How To Install A Compression Plug Into A Carbon Steerer Tube | GCN Tech Monday Maintenance

[@gcntech]

Have you ever had to change your bike's compression plug?

[@markagent6186]

Just did it yesterday lol

[@tristanjaydelarosa3011]

When will the winner of wahoo 5th generation kickr be announced?

[@gcntech]

@@tristanjaydelarosa3011 Next week on the GCN show!

[@WtfYoutube_YouSuck]

Yes. I even use them in metal forks because, before cutting, it's easier to experiment with than faffing about with a multiple star bolts. Not Gonna lie...Really upset Olly didn't say the word "Bung" once in this episode.

[@adanielweaver]

I need to in order to cut my steerer, but the problem is getting it out not putting it back in.

[@JayLato]

I’ve crushed 2 Felt Carbon steerer tubes and 2 carbon seat posts on 2 Felt VR’s at it’s recommended 6Nm torque specs. Torque was checked to be correct with 2 Park tool torque wrenches. I’d recommend starting with 4-5Nm on carbon bikes

[@superei8ht2]

Are those settings torquing with grease or not, seems crucial yet often not stated in instructions. Wet or dry torque.

[@Igai99]

Where did you get new forks? :Y I cut mine too short and now im kind of f*****

[@leeoien3645]

1:20 "My bike has a lot of integrated cables and hydraulic lines." What a humble brag that was! :) :) You are still on of my favorites Ollie!!

[@Ovenpunch]

I don’t even have a compression plug.... but I watched the whole video... Oli’s just so good at explaining stuff.

[@mikeygbiscuits]

Yeah same. Won’t have a carbon cockpit anytime soon but I enjoy Oli’s descriptions of his work-throughs

[@faisal_al_saiful3838]

that's phd for ya😅

[@chetlangford2144]

Longer the plug...less of a chance to be snap city!🤪 I always like the one that go past the stem and in the headtube!

[@andrewcornford2306]

The top cap is for setting the preload in the headset bearings, 6nm may not sound much but could easily damage the bearings. Also although the clamp bots have a nm setting it's better to use an alan tool first to get equal loading through the bolts, ie done one bolt so it just tightens then the other, then use the torque tool.

[@chris1275cc]

The 6Nm torque is supposed to be for AFTER the preload and after the stem bolts have been tightened, if this muppet bothered to read the assembly instructions for this or any carbon bike he would know this. DONT follow any GCN how to videos unless its John and even then question it, they do this all the time and never correct or remove the videos.

[@lesterroberts1628]

@@chris1275cc thx chris. I didn't know we had to tighten the stem cap twice. very helpful. I always wondered why it would come loose every few months

[@mohammedsaqib387]

Hi GCN tech, I am really flattered by you guys, i tried to lower my handle bar so i had lose the screw on top of the cap but when i did unscrew the whole compression plug popped out with the inner screw!!!!! I thought i had messed up. Thank you so much guys i was able to bring it back to normal because of you guys!!!

[@durianriders]

Do a video about the main reasons carbon steeerers fail - spacers above the stem which dont allow the plug to go past the bottom bolt of the stem to protect against crushing forces.

[@joeenglert]

do you really need a compression plug after you tighten it properly to insure the headset and the rest is tight,,,afte all, those screws in the stem are tight enoght to safely keep the bars from slipping ,, so why not just take out the compression cap after everything is snug and secure,,,it doesnt really do anything else at that point,, does it??

[@codexTu]

@@joeenglert compression plugs reinforced the fork where the stems tighten

[@Megadeth6633]

@@joeenglert the expander is there to reinforce the steerer, and it's secondary job is to adjust the headset. If you don't put the expander in the right spot, the steerer will get crushed at some point or another, and you will lose some teeth

[@JayLato]

I’ve crushed 2 Felt Carbon steerer tubes and 2 carbon seat posts on 2 Felt VR’s at it’s recommended minimum 6Nm torque specs. Torque was checked to be correct with 2 Park tool torque wrenches. I’d recommend starting with 4-5Nm on carbon bikes

[@HulaBoy75]

This!!!! Plus spacers above the stem look wank!

[@mbdsgn]

OMG, 6Nm on top cap... have you moved bars after you tightened that bolt Ollie? You only need finger tight that top cap bolt to compress bearings.

[@1973honza]

That's what I thought but I still had some wobble in my headset. Only after tightening to 5 Nm it finally stopped.

[@Aniqa101]

@@1973honza Sure that your bearings aren't worn out?

[@dickieblench5001]

Pre load the bearings first by pushing down on the stem

[@Jay-Jo4580]

Just adjust it to 5nm 5nm is the Standard torque never adjust it finger tight it will wobble or loose bearings don't break down no matter how much torque it can withstand 15nm to stop the bearings from functioning always torque the top cap 6nm and the stem bolt adjust it to 5nm ❤❤

[@rp6760]

6Nm on top cap will crush the headset bearings!! Turn on feeling to eliminate only the play on headset bearing. No more If 6Nm is printed on any part of your bike, it means you can go to up to 6Nm. ....

[@chris1275cc]

You cant tell these "experts" mate, the fact he greased that plug bolt means he's at least 10% (probably more like 30) over the reading on his torque wrench. This is why my bikes NEVER go anywhere near a bike "mechanic" they know as much about engineering as I do about quantum physics. 🤣

[@arifazhari7598]

@@chris1275cc yeah man , as someone with engineering background. I no longer trust my bike to bike shop mechanic. Only when replacing that aren't torque specific. When it comes to components that requires 3 up to 6 Nm torque i would not let them get their Gruby little hands.

[@maximfournier-giguere5780]

Seriously, 6nm for the top cap bolt? That seems excessive unless Orbea has some sort of wave washer somewhere in the bearing stack! What about the usual advice of "tight enough to remove play" that you gave in previous videos?

[@adamisherwood2272]

*Orbea, but yeah that does seem massively high!

[@ernie12man]

Somewhat common. I've swapped frames a few times in recent years and had 6mm on Lynskey w.Enve fork, Fuji Jari, and Breezer Inversion, both use the FC440 fork (Fuji), and a recent ICAN Triaeo X-gravel fork too.

[@tychoMX]

I agree, but if the damn thing says 6 Nm I would follow it. Not sure why it's so high and I'd double check on the manual, but no way I'd second guess that. Maybe the compression sleeve is different than a normal assembly?!

[@maximfournier-giguere5780]

@@ernie12man I'm surprised you mentioned the Enve fork. When you check their online instructions regarding the fork, the top cap torque they give as a guideline is 1.5 nM.

[@ianphil397]

Because where the rider puts downward pressure on the bars, that force is in front of the stem it creates a moment around the top cap bolt where there is upwards pressure on the rear of the bolt and downwards pressure on the front of the bolt. if you under-torque the top cap bolt road vibrations will stretch this bolt unevenly and the bolt will fail from metal fatigue at a much lower force than its rated for. There will be a reasonable window of over torque before you start damaging the carbon so don't worry that 6nm feels high. Definitely follow the manufacturers guidelines; they've done the engineering.

[@leebridgwater]

Thanks Ollie, perfect timing for my new carbon fork - steerer

[@Peter-om1zj]

***Good video but should have included abuot uncut steerers (very common) and how the compression plug doesn't do its job if the stem is sitting higher OR lower than where the plug is !!!

[@endofthelinex1]

how so? genuine question as I just winged it. Stem is slammed but steerer uncut, so your description fits my bike. But I was able to eliminate all play from the bearings with the expander at the top of the steerer anyway

[@Peter-om1zj]

@@endofthelinex1 the point of the expander plug is to sit inside the fork and position itself so that the stem clamps around it. So that when you tighten the stem, you are not tightening it around a hollow tube, but a hollow tube no longer made hollow by the metal expander plug. Imagine no plug and tightening the stem - what would that do to the carbon fork ? Crush it. So, the stem needs to clamp around the fork centered around where the plug is. A slammed stem with a chimney on top means that it is unlikely the expander plug can drop low enough to do its job. If a model of plug that can drop low and is tightened too low and them stem sitting high with spacers below - the same problem can happen. Hope that helps. Don't crush your forks !!!

[@Tuslareb]

Fabio290 you should fix that as soon as possible. The situation you describe is really dangerous if you have a carbon steerer. Cut your steerer tube, or get your stem higher in the meanwhile.

[@endofthelinex1]

@Godzilla Hårddisksson Never got the notifications of the earlier replies for some reason. Rode like that for half a year 🤪 luckily I don't weigh a lot lmao, so nothing happened. This winter I got the steerer cut at my lbs anyway as I had confirmed my position and wanted to get rid of the chimney. So all good here (luckily)

[@scare1024]

6nm through the top cap on the bearings? I only hand tighten so that there is no play in the headset bearings. Isn’t 6nm the max spec. instead of the spec. for loading he bearings?

[@garyfodden5034]

Yep totally agree with you Paul, only tighten top cap screw until headset play is gone

[@jakethesnake1976]

6Nm is not a lot to be fair

[@garyfodden5034]

@@jakethesnake1976 the point of the top cap screw is to preload the headset bearing's not torque to a specific amount

[@Aniqa101]

@@jakethesnake1976 It is. I tightened the top cap with under 2 Nm after installing new bearings.

[@kristov9090]

Indeed! Hand tight. 6nm is too much.

[@larsborgman3443]

And still no one someone talks about the slammed stem problem. Either cut it or run a long compression plug

[@sufyansaleem9771]

Worst part is there are people who go round saying you can just tighten the stem then take it out.

[@richardhaselwood9478]

@@sufyansaleem9771 Wait, what?????? A major structural component, "Just take it out"?

[@chris1275cc]

The 6Nm on the top cap is the FINAL max torque AFTER you have set your bearing preload and secured the stem bolts. The max headset preload is 2Nm. Maybe try reading the assembly manual of this or any modern carbon bike before you instruct everyone in how to crush headset bearings and potentially damage the bearing seats of their expensive carbon frames.🤬😡🤬😡

[@MattRose30000]

Thought so. I've learned that the initial preload should be carefully eyeballed just so that there is no play between the steerer tube and the bearings. Makes sense since you don't want to clamp the bearings together with force, which makes it hard to steer at all.

[@chris1275cc]

@@cracked229 You preload the bearings by feel to eliminate any play never by torque 6Nm will "brunel" the bearing. Once you have done that you tighten the stem bolts, THEN you apply 6Nm (or whatever) to the cap so it doesn't vibrate loose. Maybe ask for clarification next time rather than accusing people of not knowing what they are talking about, you look less of a tool that way. 😉

[@Mathiasbendiksen]

⁠@@chris1275cc Even i didnt know this 😮 i will try🫡 But my Brand (darebikes) manual or top cap has no torque spec, just 5nm stem bolts.

[@chris1275cc]

@@Mathiasbendiksen Once the stem bolts are done up, torqueing the top cap is mostly just to stop it coming loose, and its not critical. A good rule of thumb is use the same torque for the top cap as for the stem bolts (so 5 in your case). The only time you really have to be carful is if the top cap its self is carbon (or a very thin lightweight Aluminium type), or the bolt is Aluminium. If its just a standard top cap as long as you keep in under 10Nm it will be fine, anymore than that and it could start pulling the plug/star-nut up the steerer which will "chew up" the inside.

[@Jerecek]

@@chris1275ccwell even if you tigthen top cap after stem bolts, it still might pull out compression plug 🙋🏻‍♂️

[@shenzhenauxooutdoorgoods]

Hi, finally found a great video, good news for bicycle lovers, thank you！🙂welcome to travel to China 👏👏👏

[@ZOB4]

You're just going to leave that 6nm indication on the top cap off to the left like that huh? That's definitely not going to drive you crazy or anything.

[@Sir-Prizse]

I followed the instructions and tightened the new and longer compression plug with 7 nm, which unfortunately caused the fork shaft to break.

[@tubehabit]

Extremely helpful. Thank you.

[@ianphil397]

The reason you want to make sure it isn't under torqued is because it will increase the chance the bolt will shear off from metal fatigue.

[@maxj2531]

I've to replace mine tomorrow !!!! This tuto is a benediction many thanks !!!!

[@ianmangham4570]

Amen 🙏

[@jirihutecka9020]

Ollie looks like Bryan Adams with his wild hair style. :D

[@zedtony8110]

You should make sure the bars are straight before tightening the stem bolts up not last as you did

[@sloblock1972]

Thanks for this video, I just bought my first bike carbon bike with a a carbon steerer and wanted to adjust the spacer stack. I took the bars and stem off and encountered my first compression bung. "WTF is that??!!" I thought. Manual said adjustment requires "specialist tools" and that I need to take it to a LBS. I can see now by "specialist tools" they meant a torque wrench...

[@ryand141]

Which compression plug is it?

[@ebbulk]

I have been waiting on a vid on this topic! I wanted to lower the plug on my bike, but there's literally no info on if this is possible and how, so didn't dare to tinker around with it and mess things up.

[@jedaiahkramer1204]

Here to confirm torque. From what I've read & watched, torque can range from extremes of 3Nm to 7Nm depending on the thickness of the carbon steerer and the manufacturer. However, most people have recommended 4.5Nm to 5.5Nm for the plug, then match that torque spec with the top cap and the stem. I'm working with my first carbon steerer, so I'll report back if my 5Nm all around gives me problems.

[@hewertonrodrigues]

thank u GCN tech helped me a lot here in Brazil

[@mael5405]

Hello, i've had problems recently with my steerer plug. Addict RC, 2021 (1"1/4 steerer) even with some carbon paste, torqued at the right torque, my expended slips into the steerer tube while i screw the compression screw on the top cap... I don't want to over tighten it! It's like if it can't grip enough on the inside of the steerer tube, gives some play on the head tube, not ideal!

[@IFrancyISantosI]

could i use these carbon steerer plugs for metal forks? looks way easier than the old methods with the plug insertion

[@johndef5075]

When installing expander isnt it advisable to have stem fit loosely so that the expander doesn't bulge out the fork? Ive seen Leuscher install one into a unsupported fork. The carbon bulges to the point where he couldn't slide spacers past it. Im installing mine with stem fitted but not torqued all the way.

[@jeffdavis5841]

If installed correctly and maintained correctly, for what reason would you need to replace an existing compression plug?

[@maximfournier-giguere5780]

You need to reinstall it if you cut the fork. But otherwise, you do it once and forget about it pretty much forever unless you need to inspect the inside of your steerer

[@KissTheGreat]

This is about a year late for me 🤣 Have a relatively cheap bike (£850) with a carbon tube, got it wrong, broke the compression plug (thankfully didn’t crack the tube), but had to get a new plug and replace it after I found this info elsewhere.

[@eliezerbringas6004]

Can I use that compression plug to my alloy fork?Thanks

[@dommy7077]

Nope. Use the star nut he mentioned early in the video.

[@chris1275cc]

Yes you can and it makes life so much easier if you ever need to remove it, getting a star nut out is a PITA.

[@cherriagana]

Compression plug just made me pull my hair out, the topcap for me was the thing that holds the plug to the top so I unscrewed the topcap and had the compression plug and bottem nut fall in the fork and get stuck xD

[@tomrachellesfirstdance7843]

Got to say internal cables look wicked but when it comes to something like this it must be a nightmare.

[@askdad]

thank you for detailed video. I plan to replace the form on electric mtb and wonder which one is better to use starnut or the Compression Plug ?

[@groovy_bear]

2:56 You're right Ollie, it just feels so much better when it's tight...

[@mrfailure93]

This was enjoyable at 1.5 speed.

[@ianmangham4570]

That bike looks quick

[@MarkJanmelAboy]

Can you use a compressor plug on a aluminum or steel steerer tube

[@ryand141]

Why would you want to? This is only so carbon will not crack and then snap, sending you flying at 70km an hour. Aluminium and steel will not break off completely.

[@ben9008]

So my sleeve is stuck into the steerer tube as well as the bottom bottom wedge... please help, how will I go about getting it out safely Thanks!

[@gregplympton9682]

I know this post is old and im sure you figured it out by now, but lets go old school here. Remember threaded forks and stems that had a bolt that tightened a wedge inside the steerer tube? Simple answer,loosen the bolt and give it a whack with a hammer,knocks the bottom wedge out and it falls out,same idea,give it a try,good luck

[@robwood3976]

Need a bit of help with this. I'm about to replace my aluminium forks with carbon inc the steerer tube. To date I'm totally bogged down with the minefield of what's available. The bung you are using in this vid would seem to be the one I require, my simple question is: What make is it? Regards

[@cqa06]

Omg thank you so much

[@DebonairOnline]

Good video. A traditional stem and spacer setup may have been a better choice since it would be more relatable to more people.

[@lesterroberts1628]

yes. i was wondering does the expansion plug need to support the stem? my fork is long and uncut so the expansion plug sits above the stem

[@rickaristotlejorge2618]

Will a compression plug work on a aluminum steerer tube?

[@grumpythumbs8703]

probably but why?? star thingy is lighter and better

[@Alwaysunderablanket]

The question I was left with is how do you get the compression plug out in the first place? Surely as you reduce the compression it slides down inside the tube? Anyone able to enlighten me?

[@DennisKrger]

As far as I can tell, it would sit on top of the steerer tube. Notice the lip on the compression plug when it's assembled. It also seems a bit hollowed out on top, so I guess a finger should be able to grip it.

[@memoj.7273]

Usually how much is the tensile torque (N/m) setting for the headset expander compression plug (by using torque wrench) if i installed in an aluminum fork tube? Thanks..

[@lwittrock1]

Great video!

[@bartekkwiatkowski4278]

I screwed plug too much and it came all the way through plug tunnel. Could i damage carbon thet way ?

[@Brappasauras]

When are we gonna find out if mullets are more aero?

[@martincaron3546]

🤣🤣🤣

[@wazirtan6801]

Thanks Alot GCN!Taught me the right way to tighten up,now i have a piece of mind to later 👍👍

[@1afterthep]

if I only put one 10mm spacer on top I should be fine, right? or should I get a longer expansion plug?

[@sbccbc7471]

As long as the stem is clamping reinforced steerer tube, a few mm worth of spacers above is OK, but I'd personally go for 10 mm tops.

[@ianmangham4570]

Yup ,the longer and beefier the better a plug is but that will do fine

[@Tuffjobs]

What is the actual function of the compression plug. You seem to be saying it’s to load the steerer bearings. Others say it’s to protect the steerer from cracking under load from the stem and bars when riding? I’m confused! That plug looks too short to protect the steerer if that’s the objective?

[@vmsrosa]

Hello GCN, somewhat related to this matter, would it be possible to do a video showing how to replace a regular stem and headset by ones which allow integrated cable and hoses routing (including the specifics regarding the top and bottom bearings)? Thank you

[@jonathanzappala]

You can’t, the bike has to be made for a headset that is big enough to route cables. So the bike you have won’t have a big enough headset. FSA/vision have the ACR system, but the bike has to be made for the acr headset.

[@johnbagofdoughnuts9610]

If the compression plug bolt is tightened with an allen key, what does the top cap bolt screw into? Thx

[@plixplux]

Logical question =) The compression plug bolt has a fitting for a 6mm allen key, and is then hollow and threaded for the 5mm top cap bolt.

[@jedisdad2265]

Nice avoidance of “LUBE” Dr. Bridgewood!

[@VIDEOWRECKINGCREW]

I’m such an idiot I thought the top cap bolt tightened the whole thing didn’t realise there was a bolt underneath... thank you 🙏🏻

[@gcntech]

Glad you know now!

[@vsptvmematalk2997]

Nice tips bro godbless

[@baskruitnl]

I ride a steel bike for a reason and this is another confirmation that I'd better stick with steel. Carbon just seems so fragile.

[@leeryna118]

tq for the info

[@gifmalaza2050]

can you use compression plug to an aluminum steerer tube? newbie question

[@chris1275cc]

Yes

[@sniTschcore]

The Topcap to 6nm?😮 Isnt it just to idjust the headset, so it istn loose? The bearings lifetime is very low, if you tighten them to much

[@rhuirainsahagun3638]

Can a normal star nut fit in a carbon fork?

[@chris1275cc]

No it will "fit" but it will also cut into the tube and cause a stress riser

[@RollingAroundwNicknAmanda]

My top cap bolt is stuck in my compression plug bolt!

[@996driver1]

Your workshop looks like Santa Clause raided Park Tools...I am envious

[@jp321p8]

thanks i realised my bottom bit for the plug dropped in my fork lol

[@danieljackson182]

My compression plug slides sometimes couple mm. after extremely bumpy rides. When I have to ask the manufacturer how tight I should screw it, the response was - as tight as I can :P

[@tychoMX]

Had the same experience with a fat bike. Those big tires and big bumps make for a load much larger than a road bike!

[@ernie12man]

A lot tighter than it was. Steerer tubes are seriously strong, lock in up good and snug so the top cap can be tightened well to snug the fork up well. Then also tighted the stem and use carbon assembly paste if you have carbon to carbon or metal. The smooth carbon can and will slip easier against other things without it . It's got grit in to help grab and stay put.

[@53pp0]

Why on earth is the top cap screw part of the expander at Canyon bikes. This one is so much better!

[@jameswaring2860]

You got a Canyon? I’ve had issues with my expander. Some really soft plastic parts that seemed to warp when tightening :/

[@53pp0]

@@jameswaring2860 Same here

[@jameswaring2860]

Sebastian Wefers You ever find a solution? I couldn’t find any good information online.

[@philadams9254]

It doesn't look long enough to me, considering all the spacers?

[@JohnLumapaskeith]

Can I use an aluminum compression plug on a carbon tube?

[@ianmangham4570]

Yes

[@JohnLumapaskeith]

@@ianmangham4570 thanks, mate. I had it installed last year. Works like a charm 😁

[@elvisderblasehase9522]

Original Cannondale compression plug incl. topcap is 40 gramm. Aliexpress compression plug is 7 gramm and long enough. Extralite topcap and screw 7 gramm. Any thoughts? 🙈

[@georgehugh3455]

I can make you one out of styrofoam -

[@Rover200Power]

Did you check the calibration of your torque wrench before using it?

[@joffbrown]

I thought you was going to do a video of how to cut down a carbon steerer tube get get rid of ‘the Chimney’ as Manon calls it, or have I missed it ?

[@MrJlambo54]

All you need is to measure and take a hacksaw or cutout tool to it. As long as the blade will cut carbon you have no issue. I just did mine yesterday, waiting on a new compression sleeve just to be sure I dont kill myself 🤣

[@baggid6257]

I dont even have a carbon bike, and im watching this.

[@shenzhenauxooutdoorgoods]

Then, do you have a carbon fiber bike now ?😀

[@MrJhaas1]

Go Ollie:)

[@alfredneuman7665]

6 nm sounds like a heavy pre load,

[@georgehugh3455]

Decent job, *but incomplete instructions, Ollie.* Needed to cover those situations where there's many spacers below the stem (where you can't just "drop" the expander in), or the alternative where you may be experimenting with stem position and have a chimney (refer to comment by @Peter Peter). The expander must be where the stem tightens on the steerer AND the play must be taken out of the headset, bearings, etc.

[@rmm2000]

Where's John?

[@simonjandrell5897]

thats where i was going wrong with my Bucklos Oil Forks expander cap.. Oops!

[@aliciawaller8095]

I’m enjoying the bike so far kzbin.infoUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA My only real complaints are the brakes and the pedals. I feel like a bike designed for bigger people should have much larger pedals and more heavy duty brakes. I’ve only gotten two really good rides out of it, minimal downhill action, and the brakes feel like they’re already going out. A larger person has more momentum, so I think this wasn’t thought through very well. Also, I wear size 13-14 wide shoes. My feet cramp up on these pedals that are clearly made for smaller feet. Since I’m not a pro rider (and I don’t think many are who purchase this bike) I don’t think that the straps on the pedal are necessary at all. None of this takes away from the enjoyment I get from riding, however. I’ll just head to a bike shop to improve on a few things.

[@fraserp2377]

Is it just me or is this system full of opportunity for user failure. Old system seems a lot more simple.

[@richardjdeighton5894]

Needs a peer review Olly... Once the stem is clamped onto the steerer to maintain headset 'preload', the plug is only needed for retaining the cap as a 'dust cover'!

[@georgehugh3455]

Dangerous myth - the plug helps maintain the steerer tube integrity with the stem clamped down on it, particularly when you cinch it up every few months to make sure the stem bolts are tightened to spec

[@sevegarza]

The main purpose of the compression plug is to be the anchor for the top cap which is needed to compress the headset bearings. That's the whole point of the assembly, to compress the bearings. The reinforcement of the stem is a nice bonus. Lol "just a dust cover". The top cap is the most important part because it's what's actually puting load on the bearings.

[@chris1275cc]

@@sevegarza NO you are spreading dangerous information, on carbon tubes the plugs primary purpose is to resist the crushing force of the stem and setting the bearing preload is secondary to that. Once the preload has been set the stem bolts hold that preload and the top cap becomes the LEAST important part of the assembly.

[@Demon09-_-]

I run a longer one just for insurance. Id rather not become the statistic that starts a recall for a company.

[@htonmusic]

3:07

[@bloomberg136]

Its manons bike

[@simonemarin]

There are no catastrophic consequences if the compression plug becomes loose while riding, at all.

[@maximfournier-giguere5780]

Well in theory it would not support the stem compression properly, which COULD lead to some damage. Additionally the plug might slip and scrape the inside of the tube when tightening the top cap bolt, which wouldn't be great and prevent the proper preload of the headset bearings.

[@simonemarin]

@@maximfournier-giguere5780 yes actually I thought about that after commenting, but I am not sure whether the carbon steer tybe/stem assembly and the given torque settings are thought over having a plug inside or not, I am inclined to think that the compression plug has the only function of compressing the bearings not to bear the compression of the stem, maybe anybody else has some insight in that?

[@maximfournier-giguere5780]

@@simonemarin it has both functions. Carbon tubes aren't very strong under compression. That's why you need a plug that is at least as long as the stem clamp area, so it's completely supported.

[@simonemarin]

@@maximfournier-giguere5780 just for the sake of curiosity, I got a bit of information and apparently it depends on the steerer tube, some need it some other not. That's why some (actually most) compression plugs have just a small expander in the bottom and a loose body on top. Anyway, in case of doubt better a longer expander.

[@ernie12man]

@@maximfournier-giguere5780 Frame tubes are the ones that are less strong, the steerer tube is seriously stout. Ever try cutting one with a hacksaw? I've swapped several frames the last five years trying out different geometries and getting to the perfect all-road/gravel setup. But one thing they all had were the steerer tubes were supper stout. I found cutting with hacksaw much more accurate and controlled than with a sawz-all but, the effort it takes to get one cut while not like steel by any means, still takes a good few minutes of effort. Carbon steerer tubes are seriously strong. Edit: @chris McTavish pointed out maybe not all steer tubes are super strong, so check your torque specs, all the ones I've ever dealt with have been stout.

[@tomdosdos7179]

Up until this video, all I’ve read about carbon steerer tubes and seen in other installation videos is that the top of the steerer tube must be just above the top of the stem and then a 5 mm spacer before placing the compression plug and tightening. Has anyone else read these instructions or seen those videos? I’m new to the world of carbon steerer tubes (carbon fiber anything, actually) and I don’t want to mess it up. That being said, if Ollie is installing it this way, then I’m going to assume that you can. I prefer this look anyway. Not liking the chimney look.

[@tychoMX]

Yes, those are common instruction. What you need to understand in what is happening here: the bearings are held inside the head tube by two "retainers" that provide the appropriate load: the fork crown and the top cap. Having a small spacer above the stem ensures that the top cap doesn't bottom out and fail to provide the appropriate compression. The order you specify is a bit wacky, and in fact some plugs won't slide easily past the stem because it has a big lip to keep it on top of the steerer. I highly recommend placing a cap on top if it's reasonable. It also ensures the stem does not clamp the edge of the carbon steerer which sometime can cause delamination. 5 mm on top of a normal stem i hardly a "chimney look". That said, it may not be practical on some aero, integrated systems.

[@tomdosdos7179]

Rod Diaz - it’s all about the look for me, but I also want to do it right. If it has to have that 5 mm spacer (and hopefully not any thicker) so the top cap doesn’t bottom out then so be it. Thanks for that very clear explanation.

[@tychoMX]

@@tomdosdos7179 One idea: There are top caps that are thicker, and act as a bit of a spacer. It's not totally flat but ensures you have room to preload the bearings and you're not pinching the carbon steerer with the stem clamp.

[@crilups]

Where is Jon? Oli’s boring with tech! Buuhhhh! I like Oli but I don't watch tech anymore...

[@alexconstas9634]

Seriously so done with carbon and aluminum. Feels like cheap garbage having to ensure torque is fine or just me turning a bolt with minimal strength can break the bolts and metal. Never trusting my life with anything other than a steel or titanium bike.

[@poxcr]

Please ignore these instructions completely. This is not how you preload the headset, following this video may damage your fork steerer. If you need a video to guide you through the process you probably shouldn’t be doing it anyway. Refer to manufacturer instructions for specific steps and torque values.

[@mikefagan7619]

Ollie needs a wash. Other than that, all good.

[@georgehugh3455]

The bike, or Ollie?

[@brunocerri9560]

Such a shit design compared to star nuts

[@redtobertshateshandles]

6 or 8 NM aint much.

[@iammotherearth6432]

Carbon sucks. Alloy is much better

[@RobertAdams-ly5ku]

Not a clue. Unbelievable

[@peteesposito3790]

First

[@imsoniceee]

What a horrible video

[@gbartali5377]

Ha Ha Ha!!! The plug can't possibly slip inside the steerer, even if you use grease or oil!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@tychoMX]

yes it can. Not this one, but the ones without a lip can AND will.

[@ernie12man]

Oh yes it can, carbon is slippery, and those plugs are not super grabby. If they're not tightened well, they will slip.

[@gbartali5377]

ernie12man Ha ha ha. Not when the top cap is installed.

[@maximfournier-giguere5780]

@@gbartali5377 it's actually when installing the top cap that the plug slips if it's improperly tightened, preventing it from doing its job properly. Happened on my last bike, the plug was severely under torqued by those who assembled the bike and I could not adjust my headset properly. Turns out the plug crept up the steerer and blocked the top cap when tightening it down.

[@gbartali5377]

@@maximfournier-giguere5780 first the plug: 3Nm, the the top cap. it can't slip. no chance.