How to: Front control arms (Ford Mondeo Mk3), lower suspension arms

Removing and replacing the front suspension control arms on my Ford Mondeo (2002). Generally applicable to all FWD vehicles especially Fords.
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Steering rack & tie-rods: • How to: Replace steeri...
You will need:
Replacement arms and
replacement hardware (ideally), and the locknut for the hydro-bush bolt
1/2" breaker bar with a 12" or 18" extension & various good quality sockets up to 21 mm hex...
...including an 18 mm hex socket (your set might skip this size)
Male torx drive bits with T55 for the pinch bolt and adaptors for ratchets and wrenches
Ratchet handle (convenient)
Hammer & punch
Torque wrench. The 1/2" wrench in the video ~ Amazon US: amzn.to/2g1zGoJ | UK: amzn.to/2gJ7sAg
Wire brush (drill attachment is nice) and cleaner for any re-used hardware
Thread locker
Axle stands, jack, and secondary mechanical jack to support subframe
Beam (e.g. 2x4 wood) to support subframe
(Using the above Amazon links helps support my channel and is appreciated!)

[@CraigsDIY]

The 1/2" wrench in the video ~ Amazon US: amzn.to/2g1zGoJ | UK: amzn.to/2gJ7sAg

[@rockyramsy]

So glad I'm not the only one who thought that replacing that control arm was an utter nightmare because of that awkwardly placed bolt. What were they thinking when they made that. The MK3 is good but the biggest problem in working with that car is that some really basic parts are placed in very awkward places, like the thermostat and the power steering pump. Cheers for uploading Craig. I will try your tips next time I replace the control arm 😅

[@mikedor7987]

I just finished mine, I am not doing that again😂 Thank's for the helpful videos!

[@OddballSherman]

The way you said ‘have fun’ at the end. 😂 As a fellow Mondeo owner I feel your pain. But great video, I’ll be needing new ball joints soon so I know what to look forward to now.

[@Shadowmosesarea51]

Thanks for the great video buddy , I had a nightmare getting my ball joints in a real struggle it is

[@as3cs3]

the trick to getting the balljoint pins in (and out0 of the knuckle is to remember they have to be vertical. If they are tipped over at any angle they will not come out no matter how hard you bang or lever them. When the pin is going in the leg will try to move outwards thereby tipping the pin over. Try to push the leg in as the balljoint pin goes up into it

[@nige1840]

Great Video.. well explained

[@rexbutcher2332]

As mentioned, it is a real "expletive deleted" to get the ball joint back into the knuckle. I don't have a solution but was under the mistaken impression that the male/female would be tapered. It is not, and that is where the difficulty arises. It the pin is at the slightest incorrect angle, it just gets jammed in the socket and will not move. I ended up inserting the ball joint before the hydro bush bolt, then levering to insert the front hinge bolt.

[@as3cs3]

amazing how rust-free this 2002 car is. If it was in UK _every_ fastener would be rusted solid

[@CraigsDIY]

Unsalted roads.

[@therealdojj]

For everyone I know who's changed these they've always put that rear bolt back in upsidedown I've got poly adjustable bushes in mine which gives the steering just a tiny bit sharper Also, the front subframe bolt captive nuts in the chassis have a habit of snapping the welds and then you really are in a world of hurt 🤦

[@CraigsDIY]

I think there are reasons Ford don't put the bolt upside-down. But it will certainly fit that way.

[@therealdojj]

@@CraigsDIY it's more to do with the assembly process where everything is built into the subframe in its entirety and then bolted to the car then anything else You can drop the bolt in from the top to hold everything together and then, when it's in the vehicle, torque the nut with the suspension loaded 👍

[@rockyramsy]

I don't know man, I thought about doing the same but I was warned not to do it that way can't remember why though 😅

[@CraigsDIY]

dojj is probably right about factory assembly, but there might also be issues with getting the correct torque when measuring from the bolt head, because the bolt is so long, difficult to get a torque wrench on the top.

[@hTyKn1]

Anybody have an online source for the replacement locknuts for the hydro-bush bolt or know the size and pitch thread?

[@CraigsDIY]

The Ford # is 1381971, they are available readily and not expensive, just search online or try your favorite source. I suggest you don't use a generic nut because of the metal locking collar - the torque + turn-of-nut tightening specification will not be valid for different nuts (even nylocs).

[@hTyKn1]

@@CraigsDIY Thanks, found some on eBay. Are the bolts stretch bolts?

[@CraigsDIY]

You're supposed to replace the bolts but I don't think you really need to if they're in good condition.

[@hTyKn1]

@@CraigsDIY okay thanks,time to get the spanners out!