How to Install a 220 Volt 4 Wire Outlet

How to install a 220 volt 4 wire outlet for a dryer or stove. Please be advised this is for the USA only. A four wire is the added neutral wire. So you will be using 2 hots, one neutral and one ground. Making it a 4 wire install. www.askmediy.com

[@prahe86]

Wow, great video. You have a rare combination of knowledge and the ability to teach in a fun, easy to understand manner. I wish I had more instructors like you back when I was in school.

[@Askmediy]

Thank you so so much. You made my day.

[@chrisclyde456]

I'll definitely have to agree. Great job sir. I didn't have to keep going back to relisten. Very easy to understand. Thanks for the help

[@francinehawkins6335]

Jb .

[@ldr4278]

I think you are great man! Excellent video. You could be a teacher. You speak logically and clear and concise. Thank you for helping other people with your information.

[@Askmediy]

Thank you so much.

[@friscojill]

I love love love your instructional videos..I have used your knowledge to reconstruct, replace, rewire my old breaker box. I've spent many a nights listening and re-listening to your videos. My house is coming along..just a few more outlets to change out and then I'm done..THANK YOU!!!

[@Askmediy]

Awesome. Thank you very much.

[@Charles-in3zt]

Awesome video, great technical information flavored with a great personality. Used this information to wire a new dryer outlet and wired a new 30 amp breaker into a sub panel downstairs. Now if our dryer breaks down upstairs we have a backup. Thanks Dom. Keep em coming. My guess is your saving lives with this important info.

[@st8kout1]

Good instructions. For some reason I thought it was more complicated but it's actually quite straightforward. 2 hot wires to the double breaker, neutral white wire to the neutral bus and the bare ground wire to the ground bus.

[@Askmediy]

st8kout1 Yup, glad I could help out.

[@gsh319]

HaHa Great teacher......smoke fie or anything...big finally Great Thanks for all your great info and teaching... your a natural teacher. Thank you.

[@Mc-qj4lk]

At 1:41 into this, I had my main question answered. At 2:06, any other mysteries were cleared up. I'm going to finish watching now. But, I'm already smarter and this is ridiculously straight forward and informative.

[@Mc-qj4lk]

5:33, 7:53... more tips. I will use this information to install my generator hook up and interlock. Nicely done, Dominick. Thanks.

[@CaffeineGeek]

Thank you for your excellent video. Everything is clear, concise, and informative while also entertaining.

[@Askmediy]

+CaffeineGeek Thank you very much. Always happy to help.

[@RainManFights]

That was a lot of fun to watch. I love the "Bang!! haha" when you flipped the breaker. Cheers!

[@sonyyoung1036]

I did not see you ground the box but you tested the box to ensure it was grounded. Good job!

[@miamitreasurehunter]

By far the most simple and greatest Video on this subject I found! Thanks Sir !

[@Askmediy]

Thank you very very much.

[@richardc2955]

thank you for the refresher i needed it dad passed and he was certified and i forgot this one how to do thanks again .

[@Askmediy]

+Richard C Always my pleasure.

[@rodrigovalenzuela7390]

thank you for your time doing this videos you are a good teacher

[@mikiram9764]

I want to thank u mr. Dominique u safe me a lot of money,did not kown nothing of electricity ,did the 220 three wire for my dryer the home I bot did not have 220 outlet had a gas one,older home.

[@KonshiousOne]

Yeah i must say you have helped me on a major maintenance job and upped my knowledge level...keep teaching.

[@2-old-Forthischet]

You should always connect the wires at the breaker as the last step, just in case the main or individual breaker fails. I have seen brand new breakers fail right out of the box.

[@twoweeledsoto6072]

curious. If the brand new breaker fails, what's the difference if you connect at the beginning or the end?

[@2-old-Forthischet]

@@twoweeledsoto6072 if you're trusting the breaker to keep the current off, well good luck. In fact, last week I was replacing a light switch for my GF. I usually just turn the light switch off and place some tape on it so no one can accidentally throw it on. Even with that, I still check for voltage at the bulb. I did my usual routine of placing some tape on the switch and found out there was still 50vac at the junction box!. Apparently, someone installed a "lighted" switch. In the case of the new breaker, even though the switch was thrown to the "off" position, it was still allowing voltage through onto the wires. Yes, it was brand new out of the box.

[@twoweeledsoto6072]

@@2-old-Forthischet I may have misunderstood. The host connected the breaker first, then went on to connect the plug. The main was off the entire time. I thought you said the breaker should be installed last, implying to connect plug first, then the breaker last. My thought is, if the main is off (and operating correctly), you're not getting zapped either way. If the main is faulty (and power still going through), you're going to get zapped regardless of what order you install. Unless I'm missing something? I always use a tester, even after hitting the breakers😂 Always!

[@seanharte4479]

Love this Guy!!! Going to be installing a heater in the garage soon that is 220v. Now if Dom could show me how to easily run the wires "through the house" I'd be in heaven. (Someday there will be "wireless" electrical cords). Thanks for all the insight. Used your advice many times (hardwood floors, etc....)

[@leedo777]

Great video. If you're interested. Can you do a video on how to diagnose non -working half hots and switches with unknown destination s. I have three single pole switches in on box. 1st switch on far left goes to an unknown destination, 2nd switch goes to a fan light combo,(works fine). 3rd switch goes to a half hot that doesnt work. I have odd readings. On the red switched leg on both non-working switches, I'm showing 48V (switch is off) On the line black hot, I'm showing 77V and an additional 48V on the outlet screw where it connects to. 60htz on both black and red switched legs. ( Tested with wires disconnected from switch). It's a puzzle wrapped in a riddle. Even thought was trained in electrical work in the late 70's to mid 80's, I did mostly commercial work. I still have no problem installing just about anything electrical.( currently installing two sub panels and a bunch of new outlets in my garage.) However, I'm perplexed with this problem. There's more to the riddle if you're interested. If your wondering ,this was a brand new home in 05.

[@dkannegi]

Thanks for the video, was a good confirmation as I installed two 50 amp receptacles beside my main service panel in the garage. If one abides by the electrical codes, doing their own work is massively cheaper than hiring out. I would recommend having a multimeter as a minimum on top of the test light as it can resistance check the connections. Ideally I would ring the circuit with a megger it at 600V+ (eventually I will get one as I am picky) prior to breaker turn on, but then again this is mickey mouse 120V/240V on dry land... not 450/600V with thousands of amps behind it on board a ship.

[@Ranger42]

Excellent instructional video. First one I found that actually explains difference between 3 and 4 wire 220. Thank you!

[@Askmediy]

+Ranger42 Thank you so much. I do try.

[@mokeimusic]

@@Askmediy Yes great video,answered exactly what i needed

[@johndavies2949]

Is that on a 2 pole gfi breaker as required by code for electric dryers?

[@bihlover80s33]

What I usually say for people like you is a little man makes big jobs. Very clear and beneficial video of how to. Now, my question is, is it possible to extend the wire . My problem is that I have plan to remodel my kitchen and to move stove 3 - 4 feet further instead of running new wire from the box. Thanks for your help as always ,

[@Askmediy]

Yes you can by using a junction box. However that box by code must be accessible somewhere. Perhaps via a cabinet or even in a basement ceiling.

[@bihlover80s33]

+askmediy . Thank you very much for your help. I've received notification about your reply just on time. Once again , big thanks.

[@dannysmith5937]

Hey Dom, your videos are very helpful and has taught me a lot! Thanks

[@jamiephillips3947]

thanks so much..... never done electrical before and needed to install a dryer plug in my house. thanks to your video I did it on my own

[@jamiewolak]

this video was very clear and helpful. thank you for taking the time to make it

[@ElMilusosenelgabacho]

one of the best explain and entertaining videos keep doing videos like this dom amorosso thanks a lot!!!

[@Askmediy]

+pacohouston2 Just one of them, and not the best? LOL... Yes always making them. Thank you very much.

[@orekanize]

excellent videos, bro im ready to help my parents install a 220v outlet for my dads welding machine. your making me look good bro. keep on teaching god bless you

[@Askmediy]

Thank you very much.

[@carrollalexander2032]

thank that what I call a good teacher I been wacthing your videos from Connecticut

[@Askmediy]

First, sorry for the delay. For some reason I'm not getting notified of incoming comments. Thank you very much from NY near Danbury CT

[@H0MEDADDY]

Great video! Couple questions though. Since the ground bus bar and common bus bar are connected making them essentially the same, could you not connect both common and ground to the same bus bar? And, What is the difference between common and ground?

[@carlsaiyed1097]

Thanks for sharing this video. Well made, everything explained clearly. Cheers!

[@spentplanet8067]

Thanks a lot for your videos! Say I have a 3 wire cord of the proper gauge coming from my wire and have a 4 wire receptacle. Can i simply not wire the neutral?

[@ailtonoliveira6775]

Ground the 4x4 outlet metal box didn’t see that step, nice video great explanation.

[@Askmediy]

Yeah I did, and thank you very much.

[@viajero31]

THANKS GOOD JOB LEARNING A LOT FROM YOU

[@Askmediy]

+NELSON ALVARADO Thank you. Always my pleasure.

[@gq-rod3025]

Awesome video, I have a question, is it required according to NEC to use a pigtail to ground that metal box? or is that only needed when using conduit for the feeder wire?

[@nrfa6229]

Another great video. Thank you for giving me this link to watch. Very informative. I've seen the comments that you're talking about.. All haters, plus they don't provide proof in their own video. All talk. Please keep doing what you are. You've helped me out a lot. Thanks again.

[@Askmediy]

+Nrfa Sure thing. If I can get a camera man today I'll be making more.

[@nrfa6229]

+askmediy what size wire did you use in this video? Is it a 10 3? Thanks.

[@nrfa6229]

+askmediy what's your thoughts on solar power panels to power, say a pole barn? Thanks?

[@Askmediy]

+Nrfa That would be a #6 wire

[@Askmediy]

+Nrfa Don't really have any. I don't know enough about them.

[@richtracey6829]

Thanks Don,thats some good information.

[@Askmediy]

+Rich Tracey Always my pleasure.

[@joncarbone]

Careful opening that panel. I once had a client yell at me, 'are you an electrician?! Do you have a permit for that!?' I had to get in there to hook up 220 for a drum sander. Why? Because the dude didn't have an accessible outlet, gas stove and dryer. Nevertheless, great video.

[@mlwilmot]

Great video but you did not bond the ground to the box? Thx

[@sonpit]

mlwilmot I was thinking the same thing but I guess it’s grounded through the plug itself. Remember that flat piece of bare copper that was connected to where the ground wire went into? I’m assuming that grounds the box but only if the plug is actually screwed into the box.

[@Foche_T._Schitt]

Yes, the box must be bonded to the ground, not through the face plate.

[@souporsam]

Thanks for the video sir! Not only very in depth, but fun and entertaining also.

[@mechas4294]

Thank you so much! Excellent lesson.

[@fredsmith6160]

I now understand this. I need a 220v outlet for my Everlast welders.

[@Askmediy]

Good deal

[@Gunjji]

awesome video, even made me laugh when you threw in the breaker.

[@Ojeramup12]

I can't find that tester on Amazon. Where did you buy it. I like it because it is simple to use.

[@johnpaul89]

What gauge wire are you using here? Thanks for the lesson!

[@dakotalayinlow]

looks like 10 gauge..could be 8

[@shawnrobinson6783]

BEST VIDEOS I'VE SEEN ON WIRING. GREAT JOB!!!! THANKS!!!!

[@johnmunoz5336]

Nice clean work. I just like watching the videos.

[@Askmediy]

+John Munoz Awesome. thank you very much.

[@Weakshot24]

Thank you for this video and great explanation. If I am using a multimeter to check my voltage, does it matter which probes I use to check the hots/neutral/ground? Thanks again for the great video.

[@Askmediy]

+Weakshot24 Not really.this is AC if it was DC than yes. But not all meters are the same.

[@Weakshot24]

+askmediy ok. Thank you and thanks for your timely response!

[@jeffostroff]

I still prefer to also bond the metal outlet box to ground, even though you get the ground by screwing the outlet plate onto the front of the box. It really is no extra work to take that ground wire as it enters the metal outlet box, and loop it around a green ground screw to the outlet box. Now you are bonded to ground whether or not the outlet port is screwed in place. This buys you more safety because the box is only bonded to ground as long as the outlet is screwed to it. What if someone puts in some stupid outlet that the plate is not connected to ground? Supposing some moron put sin a new outlet port and forgets to connect the ground wire? Then you no longer have have a ground-bonded outlet box, and this problem is far riskier in your case where the outlet box is on a wall out in the open where a kid can touch it and get shocked if there is a fault in the wiring inside. But if you had wrapped the ground wire around a screw, your box is bonded to ground no matter what else happens.

[@Foche_T._Schitt]

It must be bonded to the box anyway by code. This is why you don't take youtube video's at face value.

[@martinrosanna]

This tutorial is awesome! Thank you! What gauge wire are you using for the "HOTS"?

[@fkdurmoms]

12 i think

[@CM-oy2kd]

Higher amperage lower gauge wire

[@ronmerkus5941]

Thats a 10/3 wire guage with the bond

[@red95dj]

Great teacher man! Thank you awesome vid

[@inyafase]

A most informative video. Thank you. Seeing that the neutral wire on the 4 wire 220V outlet comes from the common neutral bus bar, could I convert a 3 wire 220V outlet into a 4 wire 220V outlet by "stealing" the neutral wire from a 20-amp 110V outlet (which will be decommissioned) next to it? I understand that this is not the right way to do it, but feeding a 10-3 w/ gnd cable is not a possibility at the moment. The 20-amp outlet is using 12awg wire, while the existing 3 wire 220V outlet is using 10awg wire. How harmful would it be to use the 12awg neutral cable from the 20-amp outlet for the 4-wire 30-amp outlet?

[@Askmediy]

Don't even think about.. Sorry to say.

[@inyafase]

askmediy Any reason why?

[@Askmediy]

Martin Charles For a four wire you'll need all four wires. Two hots, one neutral and one ground. No other choice.

[@simplypumps2382]

Isn't there a requirement to ground the metal outlet box? I noticed you connected the ground wire directly to the outlet without running a separate ground wire from the outlet box using a green screw. Could you please clarify?

[@FrodoOne1]

At 11:10 he shows that the Ground connection of the Socket is connected to the metal plate on which it is installed. Hence, connecting the Ground wire grounds the metal plate and when the plate is installed in the box, it too is grounded - as shown when tested at the end.

[@sunilgiri3432]

Just wondering if the connection would be same for the kitchen electrical Stove? Would really appreciate you help on this. Thank you

[@forkandspoonoperator]

i would have liked to hear someone speak about balancing the panel load. which side you place new breakers based on other branch breaker loads. is that overkill safety standards and not worth considering?

[@Askmediy]

It's a 220 / 240 breaker. It uses both hot legs.

[@DOMINION4x4]

thanks for your all your videos, You are a true Professional.

[@Askmediy]

Alright, you made my night. Thank you so so much.

[@forkandspoonoperator]

i thought they didn't count the ground when naming wire number? meaning it is actually a three wire. true according to trade standards?

[@mickmick4534]

please advise me on the proper way to run and install a 40a breaker? I assume to a MLC-8 light controller and what gague wire? About a 40' run. Thanks Your videos are entertaining and informative!

[@thisoldnew4544]

Am I able to wire 220V in Parallel from my Dryer to my garage? Distance from Panel to the Dryer is 30 feet. Distance from Dryer to shop area of my garage is 30 feet. Or can I make my own 220V "Extension Cord" until I get a more permanent fix?

[@ctorres441]

very good Video, question if I have 208/120v panel in commercial building, can I install 240V. Dryer Machine?

[@rizzotto139]

Thanks dude!! Great vid

[@phillipbishop3967]

I have a drier plug like the one you are wiring in this video, I need to make an extension cord with a male plug for this end and a welder plug on the other how do I wire this to work with out burning down my house?

[@michaeldevaney2804]

I want to re-route the wiring from a 30 amp outlet to a 30 amp fused disconnect box for a mini split install. The wiring to the outlet is 4 wire with a bare wire ground. The disconnect box accepts line 1 and line 2 and a ground wire on the line side. Since the existing cable is 4 wire And I only need 2 hot and one ground wire I was going to just wire nut the white wire and leave it in the disconnect box. Is this proper?

[@mpaz48mo]

Hi Dominick, great video. I purchased a used 240v/15amp countertop griddle for my foodtruck and I'm in the process of installing it but I notice that it has a regular 120v 3-pronged plug on it, which I don't think is original. Should I change it to a nemo 6 plug and bring the wire gauge to 12 to be safe or can I hook it up the way it is? Thanks, Michael.

[@Kiddro22]

Does the gauge of wire depend on how long the line will be from the box? Or does it depends on the current draw period no matter how long the line is?

[@workingshlub8861]

voltage drop only applys to real long runs...you wont have a issue in the average home.

[@28lees]

Thanks Don helped a lot.

[@chriskelly6769]

Very Nice....Concise and Precise.

[@Askmediy]

Thank you very much.

[@fgriffintx]

Great video, Dominick! I like your no-nonsense approach and safety cautions. If you can deal with a couple of dumb questions here goes. I need to add a 220V circuit in the garage for a heavy-duty tool, but the panel in the garage is full. Can I cannibalize two house circuits and make the 220V? Can you add more than one 220V receptacle on the one circuit (using only one at a time, of course). Is there any such thing as a 220V extension cord?

[@jareds7969]

5:14 It's a 50 amp breaker. :)

[@brucebear1]

Hard to tell on a video but it looks like it, also it looks like a 30-Amp NEMA 14-30S socket. But what could go wrong????

[@jareds7969]

Of course nothing could go wrong. :D

[@Independent-xl3st]

@@jareds7969 For large appliances the breaker should closely track the nominal amperage. So, for NEMA 14-30, the dude had to install a 30A breaker. That's to the code. But of course, most likely nothing bad will happen :-)

[@StarPathAcademy]

Great job explaining!

[@oilsmokejones3452]

Thanks for the great instruction and getting right to the point..I understand the procedure but it's electronically confusing...how is "neutral" different from "ground"..in other words how is this different electronically from 3 wire single phase 220...??

[@bennettdavid904]

Neutral or "common" goes back to the electrical pole ( transformer ) on the street, so it can alternate back to your house. The ground goes into the ground, and is considered a safety to prevent electrical fires. 220 volts are more energy efficient than 115 volts also. If your interested in electricity take a course in your city's technical school.

[@oilsmokejones3452]

bennettdavid904 OK thanks for clearing that up..yes, you might say I'm interested in electricity..

[@bennettdavid904]

Different manufacturers will make different plugs, but they all should be interchangeable, generally 4 wires is 3 phase and 3 wires is single phase.

[@bennettdavid904]

Im confused by what you mean by mortgaging the house. Can you elaborate?

[@QuaabQueb]

Oilsmoke Jones Essentially they are the same thing, however they serve different purposes, as the other person said, the NEUTRAL goes back to the panel, and then back to one of the wires that comes in to your house from the street (service entrance) it's the wire with no insulation, but if you traced that wire back up to the transformer you would see that is also is sent to ground. The GROUND wire in your panel goes either to a grounding rod somewhere outside your house that should be driven at least 8 feet in to the ground, or tied as close as possible to your main water line entrance if it is a copper pipe since it runs very deep in the ground it offers good conductivity. Now again, if you look in your panel you will notice that the GROUND wire going to your ground rod or water pipe, and your NEUTRAL wire coming in from the street are connected by the grounding terminal! WTF?!?! You would only see this in your main panel, never if you had a sub-panel that would be in your garage, or pool shack etc... to run more power for a few more receptacles in a dedicated area. In a sub-panel the NEUTRAL and GROUND terminal blocks MUST be electrically separate, the reason for this being like I said, they serve different purposes, the ground wire is there for electrical safety, so if a load wire came loose and touched upon something metal in your junction box, or metal appliance and energized the metal casing the electricity would take the path of least resistance to ground which would be the ground wire which offers that nice clean path to ground, and not through your body and the floor you are standing on, if you where to touch it. So say the neural and ground where connected in your sub panel, which if it is easier to picture, just think of a standard outlet with a load (power) wire or two if it was a 220V outlet, which is exactly what a sub panel is, a neural wire (return path of unused electricity) and ground which is just there to provide a clean path back to ground. Should it be energized, the ground wire is NOT INSULATED because it is NOT a load bearing wire under normal circumstances, if the ground and neutral where tied together acting as one, or especially if the neutral wire where to break, then the ground wire would be taking the other side of the load and returning it back to the panel, it could over heat and cause a fire.

[@richardp5161]

Grounding for the metal box is accomplished by the ground on the receptacle being screwed onto the metal box? Is this sufficient for 2017 code? I thought that box cover screws were not allowed for grounding.

[@miriammiriamxoxo]

Awesome exactly what I needed to know!!

[@actuallyconsumer3593]

I see you use a twisted pair wire for the dryer. Can you join a twisted pair to solid wire . I want to move the dryer to another location 10 ft away. I am thinking of using a junction box . The old twisted wires seam larger than the 10 -3 wires solid copper I bought. Can it be done

[@sumaya07087]

Hi nice video. I live overseas so the electricity here is all 220 but I have an American dryer that didn't come with a power cord what do u recommend I do and do I need to keep the dryer on its own breaker?

[@daikaiju20]

6:15 Dominick would US electrical code allow you to pigtail more wire if you needed to shift breakers in box and some wires were too short? hope my english ok....

[@Cfine83]

Yes your allowed to extend the wire with a Joint, but it doesn't look good in the Electrical Panel as a final result. Generally you'll install your breakers in the order you want them in to get the room you want, then start landing your wire as a final step of the project. Doing this not only allows you to provide a much neater panel, but also allows you to be safe and not worry about that wire becoming hot while you work on it.

[@1new-man]

Another Masterpiece Dominick!

[@kennycon123]

does it matter where the red and black goes?

[@Foche_T._Schitt]

The box must be grounded with the ground wire...

[@Askmediy]

Thank you so much. More being made

[@cortleyburns]

question though, I got a old house and the plug that's installed is a 3 prong but the stove has 4 and my wire only has 3 can I attach a metal piece to the neutral and attach it to the ground wire?

[@sandro2304]

Is the bare copper and the white essentially going to the same place?

[@Askmediy]

First off sorry for the delay, for some reason I'm not getting emails for comments. Moreless, but not always. Depends if it's going to a main panel or a sub panel

[@Zamfire2000]

I plugged in everything like you said, but after I turned the main on, there was a slight burning smell. Should I be worried?

[@Askmediy]

Yes very. Should never smell anything

[@Zamfire2000]

@@Askmediy Thanks for the reply! I'll have a pro come out and look. :)

[@Zamfire2000]

@@Askmediy Thanks for the help! We got professional help in the end. Turns out the bus had gone bad!

[@sherwoodworks]

Thank you! This was good!

[@blueplanetphotostudio9616]

Hi Dominic, great video, thanks! I have a question. I ran a new 4 wire 220 line and want to use the breaker from an existing (but no longer used 220 line. The appliance I'll be connecting to the circut calls for 220V @15 amps. The existing circuit breaker is rated at 50 amps. Is it OK to use it or should I buy a 15 amp breaker?

[@QuaabQueb]

Blue Planet Photo Studio The amp rating is usually shared between the two poles of the breaker if its a 220/240V breaker, if you looked at a 50A breaker you would probably see each individual pole is marked 25A, (or it could have 50A written across both). meaning each 120V leg could support 25A draw. It's perfectly fine to use a breaker that exceeds the energy requirements of the device you are running, this also means you can connect more 220V appliances in that same circuit and have enough power to power them with out tripping the breaker, just make sure you use cable rated for 50 amps. You would only have problems if your breaker was rated for less then the power your device would be drawing, so say the breaker was rated at 15A and the device pulls 50A of power, the breaker would trip pretty much instantly because the device is pulling way more power then that breaker can give out. If you had a 50A breaker, and you used wire rated for 15A, but exceeded 50A the wire would start to overheat and catch fire before the breaker would trip. The purpose of the breaker is to kill the power before the wire over heats, that's why it is super important to match the gauge of wire with the amperage rating of the breaker.

[@nosferatu49426]

Very helpful, thank you.

[@bobtedford8014]

I enjoy your videos, very informative.

[@Askmediy]

Thank you so much.

[@mr.drivekay5465]

I don't care what ppl say about u. But u the best

[@Askmediy]

LOL Thank you

[@molarband]

can you tell me what type and gauge of romex wire you used? also is that a 50 amp breaker? when is it necessary to put the wire into a conduit? thanks

[@farmerdave7965]

Did I hear you say that a neutral is a return path on a 240 volt circuit ? Are you an electrician ?

[@Askmediy]

I'm sure that's what you heard.

[@cecilyt006]

Nicely done!! VERY helpful!

[@Askmediy]

Thank you so much

[@brkooduh66]

Will an AC's outdoor compressor unit be using a 4-wire 220? What kind of boxes/disconnects are used outside for the outdoor unit? (AC installer is going to charge a bunch of money for the wiring part and I need all the advise I can get) Thanks ... good videos btw

[@FiebreDeOro]

What type of breaker should we use on our panel?

[@ebarlavento]

Hello Askmediy. What if I have only 1 hot line 220v. How do i connect in the 4 prong outlet? thanks for your help

[@damondiehl5637]

You probably need to have a different wire run. The dryer needs to be able to access just one hot wire to run the electronic controls. It uses both hot wires to make the heating element do its thing. If the electricity is all going down one wire, there is no way for the dryer to only use part of the voltage available, and you will fry the dryer.

[@mikemishreki5623]

Thanks Dominic. I've used your videos for a number of installations so far. One question...does the ground wire have to be the same gauge as the hot? I need to install a 30A 220V line for my electric car charger in the garage. Can the ground just be a 12 gauge wire instead of the required 10 gauge?

[@Independent-xl3st]

Nope, it should still be #10. For 30A, 40A and 60A the ground wire should be #10 copper (#8 aluminum).

[@jeneejohnson7510]

I have a 3 prong dryer that comes on but doesn't get hot. I was told I needed a 220 line installed. Do I simply change the plug or is there something I need to change on the breaker box.

[@movieguy7398]

if your dryer is spinning but not getting hot your elements might be out. check both legs for voltage.

[@josemj059]

Hi Dom.i have a question? It is posible to change just the cable on a dryer that it cames with 4 prong. To a 3 prongs. Since the wall outlet is 220 volts.

[@changocheko]

a question why in 220 the 2 hot wires are of different colors red and black

[@jackendbox1]

How deep is that 4" square box? I have a large 50A recepticel that I'll be mounting similiary in a box. I'm concerned with the depth of the box. Using #6 AWG. THHN.

[@ivancasanova9651]

thanks for sharing your knowledge!

[@Askmediy]

Always my pleasure

[@jamesochoa3022]

I have an existing 240v circuit and I need to add a neutral ! Can I run the neutral separate from the rest of the existing wires through a conduit by itself ?

[@Askmediy]

I heard or seen that, but I don't see why not. Just make sure it's the same wire size

[@jamesochoa3022]

askmediy thank you !

[@gamalalgahim]

So nice video Thanks a lot