How To Install Your Own Radon Reduction System

[@wd8dsb]

Nice installation. Lots of people commenting negatively about your fan being placed in the basement, but lets set some things straight. Actually Canada says the basement is the best location to prevent damage to the fan. I live in Fishers Indiana, and the city allows installation of the fan in the basement. If you think about it, if you don't allow the Fan to be located in the basement, then you should not allow gas furnaces or gas water heaters to be located in the basement. As Canada says regarding radon fan installation, "properly installed fans and pipes will not leak radon into the building and are usually installed in the basement". I will soon be installing my Radon Fan in the basement, no doubt about it.

[@proclaimliberty2000]

wd8dsb i’ve taken a lot of flack for this installation on everything imaginable. However, the system works great and I wouldn’t do anything different if I had it to do all over again.

[@proclaimliberty2000]

wd8dsb do you have a parts supplier to install your own system?

[@wd8dsb]

@@proclaimliberty2000 Our homes that were built in 2000 were built with the Radon mitigation system already roughed in (3" pipe installed from the basement floor all the way up through the roof, pits sealed, outlet installed in the basement for the fan, etc.). The only thing I have to install is the fan and the manometer and these can be purchased at any of our big box stores (like Lowe's, Home Depot, etc., or through Amazon.com). The other thing I have to do is seal up a crack in the floor as well as around the basement floor perimeter (where the concrete floor meets the poured concrete walls. Our city does not require a permit per the city building inspector since the electrical outlet was roughed in. I wrote a letter to the EPA yesterday asking for an update on their old requirements about not placing the fan below living space, and waiting to see what they now have to say as their requirement definitely has some flaws. There are definitely pros and cons to where the Fan be installed, and think the EPA original statement of not being in the basement is really short sighted and hard to support. Really glad my city allows placement of the fan in the basement.

[@proclaimliberty2000]

wd8dsb 👍😊

[@larry365]

UK and Germany also say inside is fine.

[@proclaimliberty2000]

I purposely mounted the motor indoors so it will be in a controlled climate which will make the motor last longer. Also, we don't leave windows open as we have A/C. If I could do it all over again I wouldn't change a thing.

[@kenarrington3064]

Here is the issue here though, your AC has a cold air intake somewhere outside to pull fresh air. Since you're not venting the exhaust correctly into the atmosphere you could easily be reintroducing it into your home though your AC's fresh or cold air intake.

[@sulk8200]

My AC doesn't take air from outside. It recirculates inside air.

[@proclaimliberty2000]

You're referring to the HVAC make up air system. Not an issue as it's on the other side of the house. Sorry, but there is no 100% fool proof venting where some may not be re-introduced back into your home at one time or another. As long as the system is working properly it's a mute point.

[@chovis38]

proclaimliberty2000 Yea you'll get a lot of negative feedback about the setup....code etc....honestly that's what I thought when I saw the setup as well. But in the end....what's worse? Not having any radon removal means at all? Or something in place that does remove radon? I think it's great you have something, but yea, I would make the changes recommended as well. Just keep in mind with anything you post, people will always find something to gripe about. *I do like the lexan sump pump cover, so you can see water level in there. Might do that with mine at some point.*

[@alphatrion48]

Yeah Proclaim Liberty 2000 it might not bother you that it's installed wrong but putting it on the internet for others to maybe base their system off isn't right. This system is totally wrong. And I'm just saying that to protect other people who made think about doing it this way because it's easier but it's not, you're just wasting your time and money do it right

[@astelraimedia4149]

I see a lot of videos like this where the pump is in the basement and that it's working fine. I'm thinking about installing in my new home because I know from the test there's over 300 parts per million and the radonaway instructions say to install the motor in the attic or outdoors. I don't feel comfortable doing the attic install and outside gets to - 45 and colder in the winter so I've been considering just installing the motor in the laundry room and having it discharge out a dryer vent cut beside the existing vent used by the dryer and setting it up the way you have it.

[@Chris-cf2kp]

Radon can extrude from anywhere in your basement. It seeps through the foundation as a gas. It can also exist in the water which spreads it further where it does continue to be radioactive and emit. A sump pump combo will not automatically address Radon too if say, it's emanating most from the other side of the basement, from the wall even.

[@hankl8823]

What were the numbers after the installation of your system (at least 2 weeks after the installation)? The units used to measure radon is Picocuries Per Liter of Air (pCi/L). In NY state 4 pCi/L requires reduction, which is equal to smoking about a half a pack of cigarettes per day . Our levels were 11 in the basement and 4 in the living space. The goal is to reduce the basement below 4. Since the install was today I will test again in 2 weeks. I just had a system installed in our present home. I went through this in 1988 in our previous home back when few people really new much about radon or the health hazards. The contractor installed the evacuation fan, AMG Prowler, outside and ran a vertical stack above the roof about one foot. He explained that the vent must be at least 10 feet from any opening entering the house. In our previous home the evacuation fan was in the attic above our garage and vented out through the roof.

[@proclaimliberty2000]

After 10 years since the installation, I am still getting a reading of 1 in the basement

[@Electric_Overland]

I ran across this view and wanted to let you know that there are two serious issues with your radon set up. 1st is that the pump should always be outside or above any living spaces (attic) which your's is above a bedroom. In addition, you should always have it exhaust above the lowest point in your roof at minimal. In your current set up the air can be pulled in from a window when open. I would highly suggest you make these corrections.

[@wd8dsb]

Actually Canada says the basement is the best location to prevent damage to the fan. I live in Fishers Indiana, and the city allows installation of the fan in the basement. If you think about it, if you don't allow the Fan to be located in the basement, then you should not allow gas furnaces or gas water heaters to be located in the basement. As Canada says regarding radon fan installation, "properly installed fans and pipes will not leak radon into the building and are usually installed in the basement".

[@robinmurray9801]

WRONG! People giving advice, that shouldnt be giving advice, are a problem.

[@guidedbygreen1480]

@@robinmurray9801 A fan located in the basement does not meet post-1991 EPA recommendations or standards. If inside, the fan must be located in an unconditioned space, e.g., the attic.

[@jay_jjacobsen6695]

@@robinmurray9801the test would determine effective installation or not, right?

[@jay_jjacobsen6695]

@@guidedbygreen1480 EPA? Remember that is the fed government who doesn't have people's interest at heart. EPA? Remember 2023 East Palestine, OH when they set the spilled chemicals on fire, polluting the air way north into Canada even with airborne Agent Orange? That EPA?

[@lindseysrouji5229]

Wow this looks great! We just had a radon company install a system and holy cow does it look like a kindergartener did it. They hand cut the lid crooked and the caulk is absolutely clumped up everywhere. Also did not use those boots just clumped up caulk around the pipe it looks so awful :( I will be showing them your video, your installation looks very professional I love it!

[@proclaimliberty2000]

👍😊

[@DAINGUYEN-zh9lc]

Awesome , I see some guys dig a hole in basement and make radon reduction from there, one thing I want to ask you way and their way will work the same , and because I see you use sun pump hole instead of dry hole in basement Appreciate

[@bruceoronte8696]

Todays code reads that the fan is required to be outside and the vent pipe be at least 12" above the roof edge. Two feet above any window...

[@alexl9199]

You know, my house was around 2 - 3 pci - both on the lab test and safety siren pro radon detector I bought for continuous monitoring. I did exactly what this guy did. My reading went down to 0.3.....There's a lot of professionals that want to scare money out of people, but if doing it the "wrong" way still cuts the radon level by 90% and I didn't even need it in the first place (Below action level of 4) - who cares? If I ever want to sell my house, I'll remove the radon system and patch the hole it used. Radon would still test below the action level, and I'll still have had piece of mind for the duration of my residency.

[@NickRoquet]

Because gubmint says so.

[@mfarver]

The rule is that no section of pipe that is under positive pressure (ie the outflow of the fan) may be inside the conditioned area of the home. The idea is that should the piping leak you don't want to be pushing the radon out into the house.

[@rb-rq7kq]

lol but you can do it on a furnace or water heater

[@dunlapmusic8850]

@@alexl9199 And, you could keep the hole and just run pipe up the side of the house.

[@MRoy-rt3nu]

Excellent video. Can you please provide links where you purchased the materials for the sump cover and gaskets? Thanks

[@proclaimliberty2000]

radonaway.com

[@proclaimliberty2000]

I don't remember the name of the website where I bought it but the motor brand is "RadonAway".

[@drewbush6535]

what if it comes in the bed room window or the soffit vent

[@beckyschwantes5287]

This does not meet code. There are regulations dealing with your exact questions. It needs to travel up above the roof and has to be so many feet from any window or soffit/soffit vent.

[@ashoksrinivasankalyani4222]

You mentioned that , your neighbor does not have radon. Do you mean not high level as you have or no radon at all? I am curious to know that you can find a home without radon at all.

[@genedipaula]

How far down into the sump pump well does the pipe leading up to the unit go? Just above the water line of the sump pump well?

[@joshuawiedenbeck6944]

Just below the lid. You don't want any chance of water covering it up

[@oberweiss7190]

What he didnt say is what hisnradon readings are now. I had a system installed that made a mess of my exterior looks with this huge fan hanging off the exterior wall… My radon levels are unchanged.

[@jtsays429]

Maybe your neighbors having mitigation systems works for the house in between, and lowers that houses radon also

[@wicketandfriendsparody8068]

I have a huge ground water problem. When the water table raises it pushes mycotoxins from mold in the ground into the house. If your house is super sealed and insulated well this amplifies the issue. First the mycotoxins enter the basement and through the trench effect climbs to the upper floors. This system should help with my issue. :)

[@proclaimliberty2000]

Wicket AND FRIENDS PARODY BiZ厶ЯЯо PRODUCTIONS This type of system should absolutely solve your problem. However, make sure the outside water from rain is draining away from the house as best as possible.

[@wicketandfriendsparody8068]

My property was built on a swamp . Nowadays you can’t put a basement in a property like this. I’m literally at the bottom of a valley in all directions. I’m taking on water from miles around. :/ In the 50’s they didn’t put ventilation pipes under floating slab in the basement. It’s looking like I have to get vent pipes cut in and your tubes. My whole neighborhood has moldy air just from being in the valley alone. I wanted to get dry wells and put my gutter downspouts into that, my property isn’t high enough for them to drain properly. They may work somewhat though. Rain would Take the path of least resistance and go out of the pipe to the street before it would seep into the ground. I’m gonna bring in fresh air from the ridge area of my roof which is above the valley. This will put the house under a positive pressure to isolate the living space from the neighborhoods’ air. Thanks for the advice and posting this innovative job. :) Rainwater is a problem all right, I’m taking on the entire neighborhoods water and surrounding towns at that:(

[@proclaimliberty2000]

@@wicketandfriendsparody8068 Wow, you definatlely have your hands full but you need to try something for your families health sake or move.

[@wicketandfriendsparody8068]

This climate change thing isn’t helping much. We had record rainfall like 5 years ago. After that Green Lichens started growing on trees that are indigenous to this immediate area. Even though these trees were growing g here when it was a swamp, lichens weren’t this widespread . I saw in one of your comments, your levels went from 30 down to 1 I think. Just that alone is a significant drop. Just to get some fresh air, I’ll try your set up to bring immediate relief until I get this water situation resolved . Lot of work, basement slab from 1950’s so they didn’t use vent tubes in the slab. I’ll tell you mold will have you sick as anything. Doctors won’t know what’s wrong with you:/ Let’s just say I’m NOT having a pleasant valley Sunday lol :/

[@proclaimliberty2000]

@@wicketandfriendsparody8068 My system has worked fabulous and works just as good today as the day I put it in. Do you already have a sump pump crock in your basement floor with a sump pump in it?

[@remtekenvironmentalllc8772]

So..FYI. The fan is installed in the basement. If the fan housing develops a crack or leaks (which they do). The house will fill up with a radon value much higher than original. The fans are always installed at the exterior or attic for safety.

[@arvinzhao473]

Hi, where did you buy these rubber boots for discharge pipe and electrical cord? I was look for them around, but was not able to find ones. thanks

[@proclaimliberty2000]

radonaway.com ask for Dave

[@Tom-fw2jr]

what was your radon gas readings after you installed your system?

[@proclaimliberty2000]

I had a radon reading of 30 in my basement before I installed my system and now I have under 1.

[@DanHank]

IMPOSSIBLE. There is approximately 4 outside

[@thomasschmitt5768]

DH TV his basement is inside

[@kenarrington3064]

Unfortunately your meter was not calibrated correctly or you're placing the meter on the concrete slab vs at the correct measuring height. Under no circumstances can you possibly have under 1 pCi/L. Walking around outdoors is barley under 1pCi/L per the EPA. 4pCi/L is dangerous, you should mitigate anything over 2 if you don't want to get lung cancer. Real simple, 4 pCi/L is the equivalent of smoking half a pack of cigarettes a day...adds up quick when your infant starts smoking they day they come home from the hospital. But yes...you are either lying or you didn't run the test correctly. It's not my opinion, it's math and science, simply not possible.

[@curatolo1]

I'm a Radon Testing Professional in Raleigh, NC - NRPP Measurement ID: RT-107466. Unfortunately, there is a LOT of misinformation on this thread, and before folks read this and make decisions based on it, some prespective. The average outdoor Radon concentration is 0.4 pCi/L, the average indoor concentration nationwide is 1.6 pCi/L. The point where the EPA recommends "consider fixing a home" is between 2-3.9 pCi/L and the point where they say to "FIX THE HOME" is 4 pCi/L. Each pCi/L is equivalent to 1 cigarette per day, so a home with 3.7 pCi/L is the equivalent of 3.7 cigarettes a day. Now, if a cigarette a day for 15+ years will shorten a person's life by a approx. 100 days, then a home that is 3.7 pCi/L will shorten a person's life by ONE YEAR/370 days (remember this is still below the 4 pCi/L "action limit"). Looking at this video with an open mind, and really just concerned with the health and safety of the occupants, I WOULD NOT encourage anyone to proceed in this manner. Get a professional and learn about protocols for mitigation to ensure it is done correctly. At the bare minimum, get an independent 3rd party who specializes in testing to audit the work of the mitigator (IE after the system is installed, get a certified Analytical Radon Tester to come in and run a monitor for at least 48 hours under closed house conditions). As a testing professional and not a mitigation professional, I see the ramifications first hand of cutting corners. Most pro mitigators CUT CORNERS and disregard protocols. The Radon Mitigation Protocols set in place by AARST/NRPP are there to ensure that mistakes are not made, mistakes that result in people getting lung cancer. I'm not trying to sound smart, or impress anyone. This is all I do, just Radon testing. In addition to testing homes for folks before they buy, I have to test homes with mitigation systems for effectiveness. I need to understand what goes into a mitigation system and at least be familiar with the "why?" of their protocols. Simply put, I see folks do things like what is in this video, only to have rip the whole system out when they sell the home and pay a professional to do it right - AND they can not undo the damage that was done to their family's health after it's been done. Radon causes lung cancer, fixing it should be done correctly, it's NOT worth being cheap on something this pervasive. Simple, reliable, easy reading on Radon: www.epa.gov/radon/publications-about-radon (the second publication called Consumer's Guide to Radon Reduction is for folks that need info on Mitigation, the situation many of you are in. The first publication is for those looking to test a property they are potentially buying) Respectfully, with your best interest in mind, Rudy Curatolo, owner of Advanced Radon Detection Services, Raleigh North Carolina. www.radontestingnc.com

[@The_dfish]

The radon reduction pipe needs to go above the roof line. You are pumping it out down where people are breathing it

[@larrykent196]

Right, how not to mitigate a Radon problem. While understanding there is a problem and doing something about it, great idea, however it is poorly executed. As soon as I seen that, I stopped the video and went to reading the comments.

[@carlah1607]

Not sure if you are in the US or Canada, but the concerns over the fan being inside as well as the dryer vent are legitimate. Sorry --- don't mean to be yet another person to point it out, but you should check out the EPA.gov website. They require the unit to be outside for a reason. (maybe if you had a digital radon detector that beeps when the levels get above 4, then I'd feel better. I do understand the concern for the unit not being in the weather.) Also, the biggest no-no to me is the vent being so close to the ground. It is an absolute fact that you are not giving the gas enough room to dissipate adequately before being absorbed back into the ground. It really should be at least 10 feet off of the ground. Your readings might be better but as a mom, it still concerns me!! I have a system that works great (professionally installed, but now looking to move it ourselves to finish our basement). Our next door neighbor didn't get one even though we told him about ours. His wife died this year of lung cancer after living in the house for less than five years.

[@shaunboyce727]

+Carla H "His wife died this year of lung cancer after living in the house for less than five years." Wow, where is the evidence that radon was the "cause" of the cancer, think a moment about what you are saying, association is not causation.

[@carlah1607]

+shaun boyce You're right. Association is not causation. But I still believe an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. If I can I do something differently and just as cheap that in the smallest possible way MAY be safer to myself or my family, I will.

[@shaunboyce727]

Statically speaking you have roughly 1/16,000 chance of getting lung cancer and dying from radon. I'm not advocating you don't get a radon test, but would your neighbors wife not have died if they had done something different? 5 years is a rather short period to get lung cancer if it was from radon, and your assertion implies exactly that, but there is not evidence to prove your theory.

[@charleschastain2674]

doesn't the pull a it in through the discharge tube of you sumpnpump so it may not be removing as much as you think. and if the sump pump kicks on you you and a set up to have the vacuum pump turned off to keep from sucking water in?

[@alexl9199]

Why would you ever have to bother doing this? The sump pump ensures that the water level will never even come close to the level of the fans air intake (at the very top of the sump). It's like just barely sticking a straw past the lid of a cup thats half full. If there's another system making sure that cup never gets more than half full, you'll never suck anything but air out of that cup.

[@wicketandfriendsparody8068]

With the Lexan cover sealed, when the pump turns on it may suck air from radon tube. It’s been running 8 years so the pump using the tube as a vent doesn’t seem to damage the fan. Sealed sump lids call for a vent pipe like sewage pipe . For code it may call for the fan to turn off while pump is on. It works fine as is it seems though. If you wanted to turn the fan off while pump is in operation you can use a current sensing relay or hawk eye we call them. At the point you’d need a step down 24v transformer for control voltage and a contactor to control the 120volt fan. You could also use a 120volt coil relay and wire the fan into the normally closed terminals on the 120 volt relay. This is if you want to go crazy 😜 on this thing . Then may as well wire it to play Edgar Winters Frankenstein song when in operation :) Seems to be working as is lol no need unless your selling the house ;)

[@sunnyd6019]

I am confused and maybe someone can help. If you hook up vent this way how do you know your pulling from (ENTIRE) slab? I know most times you have a test hole on other side and see if your getting a negative then your good. Being in the sump how does it pull from under the slab? Again just confused so if someone can educate me I would appreciate it because I may do this method but I am not sure it would solve my issue on the entire basement per say. Cheers and thanks for help.

[@wisconsinwoodsman1987]

Typical sump crocks will have drainage pipes that go out from the crock under the foundation to collect water. This is how access to the under-foundation air is made.

[@5aeedrad]

Does this work if the concert slab has expansion joint all around it? Do I need to seal the expansion joints first to make the slab vacuum sealed?

[@joshuawiedenbeck6944]

Yes. They make a specific caulk for filling concrete joints. The more you can seal, the better

[@genesisradon1630]

good workmanship, but theres alot not to code...the biggest isssue, and im not here to critique, just voicing a concern. installing the fan below liveable space, although " sealed" theres always the potential for a leak, and a possible increase in your radon level.

[@proclaimliberty2000]

Genesis Radon Thanks for your concern but I believe my system is just as good if not superior to any other system as my radon levels continue to excel my expectations. Alot of people including myself could not afford to have a system installed by a contractor which is unfortunatle. And lets face it, a system (or anything for that matter) is only as good as the installer and quality of workmanship. Installing the motor outside is plain STUPID as it will not last nearly as long in the outside elements and creates a very annoying noise issue to next door neighbors. And what's with these contractors caulking the lid shut. I mean seriousley; what a nightmare in every aspect.

[@gobskiii]

proclaimliberty2000 genesis here. Caulk isn't a permanent seal, but your sump pump isn't a forever thing either, it will go bad and need changed. But they are sealed to prevent possible back drafting if close to combustion appliances. And or to prevent pulling air from your basement increasing the negative pressure your home naturally creates and in turn possibly making your radon problem worse. We will agree to disagree on the longevity of the fan. It's a motor and it goes bad to. It's only a matter of time. Yea it's possible it could last longer not being exposed to the elements but those fans are made to run in water, and adverse conditions in general. Glad to hear your system is running and the problem corrected. Back to the sump though a permanent seal would include a polyurethane based sealent, which is the code, but never usually followed for the above reasons.

[@gobskiii]

proclaimliberty2000 oh and I forgot. As far as noise is concerned, code in the states says the vent pipe shall terminate 12" above the roofline. And shall be 24" above any Windows within 10 ft. That being said 90% of the noise is produced from the exhaust point. So if your exhausting like you are, then yea the noise is stupid. If it were vented by code, you would probably never hear the thing. Or very very faintly. From experience.

[@waynewang8904]

+Steve Pasterchek You had a good point of possible radon re-entering the home.I have not seen windows on the wall where the radon is exhausted. On average I would guess 2% of the radon would re-enter the home considering the diluted radon and the amount of air renters the home due to negative pressure draw by the radon system, in the case all the windows are closed. Without the radon system, how much radon enters the home? I would guess 60 % or 90%. Why would noise be a concern from outside? The hotel air conditioners make tons of noise but nobody seems to complain, not to mention all the garbage bath room fan. Americans are immune to noise anyway! When it comes to the radon system, I think those code writer over kill. Those noisy bathroom fans and air conditioners should be banned

[@waynewang8904]

+Steve Pasterchek Exhaust leakage concern is another reason for the requirement of installing fan outside. Again, how much a concern is it? not to mention these DWV pipe can easily be installed water tight by a senior lady. The concern of out door electric safety is more than the concern of radon leakage from the exhaust pipe. Compliance to electrical code does not mean 100% safe. Let me ask you this question? Do you have concern that your drain pipe in the basement may leak so why do not you install all the water proof electric near the drain pipe. The politicians in the EPA want their ass to be clean to create these requirement and those radon contract makes it a big deal in order to make good money. I believe my own intelligence, not politicians.

[@ncooty]

@1:20: ppm or pci/l... or maybe bq?

[@proclaimliberty2000]

Second one!

[@ncooty]

@@proclaimliberty2000: Thanks; thought that was likely the case, but wasn't sure if there's a different measure. I started to ask about the "after" readings, but scrolled down and found it (~1 for over 8 years). Thanks for posting; always good to see actual DIY projects done well. (I saw that some have mentioned various code updates, but the main thing is to compare it to the alternative.)

[@chadsweigart100]

Does the radon discharge pipe go right into the water in the pit? Where does this pipe site in the sump pump?

[@proclaimliberty2000]

Chad Sweigart you never want the discharge pipe touching the water in the sump pump. The discharge pipe is maybe 2 inches below the top lid.

[@dunlapmusic8850]

You said 4" PVC, but it looks like you went from a 4" pump down to 3" PVC? I'm deciding which PVC to use. I think it might get better suction with 3".

[@proclaimliberty2000]

I used all 4" PVC. Use all 4" PVC. You want volume!

[@dunlapmusic8850]

@@proclaimliberty2000 OK, thanks. I just got my pump in the mail. I didn't realize the pump was 5", or whatever it is.

[@proclaimliberty2000]

Dunlap Music 👍😊

[@poeplay2008]

Awesome work

[@braden8737]

So you cant have the motor on the inside of the house, but you can have a furnace, hot water heater and drier all connected to gas and all exhausting co2 from inside the house?

[@richardrobertson1331]

All valid and good points to consider . . . especially since natural gas (methane) contains radon which cannot be filtered out. It simply goes thru the drier or water heater combustion chamber and then is exhausted out the vent pipe unchanged.. No one wants to mention the truth about lung cancer, anyway. The truth is your individual DNA is the most important factor. That's why many life long smokers may live to be 95 and still have no lung cancer. But the government can't start a new agency over DNA and tax and issue penalties over it, and industry can't start new businesses to deal with it.

[@RandyKrakowski]

Thank you for the video. I love the idea of the clear Lexan so that you can see the sump! Where did you buy the black rubber rings to seal the cords and PVC pipes?

[@proclaimliberty2000]

Randy Krakowski I bought it from Dave at RCI 800- 523-2084

[@jwjwebster]

When the pump runs, how does air get in through the vent if you have a motor constantly pushing air out?

[@proclaimliberty2000]

+J Webster The air is drawn from the drainage tile pipe that empties into the sump pump crock. The drainage tile pipes under the cement floor have holes in them which is covered in peastone. This allows the rising radon gas to be captured and exhausted before it enters the living area.

[@jwjwebster]

Ah, so the same system couldn't be used for an ejector pump then as that needs to draw air in as well from the vent pipe

[@saboorsaboor704]

@@proclaimliberty2000 these people are clueless and trying to scare you. as soon as the radon gas vented outside it will mix with the fresh air and the concentration will go way down so even if some of it get back inside through any opening it will be harmless.

[@melovemusic69]

@proclaimliberty you seem like a "comman sense" guy in which that seems to be a characteristic trait that is going away with people today. I'm going with your way.

[@Uneedacut]

how far do u put in the 4 to 6 inch pipe in the subpump? im guessing just above where the water flows in?

[@proclaimliberty2000]

David Cantu I just checked it. The pipe extends two inches below the lid.

[@Uneedacut]

thanks if i have any questions ill message u

[@mirandachamberlain1641]

What type of rubber boots did you use for the pipes and eletric chord.

[@proclaimliberty2000]

+Miranda K. You have to buy them from places that sell radon reduction sytem parts.

[@darkvader47]

Thanks for explaining having the motor on the inside of the house. Also, isn't having the PVC vent all the way above the gutter or roofline overkill? I love your dryer vent concept. If they can vent the furnace just outside the basement wall, why not the radon too?

[@alphatrion48]

darkvader47 please do not install your system this way. The fan is installed in the living area of the house which is wrong it needs to be vented 18in above the soffit and the highest point. It needs to be on its own GFCI protected circuit, and there are some very simple things you can do to make it look better on the outside of your house, you can get a cover to paint to match your house and then run downspout up from the fan up and match your existing downspouts and gutters. If you do it this way when the home is inspected for sale you will have to correct it then and it's one more thing to deal with when selling your home

[@jay_jjacobsen6695]

@@alphatrion48 I guess a person always has to think, sell the house. Make the buyer's bank happy. It would be interesting to find out how many banks have radon installation companies, too?

[@stuff34]

What size PVC are you running?

[@edcollier2526]

Excellent video and workmanship! I can tell you took your time to think about placement. I have a quote for 2k to install this system, I think I'll be doing it myself!

[@garyvillanueva8571]

System is not code

[@edcollier2526]

@@garyvillanueva8571 are you referring to the placement of the fan? Or something else?

[@garyvillanueva8571]

@@edcollier2526 Fan placement and also exhaust are both wrong. Fan should be outside or in attic. Exhaust has to be at least 10ft off ground and 2 ft above openable windows

[@jay_jjacobsen6695]

@@garyvillanueva8571why? If the radon test is coming back really low now what's the beef?

[@LamboBoy8649]

Could you link the rubber grommets that you used

[@proclaimliberty2000]

It’s posted in the description

[@224rebels]

Won't the suction on the sump basin cause additional Ingress of water into the basin? Possible premature failure of the sump pump? Thoughts on this anybody?

[@proclaimliberty2000]

Based on my own personal observations of my system the answer is no.

[@Sumpalarminc]

Nice job. Very Clean. Your installation is wonderful. The see through lexan sump cover and the application of the rubber boots is innovative. Our company sells wi-fi enabled sump pump alarms, and we have a lot of experience seeing sump installations but we have never seen a clear cover! It could be a product in itself. Also love the way you T'd above the fan to get a two point anchoring. Very well done!!

[@alphatrion48]

Sump Alarm Inc. Do not base your system on this one. It has multiple issues that are incorrect and will need to be corrected when you try to sell the house. Just do things right the first time and it's one less thing you have to worry about when selling your house

[@benspeakman2623]

what were the ppm's after the system was installed?

[@proclaimliberty2000]

Installed ppm's 1.0. After 8 years of operating my radon system 24/7 I still have a radon reading of 1.0 ppm's and my vacuum gauge still reads 1.25

[@alpaca7886]

My question is, what are the radon readings directly at the exhaust vent and at designated distances from the vent? May all be a mute point. Sounds like more code BS to me. Installation of a fan outside in my climate area would destroy the blower in a matter of a few years. Unless the vent pipe was completely broken on the exhaust side of the system within the dwelling, any leak would be probably be undetectable. Even with a leak of 30%, it would still be better than having nothing at all. The cases I have seen, the radon levels were detected in the living space, so a simple exhaust system with a fresh air supply we theoretically reduce the amount of radon. Yes a radon system is more effient, but my point is to think about other options, especially for those that may be on fixed incomes. Therfore, removing the need for a radon system. Note, the construction methods in Idaho, predominantly use raised sub floors, with significant foundation vents. They do test for radon on new construction and requests, but it has not seemed to be as much of an issue for our area. I will add we are a bit behind in vast amounts of code and licensing, but we are make some progress.

[@proclaimliberty2000]

Please do not take this the wrong way but in my opinion radon readings at the exhaust would just be a waste of time. A lot of this code stuff is just more big brother crap. I'll take my system over code installed any day. Unfortunatley, there is no other option that I'm aware of to resolve the issue with existing construction where radon exists other than to install a system. And yes, unfortunatley some people on fixed incomes cannot afford this but we don't live in a perfect world. This is one area where certain people could ceratinly use help from the government, but the government is more concerned about maintaining over 800 military bases around the world and all of its other pork barrel spending. I would rather remain behind than having my life regulated away. Enjoy it while it lasts.

[@alpaca7886]

proclaimliberty2000 I totally agree. I've worked in residential construction, what makes it into code and what does is mind boggling.

[@amelvin32]

How does it pull the radon from the other side of the house? Through the dirt?

[@proclaimliberty2000]

Through the perforated pipe in the peastone gravel under the cement floor.

[@amelvin32]

@@proclaimliberty2000 Oh ok. So are there any house slabs that are poured right on the ground, without any gravel? If so, then this system probably wouldn't work?

[@proclaimliberty2000]

I have seen people on KZbin that drilled a 4 inch hole into a cement slab poured on top of dirt and still pulled the radon out. However, if a concrete slab has a sump pump crock then it should naturally work for pulling radon out of the ground like I have.

[@amelvin32]

@@proclaimliberty2000 All right thanks for taking the time and answering my questions.

[@proclaimliberty2000]

Javias 👍😊

[@proclaimliberty2000]

After 8 years of operating my radon system 24/7 I still have a radon reading of 1.0 and my vacuum gauge still reads 1.25

[@andrewgilliland7259]

proclaimliberty2000 Where did you find a fan so cheap?

[@David_Lee_33]

proclaimliberty2000 a

[@johnjewell9633]

My problem with this is the supposed unit's of measure. According to EPA standards the units of measure are in Pico Curries per liter not pars per million. Not saying this is the best way to measure levels of concentration, but non the less that's the typical way of expressing levels of concentration.

[@proclaimliberty2000]

You're right. I accidentally spoke the wrong unit of measurement.

[@BigGameDave]

I'm not saying your job isn't professional looking, but why do you see "professional" jobs usually vented through the roof or at least above roof level ?

[@alphatrion48]

Dave R this is a total hack job. There are so many things wrong with this system it is not even close to pass an inspection all he did was waste time and money this video should be taken down because people are going to base their systems off this

[@melovemusic69]

You negative people are trashing this guys system either for two reasons. One your a radon mitigation installer who charges 1500 for somewhat of a similar setup except through the roof. Or you are an envious consumer who fell for the thieving company's that install the systems and after seeing this wished you would have done some research on KZbin. This guy is doing it his way because he wants to save money and the way he did it will be fine for him.

[@Ur_GurlMillie3]

Where is the best place to buy a motor? What brand ? Web site?

[@andreygolovchenko]

TheJasko23 Amazon

[@wendyghobril1605]

In Mike Holmes video the motor is inside. Just because some code is written doesn't mean it makes sense. The motors job is to create air flow and pressure drop. One commente worries about the Radon reabsorbing into the ground???? ?It is in your house because it likes to comes out of the ground. I personally find this system to be well though and I will probably do one just like it.

[@proclaimliberty2000]

The system has worked flawlessley and keeps radon levels at or below one.

[@wd8dsb]

@@proclaimliberty2000 The latest EPA documents no longer say where the Fan must be mounted. Actually Canada says the basement is the best location to prevent damage to the fan. I live in Fishers Indiana, and the city allows installation of the fan in the basement. If you think about it, if you don't allow the Fan to be located in the basement, then you should not allow gas furnaces or gas water heaters to be located in the basement. As Canada says regarding radon fan installation, "properly installed fans and pipes will not leak radon into the building and are usually installed in the basement".

[@proclaimliberty2000]

wd8dsb 👍😊

[@yamawwad]

hi , what are the states in usa that has the highest percent of radon ? thanks

[@proclaimliberty2000]

+Yamawwad Y www.radon.com/maps/

[@alphatrion48]

Yamawwad Y the areas around Pennsylvania where they do a lot of uranium mining has some of the highest levels that I am aware of in the US. It's not uncommon for a house to be over 2000 picocurries

[@craigtitus9843]

Not to mention you don't get the warranty on the fan unless you're a licensed radon professional.

[@alexl9199]

So you're telling me that in states like Alaska, where there is no license for radon professionals, companies simply won't honor warranties? Or are you saying that this is a secret provision that literally isn't in the warranty conditions, at least for fantech? Or are the reviews on Amazon talking about having gotten warranty service pathological lies? In any case, I'd love to know what makes ensuring a fan is vertical, level, and then plugging it in such skilled labor. Either way, you don't exactly sound like you know what you're talking about. I hope you don't think of yourself as a 'professional'

[@alphatrion48]

In my eight years of installing radon systems and sending bad fans in for warranty work or replacement not once have they ever asked me for my license number. And if it's been over a year I just have the homeowner send it in and I've never had an issue

[@andreygolovchenko]

Fan is the least/last thing you should worry about - they are cheap and usually last for than 10-12 years. Why would you need to worry about 5 year warranty? Make sure the installation price is right and that you are not charged $500 an hour given the cheap price of materials. Fan warranty is part of the sales pitch more than anything else.

[@rodhaffer2905]

Nice job but definitely would not approved in any way by a mitigation installer. See previous comments for reasons its got flaws.

[@hankl8823]

Just a followup comment: a radon partical is roughly 0.5-3.0 nano meter in size. It was explained to me that a hairline crack in your basement floor is equal to a golf ball thrown into the Grand Canyon.

[@jasonli1420]

where to buy these stuffs?

[@proclaimliberty2000]

+Jason Li Just do a Google search.

[@oh_look_bananas]

proclaimliberty2000 I bet Jesus would gladly tell you where he got his, but you on the other hand don’t have time to help your brother out and say I got this at Home Depot, this from that website, etc. This is a deadly gas and you don’t have time to tell anyone where you found some of your supplies. WWJD. God bless.

[@craigtitus9843]

Hope you don't have to sell the house, because all of your work will have to be done over correctly and to code.

[@alexl9199]

Or in my case, just ripped out. My radon levels were 2-3 pci before doing exactly what this guy did. If I ever want to sell, I'll just remove the system and patch the hole. It's not like I'm at the action level anyway - I simply enjoy that for under 200 bucks, I was able to easily do it the 'wrong' way and cut that down to 0.3 pci.

[@drewbush6535]

so that does vibrate thought out the house?

[@jasontrimberger6765]

As a radar mitigator this system does not follow any protocols and coded that are put out there by the EPA and the NRPP please do not follow what this gentleman has done

[@proclaimliberty2000]

I am sick and tired of people like you implying that somehow my system is flawd and doesn’t work the same as a system that you would install. I’ve heard horror stories of systems installed by supposed professionals. My system has worked flawlessly with zero problems since the date it was installed with the highest quality parts in the industry. You can take your EPA and NRPP government horr masters and shove it Jason!

[@kenarrington3064]

PLEASE READ THIS IN ITS ENTIRETY. Your outdoor pipe needs to be run 2 feet above the roofline or easement, and 10 feet away from any building envelope opening (windows, vents, doors) for your family's safety. You can disguise it with a commercial grade (schedule 40) outdoor gutter. You've done a great job with everything else, just raise that pipe and you'll not only pass an inspection if you ever sell your house, but it'll be significantly safer. As the radon is being mitigated in your current system it's being blown in one location, which is actually concentrating it on one location of your property vs dispersing it into the atmosphere.The code is written by the EPA for very specific reasons, I urge you to do the right thing and run the exhaust pipe correctly, you never know a $10 piece of pipe could save one of your kids lives (4 units per liter is the equivalent of smoking half a pack of cigarettes per day). Radon is currently the most dangerous health hazard to anyone living in a home, even higher than as Asbestos. Write back with any questions, I'd be glad to help.

[@alexl9199]

That code was written by the EPA based off a 1994 study that says you get 10x more re-entry of radon if doing it this way than the roof way. 10x sounds scary until you realize that we're talking about 0.1% re-entry when at roof line vs 1% re-entry when at ground level like this. Seriously, go read the study. Sure, this isn't to code, but I don't care if 1% (or hell, even 10-20%) comes back in my house. If I'm below 1 pci and I don't build my kids swing set next to the vent.....I just don't care what the code says.

[@grasfarmrs2004]

If you ever open your windows it's coming right back in.

[@proclaimliberty2000]

I don't open the windows by it. And don't be fooled, the wind can still blow it back into any open window even if the exhaust stack is above the windows.

[@melovemusic69]

Once this gas is expelled into outside air a desperses it is so diluted that it is pretty much harmless.

[@kenthorne7721]

Too many 90 degree bends reduces fan push

[@chrislebreton750]

If you don't know what you're doing don't encourage others to do the same

[@trwendorff]

Not to code. The termination of the radon systems needs to be at least 10' above grade level.

[@alexl9199]

Who cares? Those regulations are to stop you from putting it next to your window you like keeping open or by the lawn chair you spend half your weekend relaxing in. His radon levels are now below 1, and it's not like he paid a professional to do this. If he ever sells his house, just knock the system out, patch the hole, and remediate if the new buyers want to test. In my case, I wouldn't even feel bad about the above advice, since my radon levels were 2 - 3 before doing what this guy did. Now they're 0.3, but if I ever wanted to sell, I'd just remove the system. It's not like I was at the official action level before hand anyway.

[@BigTony2Guns]

Not CODE!!!!

[@_D_E_N_N_I_S_]

DO NOT PUT THE FAN IN THE BASEMENT

[@proclaimliberty2000]

dennis b Ya let’s put an electric fan out in the elements😂

[@_D_E_N_N_I_S_]

proclaimliberty2000 Radon away and fan tech are weather proof. Putting the fan in the basement is against the dep in our area. I install 3 outside every day and replace ones that have been running for 20 years. They are to go outside or in the attic. If there’s a leak in the pipe or the fan it will pump radon in your basement at a much faster rate..

[@_D_E_N_N_I_S_]

It also needs to exhaust above the roof line.

[@_D_E_N_N_I_S_]

proclaimliberty2000 you run electric the same way you install an ac unit. Conduit and outdoor romex.

[@_D_E_N_N_I_S_]

But you’re right. I’m just a certified radon technician. What do I know.