How to Make a Picture Frame Sled | This Improved Version is very Accurate

I decided to make a dedicated picture frame sled for my small shop. I chose to make a sled based on the design by David Picciuto from the KZbin Channel Make Something. Most of the builds I've seen of this design are based on a large cabinet style table saw. My saw is very small so I had to adapt the design to work on my saw. This project did have some challenges but I feel that the end result is going to make great picture frames.
Check out Davids original video - • How to Make a Picture ...
Here's my original sled build from 2017 - • How to build a Miter S...
-- Affiliate Links to Products Used --
Milwaukee Framing Square - amzn.to/3jLvDw4
Titebond Wood Glue - amzn.to/3g9Uvgj
3M High Strength Spray Adhesive - amzn.to/3s4moLo
Forstner Bit Set - amzn.to/37B8vLf
-- Visit My Website--
www.homebuiltworkshop.com/
-- Ways To Support HBW --
www.homebuiltworkshop.com/sup...
-- My TeeSpring Store --
teespring.com/stores/home-bui...
-- My Amazon Affiliate Store for recommended products--
www.amazon.com/shop/homebuilt...
-- Join the HBW Built not Bought Facebook Group --
/ 623919504748705
-----Connect on Social Media-----
/ homebuiltshop
/ homebuiltshop
/ homebuiltshop
/ homebuiltshop
-- Check Out My Handmade Guitars --
www.hayleyguitars.com/
----- My Mailing Address -----
Home Built Workshop LLC
P.O. Box 84
Peyton, CO 80831
Please remember when using tools of any type, there is the potential for injury. You are responsible for your own safety. Make sure you know how to use your tools properly, work at your own risk, be safe, wear your safety gear, and most of all, have fun!
#smallshop #mitersled #pictureframes

[@pianoman173]

Thank you! I couldn’t find anybody else talking about offsetting the first cut on the corner of the aluminum square to be able to have a “true” zero reference with the markings. I was wondering about this exact thing!

[@TransplantHelper]

Good job, like you my saw is small so I I needed this modification

[@lannybiggs4438]

I looked at a lot of sleds on KZbin. My opinion is that yours is the best so that is how I am going to build mine.

[@MakerTom2022]

My table saw is small too, and your workthroughs really helped. Thanks!!

[@weekendwarrior9570]

Excellent video. Never give up and never surrender. I like your style. Keep up the good work.

[@gailjohnson3544]

I absolutely love it. I would like to make one just like yours

[@BlessedLaymanNC]

I'm glad to see you have trouble, not "that" you had trouble. What you experienced is what many of us newbies see woodsmiths make things and it looks easy. And it is! If you have practice and experience, it is easy, but for someone still unsure of their skills and aren't set up the same, things go wrong! I suppose you figured this out quickly without saying as much, but if you had made the sled square to the table, the excess weight would have been on the other side of the blade and its center of gravity would have been on the table instead of where you stand. Speaking of which, you could still have removed the excess behind the square to make room for your belly. But, that would be much more important to me than to you. ;)

[@giovannipetitti1588]

very good as always my friend 💯💯💯👍❤️

[@homebuiltshop]

A big thanks to you Giovanni!

[@paulwaldrop]

Nice sled. Yeah, I ordered David P's plans and built mine. I've got a jobsite saw, so I know the limitations that you speak of. Made my first picture frame, last weekend, and it turned out great. Like the way you did yours.

[@homebuiltshop]

Awesome, Did you have any issues getting your to balance like I did?

[@Colt-4570]

Great explanations. Another thing with mounting the long side to the left is that your ruler will measure in 1/16's. If you mount the long side to the right, it measures in 1/12's, which drives me nuts. Thanks.

[@thor2015]

I'm not sure if your table saw has this or not, but my small/cheap Kobalt table saw actually has t-slots where the runners go. When I build my sled I fully intend to add something to the bottom of my runners to make them T shaped and "lock" them into the slots therefore eliminating the need for perfect weight distribution. Thank you though for taking the time to not only design and build this sled but for taking the time to film and edit the process. It was very informative.

[@LetTheBoyzWatch]

I was thinking about making the left hand rail extended on the front with wood and plywood so it will sit further in the track on that side but cut off all excess and keeping the rest set back like this design

[@jvmiller1995]

you could of left the runners long in the front and added a little weight to them. My table saw does not have a super huge table either but it has T slots. My daughter is a artist and I recently started building the canvases frame and stretching them for her. I decided it might be nice to make some high end frames. I purchased some molding bits for the 3 hp router and am going to go all out. My hope is she can sell some rames with the art. She is a very talented artist. I like this build.

[@TheMikeNan]

To add weight up front on your sled, just orientate the base to be square and not at a 45 deg angle. That will add weight up front. Still remove any excess wood on the back. Thanks for the video.

[@laurac4562]

good video

[@user-xp3de2by8m]

Add extra peice to saw table 2x4 or bigger

[@andyoates4901]

Maybe add some magnets into those forstner bit holes with hot glue to help hold the sled down?

[@jerryk5084]

Embed some magnets a little deeper into the front of the sled.

[@milosrankovic8952]

Just add an infeed removable small table to help you with the weight issue.

[@markharmon6392]

I built a similar sled for my Shop smith table saw. I simply added an auxiliary table off to one side which supports my sled. My sled is more of a rectangle so the right side hangs off the back more than the left. Works great with no tipping issue.

[@hu5116]

Needed to have left some board out front for balance

[@fin3125]

If you are off you get you will get a perfect 90 but you'll have one edge longer than the other. I have a Sawstop so I would need to cut a lot further back.

[@homebuiltshop]

Yes, You'd need to widen the slot so the blade doesnt touch the metal.

[@jimbond24]

Jeff, I feel like if you add more plywood to the front and use your biscuits or Kreg tool to attach then some wood braces from your front wood supports it will add the weight your looking for without adding front length.

[@homebuiltshop]

I was thinking about that. I actually had some pieces laid out that I was going to splice on the front. I'll give this a try and see how it goes. I may just add more material at some point.

[@dagger680]

What if you make drill holes or cut channels in front and melt some lead into the voids to create counterweights up front? When I was a kid my dad and I did this with my pinewood derby car to make it as aerodynamic as possible and make it as heavy as possible. Came in second place in the state championship!

[@pjbankston]

I have a table saw just like yours. I would love to see how you would make a zero clearance insert for it.

[@homebuiltshop]

I've been pondering that for years.

[@josevillanueva6992]

Thanks for sharing your project and tips. I tell you what. If you had some problems of balance on that table saw. Just imagine my problem with a cordless Dewalt table saw. It's a lot more small than yours. Wish me luck. Greetings from El Salvador. Central America.

[@homebuiltshop]

I'm sure you could make it work. One idea was to mount the square facing the other way so the weight was over the saw and not hanging off the back. I haven't tried that, but I think that may be something to experiment with.

[@josevillanueva6992]

@@homebuiltshop what you think if I make de sled running only on my left side of the saw. Because this cordless table saw have only one t track slot on the left side.

[@mikejohnson9850]

Just a question... I like the jig, but wouldn't you want to install splines or dowels to strengthen the joints? It would seem a jig to cut spline for these frames would be a good finishing tool

[@homebuiltshop]

You are correct. Once you make the frame its best to reinforce the joint with splines or some other method. I should have mentioned that in this video.

[@elioth.g.w2976]

I do need to make one of these for my small table saw ( working in a 8x12 shed ) , Since you only use the dimensions one side would an aluminium ruler or stick on tape work? (with a little more setup to get the 90 deg on the wood below)

[@homebuiltshop]

Yes, A ruler would work great, like you said there would be just a little more setup on the other side but it would work great.

[@fogsmart]

Maybe I missed it but what is the preference for running the longer leg left versus right? Most of these tutorials for the jig with rafter square have the longer leg on the users right side when facing the tablesaw from the fence bar.

[@pianoman173]

He is left handed. But you can put the framing square in whatever orientation is comfortable to you

[@paulmoritoshi8184]

Just a thought, but wouldn’t even a short in-feed assembly solve this problem and others and make using it safer?

[@billbrown3414]

Weight overhang issue: Flip the jig 180-degrees so the framing square points at you instead of away. That should put all the weight on the table.

[@joshsoorlin579]

Ya but then u would cut your thumbs off

[@James-dk2df]

Can i ask are you using a Craftmans Tsble saw. Kinda looks like mine.

[@homebuiltshop]

It is a craftsman. I've had it for years and its still going.

[@James-dk2df]

@@homebuiltshop Thank you and i have the same one.

[@vince8723]

insert a magnet under the plywood. it should keep it down. i cut aluminum on all woodworking tools. many woods melamine and crap in particle board are a lot harder on the blades than aluminum. with carbide everywhere no reason not too. even cheep blades are fine. if you want you can brush some oil on the blade to keep the chips from sticking to the blade. also i often cut steel on my table saw with no problem. just change to a thin metal cutting disk and cut a little at a time by bringing blade higher on every pass if peace is to thick. just don't set your sawdust on fire.

[@kennethnielsen3864]

Dagm that was a lot of work.

[@homebuiltshop]

It gave me fits. Lol. I'm happy to have it together though.

[@kennethnielsen3864]

@@homebuiltshop sometimes it's good for the head, to have to rethink a project, keeps the mind sharp.

[@johnbauer3801]

Check the "The Newbie Woodworker" on KZbin on how to make runners for table saws with flanges in the grooves...

[@homebuiltshop]

I'll check it out. My saw doesn't have any flanges though, its just a groove.

[@UnicornMeat512]

I dont know what I did wrong. I'm getting a 45.6 degree cut. 🤦‍♂️ back to the drawing board

[@homebuiltshop]

Interesting. It should work though as long as you cut the mating piece on the other side.

[@UnicornMeat512]

@@homebuiltshop yea. I'm not sure what happened. I just unscrewed the short side and screwed it back together while clamps held everything to a square. Weirdness.

[@pctatc66]

wonder how many sawstop users are gonna fire their brakes?

[@binnsbrian]

They will have to use a plastic square.Or learn the hard way.

[@homebuiltshop]

In the original video I saw, he made the slot wider and used a piece of wood as a filler to avoid the Sawstop brake going off.

[@robertwhite299]

@@binnsbrian Turn on the brake bypass

[@hmtrimworks7148]

Omg 🤦‍♂️… you actually cut the framing square for this 😳🙄… -Just make a typical square table sled and cut a corner triangle off a piece of scrap plywood and center it on the sled cut line… boom, done

[@homebuiltshop]

I wanted to have the numbers and a place for the adjustable stop block. Your idea will make the same cuts though. Thats how I made my first miter sled.

[@mlrable]

Should have fold ups to increase table saw top

[@jaydee3730]

Not a fan of the sandpaper on the bottom of the stop block. Every time you reposition it, you are removing material from your base. It will just get looser and looser over time. Something like felt may have been a better solution...