How to Make a Simple and Quick 3D Printer Filament Dry Box | Free STL

[@redwagnum]

One suggestion: Move the PTFE tube adapter to two inches from the top rather than the bottom. With it at the bottom you have to run out a couple feet of filament (under the bottom) to put it in the tube, then put the spool in and take up the slack. If you put it near the top you can put the spool in first then run the filament only a few inches to the PTFE tube (over the top). Much easier (IMO) to change spools too. Great work though!

[@zez000]

I wonder why this has such low view count. it's a pretty awesome little project, definitely gonna try this out.

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Thanks! I have enjoyed mine. If you have any issues let me know.

[@kylek29]

Just as a savings tip, once you're done cleaning the bearings with Iso-Alcohol or Acetone, you can pour the liquid back into a mason jar with a couple coffee filters (forming a floating cup from the brim), then close it. After about an hour, you'll have a decent recapture as the gummy grease will be strained out. Saves when you have a lot to clean. I'd mark the bottle it goes back into, so you know to only use it for stuff you don't need the purest version of.

[@BuildItMakeIt]

That is a great idea in saving the alcohol. Thanks!

[@mypersonaljourneytochessma2785]

WOW! This is the BEST drybox project I have seen!!! My only suggestion is to make 2 openings on top and the bottom of the moisture detector to increase the accuracy. The more air enters to the detector, the more accurate data.

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Oh, I am not sure why my previous response didn't post, but thank you so much. I am glad you like it. Your idea is great and I made a more open design that is open at the sides and top. Thanks again for your suggestion.

[@SolidMental]

Made one out of a 10 gallon aquarium. 10 Gallon Fish Tank 20x12 Plexiglass Sheet 3 Stainless steel door hinges (3 to keep the plexiglass from bowing in the middle) 1 12" to 20" adjustable tension rod 1 Digital hygrometer/thermometer 6 m Ultra-Smooth PTFE Tube, 2mm ID Teflon Tube 7 PTFE Tube Adapters 1 Mini adjustable aquarium heater I also added a powered 4 port USB hub to power the hygrometer, the aquarium heater and the LED Lighting. To add a little character, I also added vinyl to the bottom and back of the aquarium. I tilted the aquarium with the opening facing front so the filaments feed from the bottom through the plexiglass door.

[@BuildItMakeIt]

That sounds like an awesome build.

[@jaydogg9478]

What type of aquarium heater? Usually they are designed to be submerged in water.

[@peterfransham5792]

Parts arrived from Amazon yesterday and I finished the box off in 15 minutes. I had already printed the files you supplied. For want of a better description - It worked great out of the box. I am finishishing printing the second base and will make a 3rd as well. Thanks for putting this together. I changed the height on the exit fitting to match the input of my printer.

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Great to hear! Thanks for the info.

[@combatsurvivalofalabama1835]

Wow very nice! Downloaded and printing now. Will get supplies and upload progress. Definitely found my new favorite channel!!

[@DjMarkGallo]

Made 6 of these and they're great. The base is a little thin/flimsy but it gets the job done. I drilled another hole about 4 inches above and used a 2nd ptfe adapter to insert the ptfe back into the box when that particular box isnt being used. The only feature I think is missing from this cool build is a winding mechanism to spool/unspool the filament without opening the lid (but not sure the juice is worth the squeeze). Thanks for sharing!!

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Thanks! That is a really good idea to feed the filament/ptfe tube back inside itself when not in use. Thanks for the great idea.

[@paulswarthout9967]

I live in St Louis, MO. We're surrounded by 3 rivers, so it's always humid here. My office runs about 50% to 60% relative humidity from April to October. I have been using the vacuum seal bags to store my filament, along with a pouch of desiccant and a hygrometer. But that is such a hassle -- constantly pulling filament out of the bag and then resealing the bag and sucking it so the desiccant doesn't become wet while I'm using the filament. Your way is a much better solution. I won't need to open the box when switching filaments. I've just ordered parts on Amazon and will be printing the printed parts today on my Ender 3.

[@chepossofare]

I'm using the 3.7L since the 4L are pretty much unobtanium. Just shrinked the y of 3.7mm and they snapped perfectly. The "wings" over the roller bearing attach are brittle, but they works. I'd suggest covering the rollers with tape, to improve the grip. Overall, awesome project.

[@danzo5521]

Great video, thank you for sharing and supporting the comment section

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Thanks so much. I am glad it so many people are able to benefit from the design and for people’s great feedback.

[@Calculatedmaker]

Thank you for putting together this project and making the STL available. You saved me a bunch of time on a much needed solution for printing PETG. Well done video also.

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Glad it helped!

[@MMuraseofSandvich]

One tip: If you're using abrasive filaments like carbon fiber nylon, you might want to swap out the PTFE tube every so often, maybe once a year. Markforged has a drybox very similar to this without the humidity sensor, and the PTFE tube they use is a consumable item because Onyx is an abrasive filament.

[@craftingmat5425]

I knew the cerial boxes from a different project with a centered rod for the filaments. I like this approach so much more and I will go for it. Already ordered all the parts. Really good video and presentation - LIKE!!

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Thanks so much. Glad you liked it and let me know how it goes.

[@leightonhowarth]

Great idea, made 2 and have another 4 to build, works like a dream 😊

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Great to hear!

[@venthril7745]

Everything will be here in the mail today, printing your stl's right now. Thank you very much this is awesome!

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Awesome! I hope is goes great. Let me know how it turns out.

[@mikesbasement6954]

Just made one of these and have one suggestion. The uprights that hold the connectors for the bearings are far too thin and break really easily. I fixed it by super gluing a popsicle stick to the outside.

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Thanks for the info! They should just barely fit inside the cereal containers which gives the strength to the print and maximizes space for the rolls. There are other designs that are meant to be free standing.

[@adams1625]

There's a small problem with this roller when using some plastic spool. The plastic spools are thinner on the edge and get caught between the roller and the roller holder, which adds a ton of friction to the roll. To fix this, plastic spools should have an adapter that widens the edges up the roll to at least 3mm. Otherwise, these drybox rollers are great a year later.

[@sethchristy3900]

Just printed this on my new p1p and it works great, only problem ive had is the barrings are loose and dont click in

[@BuildItMakeIt]

You can try shrinking just the x and y axis by 2% on the roller which should help.

[@Gripfastvids]

Going to make this! Just ordered everything off of Amazon. I know this vid is 2 yrs old but I hope it goes off without a hitch. Going to your site to download the files. Wish me luck!

[@colinl5710]

How did yours go? I just got all the parts myself.

[@Gripfastvids]

@colinl5710 went pretty well! I soaked my bearings like in the video and added my own lube. This is NOT a necessary step because my bearings came with a good amount of grease and spun pretty good (maybe even better) right outta the package. It's definitely a cool print. The beads have their own little container which is cool. I got my filament down to below 20% humidity which is great. Also, I did have to fix the housing for the humidity gauge as when I pushed in in it snapped some of the posts off the print (this is specific to the "more flow" STL version)

[@bigdawghoss9871]

Just made this. Awesome design! A great addition to my p1p with arc enclosure

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Glad you like it! Those P1Ps look awesome. How are you liking yours?

[@bigdawghoss9871]

@@BuildItMakeIt it's a fantastic machine. Fast. Reliable. I've printed more in the month I've had it. Than the 6 months I had another printer(monoprice mp10 mini) . It's a game changer. It's even gotten some of my friends into the hobby.

[@CyricRO]

You make inserting the ptfe adapters look so easy. I used a 8.5 inch drill bit, but twisting those things in.... I couldn't use my wrench until they were slightly threaded, and let me just say my hand is actually bleeding.

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Yikes sorry! Maybe the plastic got switched out for a tougher one? That is crazy, but good plan on threading it. Sorry about your hand.

[@CyricRO]

​@@BuildItMakeIt Thanks for the sentiment, my hand will be fine in a day or two. I want to design a holder for these dryboxes that can bolt down onto the top of my enclosure. Any ideas?

[@BuildItMakeIt]

@@CyricRO I haven’t seen any bolt down that people have done, but I have seen some bases printed that the boxes snuggly fit into to make them a little more stable.

[@TheUnofficialMaker]

chuck it up

[@billiambarnett]

Def use tree supports only on the plate! The “more ventilation” option is very fragile using PLA.

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Yeah, this is meant to minimize filament usage to maximize the size of rolls you needs and needs to be used inside the container, not free standing. Thanks for the tip on the tree supports.

[@grantsmithusa]

Hello builditmakeit guy, thanks for this idea, I now have 4 of them, working great, nice design, easy build and use. I just sent a donation through your website. Much appreciated Sir!

[@RDUBTutorial]

Love this design and price for this diy. However…the frame is a bit flimsy and cracks because the bearing last get stuck on the tabs on the base. My bearings did not snap into the roller… they slid in easily…but stick tightly on the post /table. Also my rollers had a bump that ran end to end which was bumping the filament spool and casing it to slowly move off center and then come off the rail and get stuck. After sanding it off both rollers I realized it was the spiral of the rollers causing the derailing. So I tried flipping the direction of the rollers a few times so they spiral in opposition to each other and stop the spool from tracking over to one side or the other. I’d suggest sanding the bearing pins so they come off easier.

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Oh sorry that sounds rough. So far I haven't heard of people having that much issues but it does seem to be printer dependent. Sound like you may need to shrink it by 1-2% which would help the bearings fit into the roller tighter and then not get as stuck on the roller bearing pins. That was a great idea about switching the roller directions to help with that tracking.

[@RDUBTutorial]

@@BuildItMakeIt I made the walls thicker ( by one and changed the infil - in know there really isn’t any) and sanded the heck out of my rollers … now it’s better. Made 2 for now ..Wish I could send a pick here.

[@Ender_Wiggin]

Printed on a Prusa XL and had similar issues. Frame being flimsy is a compromise to support more filament rolls that I agree with but maybe adding some ribs can help stiffen it up similar to lots of injection molded parts. Rollers were definitely slip fit for me bearings as well. Don't seem to have a bump on the rollers and have not tested enough to know if it sliding but my rollers had a very pernoused seem line. Still try them at and will report back if I figure things out. It also seem @eminence55 had similar issues with the bearing fit as well as roller length. I will say the container dimension could have some very large tolerance bands so it could be hard to deal with. For the bering things should be quite consistent so not sure why mine came over sized.

[@WillyFooLiveStudios]

Awesome!!! Going to try this.. thinking of a way to easily swap out the desiccants to dry them. For those who have the cereal box already, is there anyway to put an add on desiccant box whtere the lid opens?

[@Crazy_Dave]

This is exactly what I've been looking for but sadly I'm in the UK so the links aren't suitable. I'm still going to try and find cereal boxes here though. I'll be in touch if I successfully replicated your design. Thanks for sharing 👍

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Sound great. Let me know if you get it to work.

[@eastonsavage3625]

Printed in PLA first, it was too brittle for the thin walls. I printed a second time in PETG and it worked much better. Thanks for the design!

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Good to know! I almost always use PLA+/Pro so that is good to know that they normal PLA ended up being too brittle. Thanks for the heads up.

[@eXcelon969]

@@BuildItMakeIt using PLA right now and while flimsy it's holding well

[@eXcelon969]

PLA here, flimsy but working

[@1973farah]

Thank you! Making one now!

[@russellmccullin5797]

Just got the parts in to try this. Thanks

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Hope you enjoy it!

[@Abrahamhkress]

Like the design

[@jimbass6575]

Put the humidity sensor at the top of the container rather than the bottom, much easier to read.

[@68Cypher]

haha so was just looking at some on amazon but then I thought I just spent over 6 bills to gen an Ender 5 plus so I can DIY things and boom there was this video! TY for this will be my first official print!

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Thanks! If you have any issues let me know. I am still using the dry boxes and they are working great so I hope they work well for you.

[@swag_4_1if3]

Really nice! I think it would work better if the filament rolls off the top rather than the bottom. I plan on building an enclosure for my printer and have the filament feed from above the printer. Do you see any problems with that redesign?

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Sounds great. A number op people have it roll off the top. I have one that rolled straight up. That is what is nice about putting the port wherever. It mostly depends on your printer setup. Good luck!

[@MrChucklepuff]

Have you tried an Atomic Filament Spool? Looks to be about 72mm in width but might be a little less.

[@BuildItMakeIt]

I haven't. Seems like that would be right on the edge.

[@poppin_freshgaming4334]

Thanks for this, just made two of these today. Filament is in and will see what happens. Have had some pretty bad fine stringing lately and I partially dried one roll, but not the second. Curious to see what the meters say tomorrow after about 12 hours of each roll sitting in the boxes.

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Thanks. I hope that helps with the stringing. You may want to do some oven drying first then put them in the dry box with the desiccant. That is what I typically do if I need to get my wet filament dry and then keep it dry.

[@poppin_freshgaming4334]

@@BuildItMakeIt Even with less than 24 hours the RH in the box was down to 18 and prints today were much better! An unexpected advantage was with swapping filament between the printers. The tubing held the filament and prevented unwinding so the likelihood of creating a tangle should be far less. Might want more boxes just for that.

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Awesome! Glad it worked so well. Yeah I really like the swapping aspect. No more sudden springing unwinding that then give me tangles later during a print.

[@CandSMINING]

Interesting project. Thanks for sharing. May try this build for my Ender filment.

[@BuildItMakeIt]

If you do let me know how it turns out. Good luck!

[@osmanpasha_diy]

Do you take any measures to prevent moisture ingress from the bowden tube?

[@BuildItMakeIt]

That is a great think to notice. For PLA it doesn't seem to matter for me and my climate, but for nylon filaments I have a peice of the tubing that I sealed that I switch out.

[@voxpop9]

This might be a little bit better than Fillament Bunker V3 because of those side horns to ensure the roll doesn't slip off

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Thanks, I appreciate it. The filament bunker v3 is also a good design. They both have their pros and cons.

[@iNaneek42]

Looks awesome! I’m on a bit of a budget, is there a way to get the container without buying 6 tho? Also same with the bearing, can I buy less bearing or even can I make it without them?

[@BuildItMakeIt]

amzn.to/3DhKjxq has two containers which was the smallest quantity I could find. The bearings are the normal skateboard bearings so you can get just a few of them.

[@iNaneek42]

@@BuildItMakeIt oh sweet, thanks! Gonna build it once I get the parts in. Awesome that you still responded btw, underrated channel

[@BuildItMakeIt]

@@iNaneek42 thanks!

[@FredrickLackey]

Any tips for printing the roller using Bambu Slicer? Concentric supports are not available.

[@BuildItMakeIt]

I tried it on type: normal(auto) and then style: snug and it did the concentric support. Weird they name them so strange.

[@EdwardLuiFilms]

Note the Amazon link to the cereal boxes don't have the 3 grooves that you've mentioned and shown neither.

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Hmmm.. that is weird. It needs the boxes with the grooves. Ill check the link.

[@daipayanchakraborty2738]

Thank you for the free stl files.

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Glad you like them.

[@joshrp5]

I love this design, bought a total of 18! boxes to work on. Hopefully it is all good! Thank you for the video. A couple of questions: whats the "more flow" stl Also, I was wondering if you have seen someone design a box holder to have this either sit on or slide on the top of a ender 3 s1 pro. Thinking of a way to swap filaments quickly and thought maybe i could simple use the arm the ender 3 comes with and remove the roll part and add either a mount slide that holds the filament from the top, or simply a shelf with a couple of inches of walls to have the filament box sit in.

[@BuildItMakeIt]

The more flow stl uses less filament and has better air flow around the temp/humidity sensor. I don’t think it is necessary but someone requested I make that version. I haven’t seen a box holder but that is a really cool idea.

[@joshrp5]

Just got all the parts in and made a couple of boxes. I can’t seem to get the humidity below 35% on any box so far (3). I bought the exact box. Have you had any issues? Or is there a fix?

[@BuildItMakeIt]

@@joshrp5 So it may take a bit for the humidity to lower because the filament needs to dry out and that may take a bit. If you want to speed it along you can warm up the filament in an oven, but be careful you don't melt it. I did that to one spool and then I just left the other ones. The humidity came down over the next two weeks and has stayed around 20%. If you feel like it isn't moving much after a week. You can switch out the desiccant and dry out what you pulled out if you have the rechargeable kind. Another option is to put a ton of desiccant in a container with a roll (not to use but to dry out). After the humidity in the filament has dropped then you can switch it into the normal filament dry box and after a few days it should settle down to more like 20%.

[@DollsandEverythingElse]

These cereal containers are no longer sold on Amazon and I’ve searched and searched and cannot find these cereal containers based on the dimensions of these discontinued ones and none have the width/depth so I’m wondering if I could use a Sterilite 20 Qt. Clear Gasket Storage Box Latch and store the rolls here and follow your same method? Also, can I attach this to my AMS Lite and are you drying your filament in toaster/convection oven at 125F/45 minutes before you stored them in the boxes? Thank you.

[@Ahzahail]

I found 2 spools one from IC3D and Jessie's Premium (both from printed solids) that do not fit inside of this. The spools are about 20.5 cm (~8 inches) in diameter. The width of these spool seems to be the biggest problem, they are 7 cm (~ 2.75 inches). All the rest of the spools are from Bambu labs and they print and store in there perfectly. Thank you for the tutorial and the files. Do you have one for larger spools?

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Thanks that is good to know those ones don't fit, but also a bummer. Sorry I don't have one for larger spools. I recommend printing a free standing base and putting it in a larger container for larger spools.

[@Pickle312]

When I did the concentric supports for the rollers, the area that required supports was very stringy, What do you set your support settings to other than concentric?

[@BuildItMakeIt]

I changed the density till I got two concentric rings on the inside. Maybe yours is only putting one ring.

[@schmeglyomigy6174]

What volume of desiccant do you think the desiccant boxes each hold? I’m seeing how much desiccant to buy. Thanks

[@BuildItMakeIt]

It isn't much, you probably need less than 1/4 a pound to do six of them.

[@austinvickymoore3656]

I like it.. gonna have to try it

[@caseyhoyt7353]

Are the rollers placed close enough to accommodate mini rolls of filament? I'm not having much luck finding anything that can work with those adorable mini rolls! Thanks in advance!

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Sorry I saw your comment before and looked up some additional mini roll sizes to what I have then forgot to reply. No the rolles won't work for all mini rolls. You can print some sides for the mini rolls that allow them to be used like full size rolls, but that does use extra filament.

[@caseyhoyt7353]

@@BuildItMakeIt Can you provide a link to some of the slides you're referring to? Thank you so much for your reply!

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Sure. Here is an option. www.printables.com/model/287592-250g-spool-extender-for-bambu-lab-x1-ams Look for people doing spool extenders for the bambu labs AMS. There are a couple of different design options for that particular issue.

[@caseyhoyt7353]

@@BuildItMakeIt Thanks!!!

[@eminence55]

The current batch of those containers, i found squished the rollers too much. I had to scale 2-3mm off of roller tube(z) , and took 0.1mm out of x+y diminesions to tighten grip on bearing. Bearings also go into tube too far imho.

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Great tip and thanks for sharing. I will have to check out a new batch and see if they are constantly too small. I also heard from two other people with prusa mk3 printers that the x+y dimensions were a bit too loose. What printer do you have? The bearings going in too far I think is a personal preference that I went back and forth with. At first I made them flush, but some people had issues with the supports not coming off clean so then they stuck out. I inset them a bit and they shouldn't rub even though they are more pushed in, but it doesn't look at nice I think.

[@eminence55]

@@BuildItMakeIt i have a fully "teaching tech" calibrated Tronxy x5sa pro. I used a trimmed piece of filament to act as a stopper for the bearing. I could probably take 0.05-0.1mm more out if all dimensionss, but with filament spacer... I think its fine. Latest print doesn't rub against the roller.

[@maynardmann1518]

I'm having the same any way you could share your adapted stl? Did you manage to get these boxes to work for you? My front roller won't move an inch in 5 of the 6 boxes I got and the 6th is still way too tight to be viable.

[@bluedev05]

What material do you recommend printing this with? PLA ok or is PTEG needed?

[@BuildItMakeIt]

I did PLA, but I think most anything would be good. ABS may shrink a bit so it may need to scale up to fit together with something that shrinks a lot.

[@TheMrDrMs]

As I understand it you actually want ZZ (608zz vs the 608rs) bearings, as the ZZ rolls smoother/faster when compared to the rs, so no clean/re-lube needed. I've been looking for a system for my ERCF v2 (8 cart) plus storage - I think I'm going to go with this with some mods. Thank you! EDIT: Darn, FusionFilament (ABS) rolls seem to be about 73mm, but this will work well for just about every other filament I have - of course I realized after ordering what I need for 18 boxes.

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Oh no. That is such a bummer of the filament roll size. It is crazy how much variation there its in the roll size. Yeah the ZZ bearings are totally the way to go. I had a bunch of the rubber sealed ones and wanted to use them since I already had them. Thanks!

[@TheMrDrMs]

@@BuildItMakeIt ah that makes sense! Yeah, oh well on the Fusion stuff. I like their ABS but I'm moving towards ASA for the ABS needs so it's not like these try boxes will be a waste. Mostly will be using PLA with my ERCF anyways. Already printing the holders, thanks!

[@TimDavis77]

Is there something you could put on the end of the PTFE tube when not printing to keep moisture/air from entering the dry box that way?

[@cck6740]

What about using something like some blue tac? It would be easily removeable and reusable.

[@fabmanly1070]

Print off a little cap

[@classicalbets5184]

So how's this relating to the recommendation to replace PTFE tubing with Capricorn one? If I replaced the tube on my Ender 3 Pro, woudn't making the filament go though regular PTFE tube undo the improvements?

[@BuildItMakeIt]

That is a good question. The PTFE tube is before the motor that is pushing the filament both on Bowden setups and direct drive. The tube is mostly there to help the filament not pick up moisture and allow it to not get tangled up on the way to the 3D printer. This won't change any tubing replacement benefits on Bowden setups. Hope that helps.

[@classicalbets5184]

@@BuildItMakeIt Thanks!

[@Simbuilds-ud2kn]

Printed Base, Desiccant Lid, 2 rollers, no link or stl?

[@BuildItMakeIt]

The files can be downloaded from my website. There is the link in the description.

[@FreshPrints]

I would love to find the same cereal boxes you are using. The link says they are not available.

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Looks like they are back in stock. Thanks for pointing that out: amzn.to/49L4x1d

[@ClaytonONeill]

Could you share the CAD files? I like this design a lot, but would like to adapt it a bit for a different humidity sensor.

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Sorry, not right now. I am dealing with the theft of a number of my designs right now, so I am trying to figure out a way I can better protect them.

[@JMac-ub2zq]

Did you notice any extra drag being applied to the filament that may cause under extrusion? Did you calibrate e-steps with the dry boxes attached?

[@BuildItMakeIt]

I have noticed some drag but it seems to mostly be with the tube, not a ton with the rollers. I did check my e-steps and it didn't need to be changed. So far I haven't noticed any issues.

[@robdesimone4530]

I seem to be dragging a bit as well.. Is there anyway to make the tube a bit easier for the filament to pass through?

[@robertalexander7453]

Is the base supposed to be kinda flimsy or thin? I tried to print one and it came out alright but it feels really thin

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Yep it is pretty thin. I designed it to use the sides of the cereal box for strength to allow the widest spools possible.

[@hadeszkaa]

Hi, nice design! Any chance the container would fit 76mm spools? (like from FilamentPM)

[@BuildItMakeIt]

I think the 76mm are going to be too wide. Sorry.

[@john2820]

Awesome. Printing it now. Thanks!🎉

[@BuildItMakeIt]

That is great! Let me know how it turns out.

[@darshangovender129]

This design seems very similar to the one shown by marsgizmo, is there any significant difference aside from the Bowden coupler placement?

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Wow I didn’t see his design before. The two are super similar. The differences seem pretty small, but my guess is mine is about 2mm wider, and can hold a little more desiccant, while his looks a bit more sturdy. Mine pushes up against the sides of the cereal box for strength so I think it uses less filament. Honestly you could just print one of each and see which one you like more.

[@darshangovender129]

@@BuildItMakeIt Thanks for the response and clarification, will definitely try out this design

[@brucebelvin2058]

@@BuildItMakeIt Is saving a little filament a priority for you? No wonder your roller frame is so ridiculously flimsy. If you were so thrifty you wouldn't have given links to Amazon listings showing a set of SIX cereal containers and SIX temp/humdity monitors. These can be purchased singly elsewhere. Also, I don't advise using 2mm ID 4mm OD tubing for the box. 3mm ID 4mm OD will give less friction.

[@BuildItMakeIt]

@@brucebelvin2058 Thanks for your comments. I can see where the design being a bit flimsy outside the container may bother some people, but I made it that thin to accommodate wider rolls. It doesn’t need to be strong on the sides because the cereal box is plenty strong. This was a design choice for wider spools, not a way to save money.

[@danzo5521]

@@brucebelvin2058 calm down bruce, you're embarrassing yourself

[@oscargo29]

Great video. 👍

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Thanks 👍

[@pugmaster15]

Have you found any other website that sells the 4L Cereal Containers? Looks like Amazon is currently unavailable with the link you have referenced.

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Thanks for the heads up. Here is another seller that has the same oz containers: amzn.to/3BuX6fr

[@pugmaster15]

@@BuildItMakeIt Thank you! Love the build by the way. Nice work~

[@CrowClouds]

You could probably design / print your own dry box. You could use some TPU to print a replacement for the rubber seal liner they use in these cereal boxes. I just hate how those cereal boxes look personally.

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Yeah I can see how the ascetics aren’t for everyone. It would be cool to do a print so the parts were part of the case.

[@jacoponoli1072]

Where do I find the .stl for the 3d printed orange base?

[@BuildItMakeIt]

There is a link in the description that takes you to the page where you can download the files. There is a square button after the embedded video on the page.

[@jerrygorman5030]

Why does the .stl file (roller tray) import at 186"?

[@maynardmann1518]

this did not work for me the cereal box up at the front squeezed the print way too tightly preventing the front roller from moving at all ordered the exact ones linked in the description very unfortunate I'm 30$ in the hole, does anyone here know any more boxes that may work better with this print?

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Sorry that it is squishing it too much, I haven’t heard of that happening before. You can try printing the roller say 2mm less in the z direction to make it shorter. That should not mess with the bearing pocket and give you a little bit more play.

[@Bluntedco.]

what do you use on the ptfe end that has a slight gap when done printing? do you wind back the filament and plug the push connector? i just ordered my parts from your description so lets see how my build goes lol. i noticed my pla silk making that queef noise so i figured i needed a diy dry box to save money and i did think about a food dehydrator but those things are 400w and on for 4 or 5 hrs makes no sense. This diy dry box should substitute that right or must i always use a over or dehydrator to dry the filament first and then put it in the diy dry box? i am new to 3d printing in case my question sounds dumb.

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Personally I just leave the little gap out. I generally print with a skirt or sone brim so I figure that part gets used in non critical parts. Sometimes I’ll just cut off the couple of inches. That way I don’t have to open the container and the filament in the tube stops the air flow mostly. I still set my filament before putting it in the drybox if it has set out a while but I use my toaster oven or large oven and done typically use a dehydrator even though I have two of them from doing food.

[@Bluntedco.]

@@BuildItMakeIt nice! then i should be good leaving that gap as well since i also add a brim. The temp you used in the end of the video 125F for 45mins should be good for all materials like pla and silks before placing into the dry boxes? i tried drying that silk last night at 350f for 5 mins and it warped the sides of the roll hahahah maybe i should have watched your video before trying that out.

[@BuildItMakeIt]

@@Bluntedco. Don't worry. I accidentally melted a roll trying to dry it out as well. 😅I have had no issues down at the 125F range. 3dsolved.com/3d-filament-glass-transition-temperatures/ Keep the temp a little bit below the glass transition temperature of the material and you should be good.

[@Joatmod132]

How do you remove the bearing seals for cleaning? Is it possible to do this without damaging the seals?

[@BuildItMakeIt]

This can be tricky to do. I find that the best is to use a thin pin, like a sewing one and to carefully work it under the seal and run it around to dislodge it. If I am careful I can get about 95% success with this method. A lot depends on the quality of the bearings. Nice ones like proper skateboard bearings pretty much always come out nice, and go back on nice.

[@Joatmod132]

@@BuildItMakeIt Perfect! Thanks very much for the immediate reply!

[@javiervarelafeteira8764]

Is it normal that mine is like pretty thin?? It looks kinda fragile

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Yeah it is pretty thin on the sides so it can accommodate wider filament rolls as it is designed to fit inside the cereal container.

[@javiercubero4359]

I'm having problems to find the products in spain

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Sorry. For the cereal containers the ones with the three ridges on them seem to be the ones that work. I think it is hard to find the same stuff everywhere but I know that they can be found in Germany. Maybe someone that has found them from amazon Spain can comment where they got them.

[@igazsag4839]

Hi what is the name of the 3d printer and where can I buy it the cheapest? Thank you Do I also need to buy a software?

[@BuildItMakeIt]

My 3D printer is one I made (MP3DP). I didn’t buy any software, just free slicers.

[@igazsag4839]

@@BuildItMakeIt well I want to buy muself one and if I can video call you one day before I buy it that would help me a lot.

[@jafears5284]

So I have run into the issue where the cereal box from your link is smaller than base printed. It doesn't fit at the bottom. Anyone run into this issue?

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Yeah, it seems like every now and then amazon is changing where link goes. The boxes should have three small grooves on the side, not one big one. PRAKI and Skroam 4L cereal containers have worked for people.

[@gerrbearmac]

The exact cereal container is unavailable right now - If I find a different one that is close to those measurements, do you think that it will work? TIA

[@BuildItMakeIt]

That’s weird I just checked and it shows they are available. I wonder if it isn’t available in your area. Sorry.

[@gerrbearmac]

@@BuildItMakeIt ohhh yes that’s probably it. I’m in Canada

[@perrinms]

@@gerrbearmac Just got mine from Amazon in Canada. Putting the 1st one together right now :-)

[@HandyL]

Nice design! What are doing your CAD in, Solidworks? That is my preferred, I can model anything in it. Have been messing around with Cinema 4D since we use that at work and it is a pretty good modeler. I did a few cars, planes, a Dalek, haha. I like the freeform aspect of it compared to sketch driven Solidworks, definitely a different mindset when using rendering CAD software compared to engineering CAD.

[@BuildItMakeIt]

I use solidworks at work but at home I am using fusion 360. I wish there was a cheaper way to get solidworks for a side hobby, but fusion is working pretty well for me. I haven't ever used Cinema 4D, mostly a blender user, but haven't even done that much with it for a while now. I totally agree the freeform aspect of it is a bit harder for me to work with after doing sketch driven design. I do like the modeling stuff, that seems to make more sense to my brain since it is sort of like messing around with clay.

[@HandyL]

@@BuildItMakeIt There are cheaper ways ;)

[@BuildItMakeIt]

@@HandyL yeah 😎 ….. but I’m trying to be better about that kind of thing. Undergrad me would have been all over getting me some solidworks.

[@adamaglionby7438]

@@BuildItMakeIt there is now the 3DExperience hobbyist SOLIDWORKS license, 10 bucks a month

[@BuildItMakeIt]

@@adamaglionby7438 oh that is cool to know. I’ll have to check that out. I’ve been using fusion 360 more and more, but I do love Solidworks. Thanks for the info.

[@RJ-ss8ht]

Sudden rise in cereal container sells 😂

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Ha ha!! They are wondering why the maker community care so much about keeping their cereal fresh.

[@williamkemp6789]

is there any chance you would be willing to upload a STEP file for this. I have a different brand of container i want to put this in as well as up the thickness of the walls a bit. if you could save me the redesign time that would be amazing.

[@BuildItMakeIt]

I uploaded the files to my website at the very end of the article. I didn't put them at the top cause I don't want people getting confused when they just want to print the stl files. Hope that helps! www.builditmakeit.com/projects/3d-filament-drybox

[@8Five7One2]

Why not print a PTFE TUBE ADAPTER that pivots up/down/sideways such that when the extruder is higher than the ptfe adpater, the adapter pivots up and when its lower the adapter pivots down. This prevents the filament from making a tight bend. What do you think?

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Oh that’s a really interesting idea. That could definitely help someone who was really tight with space.

[@8Five7One2]

@@BuildItMakeIt So can you make one like it? :D

[@BuildItMakeIt]

@8five7one HeadSpace not right now I can’t for a couple of weeks cause I don’t have access to a printer to test it. Sorry :(

[@Ender_Wiggin]

I would like to make a remix of your design but you don't have it published on 3d printing databases that I can find. Would it be alright if I remix it and upload to printables with a link to your website?

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Sure.

[@10DrKenHarper-bo3rf]

Thanks a lot..

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Most welcome!

[@miroslavw]

Thanks!

[@miroslavw]

Great build. I did all six! I decided to order some Alumina desiccant for my wetter spools (TPU, Nylon, PC) because the silica couldn't get humidity in those any lower than 40%. We'll see how that works. I also drilled the PTFE tube adapter to the lid as one other QIDI Q1 Pro user has done and it's working great.

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Thanks so much for the super thanks! You rock!!! So glad it worked out for you and sounds like with the alumina you have a great setup!

[@AK.Navy.Veteran]

Why not just use sealed bearings?

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Good sealed bearings would certainly work better. I was trying to save some money using cheap bearings. So far I haven't had any issues, but yes quality sealed bearings that spin freely would be better. The cheap ones I had sealed didn't spin freely and I want them to spin with very low load. Thanks!

[@robertfrayer6711]

Problem I run into is when my direct drive pulls from it the ptfe melts

[@BuildItMakeIt]

That is weird. What part of the PTFE is melting? (the entrance area in the box, or another part?) What is the interior diameter of your PTFE tube?

[@jasonbobbitt6132]

Ordered the boxes in the link above and I am guessing the design of the cereal containers has changed. They no longer work on this project. Do not order what was linked. You need something that doesn't taper at the bottom so badly. But the dimensions are around: Package Dimensions ‎14.8 x 9.65 x 7.28 inches. They are not standard or easy to find I am finding out. If I find something that works I'll update it here. I went balls deep and was just waiting on the containers so I have 6 rigs ready to go as soon as I find a container that works.

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Thanks for the info. Do you know what brand you purchased? Generally the 4L /135.2 or 135.3oz seem to work for people. I'll will look into the links to see what is going on. Also that size seems giant. My containers are roughly 9.5x9x4 inches.

[@jasonbobbitt6132]

The new container link works. I received my new set of 6 and they fit perfectly. Thank you again!@@BuildItMakeIt

[@webx135]

Anyone else do this but end up with some different container that is slightly skinnier, doesn't fit the model, and doesn't let the filament turn? I used the link, so I'm not sure what's up. But it doesn't have the 3 ridges on the handle. It has 1 big ridge that is deeper, so it throws everything off.

[@tgiese72]

I see the link on KZbin directs to a different product than his website. Which link did you follow?

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Yeah for some reason the link on KZbin sometimes messes up and links to the wrong containers. The one on my website seems to go to the container with the skinny ridges but when it comes from KZbin sometimes it redirects wrong. I am trying yo figure this out. Sorry.

[@tgiese72]

Interesting - I was going to assume it was the other way around. I was planning on ordering from the KZbin link, because the associated product images (Wildone store 29.99) had several grooves in the handle. The website directed me to a large single groove (seseno store - 25.98)

[@MultiHippie13]

The cereal box link on your website takes you to a different cereal container than the one in this video. The ones from your website do not work with your design. That link may need to be updated.

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Thanks so much. I am trying to get on top of the link situation. It seems Amazon in just the last week has started linking to some different cereal boxes depending on your region you live in. The size is the 135.3 or 135.2 oz containers that have a gasket at the top and three groves on the size. Wildone is one brand that I know works and also Blingco. Seseno does not work. Sorry so much, I really am not sure what is going on with the links, I have made new ones, but Amazon seem to still be changing stuff around.

[@belacsnov]

They sent me seseno 🫤

[@therabiddove]

the containers aren't available anymore!

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Thanks for letting me know. I updated the link to the same ones from another seller.

[@adams1625]

Anyone else's roller assembly very flimsy? Still works fine for me though

[@BuildItMakeIt]

It is designed to only work in the filament box and not stand alone so yeah it is flimsy to fit as wire a roll of filament at possible. Thanks for trying it out!

[@adams1625]

@@BuildItMakeIt Its fine! Thanks again for the stls, I have like 10 of these now hahaha

[@CarmeloEstablier]

Did you actually design this? It looks a lot like Marsgizmo one…

[@BuildItMakeIt]

I did design this. Since making it I have seen Marsgizmo’s. His is more sturdy than mine (can stand alone) while mine is custom to the containers and takes wider spools. There are also some other designs people have made on Thingiverse.

[@robertalexander7453]

Does anyone have the stl file?

[@BuildItMakeIt]

You can download them from the link in the description from my website.

[@stonyfever]

Just to let you know the cereal boxes linked in your article are wrong, filament spool rolls won’t fit in those ones.

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Thanks! I have had the hardest time getting amazon to stop switching the boxes that are pointed to. The boxes have just three small indents on the sides. I will try and fix the link again, but it seems to keep on breaking.

[@StephenStrangeX]

For the same price it would cost to buy all this stuff you could just buy a dehydrator for the same price.

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Yeah, this doesn't replace a dehydrator you still need to get it dry. For a lot of people dry boxes may be overkill, or they can also just redry before uses.

[@KronicDaydreamZ]

Not even close

[@StephenStrangeX]

@@KronicDaydreamZ food dehydrator, not filament.

[@KronicDaydreamZ]

@StephenStrangeX it's to keep filament dry not for drying it

[@StephenStrangeX]

@@KronicDaydreamZ for the same price and way less hassle you can buy a dehydrator, pop your filament in it for an hour or two and you will have dry filament. You must be new here.

[@bryancampbell4604]

For almost $80 to build myself one, I could buy two $40 ones that can fit two rolls in one....

[@MrChucklepuff]

link?

[@BuildItMakeIt]

That seems pretty expensive. I built 6 for under 60. What is costing so much.

[@bryancampbell4604]

@@BuildItMakeIt Prices must have been down when you did it.

[@spamspasm8183]

Wow those ceral containers are expensive. 2/3 the price of a heated creality/sunlu dry box. 😢

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Yeah if you just need one then I think the headed boxes that you can buy are a better option. I have one of those from FixDry that does two of them. amzn.to/3MQ15IQ If you do nylon then I think the heated chambers are really nice. I still use the cereal dry boxes for PLA when I want to keep filament dry, not necessarily dry it out.

[@frankhovis]

So this "How to Make a Simple and Quick 3D Printer Filament Dry Box" is actually "put them in the oven".

[@BuildItMakeIt]

Good point this is a dry box not a drying box.