How to install polycarbonate roofing

[@AdvanceGreenhouses]

Great video. I am so glad that you mentioned the minimum roof pitch or slope. So many people try to lay polycarbonate sheets flat and ultimately end up having issues. Also glad to hear you mentioned chemical incompatibilities.

[@carnellc]

What issues when having a flat service? I rent and have a flat trellis;/

[@AdvanceGreenhouses]

@@carnellc We have found that when it rains it will leak between the H profile and the sheet. There is no way to stop this. Also, if you have a heavy snow load it may collapse the entire structure. It needs the slope for the snow to slide off.

[@matt7iron]

@@AdvanceGreenhouses can you walk on those sheets, they look flimsy.

[@ivorygilyard2243]

That came out beautiful. I would not have trimmed them. You did a great job. This video was very helpful. Thank you for posting.

[@gihonda127]

We like using a leaf blower to remove leaves. Good video.

[@Sarahyoutubeaddict]

Great simple straightforward advice

[@YoungerChic6979]

So clear & gave great helpful hints! Thank you

[@pamelakincaid7489]

So easy ...thank you

[@alulabruk7274]

Great video it helped me

[@Marcnstacy214]

Trying to do a DIY. Windy in FL and was wondering about what I would use for the sides to prevent the wind ripping it off.

[@sunnysidenz]

Hi there, you can use metal or polycarbonate flashings to help hold the sides down. You can also use storm washers or hurricane washers on the screws to provide more surface area holding the sheets down. Thanks, Kurt.

[@khiz5755]

What about noise when its raining and will this get hot in summer and cold in winter ?

[@عبداللهخليفة-ه8ل]

It is sun and water proof and it will not change the color

[@sunnysidenz]

Hi there, yes it is UV protected and waterproof. It has a warranty against colour change, but eventually at the end of its lifespan (15-25 years) it will break down.

[@architectbuilders4292]

Very good

[@shahjalalentertainment]

talent Bari

[@YohanWatts]

Very helpful, Thanks.

[@fastestmanon3legs454]

*800mm=31.5"....1000mm = 39.4"*

[@lot5953]

You should show how you nailed it down and what kind of screws did you use

[@sunnysidenz]

Hi there, we do have another video showing that, feel free to check out kzbin.info/www/bejne/omXZhmCgmcaJj5o

[@lot5953]

@@sunnysidenz thanks. I will check out the video

[@elsplace896]

This explained so well. Do I need to get a certain thickness to be able to cut with tin snips or a hand saw? I don't have a power circular saw. Thank you.

[@sunnysidenz]

Hi there :) Tin snips will cut through one sheet at a time. To use a handsaw, you can do about 2-6 sheets. Thanks, Kurt.

[@elsplace896]

@@sunnysidenz Thank you

[@elsplace896]

Is that 6 mm thick? I really don't want to have to buy a saw. Sorry to be a pest.

[@sunnysidenz]

It's 0.8mm thick, but has the corrugations so retains its rigidity.

[@elsplace896]

@@sunnysidenz Perfect, thanks.

[@Frog_lee]

Did you use a dektite for that down pipe coming through the roofing? Also did you bother with any flashing since the top edge is under a soffit?

[@sunnysidenz]

Hi there. Yes I did use a Dektite on the pipe. I didn't use an apron flashing at the top edge as there wasn't enough room. I could have used a back channel flashing, but I opted for putting foam infill in-between the sheets and the soffit. This has stopped any water or leaves from going up and over that edge. It's a closed cell foam so is watertight, as long as it's held tight enough between the sheets and soffit. Thanks, Kurt.

[@paulliddle7483]

How did you screw the sheets down ? Were you able to put your weight on the sheet on top of the joists?

[@sunnysidenz]

Hi there, I used a ladder from the deck and reached across each sheet to screw it down as I went. Another way would be to use a board on top of the rafters / purlins. The sheets are too flexible to put weight on them. If you really need to get on top of the sheets (e.g. to clean them at a later stage) you can put a drop cloth down, then a large sheet or plank that goes across a few sheets / purlins so it spreads the load. Thanks, Kurt.

[@paulliddle7483]

@@sunnysidenz Hi, thank you for replying. I will be trying to fit polycarbonate roofing sheets . I’ve been racking my mind on how to reach to fasten them down . The roof dimensions are 2.6 metres x 10.6 metres. As the sheets need to overlap. The last fixing is left, for the next sheet to go over . That’s when I’m wondering how to fix down? If that makes sense?

[@sparkyhughes131]

By how much did you overlap the sheets, 2 or 3 channels ?

[@shamilahashir]

We don’t have 5degree slope on our pergola, how can we add one if we plan to add the polycarbonate sheet ?

[@sunnysidenz]

Hi Shamila, thanks for your question. You can either use purlins (the ones going across at right angles to the sheets) of different sizes. I.e. large at the top end, going to small at the bottom end. That will create some slope. Or if it's possible, to lower one entire end of the structure. I hope that helps! Kurt

[@amyp112]

I have the same problem! We have snow here but my pergola has no slope. Great question

[@amyp112]

@@sunnysidenz you just solved a huge problem I had! So no need to raise or lower an end of the whole pergola structure if using different size purlins to create slope? Thanks

[@deleted1070]

What is the life of Polycarbonate Sheets ? Will they turn yellow ?

[@sunnysidenz]

Hi there, here are the full warranty details for these particular sheets sunnyside.co.nz/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/SUNCOVER_Warranty.pdf

[@gnarlyification]

Did you apply any flashing to the end sides (ie parallel to the corrugations)? If so, what did you use? Thanks.

[@alexeyorlov9639]

How many mm rise per linear meter ?did not catch it

[@sunnysidenz]

Hi Alexey, it's 88mm rise per lineal meter. Thanks, Kurt.

[@gusemery5475]

I’ve installed grey polycarbonate but looks too clear when I double them up it looks grey can I double them up?

[@sunnysidenz]

Hi Gus, I wouldn't recommend doubling them up. It will never be completely sealed so eventually you'd get debris/sediment/mould in there which you wouldn't be able to get out. You could put a shade cloth underneath, that may help, and you can remove it when necessary. Regards, Kurt.

[@gusemery5475]

@@sunnysidenz thanks mate

[@龍在江湖-i4s]

Great work, I watched very carefully your video and was wondering how you fixed the other end bearings to the eaves? Appreciate it if you could give me a hint, thanks

[@sunnysidenz]

Hi there, we put a wallplate (beam) along the wall underneath the eave, and then attached the rafters to that with rafter hangers :)

[@龍在江湖-i4s]

@@sunnysidenz many thanks 🙏, in my house there is an existing beam immediately fixed underneath the eave, not fixed to the wall under eave, in this case how should I attached the rafters to the existing beam? Do I also use brackets to fix the rafters to the beam? Cheers

[@sunnysidenz]

No worries. Yes you should be able to attach the rafters to that using rafter hangers. However, you need to ensure this beam is strong enough to support the rafters and roof, including with wind load. In some cases, you may need to add additional support to that beam, i.e. adding extra rafters from the house to the eave to support. Cheers.

[@龍在江湖-i4s]

​@@sunnysidenz Glad to hear that, you might have known Fresco Canopies & Awnings, and they built my canopy years ago and I noted the canopy is attached to the eave by a 50mm x 90mm beam fixed underneath along the eave, NOT to the wall, and I think the beam can be strong as long as it is screwed to the original solid timber inside the eave. My plan now is to extend a bit more deck and then build a pergola with polycarbonate roofing. Your video provided a good reference for me. I also watched other videos that show the beam is fixed to the wall underneath the eave like yours, however, the difference is that their rafters are put on top of the beam and then fastened with brackets and my ones are underneath the beam. Practically it would be great if I would be able to attach the rafters to the existing beam using hangers.

[@sunnysidenz]

Ah yes I know Fresco. The rafter hangers will allow you to attach the rafters directly into a beam.

[@amyp112]

Would there have to be a high slope in an area where we get snow here in Indiana, US? Thanks!

[@sunnysidenz]

Hi there, yes you'd definitely want a steeper pitch in snow prone areas. You'd also want to reduce the purlin spacings to 600mm max. Thanks :) Kurt.

[@amyp112]

@@sunnysidenz thank you so much!

[@rciszkowski]

Hey mate, good video, many thanks. Just a question, how did you seal this white pipe on the top, did you make a notch around it and fit a sheet from the top ? did u seal it with a silicon or something stronger ? Thanks mate !

[@sunnysidenz]

Hi there, no worries :) I didn't actually seal around this one. I just cut the hole in the polycarbonate as close as possible to the shape of the pipe. We do get a very small amount of water through, mainly from rain landing on the sheet above the pipe and running down. But it didn't matter in this particular installation as there is a planter box on the deck directly below. The best way to stop this is to get a plumbing vent flashing. It's a sleeve/boot that slips over the pipe. The you run the sheet above the pipe over the flashing, and the bottom edge of the flashing sits on top of the sheet below the pipe. A bit hard to explain but if you search for plumbing vent flashing you'll see what I mean. Thanks! Kurt.

[@Celtic-Acid]

Question: how much unsupported overhang can you have from the last perlin (the bottom / low end of the roof)? Cheers mate

[@sunnysidenz]

Hi there, we recommend no more than 150mm. Around 50mm is standard, as that will hang into a gutter. Thanks, Kurt.

[@Celtic-Acid]

@@sunnysidenz okay thanks for that, maybe I'll just do 30mm. Not doing a gutter.

[@sunnysidenz]

All good. 30mm will be ok. You don't want to do too much less as you can get water rolling under and dripping down the purlin creating drip lines on it.

[@Celtic-Acid]

@@sunnysidenz sorry, another question. What about the overhang on the sides? Should I cut the wooden support flush with the poly overhang of about 40mm (just fixing the poly in 19mm X 90mm timber). Building a bird cage type design so small foot print. Seems like you can only buy 50mm poly screws not 35mm, so my screws will be poking out. Appreciate the advice

[@sunnysidenz]

No worries. Yes it's difficult to get shorter screws, I haven't seen anyone who sells them. You should have the poly pretty much flush with the sides of the structure (not overhanging as it's too flexible sideways and will rattle around). Up to 10mm overhang would be ok, but nothing more.

[@astanfartin1647]

ty

[@sunnysidenz]

You're welcome :)

[@DrThinkfuture]

Thanks for the video. How did you manage getting the vent through the polycarbonate so it doesn't leak?

[@sunnysidenz]

Hi there, thanks for the comment. You can get metal flashings (plumbing vent flashings) for this purpose. Because this one was very close to the eave, I didn't need to put the overlapping sheet over the top end of the flashing (you normally do). The top end of my flashing just sat under the eave nicely. I hope that helps. Thanks, Kurt - Sunnyside.

[@finesse1570]

Probably a dumb question but I can’t tell from the video but do you think rain will sheed away if I build a perfectly flat roof and out the plastic panels on top?

[@sunnysidenz]

Hi there, thanks for the question :) You definitely need some sort of fall/slope. A minimum of 5 degrees is recommended. If you don't have a slope, the rain will sit on top of the sheets, and eventually come through the joins. If there's enough water there it can even make the sheets bow and curve inwards. Hope that helps! Kurt

[@sharonpetty6938]

@@sunnysidenz Do you have a link to a How-To Video that would help us make your recommended slope on an existing flat roof attached to my brick house?

[@sunnysidenz]

Hi Sharon. I don't have a video for that, but there are a couple of options. You could see if you could drop one end of the structure. Depending on how it's built, it may be possible. But usually the better option is to put extra purlins on top, in varying thicknesses. I.e. a 150x50 on its edge at the high end, then a 100x50 on its edge, then 50x50, down to 0. This can work depending on the length. Feel free to email photos to [e-mail] and I can take a look. Thanks, Kurt.

[@adrianr8486]

You didn't add the horizontal plastic closures??

[@adrianr8486]

@Sunnyside Outdoor Roofing ah ok! I was just wondering. I just bought some im working on my pergola, gling to add some 1x4 first. Greetings from Texas friend. Thanks for the video.

[@龍在江湖-i4s]

Would like to know what the height of this pergola is?

[@sunnysidenz]

Hi there, it's approx. 2.5m off the deck.

[@龍在江湖-i4s]

@@sunnysidenz Thanks 🙏

[@Natedavis4444]

Great video! What size screws do you recommend to secure the roofing panels? Also, did you pre-drill each hole?

[@sunnysidenz]

Thanks Nathan :) We recommend 50mm for the corrugated or Greca profiles, and 65mm for a 5-Rib profile (higher rib). You don't need to pre-drill each hole with our One Shot fasteners or Multipurpose fasteners. These have their own cutting wings that cut an expansion hole at the same time. Thanks, Kurt.

[@eierund]

Can you walk on this roof so you can clean it?

[@sunnysidenz]

You can't walk on it directly, but you can use walk boards at least 2m long to spread the load across the sheets. Thanks, Kurt.

[@tehnoplus1]

what kind a tape is used?

[@sunnysidenz]

Hi there, it's called noise stop tape. It's a closed cell foam that is 3mm thick and 25mm wide, with a sticky side to hold it down. It's available on our website at www.sunnyside.co.nz Thanks, Kurt.

[@abdultayyab]

Hi. Can I use this under my deck as a drainage system?

[@sunnysidenz]

Hi Abdul, thanks for your message. Yes you can use it underneath a deck, we've used it in plenty of applications like that. You just need to make sure it still has adequate slope/fall to one side. Thanks, Kurt.

[@abdultayyab]

Sunnyside Clear Roofing thank you

[@anthonymejia446]

Where I can get the sheets?

[@sunnysidenz]

Hi there, you can purchase them from www.sunnyside.co.nz Thanks

[@jackier7737]

Can you walk on it if you have to make a repair?

[@sunnysidenz]

Hi there, you can't walk directly on it, it's too flexible for that. But you can put walk boards down, e.g. a plank, or a thick sheet of plywood. I'd put a sheet/drop cloth down first so the timber doesn't scratch it. Hope that helps! Kurt.

[@jackier7737]

@@sunnysidenz very helpful. That's what I was thinking. It's high - 14 feet. Too scary for me, but hopefully I can find a local roofer who will take on a smaller job.

[@caroleveseaman6210]

We had an idiot install, and the first panel, he put the screws in the valley of the sheets instead of the peaks. He's obviously gone, and I need to finish it myself. How do I repair the holes in the valley, please

[@sunnysidenz]

Ah that's a shame, there's no easy way to fix it. It would be good if you could flip the sheet over but most sheets only have UV protection on one side, so that would expose the unprotected side. You can't glue or silicone as it looks bad and will eventually work loose. Your best option is to put some screws in where he's drilled the holes and hopefully the washer is sealed enough that it doesn't leak. Make sure the hole is big enough to allow for expansion too. All the best with it!

[@gerardosantos4956]

What would you charge for a job like this?

[@sunnysidenz]

Hi there, we don't do installations, we only supply the roofing. Thanks, Kurt.

[@pragnayroofings6436]

what is the name of tape, pl

[@sunnysidenz]

Hi there, it's called noise stop tape and is a 25mm x 3mm foam tape (sunnyside.co.nz/product/noise-stop-tape/).

[@elian2702]

HI! Great Job! how thick the pólbonate is in mm?

[@sunnysidenz]

Hi Elian, they're 0.8mm thick in a corrugated profile. Thanks, Kurt.

[@rainbowcat83]

What kind of tool do you use to tighten the screw? Thank in advance.

[@sunnysidenz]

Hi there, no worries. You use a cordless drill with a 5/16" nut setter (hex head driver). Thanks, Kurt.

[@flexbella6187]

Please where can I buy this...

[@sunnysidenz]

Hi there, this is available for delivery New Zealand-wide. Feel free to visit www.sunnyside.co.nz Thanks :)

[@a6player]

Great Video! Would you by any chance know where I could buy wider sheets (I’m located in NY)? All I came across is 26 inches wide x 12 feet. Thank you

[@sunnysidenz]

Hi there! We're based in New Zealand so I'm not sure about where to buy in the US. However a standard width is about 26-34 inches (660mm - 860mm). There's no places that do them wider here, might be the same there too :) Regards, Kurt.

[@doug8237]

How well does this hold up to snow

[@sunnysidenz]

Hi Doug, thanks for your question. It can hold over 200kg per m2 of roofing. The main thing is that the structure underneath can support that. Usually with snow prone areas you'll put the purlins at 600mm apart, or even closer depending on area. Thanks, Kurt.

[@doug8237]

Thanks for the response. Good to know.

[@amyp112]

@@doug8237 I had the same question and the slope is very important. Many of these videos show flat roofs.

[@Flashbax]

Hi. I think I've stuffed up my install. The 50mm domed screws made for the polycarb like yours are too long and go through the timber and and poke through underneath. My timber is too narrow. I need 40mm screws but I don't see anywhere that sell them with the domed tops. Could I use non-domed screws instead that have the rubber seal? 😭

[@sunnysidenz]

Hi there, unfortunately you won't be able to use fasteners that just have the flat rubber seal. The washer generally isn't big enough to go over the expansion hole, and the flat seal won't form to the corrugation without squashing the sheet. I haven't seen anywhere that supplies 40mm screws with dome washers. I do know you can buy the washers by themselves, so perhaps you could buy some shorter screws and put the washers on them. I'd be worried about your purlins though if they're only thin. Normally we'd recommend at least a 45mm which would mean the screws don't poke through the bottom and they should be strong enough to support the roof in the wind etc. Thanks, Kurt.

[@Flashbax]

@@sunnysidenz thanks Kurt. I managed to find 40mm and added domes on manually. At the overlap of each panel, do you have to place a screw here at the edge or can you leave it to the next corrugation if it does not fit in with your every three or four screw placement setup?

[@sunnysidenz]

@@Flashbax Great, glad you found some 40mm ones. You do need to put a screw at the edge on each overlap. Usually the screw pattern is every 4th, 3rd, 3rd. over the 11 corrugations.

[@Flashbax]

@@sunnysidenz thanks Kurt for the prompt replies. All the best.

[@jennifersayers8041]

Hi from Ireland, I'm waiting on a greenhouse I bought and I'm a slight bit worried about the polycarbonate sheets that I chose for it, it's the same as yours I think. I just wondered, we do get some awful wind storms here living on the coast, would you say it would be ok in the storms? There's no shelter here and I'm worried lol

[@jennifersayers8041]

Thank you so much.

[@alexeyorlov9639]

What's your website ?

[@sunnysidenz]

It's www.sunnyside.co.nz

[@franciscomixan6370]

How much weight of snow can hold?

[@sunnysidenz]

Hi Gabby, thanks for your question. It can hold over 200kg per m2 of roofing. The main thing is that the structure underneath can support that. Usually with snow prone areas you'll put the purlins at 600mm apart, or even closer depending on area. Thanks, Kurt

[@jameswebster1070]

Gabby M.

[@truenorthdrone7139]

Dear Sunnyside Clear Roofing, Could i use this product on a Home made camper roof . Thanks

[@sunnysidenz]

Hi there, thanks for the question. Would you be using it as a skylight for an insulated camper. I.e. over an internal living area? The only thing with single skinned polycarbonate is that it does get condensation, similar to single glazed glass. So you'd get some drips in the living area. You'd probably be better off going for Twinwall, see www.twinwall.co.nz for details. This is insulated and prevents condensation. Thanks, Kurt.

[@santagonzalez4989]

Hi will these sheet hold sun and rain I would like a tan color, yours look beautiful.

[@sunnysidenz]

Hi there, thanks for your comment. They do hold the rain (5 deg pitch recommended) so the water runs off correctly. They also have a 99.5% UV protective coating, to stop the sun from breaking the sheet down. I hope that helps! Feel free to look at our website, www.sunnyside.co.nz Thanks, Kurt.

[@santagonzalez4989]

Thank you for the information...I live in Florida will it hold a hurricane?

[@sunnysidenz]

Not sure about that! It would probably depend more on the supporting structure and whether that would hold a hurricane. Here is a link for the wind ratings: sunnyside.co.nz/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Laserlite-2000P-Data-Sheet-Sunnyside.pdf

[@Reddylion]

nice.

[@amyp112]

I wish there was a way to install these and get around a building permit. It can’t be nearly as heavy as shingles, etc.

[@RAUSHANKUMAR-mc5tg]

what is cost of sheet per square feet..?Plzz reply.

[@sunnysidenz]

Hi there, these sheets work out to be roughly $14 NZD per square metre. Note: We are an NZ based company so can only sell within NZ. Thanks, Kurt.

[@chrism2350]

CUT WIRH A SAW HAHAH

[@sunnysidenz]

Yes we've done it thousands of times :)

[@jnorthrup1020]

where are your closer strips? Don't just use tape!

[@sunnysidenz]

I have foam infill strips up the top, in between the soffit and the top of the sheet to stop water being blown back. You don't need to use them anywhere else on an open structure. The only other place you might use them is down the bottom, if you're enclosing the sides and want to stop water and debris coming in the gaps. But if the sides are open then there's no point.

[@mrloverman2.0]

This type of roof is better installed in an area far away from the equator.

[@believer2010ful]

Why ?

[@oakridgeboy2023]

Inches dude come on

[@AquaLew]

Use google to convert from metric to inches. Come on... Geez, smh