How to Install Your Own MrCool DIY Ductless Mini Split Heat Pump

Installation of any MRCOOL HVAC product must comply with all applicable codes and regulations. The service of a certified and trained electrical technician may be required for the installation process.
The Third Generation MrCool DIY ductless mini split is finally here! There are a few upgrades from the second generation, so if you're looking to get one of these to heat or cool your space, you might want to take a look at this video to see how to install it.
This time around, the MrCool DIY ductless mini split comes with a detached line set so you can install the indoor air handler much more easily.

[@orvillewooldridge417]

Put mine in 3 years ago. Compressor went out couple weeks ago. They didn't bother fixing it. Instead they sent me a whole new unit with upgrades. Best thing I ever bought. My electiric bill in July and August, is just at $100.00 and that's an all electric house in Oklahoma heat! Oh, and it heats well too.

[@JKLM_Family]

How long is the warranty?

[@lupitasmith9944]

@@JKLM_Family Ad came up and says 7 years, I believe.

[@ubacow7109]

Is it the same as the 3rd generation one?

[@specialestness]

Did you need a professional to install it to take advantage of the warranty?

[@myname9252]

@@specialestness Not on the DIY unit if im not mistaken

[@NotSoCrazyNinja]

At first, I was kind of steering away from these units due to cost, but, seeing as how easy it is and no vacuum needed, it seems well worth it. Avoiding all those things that I'm not overly familiar with will also increase the chances of success and reduce stress on my part.

[@mikefranks4528]

Amen. I had the same concern also. Just wish that Mr. Cool was above 30 SEER. That would have sealed the deal for me.

[@davidcalhoun1648]

Just got mine delivered and installing this weekend. Your video was a major factor in me picking a Mr. Cool unit. The video showed how easy your unit is to put in. I looked at other manufacturers, and even though they said "DIY" when you'd download the install manual they'd get to the part were you needed to get an HVAC guy out to charge the unit. That is not DIY, yours is.

[@MrcoolComfort]

Great!

[@Todd-W]

STUPENDOUSLY EASY! Thanks for the videos, 24k btu unit fully installed in less than 3 hours by myself... This is SUPER EASY, anyone can do it.

[@edwardcnnell2853]

Back in the 1960s, the time I believe this was done, Sears offered a DYI central air unit. All the components were pre-charged and tightening the connections pierced the seals and allowed the coolant to circulate. Heard about it from an old heating and air guy. Still a great idea.

[@NotSoCrazyNinja]

I love the idea of such DIY systems. Homeowners can have a great sense of pride doing things themselves (where legally able to, of course). When you start getting into pulling a vacuum on the lines and flaring and such, it gets too intimidating. It looks like the hardest part of this system would be the electrical, but that's not all that hard if you know what you're doing.

[@Mtofhills]

There seemed to be a missing bit about wiring this thing! You just said check the correct voltage and that’s it!!

[@butchleonard]

Also....."just unroll the amount of coil you need" what do you do with the rest? Leave it on the ground?

[@gilgonzalez5902]

@@butchleonard just leave the excess wrapped neatly behind the condenser.

[@ForrestFollett]

@@butchleonard looks like that's exactly what they did. You can see him securing it @3:32

[@annprince5218]

Yea, they just seemed to blow right past the part that I'd be the most concerned about doing...the electrical.

[@caseykittel]

@@butchleonard yep.

[@_bear_bull]

Can confirm it's that easy to install. The written manual has much more detail and wiring instructions. It was a great deal at Costco.

[@futbol1972]

What about the electrical, will I need to install a 240 v outlet or can I just plug it in in a regular 120v outlet?

[@shaywarren]

Ordered mine in March, just getting around to installing it this week. I'll update In a week with feedback.

[@adamUDavies]

Where is your update ?

[@shaywarren]

Took me about 7 hours total but that including crawling around under my house wiring a new breaker. Pretty easy to install and is working great. Currently in the 30s here in Missouri

[@maganpatel169]

Thank you for an excellent product with great video install. I installed an 18K unit and only has a few minor problems. The 220v connection screw tab is a little to small. The remote needs to be colder than the unit to get heat. I am hoping that it will still heat enough when the temperature drops in winter. It is whisper quiet with great features

[@Ep180]

How did it do during the winter? Would like to install the same unit but need it to heat 300sq feet in Michigan Winters.

[@GreenPowerFarm]

I need 7 of these right now!...I'm going to Home Depot !!!!

[@shahsmerdis]

they have multi zone units as well.

[@specialestness]

@@shahsmerdis i ordered a multizone system from Home Depot. I wish Home Depot would ship someone more common like UPS or FedEx Freight instead of Estes Express. I haven’t been able to contact the terminal its sitting at (has been for almost 3 weeks now) and I’d go there and pick it up but they are over 200 miles away.

[@nicklloyd9165]

I really appreciate this video. Can you explain why the tape rolls are non-adhesive? What?

[@garrettwaggoner793]

So you just leave ten feet of coiled lineset sitting behind the condenser? Won’t that trap oil?

[@CammyCash]

Oil? It’s electric.

[@NotSoCrazyNinja]

@@CammyCash They're talking about the refrigerant oil. Not sure if it will "trap" the oil, but probably not.

[@meangreen315]

No, that's why its do it yourself. No HVAC guy or tools needed.

[@specialestness]

It’s their installation instructions…and they’re offering warranty based of these instructions. So apparently it isn’t too bad.

[@Folau4Life]

@@CammyCash bet you feel dumb 🤣

[@rblibit]

A friend of mine installed a 115VAC SEER 22 and he had it set on "Meat Locker" (my name for the too darned cold setting) and his clamp on ammeter said the thing was only pulling 6.0 to 6.5 amps. I asked him if that was normal since it seemed too low for a 1 TON A/C, but I guess that could be OK for such a high SEER rating (22). Has anyone else checked the amount of current their 115VAC Mr. Cool units have been pulling? If that is normal - than that is AWESOME! I am sure starting currents will be higher, but he had the temp set on 72 (WAY TOO COLD for me here in Florida) and it was Freaking COLD in that room.

[@kingkole72]

It skipped over the electric install part....how do you hook up the power?

[@michaelmace924]

You run power to the outdoor unit, 115VAC for this unit, then you connect the communication wire to the indoor unit & run that along with the copper to the outdoor unit. It's all color coded so it's pretty easy.

[@dobrovik]

I did mine last year. It wasn't too bad. I went to my box store and got enough 40-amp rated copper wire to run a new circuit from my electrical panel to outside by the outside unit. A small shut-off box is required to be legal. It's so a serviceperson can be sure the power is deactivated. Ok, then from the shut-off box, you get what's called an "electrical whip", which is a special cable made just for connecting shut-off boxes to hvac units. From there, it's very obvious how to finish, it's all color coded.

[@keithhannah8277]

It is suggested to have a professional run the line with a disconnect for the outdoor unit.

[@timgleason2527]

Yeah, I’m totally cool with drilling holes and such, but I’m not opening my panel box up.

[@jimmyjeep96]

@@dobrovik If your unit is 115 volt, 40 amp breaker is too large!

[@criostasis]

Cool..... product! Sorry bad pun. I would love to get one of these someday. Only suggestion is the tools list should say two adjustable wrenches as the installer uses two at some points.

[@MrcoolComfort]

Thanks for the tips!

[@fudgesauce]

At 3:25 you say to wrap the refrigerant lines with the provided vinyl tape. But I don't get it -- it is a ribbon of vinyl with no adhesive. What is to keep it from just sliding off? I used some electrical tape to bind the top and bottom of that section, but it seems like a kludge.

[@jamesrowe6389]

I had the same question and I also used electrical tape. I just figured I did not know how the vinyl tape was suppose to be used.

[@dobrovik]

GEN2 owner here, would really love to hear there is an API so i can control my AC without needing the phone app. THX!!!

[@pluralgarths]

They have a newer WiFi dongle that has worked with my 2gen unit. I got it because it wouldn’t maintain a sustained connection. The new unit says it supports Alexa and google assistant. I haven’t tried out that function.

[@bluearcherx]

This is funny to me. We might be the only two people on earth that want an API for our A/C 🤣

[@ShyRage1]

How big is the cost savings?

[@jasonjohnson3424]

@@bluearcherx 😆🤣

[@jstraessle83]

Is it ok to leave the extra feet of line set looped? I have read certain people say you shouldn't do that because it will trap the oil. Can you clarify?

[@ibrahimamac]

I am a technician and we have never done like done. this kind of installation for home owners. I would recommend to you set condenser where line set end if you dont wanna see line set is sticking out and if you can't cut it shorter , clean line set . there is no point that people is trying hide line set on siding but it is sticking out back of the condenser like a crazy. Plus you dont wanna any restriction on line set it. it might decrease efficiency of unit.

[@keithhannah8277]

Just came to the comments section for the same answer looks like you didn't get it.

[@futbol1972]

@@ibrahimamac so ur saying to cut the hose to size without coiling the extra hose?

[@michaelfredrickwazowski4504]

@@futbol1972 absolutely do NOT cut the line set. It's precharged, just coil it up without any kinks and put it somewhere it'll look neat.

[@ralphlongo1975]

@@futbol1972 the hose is pre charged, I would avoid doing that unless you are an HVAC technician with the skills to do so.

[@jackflack9004]

Dear Mr. Cool, I was reading the install manual. I see the inside terminal block is labeled "L1", "L2", and "S". I get the L1 and L2; that's the electrical power coming in. But I do not understand the 's'. Is that some kind of DC signal. Thanks

[@MrcoolComfort]

Please call tech support at 270-366-0457.

[@jasonjohnson3424]

I believe "S" is your power "source" from panel as I've seen that used on wiring diagrams elsewhere but check with somebody that really knows electrical.

[@terracore]

I have a dedicated 20 amp outlet that was originally used for a well pump, couldn't I just attach a 20 amp cord and use the outlet and avoid a complicated electrical install?

[@MrcoolComfort]

Please call tech support at 270-366-0457.

[@fudgesauce]

At 3:51, it seems like rain that cascades down the side of the building has a path to sneak into any gap between the plastic housing collar and potentially get inside the wall. I don't fully trust that the insert sleeve is so snug that water can't get in. Is this an unfounded worry?

[@MrcoolComfort]

If that's a concern, you can always caulk around the interior ring of the sleeve.

[@Joe_1971]

So the compressor comes pre charged with refrigerant and all you have to do is connect the line set to the condenser? What about any potential moisture that makes it's was into the line set when you pull off the protective caps? Wouldn't those lines need to have a vacuum applied for at least an hour or so?

[@nogames1922]

Won't happen lines are sealed until they are tighten down onto the unit the cap is basically just for protection

[@kerrodmartorella4949]

@@nogames1922 so are the lines in a vacuum.until they are connected ? Or are they pre charged with refrigerant?

[@kevinjohnson7621]

@@kerrodmartorella4949 pre charged

[@futbol1972]

What about electrical 120v or 240v outlet?

[@futbol1972]

I just bought a 12btu window ac/heater for my man cave / 3 car garage but I have not install it yet. Looking at Mr cool unit now. Garage is fully insulated about 620 sq ft with 8 ceiling ft high. I have pool table and gym in there😁 I live in Clovis California with a zone 9b or 9 I think

[@donhackett9983]

How much lower does the outdoor unit need to be from the indoor, if any? Is there a certain drop needed for line set?

[@MrcoolComfort]

It does not have to be lower.

[@JoelsterG4k]

Dang, I want Mr.Cool to install my unit, the commercial shows he can do it in less than 17 seconds....Blind folded 😎

[@fredc8346]

Oh come on it was at least 20 seconds. But I did like and wonder how that outside unit came mounted already on the ground.

[@borys444]

Took me 44 seconds, only took so long cause I had to eat lunch in between.

[@michaelmace924]

@@fredc8346 they come installed on your property.

[@michaelmace924]

@@fredc8346 🤷‍♂️🤪

[@Just_Chuck_It]

The completely left out the most difficult and expensive parts. 1 creating a level surface to mount the condenser unit. 2 wiring the unit to your fuse box and assigning it to the proper wattage and circuit.

[@MrcoolComfort]

You can buy a cheap plastic base pad to mount the condenser. Or a wall mount. It's pretty simple.

[@speedviper47]

It's fairly easy. Get the dimensions from the specs on the unit. Determine where you want to place your unit. Build a form 4" wider and 4" longer than the unit from either 2x4 or 2x6. Place it where you want the outside unit to sit. Keep it at least 10" from the wall. Mix and pour 2 - 4 bags of concrete mix ($5 per bag) into the form. Number of bags will depend on size of bag and depth of form. Level off with a trowel or piece of wood. Once it sets, you can remove the frame and you're ready to go. I did this for a customer and it works perfectly. I made his pad about 8" tall to keep water away. Depending on where you live, you might want to consider snow. Also leaves and other debris that can get trapped around the unit. I'm from Ohio, but now live in SC. If I was doing this in a snow belt, I would build a 2 - 3' stand and place the unit on that. Also, the unit comes with four rubber cushions to dampen vibration. I would have installed these on my own if they hadn't come with the unit. As for the electrical, I'm about to start that. You are right in that it's the most difficult, and expensive part of the installation, especially if you have to hire an electrician to do the work. I'm comfortable with doing the electrical. My installation requires about 40' of wire from the unit to the main breaker. You will need the following (in some form or other) - ? feet of 3/4" Liquidtight flexible conduit (50' is $39) that will house and protect the wire coming from the main breaker panel to the disconnect box where the unit will reside, Important to note: THE UNIT REQUIRES A DEDICATED 20 AMP BREAKER. You cannot simply tie into another electrical line for power. ? feet of 12/2 wire with ground (50' is $42), a disconnect box $13, a 20 amp breaker $5, fittings and elbows $14, . You can buy all of these items at either Lowe's or Home Depot. Hope this helps!

[@MadMadOne]

What is the outdoor unit noise level in decibels? I found the information for indoor unit, but not the outdoor unit.

[@DScott8732]

i see in the instructions that it needs to be screwed into studs that is 16" on center. well my stud finder has my wall at 24" on center. will one side screwed into studs and drywall anchers work for the other side?

[@jasonjohnson3424]

I wouldn't. It's a little more drywall to repair but I'd add a brace on that other side. That's a decent amount of money hanging on the wall.

[@difarr1618]

Hi,.. Is the line set directional?... That's to say.... R the connectors specific to the indoor /outdoor units? Mine came with no identifying marks to orient correctly.... Thanks.

[@MrcoolComfort]

No, the line set connections are not air handler or condenser specific.

[@sonnyneu]

Can the line guard be added later?

[@MrcoolComfort]

Yes

[@CountyLineCarvings]

Cant wait to install ours in a few months. Thanks for a great product !

[@MrcoolComfort]

Hope you enjoy it!

[@marcosanchez6172]

So do you contaminate the refrigerant system with atmospheric air right off the bat or do you evacuate the lines prier

[@MrcoolComfort]

The lines are properly charged and sealed at the factory.

[@toothyankyDDS]

What is the difference between the MrCool DIY 3rd gen unit and the MrCool Advantage 3rd gen unit?

[@MrcoolComfort]

The Advantage is not designed for do-it-yourself installation. It requires specialized tools and training to install.

[@WilliamDumoreGlobz]

The remaining line set should be placed horizontally according to instructions & a few occasional & random you tube mentions.... but ALL the installs posts show it placed vertically including Mr. Cools. So what's the final position & why or why not?

[@MrcoolComfort]

Horizontal is best, but vertical is acceptable as long as it is loosely bundled.

[@WilliamDumoreGlobz]

@@MrcoolComfort Thank you for your time. I ordered a 3 zone unit, a single zone unit & 2 line set covers on Friday i believe. Looking forward to the installs as it seems fairly easy. I am even contemplating doing the electrical myself also. Some of the install videos that I have watched claim that the tools needed are included. Is that true or should I head out to get a hole saw?

[@MrcoolComfort]

We do not include a hole saw with the standard package.

[@WilliamDumoreGlobz]

@@MrcoolComfortI feel so sub standard now. I'm heading out.

[@kevinbrown1629]

Is there any way to conceal the coolant lines inside the wall or do we just have to put up with them out in the open?

[@MrcoolComfort]

We do have LineGuard line cover kits that protect and conceal the line sets.

[@kevinbrown1629]

That's not really what I meant. Can you hide them in the wall?

[@MrcoolComfort]

As long as your local codes allow it, yes.

[@bobw3677]

You can if you have not put up insulation and sheet rock yet. I did it to hide all the lines but, it was a major pain in the behind.

[@mikeehowell]

Please explain how it gets power. Dont I need a plug on the outside of the house to plug the unit into?

[@MrcoolComfort]

The air handler is wired to the condenser, and the condenser must be wired to a disconnect box.

[@mikeehowell]

@@MrcoolComfort yeah I see it needs a disconnect box that is wired from your electrical box. Looks like this should be done by an electrician

[@MrcoolComfort]

That is recommended.

[@PANDORGAS]

@@MrcoolComfort is it necessary to use a vacuum pump?

[@zackpercellvo7923]

There is no standard 120v outlet option?

[@distantdog]

I need to run the lines out the left side of the indoor unit, as I am mounting on a brick wall. The connections are so large with the sound deadening pads and other padding, they do not seem to fit in the space in the back of the unit to be run out the left side. What does MrCool recommend for this installation setup?

[@MrcoolComfort]

We generally do not recommend going out the left side of the air handler, though it is possible to install the DIY that way. Please consult with our tech team at 270-366-0457.

[@HeavyDuty608]

Did you notice a big change in you're electric bill?

[@dbrandon4528]

How do you wire it up to the electrical panel?

[@MrcoolComfort]

We recommend you consult a professional electrician.

[@evan8895]

@@MrcoolComfort thats very diy of you

[@futbol1972]

@@MrcoolComfort lol I fought it was dyi?

[@davidjoiner2831]

I installed a 18000 today works great only concern is the fan on the outside unit runs slower than I'm used to when I run the AC, is that normal? IDK if it matters it 60 degrees here. Thanks in advance.

[@MrcoolComfort]

Hard to say if that is a problem, since I'm not sure what you're used to! It doesn't sound to me like there is a problem, but if you are concerned you can always call our tech support line at 270-366-0457.

[@bobbyholland9357]

Every ductless mini I've seen has variable speed condenser fans. This means when less airflow across the condenser coil is needed, like on a cooler day, the fan motor will slow down. This is designed to maintain proper refrigerant pressure inside the system.

[@nechavataco191]

Can I mount the condenser in my garage? Or is this just an awful idea?

[@MrcoolComfort]

In the garage? We would definitely not recommend that.

[@nechavataco191]

@@MrcoolComfort I'm afraid there is no other way for me to do it, unless I mounted it on a concrete porch.. which would look a little tacky.

[@oldtowne1341]

What’s up with the coiled linset behind the heat pump?

[@meangreen315]

Line is precharged, do it yourself, no HVAC guy. If you measure exact , you wont have a coil, they have a few different lengths of line.

[@Andy-rp3ee]

The included instructions show needing a conduit for the signal cable. The videos all show the signal cable in the line set cover. Is that sufficient?

[@bobw3677]

You are right. The instructions clearly say use conduit. I know this video is supposed to show how easy it is but, the electrical is very important.

[@leonmcknight8774]

should how to hook up the disconnect and power from electrical box

[@Nextbigdeal]

If I put a splice in a flare is there refrigerant in the line already?

[@MrcoolComfort]

The DIY lines are precharged, so there is refrigerant in them.

[@futbol1972]

I t ought it was dyi.I guest not for the electrical. Lol. I tought I could just plug it in into a 120v outlet

[@-smp-scientificmethodpersp838]

So you just hook up some wires to the unit and plug the other end of the wires into the air and it will be powered by electrons in the atmosphere?

[@MrcoolComfort]

Yep. But mostly it is powered by wiring the condenser to a circuit.

[@f308gtb1977]

MRCOOL 🤣 👍🏻

[@MPFDCHIEF]

The 3rd generation instructions talk about the linseed being labeled A, B , C D. I could find no such labels. I am presuming either end can go to either unit.

[@MrcoolComfort]

You are correct in that either end can go to the condenser or the air handler.

[@MPFDCHIEF]

@@MrcoolComfort Thank You very fast reply

[@lewismartins5315]

@@MrcoolComfort Maybe update the installation instructions as this is confusing.

[@KeithStrang]

Is it ok to install the outside unit on a roof, assuming proper mounting? I know I’ve seen this in other countries with mini splits. Also, are shorter connection lines available?

[@MrcoolComfort]

Yes, you can install the condenser on a roof. Yes, we do have 16' line sets available.

[@Johnsong6]

​@@MrcoolComfort So the drain lines can go up and properly drain? I am installing in a basement.

[@MrcoolComfort]

You would definitely need a condensate pump for that.

[@ront8261]

@@MrcoolComfort How do i get the 16' line set? I was planning to order a 12K DIY unit and outside wall bracket from HD, but it only comes with a 25' line set.

[@MrcoolComfort]

Right now all DIY products have the default 25' line. The 16' line must be ordered separately.

[@josejimenez9441]

What about electrical? Does this need a dedicated circuit? How many Amps does it use?

[@futbol1972]

I asked the same thing

[@futbol1972]

Is this the Mr cool minisplit from Costco? If it is, I got recommended by someone online, however I been reading all kinds on mix reviews on this unit☹️ I have a 3 car garage/man cave with about 620sq ft with 8 ceiling night. I live in Clovis California with a 9b zone I think

[@MrcoolComfort]

Costco does carry MRCOOL DIY products.

[@fredc8346]

I just can't do the 25'. I only need about 10'. I should be able to have an A/C shop shorten the lines, but do the lines also have some of the refrigerant in them or are they just evacuated?

[@MrcoolComfort]

The DIY lines are pre-charged with refrigerant. 16' lines are also available.

[@fredc8346]

@@MrcoolComfort Are the lines standard copper with a covering to help with the bending or are they constructed in a way that would be hard to shorten by an A/C shop?

[@MrcoolComfort]

The DIY lines are copper. We have a spring covering to make them easier to bend. They are pressurized and charged with R410A refrigerant, so cutting them is not recommended without proper tools that allow for proper containment of the refrigerant.

[@mikeh4327]

what is the minimum clearance i need from the ceiling please? (also just in addition what is the size of the head unit that goes on the wall inside the house) thank you!

[@MrcoolComfort]

The size of the interior 'head unit' varies depending on the model. .The head needs to be installed at least 5.9" from the ceiling.

[@plutonium9]

After he mounted the air handler, you know he tapped it twice and said, "That's not going anywhere"

[@Veilspire]

I said the same thing when he pushed the bottom into place.

[@123mrchilango]

U can’t cut any copper? You have to use all ?

[@MrcoolComfort]

You should never cut the DIY lines. They are not regular mini-split refrigerant lines.

[@viclarsen9644]

Can you run the lines out of the side can’t go through the wall behind unit

[@MrcoolComfort]

You can run lines out of the right side of the air handler.

[@neilmadero2816]

@@MrcoolComfort can you run the line from either side of the handler?

[@TheComputerCowboy]

Cute. But how is it powered?

[@MrcoolComfort]

The air handler is wired to the outside condenser. It would in turn be wired to a disconnect box.

[@vbBegin1957]

Now how you connect electrically

[@BlakeSandenMedia]

Uhhhhhhh does anyone know how to connect the wiring for this thing

[@keenanwalker6597]

No vacuum pump needed to evacuate!? How do you clear the system and remove all moisture ect?

[@MrcoolComfort]

The DIY comes totally sealed from the factory. There is no need to vacuum or charge in the field.

[@Bigrignohio]

Do you still offer the 16 foot lineset versions? Out of stock everywhere I look. Would like even shorter, but realize that is unlikely

[@MrcoolComfort]

Yes, we do.

[@Bigrignohio]

@@MrcoolComfort Where can I find them? Thanks.

[@xes4eyes]

Where do you find the pads shown at the 3:06 mark or do they come with the unit?

[@MrcoolComfort]

Yes, they come with the unit.

[@JohnyBoy512]

Hello I ordered a t 12k unit gen 3 my friends came with 2 adjustable wrenches and a thick plastic platform to lay the outside condenser on but mine came with neither of those? I have my own wrenches but I would have liked to receive the pedestal for laying the condenser on

[@dobrovik]

4 cinderblocks will hold it up nicely without breaking the bank. I used masonry adhesive to glue mine to the sidewalk, and masonry screws to hold the unit down. I also build a pressure treated box around the unit to protect the lineset - the grills are open but everything else is closed off. We call it 'the bar' and it's great for keeping the beers on while we hang out in the backyard!

[@richardmoya6784]

So of i have 2 or 3 rooms, do I need to buy 3 units or just one unit for outside and 3 units for installing one on each room?

[@MrcoolComfort]

Right now you would have do an individual unit per zone with the DIY. However, we do have a multi-zone DIY coming out this summer, so you could have one outside condenser and up to 4 interior air handlers.

[@f308gtb1977]

MRCOOL , that’s awesome, I wish I knew, I would have waited.

[@RealNeil206]

MRCOOL this would be awesome. A 4 way split would make bank for y’all! I’m waiting now for a multi zone system. Was about to go buy one, but now I’m waiting.

[@janetalvarez7296]

MRCOOL how long before this new one comes out? I live in Phx and we only have a swamp cooler. It’s the worse during the months of July-oct

[@neilmadero2816]

@@MrcoolComfort Do you have a link to an install of the dual or multi zone? Thanks!

[@peanutbutterisfu]

Wait this system come charged?

[@RonKris]

Yes, the lines are charged on the DIY version of the MrCool mini-split. They also sell the non-DIY that much have the lines vacuumed then you release the coolant stored in the outside unit. there are several videos on youtube explaining the process.

[@Ricksauce]

yes,diy version line and unit,other version requires line to be vacuumed,but unit is charged. i did the non diy as it was less than half the price at home depot

[@MrcoolComfort]

Yes

[@TheMrtovar1234]

Where can i buy one ? Trying to cool 1,000 sq. Amazon been out of stock for ever!

[@MrcoolComfort]

You can find MRCOOL products on Home Depot, Lowe's, CostCo, Menard's, and other online retailers.

[@lohengrinknight]

Can I get one for two bedrooms separated by a hallway? I mean, using one evaporator unit outside with two cassettes, one for each room? I could go across the hallway through my attic in order to reach the farthest room. Each room is 312 ft².

[@MrcoolComfort]

Our Olympus multi-zone can be installed with a single exterior condenser and two interior cassettes. However, the Olympus is not a do-it-yourself product.

[@MrSemwool]

Where is the wall template? I have unpacked the box and couldn't find it. 12000 BTU/110V Model.

[@bmclaurine]

I had trouble finding the template ! It's printed on one of the pieces of cardboard and easy to overlook

[@ceremonialguardsman]

You said to "note the voltage for each system." How do you go about doing that?

[@MrcoolComfort]

Some units are 220v and some are 110v, so you must make sure the correct voltage is wired to the unit.

[@tremarrimorris1554]

Can you send a link of the 110 units, thanks Mr cool....

[@justonedan]

Do you not need to pull a vacuum on the lines?

[@MrcoolComfort]

A vacuum is not required on the DIY unit.

[@kerrodmartorella4949]

@@MrcoolComfort why? Can you elaborate more?

[@lannyfarmer208]

Unit is DIY, right? Then why does Warranty only apply if unit is installed by a licensed professional? Catch 22!!

[@MrcoolComfort]

It doesn't! Our DIY warranty specifically allows for non-professional, homeowner installation. I know, because I wrote the warranty.

[@annprince5218]

I have a small one-story house, just a little over 900 square feet with two bedrooms. Would the 24000 or 36000 btu units work efficiently enough to cool my two bedrooms just down the hall or would I need to get a 2 or 3 zone unit?

[@MrcoolComfort]

Properly positioned, a single-zone mini-split can condition a considerable space. However, a dual-zone or tri-zone might be a better fit.

[@notadumbblond3]

I've yet to see where it says HOW to hook it up to electricity. Does it plug in somewhere? Do I have to have a dedicated line? Does it hook up directly to my electric main? *HOW????*

[@ChrisKobe]

You need to have the outside unit (condenser) connected to a ‘disconnect box’ near the unit. The inside unit gets it’s power from a cable that is connected yo outside unit. I am assuming based on your question you do not know what a disconnect is. Have a qualified,person run a individual circuit to the disconnect.

[@billpizzifred5769]

Yes you need a dedicated circuit-- and a local Air Conditioner disconnect at the unit-- amperage and voltage (220 or 110) depends on your unit-- detailed installation instructions are on their web site-- mrcool.com/wp-content/dox_repo/mc-adv-3-im-en-01.pdf

[@jgriff19861947]

Nice video lots of help

[@Luistx22]

What about for larger brick homes - also I love the concept - but I don’t think I can install these with on the front side of my house - due to cosmetics and hoa

[@dobrovik]

i made a pine box for my line set - it looks far better than cheap white plastic. I painted mine with the same exterior paint - you could use brick veneer and no one would even really be able to tell.

[@befmx31]

Hey guys, I have a 25 x 30 metal building fully foamed insulated. 10 foot walls at the eves. What size DIY model do you recommend? I was thinking the 18K? Thank you.

[@MrcoolComfort]

That sounds right to us.

[@befmx31]

@@MrcoolComfort Thank you.

[@befmx31]

@@MrcoolComfort What if I were to go with the 24k unit? Would I be doing myself a disservice? Would it cause issues with the unit? Seems like the 18k btu is on the cusp. Thanks.

[@befmx31]

I may not have been 100% clear in my description of my building. It is 10 foot at the eves but there is no ceiling in it. The peak is probably 14 feet. Again, all foam insulation. 18k unit still okay you think?

[@MrcoolComfort]

Oh, in that case the 24k is not a bad idea.

[@jamescalifornia2964]

😎👌 That's pretty cool _Mr. C00L_ ...

[@nicklausmisiti5204]

Any advise on sizing one of these units? Also thanks so much for this product, you will safe me at least $5k over the over-priced HVAC guy.

[@MrcoolComfort]

We recommend the DIY 12k for up to 500 sq ft, the 18k for up to 750 sq ft, the 24k up to 1k sq ft, and the 36k up to 1.5k sq ft.

[@shahsmerdis]

its nuts, you can fuck this up 3 times and still be cheaper.

[@dobrovik]

I put the 36k in the upstairs of my barn, which is about 18,000 cubic feet. It's fairly well insulated, but with that in mind, it keeps it 72 degrees all summer long. It costs a few hundred bucks in July/August in electricity, we live in northern new england but we're still well below 45N.

[@ShyRage1]

Couldn't I just attach a plug on it and plug it in to its own dedicated line? I already have a plug where I want the unit.

[@MrcoolComfort]

The current DIY models must all be manually connected to electricity.

[@ShyRage1]

@@MrcoolComfort so why couldn't you just put a plug on it manually?

[@MrcoolComfort]

That would be possible, but it is not a format we support with the current models.

[@wallybrown9509]

You didn’t show how to hook up the electric?

[@lifelove562]

Anyone know how to fix a flap that opens to let out the air but doesn't go up and down anymore?

[@DrivingHy]

Is there an "optimum" mounting location for the air handler unit inside a garage? No one seems to talk about this... I have the garage doors and attic space above insulated. Since I also have 2 ceiling fans installed I'm hoping air distribution won't be an issue? I'm replacing an evaporative cooler that was installed in the back corner of a 3-car garage. I prefer that spot since the condenser would be directly opposite the air handler outside the wall. It's also shaded by a roof overhang and close to the electrical service. Another question is it true the coiled lineset should be installed horizontal or flat to avoid refrigerant from collecting and settling in the bottom of the loops? Thanks

[@MrcoolComfort]

Ideally you want to mount the air handler in a position in which it can distribute heat to as much of the room as possible. You can coil the lineset horizontally, though refrigerant settling has not been a major issue.

[@DrivingHy]

MRCOOL Sounds what your saying is it's best to locate the unit within the space to centralize the air distribution? Snce I live in AZ heating isn't so much of an issue... That in mind when I coil the lineset can I route it vertically into the attic first where I can coil it before routing it outside and down to the condenser?

[@MrcoolComfort]

Yes, centralization is the best bet. You can go up into the attic first. That's fine. Just make sure you have a plan for the condensate. It is gravity-drained. If you want to run the condensate line up into the attic, you would need to use a condensate pump.

[@jameslee3052]

I need 30 ft in length. is there any way to extend?

[@MrcoolComfort]

Coupler kits to extend line length should be available in the first week of June 2020.

[@mariomartinez8527]

Do you need to bleed the lines ?

[@MrcoolComfort]

No, you do not.

[@shadowdemon7770]

Wait, aren't you supposed to vacuum the pressure lines?

[@MrcoolComfort]

You do not have to vacuum the lines on the MRCOOL DIY.

[@Ricksauce]

they show the DIY version that has charged lines.

[@Nbrock90]

Does the olympus come diy?

[@MrcoolComfort]

The Olympus is not intended for non-professional installation.

[@thequietearthgardens]

What about the vacuum pump ?

[@MrcoolComfort]

Not required for the DIY.

[@filoboy844]

How is this an easy install bearish on this product

[@Bauer.03]

What happen if I get a power outage will unit start back up on it’s own

[@dobrovik]

Mine definitely does whatever it was doing before a power outage. Off=off, on=on.

[@ibrahimamac]

try to put surge protector on the outside braker. if it is power outage it might fry anything electrical even though they will cover on waranty but you won't. have ac for a while

[@leonmcknight8774]

how do you hook up the breaker for the system

[@lisaln3987]

Electrician

[@Tony-hk4zq]

Not as easy as they say, my brother said it was a pain in the butt to install the wiring part, but did it say it works good

[@chrisE815]

Wiring as in electrical? Pretty standard affair, no?

[@SFFireSoul]

Wiring was pretty painless and straightforward imo

[@josephmarwood9613]

Why no need to pull a vacuum on the line

[@MrcoolComfort]

The DIY uses specialized lines and valves, so vacuuming is not required.

[@manuelalmeida8629]

Easiest question on here but man, looked everywhere and can't confirm... is the line tape supposed to be sticky? Right now I can't find an edge to get a sticky side if it exist.

[@MrcoolComfort]

It is not supposed to be sticky.

[@manuelalmeida8629]

@@MrcoolComfort thank you!

[@Johnsong6]

Can the lines be run indoors? I am looking into getting a diy 3 multi zone when available and would have indoor units on either side of the house. Running cable all the way around the house seems excessive. Also what is the max line I can run to get to my condenser with the couplers?

[@MrcoolComfort]

The couplers for the DIY are not available yet. The max length currently is 25'. Couplers should be available later this summer. The lines can be run indoors.

[@coygraham5287]

How does one go about installing one of these in Florida? My garage desperately needs one of your 18k units but the walls are all concrete with Rebar. Something like an SDS drill?

[@MrcoolComfort]

We have a video where we show how to drill through brick. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pXrOq6CnfKyEa68

[@michaelmace924]

If your walls have rebar in them & your luck is similar to mine, you'll run right into a piece of that rebar. Better off drilling your hole first, then mount your bracket.

[@doddgarger6806]

Will these work ok on a regular generator in a power outage situation? I've read conflicting information

[@MrcoolComfort]

The DIY is not rated for use with a generator.

[@anonymousbaros4424]

@@MrcoolComfort I realize that your answer means don't use a portable generator with the DIY mini-split. But is it possible for use with other Mr. Cool mini-splits? What happens if the DIY is used with a generator does it just fail or does it catch fire etc.?

[@rickmellor]

@@anonymousbaros4424 they can't answer questions like this because of liability issues. It's not supported so they can't advise you either way... any answer could cause them issues in the event of an accident.

[@ethanschroeder9531]

Don't the refrigerant lines need to be vacuumed down?

[@MrcoolComfort]

Not on the DIY.

[@hvacemsca4696]

There is no need to vacuum the units line set ?????????? You should always pressurized the unit to look for leaks ,,, Line set is not always exactly so cutting line set might be required and will need to brazed coupling , if there’s no need vacuum this is great I doubt it !!!!

[@danielcabrera693]

No vacuum?

[@MrcoolComfort]

The DIY does not require vacuuming.

[@sherryhart519]

What I’d the outside is aluminum