonte12]

Good job for a quick repair. The only thing I might add is using a paintable rust converter before the POR15. Remove as much of the loose rust as you can inside and out and paint that stuff everywhere. I love it and use Gemplers rust converter.

[@JustFixIt99]

POR15 prevents rust from progressing, although in a different manner than a rust converter, so a rust converter is not required. In fact, POR15 is best used over untreated rusty surfaces, not prepared ones. I do however think that spraying a rust converter up inside with a pump sprayer wand to get deep inside where you can’t reach with the POR15 would be a good idea as I’ve said in other comments.

[@Xplorer228]

@@JustFixIt99 Would you suggest spraying the converter before or after hitting all the areas you can reach with the por15? Thanks!

[@JustFixIt99]

@@Xplorer228 Hmmm, I can only go on theory here as I haven't done it myself, but I would be tempted to use the POR first then apply the rust convertor. This way the rust convertor can't cause any adhesion issues for the POR. Might be worth sending an email to POR to see what they think. Maybe they can even shed some light on product compatibility for you.

[@GaryYoung-eq1ph]

Did u ever have to remove fiberglass on metal, what tool ,and procedure?

[@JustFixIt99]

Sorry, I’ve never done that.

[@philipbohi983]

Nice. You used POR on a POS and filmed it POV... (Kiddin. Appreciate the video!)

[@henryhenry4377]

Hi do you have to wait for pr 015 to dry before putting fiber glass .Ty.

[@JustFixIt99]

Do you mean do you have to let the initial coat dry before applying the fibreglass coated in POR15? No you don’t, I usually let the first coat tack up, then apply the fibreglass layer. You can do it all at once if you want.

[@henryhenry4377]

@@JustFixIt99 how about rubberguard all at once Ty.

[@JustFixIt99]

@@henryhenry4377 I would definitely let the POR cure before coating it with the rubberized undercoating.

[@badboetie75]

JustFixIt99 Not bashing you or your vid, brother. But I've got my fair share of time in a body shop. But thought I would mention that usually (not always) rust on a rocker panel usually comes from trapped water and dirt inside of it. The issue I see is you cleaned up the outside pretty good. But the inside is going to rot from the inside out. POR15 is some good stuff. But we have went to chassis saver and have had better results. But figured I would give ya some food for thought!

[@3rdwrldkid]

i just bought a car with major rust whats the best stuff to use ive seen different methods im a little confused.

[@beemerboy722]

Russ T. Nutts e

[@tomchristopher71]

I used to use POR15 and also switched to Chassis Saver.

[@edlithgow4360]

Seems fairly pointless. The glass fibre will inhibit drainage of the area, serves no cosmetic purpose here, and isn't structural, so it would have been better and cheaper just to clean up the rust and leave it at that. I use sunflower oil and abrade with flattened beer can in a power drill. Costs nothing and works quite well.

[@splash5974]

Ive used POR-15 many times over the years...Its not a miracle paint by any means, but its pretty good. Where would i find Chassis Saver?

[@FuelAirSparkTime]

What about the INSIDE of the rocker panel? Won't it just keep rusting from the backside out?

[@JustFixIt99]

As mentioned in another comment, I try to coat as much of the inside of the affected area as possible with the POR15. You could also get some liquid rust converter and put it in a sprayer and spray up inside. The wand would allow you to reach further in and treat the area better. Then once that dries you could continue on as I’ve shown.

[@FuelAirSparkTime]

@@JustFixIt99 thanks for the reply. I'm dealing with some insidious rust on my Mitsubishi GTO that formed from the inside. I don't know how to approach dealing with it since it's behind the overlapping layers of sheet metal that are spot welded together.

[@rashanp591]

Which por15 are you using can't see a clear shot of the can

[@JustFixIt99]

I've added links and product info in the description :)

[@SwPiotrek]

How long it lasted?

[@souravde970]

Hi bro the rusting had bitten my cars jack point Before watching you r video I have cleared the rust with metal brush,emery paper 80grit and painted redoxide primer with brush. But I m not sure whether jack would support the car or not-diesel engine I wish I could share the snapshots with you. Please reply asap.

[@JustFixIt99]

If there is no internal support structure then no, this won’t support a Jack. The method I showed is for non-structural areas only.

[@souravde970]

@@JustFixIt99 do you instagram ?

[@JustFixIt99]

@@souravde970 no

[@igotmyeyesonu3361]

Better use a good size syringe if you need a small amount of PDR -15. No spill no drip. By the way, when applying a fiberglass resin on a fiberglass cloth, is it not right if I just dip it in the can of fiberglass resin instead of brushing it?

[@JustFixIt99]

Just a technicality, POR15 isn't a fibreglass resin. It just works really well with fibreglass cloth. Good Idea with the syringe though, although it would be ruined as soon as it dries. I would suggest against dipping the cloth into the can, only because you would get way too much on it and I think it would waste a lot of the product. Also, the brush helps to push the POR into all the fibres.

[@Cyberpuppy63]

A wire wheel (+ drill), metal grade sand paper + metal primer, with anti-rust. Basic method, that works.

[@JustFixIt99]

Except that won’t patch the hole.

[@sw2sw2sw2]

Nice vid w good tips. Thanks. Why was the rubberized outer coating needed? Couldn't you have eliminated the "pin holes" in the fiberglass with an additional coating of the POR-15? TIA.

[@JustFixIt99]

Very likely the POR15 is enough to seal all the pinholes, however I felt that the rubberized undercoating offered a little additional insurance that it was 100% water tight. Also, depending on where you are on the vehicle, it also helps it to blend in.

[@misguidedsaint3693]

This is good to know, I’ve got a few old cars that I’m working on that are rusted pretty bad. But I don’t do body work, I mostly do engines.

[@omytorres4125]

@MotoFab what method do you use.?

[@drabigorspins]

So you didn't impregnate the glass? Just por 15?

[@JustFixIt99]

Just saturated it in POR15 like I showed in the video.

[@marcopenz4349]

Hey man bought a van and it has some holes near the wheel housings. think your repair looks fairly easy. Do you think it will hold up against some rocks and stuff that are thrown up by the wheels?

[@JustFixIt99]

Absolutely

[@richardcasey7521]

The base metal isn’t thoroughly free of rust yet. A much better approach I believe would be to use heavier fiberglass matting soaked in catalyzed fiberglass resin applied directly to clean bare metal. Once hardened the fiberglass repair can be sanded and blended into the body contours. Prime and paint and use the POR-15 on the inside surfaces to eliminate rust.

[@JustFixIt99]

The area was rid of all loose rust, the reason for the initial cost of POR15 was because it is a rust converting/arresting paint. As such any rust that was left won't be able to grow/spread any further. If you put fibreglass on first the rust will grow underneath, eat around the edges of the fibreglass, and cause the patch to fall out. You see it all the time. The rust must be treated first as I did before any patching material is applied.

[@chrisswinamer5755]

Pr15maybegood.lfyocanbuyit.

[@PauloRibeiro-yv1lx]

I agree to you. In video is clear that the base was not toltally free of rust. Problably in short time Space, the rust will flow on body surface again. I like it better your method. The fiberglass resin, add so much more protection against rust. And results for finishing is much better after fiberglass resin is hardened. 'Cause you can sand and plane perfectlly all surface..

[@sidneyclemencia1881]

T

[@PauloRibeiro-yv1lx]

Surely...

[@next0845]

Wouldn’t get away with that repair in the UK. That would fail the MOT (annual inspection) and have to be welded before a certificate would be issued.

[@ksajak]

Its under a plastic body panel. He'd be just fine!

[@next0845]

@@ksajak 😂 👍

[@ksajak]

@@next0845 🤣😂🤣😂 its under something you'll never see it. Can't fail a car for something you can't see. No hole, its covered. Nobody will ever know. But its just so funny 🤣😂🤣

[@LairdScooby]

@@ksajak Until it's jacked up for the MoT nobody would know, then the car will fail the test and possibly be impounded. If you're lucky, the tester will cancel the test and tell you to get it fixed before bringing it back

[@brandonhanson1622]

When finished could it hold alittle weight and be able to screw into?

[@JustFixIt99]

I would suspect so, but I’ve never tried it.

[@bowtechlover1]

So I have question about ambient temperatures and using the por 15 and rubberized coating. Is the an optimal temperature in witch to use these compounds? I live in the mid Atlantic region of USA and wanted to work in some rust spots since like you said you can do it in a weekend. What about the temps? Currently in low to high 40s during the day. I don’t mind working I used but worry about the drying portion of the compounds. What’s your thoughts on this and anyone’s experience in the temps of my neck of the woods? Thanks in advance. Love the video.

[@JustFixIt99]

I would hit up the POR15 website and see what their recommended ambient is. I had a quick look but didn’t see anything so you may have to send them an email. Since it is a moisture cured product it may be able to dry in cold temperatures, I would just expect it to take much longer. I have used it below freezing before, but I had a halogen light pointed at the work area to warm the metal and then kept it there as it dried. Probably not idea but I was in a bind and needed it done. I also used it once near freezing without heat, it was years ago but I seem to remember it took forever to dry, as in days. I wouldn’t recommend either as a practice unless the POR15 people say otherwise. Likewise the undercoat, the can should state a minimum application temp.

[@bowtechlover1]

@@JustFixIt99 man than you sooo much for your quick response. I will def contact the Por 15 manufacturers and see what the recommend. I just had a thought, I do like the halogen idea as well. But what’s your thought on using a heat gun to slowly heat the area. What’s your thought on this while using the rubber coat?? Thanks so much for all your help!! 🙏🏽

[@JustFixIt99]

@@bowtechlover1 I think a heat gun might be too hot. You also ideally want the area to stay at the right temperature during curing I would imagine.I seem to remember once the surface was warm I applied it and left the light on to keep it warm. Again, probably not the way to do it.... With most paints and rattle can products you want the cans to be at room temp as well before applying.

[@bowtechlover1]

@@JustFixIt99 awesome. Thank you sooo much. I appreciate it. I think I’ll prob wait until spring to do the bodywork but work on more the mechanical like whole brake assembly and shocks and other stuff that doesn’t require temperature sensitive stuff. I’ll be cold though. 😂😂 Man I appreciate all your help and input. Keep making your great videos. Happy Holidays to you.

[@JustFixIt99]

Happy to help, good luck with your project! Be sure to share, like and subscribe :). Happy holidays to you too.

[@RAMZEEERRDAY]

So just por15 and fiberglass sheets is all that’s needed?

[@JustFixIt99]

Essentially yes, I provided links in the description.

[@alansexton7]

Was it not rusting on the inside also? Hard to imagine how it wasnt.

[@JustFixIt99]

I coated as much of the inside as I could, it wasn’t nearly as bad as the rest. The rust was really localized to around the Jack tube. There are a couple other comments here that discuss the same question. If I was to do it again I would spray the inside of the channel with a pump sprayer/wand of rust converter. Apparently there is also an aerosol product that has a long tube and a nozzle at the end designed for this.

[@kkpaine]

I’m going to do an edge of truck cab repair that has just started into the water diversion channel. I’m assuming I forego the Stone Shield, right? I notice your patched area has indentation which I’d like not to have. Is bonds the correct filler to use or maybe resin?

[@JustFixIt99]

Somehow missed your question. Sorry about that. I use the stone shield as a final waterproofing layer. However with 2 coats of the POR15 it should be waterproof I would think. The indentation will be dependant if the size and shape of the hole your filling. I see no reason why you couldn't use bindi to fill it. But you would of course have to paint the bondo as it is not waterproof. I've never used resin so I can't comment on that directly.

[@SFtruckerWolf]

Only welding is legal in Finland on so place.

[@craigcrushme]

My only misgivings on this otherwise excellent work is that the MoT tester may scan strustural areas with a magnet thus issue a 'fail' whenever non-metalic matter is detected.

[@iamasmurf1122]

Andrew McIntyre you can buy bog with metal filaments that any magnet will still stick to with that so called test

[@Littlelamb2023]

Not sure y so many thumbs down. with it being under a plastic trim this is a very adequate repair for an old car! well done!

[@JustFixIt99]

thanks

[@JustFixIt99]

+pettraine the reason for using POR15 here as the adhesive is that it is a rust converting/encapsulating paint. If you were to use fibreglass resin or any other adhesive the rust would continue under the repair until it dissolved all the metal the patch was adhered to, at which point the repair would fail.

[@JustFixIt99]

There was no need to sand and the undercoating was to seal the repair against any water infiltration

[@rayschrum5855]

Gi

[@rayschrum5855]

pettrain

[@charlessanders1342]

On mine just gonna get a piece of sheet metal and form it to the bad area coat inside the rocker with rubberized undercoat and back of sheet metal plate and screw it on prime and paint outside good enough.

[@JustFixIt99]

The rubberized undercoat will not stop the rust. It will keep rusting and eventually rot out the area. You need to use a rust converter or rust encapsulating paint.

[@dette-envers-les-animaux]

good job but to be definitively efficient, you should put grease everywhere. grease et the only thing very efficient against rust. put grease between metal and carpet, inside door, behind bumper, behind (inside the car) the repair you made (everywhere inside this hole before reclosing it ), hollow areas... For rear wings unreachable with a paintbrush, use an extender and poor old oil everywhere each year.Handyman Experience - 35 years. From france

[@Robstar-m5l]

I've learned something thanks to your video

[@JustFixIt99]

Glad to help. Be sure to like and subscribe !

[@saran4999]

How is this holding up? Any rust?

[@JustFixIt99]

I sold the car years ago so I can’t provide you with an update one way or the other. Sorry.

[@bocabral1433]

What about the rust on the inside you must stop it as well

[@pyramydseven]

Im sellin' this bitch.

[@Janeconnerallen]

I would prefer to clean it out, treat the rust with acid , then fill the damage area with the fiber cloth and bondo and paint it to match the vehicle.

[@brucesimpson7169]

Another new Chevy truck. Have had several. Drove it home and started siliconing the body cracks/gaps under the doors/rockers and corner pieces due to sand and water and who knows what being splashed up inside body which allows it to rust from the inside. it was a success, long term fix called preventive.

[@mariapatterson7951]

Bruce Simpson 9th to see if

[@DJNaturaultone]

How's it holding up? Can you use a filler over the por?

[@JustFixIt99]

Sold the car some time ago, but I have made similar repairs that have held up no problem. You can absolutely fill over the por. There are some other comments here who have asked the same question and I have mentioned some things that should make that easier.

[@DJNaturaultone]

@@JustFixIt99 thanks bro

[@Unicornmeme123]

Do it pass mot if I gonna do in that way?

[@JustFixIt99]

We don’t have an MOT in Canada, so I have no idea what your rules are in the UK.

[@joeb4117]

wow, now I have some ideas on what to use my old pens and pencils for. stirring stuff. I won't be throwing them away anymore. More things to hoard.. cool, just what I need : )

[@pcdetail602]

😂😂😂😂

[@zagor1453]

Can u use body filler on that?

[@JustFixIt99]

I don’t see why not. A few other people have asked the question and have discussed it a little more fully.

[@peterrivney552]

Clean every speck of rust out of there with a die grinder burr if you don't it will bubble the fiberglass cloth ... You would be better with long strand fiberglass kitty hair and stuff it inside to help strengthen it why don't you sand it smooth and make it look better then you could do a little bondo block it straight and paint it so it looks like factory. I'm glad you think it won't come out again but from my experience it will.

[@JustFixIt99]

Have you ever actually used POR15? Or is this just an opinion having never actually tried it? This stuff actually works better if the surface isn’t free of all the rust. Says so on the can.

[@kenc8472]

I have a lot of rust holes to fix in the side of my Sprinter van. Instead of POR-15 could I use the bottle of Resin/Hardner combo to apply to my fiberglass instead? I have a large bottle of Resin I purchased, would like to save $ wherever I can. Thanks

[@JustFixIt99]

The advantage and reason for using POR15 is that it encapsulates and stops rust from spreading. If you patch over a hole with only fibreglass, or only bondo for that matter, the hole will continue to rust and grow under your patch. It will then grow bigger than your patch and the patch will fall out. By first coating the rust with POR15 you are preventing it from ever rusting again as well as preventing the rust from spreading. I suppose you could treat the area with POR15 then use fibreglass to patch over it, but you’ll still have to buy the POR15, so I’m not sure you’d save anything.

[@Leatherkid01]

Nextime use bedliner vs undercoating....its better it dont retain moisture

[@cliffnelson1174]

Use some disposable aluminum cooking pans to catch the rust and What not.

[@johnmaxx4818]

Informative however the rust inside the hole is still going to continue I would suggest a spray it with Osco acid which deadens the rust and turns the rust to carbon and then do your stuff

[@johnmaxx4818]

I meant ospho

[@johnmaxx4818]

It's a green phosphoric acid which deadens rust turns to carbon you can even paint over it

[@JustFixIt99]

Other have mentioned this, and I agree. While I did paint as far inside as I could with the POR, there is no doubt some spots I missed\couldn't reach. Were I to do this again, I would get a spray bottle of rust convertor and spray down the inside as far as I could to kill anything that may have been out of reach.

[@zakthewarcat3172]

this is a perfect repair for a beater car

[@JustFixIt99]

Or in this case, a spot that is normally covered with a trim panel

[@KenpoOjoko]

Interesting. But you build up the surface quite a bit, so I guess you had to grind a lot. Also, would we need to build thickness behind the surface so that you can grind the surface, not worrying about grinding too thin?

[@JustFixIt99]

As I mentioned in the video this area is hidden behind a trim panel so I didn’t not have to worry about it being flush. This method is not meant for cosmetic repairs, although if you hammered the area to create an indent I’m sure you could. This is mostly for footwells, trunks, underbody, etc where you can’t see the affected area.

[@namAlexander]

inside needs treating also, and its easier to use a two pack fibre glass filler it works the same

[@JustFixIt99]

Glass filler won’t stop the rust. If you just use filler it will rust out from under the patch and then the patch will eventually just fall out.

[@namAlexander]

@@JustFixIt99 that's why you cut it out and treat the metal then use underseal on the back works every time

[@googleuser1897]

Like the simplicity of the repair, but I do have a question. (hope your still checking comments:). After its all coated and dried can it take paint and clear? ie not real appealing to be running around with a big black splotch on your veh. Tx (enjoyed the vid and alternate use of product. :-)

[@JustFixIt99]

The repair I made was under a plastic trim piece, so no one would ever see it. However if you want to you can paint it. Just make sure the undercoating is paintable. A quick Google search shows that most of them are. In fact you could probably bondo over the repair, sand it, prime, and paint it. I see no reason why that wouldn't work, and then it would be more aesthetically pleasing. Glad you enjoyed the video, be sure to like, share, and subscribe :)

[@googleuser1897]

Tx appreciate it.

[@JustFixIt99]

no problem

[@rj11wacat]

10:03 "Meow"

[@Barrios951]

George Foley hahahahahahahaha

[@zakthewarcat3172]

MEOW

[@ashtonharvey5723]

😂😂😂

[@jiyanchammo5862]

😂😂😂😂

[@MAYCOCustomRestorations]

If you are not going to weld it, you would be much better off going to the hardware store to buy a small panel of sheet metal, tin snips and some quick set epoxy. Cutout the shape patch you need, tread both sides. New cars are mostly put together with panel bond (epoxy glue) which could be used to bind the new piece to the car. It would take 1/4 the time of this and be much stronger. Plus POR 15 does not have a structural bonding makeup which is what glass matting needs to actually stay ridged and strong. The reason why fiberglass structure is so strong is because the resin (two part compound) solidifies as a very ridged but brittle structure within the glass matting which is what gives fiberglass its strength.

[@JustFixIt99]

I have to disagree. Given the curvature of the area it would be very difficult to fit a metal plate in a way that would allow enough surface area for the epoxy to bond. My method makes it easy to do curved areas and the POR15 prevents it from rusting further. The POR15 and the glass cloth are more than rigid enough for this application and are quite strong as far as I’m concerned.

[@andrewrivas6163]

Would this work if you have hole on the roof of your van ?

[@JustFixIt99]

Can’t see why not.

[@angelamiske2610]

Would it be possible to use drywall mesh tape instead of the fiberglass cloth? Might be easier to handle/neater? Not sure about cost difference.

[@angelamiske2610]

Also, thank you for this video. I live in Michigan and my work truck/family vehicle is Swiss cheese because of the salt! I’ve never welded before so this is helpful.

[@JustFixIt99]

@Angela Miske Glad it has helped. While I won't say that you couldn't use drywall tape, I don't know that it would work very well. The fibreglass cloth works so well because it not only absorbs the POR15, but also has extremely fine holes that are easily filled by it. I feel the drywall tape could work, but would require a lot of layers to amount to any sort of solid surface. Since the POR absorbs into the cloth, when it dries the entire cloth stiffens and hardens like a rock. There are different fibreglass materials similar to the cloth that I used that are heavier\thicker. I just found the cloth easy to work with and to make conform to the surfaces I've worked with so it’s what I’ve stuck to. All that being said, you never know until you try!

[@deadmansfingers3283]

Why not use aluminum net and filler to fix a hole?

[@JustFixIt99]

As mentioned in the video, filler does not stop rust. If you just use the aluminum mesh and filler, the rust will continue around the edges, and then the patch will fall out, leaving you with a bigger hole than you started with. Using POR15 stops the rust, and will be a permanent repair.

[@deadmansfingers3283]

@@JustFixIt99 sorry, i didn't know how to put it clearly what i meant. Are there benefits on using that fiberglass net and por15 over sanding to bare metal, applying epoxy primer, then aluminum net and poly filler, then sanding and applying another coat of epoxy primer. I know nothing about this stuff, thats why i want to know :) as The epoxy/poly with aluminum net -thing is what im doing now as after looking for best protection against corrosion for few days from The internet thats what i settlet for. Sorry My bad english. All The best, great videos!

[@jason4832]

I was thinking bondo over the hole after preping metal, but i do agree por 15 is an awesome product

[@letmefindout81]

guys stop complaining, I'm sure this ain't a collector's car, might just be a tool, so no need to go spending x amount of hrs fixing it right when most likely he will get rid of it in 2-3 years. yes the right way is cutting the rusted part out and weld a new piece.

[@bonniebabyboo3095]

Axel Official This vid is for those who "do not" weld. If you weld this vid was "not" for you. So, why are here, to make find fault and make complaint? Most cannot "afford" welders. We need and "appreciate" his knowledge. Meantime, why don't you go weld something.

[@bonniebabyboo3095]

Axel Official Lol!!! I just noticed your profile title, realizing you're "bitter" because these do it yourself vids, eliminating welders expense is cutting "need" for your profession and so your affecting your career for income... Lol!!!!!

[@Carsnbikes73]

Where I come from that's structural rust. But repair will last long enough.

[@MotorwiseBromley]

within 30cm of rear seat belt mounting

[@pentiuman]

Can I wear my favorite leisure suit while applying the POR15 pudding (as I nickname it)? I ask because it has plenty of pockets for brushes, sandpaper and rubber gloves and such. I usually wear the matching shoes w/ a white belt too. When the undercoating is dry, I'll already be dressed to go out roller skating - won't have to change. That will save seconds off my routine. As will not having to crack out the welder! Thanks for the video. I bet this repair will last longer than the rest of my car - but as the genius President Trump says, "We'll see." I'll check it every Spring after Winter has had its chance to damage the metal again, and I bet you 3 popsicles a minimal amount of surface rust will creep to the surface, because it's so devious. Thanks!

[@dutu000]

what about the interior side of the rusted metal sheet? will it continue to rust?

[@JustFixIt99]

I treated as much of the inside of the hole as possible, but yes, there will always be a little left behind. Another viewer suggested using a sprayer and some rust converter to soak the inside of the hole before the repair to try and treat more of it. I think this was a good idea and will probably do so next time.

[@gphilipc2031]

The cob-web is drivin' me crazy!

[@shanekneeshaw3483]

G Philip C same hear

[@CashApp-HelpMeStayAlive]

😂😂😂😂😂😂

[@snoopy5736]

You could always smooth it out with a flap wheel on the grinder

[@footbollpro]

Do you use body filler after? And can you paint over it?

[@JustFixIt99]

I see no reason why you couldn't bondo over this after its done. I'd suggest leaving the repair slightly concave so you can build it up flush with the panel afterwords. To paint over POR15, you just need to dull\scuff the surface, which basically means you needs to rough up the surface with some sand paper. Details on this are on the POR site.

[@hugeCRSfan69]

awesome video mate, thank you for taking the time to make it and help newbies like myself

[@JustFixIt99]

Glad to help. Be suite to share, like, and subscribe :)

[@NAMULTISS]

Why didn't you just plug the hole if its only be covered by panel anyway. Just repair rockers about 2 months ago and just covered them up and sprayed some transmission fuild in the panel to help slow down other rust.

[@JustFixIt99]

Because this stops the rust and still allows access to the jack point. Your method will only slow it down, not fix it.

[@okallup8012]

What if the hole is in a visible spot? Will this fiberglass cloth sand down for paint on top?

[@ksajak]

You'd use the fiberglass to fill any big gaps or holes then bondo over that so you're able to sand down to a flat surface. Then you prime and paint. Unless using glazing spot putty to really make it smooth then you'd use thet after bondo and before painting

[@adamjames1876]

Could I paint over this with regular paint to match my truck?

[@JustFixIt99]

As long as the rubberized undercoat you use is paintable, then yes, you can. I would read the can of whatever product you buy to make sure. A quick google search seems to turn up a lot of people that have painted over it with no issue.

[@Titanic19127]

If you wanna go ghetto like that, sure

[@sammyj184]

This worked perfect on my ex gf

[@marisacusack3636]

SUGAR JONES laughed so hard at this

[@sradman600]

ahahahaha i m sorry bro

[@tta5891]

My ribs lllllloooooolll

[@thatdudeinblack8707]

Holy shit lol i wasn't ready for that one lol

[@ARCSTREAMS]

plugged her up good huh

[@alvaradacosta293]

Do you have to also use bondo after completing that stage???

[@JustFixIt99]

The area I repaired had a plastic panel that covered it, so I didn't have to. If your repair is in an area that you would like to have appear smooth, and then paint, then yes, you will have to use filler (bonds) over it. If you do wish to bondo over the repair I would suggest making the fibreglass layer slightly concave so as to allow for the bondo layer to be applied and sanded flat.

[@scottm4042]

@@JustFixIt99 Another tip I've heard is to put up fiberglass with wax paper and before you remove the wax paper you can roll a small piece of wood broom handle to the wax paper to keep a smooth area that doesn't exceed the surface before bondo, or for better appearance.

[@jasonosgothorpe882]

Unfortunately it would fail the m.o.t in the UK,to pass it would need to be seam Welded!

[@iamasmurf1122]

Bullshit well sort of with fibreglass yes , however you can use bog which has metal filaments in it which when a magnet is run over it it will pass , I really doubt though that those underpaid morons in any testing station worldwide are paid enough to be totally thourough with cars

[@hanslund308]

i dont see how this could get negative comments etc. Sure it is not as good as welding, nothing is. But it should do a kinda good job for a good while atleast.

[@igotmyeyesonu3361]

What the real color of that Pdr 15? Is it silver or metal like color or black? I am kinda confuse with your video and the Way that didnt show how to apply it.

[@lourik8971]

Good idea. However, since this is a jack-up point; I suspect that this patch might crack or peel off once you attempt to jack up the vehicle((

[@JustFixIt99]

Nope, the patch held just fine. If you look at the beginning of the video you’ll see that I talk about, as well as show you the inner structure of the jack-point. The inner structure makes the area I repaired non load bearing.

[@lourik8971]

Good to know!

[@Picato75]

My car meanwhile is held together by a few kilos of Por stuff I guess.... :D Only I would recommend to use some (thin) sheet metal and cut and bend it to what you need instead of fibre glass and the use Por Patch paste. The repaired parts/wholes then are as stable as it was before.

[@gregwells2331]

POR 15 is not rust paint it is a rust converter. Once applied it sets up so hard that you will never be able to sand it off. That repair should last you quite a while.

[@nadiaqureshi3205]

Nice 👏 i’m gonna try this 😃

[@computeraddic675]

Ok,lets say this is working.But how do you get it smooth enough to paint it?It will stand out from the surrounded metal,so after paint its a bulge..

[@JustFixIt99]

As I said in the video, this area is covered by a plastic panel, so it does not need to be a cosmetic repair. This is really best for areas such as floor pans and other areas that are not cosmetic. If you wanted to use this in a cosmetic area I would suggest denting the metal in the area inward to create an area that you can fill with the POR15 and cloth, but is also deep enough to give you room to put a top layer of body filler on it to smooth it out.

[@kkpaine]

+JustFixIt99 just the advice needed to make a roof/water channel repair.

[@slicktrips]

Just saying instead of going through all that trouble go get actual fiberglass resin build it up then sand it down to match the body and paint it. It will look a lot cleaner and cost the same

[@JustFixIt99]

Except that it will keep rusting under the fibreglass and will get worse. As the rust continues to grow underneath the patch will eventually fall out. POR15 kills the rust and prevents it from spreading, creating a permanent repair.

[@omegaman7241]

isn't that the where the jack fits in to jack the car up?

[@JustFixIt99]

Yes it is. That’s why it has the sub structure that I show in the video.

[@TK-qd2lz]

Thanks, now I can stop worrying that I won't be able to fix my dad's 71 spilt bumper Camaro with a big hole in the rear🍺

[@Smoked786]

You can get pre cutted repair sheets for this car. They arent very expensive.

[@JustFixIt99]

Indeed you are correct. However the aftermarket sheet metal parts rarely fit easily, and also require that they be welded in. This video is solely how to repair a rust hole WITHOUT welding.....

[@russellhohl8495]

Good job. The only criticism I have is that you should have used a second person to run the camera as it would have been easier to follow. Thanks.

[@JustFixIt99]

That's fair. I'm always trying to improve my admittedly poor cinematography skills so I'll keep that in mind for my next videos. Normally I use a tripod, but since the repair was so low to the ground, this wasn't really possible.

[@robertvazquez8706]

Can you do this on the frame of a vehicle?

[@JustFixIt99]

No, a frame is a structural member. For safety it needs to have the metal structurally repaired. You could however coat the frame in POR 15 to prevent further rusting.

[@roadwarrior7401]

looks great .... but like you said rust comes from other side also, so unless this process is done inside also ....which isnt possible from what i can see as cannot access inside .....just sayin

[@JustFixIt99]

If you read through the comments this has been discussed at length. I’d suggest spraying the inside with a rust converter first. Several products out there that let you do that.

[@bolonymontana]

Where would one acquire this magnificent POR15 you speak of?

[@JustFixIt99]

I have a link in the description to where you can buy it on amazon. My local auto parts store also carries it.

[@bonniebabyboo3095]

Great instructional vid. Appreciate your including list of material used and where to find. Thanks.

[@shanesmaineshop]

nice solid job

[@ljaysperspective1775]

Great little inexpensive method to repair small rust holes. I appreciate it, thx for sharing.