How to Install Windows Like a Pro - No Leaks, No Drafts!

[@deehoro2393]

Pairs of galv jolts or pairs of stainless screws. The inspectors up here in Auckland always pick up if you only use one screw pack the sides and bottoms, not the lintel to allow for sag, pef rod and then foam. Another Great video. Thank you

[@joostwientjes2966]

Thanks Josh, I enjoy these technical videos..!

[@NicholasBrightneeko]

Using a laser level to mark a consistent and universal joinery head height is an excellent way to prepare BEFORE the windows are delivered to the site. Also, packing one vertical side of the rough opening plumb and sill to suit the laser reference will make everyones day easier..

[@cameronrolston6099]

With that head height, your only working with a 20mm tolarence right? So ideally you want all them window heads to line up perfectly not one be like 5mm low one 10mm high? Like the average person couldn't see that? So does it come down to good workmanship

[@Zjaan321]

More kiwi homes are starting to use recessed windows, would love to see a video showing the difference in installation from a practical side of things.

[@NOWAR-q7s]

Recessed windows are very common around the world and the installation differs very much from New Zealand for good reasons.

[@CrankiePantsNZ]

Thank you mate! I'll be using this next year.

[@sonny-balboa]

Spraying the Perf rod with a light mist of water will help the expanding foam stick to it too

[@remiewatkins8032]

Love your videos Josh Thanks for posting

[@aplacedownunder3389]

Thanks for your effort putting these videos together Josh. Question for you or someone - I note at 10:30 the corner ends of the short weatherboards appear to be cut at an angle (ie, not perpendicular), is this to allow any water that gets into the corner to better run off the bottom of each board at the lower corner, rather than running down vertically and possibly running along the capillary grooves or saturating the laps? Cheers!

[@moocha7572]

Hey mate, you cut external weatherboards usually on an angle usually around 5 - 7° that allows for the angle of the board when it overlaps the board below it. For timber weatherboards easy way to get the angle is to push hard down on the beveled back when you cut it on a 45° angle and that will give you the correct cut. If they were all square cuts your corners wouldn't work for the corner soakers, if you are doing boxed corner then you can square cut them. Hope this helps

[@paulgilliland2992]

If you waited for framing completion here in Los Angeles, you’ll be 12- 16 week’s behind schedule unless you are using cheap big box windows. I’ve seen plenty of 2 story homes grind to halt because the architect didn’t specify the minimum free opening space for emergency egress.

[@jacobmanihera8228]

Hi Josh. Just wondering what reasons would cause somebody want to resize their windows? Cheers.

[@mathewbentham1251]

Have you used the Jolt Screws to fix off ?? Gamechangers

[@eddiewang3331]

Hey Josh. Im not a builder but i had quick question about removing the windows packers. What's the reason for removing them? I would think it would provide a really good fixed spacing to keep the jams super straight and not risking the them to accidentally be sucked in by the fixings? If you could provide more clarity on this I would really appreciate it.

[@cameronrolston6099]

I'm not a builder either, only handyman. But have come across this with council too. It was on the head revel and to allow for any sag or movement from the lintel. I was told

[@eddiewang3331]

@cameronrolston6099 is that the same for the sides and bottom

[@HansumRob100]

@@eddiewang3331 sides packer stay n bottom

[@Capperr]

@@eddiewang3331 Just above the window because it is unsupported while the sides of the window are nailed to the studs which are mostly uncompressible. Same goes for packing the tops of internal doors. Hope this clears it up.

[@NOWAR-q7s]

And a softwood painted reveal on the floor is not a nice durable finish between the window frame and flooring.

[@JN-er5yu]

loved the intro!! more of that guy lmao

[@qwerttyyw]

Which Windows version?

[@Karvoc]

95 mate

[@STaraSVirk]

Xp all the the way

[@MatthewBayard]

Wouldn't you be better off spending a little more an upgrade to double glazed uPVC?

[@Nick_of_Time]

Is it possible to have the windows set further back into the insulated part of the wall, instead of outside the insulated envelope? Those WANZ bars essentially hang the windows out past the insulation, in the outside wall cavity.

[@cameronrolston6099]

American version of doing window installation looks far superior, but they add the revels afterwards

[@NOWAR-q7s]

@@cameronrolston6099 Most developed countries have superior window systems and better installation methods than New Zealand. Thank god European windows are becoming much more common making houses warmer and windows condensation free

[@NOWAR-q7s]

If you need those expensive WANZ bars your window is too far out.

[@richardatkins2961]

Yes, but the details referred to are the pre-accepted solutions in the NZ building code. These details are a band-aid that happened at the adoption of cavities, ‘how can we add a cavity, but change nothing else…?’. Setting the window in the insulation line is an ‘alternative’ solution that the designer needs to evidence meets code requirements. It will cost more to have an alternative solution assessed and checked, so the industry continues to choose the cheaper option. We have a saying, ‘a home that meets building code is the worst home you can legally build’.

[@VgniK88]

In oz they don’t do this it’s all pre ordered n put together half assed, just ask an Aussie chippy, most r half ass, not all but most .. had a builder in Melbourne build two homes over the years and if I wasn’t in building myself, they would’ve got away with it, passed by there overseas surveyors!! Always check slab n frame stage coz once the plasters up n floor coverings on your not going to know what’s underneath.. trust me most Aussie tradies in domestic building are dodgy!! Prove me wrong?? Watttt ttsss seen it with my own eyes!! 👀

[@NOWAR-q7s]

Same here in New Zealand. Would never let tradies work on my site without me being physically there. Have seen too many dodgy things happening behind the back of the owners and inspectors.

[@NOWAR-q7s]

Sorry, but this installation method is outdated by decades, not to mention the inferior New Zealand designed aluminium windows. I know I have installed windows here and in Europe since the early 1990's

[@David-g5t6b]

Any vids?

[@thelostgeneration2000]

Whole NZ Building code kept outdated in order to ensure artificial demand for housing and protect few inefficient businesses to make outrageous profits...

[@HSIOT]

Can you tell us what’s your preferred method please?

[@NOWAR-q7s]

@@HSIOT Not enough space for that. The basics are full thermal and weathertight seal with self expanding foam tape and no cold air cavity between window frame and stud. Recessed installation to keep in line with the wall insulation and better appearance. All this with window frames suitable for winter temperatures which is not given with NZ designed aluminium windows.

[@HSIOT]

@ Thank you. I’ll try to look it up as I’m always keen to learn new ways of doing stuff.