How to Install a New 11 Speed Shimano Chain on Your Bicycle - Bike Maintenance

[@julianfrombrisbanesolarrep1228]

Thanks for your video. I’ve been sitting under my house for an hour trying everything I could think of to snap the quick link back together!

[@JDirom]

Glad to hear you got it sorted.

[@MisterDivineAdVenture]

Would be nice to know the general rule of how to orient the chain - it's not always "like the old one." It's pin plates over roller plates, writing on the outside pin plates, and reads in the direction of travel. both pin plates are chamfered, the face side with the writing also have a round nose that leads, and a bit of a tab that trails. On the back pin plate faces, there's no text, and both ends are round. The chamfering is not the same. That's what I figured out for my chain (CN HG601), and I'm still trying to verify that. Also some of the outside pin plates on my chain, less than 10%, are reversed, with the writing upside-down. I guess it's good enough.

[@JDirom]

Writing goes to the outside, and the quick link is directional. Arrow points in direction of drive.

[@TravisKearney]

Why would you not push out the connector pin? Isn’t that what it is for?

[@JDirom]

You can for sure do that. For me it is just an old habit from before the days of quick links and spare pins. Honestly not a bad thing to be able to do for an emergency repair, just to get back to home base. I just wouldn’t consider it a fix.

[@TravisKearney]

@@JDirom What about for an annual, end of the Summer cleaning? Removing the connector pin to remove the chain for a thorough cleaning, and then replacing it with a new connector pin after cleaning. I put a new chain on in March, and had planned on doing this at the end of Summer, as weather allows for riding here for about six months of the year. I only have time for about 1,000-1,200 miles during that six months. But plan on removing the chain and cleaning in that manner.

[@JDirom]

Okay I see what you are saying now. So if you are going to break the chain to clean and put it back on, DO NOT break it at the connector pin. Select a different link to break preferably a ways away from the link with the connector pin. This is Shimano’s recommendation, and likely due to the continual use of the same connection when using pins will likely stress the plates and potentially enlarge hole in the link. Make sure to use a new connector pin, do not try to reuse. If you are using a quick link it is straightforward as you will just use a new quick link. Hope that helps.

[@TravisKearney]

@@JDirom OK. I won’t break it there. Being a circle (when connected) aren’t all the links the same? Or the connector pin link shouldn’t be used because that particular pin is extra strong or something?

[@JDirom]

Connector pin is oversized in comparison to the original factor pins in the chain.

[@secretagent86]

going to use a quick link for the first time...the trick with the wire is handy. thanks, good video. new will subcribe!

[@JDirom]

Thanks for the sub! Glad you found the trick useful. Have a great ride!

[@meneldil7604]

thank for the video i not bought a shimano chain for years had no idea they where diretnal

[@JDirom]

No problem, glad you found it helpful!

[@choddo]

0.5% stretch didn’t seem to show when you compared length on the new chain? Would have expected a half link delta over that length? Always makes it tricky and I end up counting :-) Maybe resting it on the floor eliminated the effect of the worn rollers?

[@JDirom]

You are measuring link for link. Had I pulled the worn chain to tension you would notice the difference. You should always count the links.

[@emiliopanaga546]

I have 11/42 cogs and 34teeth crankset, How may links in chain wil i put? Pleas help thank you😊

[@JDirom]

You will have to measure on bike. Method needs a video, explaining won’t really help. Sorry.

[@emiliopanaga546]

@@JDirom thank you sir

[@MitchOnTwoWheels]

How much mileage can I expect to get out of an 11spd chain before hitting that 0.5 mark? Does it vary by MTB vs Road riding?

[@JDirom]

That chain I replace was just over 5000km, results will vary depending on riding conditions muddy tails vs dry roads, and how clean you keep your bike. A dirty drive train will wear out much quicker than a clean and well lubed one.

[@petelemieux3614]

I hit the wear mark at just over 1,800 miles. All road mileage in Southern AZ. Clean the chain monthly

[@MitchOnTwoWheels]

@@petelemieux3614 Nice one!

[@shelby7963]

I just purchased a Shimano CN-HG901-11 chain that has writing on both sides of the chain, therefore, I cannot determine proper installation direction (writing facing the outside). Also, the quick-link does not an arrow to indicate proper installation direction. Are all Shimano 11-speed chains directional (writing on outside)? Did I purchase a fake chain?

[@JDirom]

It should be directional, stamped on one side, to show which side should be on the outside. Quick links should be directional as well. Instructions that come with the chain should also identify how to install and if the chain is directional. Chain should be 251.7 grams, 254.1 gram including quick link for that series. I suspect may be a fake, I checked the extra chains here, all are stamped one side. Hope that helps.

[@barbermack2980]

Thanks for the video tutorial! By the way, can you use ultegra chains on 105 cassette and derailer? Thanks

[@JDirom]

You absolutely can. You can use a 105 chain, an Ultegra chain, or a Dura Ace chain. The only real aside from weight, is that the Dura Ace chain will have SIL-TEC on Plate/Roller, as well as hollow pins (where a good deal of the weight is saved). The Ultegra chain has SIL-TEC treatment but only on the plates. The 105 chain has the SIL-TEC treatment on the inner plates. SIL-TEC is an advanced plating process that improves system performance through the use of imbedded fluorine particles, which is ultimately a ultra-low friction surface treatment. Hope that help you out.

[@barbermack2980]

@@JDirom Thanks so much! I ended up getting the Dura-Ace chains :) Now I have 2 possible concerns, should I start my chain waxing journey and how to remove hollow pins just in case it breaks when riding and changing quick links. Oh lord. haha

[@JDirom]

@@barbermack2980 pin removal is the same as standard pins. Waxing is the way to go if you enjoy the process. Cheers!

[@wattsupcycling]

Thanks dude, extremely helpful!

[@JDirom]

Happy it helped!

[@peterscuba]

Why use the same length chain if the old one would have stretched?

[@JDirom]

You have to use the same number of links. That is why you line up the old chain and make sure there are same number of links, and not go by just length. After lining up chains if you pull the old chain tight you will see how much the old chain has stretched. Hope that clarifies things.

[@adamweb]

When a chain has “stretched” it’s not really physically longer it’s the internal rollers that are worn out making it lose/saggy. This wears the drivetrain out faster and will eventually cause miss shifts and other issues.

[@jmjm3]

You did a good my friend

[@JDirom]

Glad you found it helpful.

[@billmaidment5623]

.5 for wear limit!? Big S likes to sell chains. I go to .75 to 1.0 without any trouble.

[@JDirom]

You can run them longer, but you will wear out your cassette and chainrings faster. If it is a cheap cassette that may not be an issue for you. That being said if you are running a $300+ Dura-Ace cassette it is probably better advised to swap out your chain way before 1.0 or .75 for that matter with an 11 or 12 speed system. It will be less costly in the long run.

[@billmaidment5623]

@@JDirom I’ve got 7k on my Sram Red 11 cassette with no signs of giving up or bad shifts. Steel is real.

[@JDirom]

@@billmaidment5623 7k isn't a lot of distance on a cassette. Lots of high milage guys will rotate three chains to reduce wear on those expensive parts. Considering that, you should be getting at least 30k plus on a cassette.

[@billmaidment5623]

Miles, not kilometers 😆

[@JDirom]

@@billmaidment5623 even in terms of miles 1/3 of the expected life of a cassette isn’t a lot. The chain is designed to sit deep into the cog. As the chain stretches, the chain rolls higher up on the tooth and causes faster cog wear as the point of contact is reduced, this is when you will experience more slippage.

[@encikamri3008]

thanks bos

[@JDirom]

You're welcome!

[@joakimpettersson7646]

Shimano is such a garbage company and it drives me crazy. Everything is made with the purpose to be as expensive, and annoying as possible so you spend as much money as possible. They are doing things complicated and tailor-made so they force you to buy theire tools. There is absolutley no need to make completley different parts for everything AND make thoose parts so that thet need a dussi tools to fix, things that can easley be made in serveral ways so that you don''t need that AND so that you can use it again(for example my chin broke on vacation in the mountains and nedded to put on my old chain, that wasent super worn dow btw, until I got back ad could buy a new one. Instead I couldent use my bike because Shimano chains canä't be reused like that). DON'T START BUYING SHIMANO STUFF IF YOU'RE, BECAUSE YOUR GOING TO REGRET IT IN THE LONG RUN!

[@JDirom]

All the tools for chain maintenance and installation are pretty basic and widely available from numerous manufacturers. Sorry about your chain.

[@abigrunner209]

No lubricants 🤦🏻‍♂️

[@JDirom]

All Shimano chains come lubricated with a factory lube. You can ride that for a bit, or remove it and go to your wax and lube of choice. Not shown in this video is that I use wax. This chain currently has 5,000km and a .25 wear.

[@joebal9044]

@@JDirom IMHO, the factory Shimano Lube is pretty good. If you really don't want to use it, a new chain is a good time to clean off the factory lube (thoroughly) and apply the lube of your choice.

[@JDirom]

@@joebal9044 100% I have a video on the process I use for new chains on how I strip them and get them ready for wax before I install. A lot of people do like the factory lube on the Shimano chains for sure.

[@LuciTulcea]

@@joebal9044 The factory lube is actually not good! It's far too sticky which causes all kinds of particles to adhere to it thus wearing everything faster.