How To Maintain Your Air Conditioning Condensate Pump

[@mrmartinwatson1]

literally the only person who covered this type of pump. Everyone else just flashes a picture and continue with a different model conditioner.

[@grubbytom1234]

Thank you so much for the break down, clear concise, down to the point and very well explained. You just saved me at least 150$ calling a HVAC guy to come clean and drain the pump.

[@aviewaskew1419]

agreed !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! thanks for the video

[@juliamurphy5273]

Thank you!! I live in an apartment. Our places don't have good management now and our maintenance men quit. As it got to 101, 103 now, water was pouring down from overhead on my HVAC and my pump wasn't doing much. A new maintenance man finally came and "blew out the line". But I followed your instructions and emptied out the full nasty slime sludge out of my pump. Thank you!!!

[@enduringcharm]

Glad it was helpful!

[@waynehenson1094]

You sir are amazing, I saw water next to my furnace and my condensate pump was full of water. I did what I learned from you and followed the plastic tube outside noticed the tube was pinched. I squeezed and straightened the tube and water was shooting out. The pump drained down. Thank You and I thank KZbin.

[@enduringcharm]

That's great, I'm glad you were able to catch it quickly! If the tube doesn't stay "un-pinched" you can clip off a piece of the end with scissors so you know the tube size, and march on down to Home Cheapo or Lowes for replacement vinyl tube. It's not expensive.

[@broken_font1881]

In the state I'm in the condensation tube (vinyl tube) has to actually drain into a sink or into the house waste stack

[@jonathan170]

Thank you for this video! Not only did you help me figure out how to clean out the pump but I did not seriously think to look at the output hose (first time homeowner). My output hose was green with algae. As soon as I cleaned and tested the pump (shot up like an 18 year old boy), I knew it had to be a clog in the hose. You helped me save on a $100 - $150 service call, labor, and parts. Let's be honest too, most technicians would just replace the whole setup and charge more versus just doing what needs to be done and get someone up and running. You helped make me more independent, thank you. You also gave me food for thought with the output hose for outside the house. Once the weather gets better, I will be looking into extending that out to protect the foundation. Also, it was nice to have a high-level overview of an HVAC system explained. That helped me understand some of the components of my furnace/air conditioning unit. Lastly, I have a toddler, your video helped keep her warm at night. Thank you!

[@enduringcharm]

That's great to hear--thanks for the kind words!

[@markmunyui]

Did your house smell like sewage/rotten eggs? I'm struggling to find the cause of this smell in my house. It's confirmed not to be a gas leak, thankfully

[@FerrisV1]

Thanks for the video. My condensate pump would run for 10 minutes with a greatly reduced water flow through the outlet tubing when it used to run at full force for only 20 seconds. My reservoir inside was just as scummy as the one you were cleaning as well as the outside of the pump inlet. I took it apart, cleaned both as you did and it works perfectly again. I was lucky that I didn't burn the pump out and I will now check it out annually. Thank you again.

[@enduringcharm]

That's great, I'm glad the video was helpful!

[@marlonscott160]

This presentation is thorough, clear and succinct. You've saved my alot of time, effort and money. Thank you.

[@enduringcharm]

Glad it was helpful!

[@seannmoriarty2974]

OMG this video is great! Thanks so much for the overall insight on how these devices all work together, and how to make sure they stay in working order. 👍 😃

[@kunsam1957]

Thank you so much for the detailed explanation of the process of maintaining the condensate pump.

[@richardw4132]

Thank you for taking the time to do this video. It really helped.

[@georgekelley1330]

Great job on the video! You explained everything and showed step by step on how to do it all in a very precise manner. Not many videos out there like this. Thank you very much.

[@Thesimplehomeowner]

very detailed video, I have this same pump system and had no Idea it was that easy to clean.

[@dmdurazo]

Thank you for taking the time to make this video!! Great info

[@Anonymous-it5jw]

Thanks for showing us how it works, and how to clean it. If my attic condensate pump in a five-year-Trane heat pump system is noticeably noisy, am I typically looking at a gunked-up pump or at bad bearings in the motor? Service tech claims bad motor bearings and a $300 price on a new condensate pump, plus service call fee, to replace that condensate pump unit. Thanks for making this concise, easy to understand video. P.S. By way of background, when this attic heat pump was first installed, the authorized Trane dealer's install crew ran the drain line from the pump down to the foundation, and no further, causing my dry basement to start flooding. A simple six foot extension to the lawn fixed the problem, but short cuts were taken everywhere on this particular installation, including wires running at chest height across my finished attic, drilling holes through dry wall into my wife's closet ceiling (without covering the clothes first) for the thermostat wiring, which was left exposed in the top of the closet, and then out through the back of the closet into the adjacent hall, covering her expensive business clothing in gypsum dust, where these geniuses then installed the thermostat at a height of 72" instead of 60", ignoring the ease of access down the hollow space between the closet and hall walks, down through which the thermostat wire could have been run in 2 seconds, without the damage and dust they caused and the expense to their employer of having to pay an outside contractor's crew to fix the damage. The compressor on the outside was installed on a pad slanted sideways about 7 degrees. This us why I have questions.

[@enduringcharm]

Wow, that sounds like a nightmare. I don't know what your condensate pump looks like, but if it looks like something similar to the one in the video, they are not very expensive. Maybe about $60 at one of the home centers. You might get the name and model of the pump which is currently installed and just do a quick search for cost. You may find this is something you can tackle yourself.

[@vickigower8125]

Thanks for the helpful video. My AC stopped working, and my condensate pump is located under the house. To get there you have to crawl through a small opening on the side of the house and basically crawl to where the condensate pump is located. Kinda creepy to be honest. On top of that I just found out there is a deadly cobra that got loose and was last seen today less than a mile from my house. LOL I am grateful for your video that has helped me to at least feel a little bit of confidence about what I am looking at as far as my condensate pump goes. Have a great day!

[@enduringcharm]

I don't know why your condensate pump would be located under the house! The whole point of the device is that it can pump the condensate water through a tube to the outdoors, so it can be located anywhere near the AC evaporator. You might consider relocating the pump to somewhere more convenient. Can't help you with the snake problem, though!

[@vickigower8125]

@@enduringcharm Haha I hear ya. Well I don't know a lot about what is what, but I know the furnace and I guess the bulk of the A/c unit is under the house? I mean I think that's the case. The unit that has the big fan in it is outside the house, but the condensate pump is connected to stuff underneath the house. Haha what makes it creepier is when my dad built a deck off the back of the house, it extended out over the opening to the crawl space. So you have to lift up this hatch door in the deck to get to the little door that opens up to the crawl space. As it turns out the pump was full of water. I emptied and checked it out best I could and everything seemed fine. Float seemed to move freely etc. Once I did that and hooked everything back up the A/C ran. Sadly after a few hours it quit again as the receptacle for the pump was full of water again. I wasn't going through another night without my A/C so I ran to a Lowe's nearby and purchased a new pump and got home in time to get it hooked up before it got dark outside. It has been running great since then. Thanks again so much for your help. You gave me the confidence I needed.

[@dblake3806]

Good video. That condensate line is recommended by many AC guys to pour a little bleach in the pan regularly to keep it all clean and clear.

[@enduringcharm]

Yeah, that's not a bad idea if you don't overdo the bleach. However, some of those nasty solids are from other things in the airflow that gets drained into the condensate. A cleanout once every few years is still a worthy task.

[@theotherebikeguy1473]

I’m an A/C tech, and that gunk is algae that grows in the water. If the pan dries out the algae dies and turns to that crust. The aforementioned bleach trick is to kill the algae. It’s milky white when alive but when it dies it turns brown.

[@chuthi1399]

Thank you for making such detail video to share to curious viewer like me.

[@EzekielsCall]

We just had a long scenario that involved a tech replacing our condensation pump , another tech replacing the thermostat when we still had issues and then the entire furnace/air handler/a-coil/ outside unit all replaced... with the techs forgetting to take the tab out of the condensation pump so it would run (for two days in a row, two different techs examining the pump) I finally resolved the lack of air at the vents by adjusting the dampers until I was mostly getting air at all the vents (except one upstairs bedroom and the bathroom have miniscule air coming out). This morning I went downstairs and was looking at this new smaller profile furnace (more efficient they say) when I noticed that the PVC PIPE coming out of the a-coil drain pan, where it drains out to the condensation pump, has an OPEN ELBOW PIECE THAT IS BLOWING AIR! I probably would have assumed this is ok, except that I have done a lot of looking into this stuff, and never before did we need air blowing out of the pvc pipe like that. And I have not seen any other system like ours set up where air is coming out of an open pvc in this drain to the pump. I have a suspicion that the pvc blowing air out of it can't be right, but I am really hoping you can tell me if this is EVER normal or not. Our system is much like the one you are showing. It has the air flow come up from the bottom to blow across the coils, and the pip is about that mid level under the A-coil /Evaporator coils, where it drains out to the pump, and from there a tube is routed across the basement to the washing machine drain. The previous unit had a simple pvc pipe coming out and going to the pump - no holes in the pipes. This one has a pvc pipe with an elbow piece that is completely open, BLOWING AIR INTO THE BASEMENT. I find it hard to believe this is necessary or even beneficial. I don't know if it could cause issues, but I saw another video that makes me think it can cause pressure issues, AND it is clearly a waste! WHY would air be blown out like that into the basement when it should simply be blowing across the coils and remain a closed system??? I appreciate anything you can tell me. I am asking our maintenance dept to contact the company to ask about it, but I really would like an outside opinion from a professional. Thanks

[@enduringcharm]

I'm not certain I follow your whole description, and it can be difficult to make judgements without seeing things in person. However, it seems like you are saying that the condensation pipe was not completely installed. If it is a condensation pipe and it is made of PVC then it will be a one inch or 3/4 inch pipe, not something bigger. It should not be open, it should be glued together and draining into the condensation pipe. If you have air coming out of it, rather than water, then something was not done right. It makes me wonder if you have water leaking elsewhere since the pipe apparently is not connected to the pan? I don't know for sure what's going on, but it seems clear that you need to find a different HVAC company to take a look and get the installation right.

[@markb8954]

Excellent video. Lots of good tips. I wonder if a little bit of Clorox (or vinegar) added to the reservoir every blue moon would keep things clean. We had one fail. No one noticed and the water dripped & dripped & dripped and ruined some really nice parquet floor & drywall & paneling. A big mess. A little P/M goes a long way. Like smoke alarms, just check once or twice a year. Add some water & make sure the pump works.

[@enduringcharm]

That would be fine, although the bleach could cause some deterioration in the plastic or vinyl tubing if used excessively.

[@jenstarky6153]

Thank you so much for such a nice a brief video. Please keep up the great work, Thank you

[@aBluegrassPicker]

Great explanation. Thank you!

[@Snellysnel8]

Great video and super helpful thank you!!

[@5zwoodworks]

Might want to add the pvc drain pipe going into the pump should be cut at a 45⁰ angle. Yours is obviously not hitting the bottom if the pan but sometimes that pipe can move or push against the bottom of the pan

[@enduringcharm]

Right--either way you want to make sure the pipe isn't blocked.

[@lorrainedore6651]

This is a great video! Thank you so much for your tutorial. Very helpful 🙂👍👍

[@TerminalFIN]

Thanks for the video! Great information!

[@vincentgonzalez2160]

This was extremely helpful, thank you. Can I ask - How much water should still be in my reservoir normally? After my pump runs it seems like the reservoir is still half full.

[@enduringcharm]

It's much like a sump pump in a basement, it's normal to have some residual water. As long as the tray isn't overflowing you are good to go!

[@theotherebikeguy1473]

The float level determines what’s in the pan. If the water is sucked completely out, the pump over revs and makes an awful sound.

[@johnmellyn2700]

I have the same pump as in the video , my pump doesn’t kick on until it’s about 3/4 full and when it kicks on it really blasts the water out so it shuts off pretty quick leaving the unit still half full of water , so yes it’s normal for yours to still be half full without the pump kicking on ( probably why the water gets so nasty looking as seen in the video ) might be a good idea to unplug it, remove it and empty out out manually at the end of the summer so that water doesn’t sit in there all winter

[@philipbaio2237]

Great video

[@ericbrown1949]

Excellent video and very helpful; thanks!

[@keithwilson9718]

Some systems like mine have a safety switch in a pipe coming out . When condensate pump stops ,water backs up to pipe that has a sensor connected to a float switch. When the water backs up,float moves up,and once it activates the switch the system shuts off. That way it doesn't run water out into the floor ,or back I to air handler.

[@enduringcharm]

Good idea. I actually see these pumps leaking with some frequency. The homeowner just ignores it or doesn't notice the problem.

[@wuhan8014]

Thank you so much. You saved me a lot of money.

[@Carcar797-p1]

thanks. perfect information on this pump!

[@johnmellyn2700]

I have the exact same set up , and I had water on my floor last summer, I thought it was the pump, took it apart cleaned it all out , it worked fine , turned out there was a crack in the bottom of the first fitting coming out of the top ( where you pointed at12:47 ) it’s a 3/4” pvc fitting with a female thread that actually screws on to the mail nipple on the metal condensate pan , turned out it was cracked right along the threads ( maybe someone screwed it on too tight when they installed it, or maybe the fitting was sitting in the plumbers van all night in sub zero temps and it was brittle when he screwed it on and it got a slight crack that weakened over the years until it finally started leaking,… but that solved the problem

[@enduringcharm]

Yeah, the plastic fittings are not intended to be cranked down by a gorilla. Glad you identified the problem.

[@rockford8915]

Thank you for this video. The check valve on my Little Giant condensate pump broke flush to the plastic lid on the unit. I believe I need the 599065 CV-10 replacement check valve. The condensate pump seems to be working fine except for spraying water around now. What is the best way to remove the remainder of the check valve that is below the surface of the plastic lid?

[@enduringcharm]

If the lid can be removed you can probably wiggle the check valve loose from below. But, you may just want to replace the whole unit if the plastic has aged and is cracking now. A whole new pump is only about $60.

[@vincentgonzalez2160]

Again, thank you. Do you also have a video for cleaning out the condensation tray or tubing coming from the furnace?

[@enduringcharm]

I don't, and different models may have different means of access. If your condensate pump is coming on and off regularly, though, that shows that the tube is clear.

[@athike02]

Great video, very clear, thorough and helpful. Subscribed to see what else I can learn. Thanks!

[@njjoc3]

Great video... Thanks

[@SteelRaider12]

At the end, where you mention "That's a whole another story to clean that out", that's what I want to check next. Where the pipes goes from the pan to the pump. Do you need to open the panel up, check the drip pan and then snake the tube from there to the pump or can you open up the pipe outside the panel and clean there? I'd like to check the pump (I hear it go on but probably needs cleaning) and also clean the pipes inside since I'm getting water on the ground under the A/C unit. Also the AC system has been losing ability to cool so wondering if all that is blocking cooling. Great video!!

[@enduringcharm]

I have a whole video to answer those questions! See here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fGGapJWtj8yWqas

[@SteelRaider12]

@@enduringcharm Saw that video but doesn't show how to flexible small tube is flushed out only the pan and larger connections. I didn't see from the pump to the wash tub. That tube is long and not sure it needs flushing? Thank you sir.

[@enduringcharm]

Oh, you're asking about the clear vinyl tube that goes from the pump to either a drain or to the outdoors. Generally that does not need cleaning. However, if yours looks grungy you can go to Home Depot or Lowes and pick up a roll of new vinyl tubing for five or six dollars. Just note the size you have or cut a piece off and bring it with you.

[@AndyFyon]

Very helpful. Txs

[@billmarshall8438]

I'm stoked now to try fixing mine, which I paid $150 to learn has burned out. They want $700 to replace it. Think I'll try it myself first!

[@enduringcharm]

The cost of a new pump is under $60, so it is well worth replacing it yourself.

[@billmarshall8438]

@@enduringcharm Thank you for the video and your encouragement. If you see a small mushroom cloud in suburban Philadelphia sometime in the next week or so, however, it's probably due to me!

[@enduringcharm]

Ha! Well, if you figure out how to create nuclear fusion with a condensate pump I want half of the patent licensing revenue!

[@billmarshall8438]

@@enduringcharm Fair enough, but I don't usually get beyond fission!

[@billmarshall8438]

@@enduringcharm I figured if I followed your instructions I'd only be out of around $60, the cost of a new pump. I was wrong: My old pump was fine! The only problem was that the one-way exit valve for the condensed water was blocked. I took it out, soaked it in vinegar, squeezed vinegar through it until it cleared, put it back in and all is well. I'm thinking a little less of the company I've used for years, who came out and said fixing it would cost $700. My total cost was about $.10 worth of vinegar and the only tool I need was a pair of pliers to take the valve out. Thanks again for your video. I feel like I made $699.90 today. A nice feeling.

[@cjnorton]

Thank you. I live in an apartment and have been here far too long (14 years). Well, maintenance NEVER maintains these and only replace. I am on my second one, and the lines are gunky and the pump was nasty just from what I could get through the holes, but I've been afraid to take it apart because it's hardwired I guess? Has like fuse plugs or something with wires. It is to the point it won't stop running, so I've been flipping the fuse box switch to keep it off 😓....do I just do the same as you did? Help please.

[@enduringcharm]

First of all, your landlord should be worrying about this, not you! Perhaps you should try a communication reminding him of the water damage which will occur if the condensate pump is not replaced/repaired. That aside, if your condensate pump looks similar to the one on the video, then they are not that expensive to replace if need be, and the clear tubes should be replaced too. As you point out yourself, once the tubes get gunked up the pump is not going to work properly anyway. Since you do know how to cut the power, you should be able to open up the pump and clean it out yourself if you choose.

[@lowrypierce8054]

My experience is: The pump "on time" should be about 15 seconds to drain the tank. Drain time was about 20 seconds in the video after cleaning. A dirty check valve is a common problem. Clean or replace the check valve as needed. I prefer replacing with a new one. I keep some spare new ones. They are cheap. A wet/dry shop vac is an easy way to suck dirty water out the tank while still mounted to the furnace. My Little Giant pump is still working good after 14 years. :)

[@enduringcharm]

The time required to cycle the pump is going to be highly variable, so not really something you can use as a benchmark even for the same model. There will be differences in the float range, differences in the diameter, length, and friction loss of the drain hose, and differences in the height of the water column height. These sorts of variables will change the amount of time required to empty the tank. The important thing is to keep the pump clean and functioning, regardless of the amount of time it takes to cycle.

[@quez4286]

Thank you

[@aviewaskew1419]

2 GIANT BIG THUMBS UP !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THANKS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@krn14242]

Thanks John. I have a gravity feed PVC pipe straight to outside to a downward elbow. The water is nasty that drains out of it... I have a build-up of white stuff. Perhaps I might try to extend the pipe to change location.

[@chatryna]

Great video. I just want to flush out any drain fly larvae out of the pump that is like the one here in this video. Would you recommend pouring boiling water or a cup of vinegar into the resevoir?

[@enduringcharm]

Boiling water would not be a good idea, I don't know how the pump components would react to the heat. I guess vinegar wouldn't harm anything. I've never run across drain flies before. You might just as well clean out the whole tray as I showed in the video to be sure everything is gone.

[@chatryna]

@@enduringcharm I thought of just following your instructions. I am a little overwhelmed with the pest control. My city doesn't do much about it. I was also thinking about soaking some mosquito bits and then pouring the water into the resevoir with good beneficial bacteria. I have gnats in a closed up cellar where the hvac is. I thought for sure it would be coming from the pump. It might be coming from the soil that heaves thought the bricks when it rains. I will take a look at the set up. It is just resting on the floor. I think it is an easy set up. But then again, it is only about a year old. Your response is a pleasant surprise. I know the video was posted a while ago. Thank you much from Louisville KY.

[@mikem825]

Thank you! Great info!

[@lyriedegenhardt8005]

Good information

[@hrylegzhrylegz4512]

Thank you for the video!!! My condensate pump valve broke in half and therefore water all on the floor. 😡 Do you know how to remove the piece that's still screwed in? Or do I need to purchase a new pump?

[@enduringcharm]

I'm not sure which piece you are talking about, but a whole new condensate pump is not that expensive if you need one.

[@hrylegzhrylegz4512]

@@enduringcharm Thank you! I just purchased the last one in stock just in case. But I'm not too confident on doing the electrical part. We'll see. Thanks again!

[@SuperLuckysingh007]

Nicely explained, thank you! I have two hvac systems in my basement, one in each corner. For some reason the flexible drain pipe is installed on the other end of the basement which is around 50 feet from the furnace. Now, the pump is fine but my flexible pipe is blocked around halfway. How can I unclog it? Please advise! I tried blowing air with a compressor through it but the compressor wasn’t powerful enough.

[@enduringcharm]

When you say "flexible pipe" what, exactly, is there? Typically it's just clear vinyl tubing. If that's what you have, it might be easier just to run and pick up a coil of new tubing. It's not that expensive. You might also find a way to shorten the length if there is another path to the outside.

[@SuperLuckysingh007]

@@enduringcharm yes, it’s the clear vinyl pipe. The problem is that the ceiling is finished so access to the pipe is very hard, I have another set of same type pipe which is draining into the bath tub in my basement since this problem started in December last year.

[@enduringcharm]

Well, you might be able to attach new tubing to the end of the old tubing using electrical tape, and then pull the new tubing through by pulling the old tubing out. Or, you might be able to fish new tubing through by cutting a few access holes. But, 50 feet is a really long run for this tubing so I would consider trying to figure out a shorter run somewhere closer to the source.

[@SuperLuckysingh007]

@@enduringcharm I appreciate your suggestions! I will try your ideas. Thank you so much for replying 🙏

[@juanmariasriveria]

GOD BLESS YOU.

[@snickerdoodle7188]

I used bleach regularly and it corroded the motor badly. I since use white vinegar which is not as strong but does the job.

[@enduringcharm]

Bleach can be used, but we're talking small amounts and occasional use--like maybe once a year. Ideally you simply pull the tank off and clean it once in a while as I've shown here.

[@broken_font1881]

Bleach can also degrade the seals in the pump aswell. Vinegar is a great alternative 🤔😄

[@tombouie]

Thks much

[@jazagumo]

How did you get the reservoir open? Mine looks similar but I'm not seeing any obvious way to get it open.

[@enduringcharm]

Most of them just snap in place. If you carefully press in on the sides the top will likely pop open, or you may have to pry on the edge.

[@Bailster]

My A/C unit stopped last week. I live in a VERY old building and my unit is in the basement. I HATE my maintenance guy, and am pretty handy....so would prefer to do this myself. It’s not my thermostat, I’m 100% sure! I’ve done the whole breaker on/off business. And ONE time...my A/c finally powered back on for about 20 seconds, but then shut off for good. The sound (when I had it working for a few minutes) came from the pump...so I’m guessing it’s not a fuse, the breaker OR my thermostat, but that there’s a clog somewhere preventing my unit to power on. Can you please help?!?!

[@enduringcharm]

It's impossible to diagnose from afar. If you are talking about a typical split system you have a condenser outdoors with a fan and pump, an evaporator indoors with it's own fan or a shared fan with the heating system, and control electronics which include the thermostat. A problem with any of these components could cause a system not to work or to work intermittently. And, each brand/model has it's own quirks. I'm afraid you'll need some help.

[@tcc447]

I liked the video until very end when it's stated you only have to maintain pump by "cleaning it out every 4-5 years" I've had so many issues with my pumps.I've gone through 3 pumps in the last 2.5 years. The latest replacement cost $900 including service charge just to come out to house, "labor" and taxes. I'm sure the pump itself cost only $70-$80.

[@enduringcharm]

If you have a similar setup as in the video, then the pump should last significantly longer than that. And that kind of labor charge is outrageous. You need to find a different vendor.

[@nadabeydoun7617]

Would this be the reason why it would make a whistling sound? Mine is going that constantly now

[@enduringcharm]

A whistling sound? Eh, that's not a normal thing! Possibly the pump motor is just giving out from age. They aren't that expensive to replace. If you know the pump is 15-20 years old, or whatever, then it might be worth installing a new one as a preventative measure.

[@keearun]

We changed the A/C unit a year ago, the evaporator coil was also changed. Almost a year later, when ever we turn the furnace on (heat or cool) there is a nauseating smell that come out of the vents. This is a forced air system and the smell is always there when ever the furnace is running. What's causing the smell and is there any way of getting rid of it. This never happened with the old A/C system.

[@enduringcharm]

Obviously I can't evaluate the smell from here. If it's a mildew kind of smell it's possible there is/was an issue with the installation which left you with a condensate pan that doesn't drain. If it's a burning or chemical kind of smell it could be related to the paint, the wiring/electronics or oils on the fan. The good news is that it's almost certainly fixable, though it may take some time for the odor to dissipate from the ductwork. I would suggest calling in a different heating/AC company than the one you used and have them evaluate the smell. It's not that big a deal to take some of the housing apart and poke around inside. Depending on the nature of the smell they may recognize the issue immediately.

[@suliatu2010]

thank you thank you

[@craigzilla100]

How about the inlet pipe? Should we pull that off and snake it out? I'm sure it's full of gunk. My pump works but my HVAC will leak when it runs too hard - my theory is that the drain pipe is barely working.

[@enduringcharm]

It is possible that the drain leading to your condensate pump is clogged with gunk or rust. It's also possible you have a leak in the condenser pan itself. It can't hurt to take a look. This video is on a related subject and may be helpful: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fGGapJWtj8yWqas

[@craigzilla100]

@@enduringcharm thanks! I actually cut it off last night and it was pretty nasty in there. I snaked it and it seems to be draining a lot better!

[@blksix6]

So my furnace has the PVC tray/pipe mentioned at 2:30, but I also have a larger PVC pipe/drain leg with a smaller tube coming out that where my water/condensate comes out of, that I've now put into my pump so it can drain properly. Why do I have two?

[@enduringcharm]

I'm guessing you are looking at a primary and secondary "backup" line. The backup exists in case the primary gets clogged or damaged.

[@dreadzheadzatl]

Hi where d>d you buy that pump?

[@enduringcharm]

You can find them at Home Cheapo or Lowes. They are often hidden in the plumbing section.

[@shoyrushoyru]

my condensate pipe coming from the air exchanger is an L shape that goes directly into the pump's reservoir without any brackets or clamps anywhere along its run, and sandwiches the pump against the floor. i cannot remove the pump for cleaning because the condensate pipe is too long and trapping the pump against the floor. there are no clamps or screws involved. how do i handle this? is there a flexible pipe available instead so that this doesn't continue to be an issue?

[@enduringcharm]

Without seeing it in person it's hard to tell, but I have several suggestions. First, you may be able to simply push the pipe end out of the pump housing if there is enough flex. Second, you may be able to crack open the top of the pump housing and remove the bottom tray. Then there will be room to drop down the top and remove it too. Another option along those lines is to run the pump to clear the water out and then twist the pump housing out from under the pipe. Finally, you can probably cut the drain pipe so that it just barely fits into the pump housing, which will make it easy in the future to just temporarily bend it out of the way when desired.

[@shoyrushoyru]

@@enduringcharm ive definitely tried tugging up on the pipe above the pump and it doesnt really jiggle more than a few millimeters. i also tried tilting the pump to see if i could get one side low enough to slide out from under the pipe and that didnt work either. ill give opening the casing another go and try sliding the cover up the pipe to get the top and bottom out separately. i kind of tried opening it before but i wasnt sure if id break it so i stopped. thanks for the speedy reply, the ideas sound great! i don't really have any cutting tools on hand, but if i have some work done in the future, ill see about requesting that they shorten the pipe. thanks!

[@shoyrushoyru]

@@enduringcharm Thanks for all the suggestions! I left a reply saying I was able to clean it, probably two days ago but it seems to have disappeared. Anyway, I tried the method of removing the top and sliding it up the pipe so that I could get the bottom reservoir out, and I did have to tilt it a considerable amount and ended up spilling some water all over my concrete floor, but was able to get it out in the end. I cleaned it of the thin layer of dense brown sediment sitting at the bottom of the reservoir and pump housing and flushed out some nasty tube shaped bacterial stuff that gushed back down from the vinyl drain line when I disconnected it from the pump. I ran some diluted bleach water down the vinyl line, then rinsed it with clean water a little bit later and pushed some air through the line with my air compressor and finally put everything back together. Thanks again!

[@enduringcharm]

I'm glad you got it sorted. Pretty gross in there, right? If you are curious about what it looks like in the evaporator before it gets to the condensate pump, check out this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fGGapJWtj8yWqas

[@KarenB-y5h]

ty

[@Mopardude]

Good tips!

[@ncvman]

Do you need a trap on the condensate pvc pipe coming out of unit?

[@enduringcharm]

If memory serves the only mention of it in the codebooks are to adhere to the manufacturer's recommendation. Some units may need one to meet energy efficiency. If you don;t have one on an existing unit i wouldn't worry about it. if you are installing a new evaporator go by what the manufacturer recommends.

[@IYG-x7c]

Why is there so much crap inside? Mine looks the same just after 2 years of use? Is it a better idea to dumb all that condensate in sump pump instead?

[@enduringcharm]

In some installations it may be possible to gravity-feed the condensate to a sump pump, but for most homes you need a condensate pump to get the water out. The condensate pumps do tend to work well even when they get mucked-up, but it's better to give it a cleaning once in a while.

[@IYG-x7c]

@@enduringcharm I was just curious where all that stuff comes from, I thought condensate is just water. I checked my boiler condensate pump and it looked pretty clean compared to AC. Sump pump is also right next to AC, d humidefier, and boiler. My understanding is that boiler condensate can't go to sump pump, not sure about others. My boiler condensate has a very long run to public sewer.

[@bluwng]

Mine only works when the float is all the way to top then shuts off quickly, is that normal?

[@enduringcharm]

It should work just like a basement sump pump. When the float rises to a certain level the pump comes on, until the float drops back down and it switches the pump off. If you notice that your pump only works for a very short duration, it may be that the float is bent or there is something obstructing it. You can take the unit apart and clean it like I've done in the video, and possibly you can bend the float downward just a bit so the pump comes on earlier.

[@bluwng]

@@enduringcharm thanks, will do

[@domr.204]

hi im pretty sure i trouble shooted my pump and its not working,i need to order a new one. my pump is hard wired to my ac unit ...the new pump thats coming in has an extension cord, can i open the new pump .disconnect the extension cord and wire the new pump with the exciting hard wires?? need help asap.

[@enduringcharm]

A few thoughts. First, did you confirm with a meter that there is power to the existing pump and that there isn't something like a loose connection causing the issue? Second, if a new pump is needed you should be able to go to your local Home Cheapo or Lowes or plumbing supply store to pick one up. And, third, most pumps that I've seen are plugged into an outlet tied to the furnace switch. That may even be code, I'd have to research. In any case, it's a good arrangement so why not install a receptacle box on your system so you can use that style? Likely you could use the same power source you have now, just feed it to a new box you install, then you can use your new pump (if needed) as is.

[@domr.204]

​@@enduringcharm first thank you for taking the time out to reply . i used ur tips and cleaned out the P- trap, opened the sub pump ,bought a multi meter (first time using one. sh%t scared of electric) now im testing everything around the house thank you ), in a nut shell everything came out right with your instructions,which on the videos you explain everything in great detail thanx for being calm and the way you put your words together and accent( sounds like a BRONX accent)were im from. makes you want to listen more,your great. thanx again MR JOHN .thank you

[@enduringcharm]

Ha! That's a Jersey accent! People say I sound like Joe Pesci. I've been called worse. Glad things worked out well, and here's another video about using multimeters which may be helpful: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nWG8g56tq5ljqJo

[@domr.204]

@@enduringcharm as long as ur not as tall as he is,your good.thanx again , crazy thing is i just seen your reply on my way to study your video on the multimeter again .bugged out. thanx again

[@jvirg]

is it okay to spray it with a hose? isn't there electronics in there

[@enduringcharm]

If you take the top off, usually it's the bottom half that's nasty, and you can spray the bottom of the top half, if you see what I mean. Or just spray it all down with bleach cleaner and wipe it with paper towels.

[@jeanettereese5613]

Oh gosh, I threw my pump away, I didn’t know I could clean it & reuse it. 🤦🏾‍♀️

[@longbow60435]

So what about the other story of cleaning the tray? If your going to clean the pump only,,then the job is half done! wheres the video on how to clean the tray/channel?

[@enduringcharm]

You mean the evaporator tray? There are a million different brands and models, and that would be a lot of videos!

[@chrisg0001]

put some vinegar in the pump. cleans it like a charm

[@jeffm2787]

Where is the P-Trap on that system, would be sucking air if it's like any other systems. Perhaps the fit on the pump is enough to make it a non issue. Then again I wouldn't want it sucking air out of that nasty pump back into the air handler.

[@enduringcharm]

Condensate from the evaporator tray to the pump tray is gravity fed. There is no trap in that case, although for large commercial evaporators set on rooftops you will see a little dip in the condensate pipe to serve the purpose of a trap. In that case the condensate is dripping right onto the roof and part of the idea is to prevent bugs or whatever from getting in. I mean, the evaporator tray is wide open, after all. The tube from the pump to the outdoors does have a loop in it, which serves as a trap.

[@jeffm2787]

@@enduringcharm Hmm, I thought it was to prevent air from being pulled back into the air handler via the condensate pipe.

[@enduringcharm]

In theory the system should be balanced so that air coming in matches air coming out. That's one reason you have return ducts in forced air system. Of course, the reality is that these systems have all sorts of air leaks throughout the ductwork and the airbox. Commercial systems sometiomes have a door/inlet for outside air to enter the loop. There is some minor air pressure on the condensate pipe, which could be in or out depending on fan location, but it's really not much. Most residential systems I've seen do not have any sort of trap. Possibly it's code in some places or required for energy efficiency from the manufacturer. Either way, I don't think it's a big concern.

[@jeffm2787]

@@enduringcharm Makes sense, thanks for the answer.

[@hassanzorome7497]

Great video