How to fix rising damp & penetrating damp - (PART 2) Channel drain / french drain installation.

How to solve/fix rising damp and penetrating damp for beginners and professionals! I show how I lower a path, install a channel drain & french drain and connect it to a foul sewer. I demonstrate that rising damp is possibly a myth, and that cheap simple methods get results UNLIKE chemical damp proof cream.
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Silverline 230mm diamond cutting disk - amzn.to/37Jsm9i
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Hand saw - amzn.to/38QudtA
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For products like those used in this video click here:
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Underground P trap - amzn.to/346a2q3
Adjustable 90 degree bend - amzn.to/3aDRb8e
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For my other damp videos please click here:
Rising Damp Fix Part 1 - • How to fix rising damp... .
Rising Damp Fix Part 3 - • How to fix rising damp...
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Thanks for watching!
#risingdamp #fixrisingdamp #penetratingdamp

[@karleenmcclelland7248]

As someone who just got her first mortgage on a 100 year old house (my boyfriend has had the house for 16 years) I was convinced the damp was caused by low foundations and render issues. We're now making a plan to follow your videos on the two effected walls in summer when it's dry ❤️

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

Thanks for taking the time to watch. Bear in mind I'm not an expert, just a DIYer with a practical approach. For me this worked but obviously internal ventilation is important also on old houses. I have a wood burner in the adjacent room I crank it on throughout winter which heats my kitchen up a treat and helps also. Best of luck with it!

[@isctony]

As a surveyor this is glorious to see, kudos to you!

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

Thanks for the comment!

[@elishashawn3188]

I dont mean to be offtopic but does any of you know a trick to log back into an Instagram account..? I was dumb forgot my login password. I would appreciate any tips you can offer me!

[@trentroger9923]

@Elisha Shawn Instablaster =)

[@elishashawn3188]

@Trent Roger I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and im trying it out now. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.

[@itskoota]

@@elishashawn3188 SCAMMER

[@jaseb2223]

That was 1 of the best videos I've seen and very informative. Really like the fact you explained every detail where most just assume you know not to mention I have OCD and need to know everything 😤

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching.

[@welshspaceagency]

Great to see someone with a proper understanding of damp and air circulation and, more importantly, the use of lime. Cement kills houses.

[@robertcaffrey6097]

Well done mate you are doing a great job and know what you're talking about. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge and experience. Regards from Ireland .

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

Hi Robert, really appreciate the feedback. Good luck and thanks for watching!

[@soldier-Dave]

This is a pleasure to watch! Nice job Sir!

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

Glad you enjoyed it.

[@JK-we1dr]

Fantastic, video buddy. Thanks for sharing.

[@eamonhannon1103]

Really excellent video . Very well explained and demonstrated with practical advice all the way .

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

Glad you enjoyed it.

[@jameslester4624]

As someone in the water sector this is horrifying. Rain water in the foul sewer is why the sewerage treatment works flood and excrement gets in our rivers.

[@nixy102]

Excellent video and so well explained. thankyou

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

Thanks for watching.

[@B-SPEQ-BE]

Mega fix. Thanks.

[@EppingForest304]

Nice job 👍

[@alanyoung7532]

Excellent approach to low level internal damp - work with an old building and not against it - As pointed out applying modern techniques/materials (raised paving, cement rich render and injected DPC's etc) to old buildings (built using lime mortar), are likely to cause problems rather than solve them.

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

Thanks again for the feedback.

[@CraveThatCoin]

Fantastic work I have purchased a 100 year old house with minor damp. Since going through the buying process I've been learning about damp and will be doing a French drain like yours shortly. The ground levels are high around the house as the air brick is two levels lower than the grounds

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

Thanks for the feedback and good luck with your project.

[@CraveThatCoin]

POUSE around the HOUSE thanks I have started digging around the house and it's going well. I would love to get your advice on materials etc. Would be happy to pay you for your time if you'd be interested in checking out my pictures and advising on the best route to take

[@jamesf8651]

Good work no harm to lay on dry sand and cement mix doh will hold fr good and wet it later to set

[@peterfriel5129]

Great to watch finally somebody knows what there talking about instead of all these cowboy damproofers!!

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

Hi Peter. Thanks for watching and thanks for your positive comments. I assume you have watched all 3 videos but in case you haven't, there are 3 parts! I am in no way trying to snub anyone by doing this video, but I am amazed at some of the methods used for damp proofing and that the building/construction industry accept them. Everyone I know that has had chemical damp proof has had the damp back within 2 years and for some reason people accept that it needs renewing and pay again. I hope this video can help novice DIY home owners what methods can be used to really help solve or at least improve damp. I won't call it rising damp because I believe all damp is penetrating, but that's my personal view. These methods are not expensive either if having a go yourself. Once the brickwork is exposed, you can really start to see what's going on. I really hope retro damp proofing changes in the next few years as it really annoys me to see home owners spending hard earned cash on something I know wont work. Thanks again for watching, and please take a look at my other videos to see if there's anything I can help with!

[@gguzman6438]

@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE thanks for all your videos mate! really helpful. I get what your saying on theres no such thing as rising damp and only penetrating damp. However what are your thoughts on internal wall damp (my one is between a dining room and living room in a victorian terrace house). How can you tackle this problem?

[@alexprichard6003]

@@gguzman6438 I've the same problem. The internal wall has damp , it has had it's lime plaster removed and covered in gypsom which acts like cement and is non breathable. Need a removed and traditional lime plastered.

[@Letsgooutside2024]

@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE I have a similar issues to deal with but their are too many obstructions for a French drain. Would you advise on making a soak away trench and fill with shingle

[@jean-marcgruninger9019]

thanks, great video. need to do something like this with my house.

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

Best of luck with it!

[@vdizzleish]

Great video. Wondering what the outcome of it all was? I have the exact same issues so it would be great to know if it completely cured your problems or you would have done something more/else?

[@markstewart5523]

Top video top man

[@paulashford4155]

This is interesting...I am in Wales and my mother's old terrace house in Wales, no cavity wall.. has no trouble on the front of the house, but on the two external walls on the back of the houses, lower down the plaster peels and salts come through. Outside it is rendered with modern day cement, so I wonder is that render causing it and not letting wall breath. I guess the ground concrete could affect things too... anyway as a non builder myself I feel like trying getting the render hit off outside just a foot or so from the ground and then putting lime mortar near the floor... who knows

[@catwilkoko]

Great video! Just what my husband and I need to sort our damp house in Swansea. But when are you going to do a "how to keep chickens" video?

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

Hi Cat, thanks for the feedback and best of luck with your damp problems. As for the chickens, it's on my ever growing list of videos to do, but time is the problem at the moment! Thanks for watching.

[@Neilmumford]

Brilliant set of videos Thanks for taking the time to explain everything you have done - I’m curious why you went with French drains next to the house rather than eco drains, wouldn’t these be easier to maintain?

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

I put a channel / eco drain away from the wall simply because the path slopes away from the wall taking the water run off away to the drain. The french drain was because I needed to lower the path to stop damp, and as belt and braces added a french drain in case of any water pooling it could take it away without any splash back. Hope that makes sense. Thanks for watching.

[@newry123]

very helpfull

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

Glad to help.

[@AutoFreak10]

Another great video and good to see your getting on rightly. I'll be interested to see the French drain one as I am going to be doing this

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

Thanks again for your nice comments. You'll be pleased to see I just uploaded PART 3. It was too long to upload as one video unfortunately. Hope you enjoy!

[@TimothyCockle]

Great video. I have a similar issue but with gravel up again a wall and drain pipes straight into clay with no soak away. Have pulled gravel away from the wall and was going to fit a French drain below floor level with slabs as retaining wall keeping back the gravel path. Is there a reason you used a channel drain next to the wall? Is there an issue with using a French drain?

[@37rg]

Wanting to do this but our path slopes towards the house would you use a gully drain like you have on outside of the path to take all water away rather than French drain ?

[@websurfer1585]

Is stormseal on the exterior not a good solution?

[@bukhari2007]

Watched the videos about the French drain, really helpful and informative. I live in a Victorian house and already have French drain cut out but it's filled with small stones and soft soil underneath the stones. I want to replace the stones and soil with the drain pipe you have installed in this video. Does your company offer this service and if so how can we contact you?

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

Hi there. Glad the video was useful. I don't offer this service, the work in the video I did on my own property but if you follow those steps it is a fairly simple job to do if you feel up to it. Good luck with it and thanks for watching!

[@sundaybighouse]

What type of cladding did you use on the wall in the end?

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

Still haven't done it but I'm considering slating the wall. However, my damp problem has gone!

[@eamonhannon1103]

What would you recommend where there is dampness seen in subfloor floor of house adjacent to gable wall . Cavity wall construction . There is a path running down on the external side of the gable wall ( paved path I think) between house and neighbours house. Path is on neighbours property. Neighbours floor level also slightly higher ( 350mm approx) .Path extends all he way up the edge of the gable wall. Path level could have changed from original level because it was re-laid some years ago . What should I look for here to diagnose the problem ?

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

I'm no expert, just DIY with some problem solving but I would look to get ground levels lower than interior floor if possible, get water to flow away from house wall where possible. Also, if you have a cavity and it's an old house, it maybe worth taking out every 3rd brick for example at ground level, and take a look in the cavity as it may be full of old mortar and dirt from days when build quality wasn't quite as precise. That can cause damp to cross the cavity. Hope that helps.

[@eamonhannon1103]

@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE Thank you for your suggestions .

[@zacksgaragedoorserviceandr1208]

Well if you see on your downspout that elbow is installed upside down the wires is supposed to go through the elbow not on the outside

[@The.Occasional.Uploader]

What depth did you cut down for the channel drain? I'm going to be installing a channel drain myself for the first time soon. Cheers.

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

Just a bit deeper than the drain then pack it with subase to bring the drain to the level you want it. Best of luck.

[@barriehearne2951]

My house has solid 18" walls with sea salt water penetrating causing the wall paper, plaster and render to come off. Should I remove the plaster and render and use a storm dry water sealant and lime render or dry line. Would you recommend I seal the outside of the house with Storm dry sealant. Looking forward to your expert comments. Cheers, Barrie.

[@electronurd3234]

Hi Barrie, where is the sea salt water coming from do you live near the coast? If you have cement render (really important you check) on the exterior of the house and it is exposed to a lot of water spray or water then yes.. take off the cement render as the stuff only acts as a trap for moisture. DO NOT USE stormdry i'm afraid mate. Walls are designed to do TWO things and not one. The two things are 1. Keep moisture out which is what you are after and 2. Let moisture out. If you think about your house and you live, breath, cook, clean bath, cold air meets warm air (condensation) etc etc etc all of this creates a certain degree of moisture... that moisture has got to go somewhere.. has to.... it will either collect indoors if you don't have you windows open on a regular basis as condensation. Stormdry claims to enable brickwork to breath and yet also claims to stop moisture... you can stop moisture without using this stuff trust me. Check what your house is built with first cement or lime? and when was it built? If the house was built using a lime mortar then putting a cement render on top is pretty much going to ruin those mortar joints i can tell you now. Re point using lime render using lime only no cement! Cement is just the cheaper option but causes no end of problems especially if you live in a lime built house. Hope this helps let me know if you have any questions

[@barriehearne2951]

@@electronurd3234 Thanks for the advice. It is a semi detached concrete type construction. Built 1910 and facing out to sea. My neighbours are not suffering the damp problem and I notice their wall has been painted and only the lower part of my wall. Assuming it is a concrete construction, what would you recommend i paint the wall with. Also interior plaster and in places render has come off. Would you recommend a dehumidifier to dry the walls out and seal the walls prior to render/plaster or dry line. The sea facing windows will be replaced with double glazing, gutters, soffits and facia will also be replaced and chimneys and lead valleys and flashings will be inspected. One chimney is being reduced below roof level as it has let a large amount of water in. Cheers, Baz.

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

Hi Barrie, I'm no expert in this so I can't give you 'expert advice, but from my own experience I wouldn't use cement render or vinyl paints if you are suffering damp problems. One thing to consider is that it might purely be condensation caused by a very cold exposed wall and poor ventilation. With my chimney I have used chimney baloons in the fire places and put wind proof cowles on the chimney. This allows good ventillation down the chimney but stops the draught into the house. Sometimes you can seal a house up to much and the moisture will just condense on your coldest walls. Hope that helps a bit. Best of luck with it.

[@vistron888]

Hi Pouse, I want to install channel drain along a wall. Let's say the existing path that I'm cutting into is not leaning towards the final drain point, does it matter that some water will be sat in the channel?

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

Ideally you want the water all to run down to the final drain pot, but if it's just a couple of mm of water then I guess it's whether you're happy with it or not. You may get a bit of splash back when it rains but with the grid on top should be ok. The important thing is that all the water from your path runs into a drain and isn't left standing against your house wall as that's when you'll get the damp problems. Also that the drain is 6 inches below your damp proof or interior floor level if possible. Best of luck.

[@vistron888]

@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE Cheers. It's too much work removing the whole paving and trying to alter the level. At least if the water is in the drain it won't be penetrating the wall. That's my theory. In any other circumstance I would dig it all out.

[@andrewdawson9757]

May I ask why you didn't use the aco drain along the house as well thanks

[@dildobaggins8987]

Aco only moves Surface water or Channels water from a catchment area. In this case, the french drain is the catchment area for the ground water against the house

[@ashamapara]

looks very clever job!!! from someone who is trying to find what is rising damp from high external ground level :P How much does this cost to get it done by an expert?

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

No idea of cost by a professional, this was just my DIY job. Thanks for the feedback.

[@nickstevenson2147]

Quick question. Why did you go with the French drain near the house and not the other type of drain? The other drain has a nicer finish. So just wondering.

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

Hi Nick. I needed the channel drain to take the down pipe from my gutter as I redirected it from another gutter, and to take run off from the path which slopes towards it. I needed to lower the path to prevent the damp from occurring which was caused by rain splash back off the concrete floor. So the french drain was really just a belt and braces thing to ensure that if any water did collect in a heavy downpour, it has a simple route towards the drain rather than lingering before soaking into the ground. As for the appearance, I agree it's a bit shabby but I was doing it on a budget. When I have the time and money I will probably lower the entire path to the level of the chippings and lay a new patio as path. I could use nice decorative chippings then which would be level with the path. Plenty of ways to do it really. The important thing is getting the ground level directly outside your house wall lower than the inside floor level by 6 inches or more. Also try to get any rainwater away from the wall as quickly as possible. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and good luck with your project.

[@nickstevenson2147]

POUSE around the HOUSE thanks for the response. Been watching your videos today. They are great. I have exactly the same issue, so I need to drop the outside floor. But not sure whether to take it down and put chippins in it or use one of those drains with the cover for a nicer finish??

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

@@nickstevenson2147 You only need a channel drain if water is draining into it. So if you path slopes towards the house. But ideally you want all rain water to flow away from a building where possible. Hope that helps.

[@CollosalTrollge]

but that injection stuff , is it really required and it might be expensive to buy right ?

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

I don't think it is required. That's the point of my video. My house had injection damp roof cream before I bought it and the walls were still wet. Personally I don't believe it works, and I think there are simple crude ways to reduce or fix damp problems and I show some of these in my 3 damp videos. If you look in the description section there are links to the other two videos explaining what I did. Hope that helps and thanks for watching!

[@CollosalTrollge]

Okay thanks, im very new to DIY and limited with money , but learning what i can online before i go and buy whatever it is i can afford when i get some money. Thanks for the patience

[@ompk142]

We are having damp problem in our kitchen wall and behind the skirting boards. It's concrete floor. It feels like rising. We are not sure if it Has damp proof sheet in the wall or not. It has damaged our wood floor. Unfortunately previous builder didn't put damp proof sheet under the wood. Now we are thinking to put damp proof sheet under the wood and behind the skirting boards as well. Do you think it's enough. Damp is very very slow. It's not rising any more but it is there. 7_8 inches on the wall.. Can you suggest something.?

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

Really sorry, only just noticed this comment. I would try to lower the ground level outside first. See if that helps. As you say some damproof membrane behind skirting may stop wood from getting wet although it won't stop the damp. Also check your gutter, downpipes and drainage outside in the ground for leaks. Any one of these can cause persistent damp and cold walls. I'd be interested to know how the problem is now and if you've done any work to rectify it. Thanks for watching.

[@ompk142]

@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE Ooo thanks for coming back. We called some local damp proof experts. They all checked with their device that it's coming from the of course floor. But as it was out side wall there was some layer of protection. Which was not visible. So they took off some of the cavity wall front to see and confirm... There was also chance of having some debris there . But it was all clear. Eventually they all suggested to put bitumen solutions on the floor near the wall. Let is dry. Put waterproof sheet over it bit extended even on the wall behind the skirting wall. To be more careful we put floor away from the wall . Roughly 3_4 Inches away. To give it some gap or expanding with the weather or mousture. Covered it with the box. And it is so far quite and under control. It Didn't show any sign of swelling or rising. Finger crossed 🤞. So Bitumen Extended layer of waterproof sheet even on the wall behind skirting boards. And floor was put extra away then normal from the wall. Covered extended gap by wooden box on the top. Hope I made some picture. To imagine the solution we went with.

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

@@ompk142 hopefully it'll stay that way. Thanks for letting me know, great result!

[@Jason-nj6ve]

Just watching your videos as have a similar problem. We have a 1940's ex LA semi with render about 1 inch to 4 inch from block paving. We have damp appearing at the base of a chimney breast. Been told by most people (2 builders & a damp specialist of sorts) it is most likely rising damp. 1 Builder said he thinks creating a channel like you 8 inches from wall about 1 foot down and fill with shingle he also suggests cutting back the render up above the damp proof course which is covering it by about 2 inches. Our ground is a mixture of clay etc.. I think it would be better to install a french drain like you did first before hacking back the render. To compound the issue it seems we have soakaways close to the house! The old style pits not crates. I am thinkinking may need to install a new soakaway too 5 metres from property. It's a nightmare! What are your thoughts please?

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

Hi Jason, I'm no expert, just a problem solving DIYer! But as a general rule you want to get water away from the house. If it was me I'd be getting the soakaways away from the house if possible, reducing ground level, and as you say maybe leave the render for now and see if the problem goes away first before hacking it off. If water is being diverted into soakaways near the house then that is likely to be a problem I guess but unfortunately it's a bit of trial an error. Start with the easiest job and and keep going until it dries out. Hope that helps and best of luck with it.

[@Jason-nj6ve]

Thank you. Well started to dig a trench on one side about a week ago. Then just left it to dry. Which I thought it did. Until it rained like hell this weekend. As the advice was not chimney as it looked fine l hadnt considered checking the chimney too. Anyway this weekend went up only to find a slight trickle of water making its way down the chimney breast in the roof. Also a fair chunk of concrete on the insulation below! Also a trickle on the chimney in the middle of our semi too. The felt is perled back there too. I am rather annoyed that 2 Builders couldn't be bothered to get a ladder out and have a closer look rather than just from the ground! It may if course be a combination of issues, but they will not be getting the work if I can help it.

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

@@Jason-nj6ve nice problem solving. You're doing all the right things. A good inspection especially when raining is a great way to see what's going on. Often the problem is simple and crude, just requires a bit of investigation and and hard graft. Poor lead flashing or lack of lead soakers is a common problem with leaks. Keep up the good work and best of luck with it. Let me know how you get on!

[@Jason-nj6ve]

@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSEWell the Rics surveyor come round yesterday. I managed to get one in for a very reasonable price who was specialised in damp. He spent 2 hours here doing a lot of checks and a lot of readings! Anyway I proudly showed him the chimney and while he said the gable end may need looking at, he wasn't too worried as he sees a lot worse on properties of my age. He would also expect a little rain to get in a considering the amount of rain and wind direction etc. He said he was sure the problem is lower down. He advised me to hack back the internal plaster from well of the ground and leave the trench outside open for a couple of months to dry out more. I had filled the holes after taking skirting off do decorating down to the ground! (no hiding anything) We even had the new laminate up! To take regular readings both inside and outside and record them to see whats happening. As for a drain he thinks our soil is a mix of clay/ sand. He doesn't think we have to have a drain. However when I suggested a concrete 45 degree run along the corner of the foundation and our wall he thought that was a good idea to stop rain sitting on the bottom of the foundation and run it away from the house. We have a block paving driveway anyway so water seeps through to a certain degree as well as runs off. He agreed doing a trench all around the house was a good thing but for now just the affected wall should be a priority and then filled with shingle. He kept saying don't spend too much do the simple and cheap things first. He also mentioned moving the soakaway would not be a bad idea, but thought this was not a cause of the damp due to the run of the ground. Again not a priority. Chimney caps need coming off as too tightly fitted (wrong size) and replace with chimney hood cowls to aid ventilation. Finally if all else fails then check the cavities on the wall take a brick or two out and check for rubble etc and pull it out. I am going to buy an attachment endoscope for my samsung phone to check in cavities if I need to do that. There was more just waiting for the report. For £150 I thought it was good money spent. Can't put a price on good knowledge and experience. He doesn't believe in rising damp and has 40 years in the game. He doesn't like injecting at all. Biggest con out in his words. I liked the fact he wasn't trying to sell me something being independent. I will get the chimney checked by a roofer of course but don't think its major thankfully. He even thought the mouse poo I found everywhere was bat poo as he could crush it in his hand!

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

@@Jason-nj6ve great work. If you look at one of my latest videos - how to stop a draughty chimney, you can see my chimney cowls in combination with a swept chimney, and a chimsoc has been great. I have no damp issues in chimney. Best of luck with it and let me know how you get on.

[@dancudds]

How did you chip out that channel in the concrete?

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

Angle grinder in a line, then an electric concrete breaker. £150 in screwfix. Bargain.

[@TheHuntermj]

Rising damp definitely is real, I've seen water damaged walls all through my town, walls under verandahs and internal walls! Might need a dry climate, high groundwater and high salinity for it to occur?

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

I agree it's real I guess my point is it's often misdiagnosed and therefore an incorrect and often expensive solution is offered when some simple crude options might be more appropriate. Thanks for watching!

[@lazycarper7925]

pouse, did this drain work do you get any damp still??

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

Damp sorted now. The main thing is getting your outside floor level a good 6 inches or more below the inside floor, and avoid cement render if possible.

[@alexschofield5093]

Pouse, if your outside floor is 300mm above your internal floor, does a French drain system completely prevent moisture ingress?

[@TheAudiostud]

Sorry Mr P, couldn't access comments, my question is: If breaking into a sewer network do you need Local Authority Permission? I will need to carry out the same as our house in Pembroke Dock

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

When breaking into any sewer you need to gain permission of the owner, usually either local authority, or more commonly the water supplier but it's different for different countries within the UK. In this example, I was purely diverting surface water from the roof. I originally had all the roof water going around the end of the house in an open gutter and down one gutter (downpipe) to an outside drain. It used to over spill on the corner so I split it into two down pipes on either side of the house so the same amount of water enters the drain but in two locations instead of one. The issue with adding water is capacity. A common problem is people adding surface water to foul sewers which can overload them causing manholes covers to lift in heavy rain. Another issue is putting dirty water (washing machines, sink waste etc) into surface water drains where it often ends up polluting the local stream or river. So always check if in doubt. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!

[@TheAudiostud]

Thank You

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

No problem!

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

No problem!

[@williamsharp7224]

Me personally wouldn't put any drain up to wall just concrete with nice fall-pull old path up

[@jezackr3500]

I know it seen years, but this vid is what I needed. Just so you know raising damp is a thing - capillary action drags water up a porous surface as long as there's water to be dragged up. The solution, however, to is to drain the water (with a French drain for example) , not randomly punch silicone into the bricks =_= Treat the cause, not the symptoms.

[@russelljbriscoe]

I thought it was illegal to put rain water into mains sewers ?

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

My sewer is victorian so is a combined system and that water was already going to the same sewer previously. I split the gutter to stop it travelling around the house so rather than enter the sewer in one place, it now does it in two. If you are adding any additional flow to any sewer you need to contact your water company first. Hope that helps.

[@gerhardtmuller7439]

nice chicken on the lawn

[@ukjay2007]

Illegal. Do not connect either rain water or surface water into a foul drain.

[@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE]

It's already connected to the system on the other side of the house, I just diverted it when upgrading my gutters. It's a victorian house and the system is a combined sewer. I take your point if it were a newer build as clean and foul water are separated in recent years. Thanks for watching.