How to Level, Set Z Offset, and Make an ABL Mesh, on an Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro & S1 PLUS

​‪@GreggAdventure‬ will show you my Leveling, Z-Offset, and ABL setup, on an Ender 3 S1 PLUS & S! Pro
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[@3DRundown]

Have I helped you? Help ME continue this channel with some support: Click the "💗THANKS" button, to Tip or Venmo.com/gregg-cerenzio Become a KZbin Member, by clicking "JOIN" Use my Affiliate Links when Shopping: Amazon Link: amzn.to/2miGQq9 Creality: shrsl.com/424l2 Sunlu: sovol3d.com?sca_ref=2756755.r8WNQiJdNf Sovol: www.sunlu.com?sca_ref=4022320.F0sV6y4ht9 Support me via my Course: 3DRUNDOWN.COM

[@MicrowaveOven78]

By far the most effective bed leveling tutorial on youtube. I couldn't recommend this video more 👍👍

[@mack6529]

This video was a life saver for me. was having the hardest time trying to get z-offset to work properly Hopefully more people can find this video. was very helpful and straight to the point.

[@3DRundown]

Thanks so much! Means allot. Happy to help. Feel free to share it. Consider my Udemy Course "3D Rundown" 3DRUNDOWN.COM

[@AskeEriksen]

oh the irony

[@buster154]

Until I watch this video, I was prepared to give up, now by following the steps shown, my printer finally works as intended

[@3DRundown]

Awesome. I love hearing that. Welcome to the channel. Consider a Super Thanks, or becomming a Member, to help me, continue to help others. :)

[@michaelrobbins6450]

Glad I found this video i was getting frustrated. great tutorial

[@BoycottHollywood]

Subscribed. Thank you for this video!

[@3DRundown]

Welcome. :)

[@DrCJones]

After so many videos, you absolutely win. Thank you!

[@3DRundown]

Very welcome. Happy to get you rollin!

[@ilikebacon123a]

WOW! this is an awesome guide. The other information I found wasn't nearly as good as this is. You got me up and running all in about 20 minutes. Thank you so much!

[@3DRundown]

Thanks so much. This one was on my to-do list for a long time...

[@-FOXX]

I have to agree, and thank you very much. This is wonderful. Thank you very much for the very straight forward guide.

[@gregobrien6165]

Outstanding! You rock at this. I love the 3 part checklist! Common sense. Great

[@3DRundown]

Thanks so much!

[@3DRundown]

Have I helped you? Help ME continue this channel with some support: TIP: Click the "💗THANKS" button Become a KZbin Member, by clicking "JOIN" Support my Patreon: patreon.com/3drundown Use my Affiliate Links when Shopping: Amazon Link: amzn.to/2miGQq9 Creality: shrsl.com/424l2 Bambu Lab: shrsl.com/46lky Sunlu: sovol3d.com?sca_ref=2756755.r8WNQiJdNf Sovol: www.sunlu.com?sca_ref=4022320.F0sV6y4ht9 Support me via my Course: 3DRUNDOWN.COM

[@Matthew-bg8uz]

THANK YOU!

[@henrythompson7595]

Oh man, You should work for Creality! I must have visited a dozen sites to determine how to set the Z offset on my 2 day old Ender3-S1-Plus, you have been the very best at explaining exactly how to do it! Now, if we could just get someone like you to write the Creality users manual, in BLACK INK ON WHITE NON GLOSSY PAPER, (who in the H**L decided gray print font size 0.4 on glossy white paper was just dandy?) this 80 year old "Senior Citizen" would just be tickled pink.!!! Keep up the excellent work my friend! Now, if I could just find a new motherboard for my CR10-V3.......it has a non functioning micro USB jack, have to wiggle the USB cable and curse loudly to get it to work.

[@inekev.d.heijden3393]

First video about leveling that I understand. I’m still a newbie re Creality Ender machines. How do I remove filament (heating the nozzle), without starting to print I know it is stupid not knowing. TIA

[@3DRundown]

You can manually heat the hot end at the machines screen. Poke around and you will find it. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZSQmZlmZ7WCfMk

[@KurtCoconut]

this video helped me so much but every time i do one side it undoos the other. do you know how to fix that?

[@3DRundown]

much smaller movements on the wheels, Down on one side, will bring the other side up. make a few passes, making very small movements

[@KurtCoconut]

@@3DRundown Ok, thank you for helping me!

[@tomirish3220]

Thanks!

[@3DRundown]

Welcome! Appreciate you. 🙏🏼🙏🏼

[@AHollowVoiceSaysFool]

Great directions, they got my bed trammed. One weird thing I noticed was my front left wheel was much looser than the other 3 when I was done. Is this normal? I'm worried that it's too loose and the normal vibrations of the printer will turn it and ruin the tramming.

[@3DRundown]

If it's lose enough that you feel like it can move, it probably will. They should be firm enough to stay put. You could tighten that wheel till it feels better, then tram the rest to it.

[@AlexTackett1998]

The video's really did help me out, you deserve it lol

[@3DRundown]

Epic, Thank you! Means allot, and super helpful. 🤜🏼🤛🏼

[@AlexTackett1998]

@@3DRundown so it felt like the printer kept losing the leveling,even though i was sure i had leveled it properly the prints wouldn't stick to the bed.turns out i had run auto leveling first THEN manually leveled it.I was about to reassemble the whole thing over that lmao

[@Kaizagade]

did all this yet when the print started it was 1cm above the actual bed when printing....

[@3DRundown]

That's your Z Offset. Lower during 1st layer it till it's good

[@tupiz]

after creating the mesh the distance between nozzle and bed is different than before. Is either to high or pushing the build plate down, it does not stay the same... I find it very hard to level this printer :/

[@3DRundown]

Not a leveling thing. It's a Z Height thing. Have to adjust your Z-Offset, during -st layer of a print, then save it

[@AudioRevive]

What G-Code would you recommend? G29, or M420 s1 Z10?

[@3DRundown]

No G29 JUST "M420 S1" after G28

[@AudioRevive]

@@3DRundown Thanks!

[@BNtrenching]

Question.. i just upgraded from the Ender 3 V2. I have used the paper method without issue since day one. Whats the point of the auto leveling if you still have to use the paper method? Seems just like a extra step.

[@3DRundown]

Hey there. I got you: kzbin.info/www/bejne/r5iVq4l3ltCYfbc

[@ren4x401]

Great video man!

[@3DRundown]

Thanks so much!

[@johnx9318]

Good tips, but why not leave the Z offset until after levelling the bed?

[@3DRundown]

Because I want to reduce the amount I need to raise the bed, just to level it. If I don't bring the Nozzle to the bed, I need to bring the bed to the Nozzle. Moving the Nozzle is easier

[@johnx9318]

@@3DRundown That makes sense. I've seen this a couple of times and was puzzled by what seemed counter-intuitive logic. Thanks for the response - much appreciated. (new to 'proper' 3d printing)

[@DemonDNF]

New motherboard, when I do the first step, I have to travel over 5.00 of z offset. Is there some setting I'm supposed to set first? (New mobo, new screen kit) I tried to lower the Z axis first, but the printer ignores that when it homes.

[@3DRundown]

The printer will home to 10mm. Z Offset is for Printing only. Loosen your knobs and raise the bed, if it's that low

[@jrh2023]

Hey just wanted to let ya know found your stuff great tips you have goin gonna use em for my 3d prints keep at it 👍like and subbed

[@3DRundown]

Thanks so much! For more, hop onto my Udemy course, and private FB Group! 3DRUNDOWN.COM

[@keithdavison7357]

Hi. I feel like a step is missing orbthings are a bit differentbfor the s1. I dont have that screen with the 4 corners and center. Aftervyou home are you dropping the Z the 10 mm that it raises when it homes. Im a bit confused

[@3DRundown]

Hi, they are indeed very different firmware. Here is my S1: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qJK2iGqZeayCmMk

[@keithdavison7357]

@@3DRundown thank you 😊

[@Derp_pool]

Hey man, very late reply here. But I have a question. When i did the test print rabbit it didn't make a circle around mine like yours? Is this normal? How do I fix it?

[@3DRundown]

The Skirt? Total non issue. It's added (or not) during slicing

[@Derp_pool]

@@3DRundown Oh, ok thanks. Print came out fine anyways.

[@3DRundown]

Yup. It has no baring on the print. Can be helpful, if you are adjusting Z-OFFSET, and such, as it gives you a look at the 1st layer, and time to adjust, prior to the model starting

[@MessyGarageBMW]

Can't you do the same thing in the menu with the alt level and the set locations 1 - 5?

[@3DRundown]

Yessir

[@MrRadicalsheep]

After you get into Aux leveling do you hit 1 then set your Z-offset? Then 2-5 are done with the knobs? or in your case the 4 corners while the machine is off?

[@3DRundown]

I prefer to do it manually. Only takes a few min and you are done. Whatever way you do it, you will want to set your offset LAST. The slightest change in Z-Height, will affect your 1st layer. Gotta dial it in last.

[@MrRadicalsheep]

At the 2:30 mark of the video I do what you are doing but the z-axis is so high that I can not get it to grab the paper. It will not let me go past -5.00. Any idea what is going on? @@3DRundown

[@3DRundown]

-5 is too much. You may have skipped through, and not seen the part where I used the knobs/springs to bring the bed UP toward the Nozzle, while it's at 0. Then, while the springs are still tight enough to stay put, start the Z adjustment again.

[@billbrown994]

Thank you so much very helpful...but you guys who make these videos are experts and every time you guys print, everything is perfect. The reality is the guys at home watching you are newbies and will have lots of problems...it would be great to see the experts say..".Hey look my pla is not sticking, it is sliding around on the bed..?let's fix it".. This approach would be very helpful because this is reality for the dummies at home just starting...In reality,my pla is sliding all over and never adheres and changing z axis does not seem to help. It would be great to show us problems and then show us the fix. Thanks. to help the dummies. Thanks.

[@billbrown994]

Why go through the tedious self-leveling, and then do auto? The auto made the distance too far again..These machines are just finicky..no wonder such a small number of people do this 3d printing.🤣

[@3DRundown]

Take my Course.... that is exactly why I madr it: 3DRUNDOWN.COM Also, tell you a secret, I shot this video the first time I ever did this on a P1P, and only 3 days after getting it. I'm learning the P1P just like you guys. You can do it! 👍🏼✌🏼

[@billbrown994]

@@3DRundown Thanks for your kindness but truly 3d printing is only for people who want to spend hundreds of hours learning how to do this from scratch..or maybe this creality s1 pro is garbage. Wtf? 10 years on and the manufacturers cannot make a bed to remain level??? I would pay 5 times more for plug and play. This printer is like driving a car and stopping every 5km to fiddle with the engine..pure waste of time. newbies should know that after 3 days of watching videos and 20 hours over 3 days, they may have absolute nothing to show for it..nothing!!!..I have tweaked all settings one by one and still not able to get past 8 percent before the the pattern moves around..tweaking temp, z, bed, retraction, cleaning bed, etc..WASTE OF TIME!!! ONLY FOR HOBBYIST with hundreds of free hours to spend and enjoys fixing stuff.. I do not have the luxury. I do not want to be an Ender mechanic. After 3 days use will sell it. I will try another brand to see if better..otherwise I will wait until these machines become plug and play. Thanks.

[@sobolanul96]

@@billbrown994 Bed leveling is an issue because aluminum warps with temperature. If you do not use the heating option, you will have less problems with warping, but more with adhesion. Also at the price point the printer is still a compromise. Professional solutions cost a lot of $$$. I do not understand why your pla is sliding, my printer worked fine out of the box. Since buying it in November I have been printing almost daily using PLA and PETG. PLA seems very easy to print with. PETG is a bitch sometimes because of stringing, but after some tuning the quality is great. My only issue with the printer was that learning to use CAD software takes more time than I'd like it to.

[@TheOctabreaker]

I finished leveling and all that, and noticed it didn’t save my z axis so I had to stop and restart my print a few times and keep adjusting the z. Not sure what I did wrong but so far it’s printing well. I had a tiiiiiny bit of stringing just before I adjusted one more down but so far so good.

[@3DRundown]

Adjust your Z Offset WHILE it's printing. *Only on the 1st Layer*. After the 1st layer, Z Offset doesn't matter

[@TheOctabreaker]

@@3DRundown I did. My cat print came out beautiful. I don’t want to have to adjust the z every time I print but at least I know what number to put it on 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@3DRundown]

You don't. Set it, and forget it. Just click SAVE on the screen in the firmware.

[@ryandennis7550]

The paper doesnt even touch the nozle on mine and the z offset is at its lowest

[@Jer29]

You've gotta hit the "1" first

[@3DRundown]

Raise the bed some with the knobs.

[@stormworks4882]

I ran through this process over 5 times, and every new print the Z Axis resets itself on too high of an offet about 1mm from the bed. this is after I have Leveled and tram the bed while heated. all my spring adjustments are proper. I am at a complete loss for what to do, other than trick the printer and hastily adjust the bed as it starts the print. This is my 3rd 3D printer so I am by no means an expert but this one is throwing me for a real loop.

[@3DRundown]

Your Z Height (Z Offset) shouldn't be changing. During your first layer, baby step your Z-Offset down, till it looks and feels good. You should be able to rub the layer. *Save* and it should stay

[@3DRundown]

Also, just checking.... make sure you don't have a Z Stop switch installed

[@stormworks4882]

@@3DRundown thanks for the reply mate. An update I checked the start G code default in cura for the Ender 3 pro, and there were 2 lines of G1 Z ( note says to avoid scraping the build plate.. which makes no sense if it's all leveled properly). Long story short, I deleted those completely. And now it seems my prints are okay

[@stormworks4882]

I would've skipped the "Pro" version for all the hustle. My Ender 3 stock has been chugging along perfectly. Besides the plastic nozzle cover I have. No complaints with it

[@mattyt531]

Hello! I followed your assembly video and this video have good prints and good adhesion. Thank you. I have been checking the bed with this method before my next print and the knobs have to be re adjusted. I tram again and the print/adhesion is good. I assume this isn't normal and I might be missing a step somewhere. Do I need to check with the paper after every print? Do you think my initial spring tension isn't right? Thank you again.

[@3DRundown]

Hi, If you have good tramming, and a working Mesh (with ABL via CR-TOUCH, or BL-TOUCH), you should not need to adjust your knobs again for another print. You shouldn't need to touch them much at ALL. I would make sure you started from a snug enough position, that they aren't moving during the print. Also, if you have stock springs, I would upgrade to the Yellow Springs. They hold their tension much better

[@mattyt531]

@@3DRundown Thank you. I trammed the bed earlier, this time tightening them more than my previous tram. After the ABL my print is still coming out good. I will not touch the adjustments and continue printing. I want to ask if it is a good idea to add ABL to the gcode in the slicer I am using for each print? I appreciate your time and help.

[@3DRundown]

@@mattyt531 In order for your machine to use the Mesh, you need "M420 S1" after G28. I wouldn't have it run a level. Only do that when needed

[@squirralien1863]

Just curious, you turn it off to tram the bed going from one corner to the other, I have been doing it just pressing the four locations on the touch screen in Aux level, so do you turn the printer off just to speed up the process. I don't mind the time it takes doing the movements on its own, or is there a reason to turn the printer off freeing up the motors. I can get the four corners spot on and the centre of the bed is still needing the nozzle considerably lower. I did have a warped bed and with a steel ruler could slide paper under it in the middle easily, now I have a new bed which is straight it seems to still be lower in the middle, any suggestions ??

[@3DRundown]

I turn it off, as a shortcut to Disable the Steppers. Personally, I usually just disable the steppers. But, for a beginner. Turning it off is a sure way to know I get them to disable their steppers. Truth? Remove that bed, and replace it with Glass.

[@rosamariabetancourtleal9133]

Hello, please help, I have an Ender 3 S1 pro printer. I changed the nozzle and when I try to level the bed, it lowers the extruder and the nozzle sticks against the bed and makes a very ugly noise, the cr touch works, I put a book on the bed and it did those 2 steps well. I raise the z axis. But when I tell him to level again he crashes into the bed. And raising the z-axis while making noise from being in contact with the bed makes me afraid to wait so long for the z-axis adjustment window to activate. I don't know if the limit switch needs to be adjusted. Thanks in advance 🤗

[@3DRundown]

If you have a probe, you need to remove the Z Stop Switch.

[@zac2877]

did you put a touch screen on your S1? is mine replaceable with the model unit that you have in this video @ 1:19?

[@3DRundown]

No, touch screen kinda sucks. I left the knob screen on my S1. It has better firmware options. This S1+ comes with the touch screen, I still use it.

[@zac2877]

@@3DRundown thx for saving me from a useless touch screen rabbit hole ;)

[@Etheralysium]

Maybe I'm just an idiot, but I genuinely cannot figure out how to get my printer low enough to be able to be as thin as a piece of paper. I'm at least getting five mm every single time. This is very frustrating and I can't find any troubleshooting for this exact problem. Maybe it's set up wrong somewhere down the line cuz I had somebody else set it up for me so I just don't know what's going on.

[@3DRundown]

Are you skipping ahead, or following along fully? Be sure to follow it all. Your nozzle will home at 10mm. It will only go to 0, during a print. Manually move your print head to 0, then, switch to Z-Offset adjustment, and bring it down to the paper. If it's really far, you can loosen your knobs to raise the bed to the nozzle first. Make sure you do not have a Z-Stop switch installed

[@Etheralysium]

I'm such a newbie to 3D printing that. I thought the sensor with the lights was the nozzle this whole time so you were definitely right and I was just completely wrong lol

[@3DRundown]

We'll just pretend this never happened. 🤣😂 (That is your CR-TOUCH, aka: ABL Probe)

[@Etheralysium]

@@3DRundown I'm going to keep this comment up here just in case anybody else's is dumb as I am lol

[@seb2ber]

tuto sympa, mais un seul hic tout de meme...il faut que la buse et le lit soit chaud pour le faire, donc je pense que c'est un peu erroné

[@3DRundown]

There is no need for the Nozzle, and the bed heat is more important on a glass bed

[@OskarLewczuk]

is spaghetti the effect of bad leveling?

[@3DRundown]

Could be many things, but it's "spaghetti" because the filament is just oozing out and being dragged around by the nozzle, not sticking to anything. If that happens due to the model separating from the bed, it can be a tramming thing, or a Z-Offset thing. Proper Z Offset is critical, even with a well "leveled" bed

[@OskarLewczuk]

@@3DRundown i managed to fix it somehow by leveling bed again but without auto leveling

[@philsanchez8443]

Ssu

[@Cj19944]

why did you not move the bed wheels in aux mode on the printer

[@3DRundown]

Elabortate? Not sure what you mean

[@Cj19944]

@@3DRundown there is to options on the leveling page click the auxiliary option makes it faster

[@3DRundown]

@@Cj19944 Oh, gotcha. I much prefer to do it manually. With 16 machines, all with various firmware, the manual method is quick and consistent across them all.

[@404-UsernameNotFound]

Well the z offset is maxed at -5.00 and the nozzle is still 5mm away from the bed. This thing is a POS

[@3DRundown]

Raise the bed with the knobs.

[@1964amazed]

Just bought a Plus as my first printer and having the same problem! Did you get it sorted?

[@Certrrr]

Sorry, don’t know how that comment got on this post was meant for another - removed it

[@3DRundown]

No worries. Whatever the debate was, I think I'm on your side of it. ✌🏼

[@leandroverse]

This is the only tutorial that worked for me after almost 15 hours trying to print something. Now my prints are sticking and the bed is leveled correctly. Thank you so much ❤

[@3DRundown]

I love hearing this. Awesome. Very welcome!

[@dubhead_dena]

Same!I already wanted to return it! Thank you @3DRundown

[@Certrrr]

Thanks!

[@3DRundown]

Very welcome, and thank YOU

[@pohra663]

What a lifesaver! Things went downhill after I changed the nozzle on my S1 Pro and I couldn't get things dialed in. I didn't realize until I watched this video that I had been doing things precisely backwards (setting the Z offset last...)😄

[@3DRundown]

Epic. Happy to help. In my experience, most people go about this wrong. I do my best to help right the ship!

[@Certrrr]

I'm a Newbie to 3 D Printing and just received My Ender 3 S1 Pro Saturday thought I did everything to level it and even watched several videos and each time I tried to print a sample print it was a mess squiggly wouldn't stick to the bed until I came across your video ! After your video the Print worked flawlessly. Now what is the best software to run, the Slicer that comes with it or is there something better available ?

[@3DRundown]

I would use CURA. It's the most commonly used, AND.... I teach it. :) ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura/ Check out the Pinned comment on that video, to see if maybe can help keep me going. :)

[@akaiphone]

why didnt you save the new mesh? does it do it on its own on this one?

[@3DRundown]

Yessir. But I do like to manually save just incase

[@DanielChristian19]

Watching your video has instantly made my 3D printing bed adjustment 10x easier. The part I was missing was to power it down and manually move the printer head around to level. Seriously, thank you, THANK YOU!! for making this video. I most definitely liked and subscribed.

[@3DRundown]

Fantastic. Love it. Consider a Super Thanks, using my affiliate links. or becoming a Member, to help keep me going. ⭐️

[@melikedrone8939]

hey i have a problem where the home z is too high on the thing and it wont let me go lower to the bed

[@melikedrone8939]

nvm i had removed the wire going to the nozzle and did not put it back

[@3DRundown]

👍🏼👍🏼

[@dubhead_dena]

Wow! It turns out it's that simple! And do you know why more and more people have problems with this? This is because more and more people ignore physics - i.e. if you lower one corner, the opposite one does not stand still, but rises! Hello - there is a tensioned spring there, which tends in what direction, sideways? Or maybe up?! TLDR You have to manually level the bed (as in the video, with the printer turned off) several or even a dozen times, not just once!!!

[@3DRundown]

Yessir! Sadly, not everyone is blessed with a brain that comprehends these principles, and, even less, make an actual effort to learn. I try to help....

[@dubhead_dena]

@@3DRundown You're doing a great job! Keep doing it! There is a saying that „a person learns all his life and still dies stupid” 🤷🏼‍♂️

[@3DRundown]

I feel stupid on a regular basis. Always learning

[@dubhead_dena]

@@3DRundown Hi again! I leveled the hotbed using your method - without any comparison to the basic method or the advice of others on KZbin. You rulezz! Additionally, I replaced the springs with orange ones from Creality and the knobs with aluminum ones (I also have silicone washers instead of springs - have you used them? Are they better than springs?). Very important: I additionally screwed clamping nuts onto the spring screws, because I discovered that these screws are not secured by anything at the factory and they start to twist very quickly, so from that moment on, leveling will never work again! After leveling, my hotbed is kind of concave in the middle and before auto-leveling, the nozzle distance in the center is greater than at the edges. Although I have the impression that after subsequent levels this disproportion decreases. And when I start printing, the nozzle literally moves against the hotbed and then during printing I have to increase the Z value in the settings. Then the prints come out very accurate. Do you have any advice for this?

[@3DRundown]

I don't like the Silicon, or the locking nuts. I want the ability to adjust at any time. They shouldn't move. I almost never touch my knobs. You'll get better with experience. If the knobs are moving, you may have your bed too high. Start your tramming with them a little lower, which will have the knobs tighter against the spring pressure. they will stay put. Z-OFFSET is only for the very 1st layer. After that 1st layer, the machine will move up the correct layer height. If it's hitting the bed, your Z-OFFSET is too low. Z-OFFSET will always be the last thing you do, after any change, no matter how small. You can use a SKIRT or the 1st layer of a print, to dial it in. If your afraid it may hit the bed, just start with the Z-Offset higher, and then move it down to a working height diring Skirt or 1st layer

[@hallorobin4710]

So, I don't have to have the filament pulled in beforehand.... Bought it for me and there are still a few questions 😀

[@3DRundown]

Nope. Can do it with no Filament at all

[@andywakeman3395]

Very good video. Not new to 3d printing, coming from an original Ender 3 I bought 4 years ago which blew it's mainboard 2 years ago (life not letting me sort the new board)

[@DLitt-p7l]

Very-Very well done. Explained very clearly, gave time to digest instructions, covered everything needed to be successful. Will look forward to more of these videos.

[@gcshawkey]

Only thing I would say is that this “test” print only used a small central area of the bed - when you come to do a model that takes up a fairly large surface area, you may find the bed is warped more than the abl can compensate. My S1pro has exactly this issue and it’s driving me nuts. There’s also videos and advice around that you need to modify the start g code in the slicer in order for the printer to actually use the mesh that was created🤔

[@keithhoughton4308]

When printing from a PC there's an M420 s1 command you need to add to the start g code under preferences-printers in the supplied Cura software. Credit Ricky Impey This tells the machine to use the bed mesh in the current print when using a USB cable. Not necessary if printing the file from an sd card in the slot I guess.

[@gcshawkey]

@@keithhoughton4308 Ah well that makes a difference then - there was no mention of not needing to do this if printing of a card ( which I always do ) on Ricky Impeys video.

[@keithhoughton4308]

@@gcshawkey It must remember it has just completed a self levelling otherwise what would be the point? Another good tip when tramming is to get rid of the small blob of solidified filament left at the tip by heating, removing the filament supply and then wipe the tip with a cloth. If, like me, you are on the spectrum, you can heat up the bed to take expansion into account. Happy tramming!

[@3DRundown]

You will want to add M420 S1, after G28. I teach this in my course (3DRundown.com), that this video is from. S1 beds are awful. I replaced my S1 and S1 Plus bed, with Glass

[@bruceroyle1117]

Thanks be g a total newbee (only received the printer today) Creality instuctions too vague and the video too fast. Yours was excellent, well presented and well instructed. My wee bunny is currently printing and so far looks very good. Keep up the good work. Regards from 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

[@3DRundown]

Welcome to the party. Stick around. This part will take you some time. Be patient. Move slowley. Learn how to feel it out... You'll get there. :)

[@whtewolf8041]

Good video, but is there a way to reset the Z so that it doesn't have to be at -3.00 (I believe that where yours was) or -2.65 like mine is. when it is set correctly shouldn't the height be 0.00 or am I way overthinking it?

[@3DRundown]

No. It will always be a Negative #, with 0 being the starting point. What you've really done, is moved your Bed, away from the Nozzle's 0, so, we are moving the hot end, toward the bed, down, from 0.

[@BigManJapan298]

Great video very helpful!!! But I have one question. After I do the auto bed leveling at the end it will lower the nozzle touching the build plate not to the same z offset I set it when actually leveling the bed. Is this normal?

[@3DRundown]

It will only return to your Z-Offset when: PRINTING Manually moved to "0"

[@Mike2010]

Thank you sooo much for this perfect video. Exactly what I needed to get my S3 plus printing. My head still hurts from beating it against the wall before watching this though. Awesome work!

[@3DRundown]

Welcome! Great to get you going. Consider this one as well: kzbin.info/www/bejne/poGWZ6Kwp8uFh5I

[@robbstark7473]

Do different but.. Wanted to see if you could help. I have the S1 and leveled it fine on the standard. I got going on the creality sonic pad and the cooling fan is hitting the bed before the nozzle in the corners... Any idea on what's going on? Thanks

[@3DRundown]

Yea, loosen up the Sprite Hotend, and seat it better. It may be off it's mount, or tilted forward a touch. Loosen up the sprites mount screws, and see if can adjust it back a touch. Do the same for the fan.

[@nielpapenfus4321]

Hi, I can’t get my printer to lower in the Center not even with a -5 offset. After level the rest I tried to print and it dug into the magnetic strip. Finally got it to print and it messed up my magnetic screen, full of groofs, get it filially to print and first could not get the print off had to scrape it off. Second one comes loos halfway through the print. Please advice?

[@3DRundown]

Dug in cause Z-Offset too low. Your knobs are too tight, making the bed too low, and flexing your hot plate

[@hayman1222]

Help me! I have a ender 3 s1 pro and im pretty sure im tramed right at least i think, but like half way through any print i lose all adhesion

[@3DRundown]

Textured PEO Sucks. Use Glass, or Smooth PEI. Also, be sure the bed is clean. 99% of adhesion problems, is your BED NOT CLEAN, or Z-OFFSET too high. Did you set your Z-OFFSET along with me here on this video? Also: kzbin.info/www/bejne/poGWZ6Kwp8uFh5I

[@keithsmedberg1417]

All good except!... My adjustments is stopping at 5.00 and I cannot get the nozzle closer.

[@3DRundown]

Your springs are too tight. Loosen them to raise the bed. Re-Tram (SMALL adjustments on the knobs) , then Z-Offset.

[@creativerajjo]

When I followed the same steps I found a Probing error. How to rectify this error? Please help

[@3DRundown]

Is the crtouch functional? Does it self test, when turned on? Is it blinking red

[@Leelockwood3dprints]

When you set the z offset at the beginning do you have the hotend and bed heated up please?

[@3DRundown]

I do z offset with only the bed hot.

[@davidaragon5464]

If I encounter error in z offset what I need to do put stop or move Z offset when is printing

[@3DRundown]

Only adjust Z Offset during 1st layer

[@iEatCookie]

I've been trying to get my entire bed level or atleast trying to get the abl to work so that there aren't inconsistencies. Have you tried printing a test with all four corners as well? Finding that I consistently get three corners to work perfectly but the center and back right corner are too far from the bed.

[@3DRundown]

ABL compensates for inconsistencies. Did you follow my Tramming Video? No FF, no skipping steps? I would do that. Also, why test all 4 corners? Does the model you are printing use the entire bed? All 4 corners? Print the model.... adjust for it. If have issues. Don't go nuts with crazy test patterns. I've never even used one myself.

[@3DRundown]

Also, have a peak at my Z Offset Video

[@charlie_brume]

Hi there, I recently purchased the S1 Plus printer and I'm encountering issues with bed leveling. It seems straightforward from the tutorial, but there's something that bothers me. When I manually adjust and then use the autolevel feature before starting the print, it seems like the printer doesn't quite follow the adjustments I've made. I have a feeling that the autoleveling feature might not be working properly because, during the initial layer printing, the Z-axis doesn't seem to move. That's the first concern. Additionally, I've faced instances where, even after completing all the steps, the nozzle got stuck to the bed. Furthermore, during the infill stage of the printing, there's a distinct noise as if the nozzle is colliding with the print. Do you have any tips considering these issues? Also, in the few prints I've done, the infill structure is very visible despite setting it with three perimeters.

[@nateyztv3163]

For some reason when i turn all of the wheels to the right and try to lower the z offset the gap is too big. I am new to this hobby and i dont know what to do

[@3DRundown]

Lower the Z Offset till the gap is NOT too big.

[@nateyztv3163]

The z offset doesn't go that far down but I think I fixed it anyway.

[@3DRundown]

It will go as low as you need it too. Could also raise the bed a little.

[@nateyztv3163]

@@3DRundown ok I have thanks for the help

[@nateyztv3163]

@@3DRundown But I keep occasionally hearing loud whiring/squeezing when the bed is moving when it's printing

[@CarlosFlores-wn1xt]

👏👏👏

[@denisdb725]

Hello, Thank you for this video, even there is a question I want to ask you. As I can see the coolin fan is in contact wit the bed ( and paper ) even before the nosle. Now what? ( the printer is brand new ). After done all as in the video at the moment I start the printer and start to print, the nosle ( extrudor ) goes like more than 5 mm up and start to print. Result mess. What can be wrong?

[@3DRundown]

just loosen the mount screws on the Sprite fan and adjust it upward. For the print being too high, set your Z-OFFSET. Follow me in this video on that

[@denisdb725]

@@3DRundown Hello, Thank you the Z-offset was changed and now it is ok. About the fan, as the holes are round and only a very bit larger as the screw it is not possible to move the fan upwards a bit.

[@3DRundown]

Loosen the entire sprite, and re-seat it.

[@lucentv]

So I hit an odd situation; my back wheels will tighten the paper just fine, but my front wheels are pracaly back to free spinning before i can get any feel between the nozzle and paper. Do I have a bent plate or something? Do I need to exchange for another printer?

[@3DRundown]

Put your front side where you want it, bring the back side down to match. Bring your Z-Offset to match. Tram. Fine tune your Z Offset

[@lucentv]

@@3DRundown Thanks for replying. I finally did get all four corners even, but now the center point doesn't have any grip on the paper. I tried a test print anyway and got no layer adhesion. I really am thinking I got a defective print plate.

[@3DRundown]

Did you run an ABL last? It will compensate for that.

[@420kayoe420]

thank you!!!! sir u solved my problem!!!!!! so many videos out there that dont show ur steps!!!!!!!! ty ty ty ty ty👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@3DRundown]

I got you! Consider checking out the "Pinned Comment" on this video, to help keep this channel going. :)

[@JasonWestphal]

Helped me set this up perfectly in time for Christmas morning

[@donaldcarter1206]

Great video. My z was way off and there wasnt enough room to dial it in.

[@pittmanx6]

Should I not trust the tramming wizard on the professional firmware?

[@3DRundown]

Unless something has changes, the pro and plus don't have the wizard. But even still, I prefer to feel it out myself, but you can totally use it. It can be a little slow, especially to use it for an initial setup. It's faster to use it for an adjustment after. But, mainly, I try to teach methods anyone cam use.

[@pittmanx6]

@@3DRundown I'm using the pro firmware by mriscoc on my standard S1 Thanks for your videos. I think a glass bed is going to be needed to fix my issues. Still having problems after tramming, creating a 9x9 mesh and setting z-offset

[@3DRundown]

MRISCOC makes great firmware. The S1 has some weird ABL issues. My S1+ doesn't have any problems at all, but my S1, is a pain to get a working mesh. Glass is def best, IMO.

[@armandomarrero9097]

Very good video. Been printing on a bed with out springs so this was helpful on my new S1 Pro

[@mortenkallesen923]

Got one of these arriving within one week. Thanks for putting this up.

[@savvastaliadoros4428]

Thank you. Excellent video, excellent explanation, easy to follow.

[@rafaelcarette213]

Thank you for this video ! It helped me A LOT !

[@Mtolbert11]

I was having issues with leveling my Ender 3 S1 Pro and failing to print correctly. Came across this video and figured what the heck not sure it will work but I'll look anyway. You are FANTASTIC! I followed along and did these steps and I'm using a Sonic Pad and was still able to generate a great print that sticks well. Hey this guy knows what he's talking about and fixed my issue. Thanks again.

[@3DRundown]

Very welcome! Love to hear this. Consider a "Super Thanks" to help keep this channel going. :)

[@trsfc1595]

Very informative Thank You

[@EliteBravoSquad]

All the videos I’ve seen claim you have to preheat the bed before you do the level and do it with the printer powered on, I’ve done it numerous times and still can’t get my printer to consistently print. Going to try this hopefully it will work 🙏

[@3DRundown]

My way works. 👍🏼

[@TopFurret]

I've got an Ender 3 S1 and every time I do this, I get the corners nice and right, but the middle always is lower than the corners. I don't understand what's happening. Is my printer defective or am I doing this wrong?

[@3DRundown]

Your ABL mesh should handle that, but, some peeps have had issues with S1 beds. Consider swapping to glass. My S1 Bed sucked. I did glass and never looked back

[@Dannos3d]

That’s a great guide and thanks. For some reason if I take that mag plate off to remove a print my bed level seems to change and I need to fix it again. I will try this method and see if it changes anything. I just need to work out how to fix the terrible inconsistency with the vertical prints and layer lines I get

[@3DRundown]

I never remove the plate. Let it cool and can usually work the model off easily. Even on adult masks. But, if have to pull or push on the model, it's can certainly ruin things, as even a 0.02mm changes can effect stuff. Check out my tuning video for your other stuff

[@jimrozzelle8755]

Ok Ive done this a few times and I check the zoffset at the center and its always Off. Im checking after I level up the 4 corners. Man thanks so much for the quick reply and videos playing with them now. Thanks again

[@3DRundown]

Set the Z Offset LAST.

[@3DRundown]

Do this, to practice: How to adjust your Z Offset on a 3D Printer. kzbin.info/www/bejne/rJa9c2dnarZ7g5I

[@jimrozzelle8755]

@@3DRundown Hey Man thanks so much for the quick replay and videos your AWSOME.

[@3DRundown]

Good to have you. You'll develop methods and feelings, for this, and over time, it will become easier for you. Stay patient. It's part of the game, especiialy with these older machines.

[@jimrozzelle8755]

Well Ive been leveling my bed the same way for months and all of a sudden I cant get it right to save my life. They are fairly new printers Ender 3 s1 pluses. The only thing I havent tried is your recomended test print for z.

[@alank64]

Hey, great instructions, well done, just a question, would you not have to set you Z-offset again after leveling or after the mesh is done?

[@3DRundown]

Yes. Z-Offset is always your final move

[@samanthahuggins9818]

You the real MVP, @GreggAdventure - after two other videos things weren't panning out. This really did the trick!

[@3DRundown]

Thanks so much! Makes my day.

[@loumos8364]

My printer wont go far enough down to properly level. On the main screen i can but not on leveling screen.

[@loumos8364]

I think my zprobe is bad. I think it touches way to early.

[@loumos8364]

So i can almost get past this if i tightwn my nobs down a bunch then lossen them after it homes. The issue is its gonna reset the z home higher after so im at a complete loss. I think i may just have to buy a new printer. Even though this one is out of box.

[@loumos8364]

Ok i just spoke to my brother he mentioned you have to press the 1 location the. Level from there.

[@3DRundown]

No such thing as too early. Too LATE would be the problem.

[@3DRundown]

When you press home, it DOES NOT GO TO THE Z-OFFSET, it will park about 5-10mm off the bed. It will go to the Z-OFFSET, when you start a print, or, manually move back to 0.

[@AlexTackett1998]

can't believe it took this video for me to realize that i forgot to tighten down the bed,and was wondering why it i couldn't level the bed properly

[@3DRundown]

PSH, we all done stuff like this! Glad I Could get you there. "SUPER THANKS?" :P

[@Dalinzir]

Watching this hoping it'll help me once I get home. My nozzle has been scratching the bed recently 😭😭

[@3DRundown]

It's your Z-Offset. Focus on that

[@ianthomson5255]

I am on -5 already and no where near the paper

[@3DRundown]

raise the bed by loosening the Knobs

[@ianthomson5255]

@3D Rundown i maxed out on the turning wheels.. am i supposed to press the one before i adjust the z? Then make adjustments to the wheels? I have now completely scratched up my plate :( i have ordered and received a second, however i dont want to mess this one up :( please help

[@1964amazed]

Same problem here....

[@joecnc3341]

Nice Video! Thank You!

[@rachelbrown717]

Okay so my purge line is squiggly. Why. I have re leved this thing twice now haaalppp

[@3DRundown]

Z-Offset too high.

[@BernieClark2]

Brilliant video… clear, well explained instructions….. thank you….

[@3DRundown]

Very welcome. Thanks for being here

[@chriskalandadse9293]

Yes! This was such a game changer! I know you're probably saying the same things as the other ump-teen tutorials/troubleshoots I watched but you just made so much more sense. Thank you thank you thank you!

[@3DRundown]

I think my methods are better than the other ump-teen nerds. 🤜🏼🤛🏼

[@RatchetFWD]

1 year ender user and this is a good starter video for anyone. Should add to make sure your x gantry ain’t sagging before doing this. Also righty raise , lefty lower . The bed.

[@3DRundown]

Thanks much! Sagging Gantry is not a typical problem, but, it is a problem that certainly CAN exist. I cover that in another video, in the Troubleshooting play list. That said, it's the opposite. RIGHTY LOWER, LEFTY RAISE. Tighten the Knob, to lower the bed. Loosen the Knob, to RAISE the bed.

[@the_edge_of_time]

I wish I saw this three months ago. Where did you get the red leveling wheels?

[@3DRundown]

They come stock, on the S1 Plus. Here they are: amzn.to/3LPCDHz

[@fullmentalalchemist3922]

I have always done this with the bed preheated. Is this not necessary?

[@3DRundown]

Warm is ideal, but more so with Glass, because of it's expansion and contraction.

[@tomirish3220]

Thank you very much for this. I really appreciate the easy to follow pace of your presentation. It was also well organized. Like many of the other comments, this is the best I’ve seen. Certainly better than anything provided by Creality. I’m anxious to see more of your work.

[@3DRundown]

Thanks so much. There is ALLOT to see here! I teach as if I'm teaching myself.... I need to be talked to, as if I'm 5. 😂🤣 Welcome. :)

[@3DRundown]

Have I helped you? Help ME continue this channel with some support: TIP: Click the "💗THANKS" button Become a KZbin Member, by clicking "JOIN" Support my Patreon: patreon.com/3drundown Use my Affiliate Links when Shopping: Amazon Link: amzn.to/2miGQq9 Creality: shrsl.com/424l2 Bambu Lab: shrsl.com/46lky Sunlu: sovol3d.com?sca_ref=2756755.r8WNQiJdNf Sovol: www.sunlu.com?sca_ref=4022320.F0sV6y4ht9 Support me via my Course: 3DRUNDOWN.COM

[@cirok22]

best video explaining how to level the bed of this printer, thank you, keep the good work

[@3DRundown]

Thanks so much! I'm considering adding more. Learn with me on UDEMY: "3D RUNDOWN" 3DRUNDOWN.COM