How To Flash BLHeli via C2 To Your Eachine Falcon 210 ESCs

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This video will show you how to flash BLHeli to the ESCs on your Eachine Falcon 210. The ESCs on the Falcon are not great, but they can be improved by replacing the Flycolor firmware they come with, with BLHeli. In order to do that, you have to flash the ESCs over the C2 interface. The C2 interface is how you program the Silabs chip on the ESC directly, vs. over the signal wire like you usually do it. Once you have flashed BLHeli to the ESCs the first time, you can do it over the signal wire via BLHeli passthrough after that.
If you want to flash BLHeli to any other ESC, the steps are the same, but this video specifically targets the Eachine Falcon 210.

[@iam.miikey]

Josh, thanks for your videos they are very helpful. I'm in the process of reviving my old 250 quad which I have Rotorgeeks esc v2 and cobra motors installed. I will use my uno and straight pin methods and see if that works if not I will solder them on. 4 pin method with the 3.3v on the uno is a great plus.

[@kennp102]

It's nice to know I am not only 1 that has same frustrations working on quads and I call this fun ?

[@asifkagzi6683]

i was updating my esc with blheli and after doing so now i can't start my quad after plugging in battery instantly power will go off and quad will not start and because there is no power now i can't open my quad in blheli, I'm using racestar 4in1 20A esc and watch some videos to flash via arduino nano but for my esc i don't know where is c2 port ,please help me waiting for your reply

[@federicomejiabarajas5445]

My battery is draining super quickly after doing this. Is it normal? Is the new firmware more battery intensive?

[@h2o-fpv623]

Still u r the best my friend.

[@hempeline]

Seen mention that directly supplying 3.3V may damage the voltage regulator on the ESC. I went for soldering the C2 wires and battery power (EF180). ;)

[@JoshuaBardwell]

+hempeline I wasn't aware of that.

[@KyleKillorin]

Wow Josh. Your incredible.

[@JoshuaBardwell]

My incredible what? I couldn't resist.

[@KyleKillorin]

Just blowing a little sunshine. I am just amazed at how much research you are able to do. I spent months almost everyday digging up info. You are always a step ahead it seems. I always wondered about these flycolor esc's and how they could be flashed. I have a programming tool but haven't used it yet. Using passthrough in Cleanflight now... The 16V capacitor is hanging in there. Wish we could hang out sometime.

[@NanoMechs]

@ josh I see what you did there

[@JoshuaBardwell]

+Kyle Killorin thanks. I have a strong background in electronics and programming so I pick this stuff up quickly. If you're going to be around Knoxville let me know.

[@badmofo350]

I seem to remember hearing about using twisted pair data cable for vtx or camera wiring. Have you tried this? I'm getting some noise on my video and thinking about ways to clean it up.

[@JoshuaBardwell]

Twisting will help from externally induced noise but the noise is most likely coming from inside the electrical system, from the ESCs. Add a capacitor. kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZoOzYXmGfNOcosk

[@rolandburrows4859]

Josh, I tried this way and when I connected the battery it says serial interface connected successfully. Connection to esc failed.Please check data and power connections to esc. I loaded arduino 4 way interface to my nano and selected Silabs c2 (4way-if). I am trying to fix a diatonic 202x blheli s esc. any help?

[@JoshuaBardwell]

If you're failing to flash over the C2 interface, then the most likely cause is you have the wires connected wrong or the ESC is not powered up. You have the correct interface selected in BLHeliSuite and the Arduino flashed correctly, so there shouldn't be any software or configuration issue getting in the way.

[@randomwisdom845]

I'm wondering, how bad ESC's feels like? What are the characteristics making an ESC a bad one? For example do they respond slow to controls, add noise to the power line, etc? I have recently built my first quad and I have some different brand spare components I want to try out. So for example where should I concentrate and look for when comparing two ESC's?

[@JoshuaBardwell]

The Fairy ESCs that come on this copter are bad because they respond VERY slowly to throttle changes. This means the PID controller cannot stabilize the copter precisely. Also, they have weak braking performance because they lack dedicated FET drivers. The simplest thing is to buy BLHeli_S ESCs. You can get a set of Racerstar BLHeli_S ESCs for about $11 each. At that price, no reason to buy anything else. There are more expensive ESCs with slightly better performance and durability if you have a bit more money to spend.

[@TheRoesoe]

I tried flashing my ESCs but always get "error writing to the flash" after flashing 40%. After several tries, the first 2 ESCs could be flashed, but I can't get the 3rd one to flash more than 40%. I soldered the cables to the pads, to get a solid connection, and everything seems to be fine, but it doesn't work. Do you have any ideas?

[@JoshuaBardwell]

It's most likely a bad connection. Unfortunately, tracing it down is going to be a hassle.

[@GhostRyderFPV]

After all this effort, the Falcon 210 had better be the best flying quadcopter... In the world. Too bad about the stock ESC's and their accidental demise. It would have been grand to see a before and after, but alas I can't imagine there's much "before" footage to compare to anyway. Having just done the Bootloader pad dance this weekend on an SP-F3-OSD board, I can really sympathize with you and your hemostat dance, and like you, a bad VBat input on the FC I was working had me chasing my tail with what was wrong everywhere but where the problem is (still unfixed). I wonder if an upgrade to BLHeli is possible on another Eachine product, the happy Racer 250, and its ESC's? While heavy, and equipped with spaghetti noodle arms, it's still fun to fly around, and very visible for chasing. I've had one in my fleet for about a year, still original even the arms, and it's been a good trainer for maneuvers I wouldn't be confident in pulling off on more expensive hardware. My next project was going to be upgrading it on a budget, using extra ESCs and an FC pulled off another build, but if I can breath new life into them using this method...

[@JoshuaBardwell]

If it's the Fairy ESCs, they can probably be upgraded.

[@thorimmortal]

I wonder if the Align PR25 will work? (M425033XXW) It looks like the pin out is the same.

[@JoshuaBardwell]

I don't know, but I wouldn't assume so.

[@duayduay1232]

How did You get the Flycolour ESC in Your list, I do not have it and I do not know how.

[@JoshuaBardwell]

Hmmm it was just there.

[@aleccpc8948]

Hello ! Thanks you for the great video ! I tried your tutorial for a ESC DYS XM10A. There are the 4 pads. I used the second one from the left to weld the C2C cable, the third one for the 3,3 V from Arduino Nano & the last one for the ground. The arduino NANO 328 had been flashed with Arduino 4way-interface and 4wArduino_Nano__16_MULTIv16400. I have connected the Esc to flash it, Blheli recognized the arduino but when I want to read it tells : "Serial Interface"m4wANm328P16" connected succesfully. Connexion to ESC#1 failed! Please check data- und power-connections to the ESC! Hint : All interface lines are LOW: ESC seems to be disconnected or not powered up" I have the same when I put out 3.3 V and use the lipo. Do you have any idea about the problem ? Thanks you in advance, AleC

[@JoshuaBardwell]

Are you sure you have soldered the pads the right way around?

[@finalquest]

Hi Joshua. I have been following you since your How To Fly A Quadcopter videos. I'm building my second Quad, and this time I'm reading before doing anything. So this time my questions are about the ESC. Is really that necesary to flash a BlHeli on the ESC?. I had to purchase some Emax nano, that dont come with BlHeli, y I dont know if I want to go whit this whole process. Are the benefits with this firmaware high enough to make all this effort? Thanks. Great channel.

[@JoshuaBardwell]

+Fernado Basello just get an ESC with blheli already on it. When you can get a set of Racerstar blheli_s ESC's for under $40, why buy anything else?

[@youremom3614]

Dude I need some major help. Bought my son a falcon 180 for his birthday, I took the motor spacers off and put the PDB above the baseplate. Now the copter flys squirrelly and has a weird isolation that I can't tune out. I watched your accelerometer/gyro vids and they seem fine, motors are fine.... would reflashing or replacing the ESC's help? My kids pretty bummed his copter sucks, any help would be awesome.

[@JoshuaBardwell]

There are too many things that could be wrong for me to suggest anything specific based on what you've described. Did the copter ever fly well before you made the mods? Do you have video of the oscillation?

[@avalanchesj]

I have the Eachine Falcon 180, 210, and 210 PRO, and from experience i say replace those crappy flycolor fairy 20a esc's on your falcon with a Racerstar 4-in-1 20a esc (or better). They usually cost like $30. It will make your quad feel sooo much more stable and easier to tune.

[@adamlives]

Ever tried using pogo pins soldered to a perf board to flash?

[@JoshuaBardwell]

I haven't. In this case, it won't work because the spacing of the C2 pads is not 0.1mm.

[@richardranney9278]

I bought an eachine 220 HV I plug my FlySky receiver into it for PNP version and I can't get the propellers to turn what can I do

[@JoshuaBardwell]

You need to configure the receiver protocol to be iBus if you are using FlySky. It is probably set to SBUS. In the Betaflight Configuration tab, change the serial receiver protocol to iBus. Then go to the Receiver tab and see if the channels move when you move the sticks on your transmitter. Also, did you bind the recevier to the transmitter? That's also necessary.

[@richardranney9278]

ok well first off thank you for responding so fast.now I can see the remote moving in config but still cant seem to turn motors...im using the speedybee Bluetooth is that ok.is there anyone near Woodstock ga. I can bring it to

[@richardranney9278]

im willing to pay for help via video call

[@richardranney9278]

ok all set thank you for your help

[@RCFlyer85]

So I should be fine using some ribbon cable with male pins right? I need to do something with my Falcon 250 pro. To try this or just get some RacerStars and call it a day?

[@JoshuaBardwell]

+RC Flyer85 may as well try it. It costs you nothing but time. But the Racerstar ESC's are a thousand times better.

[@RCFlyer85]

True... it would be a learning experience. Would this work or do I need an Arduino, this is all I have currently Uxcell a14121000ux0589 CP2102 USB 2.0 to UART TTL 6PIN Module Serial Converter Adapter www.amazon.com/dp/B00SL0U3RG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_29Q8xbJ23PQFY

[@JoshuaBardwell]

+RC Flyer85 I don't think a simple serial adapter will work. I don't know for sure thiughm

[@RCFlyer85]

Hmmm... well I mean I got the quad for free sooo I don't mind spending a little to enhance it 😉

[@fyresg]

RCFyler85, you need a device that has a *C2 interface*. The typical USB serial devices such as FTDI adapters would not work. One way to tell is to look at the specifications of the device; it should indicate GND, C2D and C2CK pins. Another way is to refer to the official BLHeliSuite Programming Adapters documentation for the list of supported C2 programming devices.

[@fyresg]

If interested, here's a video showing how to flash this ESC (with a *C2 toolstick*) and then *enable Damped Light*: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fnyTqoWIhcqhkMU

[@BuddsSkyCam]

is this possible on a BetaFPV FC/ESC v2.1 1s boards??

[@MachuPichuu]

chris budd believe so, mine without rx has two c2 pads near each esc. I bricked one esc so I’ll be trying this tomorrow. Probably have to use the flight controller ground pin.

[@KrotowX]

I'm curious are somebody still use this quad. I guess that with electronics and props replaced to decent ones it would be Ok for newbie training :)

[@magneto_fpv4156]

Can this be done with the new BlHeli Configurator in Chrome?

[@JoshuaBardwell]

I don't believe it supports C2 interface, no.

[@magneto_fpv4156]

I went to update some new escs and 2 of them show a "Flash failed" error in the Blheli Configurator using passthrough. They worked fine until I updated them to 16.65. Any Suggestions on how to get them back?

[@Rene200Y]

Habe you found any solution? Im having the same issue right now :-(

[@alexdalton7290]

Hey I know you do not do rtf quads but have you heard of the jjpro p200/p175

[@JoshuaBardwell]

I totally do RTF quads. The Falcon 210 in this video is an RTF, and I reviewed it. I have heard of that copter. I haven't had the opportunity to look at it though.

[@alexdalton7290]

But have you tried the jjpro p200 or p175?

[@alexdalton7290]

It's an ok quad but it has its corks lol

[@TheRCAddict]

Oh man, back in the dark ages! If it doesn't support pass through I throw it out lol

[@zaplocked]

I flashed 8 or 9 xrotor 20a like this (used a bent pin header like andrey) and it was hell. Spent 30 minutes trying to do it on the 40a and gave up.

[@JoshuaBardwell]

If at all possible, I buy ESCs with the bootloader already on it.

[@zaplocked]

i got the older hobbywing xrotors since they're high performers and super cheap. They didnt have blheli until recently however

[@die_hertz]

Never had a problem touching the pads with a pair of simple header pins

[@JoshuaBardwell]

+Andrey Mironov the spacing wasn't 0.1mm.

[@die_hertz]

I'm using separate slightly bent pins

[@JoshuaBardwell]

Ahh. I guess I figured as long as I was bending them, I'd just use wires, but the stiffer pins would have been useful, as the wires kept bending from the pressure.

[@fyresg]

Yup, I also never had a problem flashing with the pin-touch-pad method for my Eachine Blade 185, Eachine Racer 250, Eachine Falcon 250, and Eachine Falcon 210. That's 3 pads on each of the 4 ESCs, on 4 multirotors.

[@MrPnew1]

@8:55 roach clip :)