How to fully check a Sony PVM M Series - PSU Voltage, CRT Beam, Service Menu & Must Change Caps!

[@Cyanice]

What a treat, I just got my PVM, so this is great timing, thanks for this!

[@itmessenger77]

Me too just bought two 14m2e, one 14m4e, 0ne 2054qm, one bvm9044d, pvm 9044qm, 9042qm, 9045qm, and it is perfect time for such video

[@ultimateman55]

Same.

[@socaranectien1933]

@@itmessenger77 Jesus, you just bought all of those?

[@itmessenger77]

@@socaranectien1933 Yep, around 900 usd for all!!! (in perfect working condition), in Russia.

[@ultimateman55]

Your timing couldn't be better. I just finished recapping the geometry on my PVM yesterday and she seems to be working perfectly. Now I'll be able to do a general health check to determine if any preventative maintenance should be done to keep her running into the future. Thanks!

[@PapiFed]

A few more tips : - while adjusting your settings hit the button of the input you are on to hide/show the OSD. - if you need to recall your last saved settings you can press the reset button twice rather than power cycle.

[@PixelPhoenix]

Probably your biggest video to date! Super informative. Thank you Steve!

[@RetroTechUSA]

Thanks buddy!

[@_kikaso]

Fantastic video, Steve. This is now the go-to video for anyone looking to service their own PVM. thank you!

[@RetroTechUSA]

Thanks Enrique

[@MoparStephen]

I love my Sony PVMs. I have a 14, and 20" as well as two 8" Trinitron CCTV monitors. I just did a full re-alignment (yoke was removed) on a Sony KV-8000, which was an 8" portable from 1977. Hope to keep all thiese going for as long as I can.

[@trashnomancer]

Well, the Mitsu Presentation Monitor vid and now this one... Thank you. I feel much better prepared to start digging into my 37" Mitsu. Exciting!

[@RayLombardo]

I just got a 1954-Q and it has the lines. If I replace the caps it should work, thanks to your video I won’t accidentally die trying to do that

[@milkysharpman7311]

From a previous video of yours, you suggested possibly using jewelers loops for Convergence. I figured I'd try that and ordered a 10x and 30x. Fire up the convergence pattern and whatyaknow. They work pretty well! And super cheap. Now I just gotta learn how to do it on my consumer CRTs. They seem more finicky than the PVMs

[@RetroTechUSA]

Awesome, thanks I totally forgot about that alternative.

[@YourBoyYoshii]

Steve the goat for real I'm gonna be hopefully getting him to service my 1954q

[@bizzie337]

Should that hole where the anode cap plugs into be covered when you are dusting to prevent dust from getting in there? Thanks for another great video Steve.

[@jorgejimenezrazgriz3951]

Your videos are amazing!!! Thanks a lot Steve!!! Greetings from Mexico.

[@br4inChiLd]

I really enjoy watching your videos...unfortunately we don't have u here in germany!

[@RetroTechUSA]

Thanks for watching and greetings

[@FR0MMEL]

Excellent video again! Hope you will do a service video of a JVC DT-V1710CG any time

[@RetroTechUSA]

Nice CRT, I need to find one of those to work on. Thanks

[@kennylauderdale_en]

Captain N the Game Master has that exact model in the intro so now my immersion is broken.

[@RetroTechUSA]

I recently bought that one on eBay. Sony PVM 2030, one of my favorite older PVMs

[@itmessenger77]

@@RetroTechUSA I dont like it, my favourite is 14m4 and 14m2

[@DasAntiNaziBroetchen]

23:00 "The capacitors don't tend to fail" Nonsense. To my knowledge recapping the power supply (and geometry caps) is one of the minimum recaps recommended. And yes, I too talked to Savon Pat about that, so idk what he was smoking when he talked to you. Often monitors get overloaded and shut off (on BVMs), or sometimes act weird on startup. This is due to bad (as in deteriorated, not shorted or open) caps. If you don't believe me, just measure the caps' ESR and capacitance. For example, the two big red capacitors at 23:15 (C603) are always connected in parallel to mains voltage as long as the monitor is plugged into the wall. The power switch is connected after them in the circuit. Therefore these caps get beaten by any power surges present in your electrical system for years, even if the monitor is off.

[@nachobeard]

great video thank you steve

[@RetroTechUSA]

Thanks buddy

[@57Rye]

Say if I didn't feel comfortable discharging the tube just yet, would you be against cleaning the PVM by using a blower vac or an air compressor?

[@RetroTechUSA]

Yes, just make sure to avoid getting moisture in the boards from a air compressor. That should be fine

[@banellone]

Hi RetroTech Steve. Great channel. I have a nice TV Sony Trinitron kv29cl11. It has convergence problem in corners. At center of the CRT picture is sharp, on corners a bit blury. I'd like to hear your opinion on fixing this problem by placing a fridge magnets, ones you pick up as souvenir from a trip, behind the CRT. I got solid circular ones about half an inch in diameter, and rubber-like ones I could cut with scissors. Thanks.

[@Vvewa]

Steve I just bought a couple back up flybacks for a 2 spare rgb sony consumer sets I have. Makes me wonder what people are going to do when the flybacks die on some of these pvm's as I don't see HR diemens have a replacement for a lot of pvms. Even googling the m2 flyback sony part numbers I couldn't find any for sale, so if it dies then your monitor is out of action until you can find a 2nd hand donor one? For the average joe they aren't laying around in scrapyards like car parts. Have you heard of many flybacks dieing on the M2? I am thinking of getting one but seems like a timebomb.

[@keithchua5840]

Hi steve, if the psu voltage doesn't fall within specs, will a recap help? I have a 20m2 which reads 0v, -22v...and lastly 15.3v. The monitor works but not sure if a recap on the psu is necessary

[@neeneko]

So not sure if this thread is still followed, but if it is, I am curious if you noticed if the M series has that protective lens on the front?

[@indrachaudhari7874]

Ummm.. there is one more thing I need to ask you about.. Does the back of the CRT tube (the neck where the gun and the neck board are) glow with light when the TV is turned on? I have a 21 inch SONY consumer CRT.

[@roetsj]

using a wood plank while hammering out a dent is good practice

[@sebastianbier5146]

Just to be very clear since this is the scary part to me: Once the Tube and Anode Cap have been discharged like you described, are all the other parts also safe to touch afterwards? Does the Flyback discharge with the Tube for example? Or are there extra steps to discharge the other components in a crt?

[@petemalogne5219]

diggn that montage music.. like an upbeat pure moods lol

[@RetroTechUSA]

Thanks. Mostly Sonic CD level tracks

[@petemalogne5219]

yea!! playin thru Sonic CD as we speak.. been missin out!! lol.. Mister + Sony KV32FV310👌.. still workin on my 35XBR48.. i do want a pro monitor someday though i love having a large screen.. u can really dial in these "Consumers"... Love ur content.. most would be lost w/out ur guidance and expertise.. thank u for sharing.. you da man!

[@husamsaadghani]

Hi Steve, thanks for your videos, i was wondering if you can advice me on this issue I have a PVM 20M2md with shaky image i replaced the power supply with my 20m4 and it works perfectly fine l, do think recaping the old power supply fix the issue ?

[@dudeguy7347]

This might be a dumb question but on the 240p test suite, are the boxes on the grid pattern supposed to be perfect 1:1 squares or 4:3 rectangles? I always assumed they were supposed to be stretched to perfect 1:1 squares

[@hancho1584]

Hi. I saw your youtube and I am wondering if I can use electric air blower on my ks20fs120 after opening the back to blow out the dust. Just scared to follow discharging and brushing. I just want to clean out some dust

[@VitalikButtring]

In relation to heat, after cleaning all dust from the interior, is it normal for a monitor such as the 14M2 to produce a noticeable amount of heat from the vents when operating under normal conditions?

[@RetroTechUSA]

It can produce a significant amount of heat. That's normal because the hottest spot is on the Power Supply and that sits directly next to the vent holes

[@alexvids9232]

i have the PVM-14M2U. thanks.

[@nosaeuqinu5899]

Hi I have the same monitor. When I turn on , I can see the screen it's kinda green,but, when the monitor "warm up", the color is great. Do you think it's necessary a capacitor replacement?

[@nonplayercharacter596]

I have a 14m4u that has a video issue. The image extends to the top left and right corners accurately, stays straight all the way down to about the bottom fifth of the screen where the width begins to narrow uniformly, making the overall shape of the displayed video look like an upside down gumdrop. Can this be fixed in service menu or is it more likely I'll need to recap? If recap, which board would I need to focus on? I also have a small 9" pvm that only displays black and white over ypbpr, but color via composite. This will also require a board recap?

[@horizonrider508]

Check at 32:05 what does "SEXY" mean in monitor settings?

[@senilyDeluxe]

I got two PVMs here, one has the blanking lines problem (which I solved with the service menu, good to know I now have to change that cap because I can now be sure the problem will soon reappear as the cap gets even worse), the other one has the Tally light of Death. But it's not the power supply! I can swap the PSUs between both monitors. One will power up just fine with both PSUs, the other one is dead with the same symptoms from both PSUs: The 15V line is around 12V and fluctuating (as are some other secondaries). The 115V and 5V are fine (although I measured 380V on the 115V once, but I'm sure that was a grounding issue on my meter). (and I'm not 100% sure if the 5V didn't also drop). Any clue what it could be? (I checked the HOT. No short there) (btw. I've given up on another PVM that blows its HOT. Put a new one in, turn it on, works for 8 seconds and the 15kHz whine sounds perfectly normal, then it suddenly dies and the HOT is shorted completely through) I'm not a monitor expert. Usually I fix logic boards. And I'm pretty good at it too.

[@csabasanta5696]

Hi Steve! While having the color bars on screen you mentioned that if there were distortions on the screen that'd mean the pvm has high hours. Does that mean that the pvm/tube is unsaveable or simply more fault finding and looking for/replacing more bad components ? Also, by distortion do you mean geometry distortion or something else?

[@RetroTechUSA]

I mean like blurry or washed out looking mostly. Like oversaturated with only a moderate amount of brightness and contrast turned up. The tube is really only dead when either a color fails completely or if it has screen burns. Many others can be rejuvenated

[@sleora]

I recently get my hands on a 14M2E PVM and it's working great but, beside the servicing, are there things I need to know about it ?

[@RetroTechUSA]

There is lots more specific info in the service manual that may be helpful. Google your model and see if you can find a free PDF.

[@MonguzTea]

Are those caps the same on 20M2? I got one with the blanking problem for $10.

[@Charlie-Cat.]

Just in time. I got my soda pop and popcorn to enjoy this video from you Steve. Now to be educated even further my the master himself. 8^) Anthony..

[@RetroTechUSA]

Thanks Anthony.

[@TheBooleano]

Steve hello! Please could you post your values of d93 colour settings from your 14m4 please? I have now default falues and I would like to improve colour if it's possible. Values are 73 to 77 from service menú... Thanks for all!! A greeting friend

[@PapiFed]

Vertical linearity looks a little off at 8:08, top circles are stretched in their superior area, is this as good as it is possible to get ?

[@RetroTechUSA]

That was before any adjustments to linearity. It was off a bit. I made the adjustments towards the end.

[@PapiFed]

@@RetroTechUSA Was wondering because despite the recap I made to geometry caps on my 2053 I cannot get rid of a similar vertical linearity situation... not sure what to try next... any advice ? 😊

[@RetroTechUSA]

It's tougher on that one since there are a limited anount of geometry controls. Other than the using the available adjustment pots, you could try reseating your yoke against the back of the tube or maybe even adding convergence strips. Also since it's a much bigger screen, it will have more geometric anomalies

[@PapiFed]

@@RetroTechUSA are you not confusing with another monitor? The 2053 has the same menu and settings as the pvm shown here 😊

[@RetroTechUSA]

Sorry, you are right. I thought you typed 2530, lol. Sorry about that.

[@TheBooleano]

Hello from Spain! Please could you post your colour settings please?? Thanks for all in advance!! A greeting

[@Huddy40]

I have a 14m2u that has a pincushion issue that disappears after warming up for around a minute. Any ideas on what caps affect geometry/pincushion? Great video btw!

[@RetroTechUSA]

Thanks, you could try the M2U capkit and it may help.

[@kingarthur7255]

I just got this exact model it’s my first pvm paid $200 for it it’s a 1997 date 14m2u I’d say it’s in better condition than this was before you worked your magic it has a great picture but the geometry isn’t perfect the image is tilted clockwise slightly and under scanned slightly so there’s a sliver of black in the top left and bottom right corner what do I have to do to fix this? I’m using it for snes, n64 and Wii also do you have a cap kit for sale? Please get back with me! I want this thing to last! Also thanks for these videos!!!!

[@We_silly]

I kind which I got a pvm with a degauss switch

[@petermay3468]

Top Video.

[@RetroTechUSA]

Thanks

[@battousai0083]

Hello at my job they were chunking a 15 inch Pvm 1341 and I took it off there hands I have turned it on and I can hear the normal sounds of a crt but really no indication the screen comes on is this because there is nothing being fed into it ...before I bougg the adapters to plug a system I was just wanted to make sure

[@RetroTechUSA]

Thats normal. You need to send something into that PVM. There are no menus etc. On that PVM

[@robertmarley7975]

250v 1uf ? That’s what you recommend for the second one right? And the first one is 10uf 160v

[@armkonninko1602]

Hi @Retro Tech i have question, i have PVM model 1440qm that have problem with bleeding red colour, i seen that it can be foault of the C board and resistor/diodes/or transistors in red line, i have change all transistors for this line but that don't help me (it's the same), i check the 8k2 resistor but it show me 8k19 so it's look good, where more can i search for the part that is bad?

[@RetroTechUSA]

Could be a bad tube. Best to test voltage on the red line or use an oscilloscope and refer to the service manual for the designed specs. If the current on red is within spec, then the tube is worn out and needs replacing or rejuvenating. Good luck

[@RetroTechUSA]

Just to clarify, when I say red line I mean to check the current rail/path on the circuit board that has the red coming along it until it gets to the tube on the neck board

[@armkonninko1602]

@@RetroTechUSA Ok, i will try to measure everything then look on diodes and resistors on C board because i have swap all of the red line, the problem look just like this one kzbin.info/www/bejne/jajMd6d7Ypqkm9U . Red is on top of everything and when i give TV a signal i have normal screen but the fonts bleed with red a little bit.

[@armkonninko1602]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/oXzTY2iKnLJ2nJY that's the one that i try to repair.

[@agusmex4518]

Hola tengo dos pvm 8045Q y cuando encienden emiten un pitido que solo mis hijos pequeños lo perciben y les molesta, como puedo repararlo? Gracias !,

[@agusmex4518]

Pueden ayudarme? Por favor

[@brianbloom1799]

Hi retro tech, Could you Please help Me, I know this Video ,is a year old but hope you see My comment, I own a 1986 Sony Trinitron model PVM 1271q, My Crt is not lighting up, I know nothing about tv ,s but I do have some knowledge of older Tube sets, Some what, But very little, ,The element is not Lighting up, But I have Power at Most Pins, How can I try and Power up The element, With separate power, just to see if it lights Up, What Pins would I use, I need this for my security System. Thank you For any Help Brian

[@plumbnebula5741]

good now i just need a pvm

[@plumbnebula5741]

finally got one

[@drewe9163]

I just got a PVM and the seller didn't pack it well and it likely dropped during shipping. It showed up and the Shadow Mask is broken so one corner of the screen is discolored. The seller isn't wanting to take it back so I'm having to deal with that at the moment. It's frustrating.

[@RetroTechUSA]

That's tuff. Sorry. If you bought it off eBay, just stand your ground and demand a full refund. It may take a week or two, but they will back you up eventually

[@ROX99]

Whene I power on my monitor it make a noise (zzzzz) what’s the problem ? Is it the PSU ? and how can I repare it

[@RetroTechUSA]

Try the voltage test I show in the video 1st

[@drawnfix_5837]

I just don’t get how an eBay seller with actual “eBay” tape would ship something so fragile so poorly...just boggles my mind how sellers on that platform just don’t care. Hope you represented that in negative feedback. He/she deserved it for sure

[@ps3customgamer]

didnt even use compressed air lol

[@alexvids9232]

it blows my mind how careless you are with disassembly and discharge. you kept putting your finger right next to the discharge point and the hole on the tube.

[@RetroTechUSA]

Cool.