How to install J-Channel like a Pro

[@mattjames112]

This is exactly the video I was looking for. Unfortunately, this is going to break my brain when I actually try to do it. Thankfully it's just a small section so I don't care if I waste a couple feet of J channel trying to get it right. Thanks!

[@sidingschool]

Glad to help! Good luck! 😊

[@user-StefanoMO]

Thank you very much for adding this video. I now can finish the first part of my home siding project.

[@sidingschool]

Right on!

[@alancurren378]

Appreciate the info. Attention to detail really makes that difference

[@sidingschool]

Yes sir, every detail counts!

[@alancurren378]

@@sidingschool you definitely helped an old carpenter make a siding job look professional. 👏

[@sidingschool]

That’s awesome!

[@Bagofmeatpatties]

Awesome video, thank you for the effort. You covered many many angles very well AND provided multiple techniques for each angle!

[@sidingschool]

No problem, thanks for the compliment! And yeah I tried to cover all situations you might encounter.

[@thomasflynn8712]

Excellent point about cutting further then the mark and also about the crease

[@sidingschool]

Yeah buddy 😊

[@Mygames627]

You make it look so easy ! Im a DIY guy. I havent seen a install of an inside corner piece . I have a wall with no overhang but has a fasha. Its a lean too. Can I cut the inside corner vertically to make like J chanel to get around the fasha ? Or do I cut it off at the fasha and use J chanel. I think it would look nicer to cut the corner piece to go up the fasha. Hope you understand what im saying.

[@sidingschool]

I’ve definitely cut an inside corner vertically like that, it is a clean look… if the step is too big it might kick the corner out by bumping into the inside of the J-trough. If that happens you’ll probably want to switch to j-channel.

[@pto200]

Amazing work. I love those details. I'd like to see how you get botched J-Channel out and replace it with properly cut pieces w/o taking siding off. Thanks.

[@sidingschool]

Thanks! Yeah, I think I can make one in a day or two here. Stay tuned!

[@sidingschool]

I posted a video on how to repair j-channel. Hope it helps!

[@pto200]

Some good instruction here. I like how you inserted the J into the siding. Didn't know you could do that. I've nailed the J like that at times. Now I know it's OK. Thanks a lot. Love your videos.

[@IanMcGimpsey-cv7tj]

Hey I’ve seen you use a stapler to fasten J. Never seen that but I like it. Any tips on how you do it? Depth, spacing, specs of staples? Thanks. Love your channel!

[@IanMcGimpsey-cv7tj]

I should add this is for vinyl I’m planning to do it with

[@sidingschool]

I’ve used a Senco SLS20 for years to fasten all my trim pieces, it uses a 18 gauge 3/8” crown staple and I get 1”… 18 gauge actually doesn’t meet the minimum specs for staples, but I like it for trim (especially undersill trim) because it is thinner and won’t bubble the siding out as much as a 16 gauge staple. The tip on the stapler is a flexible rubber so if you push on it a little you can compress it and shoot the staple with a little more depth control. There’s a newer siding stapler that I use for fastening all the vinyl siding… the Paslode SCS 200 - you can get it with a vinyl siding tip. It shoots a 16 gauge staple that meets most manufacturers and local specs (I use a 1 1/4” staple - make sure to check your specific requirements). The new Paslodes you can tip forward to get the staple to shoot a little deeper, so it is also a good choice. FYI, All fasteners should at least be electro galvanized! I only know of one place to get the Paslode SCS 200 with the vinyl siding tip and that is Adam’s Tool & Nail in Leominster MA. (If you find them somewhere else please let me know!) Unfortunately they won’t ship. I’m willing to go get them and ship them out myself for a little extra money… that’s the best I can come up with for now. 😏 I’ve scoured the internet but haven’t seen the vinyl siding attachment anywhere. Typically J-Channel I staple about every 12”-16”, F-Channel every 16”, undersill every 10”-12”, corners every 16”, siding every 16” depending on stud locations. Siding has to have about 1/16” between the back of the fastener and the nail hem to allow the vinyl siding to expand and contract freely. All my trim pieces I go a smidge tighter with my fasteners, but still allow for it to move with a tiny bit of force. The trickiest trim to fasten is undersill - you need to allow it to move because it bubbles really easily, but if you leave it too loose it’ll roll down a bit.

[@IanMcGimpsey-cv7tj]

@@sidingschool Thanks for such a thorough reply man. I'm a carpenter in Halifax NS. About to side a big house. Your channel has been huge, thanks for showing us

[@williamhoudersheldt7076]

That "adjustable" angle piece needs to be cut once it's in place, at the correct angle.

[@sidingschool]

That’s not a bad idea! That one method isn’t my favorite look.