How to Make a Skirt with a Button Closure (+ ideas for working with double-cloth & hella thicc wool)

Spring is holding out on me, so I figured I had time for one last addition to my winter wardrobe.
TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Intro
00:56 The Design
02:00 The Pattern
04:19 The Seams
6:14 The Closure
7:34 The Waistband
8:48 The Hem
10:08 The Pocket
11:24 The Buttons
13:19 Presenting...
13:53 Review
THE INSPIRATION SKIRT
www.thehouseoffoxy.com/skirts
NEW TOOLS (not affiliate)
Button spacer: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
Buttonhole opener: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
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MUSIC BY epidemicsound.com and KZbin Audio Library
1. Zambezi - Alec Slayne
2. Mind at Drift - Alec Slayne
3. Indulgence - Alec Slayne
4. My Kind of Friend - The Flax
5. With a Light Heart - Ofelia Moore
6. Peter Tulligan - Ofelia Moore
7. The Way You Danced With Him - The Flax

[@dunkel429]

Love the clear directions and diagrams on this one. Makes it so much easier on us beginner sewers to follow along.

[@tsunade5704]

Hi, you did a really goid job with the Doubleface fabric. As you said you never really worked with this kind of fabric i thought it might get though for you but you figured it out really well. I work with such fabric as a dressmaker and i was impressed by your work. A little tip for another time. Make a stitchingline two times your seamallowance from the edge away. Then pull the two fabrics lightli apart from each other and cut the strings dont just pull them apart. Do this till you reach the stich. Like that the fabric does not stretch as much as it did on one side. Then proceed as you did. The result will be just slightly better. As i said earlier. You did absolutly fantastic and i do like how you explain your work. Keep it up like that it is amazing.

[@mokanger97]

I made a pinafore at the end of last year out of a really heavy wool cashmere. I dealt with the bulk by binding all the edges with bias tape before sewing them into seams. As long as your bias tape is narrower than your intended seam allowance, it works perfectly. I did have to cut away all but the topmost layer of bias in the back where the bodice and skirt met the back seam, it was way too bulky and messing with the fit. The skirt was a circle skirt and I hemmed it with a facing made out of the same cotton that lined the bodice. I just traced the bottom edge of the skirt pattern and measured it up a few inches. I then sewed the hem with a normal 1/2 inch seam allowance (to keep as much length as possible), turned up the facing and herringbone stitching it in place, though felling would work perfectly well too

[@Betsyschugar]

Hey fellow leftie!! I always get so excited when I find out someone is left handed, it’s like we’re all part of our little club!

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

[@renateparker1201]

Eep, leftys. My kin 😄

[@pippaseaspirit4415]

A double row of backstitches would be an alternative and attractive option for sewing on the patch pocket. Maybe next time, if there is a next time? The finished skirt is gorgeous! I love the way it swirls.

[@Marialla.]

The skirt is gorgeous! I love the color, and the drape. It looks very graceful as you twirl. And it looks well-made enough, and timeless enough in its design to last practically a lifetime, so it would be something anyone would be proud to own.

[@phyrewillow6463]

You helped your chicken get past shock! So cute

[@ColorwaveCraftsCo]

I like the tip about using fray check on the button threads, definitely going to use that one!

[@lorisewsstuff1607]

I know the double-cloth is a pain to work with but I think it worked really well with this skirt. Sometimes flared skirts sorta go limp. I think the thick fabric is making the skirt stand out more. I love how it looks.

[@GothyPingu]

I was just thinking of sewing a wool skirt (my first clothing piece once my corset is done, yes I'm new to sewing and starting with a corset I like pain it seems) and this was the motivation I needed.

[@sophieross399]

I also started with a corset a few years ago! I actually don't regret it at all, it took me ages and ended up pretty messy but it was what I was feeling passionate about at the time :) I learned way more from that than I would have with a "beginner" project. I hope it's going well for you!!

[@GothyPingu]

@@sophieross399 it's going really well I think, self drafted and making slight tweaks here and there for get the fit right with mockups. going to make the full piece this week so I can make skirts for my corseted waistline

[@marthabenner6528]

After not sewing for 10 years, I decided to reteach myself. And started with a stay. Now, just shy of two years, I have made one that actually fits. (The first one's had three odd problems that took a bit of research to understand.) And with very minor alterations I can also use the same pattern for every bodice, dress, or cote in my entire capsule wardrobe.

[@sks17873]

That sounds insane, but at least you’ll be learning valuable skills like drafting, fitting, sewing, and seam ripping. Good luck!

[@Mintiture]

as a beginner sewist i love your diagrams. thank you for perfectly illustrating exactly how to do a button placket! I've watched a few other videos but was still kind of unsure, but your diagram made it click!

[@Veronensis]

I've never worked with double cloth, interesting to see. However, If I might give you a tip: For thicker fabrics, I always cut pieces like facing and plackets from a thinner fabric in the same color. I also use hem tape or bias tape for the hem. This really cuts down on the bulk.

[@hafsaummmusa9923]

I LOVE THE BUTTON SPACER!

[@fabricdragon]

i have no idea how it works otherwise, but in theatre work if a pocket was pulling something off we would run a grosgrain ribbon down the inside of the skirt/dress and then attack it to a matching pocket (or patch of the same size, ) in the inside of the skirt. if the pocket was smaller we would just attach the ribbon to the inside of teh skirt where the pocket bottom was (and sometimes to the top just hidden under the edge of teh pocket. like i said, this was a theater hack, so i am not sure how it would work in every day sewing

[@felicitykenter7748]

Something that might help you with not ripping the thread while opening up the button holes is place a pin horizontally at the top of the bottom hole, just before you reach the thread and use a seam ripper. The seam ripper will stop at the pin! I saw it on another KZbin video. I hope that makes sense.

[@AdirondackRuby]

Might not have worked for this fabric, because of the stretch, but it's still an absolutely ingenious solution. I have a few double layered fabrics, most of which have different prints on either side, and I've been working now and them to figure out how I could go about making them into a garment that would be completely, but imperceptibly, reverasable. I think your splitting trick might just be the breakthrough I needed!

[@michellebyrom6551]

Splitting, trimming and turning all edges like the pocket in the video, small whipped stitch to join pieces precisely with a decorative topstitch for definition and strength. The latter would be quick enough with 2 goes of running stitch and one contrast whip on each side. Unless you're feeling adventurous for something fancier. As I write, I'm seeing seams overlaid. Two pieces to join. Seam layers separated, reduce one layer by half and reduce half on the opposite layer of the corresponding seamline. It would need clean cutting lines and basting for neatness. A lot of sewing to whip each seam edge into place, then topstitching as a design feature for strength. Or faggotting, my machine does that too. It means all seams would be smooth for having only 2 layers. The work though, this is why bias binding was invented. Lol

[@lynn858]

Hand sewing while cuddling a chicken… even Bernadette doesn’t go to these lengths while exploring historical experiences. ;) Clearly a very practical use of time. You need your chickens calm.

[@oluwatoyinlasisi6385]

the skirt is sooo pretty i will wear definitely if i had it.Thank you so much for your detailed instructions and sharing all the lessons you learnt alongside

[@lisettegarcia]

great seam experiment. so important to explore what doesn't work in order to better understand why. ty!

[@zanet391]

How did I not notice you're left-handed?? I'm a leftie too and almost always notice if someone is left-handed in real life (ok, that may actually be my answer...)

[@tinayang3845]

Me too 😊

[@vb7794]

my brain : I need the same in a secret pants version XD

[@callunas]

I love these practical but beautiful projects! The diagrams make them so much easier to follow.

[@Padraigp]

Ah yes this looks amazing! The only thing i would say is you need to take account of your bustle as it were. And add a bit for the bustle at the back so it hangs straight. Gorgeous colour!

[@jennyukoh7462]

What are you talking about girl?!!!🤨 The skirt looks beautiful and graceful on you. I wish mine turned out that way. Still on my half circle skirt project. Newbie!😁

[@kimreni]

What a great alternative to a zipper! I'm gonna give it a try for sure!

[@alfa5243]

You are just adorable. Nice direct instruction

[@jackiejames4551]

The skirt is lovely, and I'm sure you are gonna love it come next winter. Glad all the chickens were ok, so sorry they had to go through such a traumatic experience.

[@danhurl1349]

Ok that skirt is stunning

[@ebunni5862]

What an interesting fabric! You skirt turned out lovely

[@bluestar.8938]

Thank you : )

[@robintheparttimesewer6798]

The skirt is lovely! I hear you on being done with winter our weather has been up and down the last few weeks. Spring then back to snow we ever had freezing rain and hail this week!

[@MariahPattie]

Same!

[@lindak8664]

I’m really pleasantly surprised how nicely that turned out, I thought that wool would be too thick to hang nice. As you say, the placket is a bit problematic, but apart from that, its really lovely. Beautiful colour too. Very nice.

[@aristaniforth4267]

I really appreciate how you talk through your process in detail, it helps me learn so much! Thank you 🙏

[@rtboothby3053]

Love the skirt. Everything about it. By the way, if you don’t like the stiffness/roughness of the Fray Check once it dries, the same company puts out a product called Fray Block which does the same thing but it dries soft.

[@antonettebroomfield8550]

I love the skirt and the way you made it! Beautiful!

[@SusieQ3]

You know, I try to watch your videos while working out, but your videos are just so engaging that I end up doing all watching and no working ☺️ Thank you for sharing all your different projects with us 💜

[@TheRachelCross]

Just watching how you adjusted the pattern as you cut it out has shown me a better way to do something I'm constantly having to roll with when I'm making up my own patterns and modifying them. Thank you!

[@alenacervenka214]

Super belle jupe ! Projet très réussi. Ça donne envie de s'y mettre. Merci pour ce partage.

[@penneyburgess5431]

It’s lovely and looks lovely on you.

[@coreygilles847]

You always make the cutest clothes! And I love your chickens :)

[@elizabethc1463]

I approve of the Star Wars themed name!!

[@ellahopkinson]

I love your sewing videos! They make sense to me and I adore the chicken content, thank you for making such informative and relaxing content- and the skirt looks beautiful on you :)

[@jori7398]

I don’t mind a prominent seam if the fabric is beautiful and the proportion of seam with adds to the design. ❤️

[@raraavis7782]

Very pretty! It has an amazing amount of 'swish' for such a heavy fabric. And yes, the amount of fullness is 'just right', somehow. Love the creative seam finishes as well. I'm a sucker for neat insides on handcrafted garments.

[@user-el8vg6db6f]

oh my god it looks amaaaazinnng good job

[@socpancake]

your sew-along videos are all so detailed, thorough, and helpful -- especially with all the pro tips and error analysis backtracking 😅 thank you so much, love your channel! (also love how well you take care of your chickens 🥰)

[@michellecornum5856]

I love this!

[@aliloucreations1817]

Oh it looks gorgeous on you , well done on learning the different ways to sew that sort of fabric, it is a pain ❤️❤️❤️

[@trudicole3520]

You have a lovely sewing companion

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

I am going to have to try that fray-check trick next time I can't find someone else to sew on my buttons. Only once ever have I managed to put on a button that didn't fall off again a week later. Maybe I'll try a 1/2 or 3/4 circle skirt with some of this wool plaid I've got... And thanks for explaining the button placket, that's the first time I've seen someone make one where it actually makes sense to me to the point where I think I could do that!

[@rocketmaaaaan]

how cosmic, I was just started drafting a really similar skirt, although mine will have pleats. Definitely going to use your pattern for the placket!

[@courtneywalsh9780]

Okay but you and this skirt pattern have so perfectly come into my life cause I wanna make a pinafore with this EXACT skirt type with the side buttons!!!

[@CJGem1994]

Me too! I'm back rewatching this because I wanna make mine lined and I'm trying to figure out how that'll work

[@meros3881]

oooh i'm so happy you made a video about this skirt, i had been drooling on the vintage reproduction shop's version for a while yet wasn't convinced enough by a few things to buy it, but now it's on my project list thanks to you! it really looks great, the weight of the fabric makes it stand fantastically, it's lovely!

[@BCSchmerker]

+mariahpattie *Thanks for the demo of 2/3-circle skirt construction from a two-ply wool.* Still haven't found a source for NyCo as of 2 April 2022, but I now know what precautions to take with both wool and cemented latex consistent with a recent +morgandonner project. Incidentally, the +FluffyKawaiiJo Coordinate Mash-up Challenge for April 2022 has the themes Angels (which gave me an idea for lamé as treatment for waistcoat, _sporran_ and watch cap) and Pyjamas (which complicates the applicable project, as I don't have enough polyester netting to kilt).

[@marthabenner6528]

I have been trying to figure out button plackets for years. I knew it must be simple, but I just couldn't figure it out, and believe it or not I couldn't find any tutorials for said plackets in English on KZbin. So thank you. Also, have you seen those bound hems? If your fabric is too thick to fold the edges you just throw a binding over it.

[@annelieserose7928]

Amidala is a 🤌 name. I was recently thinking I need to name some pets Tattooine and Naboo.

[@c.powell8472]

awwww, scared chicken. She was cute, I'm glad she felt better the next day. lol Also, thanks for showing the seam work. this fabric looked really strange to me... probably because i dont use wool that thick since im in a hot climate but it looks crazy good!

[@kelawoops]

For the hem I think another option would have been to finish it by binding it with bias tape or something like that. It wouldn't be as bulky as folding that thick fabric on itself and it could look nice

[@lydzphens]

❤❤❤

[@Asummersdaydreamer14]

Thank you for the chicken explain; I would be spooked by a hawk too.

[@kairon156]

Very lovely skirt. I'm just wondering what you do with excess material.

[@kennethbobu3989]

Mariah, did you use a felled stitch for the pocket and the side closure for its æsthetic appeal, or why was it that you chose to do so much hand stitching on this garment? I love the look overall, and truly felt for you when you did the front and side seam and realized it wasn't turning out as flat as you wanted, but I've reached a stage of avoiding hand-stitching like the plague.

[@samanthakessel7285]

Hi Mariah! I am making a tan colored denim skirt! It will close with a button at the waist and hooks and eyes down the placket area. How are you today?

[@katerin_factory]

The seam allowance needs to be cut smaller in order to avoid thicknesses.

[@firecracker3911]

👍

[@Stielstra123]

When will the video for the striped dress at the end of this video be out? I’ve found the perfect fabric for it!

[@xxx-vc2xo]

I want to make this skirt but with the full circle skirt pattern , can i just copy the pattern you showed or do i need to make further adjudtments with the placket Edit: and do i need more panels or are two enough when using the full cirlce skirt pattern (btw this is my first clothing sewing project)

[@makeda6530]

Such a lovely skirt, those buttons on the side are so cute (୨୧ ❛ᴗ❛)✧ I feel the same way about the winter! I was listening to Summertime yesterday and sketched up a summer sailor dress with a side button closure on the skirt. I hope I can actually make it before summer starts. Hehe

[@elizabethworley7073]

I'm new. How does a pattern have folds on both sides of the pattern? I am trying to imagine how it would work in my mind.

[@JoshuaTClark81]

What else about Mariah can be said, a superiously talented woman who is absolutely gorgeous as well.

[@thinkyhyd6233]

soo I absolutely love this and wanna make it really bad, nd i believe the thick wool is what gave it an awesome drape and weight, but.. welp I live in a tropical all year round hot country and having such a thick skirt where I sweat like crazy would be veryy impractical, But I want the drape that this skirt has. What cloths could I go for??

[@MariahPattie]

Maybe a sort of stiff thick linen?

[@thinkyhyd6233]

@@MariahPattie ohh sure will look into that!!

[@thinkyhyd6233]

@@MariahPattie thanks alott🥰

[@darknessfierce4209]

Any update on the skirt after a year? Good project

[@artandcrafttherapy]

😘🍄

[@SunnyMorningPancakes]

Do you think you could fit a book in one of those pockets?

[@MariahPattie]

A small one

[@SunnyMorningPancakes]

@@MariahPattie Perfect, I now have an excuse to always carry my small copy of A Room With a View, or to go and buy smaller books.

[@SunnyMorningPancakes]

I finally finished my version which has no pockets - as much as I wanted them, the next one definitely will have. And opens with buttons on both sides because apparently eventhough I watched a fantastic, detailed video multiple times my brain fell apart during the patterning and construction.

[@bbvetromile]

Oh, you could have pieced on that missing corner-piecing is permissible and you would have used much more of your fabric, with more length!

[@Diniecita]

Historically they would have just added a patched piece on the edge. Im making a dress like that and the pattern called for that. It is actually hard to even tell.

[@caragarcia2307]

It might work better with this kind of material to put right and wrong sides together and do a zigzag stitch. Then maybe cover with contacting ribbon or fabric. Then maybe do a boarder at the hem. I'm not an experienced sewer and don't like the machine but I thought it might work better. You could even do matching ribbon but you'd have to be a better matcher than me. I always get it a little off.

[@MrsBrit1]

Chicken and sewing content alert!!

[@Yachid]

FYI: y'r InstaGram link iz broken. {q.v. Instagram for updates: instagram.com/mariahpattie/​ }