How to Load and Unload 3D Printer Filament (and prevent tangles!)

[@Ididathing]

I like tangles. It makes me feel useful

[@LegoMyachi]

I love you

[@hugeballs]

hi guy that made a spoon with a spoon

[@HavanaSyndrome69]

ok

[@imnotevensure5955]

Walter

[@Daosx89]

Man I just started watching your channel and I can't get enough of it!!! Much love from Canada!!

[@TheEvilVargon]

Best advice for avoiding kinds was from Tom: Your filament end should only ever be in 3 places: In your hand, in your printer, or tucked in your spool.

[@digisam6160]

All your videos are so helpful and informative, and you present them in a really accessible, entertaining and friendly way. Plus if you don't watch them in order, you get a wildly different hairstyle with each video :) Thanks, here's to your first million subscribers.

[@MakersMuse]

Thanks! I like to mix it up :)

[@kspokermike1629]

Thanks for doing a beginners video on how to unload/load filament. I had no idea that a little bit of filament was extruded before pulling. This all seems very basic to some people, but very worthwhile knowledge to have for newbies. Thanks Angus. Please do more basic videos like this one again in the future.

[@iandawkins2182]

A quick tip I have been using for some time is store your filament in the bags sold for storing clothes or for traveling.They have a zip seal and a one way valve that you attach to a vacuum cleaner to suck the air out. Reasonably cheap and fully reusable. Can add some desiccant / silica gel if required.

[@zekstra78]

The ONLY video with USEFUL and good detailed explanation how to correctly remove filament. THANKS !!

[@WyvernDotRed]

This is a improvement over my self-taught ways: -Jerk the filament out so the wedge is still soft when I get it out. -Cut it with the flat side of my flush-cutters towards the end, for a sort of sharp edge. -When it unwinds, rewind it form the side, while holding the end. -When it is tangled, hold the end and unwind the spool, and push a huge coil, with the knot in it over the edge, and rewind while moving the knot to the end. -Manually rewinding. Thanks for the tips! They will definitely make my life easier.

[@chaos.corner]

It should be noted that as the filament is driven, the hobbed gear or bolt will put small notches in the filament which act as stress points and make it more prone to snapping (this can actually be handy when you want to break the blobby end off). This may be what you are seeing.

[@martinpirringer8055]

I got one thing to add to filament runout. Most of the time it happens during a print and the print head moves up a bit when the runout sensor triggers. If you remove the rest as described and insert the new and do a little purge it is wise to cover the print with a piece of paper or something otherwise you get a blob of filament on the print and if its something that has great layer adhesion like PETG then that blob might (will) really attache to your print and then you either do some fancy knife work to remove and hope you don't dislodge the print from the build plate or the nozzle will get stuck on it the next time around and you miss some steps. Same holds true if you just change filament on purpose like stop at layer 40 and go from black to white.

[@andreaskuglgruber4254]

Thanks a lot! That "fixed" my problem, so I spent you a coffee (or whatever you drink). As a noob, I tried many things, to find out in this video, that I am the problem.

[@Lensfort]

Angus, the reason I have found why PLA gets brittle within the PTFE tube has nothing to do with the tube, but more so that the filament has been past the extruder and it has been indented with tooth marks, by the gears. Those tooth marks tend to somehow, dry out or air out the PLA within, making it brittle. Or somehow let moisture in.... Either way, the tooth mark indentations are the reason.

[@MakersMuse]

It happens above the extruder with direct drive machines too, but not all PLA's in my experience. I feel that it has to be an internal stresses thing, but the tooth marks would certainly not help in the case of bowdens.

[@fred-9929]

@@MakersMuse, I also noticed that parts printed with Bowden are more brittle, and comes out more mat. That's why I abandoned Bowden, and came back to direct drive. I think this is caused by the time the PLA spends in the tube after being laminated, instead of being melted shortly after. The stress released changes the internal structure or something like that... On the other hand, if the PLA comes brittle before the extruder, this is more a moisture issue... I never had this problem, but I don't have more that 60%RH in my house.

[@partsdave8943]

@@MakersMuse I too have had PLA break when sitting in an unused printer. Usually it's a roll that is 6 months or more old. I live in the Southern part of the US, and I usually have less than 50% RH in my house. Most of the winter months, aka now, I'm in the 30% - 40% range, and it still happens to me, on both my MK3 and Ender 3. And also on my Monoprice Mini V2.

[@U.P_SCUBA]

Could it be the stress of being wound one way then being held straight (or at least in a different direction) in the PTFE?

[@truantray]

PLA formulas can have volatile plasticizers. That's why PLA gets brittle over time, even in the dark. The heat around the extruder just accelerates this. Some people suggest it is light exposure, but that's nonsense.

[@SandyCrack69]

I remember reading somewhere that with Taulman filaments ( more exotic materials ) that come with plastic netting that resembles the bags oranges come in, its best to leave that netting on the spool, even whilst printing, to keep the spool tangle free.

[@oldsalty3d122]

Funny you should come out with this video today. Just this morning I was loading up some empty spools with the samples I got in my Makerbox, and I had used the winding technique you that you showed. And I love the tip you gave at the end of the video, you have inspired me to try and come up with some way of using a drill to load my blank spools when I get the samples, hmmm. 🤔

[@dixon1e]

This is exactly what was needed to help understand tangles and how to solve the problem. Thank you!

[@Culturedropout]

I've been printing with my homemade Rostok delta for a bit now, and had never seen the push-then-pull trick for unloading the filament. And I must admit that I've had some mysterious jams when changing filament, so I'll have to start trying it this way. A tip in return - I was forever having the filament refuse to go through the extruder into the tube, and it was extremely frustrating, especially since it's located in a hard-to-reach place. I decided to figure out what was going on the other day, and found that, at least on the extruder I got from Amazon as a Creality replacement, the fitting that connects the tubing to the extruder was completely flat on the end, with a considerably smaller inside diameter hole than the one in the extruder frame, so the filament was hitting the resulting lip and stopping. I took the fitting out and drilled the threaded end with a drill bit slightly smaller than the outside of the threaded portion, but only until the tip of the bit was fully inside the end of the fitting. This left a nice tapered opening from the extruder into the fitting, and it's smooth as silk to load new filament now.

[@SMArtMetalArt]

I‘m loving your channel! I know there are several videos about lots of calibration aspects but I think there is no one like „all in one how to“ for full calibration scenarios like „new printer“, „new parts like nozzle, print head or bed, extruder“ or „new fillament“ step by step collection guide including models, examples (pass and fails), and so on... I would appreciate that kind of video or series of videos very much

[@n8bif828]

Thanks for the tips. I am a good example of how not to pull the old filament. I was doing just what you said not to do and had the plug-before-the-nozzle problem you mentioned. Now I know better. BTW, you're a great youtube presenter. Fantastic delivery style.

[@steelwitness]

i do a lot of work with physics and an interesting fact a lot of people dont know is that strings/flexible cables naturally knot themselves when agitated. an easy example most people know is that if you put your ear buds in your pocket and walk around a while they'll be all knotted when they come out. you can recreate this before your eyes by putting the ear buds between your hands and rubs your hands together. filament is just like this and it is just as easily agitated.

[@SidneyCritic]

Mine cracks in mid-air between the spool and the extruder where it essentially straight, and I think it's because the spool diameter is so small. It looks like it gets rolled on warm and tight, and gets a set curvature that compresses one side of the filament. Then when the filament straightens that compressed side stretches making it more prone to cracks because the filament is now cold and not flexible.

[@g.j.647]

I'm sure, that this is the correct explanation of the "FILAMENT SELF DISTRUCT OVER NIGHT" phenomenon.

[@SidneyCritic]

I was wrong, the filament hardens with exposure. I just did a large print and the filament on the inside of the roll is soft and pliable, unlike the exposed filament that hardens.

[@edtyson]

Just one more tip: store spools vertically, not on their side. If the end comes loose, the rings are less likely to fall over each other, thus creating the knot.

[@RansomMakes]

Excellent video about filament management and dealing with those pesky tangles. Thumbs up for the shirt alone! Nice work Angus, thanks for sharing.

[@phenix_labs]

The filament snaps after being in the tube because the extruder gears leave a mark on the filament that makes it easier to Crack

[@gth042]

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stress_concentration

[@Shinfekta]

It also often snaps outside of the tube in my case. Mostly in between the extruder gear and the spool.

[@swiftrick15]

I found one roll of PLA I had was brittle every 20cm or so and would snap so easily like you showed. Throughout the entire roll. I returned it. Changed brand so far no problems again.

[@joewell6435]

I've done that exact thing to wind fillement onto another spool, you have to be careful about the speed though, it can get really messy real quick if you lose control.

[@tylertibbs158]

Thanks you, thank you, thank you. This was the only filament change solution for my R3D mini, it does not have a de-tension button so extrude and then rectract worked perfectly. Quality explanation

[@CmndaPnda]

Thanks Angus! I’m off to change my pla to abs now!

[@jostsalathe]

Hey Angus, you mentioned PLA sometimes becoming brittle when stored inside a bowden tube feed between the spool and the hotend. Fascinatingly I experienced pretty much the same effect altough I run a direct extruder setup with no bowden tube between the extruder and the spool. I figuered that the filament probably is under a constant stress when sitting there for weeks with a significantly larger radius than it has right on the spool. It would then develop small fractures under that stress that become weak spots when later bending that part of the filament and it cracks there. While on the spool in otherwise the same conditions, the filament is not noticably harmed by open storage. So I guess that, ultimately, the tension inside the filament causes the brittleness which would also apply to filament resting inside a bowden tube which forces it into an "uncomfortable" bend radius. Best regards and keep your high quality content coming! :thumbsup:

[@RobbyNowell]

Completely agree! Stress cracks form in PLA due to forcing the filament to a drastically different bend radius than initial winding and leaving it in this position for an extended time. Pure PLA is the worst. Impact modified PLA is much better. I never see it with other filaments. Also, I do not use the filament detention holes in spools of PLA. It snaps for the same reason. I use tape to hold the end to the spool edge and never have issues storing 1.75mm filament. 3mm PLA is another story...

[@Review3d]

Great video, info and tips Angus. It's upsetting to see people continually blaming the manufacturer for tangled filament. Especially when they leave negative reviews that can mislead and misinform someone new to 3D printing. Hopefully your video will help with that.

[@cecilcasey6440]

One of the best basic videos in a long time.

[@sgtcote1]

Thanks for these great tips. I'm new to 3D Printing and I had this happen already on my sample spool.

[@FranNyan]

I tend to find with on-spool tangles that pushing the filament in to loosen some of the tension makes it far easier to slip the knot off the spool without pushing it down farther in. Since it's just a light letting of the tension, it doesn't wonk up the entire roll and it's much faster to rewind (and also limits the chance of the pushed down knot kinking the filament.)

[@MrGerhardGrobler]

Nice. Catching up on your videos, one at a time. In the year I have been printing, I only had 1 knot. It was a loose wound roll. The tip at the end is a way to move filament from a clunky roll. I have spools (The loose wound) that are way different sized to the spool holders that come with the printers. So the drill is a way to transfere the filament to a standard size spool. Thanks.

[@MrKuztumpainterz]

Great video thanks for sharing.

[@grhmhome]

My cat tangled up my filament and this video helped me fix it. Thank you.

[@dracosummoner]

Thank you so much for this. I got a new 3D printer (an Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro) the other evening and had a wonderful time printing with the tiny loop of PLA provided. I then used most of that and switched over to the Elegoo roll I'd also ordered. It's been an extreme hassle of trying to figure out: Do I thread through the holes? One hole? Both holes? Neither (as I've seen some people do), since the PLA being pulled through the holes seems to make my filament-breakage sensor go click-click-click like it's trying to move with a neck brace? The roll seems to barely be holding itself together, so the tip about tension seems extremely useful and I'll try to get that wound back up as soon as possible.

[@andreaskuglgruber4254]

Danke!

[@michaelgoodfellow4992]

As it's printing, you come back to check and see it tangled (but still printing, since it's dragging the tangle). Now show us how to untangle it without stopping the print! I did that yesterday, and I was amazed it worked. Just find the coils like you did, drop them all off the roll (while printing), and then laboriously turn the spool again and again until it all feeds straight again.

[@Botwire]

Good advice for hot swapping filaments. Tangled rolls I would think most users should instinctively know how to avoid and correct, however, I guess there are some that may not know proper use and handeling.

[@Jalechah]

Thanks for this video. Such simple practices but easy to get caught out if not followed. Pulling some filament out caused a nasty blockage and now thanks to this video shouldn't have that problem anymore

[@futureonjk]

It's call straw moisture trap, either caused by wet filament beforehand or the high amount of moisture in the air. Plus the heat creep can slow cure the filament with moisture.

[@artxgx9245]

I'm here because I made all these mistakes and came here to learn how to fix it 👀

[@tin2001]

12:00 - same applies to cables. Cables should never be rolled onto something while holding the loose end tightly... That's what causes the "wiggly" look you see on things like barrel vacuums (without self-retracting leads) and extension cords used by tradies.

[@ipoddrake]

wouldnt you be able to make a filament sensor that detects jammed filament by using a gear setup similar to direct drive extruders, but have a gear right at the feeder that is hooked up to a movement sensor of sorts? like as the direct drive is pulling the filament in that will turn the sensor gear. if that sensor gear ever stops when its supposed to be moving then there is likely a jam or a lack of filament. in this way it would work as both a filament sensor and a jam detector. could be wrong though i only just thought of this like 2 min into this video so i decided to mention it

[@ipoddrake]

now that i think of it you wouldnt even need to do much extra probs, just attach a sensor the the idler gear on the other side of the extruder motor since that doesnt move unless there id filament moving

[@DataCab1e]

So the trick to re-winding a spool is: Hold on loosely, but don't let go. If you cling too tightly, you're gonna lose control.

[@ottersdangerden]

I see what you did there!

[@testfag]

38 special i knew i recognized that text ;)

[@DataCab1e]

Meant to be seen it was.

[@jhsevs]

What I did is I 3d printed a spool holder clamp and used my cordless drill

[@brettd5884]

The other tip is to rewind filament back onto the spool in the same direction as the filament wants to twist. If the filament hanging in the air wants to twist as you wind it, flip the spool in your hand so you're winding from the other direction, and continue winding.

[@jeremyrobinson1611]

Thanks for making all these useful newbie videos

[@phmaximus]

why keep tension on the spool???? wount any tension me lost the second it retracts??? ive noticed some small parts really make the spool rock back and forth

[@haloz281]

"Wount"... I like that word... anyways, it's not so much the tension, as it is preventing the end from going underneath the windings... you hold it tight-ish, so it doesn't go over the edge of the spool and under the rest of the wire... err. filament.

[@phmaximus]

@@haloz281 *faceplant, thats a spelling mistake?? i thought that was OBVIOUS??? and sorry buddy you are completely missing the point big time. U can add all the tension u want. but unless u have something to hold it while printing its a complete waist of time... like i mentioned, any tension will be lost with the first retraction and if you are printing small part it retracts soo much that it will rock the filament spool.... PS... I dont proof read quick comments, expect mistakes

[@haloz281]

@@phmaximus That's why I said "not so much the tension"... it has nothing to do with tension, just controlling the end of the filament so it can't knot. I barely remember making this comment, but I'm sure I meant before printing was even attempted. And no, I honestly like the word wount.

[@phmaximus]

@@haloz281 ahh ok cool man, there may be a mistake??? my comment was in response to this video and the statement about keeping tension on it. in not really talking about controlling the end.

[@bkkorner]

You're a lifesaver!😇

[@l3d-3dmaker58]

when i used marlin I had a special routine that was extremely fast, it purged 5-10mm or so and pulled back the 540mm of length at 120mm/s with a relatively low acceleration, so it spooled up to speed causing no filament grinding, it was pretty cool and very fast, but the quickest way is still to do it manually, although if you have some printers running 24/7 constantly doing that is a pain, so I get why there's the routine, and optimising it is very important

[@gusmartin6053]

I have noticed PLA cracking inside the PTFE tube as well. Especially 3mm diameter filament. If you look closely on the inside of the natural curve of the filament, you will notice little cracks. This is caused (I think) by the filament being held relatively straight inside the tube, forming stress cracks on the inside curve where the plastic is being stretched. This is especially bad with old filament that has formed to the tight curve of the spool.

[@ssnydess6787]

Thanks Angus from another newbie! I was doing the unloading all wrong!

[@GaboJung77]

This is the most amazing tutorial ever about filament management, thank you so much

[@rgmtb]

Really glad I stayed till the end! Great tips 👍

[@pure6450]

I've been 3D printing for over 3 years and yet I still watched this... why?

[@TheFotoGuys]

Thanks, you helped me a lot. This is my first 3D printer that I am ¨playing¨ with, but I should never have used the filament that came with it (BIQU B1), since it snapped by itself after a few hours of printing. It was within the filament sensor, and I did not know what to do. Got it out thanks to you :D

[@licensetodrive9930]

Good video, almost a year with my 3D printer and not had a tangle yet, I've been very careful about handling the reels. Could you do a video on sharing your 3D designs online? The basic details of making sure your object can actually print (evident by adding a picture of a print), the optimal print settings etc. I've not had any issues but it would be great to have more people's creations 'out there' in useable / editable form.

[@ZebraandDonkey]

Nice trick at the end. I will definitely use that.

[@pauly7218]

Hi Angus. I'm new to 3d printing and looking for a bigger printer than my Monoprice Select Mini. The Ender 3 at sub $200 seemed like just the thing, but you don't seem to keen on it.ould you let me know if that observation is true, and what printer you would recommend in that class? Thanks - you have taught me a ton...

[@lordsquiggles]

PLA gets brittle inside the bowden tube because the extruder gear cuts into the filament thus it can break easily at every cut line.

[@terryrhuebottom]

I frequently have mine snap in a similar way with PLA but I do not have any Bowden style setups. I've actually been between prints messing with Cura and out of nowhere, the PLA filament snaps about a half inch from where the filament enters the feed mechanism.

[@fhuber7507]

I'm tempted to borrow a trick from fishing... and re-spool the filament to the same kind of spool. I've bought several spools from inland. (OK filament, might be the cheapest you can get) and thus I have the identical spools. Keep one variable constant. Then I'll make a ball bearing spool holder to minimize the spool resistance to feeding.

[@ailaG]

3:40 Can you elaborate on why you don't push it too much? I push it fully because I don't want to move the extruder motor...

[@edtyson]

Thank you so much for creating this video Angus! We get customers from time to time convinced we've put the knot in and it's hard to explain how it actually happened.

[@TheTommysbeast]

Final tip was very helpful, thank you Angus.

[@louis-ericsimard7659]

Would you have a good solution to fuse together filament remains ? I'd like to be able to merge the last 80-100g of a spool to a fresh one before going to bed for example rather than wait until it is empties to feed a new reel.

[@JAYTEEAU]

Thanks Angus. The cordless drill trick was awesome. Cheers, JAYTEE

[@marccendros3605]

When most of the filament has been used up, the filament is very curly due to the reduced radius, and I find it extremely hard to load in my direct extruder (Anet A8). I suppose I'm not the only one with this issue, but I have yet to find a video or article with tips for loading filament from these partially spent spools. Also, the filament gets brittle as you describe, so it's not related to the bowden system. I suppose it has to do with environmental exposure.

[@hoverbotfpv1425]

I was printing a lithoplane (printer settings count) and my Anycubic X detected a flow issue and paused, I had no real damage to print after cleaning nozzle and restarting. Cheaper filament can have built in tangles too. Filament near hot end may become brittle from heat treating.

[@AdityaMehendale]

Some (not all) PLAs have volatile plasticizers. If they stay in an open environment (I suppose the PTFE of the Bowden tube is permeable o the volatiles) then the PLA-filament becomes brittle, and snaps.

[@billbyrd9845]

While in the vacuum sealed bag, the desiccant inside the hub of the spool is sealed against any water vapor that might otherwise exit the filament. Yes? No?

[@Shinfekta]

Do you have any updates on why sometimes the pla string that is mounted to the printer starts randomly snapping? I've encountered this issues and this is annoying since you always have to refill the filament.

[@SianaGearz]

PTFE is pretty translucent. Alex Kenis ran a bunch of experiments to see why his PLA that was left on the printer was getting brittle, and the deciding influence turned out to be UV light.

[@MakersMuse]

Maybe, but this occurs in my garage as well with no windows and no UV source. Mystery!

[@SianaGearz]

@@MakersMuse Interesting. Makes me wonder whether the typical Chinese PTFE releases any fluorine, and halogens are pretty damn reactive in general, that's how fire retardants work, they release a halogen that subtitutes hydrogen bonds that hold polymer chains together. And whether same happens in Capricorn tube.

[@l3d-3dmaker58]

I've noticed the end of the filament on my Bowden a8 does get brittle, I think it's more about the heat from the hotend creeping up a bit and changing the structure or something like that, could be interesting to investigate

[@kjell-olovhogdahl6557]

Tip: Do you have experience in 3D printing "Compliant Mechanisms"? I recently learned about this field of research and thought you to be the KZbin-channel to dive into the possibilities of these designs. E.g., to 3D print switches, hinges etc. in brittle PLA but still asl a single homogeneous part! Kindly, if you have not already done so, look into the work of Howell, Larry L e.g., his book "Compliant Mechanisms" 2001 (ISBN: 9780471384786)? Would be very excited to see a video from you on this topic and valuable mechanisms we can print :) Keep up the good work you do! Most appreciated!

[@alexnowosielski43]

Kjell-Olov Högdahl veritasium??

[@kjell-olovhogdahl6557]

@@alexnowosielski43 , Yes! I watched "Why Machines That Bend Are Better" (kzbin.info/www/bejne/b2jXaIuglM51rJI) on Veritasium channel and wanted to research further!

[@ChinaAl]

HA! I learned something. I always learn something from your videos. That's why I subscribed. That unloading sequence. Mt Tevo Tornado doesn't have a load/unload sequence that I know of but....I can extrude + and -. Normally I unload the filament but yes, heating the nozzle (200/210) then pulling it out. Never thought to push it in some. (manually) Anyway when I load the new filament I'll then extrude 50-100mm to flush the old color out. Thanks for your videos

[@yezhang2947]

Very nice explained! Thanks!

[@ElmerFuddGun]

Wow I don't like how close that filament feeds in next to the lead screw and grease. Just waiting to get a bit of grease on it without noticing and then into the feed path. I would do something to increase the separation there.

[@mattlogue1300]

I like keeping a binder clip on frame for threading filament... It will catch it as you pull back

[@wpherigo1]

Great advice. Very helpful. Thanks. Question: would using the spool holder like you did at the the end help with winding the filament back onto the spool?

[@Duron1233]

Hello, could you tell me what kind of grease/oil you use on the spindle of the printer that is shown? Big Thanks!

[@hanavesela5884]

Hi I have Two trees bluer printer and the filament broke right at the end of the tube and it’s stuck inside. I tried to let it print out the leftover in the tube but it won’t move and it’s stuck about 3 mm inside the tube right at the extruder side. How do I get this out please?

[@politicamenteincorrecto3425]

What do you do if the filament goes inside the pipe between the extruder and the hotend? I mean, in a way you won't have a tip to pull. How do you pull it out?

[@MrCrazyinventor]

I suppose that PLA gets a lot of microcracks after it passes the feeding mechanism so it tends to shatter. I had a bit same issue with clear PC.

[@ZeeLobby]

So the auto unload on my lashforge creator pro clone left some PETG in the print head (which of course is impossible to melt without blowtorch). I've seen people recommend a cold pull. What's your feeling on this?

[@tobymurday5439]

4:51 it's X3D Pro branded filament for anyone interested. (they're an Australian company)

[@beans-vg9ni]

Angus you best 3d printing channel out there, love your content, keep it up P.s. I'm on the other side of the world to you (England)

[@rickypacheco]

Wow lots of discussion regarding snapping filament. I have a direct drive and a Bowden tube system and they both get brittle. So that eliminates the gear tooth theory. Personally, I think it’s heat creep from the hot end. It “bakes” the filament. It’s more pronounced in the Bowden tube because heat travels through the tube more effectively.

[@monkeyboy8me]

Can you re use the filament if you do choose to cut the tangle?

[@ensoniq2k]

Nice drill spool winding. With a 4000 rpm drill this must be fun. I should try it.

[@SkyFaber]

For what it's worth. The brittleness is because it is absorbing moisture. It's likely that the filament is getting wet in areas of the tube where tiny defects are allowing air exchange with the outside.

[@roaldvegt9617]

I have a problem some times with my ultimaker 3 where the feeder grinds away the filament and starts to print in the air even when I rewind the spool and I have the tension of the feeder in the milde (if you are familiar with a ultimaker feeder) any tips?

[@dudgeonsdungeon353]

I had my 3d printer in my utility room (with washer and dryer. I found that the filament went brittle very quickly in there. Not sure if it was the heat or humidity, but regardless, since I moved it into the workshop the filament is much less brittle

[@cdorberlee]

how to extrude a little bit? do i need to press any button before I push the filament inside and out again?

[@3dprintwiz378]

Hi I know this is a bit off topic, but I wanted to ask what that red grease you use for the z axis rod? Thank you.

[@SandraOrtmann1976]

Can you say that more expensive filament spools have lesser knots? Or does the price have nothing to do with knotting and tangling tendency?

[@MakersMuse]

I've not come across knotted filament for years, even cheap filament should be fine!

[@MisterElephants]

G'day Angus, I've bought 3 rolls of filament from the same supplier and 2 of them arrived tangled. Is this regarded as bad filament or should I expect that all suppliers will have the same issues?

[@TangoDeltaDelta]

I don't see very many videos on buying the new "spool-less" filaments and using a "master spool" yet.

[@drkline69]

I liked the idea of using the drill to transfer filament between spools. I thought that you were going to whip out some fancy 3d-printed part to hook the drill up to. Was disappointed that it was just a piece of foam. LOL

[@JoelWilhiteKD6W]

@Tim_lennard (below) made a very good observation which brings up a good point about the gear marks making marks on the PLA. I read the other comments about "light" making it brittle but I too am with you, Angus. I'm not sure these truly explain why it snaps. Disclaimer, I'm not a material scientist. I too have had the same experience with brittle PLA and have had the filament snap while coming off the reel, before going into the feed system! In that case, it was "starter spool" from the printer manufacturer when it was delivered. Plain white PLA in a vacuum sealed bag with a descant, After making a number of prints the majority of this reel was exhausted and just as I was changing reels after unloading, it snapped, almost exactly as it did in this video. My observations were, the point where it broke had not been into the feed yet, the spool was near the end down towards the smallest diameter and the spool had been out for some time (a couple weeks) and had been kept relatively dry as it was housed inside the build chamber of my FF Dreamer printer. My first thought was the wheel diameter had such a tight radius when wound fresh onto the spool from the factory, once exposed to moisture it was never going to be as pliable without bringing it back up to hot room temperature and rewinding onto a larger diameter spool. That said, there wasn't enough material left of the brittle stuff to worry about so I chucked it into my excess plastic bin and simply stopped using the manufacturer supplied reels. I simply made an external reel system to hold much larger reels and feed the filament through a side vent and have been happily printing along since them. The avoid tangles my new spool holder system has a friction brake by simply twisting a wing nut. Thanks for this episode!

[@Ridgerunner2270]

Hi, I purchased a creality cr-10 mini over the holidays, and while I've been loving the printer I can't seem to fix one issue. I seem to get horizontal lines in my model when printing with pla. However this effect is greatly reduced when printing with petg. Any ideas on fixing this problem

[@EpicLPer]

Mine sometimes breaks off on my i3 MK3 head when trying to pull it out and then it's screwdriver time once again...

[@MakersMuse]

Yepyep experienced that too! You can usually force it through with another bit of filament or hex key if you can't reach it withdrawing... frustrating if it happens though.

[@licensetodrive9930]

I've not had any filament break off on my i3 Mk3 head, the only time I've had PLA break is when shifting reels around in their water tight storage tubs, the end bit sticking through the side of the reel can catch/compress against another reel and snap. I have found printing TPU at its recommended temperature can sometimes prove difficult, not melting quick enough in the hot end so gets stuck and pushes out the side. Printing it at a higher temp sorts it.