How To Install Loose Lay Vinyl Plank Flooring + Special Installation Tips

floorstoyourhome.com/vinyl-fl...
It's 100% Waterproof, like our Supreme Click Elite, but unlike that, there is no locking mechanism. Usually you don't even need glue. It literally just lays in place, and then stays in place!
How To Install Loose Lay:
• How To Install Loose L...
and with adhesive:
• How To Install Loose L...
Waterproof flooring vs. Cat Pee
www.floorstoyourhome.com/blog...
More info:
www.floorstoyourhome.com/blog...
Waterproof vs. Water Resistance:
www.floorstoyourhome.com/blog...
How Waterproof is Waterproof Flooring?+lay+installation
...In a 'herringbone' pattern?
www.floorstoyourhome.com/blog...
for showmethevidnow: What does 'waterproof' mean in flooring?+lay+installation
STANDARD INSTALLATION:
0:05 - Pre-installation preparations
1:09 - Install right up against the wall (no gap)
1:26 - The "Loose Lay"
1:50 - Last piece in a row (pay attention to the Factory Edge)
2:50 - Staggering end joints
4:25 - The locked in floor
4:45 - Adjusting an already placed plank
5:46 - Difference from other floating floors
WHEN ADHESIVE IS NEEDED
6:02 - When you need adhesive
6:25 - Applying the adhesive
7:20 - Laying the planks
7:57 - Planks are anchored
9:15 - Adhesive for remaining walls after first row is down
9:47 - Adhesive bands through the room (not required in Loose Lay, but will not hurt)
10:45 - Should one work in segments?
11:28 - Very basic wrap up
For Norman, Angle to Angle Vinyl Installations - General Tips
• Angle Angle Laminate a...
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Video thrown together by W. David Lichty at
/ w-david-lichty-6a97404b

[@errorerror1337]

Wow! I love the way you move the final plank to the next row and mark/cut it there for a more accurate cut and then flip it to match factory edges. Very smart and that tip alone is priceless. Thank you for sharing!

[@michellekillam3600]

What a wonderful video!! I will be installing this floor with my son and you had several great tips besides the “must dos”. Thank you.

[@Mwingun]

I have watched numerous videos on this product and this by far was the most beneficial! I was concerned about the starting place in reference from the wall due the fact that there is excessive space between the floor and my baseboards. I knew it would not be sqaure by placing the pieces under the baseboards and I was unsure what to do it that situation. I certainly did not realize that an adhesive was necessary in my situation. Thank you for the excellent instruction! Back to Home Depot...again

[@AveIvy]

The technique for random staggers is very helpful. Thanks!

[@uniqthret]

Great video guys, much appreciated.

[@creolelady182]

A great video. Thank You . You cover all of the points

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Thank you!

[@drjasonjcampbell]

perfect instructions!! thanks!!

[@felipealvarez1982]

Awesome video. I learned a lot

[@straightfromthefarm5276]

man!!! thank you sooo much for this video! helped so much. never laid down any type of flooring, for a beginner, this was so explanatory. the camera guys asked all the right freaking questions!. the guy laying down the floor used simple nontechnical terms so people like me could grasp what was going on. thx you

[@savethechildren2]

Sooo glad i found this video!!! Thanks for posting.

[@tomelew8465]

Phenomenal video guys, thanks! In fact, regarding the loose lay stuff - this was the best vid I found.

[@sheilamore3261]

Wow absolutely love it I hope I get some of those for my home looks like we can install it hope so

[@OlgaDelgadoEsthetics]

I love it! Amazing Divine

[@jenniferjames107]

Thank you this is very helpful! Very informative.

[@kepstein8888]

Brilliant. Thanks for sharing this.

[@mostmost1]

Thanks for the video. I would rather add trim around the room than to float the floor.

[@bettyjones4576]

I love your video, I was so nerve in the begin, but because you all were such great teachers, it when well!!!

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Wow! Well, thanks, Betty!

[@mattcunningham5676]

Great Video! Very helpful

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Sure can! The floor still needs to be level underneath the planks, but vinyl sheeting rarely causes extra fluctuations in a subfloor's levelness.

[@heidebill]

Thanks for the video

[@scottsizemore1563]

Great Video

[@unchewable1]

awesome thanks for sharing

[@FloorsToYourHome]

If I've followed correctly in my head, I like your idea, ending up with even partial planks on both sides of the room. I was going to add that you usually don't want to end up with less than half the width of any plank going down, so if your measurements showed you that only 1/3 of a plank would be on the borders, you might go ahead and start flush, ending with a 2/3 width of plank final row. But really, you can just glue those down anyway, so if they're small, use an adhesive! Thanks, Terry!

[@averteddisasterbarely2339]

You don't see a video on net fit installation very often ! First here on KZbin for me anyway! Nice and accurately done !

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Glad you liked it!

[@Hemamali517]

wow,thanks a lot

[@jeffhinds925]

Good video, I have done many rooms with this product and will never go to click floor again

[@angebrowne1730]

Thank you.

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Kids, this floor is specifically designed for the loose lay method. The material does not expand or contract with the standard conditions that affect most other floors, including many vinyls. That's very important. The planks are also cut to meet very snug on the surface, where the tops meet. You would not want to use this method with just any vinyl planks. Our loose lay is designed to be able to go over some existing floors, so check the specific instructions, but over cork should work.

[@choppersinc10]

Thanks for the video. I understand why you demonstrated gluing the flooring down, as you have no choice in some cases. Seems to me it would have been a lot easier to install base molding, then do the loose lay, however.

[@FloorsToYourHome]

+choppersinc10 Hey, you're right. We did it that way in part because of the condition of the available rooms - unused offices - but also just to contrive a reason to use the glue. A person not making a demo video would definitely install base molding, and abut the planks to that, as one would to a wall. With loose lay, the likeliest reasons for glue would be installing in a large room, which is why our man put those stripes about 10 feet apart, or installing where a floor might slope, where it can't rest flat. There would be more to it than just glue, but as you approached a drain, you would likely want to break out the adhesive, for example. It can also just be a confidence builder, for those who don't believe it will do what it does after they've purchased it. Since it won't hurt anything, I wouldn't tell that person not to use adhesive. - David

[@catalinababy6068]

Wow I wish i saw this yesterday Looks so easy But wat about bathrooms

[@rup54]

Excellent video

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Thank you very much!

[@hothsv1]

is there any glue that needs to be applied underneath the boards before lying on the floor???

[@baseski]

Thank you for this video, I found it just in time before I do my floor. Correct me if I am wrong though, isn't it important to have the old floor surface very clean before laying the new? At 4:03 in the video, you are installing a short piece at end close to wall. There are several pieces of debris with no attempt made to dust or clean those out. Just wondering??? Also I am adding that I highly recommend that after you apply your adhesive down with the trowel, DO NOT scrape and clean the edge of the trowel back into the adhesive bucket, use another leftover cardboard box or something of equal. This is because if when you are spreading the adhesive across the floor and you scrape up some residuals that break off the old floor or if you missed cleaning some particles as mentioned above, you will then pick them up with the trowel and put them back into the clean bucket of adhesive which you may wind up spreading out again and causing a small bump in the tile. Aloha, Paul

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Yes, Paul, to both. We did this video in a rush, when the product type was brand new, and for some reason, we found very hard to describe to people effectively. I think they just didn't believe we were saying what we were saying about the installation method, so we rushed into an empty room and did this demo to show them. It's certainly not a perfect, real-life situation, just an opportunity to show the basics of how a floor like this goes down. You're spot-on that the floor needs to be clean (for this floor - super-clean, no less), which is in the installation instructions, which we choose to assume everyone will read thoroughly, and if they don't, I'm sorry to say that it's on them. Your advice about the trowel is just spectacularly helpful. I'd wager that Shawn actually does that when he's doing a real installation; he's careful like that, but the overall unreality of this demo probably killed the detailed thinking that comes with his normal attentiveness. Personally, I would prefer to show things as real world as we can, but if I recall, the outside temps were in the 90's, and even higher in this unused room, because I do remember rushing. I think we shot both sections in about 40 minutes.

[@twowheeledsmurph]

I never understood the idea behind baseboard being attached to the wall and then installing the flooring. I think it's an American thing - most likely from days-gone-by and hardwood flooring that was refinished often. Here in Canada - at least the houses i've worked on since the 90's - the baseboard is always removed prior to floor install. We don't use a quarter-round in addition to the base. Interesting product.

[@FloorsToYourHome]

It's done both ways down here. I wonder if it's due to many floors not having baseboards. In apartments, primarily you have just a quarter round, so maybe that becomes the mental image of 'trim', and if it's not there, something seems to be missing.

[@twowheeledsmurph]

@@FloorsToYourHome I think you're right. Most of the apartments here just have cove-base - vinyl adhesive baseboard. Ugh...

[@LockhartRiverKids]

Can you do this with plain vinyl flooring or is this a particular product that doesn't need glue or adhesive strips? I want to lay vinyl planks over cork, so I can but it against the existing skirting board

[@perrydear6306]

Thanks for the video! Question, how do you treat floor registers? And if you have a choice in orientation what way is best? Across the register vs along the register? Is adhesive tape recommended around the "rough" register opening to hold the planks?

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Good questions! "Question, how do you treat floor registers?" Cut the flooring to match the hole in which the cover already sits. So, if your flooring is 6mm thick, your rectangle should look 6mm taller than it was, and the cover should slide neatly back in place. "And if you have a choice in orientation what way is best? Across the register vs along the register?" Honestly, you're good either way if you handle it properly, so let that decision be made based on the other factors applying to direction (such as how you want your room to look!). "Is adhesive tape recommended around the "rough" register opening to hold the planks?" Yes, I think so, and here's why. It's recommended in any odd area, and if you cut it properly, the cover is going to settle into place, and where it used to overlap your original flooring, carpet, hardwood, whatever, it now will rest atop this Loose Lay, helping to hold it in place there. But that pressure on one side of a plank might lift the other side, so yes, and perhaps counter-intuitively, you'd tape the sides of the planks that are away from, rather than alongside, the register (or both!). - David

[@auntjojo1980]

nice!

[@sheraldamoore5427]

I have vinyl sheeting on my floor, can I lay these planks over the vinyl sheeting?

[@TheTerminator1919]

Very helpful tips! Can i use a miter saw to cut the planks versus the hand blade?

[@FloorsToYourHome]

I believe so.

[@mikeschlabs1196]

Hey thank you for these videos, I have a question, in your opinion, I have a vinyl plank 8mm with a pad pre attached going on a wood subfloor, is it necessary to have additional underlay given these circumstances? Thank you

[@FloorsToYourHome]

The real answer will be in the documentation for your product, but in very general, no. As a rule, vinyls don't need padding, and for some it's a full "don't." Being a waterproof material, they also generally do not need the protection of a moisture barrier. That's general. Your product's installation instructions hold the real answer for you.

[@haykm783]

Awesome video.! Can you tape or glue over a moisture barrier ( concrete basement situation ) Thanks in advance.

[@FloorsToYourHome]

No, you cannot. You'd be gluing the flooring to plastic, not your floor, so it wouldn't achieve your goal. This particular flooring does not need a moisture barrier, though. The material itself is waterproof (100% - like, if your basement floods, after the cleanup, you'll be putting these same planks right back down).

[@rickyrickharris4908]

Videos 11 years old but still the best one on the net. My question Is in this exact room had he used tape in only the spots where he used adhesive would the floor not be raised up in those sections?.

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Ricky, do you mean raised by the tape itself? The material of the tape being under the flooring, lifting it up by however thick the tape is?

[@nancycote5876]

So this seems like a great product and easy to install. We're thinking of putting it on our basement floor. The house is only 9 years old and the concrete floor is level. I'm wondering though......does this provide any kind of warmth for our feet? Can it go over radiant heat if we were to install some of those pads? Thanks!

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Nancy, many hard surface floors can go over radiant heating, but with some temperature requirements, and this is no exception. You will need to check the specific instructions for any product you're looking at - you can call us about ours, of course. Some requirements will be about the top surface of the floor covering, for instance. That's usually the case with laminates. One of our product's instructions say, "It is possible to install Loose Lay floor planks over under-floor heating systems. The subfloor temperature should not exceed 80oF. A 4mm to 6mm concrete screed should be applied between the heating system and the Loose Lay product." and the FreeFit brand just says to "...not turn off radiant heating systems when installing FreeFit . Rather, maintain room temperature between 65° Fahrenheit (18°C) and 85° Fahrenheit (29°C)." There will be specifics to check, but yes, this can be done. - David

[@Jubilee1009]

I read all the comments and didn't see any questions on how slippery this vinyl plank flooring is when wet. Would you please comment on this matter? Thank you so much. Great video!!!

[@kimberlyu1308]

I think it's a lot less slippery than linoleum flooring.

[@heatheranneshuman7110]

when using the product in a bathroom do you have to lay something down on the sub-floor first before laying this down or can you lay it straight down?

[@FloorsToYourHome]

It goes directly down onto the subfloor so long as the subfloor is flat. In fact right now we won't sell any underlayment for it, no padding and no moisture barrier. Those are not just unneeded, but at this point unadvised. Flatness is the issue, no more but also no less than it would be with any other flat or hard plank floor. Each floor has a tolerance, and if your subfloor is beyond that you will need to deal with it in whatever manor is recommended for your type of subfloor. - David

[@judyirving586]

This is a great video, love this floor. Is it suitable for an RV that is not climate controlled? Where can I buy this product?

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Being in a place which is not climate controlled will void the warranty on this floor. That doesn't mean that it won't work, but it will void the warranty. It's unusual dimensional stability is only guaranteed within a common controlled home temperature range. You'll find it here! www.floorstoyourhome.com/vinyl-flooring/loose-lay.html

[@terrydavidmullins]

Put that on the center of the wall. Mark both ends that distance. Do that on both parallel walls, connect the outside marks. You have two lines on the outside edges that are parallel. Same width both ends. Leaving half of partial tile or plank you would have had now at both edges. it's two cuts instead of one, but the planks or tile or whatever will be running with the room and not running off at the angle to just one of the wall. And it will be centered and not half a tile or plank at one edge.

[@alexishlady]

whats the easiest way to install around a floor vent?

[@dennism644]

How does one go about getting some of this ..wow what a awsome product

[@FloorsToYourHome]

TEXT OR CALL US! 1-800-804-5251

[@petermcgill1559]

Seeing the product being laid was much more informitive than hearing that salesman talk about it

[@syed5392]

How to take care of high and low spots? In my washroom subfloor, I used liquidy thinset to level the floor for tiling. Should I do the same and use an underlayment?

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Thinset, yes; underlayment, no. You cannot use underlayment with this particular flooring. It must contact the subfloor directly. But yes, that subfloor needs to be even.

[@bccron]

What adhesive is being used in the Video for Karndean Luxury Vinyl if Tiles? The floor would 25 yr old concrete basement floor that had carpeting in one area and thin vinyl in another area. Thank you.

[@FloorsToYourHome]

+bccron We aren't using Karndean in the video. Our adhesive is Roberts Vinyl Adhesive 2310, which is a pretty general vinyl adhesive. Karndean may have special requirements, so check their instructions for that. Some floors will need a specific adhesive. - David

[@chikuano1]

Hello I'm from Malaysia. Can it be install over a ceramic tiles flooring or I've to lay plywood first before installation. Here we have tropic climate, will that be a problem.

[@FloorsToYourHome]

As long as you smooth out the ceramic with a cement leveling compound, it would work fine. This goes over almost any smooth, flat surface. You should still look at the specs for any specific product you look at because they do have temperature requirements, and they can be different from brand to brand. For example I found this for one of ours: " FreeFit is water resistant and can withstand up to 8 lbs. of moisture pressure and relative humidity of 85 percent... maintain room temperature between 65°Fahrenheit (18°C) and 85° Fahrenheit (29°C)." Others may have different levels, but this is a good gauge. - David

[@williamchang8254]

3 questions: 1) What is the max gap for the baseboard mouldings( height. thickness of floor)? I plan on doing a basement and wood floor where existing baseboard is mounted and I'm sure there's a gap beneath the baseboard. If the gap is bigger than the plank is tall, I'm not sure what if anything the plank will bear against. The drywall and studs are probably ragged. I like the idea of not having to use quarter round. What do you suggest? 2) Is there a recommended limit for how long or wide the floors can be without the need for a joint of any kind between rooms or when there's a directional break (room to hall)? 3) Any recommendations on thresholds or the like where bathrooms might intersect with a hall way or floor? Thanks.

[@FloorsToYourHome]

1. It sounds like you need to have something butt the outer planks of the room against. The answer here is that you glue down those initial rows, the outer rows, and that glued down rows become the stabilizing sources. We show this adhesive process (in fact it's even for the reason you've given!) in the video above, starting at about 5:51 in. (kzbin.info/www/bejne/r5qyaWewnZ6ai6s&lc&t=5m51s) Hopefully that will help you quite a bit. Shawn's pretty thorough in showing and explaining why. 2. There is not so much a length limit, as it is that you can use adhesive under a row about every 10 feet. If you keep putting the adhesive at the 10ft, intervals you can run that quite far. I think we have had people go up to 40ft. In fact, if there are smaller areas in the installation, like going through doorways, it is recommend to put adhesive all through those areas. It can be hard to make perfect cuts through doorways. 3. I think you're asking about going between two different floor coverings, the Loose Lay and then whatever is already in place nearby. Any time you change the direction of the planks it would be recommend to put in a trim too. As for the transitions, you would use the Slim Trim for that. Slim Trims should work for all Loose Lay transitions. They're here: www.floorstoyourhome.com/trims-and-accessories.html about midway down the page. Hope this helps! David and Adam

[@HAFFT1ME]

I've seen posts complaining of bubbling when exposed to hear/sunlight with other brands of vinyl plank flooring. Does this product defect in such ways? Will this product have problems when exposed to extreme temperatures like a mountain cabin where the heat is off and the temp drops below zero?

[@FloorsToYourHome]

+HAFFT1ME Bubbling we haven't had, but the other is going to be a concern. Like most floors, certainly most plank floors, there is a range of temperatures within which the flooring is warrantied. Usually these go a bit above and a bit below normal home temperatures, but it's specific to each product. Now that doesn't mean that the flooring is going to explode if you go 1 degree off, but for Loose Lay to behave like Loose Lay, with full 'dimensional stability' (meaning the length and width, it's dimensions, don't change), it probably needs to be kept within those ranges. We post documentation on every product, right from the manufacturer, so you can find those numbers, if provided, for anything we sell. - David

[@ndhudecz]

Did you use spacers? Are these click tile?

[@TheFYoung]

Can this be placed on top of existing tile? Do you need to cover the existing tile with anything before laying the planks down?

[@FloorsToYourHome]

The requirements for what it can go over aren't material specific, but condition specific. Any additional flooring beneath it must be attached, it cannot be floating. There will be a levelness, or smoothness, tolerance as well. It's probably close to 1/8" over any 10 foot span, where a difference greater than that would not be recommended. In your case, if the surface of the tile was textured, or if there is grout, this issue could come up. Then you would want to use a self-leveling compound or put another wood subfloor over it, so the Loose Lay is going over a good, flat surface. That's the important thing, a good, flat surface over which to lay these. - David

[@mavrick002]

hi awesome but could you please tell me what you call the tool you use to get a straight line before you cut the board

[@FloorsToYourHome]

There are those who call it... Speed Square.

[@beed3202]

Awesome video. Thank you! I found it surprising that you butted it up against the baseboards in the first example. I thought I'd have to remove the baseboards, then reinstall them over top of the flooring. No? If not, how should a person finish the edges? Also, is there no concern about these expanding and contracting in the winter vs. the summer? We live in Alberta in an older house, and the floor can get a little cool around the edges in the winter.

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Butting these up to whatever vertical surface defines your room is exactly how these planks go in. It's what distinguishes them, and enables the loose layness. In addition to a gripping bottom surface, what holds these planks in place is all of the other planks, and then ultimately the walls. Within the parameters set in the documentation (around 20-25 feet, depending on the brand) these planks do not expand or contract They are put in place with no underlayment, and pushed snug against each other, and the walls, or fireplace, or door jamb. You can leave the baseboards in place, and install the planks flush against them, or remove them and put the planks up against the walls, then put the baseboards back, floating them over the flooring, whichever you prefer to do.

[@1pcmedic]

Q1: What happens when there is a glass of water dumped and it runs onto the floor, does the small crack between planks suck the water in? Q2: Can this product be used in a bathroom? Q3: When you use the glue, and have to remove a plank, do you have to re glue or just drop it in and add pressure to get it to grab?

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Q1: Check the first link above, in the description. It's a picture of the planks meeting. They're cut to press together at the top. It doesn't wick water down. It will keep water on top _for a while_ so you can wipe it up. That's what they're designed to do - keep water on top for an unspecified amount of time. A lot of the duration will depend upon how well they are installed. Q2: It's great for bathrooms. Most consider the issue of water dropping off feet onto the floor when they think of bathrooms, and Q1 applies there. The other issue, though, is the steam, or just water vapor. Over time, days, weeks and months of having the humidity rise so high and then fall to normal as people bathe or shower could play havoc on any floor made with any wood - hardwood, obviously, or laminate, for instance. The fact that the planks are 100% waterproof means that this just isn't an issue with this floor. Q3: If you glue a plank down, then there will be solid glue residue left on the subfloor (and maybe the plank) if you pull it up. Before putting it back down, you'd be subject to the same requirements of a new installation, namely a clean, smooth, flat surface under the planks. You would need to scrape up the residue (and maybe clean off the plank) before resetting the plank. You *might* need to reglue. If you had a reason to do it in the first place, then there is probably still a reason. My recommendation for a spot where you expect to need to pull up a plank (this would be something like a frequently damp spot on concrete, where drying out will occasionally need to be done, otherwise it's probably not common to anticipate this by location) would be to not glue the planks right there. If possible, glue the planks which are near and around the ones you would expect to need to lift out.

[@ericzeh7647]

Is Karndean Knight tile Cumbrian ok for a bathroom floor? Would a good DIYer be able to install it?

[@FloorsToYourHome]

+George Zeh Hi, George. First: "We don't know." We don't sell that brand, so I looked on the Karndean website, and I can't find good information about the installation method for that product . It's really surprising - I can see why you asked! Second: If it *is* a loose lay vinyl product which is anything like ours, then it should be good for a bathroom as in 100% waterproof, and it should be easy to install with the exception of making exact cuts to fit it snug against the tub, if it's curved, for instance. I would stand behind our Loose Lay both for bathrooms and easy installing, but with Karndean I can only make a guess based on the association. - David

[@belindareynolds8237]

I have recently had issues with vinyl plank flooring and seeing this video is interesting to me.... however, i have a slight bump mid way through my flooring that I'm not sure i can fix really. The previous owners had laminate in that room but i wanted to upgrade the floor (both times the planks have snapped at or near the tongues), would this type of flooring work, or am i doomed to laminate flooring? Any help is greatly appreciated!

[@FloorsToYourHome]

First, to get the technicalities out of the way, whether you have laminate or a vinyl, the documentation will insist upon a flat, even surface, to the tune of not more than a 1/4" variance across anywhere from 3 to ten feet in any direction. That's about both warranty voiding and genuine functionality of the flooring. If you have more bumpiness or waviness than that, technically, you'd want to build a little subfloor over your subfloor, which would then be nice and flat, or use this stuff called Leveling Compound, basically a liquid you pour and spread flat, which hardens into a new, correctly flattened surface on which your flooring can go. Real answer part one is that whether it's a little ridge or more of a slope, a harder plank is going to have a bigger problem. It can't form fit the bump, so it's going to wobble or rock where that lift is under it. This floor, and those like it, more resilient (bendable) floors, might be more accommodating. Loose Lay *can* be glued down, and in such an area, would need to be. That's likely as much a help as it would be a hassle, and you'd likely want to glue down a few surrounding planks, too. That would preserve the bump, meaning you'll still feel it underfoot, but perhaps that's better than a rocking plank or two. The real answer part two is that the advice to flatten that floor is pretty sound either way. Any floor installed over it will have a voided warranty, but beyond that, any flooring installed over it can have issues, whether from unbalanced hard planks, the continued presence of the bump through your glued-to-it resilient planks, or some installation issues, like your glued planks not being able to be fully square where the floor raises.

[@belindareynolds8237]

@@FloorsToYourHome thank you for the reply! Looks like levelling out the floor is the way to go cause I'm definitely sick of redoing this floor over and over again. Thanks for your help 😊

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Hey folks, KZbin is broken today, and instead of posting Terry's reply, they replosted his first comment. Here's what I have of what he really wrote: "Your right, it would be less than half a plank, just by the nature of the process. I'm glad you got it. It's kind of hard to explain and easier to show. But you got it. And although it won't work so well for the planks. You could still... " and KZbin has obliterated the rest! Sorry all, sorry Terry, and thanks for your great tip!

[@peruviana1000]

We have laid 3 bedrooms with this type of flooring except ours has a tongue and they lock together. Now we are stuck on how to do a 90 degree hallway between the bedrooms, in other words we have a hall leading to bedrooms which turns to lead to the living areas. Any suggestions?

[@FloorsToYourHome]

I don't have *great* ones for you, if your goal is to keep the floor connected as you turn that corner. As long as the planks were in exact ratios from short to long sides, and in general they deliberately are with Loose Lay, then this would be no issue. With click-together flooring, I see two viable options for you: 1. With a locking floor, your best option would be to use a transition piece at the door. You would leave a gap under it on each side, as if it were one of the walls. Your likeliest transition pieces would be a threshold or a t-mold: www.floorstoyourhome.com/resource-center/trims-and-moldings/threshold/ www.floorstoyourhome.com/resource-center/trims-and-moldings/t-mold/ Effectively, the hallway becomes its own room then. 2. If you were hoping to avoid a transition piece, then the likely option would void the warranty. Anytime one installs flooring contrary to the instructions, the manufacturers tend to wipe their hands of it. That doesn't mean that it won't work, but it's a thing to consider. Also, you wouldn't be able to lock the planks to each other at this turning point, even if you left the locking mechanism in place on the long side of the room plank. This is because you still need to stagger your rows in the hallway. Since the ends of the planks going into the hallway would need to lock to their next planks, the ends facing the doorway are the ones you'd have to cut. One way or another, the hallway planks will end without locking mechanisms at that doorway. You could cut off the joints that would meet at the doorway on both sides, effectively leaving yourself with loose lay style ends that could be laid snug with each other. It is likely that you would already be cutting the starting and ending rows of the room lengthwise, to create symmetry, so your room may already have what you need at the door. You would then cut off the ends of your starting rows in the hallway, abut them to the side of the room plank, and install into the hall as otherwise is normal. Ideally, you would use some adhesive under the planks at both sides of this direction shift. I *hope* this is helpful. _ David

[@Dave-xr4iz]

I'm a installer from the UK and when we fit vinyl tiles we glue the whole floor so all the planks are stuck down. this is the first time I've seen this and I really like the method would save so much mess and time!! Is this the way it should be done do the tiles ever lift?

[@FloorsToYourHome]

They lift when deliberately pulled up (of course), but otherwise really no. They don't do the things you'd fear, like coming up when properly hoovered, or three years down the road the product self-destructs and we discover it was too good to be true. It's really a dense, heavy material, and the planks are much more resilient than click together vinyl planks tend to be. The dimensional stability is such that across 7 to 8 meters in any direction, you should expect no expanding or contracting, so ...yes! This is how you do it. You make them snug against any vertical surface, and against each other, and that holds them in place. Most have a 'gripping' surface for the backing as well, and where needed you can use an adhesive, say if there *is* a deviation in the flatness of the subfloor. We've had these for over four years now, and I believe we have had two or three customer issues with the product itself. These were actual manufacturing defects which we replaced, but we've not had any saying something along the lines of, "Hey look, this just isn't working like it's supposed to." I've posted an image in the video description of the way these are cut through the thickness, at an angle, so the tops press together quite well.

[@Dave-xr4iz]

Floors To Your Home (.com) thanks for you advise, the tiles we use are thinner that the ones in this video can I still use you method?

[@FloorsToYourHome]

If they are manufactured as these are, designed to simply lay snug against each other rather than be glued down, then yes. I wouldn't do this with just any tile or plank which lacks locking mechanisms though. It's not just the cut; the material matters too. This stuff won't expand or contract in a normal sized room, where almost all other vinyl products can. It's a pivotal piece of the loose lay puzzle, so you'd have to make sure of that option in the documentation. - David

[@stuartbowater1968]

C

[@Mekratrig]

What brand vinyl planks are these. I have been impressed with Kardean.

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Mekrating, I'm sorry that I don't remember what brand we used when we made the video. I don't think we've had Karndean pass through our warehouses yet. We currently have some Timeless Design, and some bespoke labels (our own brand - that's the first stuff we were able to get, I think 6 1/2 years ago). I can say that regardless of manufacturer, the quality level seems unusually consistent. We've sold well over 1'000 Loose Lay floors, and the claim level is very low compared with industry standards and our own levels with other types of flooring. Wherever you do shop, make sure to get a sample - even of different brands, if they're available. It's as interesting as it is basic, once you see it in hand.

[@jacky1tse422]

What is the glue that u used in the video? I cannot find that in home depot, i dont know which is the proper glue for this application

[@FloorsToYourHome]

We used Roberts Carpet Tile & Vinyl Adhesive (2310)

[@silverman6417]

I haven't seen any comments on your video or below about furniture marring, like kitchen chair impressions and couch impressions after re-arranging furniture. Being that it is thicker than most vinyl flooring, it seems to me that it would dent from someone sitting on a bar stool with smaller feet or a couch with several people sitting on it.. Does it reclaim it's memory, or will it permanently dent like cork flooring? I guess it's easy to replace but do I have to do this every time I re-arrange my furniture?

[@FloorsToYourHome]

+Silver Man I'm glad, and maybe not surprised, that we don't have such comments. The Loose Lay is thick, but it's also *really* dense stuff. It's solid, not spongey, not even a bit. The owner of Floors To Your Home has had it in his basement for a couple of years with a pool table and a treadmill on it, and those haven't dented it yet. But let's say that it is able to dent. Bar stools necessarily move around, so those would be fine. One person in one spot for one whole night on a bar stool won't even leave impressions. The couch *could* do, if it has very small tips on the feet, like those little, round ball-shaped ends that are put on to make a couch easy to move. It's like a stiletto vs. a standard heel on any shoe, it concentrates the pounds per square inch. That can be handled with those thick plastic cup-holder type things people put under furniture feet. If there would be an indention, that one would pop back up. It's possible that a really heavy piece with tiny feet left in a single spot for more than a year could leave an indention that might be permanent. We haven't had that come up as a complaint yet, though we've only had these for about 3 1/2 years at this date. Your best bet is to get a sample. Ours are a nice size, about 9" by the width of the product, as long as it fits into our shipping containers. You'll see and feel what the material is, and can test it yourself with whatever you think represents your situation at home. The instructions for one of our brands list these maintenance tips: "Support furniture with wide-bearing, non-staining floor protectors. Ideally, the protectors should be at least one inch in diameter, made of non-pigmented hard plastic, and rest flat on the floor. Non-staining felt protectors are also acceptable. Casters with a minimum 3/4" flat surface width or floor protectors are recommended for all moveable furniture. Make sure any metal protectors are rustproof. Replace your narrow dome furniture rests with wide-bearing ones." Other list that their product has passed the standard ASTM F-1914 indentation test. I'd love to give you real specifics on it, but the standards document is only available for purchase, everywhere on the internet: www.astm.org/Standards/F1914.htm. Basically the test replicates a 500 lb. piece of furniture supported by four legs, each with 1/4" diameter feet, left in place for 10 minutes. The material is checked right away, and then again 1 hour afterwards. What does 'pass' mean? That would cost us to find out exactly, but I think it means "no indentions left after the hour." - David

[@silverman6417]

+Floors To Your Home (.com) Thanks David. I was planning to do my whole ranch with Loose Lay because it is a concrete pad. I am down South, so humidity and moisture are a problem. I only hope that my floor is smooth enough to keep any tiles from popping up. A good brick can sand down any high spots. I have to adjust the cove mouldings because 1/4 round moulding was removed because of the old carpet tack strips. Also, I watched and re-replied to the other video. That's why I didn't see my first reply. It was this video. Thanks for the reply. Can't wait to install it....

[@FloorsToYourHome]

+Silver Man Glad to hear it! Sounds like your situation is perfect for Loose Lay, concrete being the best subfloor, and moisture issues being the best reason. If it helps to give you an idea for preparation, these are our most stringent installation instructions from one of the manufacturers we carry: www.floorstoyourhome.com/media/catalog/product/f/i/file_131_1_1_2_1_1_1_1_1_2_3.pdf The only standouts to me are the 'dust' thing and moisture testing cement. They explain the cement issue pretty well, and for keeping your subfloor 'dust free', they don't mean that it needs to look like a sheet of glass, just that you should keep it as clear as possible as you go, maybe keep a little hand brush with you in case installing it generates detritus. We didn't demonstrate that in the video, going over a wood subfloor, but it is a good idea.

[@FloorsToYourHome]

For a floor that can go in any room (including the basement) that is also easy to install, say "Hello" to loose lay vinyl. Loose Lay Vinyl Plank Flooring Installation Tips and How-To

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Generally you don't. These are held in place by each other and the walls, keps snug on all sides. The video goes over when adhesive would be helpful or needed starting here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/r5qyaWewnZ6ai6sm55s

[@sarasorensen2650]

@@FloorsToYourHome is this water tight? Can I put it in my kitchen without worry the subflooring will get damaged?

[@FloorsToYourHome]

@@sarasorensen2650 No floor is, really, except sheet vinyl. Any plank floor can allow water to get past it eventually. Installed properly, this should keep water atop for a while, as the planks are cut at slight angles to push and keep the tops flush. You can see that here: www.floorstoyourhome.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/IMG_03441.JPG

[@fatimamancuso]

you install this after the baseboards? Normally wouldn't you install the flooring then put the baseboards on? Thank you

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Yeah, it *is* weird, because generally trims hover over the expansion gap, but because this floor cannot _have_ an expansion gap, you can go either way with it, under the baseboard and snug against the wall, or snug against the baseboard. So you don't have to! You *get* to, though.

[@Sexy40baby1]

if using adhesive, can the floor be removed and used again? how would the adhesive be removed from the flooring strips?

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Good question, Mz Tweety! First, the adhesive would need to be the recommended, pressure-sensitive sort. If you use something else, like Liquid Nails, it could rip the flooring as you try to remove it. Given that, you would lift the planks out with a putty knife, and yes, there will be some residue on them. To remove it? Consider Goo Gone, and chemicals if its ilk. Those should take off the residue, leaving your planks ready for their next placements.

[@privatename2648]

Rather than glue could I just put molding down and have that be my vertical surface for the floor to butt up against? I really don't want to use glue but as I live in a mobile home I KNOW I WILL HAVE A GAPS when I tackle this job.

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Heya, +Private Lender. As long as your vertical surface is flat, something like a base board, you'll be fine. It will work just as well as a wall. If the mobility of your home convinces you that you will have gaps, may I recommend you look at the click together styles of vinyl plank flooring? It is almost the same stuff, with two exceptions. 1) It clicks together, so no gapping can occur, and 2) it is *not* 100% dimensionally stable, so you would need to leave an expansion gap between the floor and the walls, maybe 1/4", positioned under your trim. Otherwise it's still 100% waterproof, has the same designs (in some cases the *exact* same designs) as the Loose Lay - it's a near match, but the differences may be just what you need. - David

[@talmadgebirdsong1609]

How does this work under the pressure of a power chair running over it all of the time? The seam in our kitchen is separating from the power chair wheels. It is a fiberglass sheet product like vinyl. Do you have any experience with a customer in a power chair using this type floor?

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Talmadge, if this floor is laid as a floating floor, with all planks snug to each other and the floor snug to the wall, we're not *certain* it would hold up against that powerful drive wheel. With a device like that, you really need your flooring to be attached to the subfloor - glued down, in this case. As we show at the 6:02 point of the video, you can definitely glue this flooring down. We show the perimeters being glued, but you could also have any regularly traveled areas glued or even have each plank done that way. - David

[@Sarah-tc5yv]

What kind of glue is that? We are using a karndeen loose lay that has more of a square shape do we still need to stagger?

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Hi, +Sarah Woolsey. We carry few of the square shaped floors ourselves, but the ones we have install without staggering. I don't want to speak for all floors, but I think that is the norm. Our adhesive in the video is Roberts 2310. Check your instructions to make sure they don't specify a specific type of adhesive - go with that kind if they do - otherwise the Roberts is somewhat universal. Here is some data on it: www.floorstoyourhome.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/Roberts-2310-Directions-Information-.pdf www.floorstoyourhome.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/Roberts-2310-MSDS-.pdf - David

[@lisabrice779]

Does this product lift in the corners over time because it is not locked into another piece? Does this product shift and create gaping over time? Would water get into the seams of the material?

[@FloorsToYourHome]

If it is installed properly, the answer to your first two questions is "no," and to the last is "not quickly." Properly includes going over a perfectly smooth, flat surface. This is not as much of a necessity with a floor that has padding under it, but since these lay directly on the subfloor, and they are an exact thickness - 3mm, 4.2mm, numbers like that - the flatness, smoothness and cleanness of the subfloor at installation is paramount with loose lay. This is easier to find if the subfloor is cement. With a wood subfloor, where the panels meet, there could be a 1/16" difference, and when the floor planks go over those gaps, that would be 'transmitted' through. That's just an example of something that needs to be taken care of before installation. Properly also means that the planks are perfectly snug with each other, and against walls and other vertical surfaces. They shouldn't just be pretty snug, or mostly exact, but each side of each plank needs to rest, and sort of press, flush against whatever it is contacting. Once that is done, all according to the specific directions for the particular product, these floors are designed to not expand or contract due to the environmental changes that do that with most other plank floors, laminates, woods and so forth. There will be a required temperature range for the home, so these aren't good for a place which is closed up for the winter and not temperature controlled for that time, but for normal home use, they are specifically made to not shift and create gaping over time. Since the seams do not lock, liquid can indeed pass through. The way they are designed, there won't be a capillary action, but if liquid is down for a while it may indeed seep through. I have a picture in the video description of the sides connecting, which shows how the factory cuts will meet that should help with this. The benefit here is that any plank(s) can be pulled up without uninstalling the floor from the wall to them, so that you could easily clean underneath, clean off the plank, and then the plank(s) can go right back down. So if a leak is destined to get through a floor, this may be the best floor to have. I hope that helps, Lisa! - David

[@wbrjrp7763]

I like that plank you are using in the video. What is the brand name and style number? Very helpful video, thank you.

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Hi, Wbrjrp, That was one of our first four styles ever, and it has come back in over time under different names, because the planks are different - wider, longer, thicker, or just made by another manufacturer using the same patterns. We've had five to date. Presently the two matching that look which we have in stock are www.floorstoyourhome.com/products/supreme-click-elite-waterproof-vinyl-plank-weathered-hickory.html That's a 6" x 36", the same dimensions as the one in the video. www.floorstoyourhome.com/products/supreme-elite-freedom-boulder-canyon-oak-7-wide-waterproof-loose-lay-vinyl-plank.html This one is 7.3" x 48" and a little thicker as well, but also with the same look. The brand name is Supreme Elite Freedom. If you look into this down the road, on our website just search for 930-8, and any products with that pattern will come up, just in case these rotate out and others come in. - David

[@wbrjrp7763]

Thank you for getting back to me so quickly. One final question, have you ever used double-sided carpet tape instead of glue to put down vinyl plank flooring? You mentioned it in the video.

[@FloorsToYourHome]

In the video, Shawn mentions 6" Gecko double-face premium tape as one that would work. I have not used it, though he has, but the things to look for in a flooring adhesive tape would be: 1. Whether the adhesive would bond well to a specific type of flooring 2. The tape should be at least 6" wide 3. Thickness of the tape. If you don't go with Shawn's specific recommendation, then check the first part with an assistant at your store. Some tapes won't bond as well to certain surface types as they will to others. The 6" requirement comes from the instructions for one of our products I opened to check. Then make sure, especially in this case, that the tape is very thin, not at all thick or foamy. You want these planks to lay evenly, not with seams that rise up above others here or there. Even a super tiny height difference can turn into a tripping hazard, or allow spills to seep through immediately, where normally they would be held above long enough to be cleaned up. You would want a tape that has no room for ongoing compression, but is already super thin. All of this comes second to anything your instructions say. They'll be different from product to product, geared to the specifics of the particular product, so check those first. We publish ours on each product's page, but wherever you buy your floor, make sure to get a look at those so you can plan well.

[@wbrjrp7763]

Thank you!

[@kevinlandry8730]

What stops this tile installation from curling up or cupping downward at joints

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Hard to say - it's just not know for curling or cupping at joints. This is a dense material, not some thin vinyl on paper. It's 4-5mm thick and one of the only floors we sell that does not respond to the environmental changes normal to a home which shrink and expand almost all other floors. It's dimensionally stable. - David

[@judichristopher4604]

"Thumbs UP" I wished you sold damaged pieces.... damaged boxes. I have a RV that I'm redoing and have "Little" spaces"... I like this application.. This would be easy to install and it looks like it's easy on the feet... Is this "Soft" to step on? I worked at a GYM (I'm a Reflexologist Massage Therapist) and the office I rented had squares they laid down.... soft but durable... I loved working in that office.. My back never hurt...

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Judi, I don't know how soft these would be. They're not as hard as porcelain or VCT for sure, but they're also not spongy. If you were interested, I would get a sample, because you'd be the best judge of where these fall on your soft/hard scale. Also, for an RV, I might recommend a click-together over a loose lay. I'm thinking about the shaking and vibrations, and potentially greater diversions from perfect flatness of the subfloor. Loose Lay is almost our best selling, and definitely our least complained about, floor, and it stays down and stays snug, but houses don't vibrate. I could be wrong about that being an issue, but it's what occurred to me. Also, most of the floors we sell have temperature ranges to maintain. That doesn't mean they won't work outside those, just that their warranties would be voided if installed outside, or in a non-temperature controlled location. It's a factor to consider, if not a dealbreaker. As for damaged pieces, you're right that we don't sell those, but we do sell overstocks, irregular runs and factory trials. Broadly, call them "seconds" or "second quality," a much more common term with hardwood and laminate. To be honest, with wood, it's often pretty clear why it has been so designated: short boards, extra knots and so forth. They aren't damaged, but just don't represent the particular look of the particular style for which they were produced. With the vinyl, I usually can't even tell what the 'flaw' is. It's often that they come from the end of a dye run, so that the last few thousand square feet were a shade darker or lighter than the named color. We do carry those, and they come with quite a discount. I've generated a link with all the proper filters checked, to go just to that particular selection in our waterproof flooring: www.floorstoyourhome.com/vinyl-flooring/all-products.html?sq=0&data=511=1290~1114~311~825|524=113&Rand=0.14443718924985793 Now, that's one wacky URL, so you *might* have to copy & paste it into the address bar of your browser. (Actually, I just clicked it, and it worked for me!)

[@judichristopher4604]

@@FloorsToYourHome Awwwww I just saw this... I didn't know you had replied to my post 3 months ago!!! I'm glad I came back to this video... I am still thinking about using this method for my RV.. Why? Because the "Click" in I don't think will work as well because of vibration, where this loose lay, will gently move, without being noticed... besides the fact this RV isn't going to be on the road much... just used like a house. This is my 25th RV to Flip!!! Yes, I do need samples... or your seconds. Thank you so much for sharing this video... I know how good this product is... I want to be a sales person one of these days... lol.. NOTE: After I finish refurbishing this 1982 Class A RV.... I will be moving to ABQ NM and opening up my Reflexology office again... and would like to have this again in there... I love this flooring... Great for your BACK... I should know... That is my JOB!!! LOL

[@bednek]

Hello, I just purchased STAINMASTER LUXURY VINYL PLANKS, so my question is can I butt the planks up against my wall baseboard trim molding? This would make it so much more easier to install.

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Hi, bednek, we don't know here. 1. We don't carry Stainmaster, so we can't consult the instructions, and your first possible question is a very important one to settle right. The term Vinyl Plank covers both Loose Lay and Click Together types. Our Loose Lay *must* abut the walls, and our Click Together must *not* abut the walls. Check the instructions on or in the boxes. Look for the words "expansion gap". It will either tell you not to have a gap (so you'd abut the walls), or it will tell you the exact amount of space to leave to create a gap. There are so many different manufacturers making all of these different kinds of floors, all with minute, but very important differences, that going to the specific documentation is the only sure way to get the answers you need. 2. If you know you have a Loose Lay product with no expansion gap needed, then what you're asking might be about whether you must abut the wall itself, or if you can also abut a baseboard. In that case the answer is that you *do not need to pull up the baseboard* and install underneath it to the wall, then reattach the trim. That is unnecessary with a baseboard. It can serve as your 'vertical surface', as your wall, when you install the floor. I made a drawing (a lousy on, in Microsoft Word) of this here: www.floorstoyourhome.com/resource-center/trims-and-moldings/baseboards/ I hope I've caught the correct question with one of these! Take care, David

[@Fallen2Dope]

What would you do if the floor is un level & would you put this over a old title/linoleum level floor?

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Over a level floor, yes, and for any unlevel floor the only answer is that it must be leveled first. This is the case with all hard surface flooring (these, hardwood, laminates, ceramic & stone tiles etc.)

[@moonpiespotlight4759]

Floors To Your Home (.com) Not true. The floor needs to be flat, not level.

[@FloorsToYourHome]

This is a specifically designed product, not a new method to use on any vinyl. With these, each plank is cut such that the tops meet snug, the backing has a gripping surface, and the material does not shrink or swell with environmental changes. You only want to install vinyl this way if it is a real Loose Lay product. Going over cork, as long as it's very level, no more that 3/8" variance over any 10 foot span, Loose Lay or Click Together should work great for you.

[@misscreant]

can these be placed on top of existing, old vinyl?

[@FloorsToYourHome]

+Dan Genzale Sure, Dan! The requirements are that any floor under the loose lay be attached to the subfloor, not floating, and that it be flat, smooth and clean. As long as you have that, or can get your floor to that state (leveling out any gaps or bumps, cleaning well before installing) you should be fine leaving a former floor down. - David

[@johnlaysfloors]

The end cuts you're making in the video are all at 90 degrees. The wall will never usually be at that angle. Therefore youre achieving an uneven cut every time. You should try to make the cut that follows the angle of the wall.

[@stephaniesmith2900]

can this be installed on top of a hardwood floor? do not want to rip it up

[@FloorsToYourHome]

+Stephanie Smith It can be installed if whatever flooring under it - hardwood, vinyl, cement - meets the installation standards regarding slope and gapping. We have different manufacturers' products, and they have specific requirements, but they don't vary much. Here's a quote from one of them: "All subfloors should be solid, smooth, sound, clean, dry and dust-free before the Loose Lay flooring is installed... the floor should be level to 1/8” across 10ft." As long as those requirements are met, that floor will go down just fine. - David

[@hannan52]

Hi, my bathroom is having a leakage, somewhere on the floor the water is seeping (definitely not the pipes or outlet) and it is making my neighbours uncomfortable. So I was just wondering, instead of causing more troubles, breaking the tiles, and re cementing and putting new tiles etc. the cost may push up to thousands! so was just wondering, is it okay if i just spread "water proofing" on the tiles, then only I put these vinyl planks? Can I stop water from seeping down? or atleast put that probability to 70% solving the problem? thanks! Any further tips?

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Hannah, your description makes it sound like the water may be coming from above the floor, but I can't tell how sure you are about that. If that *is* the case, that the water is from just showered feet stepping onto the floor, or unintended tub splashing, things like that, then your solution sounds pretty good. Just make sure the waterproofing leaves you with a smooth, flat surface. The snugness of the Loose Lay planks will hold most of that moisture on the surface long enough for you to dry it up, and any that gets through - it's easy to lift these planks, wipe or dry any seepage under them, and put them back into place. If this moisture is not coming from above the floor - not from inside the room - then you have an issue this cannot solve. If water is getting or forming anywhere below the surface of your existing tile, then you need to have that issue looked into, after which this would again be fine. - David

[@hannan52]

thank you for your feedback..I will look into what you have said!

[@mmark300]

hannan52 Probably too late at this point, but your toilet wax ring could be leaking underneath your existing flooring. If this is the case, adding flooring on top of this would not help.

[@4vinylsound]

Where can I find that color your applying in this video. Natural wood color? Loose lay 5mm.

[@FloorsToYourHome]

We're a flooring outlet, so while we always have a lot of choices (23 different Loose Lay products out of almost 300 vinyls in stock today), but for us, once they're gone, they're gone. I would start here: floorstoyourhome.com/vinyl-flooring/golden.html and filter by type to see if we currently have a close match in any given month.

[@4vinylsound]

​​@@FloorsToYourHome I've tried looking before and on your website you have loose lay in natural wood color but it's water resistant not waterproof and it does say that it can mold underneath which I would not consider purchasing. But thanks.

[@FloorsToYourHome]

We have no loose lay which is not fully waterproof. I'd be surprised if anyone does, because the material used to make a loose lay floor just *is* inherently waterproof. But we do have a _lot_ of floors which look and sound like a lot of other floors, just within our own site, so I don't doubt we have a product like what you've described. As for mold, and I'm not trying to sell you on us, just hoping to help wherever you do wind up shopping, the waterproof flooring material, a vinyl, isn't good mold food, but what it does even better than some other floors is trap moisture that might rise up under it. Being waterproof, it isn't porous or very 'breathable', and any trapped moisture in a dark place can grow mold, if it has something to eat. Wood and carpet are good mold meals. It can't eat vinyl. It *can* eat stuff contained in concrete, which, with wood, is what 90+% of subfloors are made of. Material-wise you're best with vinyl and ceramic, but if you have specific reasons to want an especially mold-resistant situation, I would talk with a very local specialist who knows your area's climate and water tables. Should you seal your subfloor? There are situations where that wouldn't be good. Will a simple moisture/vapor barrier take care of it? Find someone smart and well-regarded in your area and ask, then get a floor which can accommodate their answer. While any flooring could go over a sealed concrete subfloor, with loose lay vinyl you can't have an additional moisture barrier, so if that were the necessary solution, loose lay would be ruled out, if that makes sense.

[@francisalares4011]

question can i use underlaying for. vynil floor if my surface is not completely even

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Underlayment is usually not recommended for vinyl plank flooring. It will also not even out an uneven floor. "Leveling compound" is good for that in many cases.

[@Superdog4348]

Floors To Your Home (.com) o

[@tinasullivan1934]

Can this be used outside on a screened porch?

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Initially I'd say no, but there are a some 'it depends' issues with this. These floors are designed to be used inside, and in temperature controlled environments, never going below or above certain numbers. You can see the documentation on any of our products' pages (www.floorstoyourhome.com/vinyl-flooring/all-loose-lay.html) if you want specifics. They'll all be pretty close, so one will give you a good idea, but you can check any of them. If you happen to live in that magical zone of Earth where the temps never go below 65 or over 85, then you could be okay there. So *can* they be used? Possibly. Will doing this void the warranty? Absolutely. When you install a floor outside any of the parameters given in its instructions, the manufacturer washes her hands of all responsibility for the product. (This is why we post those documents, so people can do all the investigation they want to do.) You could risk this, but first I would check for actual outdoor flooring options, and maybe also ask around locally, where your climate is well known, so the dealers can factor that in as much as you need them to. Take care, Tina, David

[@kathybeck451]

Can this be applied to stairs? What happens when you come to a doorway?

[@FloorsToYourHome]

In both cases glue is your friend. Now, installing a floor product anywhere other than a floor will likely void the warranty, because manufacturers tend to be picky about those, but that doesn't mean it won't work. We've had customers use this on walls and even floors - again, at their own risk, but as far as we know to their satisfaction too, because we haven't heard back about them. When you approach any area where you don't have a good 'vertical surface' like a wall you can use vinyl adhesive to secure those planks, as we demonstrate in the latter part of the video above. - David

[@creolelady182]

My kitchen floor is now leveled. Any advice you can give me. I plan to uise these planks

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Level is great, and the only other advice I'd give, if we didn't put it in the video above, is to keep it as clean as you can as you go. Since laying flat is the plan, you'll just want to keep debris away, such as any grit or dirt, or wild vinyl chiplets and such. Otherwise, the video and your instructions should show all you need. It really is a pretty basic floor to put in.

[@creolelady182]

Floors To Your Home (.com) what i meant is my floor is not leveled. can i still use this product and will it look ok?

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Oh yes, the now-not conundrum, my own typing nemesis. Easiest slip of the typing finger, and it changes the *whole* meaning. Okay, so *not* leveled, then here is what is important. The floor needs to be flat. It needs to be smooth and flat. So if level means you have a nice, flat floor, but if you set a ball down on one side of the room it's going to roll to the other side, then these planks should still work. They need to lay flat on a floor, and to be snug against each other and the walls. If by not level you mean also not perfectly flat, then check your instructions, but it's likely you would want to use some adhesive in spots where the floor dips or rises. We mostly hear about this where a floor has a drain, and slopes down toward it. We show the adhesive process n the video starting at about 5:51 in. (kzbin.info/www/bejne/r5qyaWewnZ6ai6s&lc&t=5m51s) So, it still could work and look okay. Most flooring has a listed tolerance for a certain amount of levelness. I picked a Loose Lay floor at random and checked the instructions, which say that the subfloor can be un-level up to 1/8" over any 10 foot span. A leveling compound will be recommended, and is a common step in many floor installations. I looked for a good video on this and finally found one that shows, and also talks, and you can hear the person well enough to understand them. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z4C3d3d_bM2Am6c ...actually, this video is *darn* good, now that I'm letting it play. Good tips, good preparation help, and things are very well shown. There's a part 2 listed in the video description too. Now that's functional advice. If you choose not to level, then while the floor may still work quite well, because the installation instructions were not followed to a T your warranty may be void. It's just a thing to consider. I hope I've finally been of help!

[@judichristopher4604]

Did you get these planks? ... and if you did... How do you like them?

[@geekygamerzworld4263]

Could you please tell me where i can buy them in NSW?

[@FloorsToYourHome]

New South Wales? I'm sorry, I have *no* idea.

[@mommyray411]

Can you please tell me your suggesting for glue if I'm using this on concrete?

[@FloorsToYourHome]

We don't suggest that you must use glue (if that's what you're asking?) You definitely can! The Loose Lay floors are designed to go down without adhesives, but they certainly do not *have* to. I know that we demonstrated on a wood subfloor in the video, but concrete is likely to work even better. Concrete is generally smoother than wood, and what is best for this floor is a smooth, flat surface under it. There are places in a regular installation where you might use a glue. Installing a floor past a doorway would be one. If your floor slopes, say, toward a drain, then you could use some there. In the video starting at about 5:51 in we show using adhesive every 10 feet or so, just to bolster the support. (kzbin.info/www/bejne/r5qyaWewnZ6ai6s&lc&t=5m51s in case that time link doesn't work ) Check out the whole video - Shawn explains and demonstrates things well - and always check the instructions for your specific floor, or the one you're considering. We keep the instructions right on our products' pages just so you can do that, before or after buying. They'll list the musts, any suggestions and all of that for their particular floors. They will even list the kind of glue to use with their flooring, if it has to be specific. If they don't, then a general vinyl glue should work - ask a Home Store person and they should take you right to it. We use Roberts Vinyl Adhesive 2310, but that's just one kind. I hope I've answered your question! If I haven't, please set me straight and I'll try again. David

[@mommyray411]

+Floors To Your Home (.com) thanks I watched the entire video prior to asking my question. it was very informative. I was just asking the name of glue you used because our drywall doesn't go down far enough to put the flooring up against it. prior to seeing your video we asked our local big chain stores and they wanted to sell us proper and glue for the entire floor.

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Oh! Now I get it, what you were asking. Sorry for the tangent then. Well, if you've got our flooring, then it's Roberts 2310, which also happens to be a general vinyl adhesive, good for many products. We've carried it longer than we've even had Loose Lay floors. If you have another brand of floor, just check their documentation. Most don't specify a certain adhesive, but a few do, and believe it or not, it's not a marketing ploy to sell their brand of glue; it' just weird science. Glad you liked the video, and thank you for the compliment. Actually, just having watched it all is a compliment. Most people only watch about 40% of anything on KZbin. This one is only watched for about 4 minutes, on average, but I will admit that it is pretty long. I hope I've finally helped!

[@scottblack6785]

Can you fit this on top of laminate flooring.

[@FloorsToYourHome]

+Scott Black You *could*, but I would not recommend it, Scott. The requirements for anything going under this kind of flooring are that it be completely smooth, and not floating. If you have a smooth laminate with square edges (ie no gaps, or bevels where the planks meet) that would be a great surface for these, but since almost all laminates are floating floors, it wouldn't work out for you. You would have this dimensionally stable floor, with planks designed to hold each other in place, atop a moving floor. However slow the expansion and contraction of a laminate floor, it *is* moving, and that would give you issues. A floating floor is best removed for this one. - David

[@jeremiaharmstrong2368]

I can't say for sure because I 've never worked with this product but I find it hard to believe they won't separate. VCT that is glued down will often eventually separate.I wouldn't want to put it down because if it did separate the mill rep would come out and say"You didn't get it exactly net to the wall over here in this three inch area ,installer error".Come on installers help me out.How many walls are straight enough to net both ends and it's gonna butt the wall all the way down.!!!!?

[@FloorsToYourHome]

They don't separate, and as for walls, you don't have to cut the border pieces with the exact, minute, imperfect curves to form fit against an imperfectly flat wall. As we demonstrate in the video, you can just glue down the perimeter planks. They certainly fit snug against themselves. We've been selling these for 2 1/2 years now and haven't had any complaints that the planks eventually separate. So far it just doesn't happen. - David

[@judichristopher4604]

6:33 What is that adhesive that you're using?

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Roberts Carpet Tile & Vinyl Adhesive - 2310 It's a general vinyl adhesive, something you should find in any home store, even if not this specific brand. I would check your documentation first, but *usually* a brand-specific adhesive is not required, and one of these will do, so that you can shop around.

[@judichristopher4604]

@@FloorsToYourHome Thank you for your information.

[@321dummy1]

Can you stall this over tile?

[@FloorsToYourHome]

As long as it's a glued down tile, and the surface of the tile meets the tolerance requirements of the subfloor's flatness. A strongly textured tile might blow that, so check your product's specific installation documentation (we post all of it with each product) to get those numbers.

[@drewkreiling6573]

do you have to glue the entire floor down?

[@FloorsToYourHome]

+drew kreiling No. See starting at 5:46.

[@mariabowland9025]

What kind of adhesive is used when the baseboard is not present?

[@FloorsToYourHome]

We carry a Roberts adhesive, but our manufacturers have not made one that is specific to the products, as in 'only use this one, please'. A vinyl tile adhesive from a home store should work well too. If you're uncertain, take a sample of your flooring in with you and ask an expert there to confirm, but you really should be good with any tile adhesive. - David

[@mariabowland9025]

Thanks!

[@Yaz674]

Hi, I am doing a project covering my basement. Can I install that on my concrete floor basement. Do I need any underpayment of some kind?

[@FloorsToYourHome]

+y ramsted Yes! This can definitely go over a concrete floor. That's kind of the perfect subfloor for these, because it's so much likelier to be perfectly smooth. You will not need underlayment, in fact it's not recommended for Loose Lay. If you have more specific questions, feel free to call us at 1-800-804-5251, or you can open a chat on any page here: www.floorstoyourhome.com/ We answer flooring questions all the time. - David