How to get your vehicle to high mileage|| 500,000 is not as easy as you think!

ASE Master Tech explains his appreciation for high mileage success (and how to get there), as fiscally responsible as possible.

[@doublebase6509]

Couple things: I forgot the air filter. Inspect it every 20k or so, expecting a change between 30,000-40,000, but that depends on where you live too (dirt roads change things). Cabin air filter, change it every year. Fuel injector cleaners, throttle body cleaners, engine cleaners/flushes…hey, if it makes you feel good do it. I have seen very little results from any of them but like I said, if it makes you feel good do it. That’s half the battle when going 300,000-500,000 - you have to stay engaged and interested in the car - if not you’ll come up way short. Vacuum the interior, if you don’t you’ll end up grinding a whole through the carpet when all the abrasives are stuck in the fibers. Polish your headlights, it’s easy, it’s cheap. Spray silicone on your axle boots, it’s supposed to prevent them from tearing. Does it work? Who knows but it’s so easy and quick to do and costs almost nothing.

[@MichaelE6300]

Hi from Europe! Great video, really good tipps! I will add to that the following: Keep your car clean, especially in the winter months. You've talked about salt and such, we have that here in Europe (Germany to be exact) too. It is really shitty to a car. Therefore: Clean, maintain and clean also the tire housings. A car wash is not enough, do it carefully with a pressure washer (on the lower levels, keep your distance to not destroy tires, paint and such). Additionally: Keep your car clean with the right tools and shampoos. Not regular dish washer or what you use in your kitchen - dont do that! Invest in some good products like Chemical Guys or what you have in your country available. Here in Germany for example KochChemie, Dodo Juice ... anything like that is better than some cheap discounter stuff and will not destroy your paint, clear coating or such. Furher: Add a PPF to that car (2k costs) to preserve your car even better (depends on where you live) or do a ceramic sealing on top of it (I love Nanolex products, easy to apply). If you dont have a clue how to apply, ask your detailer in your nearby area. Most of this should be applied in the early stages of your car ownership, but can also done with some kilometers / miles on the clock. And lastly: Don't make yourself crazy about the car or some mechanic that will tell you eventually that your car is totaled because of a generator or some laughable thing. :) Keep yourself informed!

[@doublebase6509]

@@MichaelE6300excellent post! I’ll add…rinse the front of the radiator and condenser off as often as you can in the winter. Get that salt out! Prolong the life of those components. I used to rinse the bottom of my cars off frequently but someone mentioned that if you do that with the fluid film you’re only going to rinse the fluid film off. I’ve tried the last two years of NOT doing undercarriage rinses and it has worked out pretty good, but it feels really weird to not rinse that undercarriage when I know it’s covered in salt. But the wheel wells I still rinse. I’ll also coat my oil pan with white lithium grease when I do an oil change…just smear it on that metal (haven’t lost a pan yet). I’ll also touch up the higher traffic areas underneath with the grease.

[@MichaelE6300]

@@doublebase6509 Great stuff! Some more tipps that I remembered: Topic wash off the fluid film / rust protection is one of the things I remember vividly. My friend contacted me some day to help him clean his oldtimer before the winter months and thus the oldie going in hibernation. My friend asked if the undercarriage should be cleaned - after searching and contacting some of my detailer friends and detailer shops it was clear that not only fluid film wash off your car but also (eg if you have a brand new one!) the wax / protection applied from the factory (many car maker will do some sort of work in this direction). Further do not wash the engine bay or let professionals do that! Electronics and sensitive stuff could be easily damaged and destroyed. Further do not wash the engine bay and only do it if it is really necessary. E.g. you need to find a drip or such and your engine is greasy. Otherwise the grease (that could help protect your engine too!) or (if brand new) some protection from the factory could wash off (e.g. the hoses have, for example, a protection layer to keep the rubber elastic (to protect the plasticizer) The radiator / condenser is a really good tipp! I will add on top of that: Please only rinse and don't do that with a pressure washer. You could otherwise pinch your radiator / condenser easily (water is a powerful weapon, especially high pressure water!). After the wash near the engine bay apply some form of engine dressing (for example here in Germany some good protection is Koch Chemie MotorPlast). That is important also for the next tipp that I nearly forgot: Especially when you have a sunroof, to protect that from leaks clean your draining pipes from the car (mostly left and right in the engine bay in a seperate compartment near the windscreen wipers) with a good flush of water. If that gumps up, you are most probably in trouble (interior wet (mostly foot area), leakage from the sunroof etc.). You don't want any mold in your car! I have a old Audi A6 from 1997 from my deceased grandfather that I keep alive as a second car but unfortunately with mold (due to the sunroof and the drainage was not cleaned regulary) it is really damp in the interior and not a good clean air in the interior. I have planned to fight that mold with some cleaning tools and a steam cleaner. It is really nasty and unhygenic too. Keep water out of your car at any cost! Last thing for this post: If you have cleaned the mold out of your car trash your cabin filter and clean the pipes / housing of the cabin filter as good as you can.

[@doublebase6509]

@@MichaelE6300try an ozone generator on the interior, it will eliminate oxygen and kill that mold. These things are strong and you have to be careful using them, but they work. It’s funny you mention engine oil leaks and how it prevents rust. You’re 100% right! And it has saved many oil pans throughout the years. Speaking from experience

[@lexi-conby]

Great tips! I have 335k on my 2001 xterra. A coolant leak from the heater hose caused an overheat event and i have a slightly warped head. I also have a 97 supra with 195k. Both cars were bought brand new. Drove all those miles over the decades. Original powertrain. I do all my own repairs. A few things you left out. Power steering fluid, differential oil, fuel filter every 30-50k depending. Gearbox oil instead of tranny oil if stick shift. Because I do all my own repairs and get parts feom oreilly and autozone, all of my parts have lifetime warranty. About to take the heads off the xterra and replace the head gasket and take them to a machine shop

[@rajendraprasadpatil]

A trustable mechanic is the key to high mileage car. Hands down.

[@doublebase6509]

Absolutely invaluable! Agree 100%

[@efil4kizum]

those types pretty much No Longer Exist...

[@OtherDalfite]

​@@efil4kizumthey do, they're just booked and charge for their time.

[@user-ut9ov8xm4m]

@@OtherDalfiteeveryone charges high and does subpar work. A good mechanic is super hard to come by and usually word of mouth.

[@doublebase6509]

@@user-ut9ov8xm4m I really don’t know who or how to go about hiring anyone for anything anymore. I just waited a month for my dentist to do a dental crown. Four days after the procedure and I’m still in pain - tried calling today for a follow-up and they’re closed. Closed on a Monday?? Saturday, Sunday Monday…closed.

[@vintagehaynesflute]

I’ve been a Mercedes guy for years. My maintenance schedule was from a friend who is a Mercedes technician. OLF 5,000 miles Transmission fluid 35,000 Brake fluid 3 years Spark plugs 35,000 Engine and cabin filter 30,000 Timing chain 95,000 Serpentine Belt 95,000 Water pump and hoses 100,000 I know this seems excessive but every Mercedes I’ve ever had over 30 years has lasted at least 250,000 miles and two diesels that made it to 575,000 miles (I drive a LOT!)

[@doublebase6509]

I’ve done all that except the water pump and timing chain, and god willing I’ll never have to do the timing chain. Glad you’ve had good luck with yours, the little things are taking its toll on me unfortunately. Not sure what I’m going to do with this thing…sell it or keep it. I’ve been offered next to nothing for it on Carmax ($2,600 bucks). I’ll donate it before I do that. I may just keep it, cross my fingers and try to get some mileage out of it. It drives nice.

[@mtcru]

MB W202 1997, my timing chain at 300,000 miles by checking was OK, but for safety reason, I decide to replace it.

[@doublebase6509]

@@mtcru ok got it. Probably a good idea.

[@VictorMaxol]

All that except hoses, they really seem perfect (Honda).

[@hellocar123]

yeah they need a bit of maintenance and they will last forever. they are higher end vehicles that demand higher end treatment which makes perfect sense. so many people just think they can neglect it and not maintain it and expect it to keep going. not the cars fault at all, totally 100% the owners fault

[@chrissikora8097]

402k miles on my 2004 camry 4 cylinder. Only needed to change fluids, brakes, sway bar links, 1 inner tierod, rear wheel bearings and rear shocks. A few oxygen sensors, spark plugs, burns ALOT of oil, but runs great!

[@doublebase6509]

That’s awesome! I want to say those four cylinders are known for oil consumption (could be wrong), but keep it going! Imagine you could get another 100k out of that thing if you keep up with adding oil. Still beats a car payment.

[@7SUK1]

​@@doublebase6509 Usually with Toyota's, they start burning oil as they age and that's probably just old car stuff but some early 2000s Toyota's were equipped with the 2az-Fe engines and those would start burning oil under 100k. Still runs forever though if you keep it topped off and maintain it.

[@doublebase6509]

@@7SUK1 yes, I remember those issues with those engines. Truthfully they’re certainly not alone, but you’re right, they still usually can go forever with the oil consumption until it gets so bad that you’re ruining cats and losing enough compression that you have a dead cylinder or check engine light that won’t allow you to get an inspection sticker. I had an oil burner once, a Lexus LS 460…plugs would get pretty soaked but no misfire. The intake would pool up with oil from all the blow by past the PCV system, but it ran fine. A lot of blue smoke when I floored it and upon startup (valve guides were shot), and my rings. Bad design on the early model LS 460’s but I bet I could have driven that thing another 100,000 miles easy.

[@jessesteller1661]

Lies theres more to it that he aint tellin us 😂😅

[@doublebase6509]

@@jessesteller1661 🤣🤣🤣. Well, at least he told us tie rods, wheel bearings, shocks, O2 sensors and now it’s consuming oil. Most would say…wiper blades, that’s it. 😂

[@sana-cm7oc]

Excellent Video! Summary: 1. 100k miles - change coolant fluids on spill and fill (drain reservoir and radiator not the block) then every 50k thereafter 2. Every 100k miles - change water pump 3. Every 5k miles - change oil and oil filter 4. Every 50k miles - change transmission fluid, change transmission fluid every 100k miles 5. Every 100k miles - serpentine belt and/or timing belt 6. Every 100k miles - change spark plugs 7. Every 3 years - change brake fluid 8. Every 200k - change hoses 9. Every 1 year - Fluid Film, Krown or NH Oil Undercoating. Wet treatments for under car. Wool wax or lanolin based product. to protect against salt. Then drive down dirt road to get the dust to bond to the underside. 10. Every 150k - struts, sway bar links, alignment. ($1200 parts and labor) 11. Every 30k - change air filter 12. Every 1 year - change cabin air filter 13. Every 1 year - inspect exhaust (take it to an exhaust shop) 14. Every 6 months - weather stripping - spray with silicone treatment 15. Every 3 months - wax the paint 16. Small Failures: valve cover leaks, coil failures, intake manifold leaks, throttle positioning sensor, mass airflow sensor, ECM failure, ABS pump failure, valve timing (click and tick), wheel bearing failure, ABS sensor failure, axel failure, caliper failure 17. Big Failures: transmission ($4k parts and labor)

[@doublebase6509]

I should have you write for me, you just summarized everything to a T. Nice job!

[@sana-cm7oc]

@@doublebase6509 🙂

[@ibiro868]

One of the best videos on KZbin on this topic

[@J_S209]

Oh what a feeling TOYOTA! Regular oil changes and coolant changes. Spill and fill is the way to go with radiators, flushing creates problems, you just want to stuff out before it turns nasty. Oh, trans,diff and power steering too, fuel filters are way cheaper than fuel pumps. Great advice mate! 👍

[@efil4kizum]

do radiator drain and fill if easy access to drain petcock Once Per Year... Toyota Pink is not much if on sale 15$ and might take a gallon, some Toyotas take 2 gallons on Pink

[@2seep]

Fuel pump goes out if you floor it at less than a quarter of a tank.

[@efil4kizum]

@@18_rabbit I see! Well certainly if you go to pay the monkey shop 300$ or however much it is, it is ok to wait LOL.

[@Prosecute-fauci]

You can’t change Toyota fuel filters any longer.

[@averyalexander2303]

Great tips! Since you love high mileage stories, you might like to hear about my 1997 Civic with 357K miles. Not that high, but getting up there. The body is clean and rust free and It's still on the original engine and transmission, but I bought it for $200 at 353K because the previous owner severely overheated it repeatedly and blew the head gasket. A few hundred dollars later for new hoses, gaskets, belts, spark plugs, cap, rotor, fluids, filters, etc, a bit of time to pull the engine and refresh it, and it runs as good as new. It doesn't seem like it needed many repairs at all either. The radiator and radio were replaced and I replaced the outer tie rod ends because they were loose, but that's all I can see other than the expected wear items. The starter, alternator, AC system, power steering pump, sensors, wheel bearings, etc are all original as far as I can tell with no signs of trouble. All the suspension is original and it still drives well, but I'm going to do a full rebuild soon while I can still get quality parts because it has the very occasional minor pop or squeak over certain kinds of bumps. Other than that and faded paint, a few dings, damaged headliner, and a couple other little cosmetic issues that eventually need to be fixed, it's in amazing shape and seems like it should be good to go for many more years. I'm never going to get rid of it, I'll just fix whatever issues come up, take great care of it, and keep going!

[@doublebase6509]

I love stories like this! Glad to hear you did all that work, and you’re going to rebuild the suspension and keep this thing a long time! Inspiration for me to keep mine going a long time.

[@FlixZ]

I’m at 327k with my crv and no signs of slowing down😂

[@doublebase6509]

Love it! Great great vehicle to do that in! I own a 2008 with 195,000 miles. Not one single out of pocket repair. Just oil changes, tranny fluid changes, plugs, filters, diffs, coolant changes. Unreal. Have you done any repairs in yours? The CRV 2007-2010 are one of the most reliable vehicles on the road. And I love the look of the new ones.

[@alejandromorazan3420]

Have you had any pulley or belt tentioner issues? My 06 civic EX has auto tentioner and pulley issues​@@doublebase6509

[@doublebase6509]

I haven’t any issue with my tensioner. Knock on wood.

[@akm8010]

What year is it?

[@StefanoWeston]

@@doublebase6509 Any advice on how often to change auto transmission fluid on a 6th Gen Honda Accord?

[@rickm8456]

190k on my 2010 RAV4 V6. Same engine as your Camry. I’ve been doing an oil analysis the past few changes and it’s running great. It’s still a powerful engine and is a great highway cruiser. I’d love to get another few years out of it. It’s saving me so much money with no car payments and it’s still a nice car.

[@doublebase6509]

I love the engines in these things! I’m hoping to see if I can get it to 500k, but tha a long way away. At 150k now. I usually drive 25,000 a year

[@rickm8456]

@@doublebase6509 they are great engines. I’m hanging onto my V6 for as long as I can since they seem to be going away.

[@LightSkinBadiee]

09 highlander same engine got the vvti rattle at 160,000 now at 240,000 still runs smooth

[@igo470]

I'm mechanic my self and I agree with every single thing you said in this video....Hello from Maine

[@doublebase6509]

Thanks!

[@Speedysnail9999]

This video got suggested out of nowhere, but man am I glad I watched it. Many good points, biggest thing is finding an honest mechanic to send your car to, they are the tool to years of reliability and success getting to 500k. Acquired an ‘05 Camry as my 1st car in 2017 that already was badly neglected despite only 90k miles, relatives are surprised I’ve gotten it to 170k now, all about maintenance. Personally working towards 200k then we’ll see how she fares. Also for those that don’t really drive as much, I feel like you may want to look at time then compared to mileage. Picked up a 1st gen Miata a few years ago that I only put 2k miles a year on, but it seems to act happy with oil changes exactly every year and other fluid changes every other.

[@doublebase6509]

Good stuff! Nice work on that Camry! And good points on age vs mileage, that’s a whole other segment to think about…sometimes that’s more detrimental to a vehicle than driving them.

[@00700556]

2008 Mercedes CLS 550 AMG. 238,000 miles on original timing chain, engine, and tranny. Replaced- Water pump, AC clutch, belt, pulleys, some air struts, trans and motor mounts, drive axle flex disks- car still drives like new until this day. I love it I also have a Corolla 2007 at 285k miles and a 2013 F250 6.2 at 273,000 lol

[@NOOTSMAZDAS]

My grandma's 97 toyota corolla is about to hit 400k original head gasket and original trans going strong!

[@efil4kizum]

NiCE! got a 96 Corolla here with 137k most all city short miles over the past 28 years... it has done battle with the winter salt monster 8^{

[@MrOiram46]

@@efil4kizumThat’s a lot of wear and tear, short city miles are brutal for cars on top of winter and road salt

[@efil4kizum]

@@MrOiram46 Yes indeed... brake lines burst from salted rott, fuel tank started leaking from the top from the salt, fuel filler neck started leaking from the salted rott. shop wanted MORE THAN 2000$ to fix the fuel lines... I bot new OEM fuel lines and aftermarket neck and tank and dismantled in the driveway to DIY these repairs

[@doublebase6509]

@@efil4kizum salt is the number one show stopper when trying to reach high miles. It has stopped me before. I owned a Honda Accord, tried getting it to above 300,000…it ended around 300,000. Replaced the fuel tank (rotted), the fuel lines, the brake lines (twice), and then the fuel lines again. I also had to replace the front subframe…after all this^^^it started Halle in again and I called it quits because at that point the engine was drinking oil (1 quart every 500 miles), and the car would stall at Idle speeds. I now fluid film/NH oil Undercoating/white lithium grease/or someone mentioned a WoolWax heavy duty wheel well application (going to try it). And the $2,000 dollar repair for the brake lines is high, but those are terrible jobs to do for techs. Every tech I know hates doing brake lines…the fluid is falling all over you, a fitting is leaking, a bend is wrong, something else rusted breaks under there. They are a time consuming pain, but $2,000 does sound ridiculous. Sounds like they priced it high because they didn’t want to do it.

[@abyssalsoul6216]

228k miles on my 06 Toyota Sienna with the 3MZ-FE engine, one of Toyotas finest engines. The only "downside" is that it has a timing belt which I personally changed on the second go at 168 k miles. Next is due next year (2025) . I do my own maintenance and that is key, not just what is required but also preventative. Join a forum folks and keep engaging with your vehicle. Sad to say though only a small percentage of the population are doing so.

[@doublebase6509]

Nice work! I’ve done a few of those timing belts myself! That engine is a legend for reliability.

[@Matty4t4]

Just found your channel /video and it's right up my alley! I have a 2009 Ford focus SES going on 286,000 mi Use full synthetic oil since day one and every single oil change As soon as something goes bad I get it fixed right away I'm on a mission to try and get 400,000 out of it Thank you for the great video!

[@doublebase6509]

Good luck! You’re on your way! 286,000 is quite an accomplishment. Keep going. Thanks.

[@SplosionMovies]

I bought an 05 Accord at 220,000 miles from its original owner! It needed a few repairs like a transmission filter & a valve adjustment, but I took it to 260,000 before selling it. I want it back lol

[@JSinM]

We have the "hell caddy" 2008 cts with the evil 3.6l (ergo one of the worst to buy). I've pretty much taken care of it almost lockstep with your recommendations, and with luck on my side, I have over 300k without any surprises. The man speaks the truth about doing the simple stuff consistently. 👍 Great job on the video and good info that everyone should hear.

[@doublebase6509]

I have definitely heard about those caddy’s. You’ve done a great job with that thing!

[@sjnavaid]

just hit 16k miles on my 5MT impreza base. this is actually very helpful for future reference!

[@pamelavance648]

Change the oil often.. 30 yrs 210,000 miles

[@XenomorphLV426]

I don't see many high mileage Imprezas

[@ralphgillis6457]

Engine in my ‘13 Impreza died at 115k miles, with a 4k oil change interval. Good luck!

[@jameswhite1319]

Got 220,000 on my Toyota Corolla le ! I been doing everything you have said! Awesome video thanks for sharing! Houston Texas

[@doublebase6509]

Thank you! Those Corolla’s are made for driving. Keep it up! What year Corolla?

[@efil4kizum]

@@doublebase6509 gen7 Corolla here... '96 had for 28 years in the western salt belt... it only has 137k mostly all city short miles... winter salt monster got to the fuel tank and fuel lines... + brake lines a decade ago

[@AAB371]

Mechanic here. All my vehicles are old but have original engines and transmissions. Just normal maintenance. 97 Honda Accord LX 256000 99 Jeep Cherokee 285000 2007 Camry XLE,V6 258000 2002 Honda CRV 295000 98 Chevy C1500 139000, low miles, my late Father who bought new I rebuilt/repaired AC in the 99 Jeep and 98 Chevy C1500 about 10 years ago. AC ice cold These are all Southern cars that stay in the south

[@doublebase6509]

I can tell you’re a tech, you picked all great vehicles to go a lot of miles in. And you have a lot of cars you have to take care of. Haha

[@dartagnan1954]

You picked all the good cars

[@iank6897]

@@dartagnan1954I've heard very poor things about Jeeps and Chevys in general. Maybe just the newer stuff?

[@Mauser1965]

@@iank6897 Well, learning the truth by watching and being informed. For example, putting aluminum heads on an iron block is trouble due to expansion rates as they will blow head gaskets. i.e. 3 liter 4Runner But then each make has their own quirks, but it's mostly about the owner and how they drive it. There's a reason while forums are still big compared to Facebook pretend groups as they can be searched and provide a organized format. I easily tire of idiots who want diagnostics via video as one actually has to know something and have the tools to perform them. My vehicle doesn't even have ODBII. So some "tech's" are lost as they are dependent on it.

[@user-um6lh7bc1w]

Very practical and accurate video. Perhaps the issue with rust - maybe get a Volvo. Rarely seen an aged Volvo with a serious rust issue, besides those seriously neglected and those you generally want to avoid anyways. Also older D5 engines are quite reliable and don't really demand a lot of maintenance. I would though concentrate on the automatic transmissions as they have some issues. Besides that - without rust and major components issues, older Volvos are quite reliable and don't crush your wallet. Disclaimer - not a brand fanatic, but current Volvo driver and my Volvo safed me quite a bit of money over the years. The community is also great and supportive. Cheers and safe travels!

[@doublebase6509]

Thanks for the comment. Now, that I think of it you’re right…I don’t think I’ve ever seen a rotted out Volvo, or a BMW for that matter. Volvo has a high mileage club and it’s pretty impressive how much their owners/community love the brand. They are nice cars.

[@efromc1]

180,000 on my 2010 Infinite G37x Coupe ,change oil every 3,000 miles,replaced the Radiator, Fuel pump and Alternator as a percussion, doesn't burn runs great!

[@bastogne315]

I love the flash cards. Beautiful ❤

[@ghostwrench2292]

I, too, am a mechanic who loves high mileage, well cared for cars and I have 3 of them: 2 Volvo's and a Mini Cooper. I do not drive enough to hit 500k miles on any of my cars, in fact, I'll be lucky to hit 200k in my 2003 Mini Cooper that I've owned since new. It has 174k miles on it now. The Volvo's have 158k miles and 170k miles on them. The thing I like about Volvo is their service schedule pretty much lays out mileage/time intervals for everything - filters, spark plugs, belts and fluids (including brake fluid but not transmission oil) so I simply stick to that and also apply it to my Mini. I am also a DIY detailer - it's relaxing for me to clean my cars, so I keep them clean, shiny and waxed. I live in Phoenix, AZ with the unrelenting sunshine and my Mini lives outside, so to keep the paint protected, I have been fanatical about keeping wax on the paint, so each car gets wax at least 4 times a year. A few things about your video: you probably misspoke when talking about timing belts breaking. You said engine damage results if the belt breaks in a non-interference engine but it is the interference engine that will have piston to valve contact if the belt breaks. A non-interference engine will not have have any consequences if the timing drive system fails. Regarding hoses. As an owner who had at small hose split on my Mini Cooper at about 15 years of age (about 140k miles) and then a plastic coolant tee break open 2 years ago (resulting in warped head), I prefer ALL my hoses and plastic cooling system parts replaced by 12 years old. My Mini survived the first overheat occurrence when that small water pump hose split open, but the broken tee ended up with me replacing the engine and the entire cooling system except heater core. The shop where I work often has me replace upper/lower radiator hoses when I replace a radiator and I always shake my head thinking it's sort of false comfort to unknowing customers because there are other hoses in the cooling system that can fail. On struts, I feel 100k-120k is a good interval or if they leak, whichever is sooner. I love a well sorted suspension. It really makes the drive so much more enjoyable when the car rides smooth and tight. I know in your video, you were going for keeping costs down. When it comes to my personal cars, I sort of go all in when something needs repair. Loose tie rod? Inner and outer tie rods on both sides. Strut mount worn? New struts, mounts and bearings on the axle or preferably, at all 4 corners. I like to align my cars every year and my tires have worn perfectly on that regimen. I like your style and have subcribed to your channel.

[@doublebase6509]

You’re right, I misspoke on the interference engine part but let me ask you, have you heard of non-interference engines having catastrophic damage when the belt goes? I have, but I haven’t seen it personally. I’ve heard valves can still bend even with clearance because of the lack of timing and unexpected speed of the belt breaking. No idea. Thanks for the comment, love hearing high mileage stories. And you’re right, age is a factor with the hoses as well…and there are plenty of other little hoses that could fail (or clamps, usually it’s the clamps). The throttle body hoses can leak, seem that many times. I experiment quite a bit with my maintenance routines, usually adhere to 5,000 mile oil changes but I’ve experimented to 10,000 on this Toyota simply because it’s non direct injected, non turbo, etc. Not sure how much longer I’ll experiment but the used oil analysis reports have been fantastic. But it goes against my maintenance beliefs a bit as well.

[@lotsoftorque3632]

Volvos are the way to go! I have 3 of them. The older ones are some of the most reliable cars ever built for sure.

[@expertgaming1002]

Cool! I am from Phoenix, AZ as well. Well now I just moved to South Carolina, few months ago.. but born and raised in Phoenix, AZ. I have an 08 S80 3.2 as well. I got it as my first car. 17 years old in 2021. Paid $7200+ tax with 89k miles. Clean title no accidents. The engine has been great, however the rest of the car is a different story. We have been fighting a vibration in the steering wheel that will not go away, we replaced the wheels, tires, front struts. Unfortunately, I got ripped off. Please be careful and use quality parts! I didn't need struts or any of this work! In a rare circumstance, I did lots of driving from work and back to my mom's house as my mom lived in Phoenix and my dad lived in Gilbert. I did lots of commuting. Majority of the servicing we did at Volvo Cars Arrowhead in Phoenix/Peoria off Loop 101. I love my S80 very much, and I named her Lola. She saved my life on the I-17 back in 2022, in a rear end collision. The car got fixed and still drives well. I have a strong emotional attachment and will never get rid of it. I have spent about $10 to $12 thousand in repairs over the 3 years of ownership. Including a brand new transmission from Volvo that costed 7 grand. I believe it went kaput do the the collision. My Volvo is still not fully sorted and needs the entire suspension. It sits in my garage until I have the funds. Right now I drive a 2020 Camry, which I bought myself and put $12,000 down. It has been nothing but a joy to drive and I do all the maintenance myself. My Volvo is the favorite car though, and I can't wait to get everything fixed in a few months. I love that car.

[@lotsoftorque3632]

@@expertgaming1002 Awesome! I personally only owned one Volvo with a 3.2, it was an 08 xc90. It actually did not go too well. The car was most likely an auction car that I had bought from a used car dealer. The craziest thing was doing the serpentine belt on it, the labor was pretty nuts. It is easier to do on the 3.2 S80s though. But good for you you have had good luck with yours. I do really like the 5 cylinder Volvos and older though (2006 and older body styles) and have owned 3 2.5T S80s. Currently own a 2004 S80, a 1987 240, and a 1990 volvo 740 turbo. Yes the cars are very safe. Even the ones from the 70s are. I have been into volvos since 2012 (got my first S80 then) and all other from my collection were bought super cheap. The 240 only costs 700 bucks! Still on the road and have owned it now for 11 years. One thing I think that should have been mentioned in this video is how newer cars are a lot less reliable than older cars. The cars built now a days have plastic everywhere and will not stand the test of time like the cars from the 80s have.

[@ghostwrench2292]

@@doublebase6509 I have not heard of a non-interference engine being damaged when the timing drive breaks. I have first hand experience with a timing belt breaking on my own car though. I had a 1996 Subaru Impreza with the 1.8L engine (non-interference) where an idler seized resulting in about 20 teeth stripped off the belt while idling at a traffic light. The engine simply shut off and would not start. I bought a timing belt kit, timed the engine and it fired right up.

[@gianmariamalmesi4133]

I would add a change of the differential fluid at 100/150K

[@doublebase6509]

I didn’t even think about diffs and transfer cases. Agree 100%. I tend to over maintain differentials and do them every 50,000…same for transfer cases.

[@MrJFunk]

Fixing any issue right away is ideal to go besides the routine maintenance to prevent further damage to the rest of the vehicle. Have a 2003 Toyota Tacoma at 214k miles. Definitely keeping up with maintenance but did change ac compressor, rack and pinion, ignition coils, brakes, rotors, but also engine and transmission mounts, lower and upper ball joints, plus front driver wheel bearing twice. You’re right about hoses. They are all doing great. May need to replace a vacuum hose by the intake from changing out the air filter occasionally but that’s it since the radiator is still flawless. Great video. I also have a 2023 BMW and expecting to keep up with everything the same.

[@doublebase6509]

Nice work! You’re spot on about fixing the things earlier and keeping up with everything, because what ends up happening is when you let things go they just add up and up, and then you’re buried and you end up getting rid of the vehicle too soon (thinking it’s just too much). Good luck with the BMW, nice vehicle!

[@bolivarfan]

Excellent video! Thank you for your excellent suggestions. I have a 2016 Honda CRV with 60k miles, and i absolutely love it. I have been telling my wife that this is the last vehicle that I want to buy. With the care I have already been taking and your suggestions, I should be able to make that plan work. Thanks again!

[@MidwestMechanics]

I went half a million miles on my Camry without replacing a thing. Still has the original set of tires and all.

[@doublebase6509]

🤣🤣🤣

[@Miguel.Rosado7224]

💯 fluids and maintenance is the key to a high mileage vehicle. Also, if you have a car garage at home, invest in tools. Become competent and DYI. The savings add up after years of ownership and the satisfaction of acknowledging that it was all because of YOU! It’s not rocket science. Great video.

[@doublebase6509]

Well said! Thank you!

[@Thissandthat]

My 13’ Ford C-Max hybrid just keeps rolling with 263k. I’ve done all my own maintenance, and besides a few fuel injector, failing randomly over the years, and a squirrel chewing some wiring I’ve not had any issues. It still gets 40+ mpg all day long city or highway. It’s honestly been a real blessing! It’s 2.0 duratec still doesn’t burn any oil, couldn’t say that about my last Toyota!

[@doublebase6509]

It’s funny you mention the squirrels chewing through stuff/wires. I swear the most causes I’ve seen with check engine lights are from mice eating through wiring. Drives me NUTS!

[@bmwlane8834]

I'm like you. I had 575,000 on a Volvo 940....very little maintenance. I did replace a transmission.

[@doublebase6509]

That’s a lot of mileage! I think you’re the highest mileage car/person that has posted in the comments so far. I’ve never been able to get a vehicle to that point but I’d like to try. Volvo’s are legends for high mileage. Nice job.

[@meseyoungboy]

thanks for this video just recently brought my first car a 2006 toyota avalon with 232k miles wanna make sure take care of this forever

[@2seep]

You better hope it was well maintained. You honestly should have just bought a 1996-2004 civic. If the engine goes out a k24 engine costs like 500 dollars. And incredibly reliable and loves boost too.

[@hypster814]

I bought a 1997 Lexus LS400 recently, came with complete history. 163k miles, and I'm taking it for a full service with Lexus soon. I'm going for a minor restoration basically. She will give me 500k or more, I'm sure of it.

[@doublebase6509]

Frigging love those cars!! I owned a LS460 for five years, loved that too. But the LS400 is just a legend. The LS430 is probably one of the most reliable luxury cars ever, capable of going 500,000. But it all started with that LS400…I think it’ll be a collector car soon, if it already isn’t.

[@joer1678]

@@doublebase6509I have an 05 ls 430. Been babied it’s whole life and fully maintained. Best car ever

[@doublebase6509]

@@joer1678absolutely love those cars!

[@426envy]

My daily is a ‘99 Camry (5S-FE) almost 347,000, original engine/transmission, cold AC. Southern car all its life, no rust.

[@doublebase6509]

Got to love those rust free southern Toyotas!

[@efil4kizum]

@@doublebase6509 got to love those mostly-rust-free northern Toyotas!

[@doublebase6509]

@@efil4kizum I’m doing everything I can to keep mine that way! Fingers crossed. Going to fluid film it again next month before winter starts to creep in.

[@christiano8104]

Everything this guy is saying is 100% facts. I have a 2004 Toyota Camry 255,555 miles. I had to do both CV Axles, All 4 motor mounts, transmission service, Valve cover gaskets, new fuel cap, coils, spark plugs, new front calipers, new tire rods ends, new struts all around, New power steering rack, new power steering pump with all the lines and hoses being swapped out, new windshield, new headlights, and I had to take it to the body shop to get it repainted. Guys don’t let anyone fool you it’s takes work to get a high mileage car up there. Granted I’m the 3rd owner of this car so I only put 30,000 since ownership and some of these things could have been left out but I’m a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to cars 😂. But yeah these things will eventually fail. My transmission also bucks in 1st gear. So eventually I might have to swap it out for used one.

[@doublebase6509]

Thank you for the comment. I love it when people actually list the repairs that have been made to a vehicle that has done some serious mileage. 255,555 is some mileage and because it’s a Toyota people think you won’t have to repair it. It takes some effort to get any car to high mileage. But I think it’s worth it.

[@user-tb7rn1il3q]

@@doublebase6509The newer Toyotas are going that mileage without all those repairs. I don’t care what everyone is saying newer cars are built a lot better.

[@doublebase6509]

Yeah I do think newer cars usually have a lot of improvements and Toyota knows how to build a car. They usually investigate new technology very thoroughly before they implement it on their vehicles.

[@OtherDalfite]

​@@user-tb7rn1il3qI haven't driven new Toyotas so I can't be 100% sure of this. I agree that newer Toyotas are likely going further without maintenance. The question is is if Toyota allows customers to swap parts without having to do computer serial number crap for the car to accept the new part.

[@user-tb7rn1il3q]

@@OtherDalfite Maybe for a main computer, but nothing else

[@guymann4016]

You have one of the last years of Toyotas 2GR-FE. That’s basically a forever engine when cared for.

[@doublebase6509]

I agree, it’s a special engine and I feel like these newer engines have a lot to prove when compared to some of these older power plants.

[@doublebase6509]

@@18_rabbit I think it has more to do with direct injection and turbos/hybrid combos. Toyota took a big risk going turbo/direct injection/hybrid, all in one package. But I will say this, they are usually the last company to jump in on such things - meaning they usually wait, do their research, and refine while eliminating mistakes others make. But man they made some HUGE changes. Time will tell but I don’t like what I’m hearing the Tundra Turbo V6.

[@flylowe46m38]

My pathfinder hit 196k and I’ve had it 8 plus years but it had about 120k and it’s been good so far fuel pump and rad coolant over haul so far

[@Ran-tj2wy]

Great video, thank you for your insight and expertise.

[@MichaelCzajka]

All our cars are high km before sale: 2006 Yaris was just sold at 376,000 km. The only thing wrong with it was the auto transmission which was showing signs of wearing out (not noticeable unless you owned the vehicle): Mechanic suggested replacing it: $850 parts plus labour. That's cheaper than a repair ~$4,000 N.B. Transmission fluid and filter were changed as per the handbook ~100,000 km. Bands were adjusted at least once. Extra ATF changes weren't helping much towards the end. The mechanic who did the roadworthy on it a year ago was the one who bought it. Very few things needed repairing during its lifespan: 1) Shock absorbers, struts and springs replaced with slightly firmer and longer springs. A lift kit is ideal as the original springs sag after >100,000 km and are a bit too soft. Didn't have to change anything a second time as the upgraded parts addressed the problems with the original items ~$1,500 2) Throttle body sensor replaced ~270,000 km: Hard to diagnose ~$300 3) Headlights replaced with aftermarket lights due to yellowing ~320,000 km (~$220 for two). This was a roadworthy requirement: Cleaning them might have been sufficient but we didn't want to risk having to pay for another inspection (costs almost as much as the lights). 4) Airconditioner compressor bearing went at ~320,000 km ~$450 for second hand compressor plus fitting and gassing. 5) Aircon fan got wet (blocked drain tube) and shorted ~$120 (5 minute job: 3 screws) ~120,000 km Normal maintenance was performed every 10,000 km i.e. Oil changes This car has a cam chain which means it never needed changing... unlike cam belts. High efficiency oil filter was used and rarely changed (~80,000 km) as it wasn't picking up much. Air filter changed every 40,000 km Serpentine belt changed at >200,000 km Radiator fluid changed ~100,000 km Long life iridium plugs used and changed ~100,000 km Still has original coils Changed windscreen wipers ~100,000 km Radio needs changing as the volume knob has almost stopped working. The interior was quite dirty but only minor repairs were needed to fix stuff. This car had 142 psi across all 4 cylinders when sold It ran very quietly: You could barely hear the engine. We decided it was not worth replacing the transmission on an 18 year old car as the cost was starting to exceed the value of the car. Upgraded to a 2015 Yaris with less km and impeccable maintenance. 🙂

[@doublebase6509]

Those Yaris’s just seems to last forever. Nice Job!

[@jerrypolverino6025]

Most people cause the car to fail because they don’t maintain them. I have three vehicles. Hyundai Santa Fe 235,000 miles. Buick Park Avenue 160,000. Dodge Ram Diesel 390,000. All of them run perfectly. I change oil and filter at 3,000. I use full synthetic Pennzoil and a full flow high quality low micron filter. Change radiator fluid every two years. Fully flush transmission every 30,000 because I live in the mountains. I would change trans fluid at 50,000 if I lived on a flat area. I completely change brake fluid when I do my breaks after 100,000. I fix anything that breaks right away. Most auto repair shops are crooked so I keep a close eye on whoever works on my vehicles. It’s far cheaper to take very good care of an older vehicle than pay sales tax, finance, make car payments and be forced to carry comprehensive insurance.

[@doublebase6509]

I think where you say fix anything that breaks right away is a big part of keeping a car a long time. It keeps the vehicle in better overall condition, allows it to perform better, be safer and most importantly it keeps you happy with the vehicle. There’s nothing worse than driving around in something that’s old and needs multiple repairs on things.

[@jerrypolverino6025]

@@doublebase6509 Fixing little things like replacing shock absorbers for example prevents the rest of the suspension components from wearing out more rapidly. That’s just one example of an often neglected component.

[@doublebase6509]

@@jerrypolverino6025 good point! A worn out shock is going to cause tire cupping, with the price of tires nowadays it makes sense to keep up with repairs.

[@Ram14250]

2005 Honda Element 2.4L 4 cyl/Auto. 357,500 miles. Orig Engine/ Water pump and Transmission. Fluid Filmed. No Rust (Michigan Rust Belt/ Road Salt City!) Oil changes every 5K synthectic (Mobil 1 or Penzoil Platnum, Trans fluid changes, coolant flushes, alternator, a new propshaft (AWD) and suspention. I live in Michigan and the roads are tough on suspension. Great car! Parts are cheap and it runs and runs! Soon to be 360,000miles!

[@doublebase6509]

That’s awesome! I have a 2008 Honda CRV with 191,000 miles. Daughter is driving it now. We’ve owned for 15 years or so…not one single repair outside of tires, brakes and maintenance. Honestly it’s probably been the most reliable vehicle I’ve ever owned. It wasn’t babied either. There has been more than a few longer oil change intervals on it than I care to admit. That’s what happens when you have four cars in the family and you lose track of things.

[@TheAndersonOBrien]

How much is the interval for your transmission? I want to do 50k intervals (i’m at 20k miles now) but I’m concerned that If I do 50k miles they may not actually do it, and then I’ll have it done at 100k miles and there will be an issue

[@doublebase6509]

@@TheAndersonOBrien depends on what vehicles you’re talking about. On my Toyota there is no service interval, they call it “lifetime fluid” in the untied states because of cafe regulations. The rest of the world has the service interval from 50,000 to 100,000 do ending in where you live (and temperatures in your country). But you can have your fluid changed whenever you want, no one can dictate that to you. If you want to change it tomorrow, change it. If you want to wait till 50,000, do it then. But I wouldn’t wait till 100,000 miles on any vehicle, but that’s just me. What you don’t want to do is change it after 150,000 miles - that sometimes adds risk that the new fluid will cause issues with an old unit and free up contaminates into the valve body, causing shifting issues. But even that is debatable. So change it when you want, if any place tells you no, take it somewhere else.

[@loganlatosz5904]

How do you get no rust and 350k here in michigan? Do you do an undercoat?

[@Cute_anime_girl347]

Good advise for a novice about car like me

[@ernestotheawesomeone]

I'm a rideshare driver. Therefore, I drive at least 50k miles a year. My last car, VW Jetta, got to 230k miles. Unfortunately, I got into a car accident and was totaled. Now I have 2022 jetta, and it's at 97k miles. I'm hoping this one lasts well over 200k miles. I've kept up with all maintenance. I'm glad this video showed up on my recommendation tab.

[@doublebase6509]

The 50,000 mile a year folks always impress me. That’s a lot of driving and a lot of maintenance to keep a car going!

[@alan_clough]

Something else I recently started doing is adding anti sieze to bolts when I take them off. Some of them you don't want to add it to though so do your research.

[@survivethrive2468]

Excellent video!

[@athomewithrobin292]

I loved this honest review. Everything you said was spot in at least with my car. 180k camry just replaced suspension and tires and cars runs like new. Also alternator, belt, starter, dog bone mount( 3rd time).

[@abelguerrero2934]

I appreciate your video!

[@samueladams584]

I've had the oil changed every 3000 miles on a 08 Honda Accord 2.4 since we owned it from 50k miles. It now has 275k miles and feels like it can go another 100k miles.

[@jmac13131]

Very sensible video. I had a 2020 Jeep Wrangler with just under 60k miles on and still owed 18 months of $600 per month payments. My wife had been driving a Nissan Murano that we paid cash for but the mileage had gotten up there a bit and knowing the issues with the cvt trans, we decided to trade it for a 2022 Pathfinder (she also wanted the extra row for the grand babies). Once we purchased the Nissan, I couldn’t stomach the thought of two payments so I sold the Jeep and took the equity and bought a 2012 Toyota 4Runner with a little over 100k. Oil changes had been done at the dealership every 5k and trans fluid was flushed around 90k. Very clean and spent its life in Texas so undercarriage was in great shape. I loved my Jeep but I know the reliability difference between it and the 4Runner are night and day. I hesitated a bit on the 4Runner because it was a 2012, but the difference in a 2016-2017 model vs the 2012 with the same mileage was around $5-7k and since they are all the same generation and haven’t changed much at all other than a little cosmetically, I didn’t see the need to pay extra for the look. My goal is to get it to 300k and with my current driving habits would get me there in 10-12 years. The difference in my wife’s payment and my old Jeep payment is around $150 per month so I’m going to try to put $200 per month into a savings account specifically for repairs/down payment on my next car. It will be interesting to see where I am when I decide to move on from the 4Runner. Again, very sensible video and I appreciate the information from a certified mechanic.

[@doublebase6509]

I think that’s a great strategy and I’m sure know how reliable and legendary those 4Runners were/are. Not unusual to see those things with 300,000 trouble free miles. Best of luck!

[@nld0947]

Excellent info. I am a diyer and have been doing exactly what you said. My 2007 I4 Rav4 has 227k with no issues right now. This is what I have done to this vehicle. 3 waterpumps replacement, 2 sets of spark plugs, 1 set of coils, 1 Alternator, 1 starter, 1 set of front/back suspension, ball joins, 1 set of coolant hoses, 1 valve cover gasket. Of course the routine maintenance of 5k oil change, 5 yrs coolant change, 60k transmission oil change, brakes, tires, add freon etc. I added Berry B12 to the gas tank once a year. I did the pistons soak with Berryman B12 while ago and it significantly reduced oil burning.

[@doublebase6509]

I love posts like this!! Excellent job doing all that yourself! Saved a ton of money and kept that thing in the road. Keep it going. Why three water pumps? Maintenance or were they leaking?

[@nld0947]

@doublebase6509 The oem waterpump leaked around 60k miles. The replacement water pump leaked around 170k. Not long after the waterpump replacement, there was a crazy engine rattle around the waterpump, I replaced the waterpump again, and the tensioner and those weren't the problem. It was the Alternator that rattled, so I replaced the Alternator. Luckily, this vehicle and most Toyota models are easy to work on.

[@SK-lt1so]

You need a garage in much of the country. In cold areas, the snow/cold will pummel your vehicle outdoors.

[@doublebase6509]

Yeah I agree, there are theories stating different though. Have you heard people say that the garage will melt the snow and ice you accumulate on your vehicle and will activate the salt you picked up? Makes some sense but I’d still rather have the garage, it eliminates the cold starts in the mornings. Plus it keeps the rodents away from making a home in my engine bay in the fall.

[@efil4kizum]

@@doublebase6509 it is called 'cooking the rott' i believe with a heated garage... i do not have a heated garage, it is separate from the house so no need to worry about that!

[@jackdjacki1872]

I agree with everything you say, just when it comes to suspension parts and cv axles, buy them from the dealer OEM they are the cheapest in the long run and your driving will feel almost like when it was brent new

[@doublebase6509]

You know what, I think I’m going to take your advice on that. I usually will go with aftermarket because of the cost but the quality and ride feel is never the same again. And I usually end up replacing them again early because they’re wiped out. I’m talking struts mostly, but also control arms, ball joints and wheel bearings. I’ve had some aftermarket wheel bearings go in under 10,000 miles - they may warranty them but I still have to spend time replacing them. That’s a a waste. I’m pretty careful/selective with aftermarket wheel bearing now because of that. But man, cost can be so high with some OE manufacturers. I owned a Lexus once and OE wheel bearings were $700 bucks a piece, but when you’re replacing them twice?? It makes you think OE would have been the right move.

[@ceescorner]

My frontier I got at 156k, I'm at 185k right now. I changed every fluid. Only fluid that looked off was rear differential. The service record showed fluid changes at 70-90K. So not bad. I did change every hose at 175k because I started to get seepage here and there. Now the cooling system is 👌🏽 keeping the rust at bay. It'll rot before getting to 500k due to previous owners tho.

[@nate666]

320,000 plus Hyundai Tucson 2011 original engine and transmission. The key is to drive every day and curculate lubricants. 😉

[@doublebase6509]

I think there’s a lot of truth to that!

[@briankalagher6687]

my 07 es350 with your same motor just crossed 200k. Suspension is rusted but body is perfect. I do oil at 5K about to do my 1st drain and fill on trans and doing the brake fluid this week with pads and rotors. (I just do it when I do brakes which is around 3 yrs) Then coolant and air filter next time. Only 17 inch rims so the 4 new tires I just put on were under$400. The longer I have cars the more I like them. Only owned this for a couple years but I love the way it drives on the highway and the 36K miles I put on it have all been great. I'll be so happy if I can get 400K but I only paid $4500 for it so if anything major comes up I'll just buy another with lower miles. I look at these projects as education for my next 2GR FE.

[@doublebase6509]

Make sure those spark plugs are changed on that ES350. A little difficult of a job but nothing too crazy. Those things are highway warriors…so smooth and stable.

[@briankalagher6687]

@@doublebase6509 Thanks man! will do! The guy I bought it from had a shop do plugs at 114K but they put autolite platinum in and I want to go back to OEM iridiums soon. I had to rewire the cam position sensor for a P0368 code that kept popping because they messed up those wires when doing the plugs and did a bad job fixing it. The new pigtail only cost me $5 but it took me 6 hrs plus to do because it's so tight back there. Trying out Valvoline Maxlife ATF on this drain and fill because he had a shop do a transmission flush at 145K so It's not filled with toyota WS now and I'm curious about how that valvoline will do. I had a 98 GS400 for 15 years and that thing amazed me with its reliability. Like it was almost unbelievable. I cant buy anything other than lexus now. And the price difference between 15 yr old v6 camry and lexus was almost zero when I bought this. Thanks for all the great content too.

[@doublebase6509]

I think you’ll have good luck with the Maxlife transmission fluid, if I remember it was a pretty popular alternative to the WS on the forums. My next drain and fill will have a quart of the Maxlife - I had two bottles of the WS laying around and it takes three quarts for the drain and fill, didn’t want to drive to the Toyota dealer for the WS so I picked up some Maxlife at Walmart.

[@davidinfante8529]

335k on my 07 Element, original engine and automatic trans. 5k oil and 45k trans fluid. Would drive it anywhere. And i do.

[@doublebase6509]

Nice work! We have a 2008 Honda CRV in the family, it’s sitting at 192,000 trouble free miles. All I’ve done to it is general maintenance…oil changes, coolant, transmission fluid, diff fluid, tires, brakes, and one set of struts. That’s it. Fingers crossed it continues on like this because it’s now been my daughter’s car for three years. Oh, last year I did put an exhaust system on it (cat back), the original rusted out. That’s all I’m worried about. Rust.

[@markrhuett]

My 2005 tacoma base model with 5 speed manual has 205,000 miles. All I've done is change the clutch and flywheel at 175,000 miles and changed the spark plugs at 150,000 miles. The engine still runs great. I can go 5000 miles and it doesn't burn any oil.

[@doublebase6509]

You picked probably the ultimate vehicle to go 500,000 miles in, those things are legends.

[@brandonwiley6530]

My grandparents 15GS only has 39k on it, we’ve changed the oil every 3k miles pretty much, just did a coolant flush by time,but I know that car may never see 100k miles but it has never done us wrong in 9 years other than nails in tires

[@daninva6458]

Good stuff. One thing I would personally do is front lower control arms. Typically, the bushing that controls the fore/aft positioning of the front wheel will get worn, and shaking wheels down by hand is not enough load to find the movement. If you are going about 5mph, step on the brakes and see if you get a single clunk in the front end when you hit the brakes. How long they last varies based on driving conditions, but it can really tighten up your front end.

[@doublebase6509]

Good stuff! Agree 100%

[@Sooflojoe]

Im with you in regards to pushing a vehicle into 'high mileage' territory. As an avid diy'er, car maintenance and repairs are commonplace for me. Anything that i cant handle, I hire out. People these days are so quick to get rid of their vehicles when they reach 100k +. Maybe if you've neglected the vehicle (which most people are guilty of ).

[@doublebase6509]

Someone the other day was saying to me…I need to trade my truck in because it’s approaching 100,000 miles and I don’t trust it. I asked him, is there something wrong with it? The answer was, no. I told him, 100,000 miles on almost any vehicle built in the last 20 years is like nothing for these things. He didn’t believe me. Like you, I enjoy the value, the challenge and the savings. I like to see how far I can push a vehicle before I absolutely have to get rid of it. I just like machinery that can go the distance, and I like to think I’m helping it get there with my maintenance routines.

[@Sooflojoe]

@@doublebase6509 Absolutely! My daily is 2007 Lexus Gs350 with 152k on the clock (and counting :)... Similar to your Camry. Good 'ol v6 power as well as comfort. It's not perfect, but it doesn't need to be. It runs like a top and is plenty quick enough not to get killed on the highway. It also is INFINITELY better than any of the GDI crap being sold with their cvt transmissions. Just look at these schmucks driving out there with their shiny new sh*t boxes... I just shake my head in disbelief. Most financially strapped on car payments for something that will more than likely fail catastrophically before the loan is even paid off! It blows my mind...

[@nestorroman2694]

Don't forget the Lucas!

[@free2chasehappy]

All my cars are over 225k miles. 02 Crown Vic w 268k, 02 F250 (7.3 powerstroke) w 238k. Do most of the maintenance myself, 3k mile oil change for gas, 50k miles on coolant and other fluids.

[@freddyhollingsworth5945]

460,000 miles on my 03 Grand Marquis, in the family since new, original engine, original blend door actuator, trans original, axle original, front end never touched, pw, glass. Paint is bad, driver's seat falling apart, 1 intake manifold, alternator, 1 gear selector bulb, 1 LCM under recall, 1 water and fuel pump. still runs like new and has been ran dry on engine oil on accident like 7 times and severely overheated like 10 times from falling asleep in it and accidently holding it on the floor till someone came knocking on my window and when woke and let off the gas the engine died and locked up for 15-20 min, runs fine.... I do believe that if you start with a solid car, you can easily get to 500,000 miles with little no no repairs. Original brake fluid, axle oil, engine oil changed every 10-14,000 miles, trans pan dropped every 50,000 miles, spark plugs and coils every 200,000 miles... please feel free to come inspect this car- it is in NW Arkansas

[@doublebase6509]

Great cars. Did you replace the delta pressure differential sensor yet? Those things used to go bad on those all the time. Easy fix. But I agree - the right car is a HUGE part of the equation. And you have a legend in the Grand Marquis.

[@freddyhollingsworth5945]

@@doublebase6509 not on this 03, but that DPDS did fail on a 95 that we had 15 years ago...

[@nickd.7267]

It all depends. Depends on where you live how you drive previous owner if you're a single owner my recommendation to anybody is only OEM and fluid changes early

[@doublebase6509]

You’re the second person that’s mentioned only OEM parts. I’m starting to be convinced you have a solid point.

[@bofty]

329000km on my 2011 Subaru Liberty, replaced CVT from a wrecked car at 257000km when the ‘oil module’ went, known issue in those models and I don’t think it ever had a fluid change (I do that now). That was $3k in Australia, replaced the radiator and front lower control arms recently and no other issues. Still runs and drives like it did when I got it

[@doublebase6509]

Spending $3k for a car that still drives like new is a no brainer. And I bet the thing drives much better after the control arms were replaced. Keep that thing going! Next up 450,000kms

[@bofty]

@@doublebase6509 the control arms made a huge difference! Even major repairs like a replacement gearbox is so much cheaper than buying new cars every few years, I wish more people understood that

[@Youtubecensoredmyusername]

334k 07 tacoma, only did 34k myself. Some of the high mileage cars still run the best. Like they were built extra better-er from the factory

[@Ullritz]

Mine is 09 accord euro 2.4. It’s on 220,000 km. Drives very smooth.

[@drscopeify]

I think a lot of people dump their cars when 2 things happen #1 suspensions starts to wear out and the car feels "Old" or #2 the Engine Mounts wear out and the car starts to vibrate and shimmy. These 2 issues are very very easy to fix in most cars but they can be hard to diagnose. Even high quality technicians can fail to figure out vibrations as they have so little time to do so. But a smart car owner can figure it out.

[@doublebase6509]

I have to agree. Good points.

[@jonc2914]

Most people get rid of cars when the interior looks like shit

[@drscopeify]

@@jonc2914 Not sure, a detailing is not that much money they come to you so it's no hassle but suspension issues can make the car feel loose and wobbly, vibrations, harsh feeling, feeling of the road, when rubber bushings wear out and knuckles get loose it's a mess. You can replace shocks and that won't fix the issue either so people can spend a few hundred on new shocks thinking it will fix the suspension and it does not.... You need to replace all of the arm bushings, $$$ A full front end rebuild is thousands of dollars unless you DIY but boy oh boy does that restore the suspension or what

[@aaron___6014]

I put 245k on a gen 1 CRV over 13 years. I had to replace so many parts. Only one original axle remained. So many parts and so many stuck rusty bolts, but the original struts, diff, trans and engine. So many fluid changes and valve adjustments. Lots of exhaust work, but still mostly original.

[@doublebase6509]

Your story sounds familiar to mine that I had with a 6th generation Honda Accord. I drove it to 290,000 miles, purchased it new. Regular maintenance, probably over maintained it, but a ton of repairs. Axles, ball joints, control arms, sway bar links and bushings (3 times), mufflers (3 times), engines mounts front and rear (twice), 02 sensors, EGR valve, EVAP charcoal canister (twice), gas tank, entire exhaust system, front struts, steering rack (it was leaking), front engine cradle (that was a big repair), brake lines, fuel lines, tie rods. Transmission switches (2 of them). Vtec solenoid. Radiator, water pumps, three timing belts. After all that ^^^ the engine began consuming so much all at 250,000 miles that I drove it only for 40,000 more before it began stalling at idle too frequently for anyone else to drive it. And I did oil changes every 3,000 miles on that thing. But the tranny was still fine, the engine probably would have lasted another 100,000 miles but the stalling issue I just couldn’t figure out (and I tried everything). Surprisingly I still had the original starter and alternator in that thing, but I imagine that was on its way out soon. That’s a lot of repairs but a good portion of it was from rust (brake line, fuel lines, gas tank, exhaust/mufflers). I never used to spray undercoating when I was younger, I do now. I would have saved myself from a lot of these problems. The suspension stuff is somewhat normal. What wasn’t normal was all the engine mounts (but those were cheap on this car), sensors, EVAP, EGR, and most importantly the engine cradle. The cradle is a known manufacturer defect from Honda - they routed the evaporator drain INSIDE the frame, and they rusted from the inside out. That was a HUGE defect on those cars.

[@aaron___6014]

@@doublebase6509 oh yeah I replaced all the engine mounts three times. And on the last good I reinforced them with extra rubber from an aggregate conveyor belt. I also did 3k oil changes and never had any oil consumption, but I did notice some metal in the oil towards the end. What kind of undercoating are you using?

[@doublebase6509]

@@aaron___6014 I’ve been using fluid film. I’ve also used NH Oil Undercoating. In the huger exposure areas I’ll use white lithium grease or a heavier wax based substance (so it won’t wash away).

[@miguelsalazar3239]

2007 camry v6, 340xxx miles. 6,000 mile synthetic oil changes. 30,000 transmission drain and fill. 50,000 coolant drain and fill. First spark plug change at 300,000 🙈 . They never failed...just had to finally change them.

[@doublebase6509]

That’s awesome! 300,000 miles on a set of spark plugs!!?? Winner winner chicken dinner! Never heard of anyone going that far. Amazing. Nice work!

[@miguelsalazar3239]

@@doublebase6509 kzbin.info/www/bejne/gnS6fad4oMx1ipIsi=e7zoysUAkW9I9V0d

[@miguelsalazar3239]

@doublebase6509 kzbin.info/www/bejne/gnS6fad4oMx1ipIsi=e7zoysUAkW9I9V0d Yea I gambled...lol

[@gandhisFlipFlops]

Good tips but I would add replacing power steering fluid at 100k miles as well, super high PSI and small particles will cause a lot of damage over time because of the high pressures so I would argue changing the power steering fluid might save you power steering pump replacement on an older car. Also my mechanic advised changing my transmission fluid every 25-30k miles since I said I drive as a pizza delivery guy high city driving.

[@doublebase6509]

Good points! Someone else mentioned the PS fluid as well, and I agree…it’s easy enough to replace, it’s cheap. Makes sense. And I think your mechanic is spot on with those tranny services due to you delivering pizza. A pizza delivery driver would easily fall under extreme driving conditions. So would Uber, or driving for Amazon Flex. Those types of things. Cold weather driving, short trips, towing, using a truck for plowing, hauling, extensive idling. All this ^^^ and more will change maintenance interval length on engine oil/transmission fluid/brakes/suspension/tires. No doubt.

[@prostmahlzeit]

Power steering also goes out because of leaking seals and broken hoses

[@doublebase6509]

@@prostmahlzeit I find that when the leaks happen…rack, lines, whatever, if you’re not careful the pump gets wiped out pretty quickly. Honesty, I’m not seeing hydraulic power steering systems very often anymore on newer cars, they’re all electric. No fluid, no power steering pump, no lines to worry about. I didn’t think I’d like these systems buy so far I really can’t complain, they seem pretty reliable and they do what they’re supposed to do.

[@prostmahlzeit]

@@doublebase6509 electric power steering is much better than hydraulic in terms of reliability. But when the electric rack goes bad it costs a lot.

[@doublebase6509]

@@prostmahlzeit Yeah initially they were ridiculous in price! They’ve dropped quite a bit do to the amount of time they’ve been out there, and all the refurbished units have lowered the prices. Still higher than a hydraulic rack though, and if it’s a newer model car it’s going to be high.

[@GymChess]

As for brake fluid, I just suck the reservoir dry and replace it with new fluid. I know it’s like swearing in the church but I’m fairly convinced that if you do that eg two or three times a year the new fluid will slowly replace the old.

[@doublebase6509]

I know the fluid looks a heck of a lot different at the calipers, and you do get that fluid out when exchanging fluid at the wheels, but maybe your method is replenishing the fluid enough where it creeps into the other fluid and removes the moisture content? No idea.

[@GymChess]

@@doublebase6509 There are those who religiously believe and stick to the most, let's say proven method, and do it at each wheel. But that can also involve some risks such as rounding or breaking a bleed nipple, etc. Some say that there is no "movement" in the brake lines but I believe that there is. If for instance you suck out the fluid from the reservoir and replace it with new, fresh fluid and do it again a month or less later, you'll find that the fluid has clearly changed color. You can even measure the amount of moisture/water in the fluid before and after.

[@doublebase6509]

Interesting, I’ll have to give it a try.

[@SirPsychonautic]

Got an 04 sequoia thats been in the family since new. 14 states and almost 250k miles so half way there! 2UZ's are tough as nails.

[@doublebase6509]

Those things are indestructible!

[@1411MEDIA]

201k miles on my Mercedes W164 ML350. No check engine light. Original engine and transmission, #3 T case #2 front diff. I’m also an ASE diesel tech by trade so I do all my own maintenance and repairs and I have STAR factory service software

[@doublebase6509]

Love to hear that! Gives me hope that maybe I can get mine to higher mileage - besides I was looking at interest rates on four year $30,000 dollar used car loan and laymen’s would be around $700 a month. I’m not doing that. I’ve kept up with the tranny fluid, diffs, coolant, plugs, filters, and I’ve undercoated the bottom a few times. I’m leaning towards keeping it. The electrical issues I’ve had is getting under my skin, but perhaps that’s over now. Paint is in good shape…I’ll need tires, a rear spring (again) and a front wheel bearing (again) before winter. That’s not bad.

[@1411MEDIA]

@@doublebase6509 I think if you can sort the few electrical issues it will last a very long time. I also need front wheel bearings. Replaced them 3 years ago with FAG bearings and already bad now.

[@jonathanoneill8655]

Very interesting about getting the fluid film dusty after application never heard of that

[@doublebase6509]

Yeah it builds up a nice barrier.

[@GameFlife]

this is golden !! holy crap i need this info into my excel!

[@moshewakatelutiw6233]

I bought an 89 camry for 575 at auction in LA. 296k. The first owners must have maintained it. The last owners did not. It had no installed starter when i got it. Burned out one in trunk. Installed a new one. Turn signal didnt work on left, made a loud noise. Got that whole assembly thing at the junkyard and fixed that. Almost of the bulbs were burned somehow. Replaced those. AC i havent figured out yet. No air at vent. I have the evaporator removed. Windows werent working. Wasnt motors or switches and im not great with a multimeter. So i got 4 manual regulators off a base model 89 and the door panels and took a hodge podge of pieces to nake these super cool looking two tone door panels out of stock parts. Im delivering amazon packages in this car. I also like high mileage cars and take pride in having the oldest car and possibly the highest mileage car at most warehouses. Im currently installing an aisin timing belt water pump kit Also doing front struts with kyb inserts and waiting on injectors that i mailed out to a guy who rebuilds them perfectly. Oh yeah, i installed a rack and pinion cause the old one wasnt holding fluid. Im at 304k. Pulled the cover today when i started the tear down for the timing belt injectors and other atuff. Cam lobes are discolored. Ive done two oil changes so far and ran a flush both tines. Gonna do another flush when im wrapping up this slew of maintenance and repairs I hope yo get to 400k in my 575 dollar 296k mile toyota

[@doublebase6509]

Love this! That’s a lot of work, do you have a lift at home? If not, that power steering rack must have been a royal pain to do. Nice job on the car. The no airflow to the AC vents makes me wonder if a mode door is stuck or something.

[@ckerce]

Great video! Love the Avalon…have one just like it (2017)!

[@doublebase6509]

Amazing cars!

[@Areku06]

Great video, very good advice. There are teslas model 3s that have done almost 500k miles with just tires and suspension parts, still original brakes and batteries. I’m not sure if I would do that with ice car, it’s expensive, not just maintenance but also fuel in California is not cheap.

[@doublebase6509]

I’ve heard the opposite on repairs for Tesla, BUT I personally don’t have experience working on Tesla’s. Good to hear there are instances with the EV’s being reliable and inexpensive to own and operate. Someday I’m sure I will own an EV, but I’m not ready to take that plunge right now. Tesla is a company I’ve been told multiple times to buy stock in, and I haven’t pulled the trigger when I should have. I’ve been told this is a company that has so many other revenue sources that their EV segment won’t be the driving factor…instead it’ll be AI, batteries, charging networks, electric strobe, solar roofs, market share. Next time it drops bellow $200 I’m buying in.

[@Areku06]

@@doublebase6509early model s didn’t make it past 200k but model 3/y long range (not standard models) make it past 400k with minimal maintenance, tires and control arm/bushing, brake flush. I personally have model 3 long range dual motor with 100k miles only thing it needed was tires and front control arms, weight and torque kills them, I replaced them myself. I had bmw 335i before and it needed some much more maintenance at 100k miles, probably $8k-10k in maintenance, I did it my self for about $2k. I like fast cars, I understand Toyota would be much cheaper to maintain like you said compared to a German brand.

[@doublebase6509]

@@Areku06love that you’re doing the repairs yourself! And happy to hear the Tesla is treating you right! I’m looking forward to the day I own a Tesla and can work on it myself; and enjoy the performance and the reliability of it. The reliability part of it surprises me, glad to hear it!

[@joedo5886]

08 dodge charger 2.7l v6. 210,000 Repairs: Timing chain, water pump, radiator, harmonic balancer, serpentine belt, upper and lower intake gaskets, valve cover gaskets, transmission filter, spark plugs and coils.

[@doublebase6509]

Nice work! Keep it going! I used to work on those things, mostly the 3.5’s.

[@nathanbrown8689]

I did have an issue with brake fluid after about 10 years. Made the brake pedal squeak in the summer. Apparently boiling in the line…

[@noseefood1943]

Any Toyota with reg fluid, filters, plugs, belts, tires, pads, rotors, and struts will make it to 500k

[@aygwm]

Not the case anymore

[@nordicpride9708]

Maybe the Japanese built ones. The ones honey boo boo makes in Kentucky… NOPE!

[@Areku06]

Not new v6 twin turbo.

[@user-tb7rn1il3q]

@@aygwmThe new ones are actually even better.

[@user-tb7rn1il3q]

@@nordicpride9708They are both exactly the same. They are made by robots.

[@europana7]

Use DOT4 if your car states DOT3. Had a stuck caliper and gives you a little extra margin for higher brake fluid boiling point.

[@othman0077]

My car uses DOT 4, I filled it with DOT 5.1 came much better and smoother

[@nickt5495]

I have a 2013 Odyssey with 143k, living in NY State. I spray the under side with clean water for 30 mins several times once spring comes and it has almost no rust.

[@doublebase6509]

Nice! And no rust prevention treatments? Just the water spray in spring?

[@nickt5495]

@@doublebase6509 yes. garden hose and sprayer

[@key981]

Ty for posting this I like videos like this that shows how to keep a car a long time 😮😮

[@7SUK1]

I bought my first car exactly a year ago. She's a 2012 Honda Civic non si with the 5 speed manual transmission (Clutch still feels great). When I bought her, she had a little over 121k miles and I only put less 5k miles on her sitting at 125k now. She still runs great even after a 9hr drive/600 mile drive. Immediately afterward I got my first oil change and at that time it said 15% oil life remaining. From now on she's going to be getting oil changes at 3k which is just personal preference. Next oil change, I'm going to do trans fluid and probably the coolant aswell. I plan to get a lot of miles out of this car and seeing as I drive under 5k miles a year (which can change), it's going to be a long time.

[@doublebase6509]

Those are very reliable cars! That thing should last you a long time and because it’s a 5 speed manual, you probably will avoid a tranny replacement (maybe a clutch), but the manuals last forever with maintenance. And if 3,000 mile oil changes gives you peace of mind, do it! I really think half the battle is feeling good about what you are doing.

[@Senicova]

210,000 miles on my 2011 Honda Fit 5 Speed. Original clutch, alternator, starter. I do my own oil changes and work if needed.. all preventative so far outside of brakes, tires etc. Ill see some Fits for sale still going at 300-400k but I want to go past that for sure

[@doublebase6509]

Yes! Nice work! Drive the heck out of that thing, maintain it, get your money’s worth and then some. I bet you can get to 500,000 in that thing, they’re built for it.

[@jd646]

Good stuff

[@sasoriuzumakii]

just bought my first car which was a 2003 honda civic with 177k miles and i’m trying to keep it as long as possible

[@doublebase6509]

Honestly, I think as long as it’s been cared for and maintained (and there isn’t a lot of rust), you picked a great car to have for a long time. But rust is a killer.

[@ScottishTerrorsInLA]

I’ve had 6 cars so far and want a Civic as my next one. I feel I gotta have that manual trans. Good luck with yours Uzimakii

[@wes2460]

Best Engine I have ever had was in a 1991 Ford Escort GT. Had a 1.8 Dohc Mazda made engine . I drove that car for ever and had 397,000 miles on it,when it got totaled . The Body was crap of course but the engine was sewing machine smooth and would fly, and you can bolt up a turbo right to it. The engine was designed for turbo from the factory they just left off the turbo.I only put one timing belt,water-pump,alternator on it cause it broke but it was not a interference engine so no harm done. I dogged that car to no end it never would die.

[@doublebase6509]

I love stories like this! And you’re honest too…most would have just said they made it to 400,000 miles and rounded up. That’s quite a journey you took that thing on…397,000 is a ton of miles and you did it with very little repair.

[@williammouri1096]

Toyota is king of high mileage. Everything you said is true. If you're rich, you can deal with the Merc. Cost over the life of the car is almost nothing. My oldest Toyota is 33 years young. No payment for 30 years.

[@doublebase6509]

33 year old Toyota!!?? Wow, how many miles?

[@stvkomer]

Ok so over the years I have managed to get a dodge intrepid 3.3 and a ford windstar 3.8 both to over 400,000 and my current 5.7 Hemi Ram is at 275k. The trick is LOTS of oil AND transmission fluid changes, and a 185 thermostat! It keeps the cooling system just below the temperature to pressurize. This drastically reduces the stress on the cooling system hoses, radiator, heater core etc....

[@doublebase6509]

Nice work on the Windstar and Intrepid - I used to work on those things and they required a lot of attention. The Windstar…I remember doing those intake gaskets on those things over and over again. A lot of suspension work, and Ford front struts weren’t exactly user friendly. And the Intrepids back then, all I remember was AC condensers, transmissions, O2 sensors, and fuel rails. I agree 100%…early fluid changes on those vehicles could have extended the life of those transmissions. Thanks for posting. Love hearing stories of people getting vehicles to high mileage, especially when those vehicles aren’t known to reach high mileage. Those are the best stories, in my opinion.

[@bryceharvey4456]

1996 toyota corolla 401K miles same engine and tranmission.

[@efil4kizum]

NiCE! 96 Corolla here also with only 137k most all short city miles + winter salt monster battle

[@bryceharvey4456]

@@efil4kizum when you replace any engine or transmission mounts replace all 3 it will save you trouble in the long run.

[@efil4kizum]

@@bryceharvey4456 i bot all new mounts 4 of them for the Corolla OEM mounts... one of them was extremely Pricey!

[@GixxerRider1991]

I have a 2017 370Z 6MT and am currently up to date on all maintenance at 45,000 miles. If I can get 250,000 out of the original motor I'll be happy with that!

[@doublebase6509]

Fun car to go 250,000 miles in!

[@sk8erdude872]

For me I want to go to 500k but I also like to replace things on the car before it goes out because I take long drives to the mountains, etc and I don't want to experience a problem during a trip. I'd rather deal with it at home. Anything made in Japan I trust (Mazda, Toyota)

[@doublebase6509]

Yeah, mountain driving is interesting, isn’t it? A lot of strain on the transmission going up and down. I’ve watched my tranny temp just climb and climb going up smaller mountain roads in the summer. My brake rotors have been ruined going down some mountain roads before too. Weather has also turned on a dime on me in winter…from bright and sunny to a complete white out in a matter of minutes, dumping three inches of blinding snow on the ground. That was scary. Drove through a few hail storms before too (had to pull over). Seen a few horrific deaths too over the years…cars going over cliffs, lot of motorcycle fatalities. I would want my vehicle to be in very good condition if I were driving mountain roads.

[@Kellxrated]

General alaties is crazy CRAZY work. Should’ve just went without that vernacular for this go round

[@doublebase6509]

Haha! Thank you for that. Maybe next time.

[@jd646]

I have a 04 Acura MDX, it's 20 years old with 210k on the odometer. Runs like a dream I take good care of her. No major repairs

[@doublebase6509]

Nice work! Where I am 20 years in a vehicle is almost impossible because of the rust. Had a Honda Accord for 17 years, still ran great with 290,000 miles on it, but the subframe rotted out (which I replaced), and then the brake lines (second time), and the gas tank, fuel lines. Ended up selling it because I just grew tired of battling the rust.

[@jd646]

@@doublebase6509 yeah I'm from Georgia, thankfully no salt, no snow, and no rust

[@Jag-leaper]

Why does nobody bother to rust proof their car? If you regularly oil spray your car there is no reason why it should rot out at all

[@doublebase6509]

@@Jag-leaper I think it’s so so important! But I still will get rust. It does slow it down…I think it adds years to the vehicle. But rust is impossible to beat, IMO, you can slow it, but you won’t stop it. But I think you can add 5-7 years more to a vehicle in the rust belt if you treat it, maybe more, maybe less. But it does something good, it’s a bit pricey if you can’t do it yourself but it beats the alternative of junking the car.

[@furis8888]

Thanks for the video man :) //Toby from sweden

[@doublebase6509]

Thanks for watching!

[@zyahhewitt708]

A cars always gonna love new oil. I change mine at 3000-4500. But I do pulls every so often

[@zyahhewitt708]

265000 vw 1.8t

[@doublebase6509]

I’m thinking about dropping my intervals down a bit, not sure. My particular engine/car/commute, seems to be doing very well with longer intervals (according to used oil analysis), but as a tech it doesn’t feel all that right either. Nice work on your VW! One of the cars I was considering replacing the Mercedes’ with was a 2022 VW Atlas with the V6.

[@angelgjr1999]

I change mine every 5k miles. A little overkill for an NA engine, but it’s better to be safe. Burns about a quart between changes.